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Best Affordable Watches

The most common word associated with watches these days is the word investment. People want to enjoy the benefits of wearing a quality timepiece and be sure it will always hold its value. 

As a watch enthusiast, the first thoughts that come to mind anytime I set my eyes on a watch are the cost of the timepiece and how much value they hold. These are the honest thoughts of any collector because as much as everyone loves a quality watch, the cost is a big hindrance to many purchases. 

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Seiko Prospex

Alpinist SPB121

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 39.5mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Oris

Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 400 Salmon Dial

  • Multi-piece titanium case with satin and sandblasted finishes
  • Automatic
  • 39mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

TUDOR

Pelagos 39 M25407N-0001

  • Titanium
  • Automatic
  • 39mm

Is Value Retention Important in Watches?

The meaning of value might differ from person to person. It might mean how much a particular piece costs and how much meaning a piece has to an individual. But when it comes to watches, the major factor that gives a watch value is how much it could cost in the future and, in this case, if the price would go higher or lower. 

I always advise people just getting into watches and trying to get an affordable timepiece to purchase watches from known reputable brands to get a piece of top quality and one they would enjoy wearing. 

Value retention does not play a role in this case. However, it is different when trying to purchase a watch that you can sell in the future for the same or a higher amount. In this case, the value retention of a timepiece is a very important factor.

What Makes a Watch Hold Its Value?

The cost of acquiring a watch is one of the qualities most people believe makes a watch hold value. From my experience as a collector, this is not always the case. There are lots of qualities a watch must have for it to be considered a timepiece that holds value.

Brand Recognition 

In all honesty, I won’t want to start telling anyone about my watch when I’m asked what I have on my wrist; I always want my timepiece to make a statement with just the brand name. The hype that comes with having a Rolex or a Patek Philippe is exactly what brand recognition means. 

The recognition a watch brand has is among the qualities that tell if a watch holds value or not because of the name such a brand has built for itself over the years. Watches like Jaeger-LeCoulture, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have been in existence for decades and are still known for not just their high costs but durability, quality, efficiency, and a whole bunch of other qualities that have kept them relevant to date. 

The fact that these watch brands have created a reputable name for themselves has kept them in the market for hundreds of years. Customers trust their products, which has increased their sales over the years of their operations. The recognition these brands have in the world of watches is a major factor that has helped most of their products hold value for a long time.

Watch Materials

After considering the brand of a particular watch when trying to acquire a new timepiece, the materials used in making the watch are one major factor that keeps me glued. The metals and crystals used for the casing are one aspect to be accessed when looking at the materials used to make a watch. Most brands say they use quality stainless steel, but some of them make use of alloy or very cheap steel for the casing of the watches.

The most common grade of steel found in top luxury watches are 316L and 904L steels. Materials like gold and titanium are used to case some top quality watches like the Omega Seamaster 300, crafted with grade 2 titanium and currently worth $9,500; the Rolex Day-date President with 40mm casing and up to 100 grams of pure gold, this timepiece costs up to $40,000.

Movement

One thing that blew my mind when I started getting into watches was the fact that the movement of a watch could determine the value associated with timepieces. There are two different movements in the world of watches, the Quartz that ticks every second and the mechanical watches with a sweeping seconds hand movement.

The mechanical watches are always more expensive than the others, mainly due to the effort put into the mechanism.

Watch Exclusivity 

A watch like the Patek Philippe Henry Grave Super Complication was a watch specifically designed for wealthy business people in the early parts of the 20th century. It was a pocket watch that had 24 different features, which took up to three years to design and five years to manufacture. 

This limited edition of Patek Philippe sold for $24 million in 2014 and held the record for the highest amount spent on a timepiece at that time. Aside from being cased in 18 karats worth of gold and having so many features, the exclusivity of this timepiece is the major factor that holds the value of this pocket watch to date.

Iconic Status

The story behind the creation of a particular watch or events, reasons, and experiences that surround a timepiece could categorize a watch as iconic. A good example is the Reverso collection from Jaeger LeCoultre, which was brought to life in 1931 to protect watches from being scratched or damaged during physical activities.

Various collections have come out of this brand, yet the Reverso collection seems to be the most popular one out of all of them, and multiple watches in this iconic line are very well known to hold their value.

Do Affordable Watches Hold Their Value?

As I mentioned earlier, the material used in designing a watch is a major yardstick for measuring if a timepiece would hold value or not. Every watch manufacturer wants to make a profit from the sale of their timepieces. That’s always the goal when trying to sell anything, right? And nobody would make use of very quality materials in designing a watch and sell them very cheaply because those materials cost a lot of money. 

So, there are no cheap watches that hold value, in my opinion. But when it comes to the world of watches and gauging from the cost of a lot of other timepieces, there are affordable watches that hold their value. I will give you a list of some of these watches and their specifications below. 

The Best Affordable Watches That Won’t Lose Their Value

1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex announced the launch of this hand-wound watch back in 2017, and it instantly became a hit due to the quality of materials used in the design and how cheap it was. This timepiece has a case size of 34mm with a thickness of 10mm. It has a lug width of 18mm with a water resistance of up to 30m.

The most attractive features of this watch are its excellent dress watch proportions, along with the hand-wound Seagull movement powering it. This leather strapped hand-wound watch is perfectly styled to carry that vintage look and only costs $200.

2. Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)

Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)

This unique collaboration between Omega and Swatch came out in 2022 and took the watch world by storm. Its bioceramic case has a 41.9mm diameter and is built with two-thirds pure ceramic, and the other one-third is from a material obtained from castor oil.

This watch has the look of the Omega Speedmaster and can easily play the same role if you don’t have up to $6,000 to spend on a Speedy. The short lug-to-lug distance of 47.9mm makes it wear very well on most wrists. It does have a few shortcomings, including an acrylic crystal, but for $260, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a watch with a more iconic design.

3. Seiko SKX007 (ref. 7S26-0020)

This timepiece carries the look and price to make it the go-to piece for many watch lovers. Like most Seiko watches, it has a very masculine design with a 42mm in width, 13mm in height, and a 46mm lug to lug. The outstanding feature of this watch lies in its overall function.

It was manufactured to satisfy the ISO 6425 dive standard, which includes temperature cycling from -20c to 60c, getting hit by a hammer weighing up to 3kg, and a meter drop test, all done while maintaining its accurate time. 

This watch has a Seiko 7S26 movement which is the company’s cheapest movement and goes to show that designing a quality watch doesn’t always have to come with the most expensive materials. 

The designs on the minute, second, and hour hands add more to the aesthetic look of this watch. Seiko discontinued the SKX collection in 2019, and prices have increased steadily for a piece in good condition. If you can find one close to its original retail price of approximately $200, go for it, as it’s unlikely to drop any time soon.

4. Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)

Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)

I set my eyes on this timepiece in 2022, and the attention to detail on the green dial really stood out to me. It has very bold numerals on the dial with cathedral minute, hour, and second hands. This Japanese watch is powered by a 6R15 movement that is very reliable and shock resistant with a water resistance of up to 200 meters. 

It also has a sapphire crystal which makes it very difficult to get scratched. This watch has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 12mm which makes it very easy to wear. This Alpinist watch is well-respected by many collectors because of the good features it has and still falls under the category of quality watches that you can buy for less than $1000.

5. Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.04)

Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.04)

The minimalist design and the overall look of this watch made me purchase this watch a couple of months ago. The dimensions of this timepiece include a 38mm diameter, a case height of 9.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 40mm. 

Junghans are known for their minimalist features, but the addition of sapphire crystals has added a little bit of sophistication to the watch. As simple as this timepiece looks, it is controlled by an automatic movement inside, the calibre J800.1. This watch currently sells for approximately $1,200.

6. Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)

Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)

The components of this watch make it a relatively affordable one, even in the range of $1000-$1500. From being hand-assembled in Germany and also having a Sellita SW200-1 movement, I consider this a very good buy. Aside from being an easily repairable watch due to its movement, Sinn watches are also known for their resistance to shock and cold. 

The timepiece has a sapphire crystal on the front and back and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 45.5mm, a thickness of 11.2mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The dial of this watch has white text and a deep black background which matches the middle parts of the second, minute, and hour hands, giving them a floating look. 

7. Omega Speedmaster Reduced(ref. 3510.50.00)

Omega Speedmaster Reduced(ref. 3510.50.00)

Like most Omega Speedmasters, the Reduced has a very legible dial with a black background and white minute, hour, and second hands. The dial of the Speedmaster Reduced houses 3 sub-dials that serve chronograph functions for a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and small seconds. 

This watch measures 39mm in diameter and has a lug width of 18mm. The steel watch is powered by the caliber 3220, which is a self-winding ETA-based movement fitted with a modular chronograph mechanism and also has a water resistance of up to 30 meters. This timepiece has a Hesalite crystal at the top of the watch, which adds to its thickness of 12.3mm. This watch currently sells within the range of $3,000 to $4,000.

8.  Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400  (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

 Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400  (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

Pilot watches have a lot of features that make them appealing to a wide range of people. This timepiece was released in 2022 and comes in pink, blue, gray, and green colors. The watch is housed in a 39mm diameter and 12mm thick lightweight titanium case.

It features the in-house automatic Calibre 400, with 5 days’ worth of power and a water resistance of up to 100 meters. One feature that differentiates this pilot from some other ones is the see-through case back which allows you to see the artistic inner workings of the timepiece.

The serpentine-style three-link bracelet also adds to its look and makes a firm grip around the wrist. The watch has a simple dial with minute, hour, and second hands and also a date indicator at the bottom part of the watch. This timepiece is currently worth $4,300. 

9.  Tudor Pelagos 39 (ref. M25407N-000)

 Tudor Pelagos 39 (ref. M25407N-000)

One of the standout features of the Tudor Pelagos 39 is its dimensions, including a diameter of 39mm, a case thickness of 11.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm. This dive watch is powered by an in-house COSC-certified movement, the MT5400, and has a power reserve of up to 70 hours. The watch has a casing and bracelet made with grade 2 titanium and has a water resistance of 200 meters. 

The Tudor Pelagos has a black dial with white second, minute, and hour hands and also white and red texts within the dial which all light up in the dark. The complementary rubber strap that comes with this watch allows for a longer-lasting relationship with this watch, as interchanging them will prevent the watch from getting scratched. This watch is currently sold for $4,600.

10.  Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

 Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

This is one of the most popular Omega watches, and as the name implies, it’s an edition of the first Omega watch in space which is the Speedmaster 2998. An alpha-style hand is used for the hour and minute hand, while baton hands were used for the 12-hour and 30-minute sub-dial. 

This watch is powered by the Omega caliber 1861 hand-winding movement and also has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. This stainless steel timepiece has the date of October 1962 engraved on its back, which marks the Sigma 7th space mission. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm and a thickness of 14mm. The cost of this watch ranges between $5,000 to $6,000.

11. Tudor Black Bay (ref. 79220N)

Tudor Black Bay (ref. 79220N)

This model of the Black Bay has a 41mm case from side to side, just like the other ones. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 49.6mm and features an ETA 2824 movement with 38 hours of power reserve. 

This watch has a very classic dial, just like the ones found in old-school Rolexes, and even includes the original Tudor rose logo. The casing and bracelet of the stainless steel watch are well polished all around and have the inscription of Tudor at the bottom and in between the clasps. This timepiece costs between $5,000 to $6,000.

12. Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)

Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)

This is one of the later models of the Rolex Thunderbird, which was created for air force pilots back in the day. The watch is available in solid gold and stainless steel types. This timepiece is a late-80s, early-90s watch, so it doesn’t come with the fanciest features. It has a bi-directional bezel at the top, which moves freely without the usual clicks. 

This watch comes in different dial colors with bold indices and a tiny Roman numeral inscription at the top of the indices. It is a 36mm cased watch with a thickness of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. You can find ones in good condition for around $7,000 to $8,000.

13. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439931)

Hamilton has been one of the primary watch suppliers for the US military for many years. Many of their pieces have rugged exteriors that fit the utilitarian vibe of the military and often come with unique features perfect for heavy-duty activity. The Khaki is no different. It is simple and reliable, and in the military world, that’s all it takes for a watch to be extremely effective. 

The case measures 38mm in diameter with a simple black dial and cream-colored numerals. A fairly simple aesthetic, but one that I find very attractive and communicates that vintage look of classic military watches. The Khaki is powered by the Hamilton H-50 hand-wound movement, offering an impressive 80 hours of power reserve while maintaining precision to make it efficient for everyday wear. 

This watch holds its value simply because of how durable it is. Its classic design makes it extremely desirable, and with an affordable price tag of $575, it makes for a fair investment opportunity. 

14. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro (ref. S60-38ADA3-S0BB0-TBW)

Everybody likes to own a new watch without having to drain their wallet at the same time. That’s only one aspect that makes the C60 Trident Pro from Christopher Ward such a great option. Aside from its affordability at $665, the build quality and functionality are more than impressive.

This includes a modest case size of 38mm, reliable stainless steel, and a deep blue dial color that’s beyond bold. I hate to sound like anybody else, but it’s the beauty of the dial that made me take a second look at this watch. On top of that, I love the 600-meter professional water resistance, as well as the lacquered dial and polished indexes.

The bezel is functional and responsive, and I found a lot of satisfaction in the smooth winding of the crown. Other features that are important to point out include the anti-shock system, modest dimensions, and quick-release strap system. Overall, I find lifelong value in this watch due to its timeless features and style choices, which will always be relevant.

Conclusion 

From my experience as a watch enthusiast, the affordability of a watch varies from person to person. A particular timepiece could have all the characteristics of a watch that holds value and sell at a price lesser than it is valued at. Despite that, a lot of people would still categorize such a watch as expensive. 

However, it can be seen from the list above that there are quality watches of different ranges that hold their value, and these watches could be enjoyed by people looking to sell them in the nearest future for the same or a higher cost, and people just looking to enjoy the feeling of a quality watch.

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15 BEST Thin Dive Watches with a Sleek Design! (2025)

James Ede

February 2, 2024

If you are reading this, you are probably tired of heavy and bulky dive watches, and you need a sleek design. You’re in luck. The Exquisite Timepieces team scoured depths to uncover the 15 best thin dive watches.

