Category: Watch Reviews

It’s not for nothing that the tourbillon is considered the pinnacle of watchmaking craftsmanship. Every brand has to have one to be considered true haute horlogerie. Some will even make them an integral part of their identity—think Jaeger-LeCoultre’s spectacular gyrotourbillon or Breguet’s superb dual tourbillon watches. 

There’s something viscerally fascinating about watching the stately rotation of a tourbillon. It’s almost unimaginably complex and nearly impossible to craft and hand-finish. It should come as no surprise, then, that these watches are usually accompanied by high 5-figure price tags—or even upwards of $100,000!

And yet what IS surprising is that just a handful of these beautiful tourbillons go for much less. No, you won’t be picking up a true tourbillon for $100-200. As a matter of fact, if you see something advertised as such with that cheap of a price tag, it’s almost certainly a fake tourbillon. 

So what if you’re looking for a beautiful watch featuring this stunning complication but without the financial means to get your hands on one of the 5-figure stunners out there? Look no further than this list.

History of the Tourbillon

The tourbillon is one of the oldest and most exceptional complications in watchmaking, so it should come as no surprise that it was invented by the greatest watchmaker to ever live, Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801.

Indeed, it actually predates the wristwatch by over 100 years, as it was first featured in pocket watches. As you may be aware, the tourbillon’s central purpose is to cancel out the effects of gravity on a watch’s accuracy. 

It contains the entire escapement in a cage that typically rotates once every 60 seconds, thus completely neutralizing gravity’s pull by canceling it out over the arc of its positions. You can easily imagine why this makes a lot of sense for a pocket watch, which spends most of its life nestled in the same position relative to the ground in your pocket. 

Shockingly, the tourbillon actually serves little to no purpose in a wristwatch, since it’s in constant motion and so gravity won’t have quite the same effect on it. In this context, it’s mostly just for show, a display of true craftsmanship and elegance. But after all, isn’t that the purpose of a mechanical watch today anyway?

Today, tourbillons have been carried to an extreme in terms of development and accuracy. I mentioned the superb Jaeger-LeCoultre gyrotourbillon earlier: this little contraption takes up not much more space than a normal tourbillon and yet is able to rotate in 360 degrees over all three axes in 3D space.

Jacob & Co is also notorious for its use of gyrotourbillons, and their Astronomia movement is practically one massive tourbillon itself as it rotates everything around in the case.

But what about the tourbillons we’ll be seeing on this list? As it turns out, many of the best tourbillons for the price today were crafted by Olivier Mory, an independent watchmaker who owns BCP Tourbillons and makes these movements himself in his La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop. 

He’s one of the most brilliant minds in the industry to be able to make these movements for so much cheaper than anyone else. It’s also definitely worth checking out his own watch label, Skill Watches, which he runs with his brother Thomas. The other tourbillons on the list are supplied by the Chinese brand Seagull, a bit lower quality than the BCP Tourbillons movements but quite advanced and beautiful nonetheless.

Let me wrap up with a final note about some of the tourbillons we’ll be seeing on this list, which aren’t pure tourbillons per se but rather what is known as a “karrusel.”

The karrusel is a type of tourbillon that’s simpler to make and, to put it simply, involves a few extra gears to help rotate the tourbillon cage.

A lot of brands will call these “co-axial tourbillons” to try to cover up that they’re actually karruseles. That said, these are still exceptional watches and functionally tourbillons, so they should not be disdained for not being “pure” tourbillons.

The 10 Best Cheap Tourbillon Watches

As I said before, you won’t be able to get your hands on a tourbillon for super cheap (though we do have one item on the list for sub-$1,000… stay tuned!), due to their advanced craftsmanship. That said, on this list you can find 10 truly exquisite tourbillons, all at a significantly reduced price compared to the average tourbillon. Let’s get right into it!

Frédérique Constant Manufacture Classic Tourbillon FC-980S3H6 – $15,695

Frédérique Constant is known for offering high-quality watches at prices that are significantly more affordable than those of other Swiss brands.

In this case, their Classic Tourbillon is more expensive than most of the other options on this list, but it’s absolutely worth every penny and much cheaper than it has any right to be. Unlike the other watches here, the tourbillon movement is developed in-house by FC, not purchased from another supplier. 

And for that matter, it’s absolutely gorgeous: just take a look at the blued screws and bright blue escape wheel visible through the tourbillon window at 6:00!

The rest of the watch is incredibly restrained and elegant, with beautifully shaped and finished applied indices and exquisite alpha hands—my favorite type. With a 39mm case and just 11mm thick, it’s super wearable. 

Flip it over and take a look through the exhibition caseback while you’re at it—could you ask for anything more than the perlage, Côtes de Genève, blued screws, and engraved skeletonized rotor at this price? 

Xeric Halograph Tourbillon Collector’s Edition Emerald – $2,000

Xeric is known for their characteristic display style, which features the hours and minutes printed on the dial so that the time is indicated by the halo hands that encircle it. Even more impressively, the numbers are also printed with lume, so you’ll be able to read the time just fine in the dark, too. 

The rich emerald color is absolutely stunning, especially thanks to the variety of finishes over different sections of the dial. As for the tourbillon itself, it’s left ample room to be appreciated thanks to the hemicircular time indicator, and it certainly merits such appreciation. 

Xeric doesn’t specify what movement they use, but it looks to my eyes to be a Seagull-made tourbillon, which is certainly supported by the price. At just $2,000, it’s a shockingly affordable piece for such unique, eye-catching style and class.

Peacock Climber Tourbillon Green Dial – $2,788

The Climber Tourbillon is much sportier than the other two we’ve looked at here, which allows it to play to a totally different niche in terms of collector interest. The design is clearly inspired by Hublot, with the rubber strap and “porthole”-esque screws, but it’s not an overt homage since the screws aren’t in Hublot’s characteristic H shape. 

The dial is quite eye-catching in its rich alpine green shade with a Clous de Paris guilloché-style finish. And the power reserve at 12:00 is a unique style that’s quite sporty and legible.

However, I must admit that I’m not a fan of all the extra screws that are present on the dial, some seemingly randomly dotted throughout and others supposedly holding down all the subdials. They feel distracting and take away from the elegance of the guilloché pattern.

As for the tourbillon movement, it’s the caliber SL5215D, which has automatic winding and is a karrusel-type tourbillon. The tourbillon itself looks lovely through its 6:00 aperture with some pretty decent finishing to give it a luxurious shine. It checks all the boxes for me!

BA111OD Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon – $8,670

I love onyx dials. They’re so rich and dark in a way that even black enamel can’t quite capture. Now pair the classy black onyx with a superb tourbillon from Olivier Mory, and you’ve got a recipe for a stunning watch for the finest of black-tie occasions.

It’s 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick, so it’s pretty wearable for a stone-dial tourbillon and should slip under a shirt cuff with relative ease. 

The back of the dial also features what BA111OD calls a “mirror film” and says it will reflect the upper face of the movement, but I’ve struggled to observe this in any pictures—perhaps it’s just one of those things you need to see hands-on with the watch.

Interestingly, as our friends at Fratello have pointed out, the movement itself is rotated in the case so that the crown is positioned at 4:00 instead of 3:00 and the tourbillon at 7:00 instead of 6:00.

I’m not a huge fan of this choice, as this feels like a watch that should have been kept a little more traditional due to its class and charm, but it is certainly interesting and shows more intentional design than merely slapping a stone dial over a tourbillon dial and calling it a day. 

The movement itself is a caliber BA.01, based on a tourbillon by Olivier Mory, which is manual-winding and has a whopping 100-hour power reserve. Its striking black finishing can be admired through the exhibition caseback, and certainly should be!

Horage Autark Tourbillon Salmon – $15,300

Horage is a little-known independent brand that’s been shaking up the industry much more than most people know with their new MicroReg system.

