Category: Watch Reviews

Every watch has a movement inside of it that breathes life into it. Some watches are operated with a battery, allowing for simple maintenance and high accuracy. Other watches are purely mechanical, with many moving parts working together to generate power.

Swiss manufacturing has a long history of making mechanical movements, and there was a time when nearly every single watch was mechanical. Now, consumers have the luxury of choosing from a variety of movements, usually boiling down to quartz or mechanical. 

Creating a movement entirely from scratch can be a huge challenge for some brands. This also comes with an increase in associated costs. Luckily, ETA SA has been a driving force in the Swiss watchmaking industry for a long time, providing high-quality and reliable movements that have powered countless watches since the brand’s debut in 1856.

One of the many great ETA movements is the 2892, a truly wonderful movement that balances luxury with cost. Today, we’re here to show you a sample of the many watches that house an ETA 2892 inside.

About the ETA 2892

Many watch companies use movements created by ETA in their watches. By doing so, they are also allowed to print the coveted “Swiss Made” label. The ETA 2892 is an automatic movement created in the workshops of  ETA SA.

ETA has gone to great lengths to ensure that all of its movements are worthy of the “Swiss Made” label. Because of its huge sway in the watch industry, ETA needs to make a quality product that supports its position in the market. Luckily, the 2892 is a truly fantastic work of mechanical art that lives up to its reputation. 

First, let’s go over all of the technical features of the movement. The ETA 2892 is a 21-jewel automatic movement that is relatively thin at 25.60mm and has a height of 3.6mm. Each movement is strong enough to generate an ample 42-hour power reserve.

The movement beats at 28,000 vibrations per hour and features hacking seconds and hand-winding. The accuracy ranges anywhere from +/-20 seconds per day to +/-5 seconds/day. This range depends on the grade or quality of the movement. The three grades are: elaborated grade, top grade, and chronometer (COSC) grade. Next, let’s talk history!

History of the ETA 2892

Some people might have heard about the Swiss brand Eterna. Eterna is a storied brand with rich history, and its most significant achievement is probably the creation of ETA SA. Eterna was founded in November 1856 by Dr. Joseph Girard and Urs Schild. 

They were one of the original movement manufacturers and continued to do so all the way until the company legally separated into Eterna and ETA SA. Eterna mainly focused on making watches, while ETA SA focused on movements.

The mighty Swatch Group now controls ETA SA, so it’s no wonder that ETA movements can be found in many of their brands. ETA movements are a gold standard in the watch world and are a “go-to” movement, especially when costs are concerned.

The Best ETA 2892 Watches

ETA movements are amazing right off the shelf. Of course, brands can take their time to beautify and personalize the movement, but the core features remain the same. We mentioned different grades before. Don’t worry; there’s no test for you today! 

Instead, these grades simply determine how rigorously the movement was tested before being used in the watch. Below are 15 examples of quality timepieces that will delight any future buyer. We’ll provide the description; all you need to do is imagine the amazing features of the watch!

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 212.30.41.20.01.002, Caliber 2500, based on the 2892-A2)

 

First on the list is an offering from the much-loved brand Omega. The Omega Seamaster Diver just oozes cool, and variations of this watch have been made famous by the James Bond movies. For example, the helium escape valve on the top left corner is actually used by Bond in the movies to operate some of his numerous gadgets. This model features a very cool ink-black dial with a wave pattern that decorates newer models in the Seamaster line. 

All of the watches on the list modify the ETA 2892 in some way. Whether that’s giving it a custom rotor or tweaking some of the specifications, each brand ultimately uses the ETA 2892 as a blueprint for its own designs. In this dive watch, Omega added their unique co-axial escapement, which increases accuracy over time. This is just one modification possible to the ETA 2892.  

2. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 (ref. A10370121B1A1, Breitling Caliber B10, based on the 2892-A2)

Breitling is next on the list, a favorite of aviators and divers alike. The famous Breitling Navitimer rules the skies, while the Superocean rules the seas below. The SuperOcean Heritage is a reference to the golden age of diving when many brands were competing to create the best dive watch.

While many of these dive watches were bulky and large, this SuperOcean Heritage model is somewhat modest. The watch is 38mm in diameter with an extra large bezel that curves inward, giving it a unique appearance. 

The ETA 2892 helps to make this watch relatively thin, especially surprising given Breitling’s usually bold and thick watches. The bracelet and case almost seamlessly turn into each other, making this watch slender and very comfortable to wear. Of course, one of the most interesting things about the watch is the bezel that curves inward, which gives the watch a fascinating 3D effect.

3. IWC Spitfire (ref. IW3268-01, Caliber 32110, based on the 2892-A2)

IWC takes to the skies with the Spitfire model, featuring the Caliber 32110. In this movement, IWC uses silicon to bolster the movement’s strength. Silicon is used in watches because of its strength and flexibility. The escape wheel and pallet lever are made of this material, a very nice change because it improves the longevity of the pieces and allows the watch to go long periods without needing service. 

The Spitfire is a classic aviation-inspired watch. Aviation watches emphasize legibility above all else. And with a large, bold number printing, clearly delineated minute tracker, and large sword hands, you’ll have no trouble reading the time, even in the most intense situations. 

4. Hublot Classic Fusion 45 Chronograph Black Magic (ref. 521.CM.1771.RX, Hublot caliber HUB1143, based on the 2892-A2)

Wearing a Hublot means you’re not afraid of what anyone thinks. Hublot has built a reputation for its unapologetically bold timepieces. They immediately grab your attention and aren’t shy about it. This 45mm chronograph is no exception, and the outlandish name matches its aesthetic.

The ceramic case is extremely well-made and scratch-resistant. The futuristic black color coats every part of the watch. The bracelet is equally amazing, all ceramic and brushed and polished to a bright shine. The caseback is transparent, which shows off the HUB1143 behind the window.

Hublot modifies the baseline ETA 2892 with an integrated Dubois-Depraz module that powers the chronograph function. This module is an excellent feature and modification to the always-reliable ETA 2892. The module is added to the base movement to handle whatever additional feature the brand wants to add. 

5. TAG Heuer Autavia GMT (ref. WBE511A.BA0650, Calibre 7, based on the 2892-A2)

The Autavia line from Tag Heuer features many vintage-inspired models that take design cues from successful past models from Tag’s history. This model is a very handsome pilot’s watch that is effortlessly cool. It does all this while having a GMT feature, one of the most practical complications a watch can have.

As a pilot watch, the dial is extremely clean and legible. The printing is bold, large, and generously filled with lume for low-light conditions. 

This is a COSC-certified chronometer and pushes the ETA 2892 to its limit. COSC certification means that the watch has been tested in extreme conditions to ensure that it remains accurate. Any movement that doesn’t survive the process isn’t used for future watches. This is a mark of quality; anyone would be delighted to see this vintage-inspired beauty on their wrist. 

6. Longines Hydroconquest (ref. L3.695.4.53.6, Caliber L619.2, based on the 2892-A2)

With an intimidating name like Hydroconquest, I expect a watch that can conquer the seas and survive anything Mother Nature can throw at it. Longines certainly tries to live up to that expectation with this next offering on our list, a large 44mm stainless steel watch. 

This is a titan of diving, with 300m of water resistance and an expertly engineered case that shields the ETA-based Caliber L619.2. One of my favorite details on the watch is the heavily engraved caseback featuring the winged Longines logo. 

7. Panerai Luminor 1950 (ref. PAM01109, Panerai caliber P.9200, based on the 2892-2)

It’s definitely easy to spot a Panerai on someone’s wrist. The unique case shape and large 47mm case are unmistakable. This model is a little different from other Panerai models because it includes a chronograph function that takes up a majority of the dial. However, the large 12 and 6 hour markers are still present, which is a signature of many Panerai models. 

Inside this Italian classic is Panerai’s version of the ETA 2892, the Caliber P.9200. Panerai adds extra features like an improved balance wheel and increased shock-resistance to really make this watch true to its rich history and association with tough, military watches. 

8. Tudor Heritage Chrono 70330N (ETA Caliber 2892-2054)

Tudor is simply an amazing brand that offers top-quality pieces at unmatched prices. I love the Tudor shield logo because I know I am getting something incredible with this sign of quality. This timepiece is a colorful chronograph with racing-inspired design cues.

The Tudor shield is at 12 o’clock and seamlessly flows with the other hour markers. The chronograph subdials are filled in with a slightly darker color than the dial, giving an interesting contrast between them. 

Tudor added a separate chronograph module to the base ETA 2892. The Dubois-Depraz 2054 is a marvelous addition that really unlocks the capabilities of the base movement. The watch is heavy and thick, so it may take some time to get used to the extra weight on the wrist, but in the price-value category, this modern interpretation of a vintage watch is hard to beat.

9. Oris Divers GMT (ref. 01 668 7639 8454-07 8 24 01PEB, Oris 668, based on the 2892-A2)

As one of the few remaining independent watch brands, Oris holds a unique position in the market. Many of the brands on this list, like Omega and Longines, fall under the umbrella of the Swatch Group. Oris, however, is owned entirely by themselves.

The Oris Divers line is a series of no-nonsense models inspired by watches from the 1960s. This model also includes the popular GMT feature and combines practicality with luxury. Regarding the movement, Oris has been making waves with its movement work.

They even have their own in-house movement that they developed for their premium models. For this Oris 668, extra fine-tuning has made this movement even more accurate and reliable. The true GMT feature works amazingly when combined with the reliability of the base movement. 

10. TAG Heuer Carrera Big Date (ref. WAR5010.BA0723, Calibre 8, based on the 2892-A2) 

Like its namesake, the Carrera Big Date is as exquisite as any luxury sports car. Despite its seemingly wearable size, with a case diameter of 41mm, the watch wears bigger due to its large thickness and lug-to-lug distance. The black dial is gorgeous and features the Big Date complication at 12 o’clock, along with a subdial at 6 o’clock that keeps track of the second time zone.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 8, which is a modified ETA 2892 with an additional GMT function. Combined with the Big Date complication, it makes for an excellent everyday timepiece, especially for those interested in tracking two different time zones.

11. Omega Speedmaster Reduced (ref. 3510.50.00, Omega Caliber 3220, based on the 2892-A2)

While the Speedmaster Reduced is certainly smaller than its regular-sized counterpart, this does not compromise the quality. The Speedmaster Reduced is a smaller 38mm version of the legendary Moonwatch.

The dial has several small but noticeable differences compared to its big brother, like the location of the subdials. The subdials are also stretched to the outer edge of the watch. One of the biggest differences, which truly makes it reduced, is the lug-to-lug width and bracelet.