These watches combine a relatively slim profile with a regular dive watch’s renowned durability and precision timekeeping. As a result, they are versatile and stylish dive watches. Portable enough to style formal wear and lightweight for everyday fashion without bugging your wrist.

While they all have a similar design architecture, you’ll find a variety of svelte styles for different budgets to choose from on our list. So let’s get to it.  

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

Legend Diver L3.374.4.50.6

  • Stainless steel
  • Automatic
  • 36mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Glashütte Original

SeaQ Bracelet

  • Stainless steel, polished and satin-brushed, with rotating bezel
  • Automatic
  • 39.50mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Oris

Divers Sixty Five Blue on Bracelet

  • Multi-piece stainless steel case, minutes scale top ring
  • Automatic
  • 40mm

About Thin Dive Watches

When you think of a dive watch, you probably envision something big, bulky, and built like a tank – which is true. It’s no surprise when they are designed to survive deep-sea diving. Ideally, they feature overengineered, often oversized cases with superior durability, legibility, luminosity, and water resistance, boosting their general demand and not being restricted to divers only. 

You most likely thought, “you want all these quirks but in a streamlined and elegant case” when you embarked on the journey for thin dive watches. The good thing is there are quite a few quality timepieces that fit the category. However, you’ll be out of luck if you expect models like the ultra-thin 2.4mm Bulgari Octto Finnissimo. Thin dive watches range from around 6mm to 13mm, and most fall within the 11mm range. 

On the bright side, they are comfortable to wear for long periods and can be dressed up without getting caught under your sleeve or jacket cuff. Slim divers can serve you on formal occasions or in their element for casual or sports wear. 

Thin dive watches are no pushovers, either. Some models can be slightly tougher than regular or oversized ones. However, they suffer no compromise to structural integrity due to the slimmer profile. They also maintain essential dive watch features such as a unidirectional bezel, water resistance, and luminosity. Plus, technological advancements have allowed for the creation of thinner movements that don’t sacrifice accuracy.

Should You Buy A Thin Dive Watch?

It’s no secret that more than half of the people who buy diver watches are not divers or into sports. Most enthusiasts buy them because they love the design, which is subjective. At the same time, another set of folks uses the unidirectional bezel to time an array of activities other than underwater duration.

For what it’s worth, the closest action my dive watch sees is recording 20-minute intervals for regular breaks from work. Another thing is even bulky dive watches are designed to fit under a wetsuit. They are tool watches, so they fit perfectly under overalls if you work in an industry.

But a thin dive watch is your best bet if you want a low-profile model you can style with a dress shirt. It gives you that bold look, unmatched visibility, and functionality in a small case. Plus, they are a great choice for small wrists that struggle to wear divers without having the fit of an Omnitrix. Slim dive watches fit better and stylishly.

The Best Thin Dive Watches

We’ve compiled this list of the absolute best quality divers with cases thinner than 13mm. The selections are according to their value and respect among enthusiasts, not by size.

1. Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue (ref. M79030B-0001)

Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue (ref. M79030B-0001)

Starts from approximately $3,300

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue (ref. M79030B-0001) is a thin dive watch masterpiece with a vintage appeal. It has a 39mm case, slightly smaller than the conventional 40mm and 45mm, and is only 12mm thick – a perfect size for both men and women. It has a durable, corrosion-resistant case made from 316L stainless steel.

Its blue unidirectional bezel is a classic design with 10-minute Arabic-numbered intervals to 60 minutes. The aluminum bezel is fluted for non-slippery handling with gloves or underwater. Also, its markers are Super-LumiNova treated – meaning they glow in the dark. This “glow in the dark” feature extends to the hour marker and hands on the dial.

Speaking of the dial, it’s yet another classic look, but in blue. It sports a domed dial plate, trademark round markers, and snowflake hands, which are simple yet aesthetic. You’d love the attention to detail in the finish of the Black Bay. Its case is polished down to the lugs, while the bracelet is a rough, bold, and dressy satin finish.

The Tudor Black Bay’s standout function is arguably its long-lasting 70-hour power reserve. That’s about three days’ worth of juice powered by a COSC-certified in-house movement, the MT5402.

2. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 1110 B52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 1110 B52A)

Starts from approximately $11,500

Since introducing the original Bathyscaphe watch, Blancpain has committed to creating smaller-sized sports diving watches, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 1110 B52A) is no exception. 

This luxury dive watch stands out for its thin profile and sleek design. It’s housed in a 43mm case of only 13.4mm thickness. And this size might not seem thin to casual wearers, but it falls in the sweet spot for professionals. 

While this Bathyscaphe might seem relatively thin compared to dress watches, it is noteworthy for a dive watch, which typically requires a thicker case to withstand the pressures of deep-sea exploration.

In addition, the slim and flat bezel enhances the watch’s thin profile with its ceramic inlay and Liquidmetal markers and numerals. The 23mm width between the horns also enhances its slim profile. 

What I admire most about this dive watch is how Blancpain kept up with typical features while trying to achieve a slim profile. As a result, the watch maintains a high water resistance (300 meters), an impeccable 120-hour power reserve, and a high resistance to shock and magnetism.

3. Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

Starts from approximately $11,900

They say looks can be deceiving, and that’s exactly the case with this Glashütte Original SeaQ model. Its gigantic numeral Arabic numerals can be misleading of its actual weight and frame. But it’s only the brand’s way of prioritizing visibility for underwater and low-light environments or reading the time at an angle.

But its enormous feature goes no deeper than the numbers. The SeaQ has a polished stainless steel case, possibly one of the thinnest certified dive watches. It’s only 39.5mm and has a height of 12.15mm, which is impressive considering the watch’s 200-meter water resistance rating. A small detail I loved about this diver is the representation of its 20-bar (200 meters) water resistance on the case back with 20 waves.

You’ll also love its innovative dial design. It’s a radiant combination of large orange Arabic numerals, baton markers on a sunburst black dial, and the date window at 3 o’clock.

Regarding functionality, SeaQ has all makings of a professional dive watch. It has a fully graduated 60-minute unidirectional bezel, luminescent markers, and hands. The brushed stainless steel bracelet is nice, but you also have more dive-friendly options of rubber and synthetic straps. 

In addition, it comes with a Glashutte Original automatic caliber 39-11 with a 40-hour power reserve running at 28,000 frequency. Plus, the watch meets DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 diving standards.

4. Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.6)

Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.6)

Starts from approximately $2,300

This watch is another small adaptation of a classic diver – the Legend Diver – as a 10th-anniversary model. As its name implies, its round measures only 36mm, 11.90mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. Give it to Longines to add class and style to their rugged tool watches, as this Diver 36 gets a Milanese (mesh) bracelet. It’s easily mistakable for a dress watch considering its skinny profile and unisex appeal.

The Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.6) is remarkable for more than its sleek design, though. I love how its dial is caricature-like as it packs many functions into its portable 36mm case. For example, it has an inner bezel rather than a robust unidirectional bezel to stay thin and fashionable. And has distinct stick indices and mixed hour markers that make it even easier to read the time, despite the clutter. 

Additionally, with water resistance of up to 300 meters, the Legend Diver L3.374.4.50.6 proves you don’t need a 50mm thick case to go some distance underwater. It runs on a 45-hour power reserve in-house caliber L592.

5. Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18)

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18)

Starts from approximately $2,700

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is another relatively thin dive watch worth taking a shot at. It’s a sleek and fashionable diver of 40mm diameter and 13mm thick. I particularly like that you can make a statement wearing this watch on any outfit, whether a suit and tie or dressing down for a beach outing.

Aside from having a low-slung profile, Oris’s (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18) watch doesn’t really strike all the right chords for me. For a watch that is 13mm thick, you’d expect it to have some high water resistance, which is not the case. The watch only has a 10 bar water resistance which is quite good if you don’t intend to submerge it in water.

6. Seiko SNE573

Seiko SNE573

Starts from approximately $500

If you are not a fan of big dive watches or you have a small wrist, consider buying the Seiko SNE573 watch. It is small, only 10.6mm thick, and barely wide (38.5mm diameter). Although the watch is small, it is not uncomfortable.

The dial and bezel have legible numerals and markers with a LumiBrite coating. So, even underwater, you can tell the time clearly. It also has a very comfortable silicone rubber strap that doesn’t bite into or leave marks on your skin. Despite a small frame and entry-level price point, this Seiko SNE573 houses impressive features.

One standout feature is the solar-powered quartz movement, which is very accurate and long-lasting. When fully charged, it can last for up to 10 months. And with its 200m water resistance, you can descend with this watch into deep waters – just be sure to ascend in ten months.

7. NOVE Trident E009-02

NOVE Trident E009-02

Starts from approximately $370

Now, this definitely has to be the slimmest dive watch you’ll ever find. It is only 6.8mm thick, even though it has a relatively large 46mm case. So, if you want an extremely thin watch but with a huge face, the NOVE Trident E009-02 would be the perfect candidate for your collection. It’s lightweight and among the most affordable luxury dive watches on the market.

In addition to a slim profile, the NOVE Trident E009-02 has a unique three-level stopper bezel system. They are designed to help the bezel stay unidirectional and are easy to clean after underwater use. Note, though, that only the hour and minute hands are luminous. It may not be ideal for use in dark or low-light environments, as the hour and minute markers on the dial and bezel lack applied Superluminova.

8. Glycine Combat Sub (ref. GL0076)

Glycine Combat Sub (ref. GL0076)

Starts from approximately $1,300

Here’s another watch on our list of thin dive watches. Admittedly, the Combat Sub isn’t exceptionally thin compared to the NOVE Trident E009-02 or Seiko SNE573. But at 11mm thick, it more than paints the perfect picture of a thin dive watch. 

The case is 42mm in diameter and houses a very busy dial. Busy in the sense that there are 24-hour markers on the black dial – who cares about military time in this age? And only the 1 to 12-hour markers are visible in low-light conditions. So why include the other hour markers? If I’m a fan of military time, I’ll want to use it in the light and the dark.

But then, different strokes for different folks, right? Still, on the cluttered dial, there is a date window at the 3 o’clock position and many brand and model name engravings. The dial is a bit choked up.

My issue with the dial aside, the Glycine Combat Sub (ref. GL0076) is a high-performance watch. It has all the kicks and perks of true dive watches – a unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, water resistance, and powerful movement.

9. Mido Ocean Star 200 (ref. M026.430.11.051.00)

Mido Ocean Star 200 (ref. M026.430.11.051.00)

Starts from approximately $1,100

The Mido Ocean Star 200 (ref. M026.430.11.051.00) is also a top contender for those in the market for a thin dive watch. It has a thin case that is 11.8mm thick and 42.50mm wide. The case has a screw-down back, crown, and 20 bar water resistance.

What strikes me most about this watch is the dial’s simplicity. Don’t get me wrong; sometimes, complicated dials can be beautiful and functional. In fact, Mido has some watches in the Ocean Star collection with insane clutter.

But the simplicity of this model is quite intriguing. It features white stick markers and skeletonized hands on a black dial and bezel. Only the 15th, 30th, and 45th minutes on the bezel are numbered. Inside the Ocean Star, 200 is a COSC-certified Mido Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.621) with an 80-hour power reserve.

10. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 38mm

Starts from approximately $1,150

What’s more exciting to an enthusiast than a watch with an open case back? Probably a thin dive watch with the same case back or anyone with a worthy movement to display. Luckily, Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident Pro ticks both boxes at a price I’d like to call a steal.

This C60 Trident is an ultra-thin (11mm) and portable (38mm) masterpiece, sporting a lightweight polished stainless case and bracelet. It’s also highly customizable, with options to add an engraving or resize the bracelet for a token.

Not to mention, the bracelet is marine-grade stainless steel with micro-adjustment mechanisms (and screw links), a useful feature even top luxury watchmakers ignore.  The Trident’s dial and bezel are exceptionally stylish while staying rugged. It features a plain white dial, white markers and hands highlighted with black for contrast, and a black-on-white bezel with Arabic numerals.

One detail that particularly caught my eye was the Trident on the seconds hand. Finally, it uses an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, date display, and an Elaboré’ Colimaçoné’ finish.

11. Baltic Aquascaphe Black Cream

Baltic Aquascaphe Black Cream

Starts from approximately $735 

Next on our list of thin dive watches is the Baltic Aquascaphe Black Cream watch. Its stainless steel case is 39mm wide and 12mm thin. The watch offers a vintage charm with a modern performance. Its retro-inspired design draws inspiration from classic dive watches. However, it incorporates modern elements that make the watch safe and stylish.

The case and bezel are covered with double-domed sapphire glass. Being one of the toughest materials in the watchmaking industry, this solid sapphire glass is poised to protect the watch from scratches and breakage. So go ahead and surf the seas, knowing that your watch can take hard hits. Avoid bumping it intentionally into things because even the strongest materials have a breaking point.

In addition to a sturdy case and glass covering, the dial is powered by the iconic automatic winding Miyota 9309 movement, which has a 42-hour power reserve. This movement also powers the unidirectional rotating bezel and its 120-minute graduation.

12. Sinn U50 (ref. 1050.010)

 Sinn U50 (ref. 1050.010)

Starts from approximately $3,500

Sinn U50 (ref. 1050.010) is a mid-sized version of the highly durable U1 watch. It offers nearly all the benefits of the U1 version but in a 41mm case instead of the 44mm. The U50 combines the rugged durability and water resistance of the U1 with the sleek and slim profile of a dress watch – its case is only 11.15mm thick. 

But don’t be fooled by the aesthetics and slim profile. The U50 is a super functional instrument watch and one of the most rugged dive watches ever made. The case is made of submarine steel, an antimagnetic material that’s highly resistant to seawater corrosion and “tegimented” to prevent scratches.

And unlike conventional luxury dive watches, the U50 has a remarkable 500-meter depth capacity. It’s powered by an efficient Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 25 jewels and 28,800 running frequency.

Its dial and bezel have an eye-catching toolsy aesthetic. The contrast of orange and white markers on its matte black dial is an ode to legibility in and out of water. It’s an even more striking beauty when the dial’s luminescent applications come to life in the dark.

The only gripe is that it uses a leather band, which can be an advantage if you get the U50 for casual and formal dressing. However, you’d need to buy a Sinn rubber replacement for diving purposes. 