While this watch doesn’t feature that (unfortunately, because MicroReg with a tourbillon would be insane), it’s still a superb sporty tourbillon, definitely worth your attention. It’s practically perfect in size at 39.5mm by 9mm thick, and as an integrated sports watch, it’s sure to find some love for its sporty design. 

The dial is in a gorgeous salmon color with an unusually-placed power reserve indicator at 11:00, which introduces a few pops of color. The bezel is brightly mirror-polished and stands out beautifully atop the brushed case.

The movement is Horage’s caliber K-TMR, a superb tourbillon with micro-rotor winding. This watch isn’t cheap, but for a micro-rotor tourbillon, it’s incredibly affordable.

Thanks to its micro-rotor, it’s just 3.6mm thick, which helps keep the rest of the watch thin and wearable. The 60-second flying tourbillon is made from titanium and weighs just 0.29 grams. And just look at the blacked-out bridges, with hand finishing! Truly an exceptional watch for its price.

CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition – $3,999

CIGA Design is a little-known Chinese designer watch brand with a strong multinational team of designers that produces shockingly affordable watches. In this case, their homage to Mount Everest is incredibly striking and beautiful.

Let me get this out of the way first—a tourbillon is one thing, but a central tourbillon is another altogether, and is usually reserved for the upper limits of haute horlogerie.

The hands, of course, are shaped like mountaineers’ picks, which makes reading the time very difficult and probably makes scaling Mount Everest much easier. 

The watch was released to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the summit of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary, so the first four flags atop the mountain are hung from the minutes hand: Britain, Nepal, India, and the United Nations.

The base of the dial, believe it or not, is actually crafted from stones taken from the base of Everest, and the strap is textured in a similar style. Overall, it’s a watch that is full of little winks and careful design inclusions, making for a playful and well-made timepiece.

Agelocer Tourbillon Men’s New Hollow Gold Mechanical Watch Ceramic Bezel Blue Gold – $999

Sure, this watch might not have the best name. It also might not be quite your style. But for $999, with that lovely combination of white on rose gold on blue, I can’t help but let it tug on my heartstrings a little.

And after all, its design was crafted by Étienne Ruffieux, who has worked for brands like Zenith and Parmigiani Fleurier. It also received awards at the Europe Design Awards and French Design Awards. 

Still not convinced? Just look at the superb level of skeletonization Agelocer has achieved here, even with a movement featuring two barrels and a flying tourbillon.

A lot of brands cite architecture as the inspiration for their case, but in this case, it’s actually believable if you examine the faceting of the case and the contrast of brushed and mirrored surfaces.

Inside, the watch runs on the caliber 9001, which uses two barrels to create an 80-hour power reserve. The flying tourbillon is elegant, but I do wish they had treated the balance wheel with a rose gold finish so that it doesn’t stick out quite so much in yellow gold. That said, it sure does make for an eye-catching appearance.

Sugess Tourbillon Master SU8230SW – $659

This is it. Does it really get any cheaper than this for a real, functioning tourbillon? I personally believe it’s the cheapest decently-made tourbillon out there. It’s classy, clean, and simple. Mirror-finished case, white enamel dial, and printed Breguet numerals. 

The Breguet hands aren’t the best, but they’re still elegant and simple even if they’re not totally faithful to the original style. The crown is a little large and a little too fluted for my taste, but it is helpful for the manual-wind movement.

And then we get to the movement. Just look at that 6:00 tourbillon. To be fair, this is a karrusel, supplied by the Seagull ST8230.

But that is a real, honest-to-goodness tourbillon for under $700. You’ve even got a decent effort at finishing with blued screws and some sort of radial Côtes de Genève-esque finishing on the bridges. That is a whole lot of watch for not a lot of cash.

BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. – $9,200

The T.V.D. is much like the Onyx Tourbillon I covered earlier in this list, but a little more expensive and with a totally different style. It’s sporty, fresh, and modern.

The entire case has received a DLC treatment to make it a lovely tantalum gray finish, which works beautifully with the blue accents on the dial.

The skeletonized dial puts Olivier Mory’s fine craftsmanship on full display. All the stats are the same as the Onyx Tourbillon, except for one thing, which I want to linger on for a moment, as I’ve never seen it before in watches. 

The T.V.D. features a sapphire crystal with special NFC technology that is only in the crystal, so the entire rest of the watch is perfectly mechanical and traditional.

This is supplied by the Swiss brand STISS, which I’d never even heard of until I stumbled across this watch while researching this article.

They specialize in specialized sapphire glasses with different technological advancements, including their Augmented Glass (which has contactless payment technology) and in-development Key Glass, which will provide your authentication for crypto and NFT services. 

The T.V.D. features its simpler ID glass, which creates a totally unique digital signature for the watch. The crystal can be scanned with your phone just by holding it in close proximity, and immediately, information about the watch is available at your fingertips, making it almost impossible to counterfeit.

In my opinion, that’s a major advancement in the true spirit of the tourbillon: making the watch truly unique and exceptional.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T CAR5A90 – ~$10,000

All the other watches on this list are from small brands or Chinese manufacturers. A watch like this, from a big-name Swiss brand, with a chronograph and tourbillon, for significantly less than other brands.

Now the prices for many of these models have been raised on TAG Heuer’s website to around $30,000 (those darn tariffs).

But here’s the real kicker—you can pick up a TAG Heuer CAR5A90 for a market price of a hair over $10,000 on the secondhand market, and can even find some as low as $7,000. For context, the Omega Speedmaster, a perfectly standard chronograph with no tourbillon, runs for over $7,000. That is insane value.

But wait, there’s more! The chronograph in this watch uses a column wheel, which is the most complex and luxurious way of doing it.

And allow me to remind you that none of the other watches on this list could do anything beyond the tourbillon and an occasional power reserve. It also has 65 hours of power reserve and automatic winding. 

Now for the mic drop moment: the Heuer-02T is COSC-certified, so it’s accurate to an insane -4/+6 seconds per day. That is the true spirit of a tourbillon: focusing on precision above all. This just might be the ultimate everyday wear tourbillon for its price.

Conclusion

A good tourbillon watch will never be cheap, but price doesn’t need to be a barrier to adding one of these horological marvels to your collection. Yes, they won’t all run perfectly forever or keep perfect time like a tourbillon from one of the finest Swiss brands. 

But if you’re just fascinated by that little spinning cage, never fear—there are options for you, my fellow watch nerd.

Mission: find field watches under $1000 that don’t look like cheap trash on the wrist. Easy-peasy. If you’ve been typing things into your Google search like “affordable field watches” or “What are the best cheap field watches on the market?”, you’ve stumbled upon this blog post by no mistake.

Accessible field watches are everywhere on the market; you just need to know where to look. The problem is that there’s still a huge stigma circulating in the watch world that budget watches are no good. It simply isn’t true.

Yes, buying a high-end luxury field watch will ensure a premium look and feel, offering a blend of superior materials, better resistance to the elements, and an overall better quality build.

But what if I were to tell you that you can still find good resistance, legibility, performance and reliability in a budget field watch that will cost you no more than $1000?

If you’re scoffing at the idea, stick with me for another couple of minutes. I’m going to prove that affordable field watches are out there, that they’re a thing, and that you can have one for less than a rack.

Why Everyone Needs a Field Watch

The very essence of a field watch is its simplicity. This watch style has a rugged charm and no-frills design that makes it perfect for quickly glancing at the time, no matter where you are or your situation.

In fact, it’s easy to see the qualities that both a pilot’s watch and a field watch share. Both are robust and highly legible, focusing on the essentials while retaining a disciplined aesthetic.

Above all, field watches make for great everyday watches because their designs focus on reliability and consistency. They’re often made from high-grade materials like steel, titanium or ceramic and are fitted with mechanical, quartz and solar-powered movements, giving modern-day collectors lots of variation.

Although we often think of the fundamental basics of a field watch as having an Arabic numeral hour track, modern-day iterations can include sector dials, stick indexes, and even California dials.