The Reduced is 44mm lug to lug, down from the normal 47mm of the Moonwatch. This makes it much easier to style with numerous wrist sizes. The bracelet is also slightly thinner at 18mm and tapers to a fine steel finish. Inside the Reduced is the Caliber 3220, Omega’s version of the ETA 2892.

It is automatic compared to the traditionally hand-winding Moonwatch movement. The chronograph function between the Reduced and Moonwatch is mostly because the Reduced chronograph is a module stacked on top of the movement, which changes the dynamics of the watch.

12. Breitling for Bentley Motors Blue (ref. A2536212.C618, Breitling Caliber 25B, based on the 2892-A2)

Breitling and Bentley have collaborated for a long time together to create amazing moto-inspired watches. Every Breitling for Bentley collection watch has a distinctive look, especially with the braided bezel design. 

This watch is quintessential Breitling. It’s a big 48mm watch with the famous Breitling wings logo, a Breitling-tipped chronograph hand, and a ton of information on the dial. The pushers to the side almost seem dwarfed by the large, adventurous watch. The ETA 2892 base movement is wonderfully decorated with Breitling design language and features a 30-second seconds counter as well.

13. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW3282-02, Caliber 32111, based on the 2892-A2)

IWC takes to the skies again with this excellent timepiece. Perfectly sized at 40mm and with the pilot-styled DNA everyone loves, the Mark XX is a surefire hit to everyone who can look at one. Even the name invokes the image of Iron Man, who is known to soar through the skies. 

IWC is a master of aviation watches. Just look at the numerous models in their extensive lineup. The Caliber 32111 is hidden behind the caseback and finished with intricately detailed Côtes de Genève patterns.

14. Longines Legend Diver (ref. L3.774.4.90.2, Caliber L888.5, based on the 2892-A2)

The Legend Diver is a look back at the past and transports you to a time when diving was still a brand new world to explore. As a modern interpretation, the Legend Diver is packed with modern conveniences, like an updated 42mm case size, sapphire crystal, improved inner rotating bezel, rugged stainless steel construction, and of course, enhanced modern movement. 

Underneath this surprisingly thin case is the Caliber L888.5, featuring an extra durable silicone balance wheel. Anyone who gets their hand on this collector’s item is sure to be amazed by just how handsome the whole package looks.

15. Oris Artelier Small Second Date (ref. 01 623 7582 4074-07 5 21 71FC, Oris 623, based on the 2892-A2)

Last but not least is the elegant Oris Artelier Small Seconds Date. The word “Artelier” brings up nostalgic images of old-school watchmaking in small, private workshops. Indeed, this model is carefully finished and shined to perfection. The hour markers are sharp like daggers and are polished to a mirror finish. 

The hands, too, look sharp and crisp. The dial is layered with two circles on top of each other, with the small seconds sub dial prominently featured at the 6 o’clock position. I love how the shiny shades of black look stacked on top of each other.

The date window is like a hidden surprise at the bottom as well, like a little window that provides extremely useful information to viewers. Of course, Oris’s skill at making movements is on display here with the excellent Oris 623.

The flash of red on the movement, as seen through the transparent caseback, is a welcome surprise. The many features of this movement, like the extra precise time accuracy and stop-second, make this an excellent and elegant timepiece.

Conclusion

As you can now see, the ETA 2892 can take many forms. Brands take this wonderful movement and decorate it to their liking. Sometimes they can add extra features to it, like a chronograph movement. Other times, they can innovate the materials used inside of it or customize how the rotor looks. Regardless of the changes, the same amazing, high-quality Swiss mechanical movement beats at the heart of every one of these watches! 

It’s about this time of year for those of us in the Midwest of the United States that Winter seems to really drag. The sunless days and subzero temps will have you “California Dreamin” like the Mama’s and the Papa’s. What if you could escape the cold gray tundra for the golden coasts of California with a glance of your wrist?

The ever-controversial mix mash of Arabic and Roman numerals may not be enough to physically transport you to a warmer climate. But its unique dial layout may be able to break up the monotony of Winter just the same.

History of California Dials

The history of the California dial is a lot more interesting than what you expect when looking at the quirky Arabic and Roman numeral combo. The 1930s first introduced the dial design as we know it, commonly referred to as the “Error Proof” or “High Visibility” dial.

First utilized by Rolex, the dial layout would become synonymous with Italian tool watchmaker Panerai, a brand you will see throughout this article. What makes this history interesting is less about the actual origin of the dial and more about why we now refer to it as a “California” dial.

Fast forward from the 1930s to the 1980s, and the world of watch collecting began picking up steam. Collectors were drawn to the classic watches of the 1930s-1950s. What separates the 1980s from the current state of vintage watch collecting is our current obsession with originality.

Unpolished cases, patina, and refinished dials were not driving the market prices like they do today. The name of the game in the 1980s was having the most sought-after dial, whether it was original or not. One aspect that does carry through with vintage watch collecting today is the obsession with quirky details. One of these coveted details was that of the “Error Proof” dial.

Although many watch dial refinishers were renowned for their expertise in recreating these dials, Kirk Rich Dial Co became synonymous with the style. So synonymous, in fact, that the California dial nickname is based on the location of their facility in, you guessed it, California. You can think of them as the Bamford Watch Company of their day.

Should You Buy a California Dial?

Despite having a unique origin story and appearance, the California dial is not for everyone.  Although having a self-confessed soft spot for vintage recreations, I recently warmed up to the uniqueness of the California dial. Should you buy a watch with a California dial? That’s going to be completely up to you! 

There are some great options, 10 of which we will look at in this article, but if you instinctually give these watches a confused look, you’re not alone. If you are not repulsed by the dial, you need to give one of these watches a try! They’re different and unintentionally fun in a no-nonsense kind of way. Let’s take a look at 10 of the best watches with California dials.

The Best Watches With California Dials

1. Rolex Viceroy Radium (ref. 3116)

There is no better place to begin than with Rolex. The luxury Swiss brand is credited with trademarking the “Error Proof”, later nicknamed “California’ dial in 1941. The first known references from the brand to feature the unique dial layout were released during World War II. One of the most revered models is that of the Viceroy Radium, ref. 3116.

These models come in a very modest 31mm case in various metals. The case features the elongated shape of the later released “bubble back’ automatic models, despite being powered by a manually winding movement. This model was available in several dial configurations, the rarest of which being the error-proof. 

Due to the rarity of original error-proof dials, this style of Rolex was commonly the victim of the previously mentioned redial from the likes of Kirk Rich Dial Co or other prominent refinishers of the time. Due to the rarity of the model, pricing this model can be difficult. My advice, if you see one, and can afford it, just get it!

2. Panerai Radiomir 1936 (ref. PAM00249)

Despite not owning the California dial patent, Panerai is synonymous with its current utilization. This list will be admittedly Panerai heavy, but given the brand’s history and current lineup, there was no other way around this. If you like the look of vintage military-inspired watches with a clean aesthetic and modern sizing, Panerai is the brand for you.

Leading the charge from Panerai will be the Radiomir 1936, ref. PAM00249. The Radiomir style features distinct wire lugs, sporting a very Panerai 47mm stainless steel case and manually-winding movement. The dial features a clean black dial and California dial and handset in an aged radium color. This 1936-piece limited edition was originally released in 2006. 

Despite the 1936 namesake on this watch, there is some debate whether this watch originally featured a California-style dial at this time due to the Rolex Patent for the design not occurring until 1941. Regardless of the controversy, this may be the cleanest execution of this dial layout and well worth the roughly $9000-$10000 price they can be purchased for.

3. Tudor Prince Date-Day California Dial (ref. 76200)

Rolex is not the only Hans Wilsdorf founded company to produce a California dial throughout the years. Tudor has been producing similarly designed watches at more affordable prices to their older brother since their original release in 1946 (20 years after Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark back in 1926).

Although many of their designs are heavily inspired by the folks at Rolex, they usually have some slight variances to keep things interesting. This is definitely the case with one of their most popular utilizations of the California dial.

The Tudor Prince Date-Day California dial, ref. 76200, is reminiscent of a few different Rolex models. The functionality and name are heavily inspired by the Rolex Day-Date. The Dial pulls from the Viceroy model we mentioned earlier while having a cleaner and sportier appearance with the Mercedes handset.

This watch is powered by an off-the-shelf ETA 2834-2 movement in true Tudor spirit. If you are looking for a watch that embodies the true purpose of Tudor, as seen by Hans Wilsdorf, the Tudor Prince Date Day with California dial for roughly $3000-$5000 is a great option to consider.

4. Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days 47mm (ref. PAM00448)

Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: a 47mm stainless steel case Panerai Radiomir with a manual winding movement and a clean California dial on a black dial. Without a doubt, Panerai is not a brand known for producing wild designs aimed at wowing us year after year.

If you think Rolex is boring and moves at a glacial speed, you haven’t seen anything yet. Like all great collector items, the devil is in the details, and this next model from Panerai is no different.

The Panerai Radiomir California 3-day, ref. PAM00448, is cosmetically very similar to the other Panerai watches on this list. However, what separates this watch from the pack is on the inside. The P.3000 movement by Panerai features a 3-day power reserve to add functionality to the simple design.

The movement is beautifully finished to match the aesthetic to the functionality that the added power reserve provides. If you are looking for the timeless Panerai design with a beautiful and functional movement to match, the PAM00448 from Panerai for $7500-$8500 is a great watch to consider.

5. Nomos Glashütte Club Campus

If you love the idea of a California dial but can’t quite get behind the idea of a vintage-inspired timepiece, Nomos Glashütte has your back. Nomos is a relatively new brand, dating back to 1990, but they have made a tremendous impact since their introduction.

Known best for their modern take on the Bauhaus design, Nomos has taken the California dial and modernized it in a way only Nomos can do. The Nomos Club Campus is the entry point into the brand. They have several color iterations, case sizes, and material options to allow you to really pick the watch that fits your needs and personal style.

My favorite feature of this watch is its unique take on a California dial by switching the orientation of Arabic and Roman numerals from the traditional options available. It is choices like this that give Nomos their fun identity and help differentiate them from other brands available today. Starting at $1500, the Nomos Club Campus is some of the most fun you can have in this hobby, whether you want a California dial or not.

6. Panerai Radiomir California 47mm (ref. PAM00931)

As mentioned earlier, Panerai is going to be featured a few times on this list. If you like what Panerai did with the PAM00448 but wish they leaned even heavier into the vintage aesthetic, this watch might be exactly what you were looking for. The Panerai Radiomir California, ref. PAM00931, shares many similarities with the previously mentioned PAM00448.