13. Orion Calamity Void

Starts from approximately $1,650

The Orion Calamity Void is a thin dive watch (11.3mm) with a bold face. It’s only 39.5mm but has a double-domed anti-reflective coating and shielding lug design that covers the crown. So while it may appear large, it can fit small wrist sizes and dress cloths.

The dial also accentuates its bold and masculine appeal. The black-on-black combination with the bezel, sharp white hour markers, and hands, and oversized orange seconds hand are far from a calamity. However, it has a high-gloss finish that shines on its satin-brushed case and bracelet, making it a choice evening watch. 

Furthermore, the Calamity has a 200-meter water resistance rating) and an exhibition case back. It displays the automatic Sellita SW300 movement with Geneva stripes and a gold Orion logo. Overall, the Orion Calamity Void is a mystifying combination of the hardiness of dive watches in a thin and stylish frame capable of dressy wear. 

14. Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer

Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer

Starts from approximately $2,100

This watch is a bad boy in every sense. It’s a true diver by design, with a case similar to an old diving helmet. While the case is 42mm across, it’s only 11.4mm thick and built with the toughest materials all around.

The Reef’s case uses the same 316L stainless steel as our number 1 pick, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue. And features a scratch-resistant zirconium oxide ceramic bezel with 3D graduations of 60 minutes. It’s the only watch on the list with a 3D effect engraving on the bezel.

The exceptional bezel glows in the dark with its Rehault-syle baton markers on its sunray-finished dial. You can take this beauty down to 300m, which is also impressive since most thin dive watches only have the standard 200m water resistance or less.

However, a patented micro-adjustment system sets the Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer apart from the crowd. This rubber strap has a patent clasp that allows seamless adjustment and safe lock in all conditions.

The Reef also has a stainless steel bracelet with screw links for easy adjustment to any wrist size. Further, inside the 11mm thin dive watch is a COSC-certified movement. It’s a Sellita SW300-1 with 56 hours of power reserve.

15. Ole Mathiesen Navy Diver 40 (ref. OM12.40A1.NA)

Starts from approximately $2,500

At just 10mm thick, the Ole Mathiesen Navy Diver 40 (ref. OM12.40A1.NA) is one of the thinnest dive watches on the market. But some of its features are less impressive than other thin dive watches on the list. Particularly, the 12-bar water resistance rating is too low. There are thinner watches with higher water resistance. So don’t attempt submerging this watch into deep waters. 

Despite its low water resistance, it is still one of the best thin dive watches on the market. The black dial is accented with white luminous indices allowing easy readability. And the case also has a tough crystal made from scratch-proof convex sapphire.

Conclusion

There are plenty of options if you’re in the market to own your first stylish and functional thin dive watch or add to your collection. But options start to shrink when you have a size, thickness, and design in mind. Otherwise, getting lost in a sea of slim dive watches is easy, and buying all or nothing is possible.

Regardless of the size or features you prioritize, you’ll find that these 15 models are the best options for your budget. Hopefully, this list informs you of the best thin dive watch for your style or points you to suitable alternatives.

Toughest Watches

15 Toughest Watches You Can Buy In 2025 (Across ALL Brands)

Huzeifa Jafferjee

January 30, 2024

Modern timekeeping by virtue of mechanical clocks was first introduced during the 13th century. Since then, innovation has taken its natural course to make timekeeping far more accessible to us. 

With the pursuit of accuracy and reliability, timekeeping devices have consistently evolved into more robust, tougher, and better-built instruments in the modern day. They have become essential tools capable of being used in the harshest and most alien environments known to man.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer

  • Titanium with an anodized aluminum bezel ring in a hematite to reflect Mars’ distinctive dust.
  • Quartz
  • 45mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

MARATHON

Marathon WW194013-S-DT-A Navigators

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 41mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

G-Shock

GWG2000-1A1 Master of G-Land Mudmaster

  • Resin and Stainless Steel
  • Quartz
  • 54.4mm

About Tough Watches

Prior to the 20th century, watches were mainly used by aristocrats and carried in a pocket in the form of pocket watches. They are now considered delicate, simply revealing that technology and modern use cases for timekeeping were not invented back then. 

By 1904, this changed with the launch of the Cartier Santos Dumont, the first wristwatch, pilot’s watch, and, as a result, the first tough tool watch.

Wartime would inspire more tool-oriented innovation across watchmakers to produce watches that could survive the elements. “Trench watches”, as they called them, became essential tools for survival. Water resistance was in its infancy during this era, with watchmakers like Hamilton experimenting with Canteen-styled crowns.

In 1953, we saw the dawning of the first dive watches invented by Blancpain and Rolex. The world’s fascination with underwater exploration proved to be the ultimate test of the toughness of wristwatches. To this day, water resistance is an essential characteristic of a tough watch.

By today’s standards, a tough watch must be built with durable materials, be antimagnetic, accurate, shock-resistant, water-resistant, and have its form follow function. Technology today has made tough watches abundant for us; their purpose, however, may vary based on their use case.

What to Look for When Buying Tough Watches

Aficionados will be familiar with identifying the unique characteristics watches of today make available to us in the form of toughness. Many popular models – like the Submariner, Explorer, Seamaster, SKX, and many more that have now become versatile daily drivers – have a proven tool watch DNA that often inspires and reassures our purchase.

Design & Materials

When considering the design and the materials used for tough watches, both characteristics must go hand in hand with the notion that form follows function. Tough watches are easy to identify for their intended purpose, be it diving, flight, fieldwork, or exploration. 

They are made available with different features such as dive or navigation bezels, crown guards or protectors, legible dials (with lume), protective grills, straps or bracelets, and rugged case shapes or sizes to withstand the elements it was designed for. 

Materials also stretch the imagination with variations in steels, bronzes, plastics, rubber, titanium, ceramics, and carbon composites in order to complement their design, purpose, look, and feel.

Build Quality & Durability

Build quality and durability in the form of case construction, accuracy, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, water resistance, and anti-corrosion are key aspects to consider when buying a tough watch. 

Even some $100 resin G-Shock models have carbon core guards for increased toughness, rigidity, and durability over time. Superior water resistance is usually the most favored characteristic in this segment, as higher water resistance often boasts a higher level of engineering implemented into a watch case design.

Price

Technology has made tough watches far more accessible in terms of price, with many variations of timepieces that can perform a challenging task or live a tough life. 

It may be a manual-wind Panerai or even a digital G-Shock Mudmaster; if your budget is deep or shallow, you can still match the specifications and get equal amounts of toughness with different novelties to be enjoyed by different watchmakers.

15 Toughest Watches in the Market

With that said, let’s have a look at the 15 best tough watches you can buy today:

Timex Ironman Original 30 Shock

The Ironman Original 30 Shock is a digital watch designed with outdoor athletes in mind and inspired by the original 1986 Ironman model offered by Timex. In its heyday, this was the Apple Watch Ultra, but today, it can be considered a timeless essential with its “unimposing” retro design, feature set, and price (of only $70).

It comes equipped with three main functions: a countdown timer, an Indiglo light-up dial (invented by Timex in the 90s), and an alarm function. For many, this will be all they need in terms of functionality. It has a 42mm resin case inspired in design by minimalism, a simple black/grey colorway, and uses pops of yellow text hinting at its outdoor-appropriate sportiness.