Above all, however, field watches should live up to the demanding scenarios they may find themselves in, so toughness, luminosity and a suitable level of water resistance are all important.

Now that we know what field watches should be, let’s take a look at what we can get for under $1000. Here are my top 11 in no particular order…

Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style SRPH29

The 5 Sports Field watch by Seiko is rugged, affordable and straightforward. Most Seiko watches offer these qualities, but those models within the brand’s 5 Sports watch collection recall design features from classics of the past.

You can expect all the bang-for-buck attributes that you normally would from any Seiko watch, but this time in a compact 39mm diameter for smaller wristed males, complete with the archetypal field watch aesthetic.

This SRPH29 reference features a khaki green dial, an inner 12-hour track, and luminous-coated double-digit minutes around the outer scale. I particularly like the subtle shots of orange at the cardinal points around the minute track, and at the tip of the central seconds hand.

They marry nicely with the inner lining of one of Seiko’s military-like nylon straps. If you were worried that Seiko was leaving its roots behind by focusing on higher-priced models as of late, then don’t be.

There are still plenty of sub-$500 models like this one that promise surprising value for money, and with the variation you need to kit your watch collection out with different colours, case sizes and strap materials to boot.

Seiko even equips this watch with a see-through caseback so that you get to enjoy the workhorse Calibre 4R36 as it performs.

Marathon General Purpose Mechanical

Field watches have always been associated with compact case proportions, making them appealing for those with less endowed wrists. The Marathon General Purpose Mechanical watch is an excellent example of such, taking up residence on the wrist with a discreet and unimposing 34mm diameter.

Even so, it compromises on nothing in terms of quality and performance. This is a superb choice for a mechanical under the $500 bracket, and a rare find. Its design is purpose-built for any terrain with a spec list that you’d generally associate with a higher-priced bracket.

The key takeaway is that Marathon is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Armed Forces, fortifying its reputation in crafting some exceptionally well-built field watches for everyday use.

This model is crafted from high-impact composite fibreshell and houses a Seiko movement. You can’t go wrong.

BOLDR Venture Blue Moon

Seriously, find me another automatic field watch with a full-lume dial like the BOLDR Venture Blue Moon. You simply won’t. This field watch for under $1000 looks like a standard white dial tool with contrasting black elements that enable you to read the face wherever you are.

But, BOLDR notches up the legibility factor with a dial that fully illuminates in the dark, plus this watch feels light on the wrist thanks to its 38mm titanium case.

Like some Seiko watches, the Venture Blue Moon features a crown positioned at 4 o’clock to avoid snagging on clothes and promises 200-meter water resistance too. Additional features include a set of custom-made black hands that stand out with conviction against the luminous blue dial at night, as well as a Japanese movement, a sapphire lens, and a black polyester strap.

Hamilton Khai Field 38

Of course, Hamilton had to make it onto this list with its Khaki Field watch design – a mechanical field watch for under $1000. It’s a simplified three-hand display with an outer 12-hour dial and inner 24-hour scale that captures the essence of the trench watches of yesteryear and harkens back to the brand’s involvement in crafting and supplying watches to the United States Armed Forces during WWII.

I particularly love the use of beige lume in these designs. The material serves to capture the vintage radium lume that would have been used during the advent of the early field watch during WWI.

Hamilton kits the Khaki Field watch out with the H-50 Calibre, a no-date movement with an extended power reserve of 80 hours. The watch completes its look on a khaki textile strap and an elongated screw-down crown.

Newmark 52 Field

Newmark Watch Company is a British heritage brand that specialises in reimagined classics. The brand’s catalogue comprises vintage-inspired skin divers, distinctive field watches and classic chronographs – the Newmark 52 of which is a field watch.

It boasts a striking ivory dial that brings vintage nuances to the forefront. To look at the watch, the Newmark 52 doesn’t look like much. Yet the simplified dial with subtle splashes of blue from the heated blue hands brings field watch credentials to the forefront.

Both the case and dial of this sub-$1k field watch nod back to the military companions of the 1950s, while inside, a modern quartz movement keeps track of time accurately with every second.

Casio G-Shock

Casio G-Shocks have a strong but lightweight carbon core, making them useful for just about any situation you can think of, whether spending a day at the beach or wading through knee-high mud.

With next-level digital technology, this field watch offers Bluetooth connectivity housed in a lightweight module with solar-powered functionality. Surprisingly, despite its beefy, masculine aesthetics, this G-Shock is relatively slim, measuring a thickness of just 12.9mm.

Perhaps a G-Shock was not what you had in mind when you first considered a sub-$1000 watch, but when you weigh up its rugged, ultra-resistant, lightweight and legible design, paired with features like a GMT complication and alarm, it’s certainly a watch that extends far beyond the basic field watch functionality.

Unimatic Modello Due U2 Classic – UC2

Unless you’ve been practising self-isolation since lockdown, you’ll have heard of the watch brand Unimatic. In fact, the company was founded in 2015, but the last few years have been the best for Unimatic.

It tends to take a stark, minimalist approach to creating tool watches, and evidence of that can certainly be seen in the design of the Unimatic Modello Due U2 Classic – UC2, which you can buy for well under the $1000 mark.

This is a made-in-Italy field watch, just like all Unimatic watches, and features pale green Super-LumiNova-coated indexes and hands against a rich black dial for complete contrast. 

This 38mm model features a beefy, easy-grip screw-down crown to help the case uphold its impressive 300M water resistance, while on the back of the case is an engraving of the ‘Rosa dei Venti’ logo that conceals the Seiko NH35A automatic movement, complete with a 41-hour power reserve.

Expedition Field Post Solar 36mm Recycled Fabric Strap Watch

You can’t beat the Timex Expedition Field Post Solar watch. It’s a win-win scenario, whatever way you look at it. It’s cheap, it ticks all the aesthetic boxes of a field watch, it’s powered by a solar quartz movement, measures a true-to-era size, and comes in this slick black-coated stainless steel case. \

To make the decision easier, this eco-friendly watch even comes on a recycled fabric strap in a dark sand colour, which sets off the beige faux-vintage lume on the hands and triangular hour pointers. For its price point, this has to be my favourite field watch on this list.

It has the 24-hour inner scale, 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown and caseback. Plus, Timex’s track record in creating quality timepieces for very reasonable prices is second to none.

If you want the reassurance of a solid name, combined with a design that manifests all the quintessential features of a field watch, the Expedition Field Post Solar is a no-brainer.

Studio Underdog 02 Series Steffany Blue

Pink Lemonade and Steffany Blue. They sound like bizarre dial colours for a field watch, but field watches they certainly are.

These colours just work. The blue-green shade of the pastel dial in the Steffany Blue iteration is going to garner some attention, not just for its colour but for the pure fact that the 02 Series watch is such a playful twist on the classic field watch, yet it totally looks like a field watch.

If you’re undecided at this point, take a break and come back to this watch. I guarantee you’ll fall in love with it. It’s a spin on the Tiffany dial, surely? And Studio Underdog has daringly brought it to the field watch. This brand knows what it’s doing.

Let’s not forget it was elected by the British Ministry of Defence to make an accurate and reliable watch for the armed forces during WWII.

The 02 Series Steffany Blue is a sandwich dial with a base layer coated with custom-made Super-LumiNova, with a 1mm sapphire disc mounted to its surface. Interestingly, the hour markers, minute track, and brand name are all printed onto the surface of the sapphire disc.

When the two dials are affixed to one another, they create the impression of a much thicker, chunkier dial that can entrance with its sense of depth. These printed details appear to float atop the dial in the daylight, casting shadows onto the lower base.

Hands down, this is the most intriguing field watch of the lot. You get a tried and tested Sellita movement with this watch and a smooth black band made by The Strap Tailor.

Vaer A5 Field Watch

https://www.vaerwatches.com/products/a12-dirty-dozen-swiss-automatic-40mm

Inspired by the iconic Dirty Dozen watches of yesteryear, the Vaer A5 Field watch measures a sweet spot size of 40mm, making it a great choice for males with average-sized wrists.