The 47mm stainless steel case, wire lugs, and P.3000 Hand winding movement with a 3-day power reserve are consistent between these two models. Even the simple, clean layout and California dial remain virtually identical between the two models. The difference here is in the color of the dial and the feeling it evokes. 

While the PAM00448 features a traditional black dial, the PAM00931 sports a honey-colored fume dial that gives the appearance of a dial that has been exposed to the elements for decades.

The watches are very similar, but the feeling they evoke is completely different. If you are looking to spend roughly $6000-$7000 on a California dial watch and want something that leans heavily into vintage inspiration, this watch might be for you.

7. RPaige “Barrage”

There is no shortage of Micro or Independent brands on the market today for watch enthusiasts. Several of these brands were conceived by savvy entrepreneurs eager to capitalize on the growing market. Some of these brands were started by passionate enthusiasts.

However, few of these brands were created by as passionate enthusiasts as Richard Paige. Richard Paige is a 4^th generation watchmaker and founder of Timezone.com. Yes, the watch forum that changed the way enthusiasts engage with one another. 

The RPaige Barrage is a limited edition of 50 watches featuring a 44mm stainless steel case and Panerai-inspired black dial with aged radium California dial. What separates these watches from others in the market is their use of repurposed pocket watch movements housed with new cases and dials. This model features either a 15 or 17-jewel Waltham or Elgin American pocket watch movement.

For anyone lucky enough to have seen one of these movements in person, the amount of finishing and detail on these antique rivals that of almost any current Swiss movement in production today. Coming in at a price of $2400, the RPaige Barrage is a timeless design with a unique value proposition that you simply can’t get from the big boys in this space.

8. Panerai Luminor California 8 Days (ref. PAM00779)

I know, another Panerai! Hear me out; this one is completely different! As much as I love the vintage appeal of the Panerai Radiomir, this next model utilizes the more modern Luminor case and is my favorite of the bunch. The Panerai Luminor California 8-day, ref. PAM00779 features a hefty 44mm case size made of DLC-coated titanium to help with the everyday wearability of this piece.

The Luminor case shape is more closely associated with Panerai and helps to give the watch a robust and masculine look. This watch features the enhanced P.5000 hand-wound mechanical movement providing an impressive 8-day power reserve.

The classic black dial and aged radium California dial and handset provide a familiar vintage aesthetic to help offset the modernity of the case. If you are looking for a modern interpretation of a California dial from the brand most synonymous with the look, the PAM00779 Luminor for roughly $8500 is a great option to consider.

9. Ralf Tech Academie California Bronze

The worlds of professional diving and watchmaking are often intertwined. You’d be hard-pressed to find a watch enthusiast who doesn’t appreciate the functionality of a good dive watch, regardless of whether or not they would ever use it to its full potential. Ralf Tech is a great example of this intertwining. 

Originally founded in 1996, producing diving equipment for professionals, Ralf Tech began to focus much of its attention on watchmaking in 2003, ultimately leading to this being their sole product line in 2008. Since then, Ralf Tech has been bringing some of the most robust watches available, even venturing beyond the comforts of dive watches.

The Ralf Tech Acadamie is a 41mm case manufactured out of bronze. This unique case material will age over time and give your timepiece a unique appearance mere months after removing the stickers. This look is not for everyone, but given the vintage aesthetic of the California dial and gilt lettering with aged radium-colored lume, this watch will look more at home once the shine dulls a little bit. 

The Academie range is powered by an automatic mechanical movement and comes paired with a vintage-styled leather strap. If you are looking for a new California dial watch that will age with you, the Ralf Tech Academie California in bronze for roughly $2400 is a watch you should strongly consider.

10. Serica 4512 California

Serica is a Microbrand that has taken the watch world by storm. Since its inception in 2019, Serica watches have been recognized for their incredible quality, unique designs, and affordable pricing. In many ways, these three features are the blueprint that any Microbrand should follow if they are aiming to be successful. Even with all 3 of these qualities, very few brands will skyrocket as quickly as Serica.

The Serica 4512 with a California dial features a very wearable 38mm stainless steel case with a straight-end link Bonklip bracelet. The lacquered black dial and California dial bypass the commonly used aged luminova for a crisp white giving the appearance of a watch from the 1950s that found a way to evade aging for the last 70 years. 

The broad arrow hand is reminiscent of those found on early Omega Speedmasters while maintaining their own identity. The watch is powered by the STP1-11 Swiss automatic movement, and it’s priced at a very reasonable $615. If you are looking for a quality Microbrand offering a unique design for a fraction of the price of others on this list, the Serica 4512 California is the route I would go.

Conclusion

There you have it, 10 of the best watches to feature a California dial. The California dial will not appeal to everyone, and that’s OK. Our brains spend a tremendous amount of energy trying to put things into defined categories. Safe or dangerous, boy or girl, Arabic or Roman numerals.

These categories can serve us well at times while simultaneously limiting our ability to see in between the lines. If Arabic and Roman numerals can coexist on a watch dial, perhaps there is a world where other categories don’t have to be as set as we previously believed. 

There was a time when even the biggest fan of California dials had to do a double-take. Something that falls outside our defined categories can be hard to accept at first, but once you look at it for what it is, the uniqueness is the appeal. After all, a watch dial is just a dial; it doesn’t have to look like all the others to tell the time.

Happy Watch Hunting!

Watches can come in a wonderful kaleidoscope of different colors. Picture this: an endless sea of magnificent blues, intense reds, vibrant greens, brilliant yellows, and more. However, for those interested in stepping away from these colors and choosing a warmer, earthy hue, brown is the name of the game. 

Brown is the color of chocolate and coffee, a match truly made in heaven. Imagine the enticing smell of freshly baked, gooey chocolate chip cookies from the oven with a steaming cup of espresso. Dream about fluffy cinnamon buns, or experience the rugged, earthy smells of the wooded forest. 

Brown watches are not really the first thing that comes to mind when picking out another watch to add to the collection. You can never go wrong with a classic black or blue dial. However, brown watches are on the rise, and it’s becoming increasingly common to see brands offering their pieces with sun-kissed brown dials. Pour yourself a cup of your favorite hot chocolate as we learn more about brown dial watches and the joy they can bring.

About Brown Dial Watches

The history of brown dial watches starts way back with vintage sports watches. Think of beloved brands like Rolex and Omega. As the years passed and watches were exposed to sunlight, the dials started discoloring. The chemical reaction between the sunlight and dial eventually resulted in what we call a “tropical dial.”

Presumably named for the tropics, where sunlight is abundant, these chocolate-colored dials are now highly prized by enthusiasts and collectors alike. The attractive patina on the watch greatly increases its value and adds a sprinkle of uniqueness. 

Many watches nowadays will try to evoke memories of these charming timepieces with carefully painted dials and vintage-inspired looks. Indeed, brown dials are becoming more and more desirable, as we will see with the luxurious list of offerings that we will see below! 

Should You Buy a Brown Dial Watch?

Brown dial watches will always have a special place in the collection, so the answer is yes, most definitely! Brown is a great contrast to the usual black and blues in the watch box. This color will be a surefire match for anyone looking to add a bit of excitement to their watch rotation. 

Brown is subtle enough to match almost any outfit and bold enough to generate some interest. Whether in a formal office setting or taking a dip by the pool, brown dials just work. Of course, brown is at home when the world is transitioning into autumn.

Brown just seems to fit in when everyone is scrambling to find the perfect Halloween costume, sipping on pumpkin spice lattes, and watching the leaves change color. This versatile color can accompany you in any situation. Luckily, we’ve assembled a sublime list to help you choose your next brown dial watch.

The Best Brown Dial Watches

Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B146)

Vacheron Constantin is one of the most premium watchmakers on the planet. Their very name drips with grace and exclusivity. Being able to hold and handle one of these astounding timepieces is a privilege and experience. Vacheron Constantin brought the Overseas collection back in 2016, and every year they have added more and more amazing watches to it.

The Overseas models are designed to be the perfect daily companion. One of the most convenient features of this watch is the interchangeable bracelet and strap system. This innovation makes it extremely easy to customize the look and feel of the watch. The layout is immaculate and features an ever-useful date window at the 3 o’clock position.

Every feature of this watch is finished with extreme attention to detail. The hour markers shine like mirrors and are razor cut to perfection. Turning over the Overseas immediately reveals the golden rotor, with sharp points radiating from the middle like sun rays. Behind the rotor is the in-house caliber 5100, beating away at 28,800vph and offering 60 hours of power reserve. 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R

First came Vacheron Constantin, and now comes Patek Philippe. Together, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin form the “Big Three” or “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking. These heavyweights represent the absolute best that watchmaking has to offer. They are the quintessential watchmakers that every brand should look to for inspiration.

This brown Aquanaut is just one of the many luxurious timepieces that come from these brands. The unique rounded octagon shape caused a huge stir in the watch world when it was released, and it still leaves current admirers breathless. Golden, applied hour markers dot the edge of the watch, and a mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand makes its rotation around the watch.

The Aquanaut series bracelet can be swapped for numerous attractive options as well. Underneath the dial exposes the self-winding caliber 26‑330 S C, a true marvel in design and function. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01)

The last of the “Big Three,” Audemars Piguet, lives up to its name with this offering from the popular Royal Oak collection. The 1972 release of the first watches in this collection changed how modern watches would be designed. They were sleek, exciting, and an absolute sensation. This Royal Oak has many of the features that buyers have come to expect: incredible quality, luxury status, and otherworldly levels of detail. 

This is undoubtedly a large 42mm watch with large pushers and a unique case shape. The signature octagonal bezel is lined with perfectly placed screws, creating a very pleasing continuity. This particular model comes on a gorgeous alligator strap that matches the deep brown of the dial.

Audemars Piguet describes the dial as “Mega Tapisserie,” with a waffle pattern that’s as delicious as it looks. Underneath this sweet treat is the caliber 3126/3840 self-winding movement, with 50 hours of power reserve. 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (ref. 215.62.40.20.13.001)

The first of 3 Omega watches on this list is the 39.55mm Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean in a velvety hazel color. The Planet Ocean series represents Omega’s unique history with ocean-inspired watches. 

Every element of this watch blends together in a wonderful harmony. The hazel dial is a backdrop for the golden hands and white hour markers. The equally dark bezel contrasts with the gold lettering and pushers. Even the ceramic case is brown. This watch is simply a masterclass in pleasing design elements. 