It is attached to a resin strap, making it perfect for outdoor activities and contributing to a weightless wearing experience. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for almost any sports environment.

Casio G-Shock Mudmaster GWG-2000

The GWG-2000 is the ultimate G-Shock, built to endure the harshest field environments. As its name implies, the Mudmaster’s party trick is its Mud-Resist structure push-buttons (now improved) that will never allow any mud, grit, sand, or concrete to enter your watch. 

This is the newest iteration of the Mudmaster, replacing the GWG-1000. In its evolution, it is now 1.9mm slimmer and 13 grams lighter than its predecessor, thanks to the usage of a carbon core guard structure—new to this series—that also improves its overall strength. 

It is the first G-Shock to feature forged carbon components, contributing to its lightness, toughness, and supercar-like aesthetics. Its rugged exterior design is inspired by professional gear, with fine texturing on its resin band, checked surface texture on its crown, and ribbed guards to protect its front buttons, amplifying its toughness.

Not only is it built and looks ready for the battlefield, but it also has an endless toolbox of features that you can count on when you need them most. Other aesthetically tough features include its sapphire glass and a highly legible (analog/digital) fully lumed dial with a “Super Illuminator” double LED light. Being one of Casio’s flagship models, it will cost you $800.

Victorinox I.N.O.X. Professional Diver (ref. 241813.2)

Victorinox is world-famous for its knives and tools. They also make tool watches, and for their 130th anniversary, they decided to make a watch that symbolizes and celebrates the tough tool ethos of the brand.

To achieve this, they devised a series of 130 extreme homologation tests, including a 10-meter drop resistance test, a temperature shock resistance test, and an 8-ton pressure resistance test (driving a 64-ton tank over a watch). The result was the I.N.O.X watch collection, standing for “Impact Neutralizing Object for the Xtremes”.

The 241813 is a Quartz Professional Diver variant, water resistant to 200m, that is ISO-625 certified. It is characterized by a chunky design with bulky dimensions of 45mm x 14mm, made entirely of sandblasted titanium, with crown guards and a 60-minute graduated unidirectional dive bezel with deep beveling reminiscing an octagonal shape for easy manipulation. 

Protected by sapphire crystal, it has a unique blue camouflage dial, fully lumed, with legible round and square numerals. Paying tribute to its nautical roots, it is equipped with a paracord strap that fits securely over a wetsuit. It also comes with a rubber strap. This watch is now discontinued (replaced with a steel variant) and can be found for upwards of $600. 

Citizen Promaster Tough (ref. BN0211-50E)

The Promaster Tough is a field watch from Citizen with a spec sheet that fully lives up to its name. It features a monocoque case made of a 2-piece construction without needing a caseback, offering extreme rigidity, shock resistance, and anti-magnetism.

It also uses a “Super Titanium” coating on its steel case and bracelet, making it 5 times harder than traditional stainless steel. With a 42mm diameter case featuring a flat raised bezel and crown guards, it offers the sportiness and legibility expected of a tough field watch.

Yet, thanks to its slimness of only 10.1mm and its well-made h-link bracelet, it is extremely versatile and can easily slide under a cuff. Protected by a sapphire crystal, its black, fully lumed dial adds to its versatility with an elegant and clean approach to its design.

Housed inside is Citizens own Eco-Drive technology (solar), allowing it to run purely on light. This is a discontinued model with an original retail price of $495.

Luminox Bear Grylls Survival Series 3741

The Bear Grylls Survival Series 3741 is an outdoor timepiece that embodies British adventurer Bear Grylls “survival” lifestyle. Made by Luminox, a brand that is famous for its cutting-edge luminosity and has been a partner of the Navy Seals for over 25 years, its watches have proven to be so tough and capable that they are considered “first-line gear”. 

The 3741 is a quartz-powered watch equipped with a chronograph function, a date, and a removable compass attached to its rubber strap. It sports an all-black aesthetic, with hints of orange and white adding contrast and sportiness. 

It has a 45mm by 14mm case made of Carbonox, a carbon composite that is six times lighter than steel and three times lighter than titanium and is shock and scratch-resistant. Attached is a matching Carbonox notched dive bezel that has 60-minute indications, a tachymeter scale, and a lume pip at zero.

Under its sapphire crystal is an intricate dial with a three-register chronograph layout and a date window at 6 o’clock. What is special about the Luminox lume is that it uses tritium gas tubes, providing a constant glow for up to 25 years. This watch is priced at $995. 

Marathon Official USMC Pilot’s Navigator (ref. WW194013BK)

Since 1941, Marathon has been supplying watches and timing instruments to the allied forces for military use. It operates from Canada, producing its timepieces in Switzerland. The Pilot’s Navigator was created in the 1980s as an answer to the U.S. armed forces, whose pilots needed a legible watch in the cockpit that was able to handle pressure changes and g-forces endured during flight.

This model is fully made with High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, finished in a matte black that gives it a stealth aesthetic. Its case is 41mm by 14mm, attached to a nato-strap, and offers versatility in its sizing due to its block construction, which helps the lugs feel like part of the case.

The case is asymmetrical, rounded off at 3 o’clock, allowing it to act as a crown guard. Its bezel is bi-directional with white contrasting 12-hour markings and a lume pip at 12 o’clock. Under its sapphire crystal is a black dial with white contrasting Arabic numerals in a 12-hour and 24-hour (military) layout.

It also features a date window at 4.30 and a red-tipped (fighter plane-shaped) second hand. It is powered by a quartz movement and is 50m water resistant. This watch is available for civilians to purchase for $480.

Damasko DSub50

Damasko, founded in 1994, has a history of making high-performance materials for the aviation industry; they also supplied watch cases to Sinn. The DSub50 is a heavily engineered serious dive watch from the German watchmaker, featuring a case made of austenitic German submarine steel, which is nearly twice the strength of regular steel, highly corrosion-resistant, and anti-magnetic.

It has a 43mm by 12.6mm case, and it wears smaller due to its short, steep lugs, allowing its rubber strap to contour to smaller wrists. Its case and bezel are coated fully with black DAMEST, and its uni-directional dive bezel has contrasting white 60-minute indications with a lume pip at zero. 

Under its sapphire crystal, it is complemented with a matching black dial (fully lumed), with white contrasting hands and markings, and without unnecessary text beside the brand logo, making it highly legible. There is a date window at 4.30 o’clock in black that also blends in well. It has an overall very clean design and makes for a serious-looking dive watch, perfect on a dark wetsuit.

This model is water-resistant to 300m and has a screw-in crown that can be used underwater. It is powered by the Damasko caliber A26-2 (with a 42-hour power reserve). It comes at a price of approximately $2,700, offering value for its uncompromising engineering and design. It is what we call a no-nonsense tool watch.

Hamilton Khaki BeLOWZERO (ref. H78585333)

Launched in 2008, the now-updated BeLOWZERO has become a mainstay in Hamilton’s Khaki collection. Many would know this watch to feature in two recent blockbuster films, The Martian, its main character, and Tenet, in which it was part of the narrative. They were sci-fi action plots set in the future, a tribute to the tough and futuristic design personality of this timepiece.