As a respectful homage to the Swiss-made Dirty Dozen design, the microbrand equips the A5 Field Watch with Swiss-made components, accurately capturing the historically relevant design.

A threaded screw-down design ensures the case stays watertight and airtight, and as part of the brand’s “ocean to office” motto, two interchangeable straps are provided. These comprise a water-ready strap and a Horween leather strap option.

The cathedral hands on this dial give the Vaer A5 watch a Hamilton-type look, with the small seconds sub-dial serving a very practical purpose, donating more space to the two main timekeeping hands and achieving a simplified, minimalist display.

Dryden Heartlander Automatic 38mm

The Dryden Heartlander has a president bracelet. Enough said. This field watch demonstrates thoughtful attention, since the bracelet also features quick-release spring bars and a nice taper, allowing the watch to fit snug on the wrist. It has a somewhat refreshing versatility to its design.

Take, for example, the range of dials you can get in this series. From the “Traditional Field” watch style as seen here, to the “Classic Sport” style with the 3-6-9 markers, there is consistent attention to detail across all the models.

The Heartlander is powered by a Miyota movement, balancing performance with style perfectly. The addition of the President bracelet here spoils us. It’s a beautiful touch. The options are endless when it comes to experimenting with this watch.

You can even switch out the bracelet for a sportier NATO if you want to achieve a somewhat more military-esque look. Lastly, the injection of soft gold gilt hues is a delightful addition to this Heartlander watch.

They open up more options for coloured canvas strap configurations and ramp up the detailing across the black display. Dryden also equips the watch with an arrow-shaped hour hand, a sapphire crystal glass front, and 100M water resistance.

Conclusion

The thing that makes a field watch a field watch is its simplicity. Strip a watch back to basics, and you have a legible, easily readable dial, a no-nonsense case, and the ability to pair that watch with pretty much everything in your wardrobe.

Some brands specialising in the field watch have military roots like Longines, Hamilton, Omega, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. You’ll recognise some of the names in that list from the beloved Dirty Dozen watches, from which many modern-day field watches take inspiration.

But you seldom find field watches made by those brands for under $1k unless you shop on the pre-owned market. The good news is that many other brands produce affordable field watches today, whether they be microbrands or names synonymous with accessibility, like Timex.

And while the archetypal field watch is a black dial with white Arabic numerals and highly visible hands, housed in a compact sub-40mm case, there is no one definitive rule.

Today, field watches come in all sizes and dial colours, many of which buck the trend with unconventional case materials and straps. Hopefully, these options have given you some food for thought while planning your next purchase.

The term “dress watch” sounds very simple and self-explanatory, and because of this, it’s very rarely elaborated upon. Watch wearers, whether new to the game or experienced, are expected to know what one is and how to pick a good one without any real guidance.

Dress watch offerings across the watch market are vast, and there are no official standards to differentiate a decent one from a bad one. And there are so many opinions and schools of thought surrounding the topic of dress watches, too. It’s an absolute minefield.

Some believe a dress watch should be pure and simple, and that no formal outfit is complete without one. Others believe you shouldn’t wear one at all, since checking the time when attending a special occasion is considered rude and distasteful.

But in my opinion, watch-wearing traditions have evolved so much over the decades that in this day and age, anyone can and should be able to wear whatever makes them happy.

Of course, the Cartiers and the Pataks of the world are considered the cream of the crop when it comes to quality dress watches, but what of those in the low-to-mid-tier section? What about the dress watches priced under $1000?

While this guide will list some dress watches that you’ll have no doubt heard of, I’ll also be shining the spotlight on some lesser-known brands. The truth is, there are some micro brands out there producing dress watches and bringing stuff to the table that even hard hitters would struggle to compete with, so they deserve a mention on this list, too.

Of course, automatic watches within this price bracket give you more bang for your buck, but quartz-powered dress watches are also worth some consideration, so I’ve included both! 

So, without further ado, let’s get stuck into this list of top 10 dress watches under $1000. 

Tissot Visodate

You only need to take a quick glance at the Tissot Visodate to realise that its design takes directional cues from a 1950s classic.

It has the curved dial and the domed sapphire glass that give a subtle vintage vibe, providing a scratch-resistant and anti-glare canopy over the dial, including its Day-Date complication at 3 o’clock.

And without being ostentatious, it exudes a distinct retro flavour that you can pretty much pair with any jeans and shirt combo. The Tissot Visodate is no longer available to purchase from the brand’s official website, but many Tissot stockists still have these models available to order.

Stowa Partitio Classic Black

If you quite like the look of Nomos watches but find them a little pricey, Stowa has a great alternative, named the Antea. Still, it’s slightly over budget, with a price tag of around $1,100, so, for something a little more affordable, take a look at this alternative dress watch from Stowa.

It’s called the Partitio, and comes in this “Classic Black” iteration, with legible Arabic numeral hour markers in a subtle cream colour, giving it a slightly vintage edge. The hands, too, have been treated with the same Super-LumiNova material, nodding to 1930s watch styles with their syringe profile.

For under $1000, this Stowa watch comes fitted with an automatic movement made in Switzerland. It also measures a nice and compact 37mm diameter, making it an ideal option for those wanting to avoid large-sized dress watches this summer. 

Cincinnati Guild Mechanical

I’ve touched on Cincinnati Watch Company before. And if you haven’t yet heard of this brand, go check it out, because it’s an American brand making really nice watches for an affordable price.

What’s more, it’s not even trying to be anything other than itself. Its designs take inspiration from the golden era of mechanical watchmaking within this mid-western town in Southwest Ohio – an area that had a powerful voice in the industry during the 20th century.

After all, the town was once home to Gruen watch company, where Cincinnati Watch Company now resides.

The Guild Mechanical is an unusual-looking watch that will undoubtedly appeal to you if you have an eye for unorthodox designs. The 38mm steel watch features an inner white dial and a black hour ring, framed by a discreet minute track.

But here’s where the design gets even more interesting, because for under $1k, you’re not just getting any Swiss movement, you’re getting a Sellita Elabore movement that has been hand-assembled in-house at Cincinnati Watch Company. It’s a pretty interesting concept to add to any collection, especially one lacking a quirky dress watch. 

Baltic MR01

Baltic is an influential micro brand based in Paris. When I mentioned earlier that some micro brands are producing affordable dress watches with techniques and design elements that many larger brands wouldn’t even attempt, the MR01 by Baltic is what I’m talking about.

Firstly, the fact that this watch has been integrated with a micro rotor movement is pretty exceptional. It’s incredibly rare to see a watch with a micro rotor movement at this price point. It also has a nice compact case size that fits the current demand for smaller-sized watches.

As a vintage throwback to yesteryear watches, Baltic equips the MR01 (MR standing for micro rotor) with an acrylic glass. It’s not quite the same as having a sapphire glass front, but perhaps this is the only real compromise you make with this watch.

You could also argue that the beautifully textured dial is probably the most unusual in this entire dress watch guide.

The hour track, represented by silver-coloured Arabic numerals and the feuille-shaped hands, combines with a smooth off-centre small seconds sub-dial, creating something pretty phenomenal, especially when you admire it up close and under the light.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB41

This is a no-brainer. Regardless of whether you’re a fan of the rugged dive tool, or you’re a sucker for the classic sports watch, everyone needs a dress watch like the Seiko Cocktail Time in their collection. There are plenty of designs to pick from in this collection, too.

Take, for example, the 77, the 43, and the SRPBs. They’re all top choices. Most of the designs within the collection are the 40mm models, though you can get a more manageable 38mm option should you have slender wrists that could do without the extra steel.

Their timeless dials work on a variety of wrists, while the case itself comprises the brand’s Hardlex Crystal, with case depths spanning just short of 12mm and a 50-meter water resistance that will serve you well should you get caught in the odd rainstorm.