Omega’s famed co-axial escapement makes its appearance in this watch as well. With this innovation, mechanical accuracy is increased even further. The Omega caliber 8800 automatic movement powers this chocolate delight. Resistant to magnetism, finished expertly, and a certified chronometer; this movement can do it all. 

Grand Seiko SBGR311

Grand Seiko is the Japanese answer to the luxury Swiss watchmaking industry. Since its inception, Grand Seiko has made revolutionary strides in watchmaking, such as with the invention of the spring drive movement. Known for absolutely breathtaking designs, Grand Seiko has created one of its most amazing pieces yet with the SBGR311. 

What immediately catches the eye is the swirling explosion of shapes on the dial. Every single shape is detailed with small lettering inside. This whirlpool of chocolate is simply hypnotic to look at. I could get lost in the dial and feel an inexplicable urge to satisfy my sweet tooth. 

Inside this delicious morsel is the caliber 9S65 automatic movement, which is lightweight and extremely accurate. Zaratsu polishing makes every aspect of this watch shine with a mirror finish. A sapphire caseback shows both the movement and the Grand Seiko lion logo, roaring with life. This watch is simply divine.

Rolex Day-Date 40 Chocolate Dial (ref. 228235)

To many people, Rolex will always be the ultimate luxury brand. Rolex is always in huge demand, and any new release by them is immediately snatched up by the hungry masses. This attractive colorway of the famous Day-Date model instantly demands attention with its absolutely beautiful and warm hues. 

The exclusive Rolex Everose case glows in the light and perfectly contrasts the rich dial. The fluted bezel is a signature Rolex detail, as is the cyclops magnifier at the 3 o’clock position. At 40mm, this watch is larger than more traditional Day-Date models, but nearly any wrist can accommodate this piece. And with the extraordinary “President” bracelet wrapped around the wrist, any lucky wearer will find themselves with a truly magnificent watch. 

Glashütte Original Sixties Brown (ref. 39-52-10-02-01)

One look at this German watch makes you want to steal another look. You’ll get lost in the unique and elaborate imprinted dial and want more. Glashütte Original will be able to satisfy your desire for more with a watch that pays tribute to the 1960s. The soft, rounded case is extremely comfortable to wear. The 39mm case is reserved and appropriate for any wrist.

Inside the polished steel case is the caliber 39-52. The numbers on the dial look like carefully etched Arabic numerals, something not seen in other watches. This watch is strictly time-only, with no other complication in sight. The symmetry and visual appeal are unmatched with Glashütte Original’s stunning timepiece. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition (ref. 5052 1146 E52A)

Blancpain is the oldest watch brand that still exists to this day. Throughout the centuries, Blancpain has perfected the art of watchmaking and truly takes it to another level. The Fifty Fathoms line is Blancpain’s signature dive watch collection, started in the golden age of diving and marine exploration in the early 1950s. 

This limited edition model in the Fifty Fathoms line is fascinating and complicated. The desert colorway is light and attractive. The dial gleams in the light and sweeps away like sand in the wind. A khaki-colored strap matches the sandy dial. A 43mm case houses the caliber 1315DD, with an enormous 120 power reserve. With so much power on the wrist, this watch is as hardy as the desert sun. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385

Zenith reaches its highest point with the Chronomaster Revival A385. This model breathes life into classic models of Zenith’s past. As a modern interpretation of the original A385 from 1969, this revival has much to live up to. With numerous modern upgrades, like the ladder-style bracelet and refined movement, this watch takes the old and catapults it into the future.

Zenith is known for making avant-garde movements and housed inside the chunky 37mm tonneau-shaped case is the legendary El Primero automatic movement. Zenith prominently displays the movement’s specifications on its website, and for good reason. This movement is revered in the watchmaking industry for its gorgeous finishing, unrivaled accuracy, and innovative design. The movement works at 36,000vph and offers a 50-hour power reserve. 

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Brown Dial (ref. 311.32.42.30.13.001)

The Moonwatch is one of the most beloved in the watch industry. Its story has been told countless times and will forever be tied to Omega’s legendary association with space and the galaxy. An Omega Speedmaster can truly do it all and is a serious contender for a one-watch-only collection. 

The famous Speedmaster DNA that everyone is familiar with is in this brown dial version. The symmetrical dial, lume pips at 12 o’clock, tachymeter scale, and large pushers are all here. A matching brown leather strap comes with this watch, but Speedmasters are well-known for being able to look good on almost anything.

At 42mm, the watch is large but sits very comfortably on the wrist thanks to the watch’s soft contours. Like other iconic Speedmasters, the famous Omega caliber 1863 powers this watch. It is visible behind the transparent sapphire caseback. 

Oris Aquis Date Brown Dial (ref. 01 733 7730 4152-07 5 24 12EB)

As one of the few privately owned watch companies, Oris maintains a unique position in the market. Instead of answering to a larger authority regarding their designs and decision-making, they answer solely to themselves. The Aquis is a series of no-nonsense dive watches that offer impeccable performance and brilliant design. 

This mono-brown variant of these serious divers is large, bold, and entirely functional. Generous lume, the large 43.5mm case size, and the long stick hour markers make viewing this watch under the water a breeze. The rotating dive bezel is crisp, satisfying, and locks into place. A gorgeous chocolate-colored strap matches the mono-brown dial. Finally, the Oris 733 automatic movement is found in this beauty and many other watches in Oris’s lineup. 

Longines Legend Diver (ref. L3.774.4.60.2)

Relive an era of legendary watchmaking with this heritage dive watch from the esteemed brand Longines. The extremely famous Longines logo, a winged hourglass, is stamped at the top of this Legend Diver. Any timepiece with the winged hourglass symbol is worthy of inclusion in the Longines lineup.

The Legend Diver is ruggedly handsome and retains the original super compressor design. This is evident by the two prominent pushers on the side of the case, which control the inner rotating bezel. This mechanism also increases the water resistance of this dive watch.

This is an exciting feature that sets this watch apart from others. This big, 42mm daring watch is powered by the Longines exclusive L888 automatic movement. A large 72-hour power reserve means this diving legend will be running for long periods. 

Seiko Presage SRPF43

I stick by the adage that every collection needs a Seiko. Seiko has such a huge variety of pieces in its collection that it’s hard to find something that someone won’t like. The Presage line from Seiko combines Japanese artistry and cutting-edge mechanical capabilities. This model is one of the many “Cocktail Time” watches, taking inspiration from various drinks in Japan. These affordable, classy dress watches are undoubtedly worth taking a closer look.

This dial is actually inspired by a specially roasted tea named Hojicha. Compared to other teas, this tea produces a light golden color when roasted. This is reflected on the dressy dial, which is a rich brown and yellow gradient. This 38.5mm watch is handsome enough to fit any casual or formal situation. On the caseback is an engraving with the serial number of this limited edition collection.

The entry-level Seiko 4R35 automatic movement powers the watch, generating 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound or “roasted.” Indeed, looking at the toasty brown dial, I can only think of wanting to take a sip! 

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition (ref. 128669)

Montblanc has made quite a name for itself in recent years. The renowned pen company has taken serious steps to make it a contender in the often cutthroat luxury watch market. Montblanc’s integration with Minerva, a highly respected watch movement manufacturer, cemented Montblanc’s future as a brand that makes more than just pens.

This stunning perpetual calendar is one of the best examples of this new direction. This limited edition version of the Heritage Perpetual Calendar could easily be double its asking price. Perpetual calendars are the pinnacle of fine watchmaking, requiring immense care and careful attention to detail to assemble.

This heritage model echoes earlier Minerva model watches. This elegant, 40mm perpetual calendar features a gorgeous caramel-colored dial and displays an encyclopedia of knowledge on its many subdials. Housed inside the 18K pink gold case is the caliber MB 29.22, beating away at 28.800vph and offering a 48-hour power reserve.

This dedicated perpetual calendar module can be viewed through the sapphire caseback, treating the eyes with a beautifully applied Côtes de Genève pattern. The snow-capped Mont Blanc mountain is displayed proudly at the top of the watch, a sign of Montblanc’s dedication to quality. 

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Big Date (ref. 2100-0402)

Exclusivity is the name of the game for H. Moser & Cie. Produced in very limited quantities, each mechanical marvel from the workshops of H. Moser & Cie is lovingly handcrafted and painstakingly examined for quality. This Venturer model is a 50-piece limited edition production from a brand that already makes very few watches a year anyway, which gives away just how special this watch is. 

This timepiece is an appropriate 41.5mm in case size, and it seems even bigger with the watch’s design choices. The elegant H. Moser & Cie logo is spelled out in cursive at the top of the dial, but the most exciting elements of the watch are the big date window and the large cutout for the seconds at the 6 o’clock position. 

These huge features make the watch extremely bold to look at and highly legible. Flipping the piece on its back reveals a stunning manual-winding movement from H. Moser & Cie, with an enormous 7-day power reserve and small power reserve complication. 

Omega Constellation Brown Dial (ref. 123.10.38.21.10.001)

Of the many offerings in the vast Omega catalog, the Constellation series is among the most beautiful. The Constellation series gets its name from the gorgeous, deep engraving of an observatory on the caseback viewing the stars. This almost romantic imagery invokes a sense of wonder and discovery.

Indeed, this copper-brown Omega Constellation is a wonder to behold. The sharply finished hour markers and hands reflect like the stars in the night sky. At the 6 o’clock position is a silver star that provides a wonderful point of dial symmetry. 

The 38mm watch wears small due to its case shape and perfectly slips under any cuff. The craftsmanship is top-notch, and this dressy piece, in particular, is on an adjustable steel bracelet. Instead of the classic observatory engraving on the back, a sapphire crystal caseback shows off the Omega Co-Axial caliber 8500 in all of its glory. 

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4356-07 5 20 45)

The Divers Sixty-Five line is like taking a time machine back to the retro days of Beatlemania and bell-bottom jeans. This watch takes various elements of vintage styles from this era and blends them together like a smoothie. The burnt orange and brown dial is reminiscent of a swirling cup of coffee.

Attractive round hour markers dot the outer edges of the dial. The 40mm dial is larger than you might find in a vintage diver, but this modern fit looks great on any wrist. The Divers Sixty-Five is slim thanks to its wonderful tapering and doesn’t sit tall on the wrist.

At the heart of this vintage blend is the Oris 733 movement, based on the workhorse Sellita SW200-1. Finally, with 100 meters of water resistance, this watch will be more than capable of surviving nearly any aquatic situation.  