Made fully of titanium that is DLC-coated, in a case size of 46mm by 15.7mm, it is a large dive watch offering an incredible 1,000m of water resistance. Its design is submarine inspired, with 4 hex screws dominating the corners of its cushion-shaped case. 

It comes equipped with a rugged yet simple dive bezel. To reduce its visual heft, its crown guards are sunken into the profile of its case, and it also has short lugs. They are double stemmed, offering extra protection to the rubber strap it comes attached to. 

The combination of its lightweight titanium case, short lugs, and rubber strap allows the piece to wear smaller than its dimensions would suggest. It uses an H10 Movement with an 80-hour power reserve. It is priced at $1,845, great value for a super tough dive watch with movie credibility.

Sinn UX EZM 2B (ref. 403.030)

Sinn is a German tool watch brand that does not rely on a lot of marketing, yet they are hugely respected within the watch community for making the most incredible and over-engineered tool watches. The Sinn UX EZM 2B is no exception and is arguably the most hardcore dive watch on the market.

Its case, bezel, and bracelet are made entirely of German U-Boat steel (submarine steel), which is twice the hardness of regular 316L steel, scratch-resistant, and highly anti-corrosive. Its dive-bezel is TEGIMENTED (carbon diffused) and 1,200 Vickers hard, offering even more scratch resistance (nearly three times) than the rest of the watch. 

It is also a captive bezel, which means it is held on by screws rather than snapped on, making it more resilient to hard hits. The watch is completely media blasted, and due to its U-Boat steel, it has a champagne hue. Its dial is matte black, fully lumed, with white and red contrasts. The watch overall is easily recognizable and versatile for even a civilian lifestyle.

It has a case diameter of 44mm, purposefully sized to be legible underwater. With the HYDRO technology, it is one of the only timepieces outside of Ressence that is completely oil-filled, therefore having zero distortion to its dial and making it incredibly resistant to depth pressure.

This allows for a monstrous water resistance of 5,000m with a svelte case thickness of only 13.3mm. It is quartz-powered and has a price of $2,700. It is a watch so good that it has a cult following.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital II (ref. DC3036C-SA-BK)

Ball was founded in the United States in 1891 and made a name for itself by establishing the Railroad Standard, a timekeeping standard that was relied upon for the safe operation of the railroad industry. Today, Ball is a Swiss brand that produces its watches in Switzerland.

The Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital II is Ball’s expression of the ultimate explorer’s watch. It has a titanium case measures 45mm in diameter and 18.3mm in thickness. It is attached to a well-built titanium bracelet with a folding buckle and extension system, with great articulation and fitment on the wrist.

It is powered by an Automatic-Caliber BALL RR1404, which is essentially an ETA Valjoux 7750, modified to include a GMT function. Under a 3mm thick sapphire crystal, it has a black dial sporting a vertical 3-register chronograph layout with contrasting silver numerals, hands, an additional navigation scale, and an independent 24-hour scale in orange to match its orange GMT hand. 

Additionally, there is a date window at 3 o’clock with a magnifier lens for easy readability. Ball is famous for using tritium gas tubes, 39 of which are used on this model and feature on its hands, hour markers, and even its chronograph pushers.

Besides being antimagnetic and water-resistant to 100m, it features an Amoriser shock system to protect its movement in high-shock environments. This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of $5,300.

Breitling Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101B1E1)

Originally launched in 1985, the Aerospace was a super-accurate flight watch. It used an analog and digital display to provide a wide range of information that was impossible to obtain from an analog-only timepiece. This model is a refreshed iteration, and even today, it can be considered one of the few luxury watches that serve as true professional equipment to be used in the cockpit.

It is a titanium offering with a case diameter of 43mm, making it highly legible and sporty in appearance. It has a thickness of only 10.8mm, offering incredible versatility in wearing it even under a cuff. It is attached to Breitling’s Professional 3 bracelet with diagonal links that are iconic to the brand. It comes equipped with a unidirectional diving bezel attached by screws, offering more resistance to hits, which will be useful underwater with its 100m water resistance.

Its analog black dial is lumed, which helps with legibility in low-light conditions. It is complemented by two backlit digital displays that offer a host of information, such as a 1/100th of a second chronograph, perpetual calendar, countdown timer, 2nd timezone, alarm, and minute repeater, that can be operated in a user-friendly manner via its crown. 

Powering its technology is a SuperQuartz movement that is chronometer-certified and thermocompensated. It is currently discontinued and had an original retail price of approximately $4,400.

Tudor Pelagos (ref. M25600TB-0001)

The Pelagos, equipped with a snowflake dial, is the model that champions the legacy of the iconic Snowflake Submariner. It features a 42mm by 14.4mm titanium case equipped with a helium escape valve and pointed crown guards (lending aesthetics to vintage Snowflake Submariners).

It is attached to a titanium bracelet with an extension-equipped clasp. As a result, it is extra lightweight and offers a high-quality wearing experience for daily use or diving. Also included is a diving rubber strap.

This model is available in a phenomenal shade of blue, an updated tone of the color made popular by its Snowflake predecessor. It is equipped with a scratch-resistant matte ceramic dive-bezel that is fully lumed, combined with a fully lumed stepped dial using snowflake indexes, snowflake hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

The benefit of the snowflake layout is that it allows for less negative space on the dial and more surface area for luminosity. As a fully-lumed watch, it offers ultimate legibility in low-light conditions, fitting for a high-performance diver.

It is equipped with an in-house MT-5612 (COSC) calibre with a useful 70-hour power reserve. With a retail price of $5,000, it is an incredibly versatile and well-designed offering that is great value for money, something Tudor has built a reputation for.

Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer (ref. 318.90.45.79.01.003)

The first X-33 released in 1998 was a revolution of the iconic Moonwatch. Developed, tested, and qualified by the ESA (European Space Agency), it was more capable for NASA astronauts and cosmonauts to perform onboard activities on the International Space Station.

It was also dubbed the “Mars watch”. The X-33 Marstimer is Omega’s fourth attempt in this series. The difference from its predecessors is that it now tracks Mars time. The Marstimer borrows its design from the original Moonwatch. Like its X-33 predecessors, it sports a 45mm by 14.9mm case in Grade-2 titanium attached to a Grade-2 and 5 titanium five-link bracelet.

It has a new rotatable anodized aluminum bezel in a red hematite color meant to be reminiscent of the dust on Mars. This color can be found on its upper left pusher as well as on its black-to-red second hand. Like all X-33s, its main design cue is its analog and digital display, which allows for a vast number of functions.

New to this model is a Mars Time Coordinated function (accounting for 39 minutes and 35 seconds longer days on Mars than on Earth) and a solar compass, which allows tracking of true north on both Earth and Mars. It is powered by the Omega-5622. With a retail price of $6,400, this is a bold chapter in the space exploration legacy of the Speedmaster.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 (ref. 226627-0001)

The Yacht-Master is an alternate luxury diver from Rolex, embodying its ties with the sport of sailing. Released in 2023, the Yacht-Master 42 arrives as the brand’s second-only titanium offering, featuring a case and bracelet made fully of its proprietary RLX titanium.