The Seiko Pressge Cocktail Time SRPB41 is a fine example. Its deep blue dial, adorned in a shimmering pressed pattern, sits under a boxed crystal, with tapering hands driven by an in-house automatic movement capable of providing a 41-hour power reserve.

Seiko completes this classic-looking dress watch with a 5-link stainless steel bracelet that will easily elevate any casual wardrobe. Aesthetics aside, I love the concept behind this range.

Seiko launched the Cocktail Time series in 2010, taking inspiration from the work of mixologist Hisashi Kishi. Seiko’s use of colourful dials and in-house mechanical expertise makes the Cocktail Time one of the best value prospects in the realm of affordable dress watches today.

Tissot Le Locle

 Le Locle is Tissot’s home, and although the Seamaster and PRX models are probably the most talked about and popular of Tissot models, when it comes to dress watches, this collection, named after Tissot’s home city, is about as classic as they come.

The range offers some really neat designs, and despite their innate simplicity, added details like the patterned Guilloche centre and smooth outer hour ring create the look of a sector dial.

Also blazoned into the dial at 6 o’clock is the Powermatic 80 lettering, which relates to the power reserve of the Powermatic 80 movement sitting inside these steel cases.

Dress watches are the simplest-looking timepieces, but if you wanted something with an added layer of finesse and depth, you could consider the Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart model. It features a cut-out section of the movement on the dial side, granting a unique glimpse into the engine as it performs.

This 40mm model features a Le Locle-adorned see-through caseback, exposing the movement further. The good news is that you can easily transform this dress watch’s look.

Swap the traditional brown-coloured leather strap with a different band using Tissot’s innovative interchangeable quick-release bracelet design, and enjoy smooth strap changes while you’re on the fly.

Junghans Max Bill Quarz

Sadly, you can’t get the Junghans Max Bill watch with an automatic movement for under $1k anymore, but the quartz version doesn’t exactly disappoint either. Its language of design is one that never seems to have any borders.

People, whether collectors or not, can appreciate its universal style. If you like the signature style of Junghans’ Bauhaus watches, you’ll love the quartz Max Bill. The dials adhere to minimalist design principles and play into the concept of 1930s-era watches.

Even after so many decades, Bauhaus-inspired watches still carry an enduring appeal. The typeface and Junghans’ use of space is nothing short of beautiful. As a lover of German watch design, this is what I’d personally be spending my money on if I were looking at dress watches within this price category.

This 38mm model relays the time functionally and practically with Arabic numeral hour markers and straight central hands, surrounded by a bezel-less case made from steel. Yes, this watch is powered by quartz, but looking at its dial, you’d never guess it was.

Orient Bambino 38mm Small Seconds

When the Orient Bambino came out with a small-second complication and 38mm size, it got heads turning. It took the classic Bambino three-hander and equipped it with the small seconds function at 6 o’clock, and it’s beautiful.

It has a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm, making it a perfectly compact design for smaller wrists that won’t overhang or impose too much presence when paired with business attire or a suit.

This is just one of the dress watch options you can choose from within the Bambino family, which comes in different dial options, including a black iteration with a white small seconds dial, a white option with gold elements, and an ivory display for a more vintage edge.

Being a sub-40mm model, the Bambino Small Seconds wears so much better as a dress watch, and the dial opening definitely balances the proportions out on the wrist.

Mido Multifort Patrimony

Mido has been around since 1919 and is associated with its automotive-inspired creations and, of course, the Multifort collection. While the Multifort is the brand’s sporty watch collection, some of the designs do sit on the edge of the dress watch genre.

In particular, we have designs like the Multifort Patrimony, which exudes a sensible, casual persona and a beautiful gradient dial, as seen in this striking deep blue variant, complete with a set of syringe hands. Personally, I find the timepieces from this collection more attractive than the Ocean Star.

They have a dial edge and a bezel thinness similar to a MeisterSinger (yes – looping back around to my love of German watches again!). Moreover, I picked out this design since,  as a dress watch under $1000, it certainly looks like it costs a lot more.

The attention to detail in the slimly carved Arabic numerals and the darkening edge around the blue dial make for a particularly intriguing design. The polished steel crown is engraved with the famous Mido name, while the light brown-toned strap is super classic and full of charm.

The sector dial enables the hour markers and the minutes to stand out with prominence in their own sections, and the contours of the polished lugs help to suck the dimensions of the 40mm case in, making it feel more compact overall.

The high-quality movement is also worth mentioning. With a power reserve of 80 hours (the Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 movement), the Multifort Patrimony will keep an accurate time for several days if you want to alternate it with another watch. Plus, it features a Nivahron balance spring to regulate and control the oscillations of the balance wheel. 

The Hamilton Classic Intra-Matric Auto

Now, the Intra-Matric Champagne watch from Hamilton has been discontinued, but you can still pick it up from various Hamilton stockists from new, and for under a rack. Pre-owned, you will find it even cheaper.

This is another example of a dress watch with a thin bezel. This design element opens up a vast champagne dial, allowing the slim hour and minute hands and slim stick indexes to display the time in a simplified and pared-back format.

Without a doubt, the champagne dial is the star of the show, marrying perfectly with Hamilton’s choice of a dark brown calf leather strap, complete with a traditional steel pin buckle.

The watch has undeniable vintage flair, yet because of its relaxed and simplified dial layout, it will also work well with a contemporary suit. Hamilton experts give this watch a sapphire crystal glass front and 50 meters of water resistance. 

Wrapping Up

Whether it’s a reputable name like Tissot or Hamilton that you seek in a dress watch manufacturer, with a bit of history behind its design, or a kookie micro-brand with a bit of quirkiness, you can certainly pick up a beautiful dress watch for under $1000.

The models in this guide range from simple, minimalist three-handers to models combined with a complication or two. To anyone looking for their first dress watch, I always recommend they try on as many different sizes, case materials and designs as possible to get a feel for what looks and feels natural.

Above all, keep it classy and straightforward, and you can’t go wrong with any of these affordable dress watches.

Sick of bulky, oversized watches? You aren’t alone. In fact, the truth is that small wrists are more common than you think. In this day and age, 42mm-sized watches are the norm, and even larger diameters are commonplace.

But in recent years, we have seen a resurgence in smaller-sized wristwatches, and luckily, for those who aren’t keen on the field watch, there’s now more choice than ever before. Oversized watches are still a mainstay, and that will likely always be the case.

But if you so happen to have small wrists, by wearing a behemoth on your wrist, you risk looking like a kid wearing his dad’s watch. Indeed, a large watch on a small wrist can look unsightly, so the key is to find a case diameter that suits your wrist shape as well as your proportions.

38mm Watches Are Here to Stay

Up until recently, wristwatches have been getting bigger and bigger. Thankfully for those less endowed, including myself (I’m partial to a boyfriend watch), the trend has gradually slowed, and smaller watches are making quite the comeback.

Smaller men’s watches and unisex watches are in, and we now appreciate that watches don’t have to be big and heavy to be worth their price tag.

While there’s still a significant distinction between a man’s and a lady’s watch, lines are blurring, and that’s a good thing. In fact, crafting a watch in smaller proportions requires a higher level of skill and refinement, so much so that consumers perhaps overlook it.

Crafting a smaller, thinner watch requires a smaller, thinner engine, so a 300-meter water-resistant dive watch with proportions of 10mm in thickness and 38mm in width is no easy feat, trust me.

And the downsizing of wristwatches is something that we’re seeing across the board, from microbrands to Swiss hard hitters like Breitling and TUDOR. Big names are shaving millimetres off their biggest icons, and no one is complaining.

Perhaps, the sub-40mm watch is what the industry has been waiting for? A newfound appreciation for refinement in smaller, more concise proportions that makes sense on the wrist!