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 38 (ref. U4131012/Q600-725P) 

Breitling is known for being big and bold, but this Transocean Chronograph shows that Breitling can tap into its reserved side and offer something truly special. The Transocean series was recently revived by Breitling and is now one of their premier watch lines.

The name takes its inspiration from the golden days of aviation when advancements in aviation technology made flying across the ocean possible. It’s easy to see the pilot influences on this watch. The watch is very functional, with a chronograph, tachymeter, and a host of other features that appeal to the pilot in all of us.

The 38mm case size seems conservative for Breitling’s standards, but this makes it that much easier to wear on the wrist. It sits tall and demands presence. The pleasing golden bezel contrasts the dark brown dial and leather strap. The Transocean is back and better than ever, it seems.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto (ref. H38735501)

Hamilton, the Swiss brand that combines masculine, All-American designs with precision Swiss engineering, offers this mesmerizing timepiece from their American Classic collection. The smoky brown dial of this vintage-inspired watch brings to mind an old-world type of cool. The radiant dial smoothly transitions to a light brown in the center.

Simple stick hour markers and hands clearly display the time. The date complication has its own golden window at the 6 o’clock position, giving some visual interest to the piece. Despite the vintage inspirations, this is definitely a modern timepiece. The sizable 42mm case size makes it stand out on the wrist. The lug width is also quite wide, at 22mm.

The movement is also created to modern standards. The powerful ETA 2892-A2 beats away inside the case and offers a respectable 42 hours of power reserve. Hamilton’s history is as rich as the smoky chocolate dial on this watch’s blend of vintage and modern. 

Farer Eldridge Chronograph

Among the titans in watchmaking on this list, like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe, it would be hard for a newer brand like Farer to stand out. Founded in 2015, Farer is the newest watch brand on the list. This means they are up against stiff competition with much richer and more celebrated stories than them.

However, Farer’s Eldridge Chronograph can certainly appeal to many people with its bold flashes of color and symmetrical design. Farer forgoes many traditional watchmaking designs and creates its own unique pieces. Browsing their catalog reveals unique tropical colors, chunky hour markers, fun designs, and more.

This 39mm Eldridge Chronograph combines chocolate brown and turquoise blue. The blue chronograph hand is a stark contrast to the brown dial. Inside the watch is the reliable ETA 2894-2 movement, a sign of quality and care. 

One of the most delightful features of this design is the expertly placed date window. Rather than sacrifice symmetry by setting the date window at somewhere like the 3 o’clock position, it is at the 6 o’clock position instead. This small but appreciated change is just one of many details on this fine watch. 

Conclusion

Brown dial watches are certainly an interesting piece to add to the collection. The roasted coffee color is warm and inviting. They add an element of interest to a collection and will stand out on any wrist. Even the most exclusive brands are starting to see why brown is the color that is trending at the moment. Admire the wonderful pieces we have assembled for you today, and grab a bite of chocolate as well! 

 

A dress watch is an essential piece of any gentleman’s wardrobe, adding a touch of sophistication and elegance to any formal or semi-formal outfit. However, finding a high-quality dress watch that doesn’t break the bank can be a daunting task. 

Fortunately, many excellent dress watches are available for under $5,000 and offer a perfect combination of style, craftsmanship, and affordability. In this article, we will highlight these timepieces’ unique features, performance, and value for money at various budget levels within the price cap. 

Whether you’re looking for a classic timepiece for a wedding, important business meetings, or a fancy gala, we’ve got you covered. So, let’s take a closer look at some of the best dress watches on the market today for the money. 

What Is a Dress Watch?

A dress watch is a type of wristwatch designed to be worn on formal or semi-formal occasions. It is characterized by its elegant and understated design, intended to complement a gentleman’s outfit without overpowering it.

Typically, dress watches feature a thin, streamlined case, a simple, uncluttered dial, and a leather strap or metal bracelet. Those more adventurous might pair a suit with a dive watch and its colorful rubber strap and tie it in with the color of their pocket square. However, keeping it traditional might be the safer option for truly formal situations.

What to Look For in Dress Watches Under $5000?

1. Case Material and Size: The case material and size are important factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch. Stainless steel and gold are common materials for dress watches, but you may also find watches made of titanium or other metals. The case size is also important, as it can impact the watch’s overall look and feel. A smaller case size can look more traditional and elegant, while a larger one can provide a more modern and bolder look.
2. Strap Option: The type of strap you choose can also impact the overall look and feel of the dress watch. Leather straps are a classic option that can give a dressy and sophisticated look, while metal bracelets can provide a more refined and luxurious feel.
3. Movement and Complications: As we noted above, mechanical movements can offer a more traditional and luxurious feel. Complications, such as moon phases, chronographs, or date displays, can add functionality and visual interest to the watch.
4. Brand and Design: The brand and design of the dress watch can also be an important factor to consider. Look for reputable brands that have a strong history of producing high-quality watches. Choose a design that reflects your personal style and complements your wardrobe.
5. Value for Money: Finally, consider the value for money when purchasing a dress watch. Look for a timepiece that offers a good balance between price, quality, and style. Consider buying from a reputable retailer and look for watches with a warranty to ensure you get a quality product.

The Best Dress Watches Under $5000

1. GRAND SEIKO SBGW231G

Grand Seiko delivers an instant classic. The stainless steel case of this timepiece features a mirrored finish. Achieving this exquisite look across the entire case required detailed, expert artisan polishing work. Everything about this watch has been carefully handcrafted, and every detail is in-house, down to the lubricant used for the internal mechanisms. 

Grand Seiko described the dial color as autumn light. To my eye, it’s reminiscent of a vintage ivory piano key. The hands and indexes are diamond cut and therefore reflect the light from every angle. The dial features a minimalist design with three hands and no date. The case measures 37.3mm and sits at 11.6mm on the wrist.

The case back is open, showcasing their in-house caliber 9S64 movement with its 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is paired with a black crocodile leather strap that is remarkably supple, feeling as if it’s already been broken in. This timepiece is an excellent choice for both men and women. 

Price: $4,300

2. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE MODEL CRWSTA0041

If you’re looking for that Cartier Tank Louise look at a reasonable price, this timepiece is it. The watch features Cartier’s traditional rectangular case in stainless steel. It measures 33.7mm x 25.5mm and sits at 6.60mm on the wrist. 

It’s a simple, clean silver dial with black Roman numerals, offset by sharp blue sword hands and a blue crown. It’s powered by a high-autonomy quartz movement, which provides a huge battery life of up to eight years. All of this is paired with a grained black calfskin strap and steel Ardillon buckle.

Some have noted that the strap on this watch is small, even for a modest man’s sized wrist. This type of watch was first introduced in the ‘70s to counter the Japanese quartz craze that put many traditional Swiss timepiece manufacturers out of business.

The silverling from that period was a new market of fine-looking watches, sans the complex in-house mechanical movements and delivered to the public at a much lower price point. This watch continues in that tradition. As previously addressed in this article, while most will select a dress watch with a mechanical movement, this is an excellent example of a watch that runs counter to that rule. 

Price: $2,930

3.  IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC IW356501

There’s just something lovely about this dress watch. While it’s sized for men, some women are wearing larger watches these days, and it could therefore be untraditionally unisex. The stainless steel case has a mirrored finish. The case is sized at 40mm and sits low on the wrist at 9.2mm.

This is a classic three-hand watch with silver hands and raised roman numerals. The timepiece is paired nicely with a black alligator leather strap, although IWC offers many different strap colors and options for this model. It features an automatic caliber 35111 movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. This watch is classic and sophisticated and would make a nice addition to any watch collection for those who still dress up regularly for work or special occasions. 

Price: $5,050

4. ZENITH ELITE CLASSIC 03.3100.670/02.C922

The dial of the Zenith Elite Classic is a beautiful blue sunray-patterned finish with a minimalist design. It’s encased in stainless steel and measures 40.5mm. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands. There is a small date window at the 3 o’clock position, adding to the functionality of the watch. 

The blue alligator leather strap is a nice touch of color. At the heart of the timepiece is the Elite 670 automatic movement, which is produced in-house by Zenith. This high-quality movement boasts a power reserve of up to 50 hours.

Price: $6,000

5. NOMOS ORION 38 387

The Nomos Orion 38 387 is a sophisticated and stylish dress watch that embodies the German brand’s commitment to minimalist design and impeccable craftsmanship. This timepiece features a round stainless steel case that measures 38mm in diameter and is only 7.9mm thick, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer a sleek and understated watch.

The white silver-plated dial of the Nomos Orion 38 387 is a marvel of simplicity, with only hour markers, slim baton hands, and a small second sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position. The gold markers are nicely accented by blue hands. 

Powering the Nomos Orion 38 is the in-house Alpha movement, which is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. This manual-winding movement features 17 jewels and a power reserve of up to 43 hours. 

Price: $2,260

6. TUDOR 1926 M91650-0005

Some think of Tudor as the baby brother of Rolex, but it’s really come into its own. The Tudor 1926 is perhaps their most underrated model. The design of the 1926 is classy and elegant with its opaline dial, subtle waffle pattern, and blue hour markers and hands. There’s a date display at the 3 o’clock position. 

It’s a 41mm stainless steel case that’s handsomely paired with a stainless steel seven-row, tapered bracelet. This allows the timepiece to straddle the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, though with its graceful design; I’d say it’s more on the dressy side of things. The timepiece is powered by a caliber T601 with a 38-hour power reserve. 

Price: $2,100

7. ORIS RECTANGULAR 01 561 7783 4063-07 5 19 16

The Oris Rectangular line of unisex watches is inspired by the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. They are designed to appeal to those who appreciate classic and timeless styles. This iteration features some new colors and size changes.

The watch is more dress casual to my eye but brings some casual Friday fun to the office or any situation with its numerous color and strap options. The green dial features numerals at 3, 9, and 12 with sword-shaped hands and a date window at 6 o’clock.

The stainless steel case measures 25.50 X 38.00mm. It’s paired with a dark green leather strap and stainless steel buckle. The timepiece is powered by the Oris 561, base ETA 2671 automatic movement.

Price: $1,950

8. SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED SERIES SPB165

The timepiece features a stainless steel case with a sharp, angular design that gives it a contemporary look. The case measures 39.3mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, making it a relatively compact and wearable watch.

The dial of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 is white with a hemp leaf pattern. The hour, minute hand, and hour markers are silver. The second hand offers a pop of color in sharp blue. The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position and is framed with a polished metal border.

The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R35 automatic movement, which features a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back.

The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 has a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet has a brushed finish that matches the case, and its links are designed to fit snugly against the wrist.

Price: $1,000

9. LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE L4.795.4.78.2

The Longines Flagship Heritage, with the silver-white dial, guilt hands, and markers, is a fine-looking timepiece. It features a small sub-second hand and date display, both at the 6 o’clock position. It’s clean, classy, and elegant. 

The stainless steel, polished case measures 38.5mm and is slim at 10.3mm thick. This watch is comfortable on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the caliber L615 automatic with a 50-hour power reserve. 

The case back features an attractive gold sailing ship set against a dark blue background. All of this is handsomely paired with a dark brown calf leather strip. 

Price: $1,841

10. HAMILTON JAZZMASTER H32475730

The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a sophisticated and elegant men’s wristwatch designed to impress both watch enthusiasts and fashion-conscious individuals. It features a classic, timeless design that is sure to make a statement on any occasion.

The watch is powered by a reliable H-10 automatic, with a power reserve of up to 80 hours. The watch case is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm, making it a comfortable size for most men’s wrists. 

The watch’s dial is a deep, rich black color and is adorned with silver-tone hour markers and hands. It also features a date display window at the 6 o’clock position, which makes it a practical and useful timepiece for everyday wear.

The strap of the Hamilton Jazzmaster is made of high-quality black leather and features white contrast stitching, which gives the watch a sophisticated and refined look. The strap is also easily interchangeable, allowing you to customize the watch’s look to suit your personal style.

Price: $895

11. JUNGHANS MAX BILL AUTOMATIC 27/4700.02

The Junghans Max Bill is a stylish and minimalist men’s wristwatch inspired by the design philosophy of the renowned Swiss architect and artist Max Bill. The watch embodies his principles of simplicity, functionality, and timeless elegance.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm and 10mm in height, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish paired with a high-quality gray leather strap.

The watch’s dial is simple and uncluttered, with a crisp white background and minimalist silver-tone hour markers and hands. The hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock feature a slightly raised dot, giving the dial a subtle depth and dimension. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position, which adds a practical touch to the watch.

The J800.1 automatic movement of the watch is reliable and precise. It has a power reserve of up to 38 hours. It’s a limited-edition timepiece with only 1,060 in circulation. 

Price: $1,350

12. LONGINES 1832 L4.826.4.52.0

The Longines 1832 is an elegant timepiece featuring a stainless steel case and a matt black dial with silver hands and hour markers. The case measures 40mm and sits at a respectable height of 12.3mm on the wrist. 

At the 6 o’clock position is a moon phase calendar with a gold moon and stars set against a dark, silky blue night sky. The watch is powered by a caliber L899 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is completed by a black alligator leather strap. 

Price: $2,400

13. MIDO BARONCELLI HERITAGE M027.407.16.010.00

The Mido Baroncelli Heritage is a beautiful and cultured men’s wristwatch that showcases the Swiss brand’s expertise in combining timeless design with modern functionality. It is part of the Baroncelli Heritage collection, which pays homage to Mido’s classic and elegant watchmaking heritage.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and is ultra-thin at 7.3mm, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish and is paired with a black leather strap.

The watch’s dial is a beautiful and clean white color, with a subtle, almost dimpled pattern, and is adorned with slim silver hour and minute hands, a sharp blue second hand, and black markers. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position. The caliber 1192 automatic movement features a reserve of up to 42 hours.

Price: $1,040

14. BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC MOA10518

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic MOA10518 is an elegant and refined men’s wristwatch that represents the Swiss brand’s commitment to producing high-quality timepieces that are both beautiful and reliable. The watch is part of the Clifton Baumatic collection, which features watches powered by Baumatic movements, known for their precision and longevity.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm and sits at the height of 11.3mm on the wrist. The polished case is paired with a black alligator leather strap, adding a touch of sophistication and luxury.

The watch’s dial is a porcelain-like white color and is adorned with slim silver hour, minute hands, and markers, with a dark gray second hand. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position.

The movement of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic is a precise and reliable Swiss-made automatic movement. It has a power reserve of up to 120 hours. One of the most notable features of the watch is the sapphire crystal case back, which allows you to admire the movement and intricate details of the timepiece. 

Price: $3,250

15. TUTIMA SKY AUTOMATIC 6105-22

The Tutima Sky Automatic is a stylish and functional men’s timepiece. It is part of the Tutima Sky collection, which features watches inspired by the brand’s history of creating high-performance aviation watches for military and civilian pilots. The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 13mm.

The case has a brushed finish and is paired with a Milanese bracelet. The watch’s dial is a beautiful blue dégrade color adorned with luminous hands and hour markers. There is also a small day and date display window at 3 o’clock. The movement of the Tutima Sky Automatic is a caliber 330, with a power reserve of up to 38 hours.

Price: $1,750

PARTING THOUGHTS

Finding the right dress watch can be challenging, but we hope our list has made the process easier for you. Whether you prefer a classic and traditional style or a modern and bold look, there is a dress watch on this list that will suit your personal taste and budget. 

Keep in mind the key factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch, such as the case material and size, strap option, movement and complications, brand and design, and value for money. Remember, a quality dress watch is a timeless investment that will last for years and will always add a touch of elegance to any outfit. 

We at Exquisite Timepieces see hundreds of watches with exceptional dials each year. Even though we all have different preferences regarding the ones we most admire, an enamel dial is one feature that gets us hot under the collar. Created by skillful artisans, these dials feature a forgotten artistic technique that conjures mesmerizing images of serenity.

In contrast to industrially manufactured dials, enamel dials have a distinctive twist of elegance with an understated vibrant flair. They are also known to maintain their radiance forever, which heightens their aesthetic appeal.

Of all the decorative techniques bequeathed to watches (engravings, lacquering, etc.), the most laborious is enameling. Reserved for only the most exquisite metiers d’art pieces, each enamel dial is very time-consuming and can take several days to produce with a very high failure rate.

Claude-Eric, director of Donzé Cadrans, even told the New York Times that up to 75 percent of its enamel dials are abandoned due to defects. Despite the difficulties tied with the making of enamel dials, they are increasingly getting popular for all the right reasons.

Their complexity, captivating details, and magical decorations have revived an intense desire in the hearts of many collectors. From Jaquet Droz to anOrdain, read on to discover the most refined, desirable, and alluring enamel dials in the watch world.

About Enamel Dial Watches

The ancient technique of creating an enamel dial lies somewhere between art, science, and alchemy. Strongly associated with jewelry and gold since antiquity, the first records of enameling have been traced back to some Greek sculptures dated 600 – 501 BC. 

The technique of enameling itself was mastered only by a handful of craftsmen. This ancient skill has been passed down over the years from master to apprentice, and much of its apprehension remains with only a small group of artisans.

As with other special skills found in the horological world, a shroud of mystery surrounds the beginnings of the use of enamel dials in watches. However, the first instances date back to the 17th century with the advent of pocket watches.

The distinct aesthetic element of each enamel dial makes them popular among watch aficionados because each one cannot be replicated synthetically. Enameling involves the application of a fine coat of ground glass to the base of the dial (often a metal disc), which is then heated to ultra-high temperatures.

During firing, a fusion between the ground-up enamel and the metal base occurs, creating a mesmerizing dial with a radiant gleam. Given the allure and elegance of enamel worked dials, they have become exceedingly desirable by collectors, even on the secondary market.

Should You Buy an Enamel Dial Watch?

Enamel making is one of the most recognizable crafts in the world of Horology, and purchasing a timepiece with an enamel dial can never be a mistake. Given the seductiveness and profound value of these dials, it is not entirely surprising that watch enthusiasts have revived an ever-increasing interest in them.

One of the reasons why watches with enamel dials are so compelling is the fact that there are zero allowances for mistakes. That said, collectors with a knack for exceptional watches that bridge the gap between haute horology and art would find these timepieces particularly spellbinding.

Apart from displaying the time legibly, enamel dial watches provide a refined accent to formal dress styles. Whether they look better in a specific work environment is subjective, but they will certainly elevate your game anytime, any day.

Enameling Techniques

Grand Feu

Grand Feu means “great fire” in French. Probably the most commonly used technique in making enamel dials, the process involves coating a metal disc with enamel and firing it up at temperatures of 800°C – 900°C. The process is repeated severally to achieve the desired texture, color (usually white, beige, or opaque), and motif.

Guilloché and Flinqué Enamel

A “Guilloché” dial involves a decorative technique where straight, curved, or broken lines are engraved into a dial to create intricate patterns. Guilloché and flinqué enamel dials feature a transparent enamel that beautifully showcases the pattern below.

Champlevé Enamel

Camplevé enameling technique is an ancient art mostly used in gold smithery to decorate metal items. The word ‘Champlevé’ means “raised field”, and the process requires the joint effort of an expert engraver and enamel artist. Spaces or three-dimensional cells are carved into the surface of a metal disc. An enameller then fills the cavities with vitreous enamel and fires it briefly at several hundred degrees.

Cloisoné Enamel

Cloison means “partition” in French, so in the ”Cloisonné” method of enameling, partitions are created on the dial using a gold wire to place the enamel with utmost precision. The technique, usually used in gold jewelry, produces a polished surface with a smooth finish.

20 Best Enamel Dial Watches

Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel (Ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6)

Inspired by the pocket watches from the brand in the 19th century, the Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel watch is the ultimate dress watch of prestige. In lieu of the conventional enamel colors (white or black), the resplendent dial is dark blue, sleek, and brilliant. 

The 18k white gold case measures 38mm in diameter and has a thickness of 8mm with long elegant lugs that ensures it sits a little wider than its measurement suggests. 

The vitreous enamel dial is adorned with Breguet’s signature numerals, while the minute markers are star-shaped. The hour and minute hands have been finished in rhodium-plated steel and feature the usual ‘Moon Tip Watch hands’ that Breguet first introduced in the 1780s. 

With the oversized silvered numerals, the conservative dress watch is given a mirthful personality that is extraordinary and second to none. An unconventionally shaped aperture displays the date at 3 o’clock without disrupting the dial’s symmetry, creating a legible and serene look.

It is powered by the sensational Calibre 777Q with 243 parts and 26 jewels that offer a power reserve of approximately 55 hours when the watch is fully wound.

Omega DeVille Trésor (ref. 432.53.40.21.03.001)

As one would anticipate from a marque with an innovative heritage, the execution of the DeVille Trésor is first class. Launched by OMEGA in 1949, the slim Trésor line was distinguished by its notable 30mm Calibre. But with the passing decades, the brand has gotten more technologically advanced, and this stunning timepiece is an accolade for its craftsmanship. 