Understanding Watch Sizes

It can be easy to lose your way when exploring different watch sizes. Simply put, one 38mm watch won’t wear the same as another 38mm watch. That’s because there is more at play than just the diameter of a case alone. Let’s break it down into simpler terms…

Of course, case diameter is the most common watch measurement of all. The diameter of a watch is the measurement from one side of the case to the other, minus the crown. Anything around 36mm to 40mm is ideal for those with slender wrists.

Anything above the 40mm diameter is considered large on an average 6.5 mm- 7 mm wrist circumference. But here’s where it gets confusing, because case depth can also significantly affect how a watch feels and wears on the wrist.

A watch with a slim profile and more tapered lugs will fit more snugly and compactly on the wrist than a thicker watch with squared-off, angular case sides. In the first instance, a slimmer case may be more forgiving of its larger diameter. Now let’s complicate things further.

The lug-to-lug measurement of a case (that is, the distance of the tip of the top lug to the tip of the bottom lug) can make a watch feel too large for the wrist, regardless of case diameter. If the lug-to-lug distance is too long, it will protrude over the sides of the wrist.

You should also consider other factors like crown size, bezel, and pushers on a case. While case diameter and lug-to-lug measurements play an integral role in how a watch feels and wears on the wrist, the smaller features matter too.

11 Top 38mm Watches in Every Category

Now that you have a basic understanding of the factors that contribute to the size of a watch, let’s look at some sweet spot 38mm watches in every category, from dress watches to rugged diver watches, and even the classic steel sports watch. Here they are in no particular order.

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M 38mm 220.10.38.20.01.004

The black and steel version of the 38mm Omega Seamaster is an absolute classic. Its simple three-handed layout makes it suitable for anything from a dinner date to an afternoon at the races.

Its symmetrical steel case, paired with a sophisticated three-link bracelet, holds a Co-Axial Master Chronometer at its centre – the Calibre 8800 – and is certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, promising the industry’s highest standards in accuracy and mechanical precision.

So many love the Seamaster for its compact yet robust design. Plus, if you flip this 150M water-resistant case over, you get a sapphire exhibition glass on the reverse to admire the movement at work.

Omega Speedmaster 38mm 324.30.38.50.03.001

Maybe you already own the ionic black tone-on-tone Speedmaster watch, and you’d like to level up your collection with something different. This blue dial configuration of the 38mm Omega Speedmaster watch certainly gives the famous chronograph a twist.

Its light blue shimmering dial provides the Speedmaster with an extra layer of indulgence. The sun-brushed blue dial is the perfect canvas for a set of three oval-shaped sub-dials, while the tachymeter around the edge allows you to track speed based on distance on a darker blue background for added legibility.

What lends the Speedmaster such comfortable dimensions is its tapering lugs that transition into a brushed and polished 5-link bracelet seamlessly.

Speake-Marin Openworked Dual Time Titanium 38mm 413809250

Anyone who has dipped their toes into the exclusivity of the Speake Marin world will appreciate that the Openworked Dual Time watch is not a cheap watch by any stretch of the imagination.

Still, if you’re planning to push the boat out this summer and are looking for a watch that blends compact proportions with high-quality craftsmanship, you’re on the right lines to look at this watch.

The dual-time complication has been in Speake-Marin’s catalogue for some 70 years and was utilised by the pilots of Pan America Airlines. Today, you can find it in a more ergonomically crafted titanium material, offering a lightweight build that you’ll forget is even on your wrist during long-haul flights.

This is a new-gen Picadilly case in grade 5 titanium with a sapphire crystal front and back that shows an openworked dial and the complex mechanism of the Calibre SMA02 at work through the rear.

A black and brown scale cleverly enhances the dual time indication at 9 o’clock, while the small seconds sub-dial resides between 1 and 3 o’clock.

It’s great to see a complex and non-conventional layout in a 38mm modern watch. Speake-Marin seems to get the balance just right with a smooth black leather strap and unusual details like the heart-shaped hour hand.

Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey Titanium 38mm 565.NX.7071.RX

The Hublot Classic Fusion in Racing Grey is a much more attainable 38mm watch than the Speake-Marin Openworked Dual Time watch, but it also looks drastically different. Hublot is a watchmaker associated with bold, masculine-looking watches built from legit cool AF materials.

However, this particular Classic Fusion watch is not manufactured from the brand’s proprietary King Gold, nor its own high-tech ceramic. This is a lightweight titanium case that emphasises the wearability that goes hand-in-hand with a compact 38mm watch.

That said, the polished facets running along the edges of the case and the angular lines of the brushed titanium surface do create a more chiselled and aggressive appearance that can make the watch feel bulkier on the wrist.

MeisterSinger Perigraph 38mm BM1101G

Meistersinger is a brand with German roots that made a name for itself by creating timepieces with a singular-hand concept. To a novice, the one-hand dial may sound like a complicated way to tell the time, but theoretically, the concept promotes a simplified timekeeping approach.

The Perigraph is a sector dial with a recessed inner date ring and a long needle-fine singular hand that reaches right out to kiss a minute scale around the edge of a white display. For a 38mm watch, the Perigraph creates the impression of a vast, almost flat dial but is saved by a case depth of 10.4mm, which gives it a bit of meat.

The blue minute markers and light brown Arabic numeral hour markers are a nice touch, too, marrying well with the light brown alligator leather strap.

H3: NOMOS Glashütte Club Campus Night Sky 38mm

One stand-out advantage of the solid caseback versions of the Club Campus watch by German brand Nomos Glashutte is the personalisation element.

You can have a specially engraved message on the back of the brand’s non-sapphire caseback versions, making them a popular option for those looking to gift a watch to a loved one to mark a special milestone.

But even if you just love the contemporary beauty and unique colour combinations of the Club Campus, or even the Bauhaus elegance of the brand’s other popular lines, Nomos watches tend to wear small.

This 38mm watch is a relatively new model within the Club Campus range and was launched alongside a striking yellow-coloured Starlight iteration.

This model features a dramatic blue display inspired by the night sky, along with a vivid orange small seconds hand at 6 o’clock and lots of luminous material applied to the Roman and Arabic numerals of this California dial.

Nivada Grenchen Chronosport 38mm 77001A45

If you’re big into your sports watches, you’ll have probably explored Nevada Grenchen watches. The brand is loved for several iconic designs, particularly the F77. But this 38mm watch is the Chronosport, endowed with taupe sub-counters at 9 and 12 o’clock for the small seconds and totaliser.

The Chronosport watch is a unique mix of futuristic shapes and retro elements. The Art Deco typography is an unusual addition in a chronograph and was the work of talented dial designer, Jean Singer, who also innovated the Omega Speedmaster Racing model and the TAG Heuer Skipper.

This 38mm steel model has a domed sapphire crystal glass, which enables the watch to look and feel smaller on the wrist. At the same time, a total of 10 strap configurations can instantly transform the look of the Chronosport to whatever you want, depending on your situation.

Grand Seiko SBGY008

Grand Seiko, though known for its high-end approach to watchmaking compared to Seiko, offers the reference SBGY008 in a very manageable 38mm diameter.

These ideal proportions for a dress watch frame a dial inspired by Winter in Shinshu – the location where one of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking facilities resides.

It is one of the company’s more expensive watches, being crafted from 18ct rose gold and boasting a meticulously hand-finished dial, not to mention a handcrafted Spring Drive movement – the pinnacle of Grand Seiko’s mechanical prowess.

The textured dial of this 38mm Grand Seiko watch catches the light unusually, capturing the bright look of snow, while the golden facets of its applied hour markers create shadows that give you an authentic feel for the brand’s meticulous watchmaking approach.

As a dress watch, you can’t beat 38mm proportions in a rose gold case, and if you like discreet luxury, Grand Seiko hits a home run with this design, embedding diamonds up the sloping sides of the case.

Czapek Passage de Drake Stairway to Eternity 18870005

Named after explorer Sir Francis Drake, the Passage de Drake collection by Czapek & Cie has a unique guilloche dial pattern in salmon that evokes a stairway design.