The classic gents’ line now has watches with manual-winding Master Chronometer movements and come in stainless steel or 18K gold cases that measure 40mm in diameter. The ref. 432.53.40.21.03.001 is particularly alluring because it features a domed blue enamel dial that gives it a refined, elegant look. 

The vitreous, or Grand Feu enamel dial, has undergone an expert finishing, so it now has an avant-garde and somewhat extravagant appearance. Speaking of extravagance, the color of the date disc at 6 o’clock corresponds to that of the dial, and the hands, as well as the hour markers, have all been crafted from 18-carat white gold.

According to the brand, the logo and wording on the dial have been embellished by enamel prints through a ‘Petit Feu’ technique giving the timepiece an overall magnificent look. It is powered by the cal. 8929 with a magnetism resistance of over 15,000 Gauss and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010)

Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010) is a true connoisseur’s watch. Featuring complications like timing, chiming, and a perpetual calendar, the classic dress watch comes in a white gold case that measures 38mm in diameter.

With a height of 10.18mm, the timepiece is well-proportioned and will sit snugly on various medium-sized wrists. The brilliant black enamel dial with harmonious arabesque patterns is adorned with applied white gold markers that compliment the white gold case.

The firing at ultra-high temperatures has melted the enamel into a smooth consistency that is unique to this technique alone. The alluring arabesque patterns consist of a subtle contrast of matt and polished surfaces that offers a unique effect only an enamel dial can produce.

The overall quality of the dial is further illustrated by how the slender leaf-shaped hands reflect flawlessly on its surface. Discreet lozenge-shaped applied hour markers grace the face of the dial and offer excellent legibility. At the same time, a sub-dial at 6 o’clock turns pleasantly without disrupting the dial’s symmetry.

Beating at the watch’s heart at a frequency of 3 Hz is the caliber R 27 PS, a self-winding movement with 342 parts that features an exquisitely decorated mini rotor in 22K gold. Striking the hours, quarters, and minutes with a distinct tone on demand are two classic cathedral gongs.

The wearer can activate the gongs by using a slide piece at the left flank of the case. The strap is dark brown alligator leather with square scales fitted with an 18k white gold fold-over clasp.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon Enamel (Ref. Q1368480)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that knows how to release breathtaking timepieces. Coming in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the white gold case of the Ultra Thin Moon Enamel watch measures 39mm in diameter and is 10.04mm thick.

The classic watch with a contemporary appeal features a guilloché-enamel dial that bestows profound depth to the face of the watch.  A translucent enamel has been applied over the guilloché engraving on the dial in a process known as flinqué, giving off a very stunning effect.

The guilloché sunray pattern has fine, straight lines running from the center to the peripherals of the dial. The vivid midnight blue color of the transparent enamel becomes highly pronounced and sparkles when it hits the light just right.

The attention-grabbing watch is adorned with applied hour markers that are a little thinner and elongated than those featured in other Master Ultra Thin variants. A disc of mirror-polished white gold makes the moon shine brightly at 6 o’clock against the blue starry sky.

The date is displayed neatly on a ring framing the moon phase aperture, and this ring has been delicately engraved. The dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands, in white gold, sweep against the textured background discreetly, adding radiance and style to the stunning dial.

The watch is powered by the robust Caliber 925/2. Unlike the regular Caliber 925/1 fitted into the Ultra Thin Moon collection watches, this movement now provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours (from 43 hours). The watch comes mounted on a black alligator leather strap and has a water-resistant rating of 50 meters.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99)

Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of the its sponsorship of Bolshoi Theatre. The theater, which is in Moscow, is the parent organization of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet.

The Code 11.59 featured two outstanding variants; a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon that both came with smoked enamel dials. The ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99 measures 41mm across and is 10.7mm thick but wears a little larger than the measurements suggest, thanks to the skeletonized lugs attached only to the bezel.

The compelling blue dial is a breathtaking piece of craftsmanship. The enamel dial is smoked and conjures all kinds of emotions with its dusky effect as it graduates from a solid blue hue in the center to a darker rim. A slightly denser enamel coating at the edges of the dial transitions smoothly to the black lacquered flange for the minute numerals.

Much attention has been given to the execution of the dial as very few subtle imperfections can be noticed, unlike many other enamel dials. A date display lies discreetly between 4 and 5 o’clock and has been well integrated into the dial. The applied hour markers are in white gold, while the minute track comes in enamel print.

A sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides protects the dial. The watch is powered by the caliber 4302, a high-end movement with a combination of machine and hand-applied finishes. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of 70 hours.

Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Enamel Dial (ref. 3657.20.31)

The Broad Arrow Enamel Limited Series was first launched in 2002, commemorating Omega’s novel self-winding chronograph movement (the caliber 3303). The timepiece has nearly the same dimensions as in the original 1957 “Broad Arrow”, but a few differences can be noticed. 

The prominent features are still the broad arrow hour and minute hands, asymmetric crown guards, and laser-engraved tachymeter scale. The finely executed enamel dial appears practically perfect, with no visible imperfections exhibiting an outstanding quality in its execution. Bold Arabic numerals in black grace the glossy dial, which is protected by a domed sapphire crystal. 

A generous application of Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands ensures optimal legibility and makes the distinctive hands stand out in lowlight conditions. The diameter of the case is the same reasonable, yet contemporary 42mm, and it comes mounted on a black alligator strap. It is powered by the caliber 3320 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde (ref. 66260-3633-55B)

Famous for inventing one of the most complicated mechanical watches (Blancpain 1735), Blancpain continues to defy easy categorization by staying loyal to its tradition of innovation. The Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde is one of such technically challenging timepieces with top-notch craftsmanship.

Launched in 2018 at Baselworld, this is the first watch from Blancpain that features a flying tourbillon, jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and an enamel dial. The timepiece measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 11mm. The enamel dial has the brand’s figure-of-eight display that offers an almost perfect symmetry, except for the funky off-center hour window. 

Despite the unconventional time display, legibility is excellent though reading the precise minute might take a while. The expensively executed glossy white look is a result of the champlevé dial. Engraving has been carried out on the discs to form the elevated borders surrounding the minute register and tourbillon aperture. 

Vitreous enamel has then been filled into the recessed areas and fired in an oven. The tourbillon rings and that of the hour window have been diamond polished, and together with the glossy enamel dial, the watch has an impressively sophisticated look. 

Oh, and the tourbillon looks like it’s floating since it’s delineated from the main dial, which is just breathtaking. The timepiece is powered by the robust in-house caliber 260 MR with an impressive 12-day power reserve.

Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999

Credor is a word taken from crête d’Or in French, which means “crest of gold”. Created by Seiko in 1974, the elegant dress watch line is the ethos of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship. The Eichi II is Seiko’s idea of minimalism with exceptional execution. Everything from the case, dial, and design has been carefully crafted by elite watchmakers nestled at Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, Japan.

The platinum case gives it a heft despite measuring just 39mm across. With a thickness of 10.3mm, the timepiece is likely to slide under a cuff but still feels solid in construction with its crocodile leather strap. The hand-made dial is emphatically devoid of adornments, but the white porcelain dial conceals a depth that is impossible to ignore.

The dial is hand-decorated and bears only heat-blued hands with tapering tips (which are strikingly elementary but also very pleasant), hour markers, and the word ‘Credor.’ The Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999 uses a Spring Drive movement that is water-resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 704.048)

A. Lange & Söhne is a globally renowned icon amongst the highly recognized top-shelf luxury watch manufacturers. “Handwerkskunst” is German for craftsmanship, and the collection promises timepieces with extraordinary artistry that have been crafted to perfection. 

Instantly recognizable on the dial are the off-centered subsidiary seconds dial, a big date window, a power reserve indicator, and an impressive view of the one-minute tourbillon. The tourbillon, nestled at the base of the 38.5mm watch at 5 o’clock, might take the spotlight, but the dial is magnificent in its simplicity.

The glossy black dial is a champlevé dial, which, as explained earlier, has first been carved out to fashion the indices and texts before being filled with vitreous enamel. Afterward, it is fired at about 800°C and polished.

The enamel dial has a striking appearance with floral engravings and a polished appearance that reflects the light just right as you move your wrist around. The hands of the watch and date surround are in white gold, and the enamel has been laid on a white gold disc (as against the general copper disc used for dials). 

Overall, the dial is superbly finished and will retain its quality for decades. Beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour is the in-house caliber L961.3 with 378 parts and a power reserve of 72 hours.

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Tourbillon (ref. 8804-0200)

The Heritage Tourbillon from H. Moser & Cie pays tribute to the brand’s historic watches, which were technically challenging with superb craftsmanship. Expert hands that range from guilloché workers to enamellers have come together to produce this no-nonsense timepiece with an elegant display.

The 18kt white gold case is fully polished and measures a wearable 42mm by 12.2mm. The round shape of the case is reminiscent of vintage wristwatches and pocket watch features such as wire lugs and a railroad minute track give the timepiece a cool vintage look without compromising its graphics and contemporary aesthetics. 

The Grand Feu enamel dial is executed almost perfectly and looks sophisticated yet understated. The dial features a noticeable thinness that takes expertise to achieve, as many of such dials crack in the production process. It is smooth, glossy, and rich in texture with long-lasting quality and is adorned with large Roman numerals and flame-blued swallowtail hands. 

The overall design of the enamel dial is charming, original, and straightforward. The watch is powered by the in-house HMC 804 automatic caliber, which is visible through the sapphire case-back. 

anOrdain Model 2

Though a small Scottish brand, anOrdain has gained a reputation for producing understated watches with quintessential elegance. The brand established itself as a guru in manufacturing enameled dials when it released the first batch in 2018 (Model 1).

The Model 2 might be a small watch by modern standards (at 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height), but it wears slightly larger than its measurement suggests. The enamel dials come in six different colors, which are all eye-catching with profound depths. They include; Moss Green, Grey, Torr Blue, White, Purple, and Midnight Blue.

Complementing the clean dial are printed Arabic numerals. The numerals have been used only for the even numbers while matching baton markers are used for the odd numbers, and they are surrounded by a minute track.

The words “Vitreous Enamel” have been written on the 12 and 6 o’clock position, and skeletonized hour and minute hands, which are syringe-tipped, adorn the bland face of the dial. Providing a power reserve of 42 hours is the ubiquitous Sellita SW-210-1. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

Nomos Glashütte Ludwig 38 Enamel White (ref. 236)

Nomos Glashütte launched two watches in 2020 to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the brand’s watchmaking practice in Glashütte: the Ludwig 38mm white enamel dial and the Ludwig 33mm white dial. Both cases were crafted from polished stainless steel and feature a tripartite construction with thin, elongated, sloping lugs and polished surfaces highlighting the classic design. 