A repeated, stamped detailing on a dial is a familiar feature that we see in the classic sports watch, particularly those from the 1970s or those imitating the look of one.

The tapering profile of the watch’s case also seamlessly blends into the integrated bracelet, providing an overall compact feel on the wrist, while an “Easy Release” system and micro-adjustment device allow for quick amendments on the fly.

As far as steel sports watches go, the Passage de Drake Stairway to Eternity ticks all the boxes of the classic sports watch, with its integrated design, textured dial, sapphire glass, see-through exhibition caseback, and an in-house movement.

Squale Super- Big Arrows SUPERSSABK.AC

One of the more accessible 38mm watches on this list is the affordable Squale dive watch. I’ve always been a fan of the beads-of-rice bracelet because it gives a timepiece an authentic retro feel. Squale combines the steel bracelet with a 38mm steel case equipped with 200M water resistance in this design.

The lug-to-lug measurement of the Super-Squale Big Arrows watch falls within an ideal range of 45mm to 48mm, measuring on the lower end (45mm), so you certainly don’t need to worry about the case spilling over the sides of your wrist.

A double-domed sapphire crystal sits atop a black dial with lashings of Super-LumiNova material on its arrow-shaped hands and hour markers.

Of course, being a bona fide dive watch, the Super-Squale is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to measure elapsed time underwater without running the risk of accidentally extending dive time.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M 220.20.38.20.10.001

We started this guide with Omega, so we’ll end with Omega – one of the world’s most revered watchmakers and a name associated with horological excellence in every aspect. This time, it’s the 38mm Aqua Terra – another compact build that Omega manages to blend with sumptuous materials and an unusual dial colour.

Omega presents this Aqua Terra in steel and rose gold shades, pairing it with a sun-brushed light green dial. The brand’s proprietary 18k Sedna Gold produces a somewhat softer shade of rose gold, which Omega experts repeat in the bud-shaped hour markers and the faceted hands on the dial – all of which have received a layer of Super-LumiNova.

The Aqua Terra is a mix of smoothly sculpted contours, which you can see in the sloping lugs, which nicely draw this 38mm case into the wrist.

Conclusion

Just because leading watchmakers have spent years steadily increasing the diameters of their watches to the point where they almost became unwearable, it doesn’t mean nothing is left for those less endowed. In fact, recent trends over the last few years show that smaller proportions are the way to go.

Before this change, smaller-wristed males were limited to field watches or the odd dress watch at best. If not, they were encroaching on unisex territory, a label brands would use as another way of saying a “lady’s watch” without really saying it.

Brands have tuned into the fact that they could sell a watch better to the male or unisex audience without losing respect from smaller-wristed males who would have felt it inferior to buy a “woman’s watch”.

Now, male consumers don’t have to worry about that. A variety of 38mm watches are listed as “men’s” timepieces today, and they look as solid and purposeful as their beefier siblings.

Whether you have slender wrists or prefer the more compact profile of a high-end timepiece, the current luxury watch industry offers some incredibly beautiful options that, hopefully, this guide has highlighted for you.

No one is going to blame you for instantly thinking of countries like Japan and Switzerland when it comes to conversations about horological domination. It’s completely true that both countries dominate the watchmaking industry, and for very different reasons.

But when we really open the book and delve into the history of watchmaking, it’s much more of an international story. What if I were to tell you that some of the most important watch manufacturers in the world originated from America? True story, really!

A look at the current landscape tells us there are many more hidden players in the watchmaking game than meets the eye. Indeed, the Swiss are not the only ones who know a thing or two about escapements and balance springs.

In fact, the watchmaking scene in the US was positively thriving back in the late 1800s and early 1900s. By this point, America had impressed the Swiss with its watchmaking expertise and mass production of watch parts.

In fact, if it had not been for the Great Depression and World War II, the horological climate could have looked a lot different for us all. Who knows – the Swiss may have never even reclaimed their position as leaders in watch manufacture had it not been for those circumstances.

If you’re interested in exploring US watch brands, you’re reading the right article. In this guide, we’ll examine the history of watchmaking in America and highlight some of the best American watch companies.

The History of American Watchmaking 

Around the 17th and 18th centuries, watchmaking took off in America. Up to that point, the Swiss and British dominated this space. Britain was known for its accuracy, and though British watches may not have been the most stylish, they were certainly some of the most reliable.

It was indeed the Swiss who were the more fashion-conscious of the two countries. British manufacturers began selling their watches to European markets, whilst their cheaper models went to America.

As such, America soon realized that if it wanted to put itself on the map for creating watches of a particular class or style, it would need to disassociate itself from the cheap junk it was becoming known for, and actually begin manufacturing its own timepieces.

The US began large-scale watch manufacturing in Massachusetts in the 1850s, and it soon became a hotbed for watchmaking during the Industrial Revolution.

The Waltham Watch Company was launched in 1854 by Aaron Dennison. Thanks to his expertise, the company produced the first American-made watch and began developing advanced machinery and tools that eventually went on to help American watchmaking really take off.

The tools spread to other industries, too. Meanwhile, the machinery used to cut metal parts and produce watch components was not good news for the British or the Swiss.

Realising their cheap watches were no longer selling well in America, a quick visit across the pond confirmed that the country’s technology was far superior to their own and could even develop quality screws that their machinery couldn’t.

To cut a long story short, the Swiss were impressed by America’s newfangled technology. They took inspiration from them, and although the Swiss were still dominating the industry and producing watches with hand-finished components, they couldn’t compete with America on large-scale manufacture.

American design elements even became apparent in some of the simpler models, acquiring their own identity. But by the 1900s, the Swiss had managed to catch up with America and were competing in the same space for the more affordable sector.

While Swiss watches were made using components produced in many different factories, US watches were developed in one factory. Therefore, if the Swiss had a supplier problem, they had alternatives to explore. 

America didn’t have various suppliers to fall back on. Switzerland was also quick off the mark in supplying wristwatches to the military during the First World War.

By the time the Great Depression had arrived, consumer goods like wristwatches were out of the question. No one could afford them. However, Swiss brands were in a much better position to supply wristwatches to aid the efforts of WWII.

America would struggle to overcome this blow. One brand that did survive the ordeal, however, was a manufacturer called The Waterbury Clock Company – AKA Timex. Now hold that thought.

15 Best American-Made Watch Brands

Today, millions of watches are imported to the USA from countries like Switzerland and Japan every year. Although traditional American watchmaking had all but disappeared during the 20th Century, new entrepreneurs are gradually re-entering the watchmaking scene, each one striving to bring authentic American watchmaking back to its shores.

Some brands like RGM make almost every element of their watches in-house, while others like Shinola assemble watches in America, creating dozens of jobs but importing their components from third-party manufacturers overseas.

With that in mind, it’s easy to see how the lines can become blurred between those brands that are the true “Made in America” type and those that aren’t. Either way, here are 15 American watch brands producing good-quality watches in 2025.

Timex

Let’s kick-start this guide to the best American watch brands with a name you’ll have heard of: Timex. The brand is technically owned by a Dutch holding company and has a history that stems far beyond the Timex name (1950) to the Waterbury Clock Company, founded in the 1850s.

Timex is the brand that created the famous Mickey Mouse watches you’ll remember from your childhood, and innovated classics like the M79, the Marlin, and the Waterbury.

Along with producing simple time and date dress watches, Timex offers an array of military-inspired mechanicals, including GMT complications and chronographs.

Benrus

Benrus still resides in New York City and was founded in 1921 by three brothers. This American watch brand played an essential role during the Vietnam War, providing the American troops with legible field watches.

As such, its Type I and Type II watches were the top choice for the US Navy during the 1970s. The company specialises in military field watches and, over the years, has created many styles, acquiring an impressive fan base that included the likes of John F Kennedy, who was gifted a Benrus watch in the 1960s.