Although it’s not technically a vitreous enamel dial, the result of the artistry carried out on the dial is identical to that of vitreous enamel dials (hence the name). High-gloss lacquer has been used to coat the dial in several layers, and each layer has been polished before the next is applied, resulting in a breathtaking refined look with the aesthetics of a white enamel-like finish. 

The dial does not glitter, but it does shine from certain angles. If viewed from the top, straight on, it displays a certain depth that cannot be replicated easily with other materials. When viewed from the sides, the glossy surface shines brilliantly depending on exposure to light. Narrow Roman numerals with railroad minute markers give the watch a vintage look, while thermally blued needle-thin hands add contemporary elegance.

The timepiece has a recessed second sub-dial at 6 o’clock and is powered by the in-house manufactured caliber, the Alpha, a hand-wound movement that offers 43 hours of power reserve. It is splashproof (30 meters water resistance rating) and comes mounted on a horween genuine shell cordovan brown strap.

Seiko Presage Enamel Dial SPB047J1

The Presage collection from Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts since 2016, when it became available globally. The watch line boosts elegant timepieces inspired by the brand’s tradition-steeped classic pieces powered by in-house mechanical movements.

Seiko pays special attention to the design of the dials in this collection, as most of them are crafted in striking Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, enamel, etc. Coming on a black Crocodile leather strap with a three-fold clasp, the SPB047J1 is one of the most beautiful pieces in the range. Since vintage inspiration is a paramount feature of the collection, the watch is styled in line with the design of the first Seiko Laurel timepiece from 1913.

The hand-made white enamel dial features a warm and soft sheen with elegant deep blue hands and classical Roman indexes. Many of the enamel dials in the Presage collection feature his craftsmanship, and all pay tribute to the ancestral savoir-faire techniques of the brand.

Though the dial is not 100% faultless because of manual interventions, the handmade glossy look of the polished surface gives it a depth and texture that differentiates it from other standard painted/treated dials. 

The SPB047J1 is a pretty formal timepiece with a steel case that measures 40.5mm across, a thickness of 12.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47.8mm. It is powered by the Calibre 6R25, a mid-range, in-house automatic movement by Seiko with a stop second-hand function, date display, and 23 jewels. 

Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 Flying Tourbillon (ref. W6920105)

Presented with a brilliant blue flinqué enamel dial, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is a nod to the brand’s flair for sophisticated-looking watches. The Ballon Bleu collection, which was launched in 2007, has grown to enchant lovers of exquisite timepieces, making it one of Cartier’s all-time bestsellers.

The flinqué enamel dial here is different in that it combines two ancient dial-making techniques; guilloché and enameling. The metal disc for the base has first been patterned with guilloche and then coated with colored enamel.

Through high-temperature firing, the enamel covering becomes fixated with the metallic dial underneath, and the arduous process is repeated severally to obtain a glossy, brilliant color. Afterward, the dial is polished to offer a rich appearance and depth.

The satin-brushed cartouche dial is almost bare, except for its sword-shaped hands in steel and Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Providing 60 hours of power reserve is the robust caliber 9452 MC, a mechanical manual winding movement with 142 parts. It is fitted on a dark blue alligator leather strap.

Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Louis Erard is a respected brand known for its affordable luxury watches. The Émail Grand Feu II is the second model from the brand that features a radiant Grand Feu enamel dial. Following Louis Erard’s grand tradition of métiers d’art, the timepiece is a beautiful mix of traditional and contemporary aesthetics.

The vitreous enamel dial is rendered in pristine white with lively blue indications that pleasantly contrast the effusive purity of the façade. Certain purists will be delighted to know that the radiance of the enamel dial is perpetual and the color is fixed permanently. Also, the multiple layers of enamel powder, which have been fused to the thin metal disc, are forever bonded to it. 

The handcrafted dial features applied Roman numerals and some long slender markers with a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The brand’s Fir Tree hands have been blued so that they sit prominently against the serene enamel, while a striking red Roman numeral at 12 adds a fine touch of animation to the dial.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Sellita SW261-1 self-winding movement that provides a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch measures 38mm in diameter and has a height of 12.25mm. It comes on a red-grained calfskin strap with bright blue stitches at each lug, creating an elegant ensemble.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)

A. Lange & Sohne is a brand highly respected for its horological exactitude, and the classic 1815 Tourbillon is an allusion to the ingenious technicality of the brand. The design is inspired by vintage pocket watches, so it is conservatively styled but stands out from the timepieces in A. Lange & Söhne’s catalog due to its stark white enamel dial with a vivid red “12”.

The diminutive 38mm platinum case has been polished on all sides save for some sections of the case back and the caseband, giving the watch a radiant gleam. The grand-feu dial has a brilliant white color with a glossy surface. According to the brand, it has taken about 30 manual processes to craft each dial, which just points to the series of painstaking actions often repeated numerous times to produce this flawless surface.

The glossy white dial is adorned with the radiant blue lance-shaped hands, the A. Lange & Söhne’s curved logo, bold black Arabic numerals, and a chemin-de-fer. Overall, no concession to expedience is observed in any detail. The watch features several patented devices and is powered by the hand-wound Calibre L102.1, which can store up to 72 hours of energy.

Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 (ref. 161977-5001)

Presented in a 40mm x 10.3mm satin-brushed and polished 18K rose gold case, the Quattro Spirit 25 is Chopard’s first jumping-hour timepiece. The white grand feu enamel dial is strongly legible with an impressive quality that adds to the timepiece’s appeal.

Produced in-house by Chopard’s artisans, the beauty of the enamel dial is enchanting and won’t diminish with the onset of the years. A rose gold disc has been used as the base underneath, and successive layers of vitreous enamel have been carefully applied and fired at high temperatures to attain a glossy surface that beams beautifully when viewed from the top. 

At the base of the dial (6 o’clock), we find the jumping-hour aperture with a black Arabic numeral against a white disc that ‘jumps’ when the minute hand strikes 60. The display is framed with a mesmerizing rose gold bolder that instantly attracts the wearer to the prevailing hour, located subtly within the main dial.

The “L.U.CHOPARD” logo is located beneath the 60-minute mark, railway track, and Arabic numerals indicating the minutes have been produced by black enamel, while a gilded Dauphine hand is used to indicate the minutes.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Calibre LUC 98.06-L. A hand-wound movement with 240 components, including 42 jewels, provides an impressive power reserve of 192 hours.

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture (ref. 3203-136-2/E3)

Showcasing the precious art of enameling in all its grandeur is the Classico Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin. The dial is created by Donzé Cadrans, a subsidiary of the brand with talented designers who are specialists in enameling. The dress watch is a perfect blend of elegance and style and is presented in a classic stainless-steel case that measures 40 mm across.

The blue grand feu enamel dial is breathtaking, and the designers have tried to keep it as understated as possible. The dial, made by applying vitreous enamel over a guilloché base and repeatedly firing at ultra-high temperatures, has a uniqueness that cannot be synthetically replicated.

The blue hue and patterns are altered depending on how the light hits the dial, and the legibility is excellent thanks to its luminous hands and hour markers. Embossed Roman indicators are used to mark 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, while embossed bars are used to mark the other hours.

An in-laid sub-dial at 6 o’clock is excellently designed and displays the seconds. It also shows the date through a round aperture, indicative of the nautical heritage. Powering the watch is the self-winding UN-320 caliber, an in-house movement by Ulysse Nardin. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. It is fitted to a blue alligator strap and is water resistant to 30 meters.

Moritz Grossmann Atum Enamel White Gold (ref. MG-000807)

Moritz Grossmann is a watch manufacturer known to produce some of the world’s most exquisite timepieces, and what we have here is a true paragon of exclusive watchmaking.

Standing out with impeccable graphics and noble minimalism, the Atum Enamel can easily be described as functional and clean with its classic round case that has been fashioned out of rose gold. 

The watch measures a fitting 41mm across and is 11.65mm high. The timepiece’s overall design is vintage-inspired but enlivened by contemporary styling patterns and nuances. The glossy surface of the dial is perhaps a bit too stark, but it has a charming vibrancy that cannot be imitated by lacquering methods.

Narrow Roman numerals in black provide excellent contrast and legibility against the gleaming white surface, while the vivid blue numeral at 12 o’clock proffers a stylish touch of animation to it. At the base, a subtle small seconds counter for the seconds has been slightly sunken and takes the position of the 6 o’clock index without disrupting the symmetry of the dial.

Three traditionally styled Lancette hands, made of steel, sweep across the face of the dial, and all have been polished so brightly that they stand out sharply against the peaceful beauty of the enamel. The watch is powered by Moritz Grossmann’s caliber 100.1, which beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel (ref. J013013200)

Jaquet Droz is a brand that has gained popularity by crafting iconic timepieces that can easily be aligned with works of art. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel is particularly spellbinding with classic good looks and typical Jaquet Droz quality. The 18K red gold case measures 39mm in diameter, a suitable size relative to the movement it houses, and wide enough to offer the watch a notable presence on the wrist without being enormous.

The look is familiar and quite noticeable is the distinctive lucky number 8, which has become a recurring theme for the brand. This time, however, it is presented on a gorgeous expanse of soft-spoken ivory enamel. As expected from a marquee with the outstanding heritage of Jaquet Droz, the execution of the white ivory enamel is first class.

The superb ivory enamel dial, which is more complicated to create than it looks, has a factory-fresh appearance with a warm, brilliant white color that will not age over time. The phenomenal dial is adorned with 18K red gold hours and minutes hands, blued steel seconds hand, and a beautiful tourbillon that reveals a palpable degree of luxury. 

Inside, the Grande Seconde Tourbillon beats the in-house Jaquet Droz 25JD, an impressively constructed self-winding movement with detailed hand-finishing that offers a power reserve of about 7 days. Overall the timepiece is a true paragon of exclusive fine watchmaking and is fitted to a hand-made black alligator leather strap.

Conclusion

The making of an enamel dial is a labor of love with a million heartbreaks. This is why watches with enamel dials would remain the most prestigious among all others.

I’m of the mind that if you can purchase something as haute horological as a timepiece with an impressive enamel dial, by all means, do. Not only do they epitomize continued respect for the ancient craft, but they are also ageless and have great long-term collectible potential.