J.N. Shapiro

J.N. Shapiro is a relatively young brand that was founded in 2018. Based in California, the company’s founder, Josh Shapiro, and his team focus on crafting high-end watches. They hope that someday the company will become a vertically integrated setup.

The brand’s initial Infinity watch used German parts, enhanced by J.N. Shapiro’s in-house design, including its covetable engine-turned dials. Today, around 150 of its 180 watch components are created in-house, demonstrating the brand’s relentless drive for complete independence.

Of course, such a level of skill in a watch does not come cheap. J.N. Shapiro watches are expensive, with average prices ranging from $ 70k to $ 85k.

Weiss

Weiss was founded by a watchmaker with unparalleled expertise in horology, having worked for Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin – two of the “Big Three” in watchmaking. Cameron Weiss set up in 2013, developing wristwatches inspired by vintage aircraft and old 1950s diving apparatus.

Although originally founded in LA, Weiss now resides in Tennessee, where each watch is individually hand-assembled by a Swiss-trained watchmaker.

Every watch’s case, crown, and strap buckle is machined from a single block of steel, while inside each watch is an in-house movement that is 95% American-made.

Autodromo

Autodromo is another young brand (founded in 2011) that creates timepieces inspired by the world of motoring. Because of this special USP, the brand now appeals to motorsport enthusiasts far and wide.

One of the company’s bestsellers is the Prototipo Chronograph with a distinctive 1960s racing chronograph aesthetic. Meanwhile, the brand’s Group C model is a digital watch with motorsport roots, blending classic looks with the digital era.

RGM

If in-house manufacture is important to you in an American watch brand, RGM should be on your radar. The initials stand for Roland G. Murphy – the founder of the company and a trained watchmaker, who initially worked for Hamilton as a technical manager.

Murphy was responsible for crafting the first high-grade American mechanical watch in over four decades, resuscitating this once thriving industry.

Murphy followed this up with a moonphase calibre 20 watch with a tonneau-shaped case featuring a motor barrel that reduced friction. The mechanism was once used in American railroad watches.

Vortic

Vortic was founded on a unique vision shared by three entrepreneurs who wanted to create steel watches developed by a 3D printing machine, and could house original pocket watch movements.

These movements, discarded by brands like Waltham, Hamilton, and Elgin watches, appealed to collectors far and wide.

Today, Voetic watches are made using CNC machines. Still, they are no less impressive, honouring styles from yesteryear and falling into one of three main categories: the American Artisan, the Railroad Editions, and the Military.

Shinola

Shinola communicated its mission to reinvent quality watch manufacturing in America by naming itself after the defunct shoe polish company that became famous for its phrase “you don’t know shit from Shinola”.

Ironically enough, the Texas-based watchmaker uses watch parts imported from all over the world, including China, Thailand, and Europe. Shinola is a lifestyle brand offering watches with quartz and mechanical movements.

It has a nuanced history, chequered by the scrutiny it has received for bearing labels like “Made in America” and “Made in Detroit”. Even so, the brand produces a vast array of stylish watches of the quality that you would expect from its price point.

LUM-TEC

LUM-TEC is based in Ohio and owned by Wiegand Custom Watch Company LLC. That company produces parts for private-label watches, but LUM-TEC is its showcase brand.

As you would expect from its name, the brand is synonymous with excellent luminosity and specialises in its own luminous technology – MVD (Maximum Darkness Visibility). The technology comprises a white titanium dioxide layer and another six layers of custom-developed Super-LumiNova.

Lastly, the concoction receives a glass coat layer. Underneath the dial, however, are Japanese or Swiss movements. LUM-TEC even produces a cool lume-coated NATO strap that complements its rugged, no-nonsense military-inspired watch designs.  

Oak & Oscar

If you’ve heard of Oak & Oscar, you’re likely familiar with its Burnham watch – a time and date watch that takes its name from one of several Windy City Skyscrapers of its hometown, Chicago. As a running theme throughout Oak & Oscar’s catalogue, these watches have given the brand a unique identity. \

The “Oscar” part of the company is named after one of the founder’s pet dogs, and subsequently, the brand demonstrates its love of dogs in its mission statement, supporting local dog rescue centres via its sales of watches.

Nodus

The name Nodus derives from the Larin word for “pathways,” which signifies the microbrand’s uniting of two paths – modern and vintage. The company’s forest watch arrived in 2017 with a distinctive retro dive watch aesthetic.

That initial model went on to inspire popular designs like the Sector Dive and the Retrospect. Nodus uses imported watch parts but designs and assembles them in-house within its company’s HQs in Los Angeles.

Waldan

Whilst imprisoned during WWII, Polish company founder Oscar Waldan taught himself the craft of watchmaking at Buchenwald concentration camp. The company’s backstory is one of strength, resilience, and empowerment, and now resides in New York as Waldan Watch Company.

The company is now under the guidance of Walden’s grandson, who revived the brand in 2020. Waldan watches are a mix of important, home-soil parts, and feature high-grade stainless steel cases, sapphire crystal glass fronts, and FTS “Ameriquartz” movements.

The watches are all assembled in America and tested there, too, including popular designs like the Heritage Professional and Heritage Sport.

Vaer

Can’t afford the watches you like, and the ones you can afford, you dislike? If that’s your view on watches, you share your opinion with the founders of Vaer, so this American watch brand’s designs may be worth checking out. Vaer first began releasing watches assembled overseas, but now manufactures its own watches.

Vaer watches are aimed at sporty individuals and those who spend a lot of time outdoors, with designs like the D5 Tropic USA Automatic and S5 Calendar Field proving to be pillars of the brand’s success.

Vaer equips its watches with Japanese solar-powered watches and Sellita-powered automatics, making them perfect for everyday wear.

Resco Instruments

Every watch from Resco Instruments is designed, assembled, and tested at the company’s Coronado-based facilities in California, including its very first model – the Gent Patriot – a rugged utilitarian model with bags of character and solid functionality.

The brand specialises in watches that can be worn “downrange” for a more casual, daily look, and produces watches on a low scale. Some 600-1000 Resco Instruments watches are made each year.

Despite this, the collection is diverse, including models like the Black Frog, geared towards those who love military dive watch designs.

Cincinnati Watch Company

The clue is in the name. Cincinnati Watch Company is an American watch brand that arrived in 2018 and originally went by the name “Build Your Own Watch”. Since that founding year, the company has slowly but surely grown and now offers a catalogue of watches inspired by the historic landmarks of its town.

For example, the Union Terminal watch was inspired by the Art Deco “Queen City” train station, and the Guild Mechanical pays homage to the “Time Hall” guild hall that was once the home of the Gruen Watch Company, where it now resides.

American Watchmaking Today

Sadly, the US is no longer considered one of the leading lights in the watchmaking world, but the country deserves so much more recognition than it gets.

America played such an important role in the world of watches today, shaping history and birthing some of the most successful timepieces on the planet. We really do owe a lot to American watchmakers.

The current horological landscape tells us two things in particular. One is that foreign companies bought out leaders in this field of expertise. Examples include Hamilton, Ball Watch Company, and Bulova.

Secondly, it tells us that many other established brands sadly disappeared somewhere along the way. That said, some really good US watch brands are out there, offering timepieces at all price ranges from budget to high-end.

The reality is that very few quality watches are made in America today. Brands like Waltham, Bulova, and Elgin, which influenced the Swiss with their cutting-edge machinery and innovative designs, have survived, albeit only by name.

These brands are still popular, but not so much for their American roots, which is a huge shame. If for nothing else, America is today associated with the mass manufacture of inexpensive, disposable watches – a market that grew unexpectedly from the 1960s onwards.

Names like Timex are recognised all over the globe, and though this brand caters to a more budget-focused audience, its name is solid. As such, it was one of the few companies to survive Swiss domination and the impact of the quartz revolution.

Because of brands like these in this list, America could one day regain its reputation for crafting quality timepieces and rise from the ashes with a resurgence in authentic American-roots brands. Until then, there are still plenty of watches to enjoy.