Its 42mm case has a thickness of 11.6mm, with wonderfully integrated crown guards that are among the best seen in the industry. The case returns to chamfered edges, reminiscent of the aesthetics seen on the brand’s vintage models. Its bezel is bi-directional, with a matte black ceramic insert and raised polished numerals. 

This is matched to a matte black dial (fully lumed) that retains the famous and legible Submariner style template, with round plots and a Mercedes hand in white gold. Its markings are maxi-sized, offering more visibility than traditional Submariners due to its larger dial. 

It is fitted to an Oyster bracelet that is fully brushed like its case. Almost anything with an Oyster bracelet can be praised for its articulation and wearability; combined with its slim and proportional case and all-titanium construction (nearly 50% lighter than a regular steel 40mm Yacht-Master), this watch over-delivers. 

It is equipped with an in-house 3235 calibre, which is a Superlative Chronometer with a 70-hour power reserve. With a retail price of $14,000, it stands as a revolutionary model in the Rolex lineup, not shying away from experimentation to deliver us a truly modern luxury tool watch. It is quite a looker, fit for a luxury yacht or a sports yacht.

Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech™ (ref. PAM02979

Panerai’s inception as a watchmaker was influenced by the needs of tough men. It was in 1936 that the Italian Royal Navy commissioned the company to build a watch for their frogmen, who needed a way of keeping time in the murky depths.

These men rode torpedoes like bicycles as a means of competing with their Allies’ warships during WWII. Fast-forward to today and the Submersible serves as its true professional dive watch. The PAM02979 carries the form factor of the Luminor it was originally based on.

It carries the iconic security lock on the side of its case, which offers more impact protection than a simple shouldered crown. It has a 60-minute dive bezel and 300m of water resistance, two features reserved just for this model.

As a template for advanced engineering, this model is made of forged carbon, which is also used on the dial, giving it a tactical look that suits the hardcore nature of the watch. Its dial is clean and legible, featuring full lume. There is a date window at 3 o’clock and a small second counter at 9 o’clock. 

The watch is 47mm in diameter, a large size that will fit perfectly on a wetsuit or offer heavy wrist presence. It is attached via a quick-release system to a rubber strap with bellows and a pattern molded in to give it flexibility and a rugged look. It comes equipped with an automatic P.9010 calibre with a 3-day power reserve. $20,000 plus tax is the price to pay for the quintessential dive watchmaker’s most advanced piece.

Conclusion

As we venture into the unknown, our timepieces have now become vessels for our memories. Many watchmakers have built legacies on the journeys their creations have endured on pioneers’ wrists.  Innovation, a storied history, and sheer diversity in the application of modern-day timepieces reassure us that they can not only handle the harshest of elements but can even save our lives if needed.

Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, Exquisite Timepieces earns from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links. This helps support our website at no additional cost to you.

15 telemeter watches

Telemetry can be defined as using specialized equipment to send, receive, and measure data over a long distance. The equipment for the purposes of this article is the wristwatch. We will be reviewing 15 of the best telemeter chronograph watches.

Before we jump into the background of telemeter watches, watch complications are often focused on aesthetic design rather than function. As a result of modern technology, such as smartphones and smartwatches, wristwatches have become obsolete. 

For example, scuba divers typically use dive computers rather than dive watches for timing purposes. However, this is not to say wristwatches with interesting complications should no longer be produced. So let’s begin the journey of highlighting telemeter scale watches. 

About Telemeter Watches

The telemeter scale is based on the speed of sound in relation to distance, an example being calculating the distance from when the event first becomes visible to when it becomes audible. You may use a telemeter scale with a chronograph watch to determine your distance in various situations. Thus, telemeter scales tend to go hand in hand with chronographs due to the multiple timing capabilities.

Telemeter Watches Purpose

Soldiers used telemeter watches during World War II as it allowed them to determine their distance from their target. For example, a soldier would fire missiles and start the chronograph timer. Once the soldier heard the target being hit by the missile, they would stop the timer.

They would then read the telemeter scale of the wristwatch, and the reading would allow the soldier to know the distance they are from the target that was hit. Another instance where the telemeter scale may be used is to measure a lightning storm.

For example, one would start the chronograph once the flash of lighting can be seen and then stop once the sound is heard. The chronograph hand lines up with the telemeter scale, and one would then read the scale and know how far away the storm is.

The Best Telemeter Watches

Now let’s look at the specific telemeter watches.

Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope (ref. 329.30.43.51.03.001)

Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope (ref. 329.30.43.51.03.001)

With all the recent commotion of the Omega MoonSwatch, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a breath of fresh air because this is a Speedmaster without the hype. This timepiece combines the Speedmaster Moonwatch with Omega Chronographs of the 1940s. Our focus here will be the steel version of the Chronoscope.

The Chronoscope comes in at 43mm in diameter, 13.22mm thick, 48mm lug-to-lug length, and a lug width of 21mm. It wears excellently given the larger dimensions; the lug-to-lug length allows it to be maintainable on the wrist for medium to smaller-sized wrists. 

Also, the watch comes in three dial variants in the stainless steel models, a blue dial with silver sub-dials, a silver dial, and a panda configuration (silver dial with black sub-dial layout). The Chronoscope uses a two-register sub-dial layout with a snail dial design in the center.

The movement housed in this timepiece is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 9908. It is accurate to between 0 and +5 seconds per day variance, making this the most accurate watch movement on the list.

The only negative is the odd 21mm lug width, as 21mm straps are more difficult to source. Either way, this watch looks best on the stainless steel bracelet that Omega created.

Overall, I feel that Omega has produced a fine timepiece that strays slightly off the path from your standard Speedy watch. The Omega Chronoscope is priced at $8,600 (leather strap) or $9,000 (steel bracelet)  

Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Chronograph (ref. 5975R-001)

Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Chronograph (ref. 5975R-001)

Patek Philippe is part of the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and arguably the best watchmaker in the world. They are also renowned for their complications, including annual calendars, moon phases, and chronographs. 

The particular model we will review is the 175th Anniversary Chronograph in rose gold. Patek produced only 400 models in the rose gold version, making it an extremely sought watch, and even now, it rarely appears on the secondary market.

In terms of case sizing, the Patek is compact for a chronograph with a diameter of 40mm and 10.25mm thick. This means that it is extremely wearable for daily wear and can easily tuck under a tight cuff. 

The movement within the 5975R-001 is the caliber 28-520 base. This caliber maintains a power reserve of up to 55 hours. This movement features a column wheel and a flyback function that allows for continuous timing capability.

These features come together uniformly and establish the 5975R-001 as a premium chronograph and appropriate for the 175th anniversary edition timepiece. A critique of this timepiece would be its availability, given that it is an anniversary edition and is limited. Thus, if you intend to purchase this, the secondary market would be your best option.

Longines Telemeter Chronograph (ref. L2.780.4.18.2)

Longines Telemeter Chronograph (ref. L2.780.4.18.2)

Longines has an illustrious history dating all the way back to 1832. They were once considered a rival to Rolex before the Quartz Crisis, but times have changed. Nonetheless, this means that Longines has a rich heritage in its archives to refer to. Many of Longines’ recent releases have been stunning, and the Telemeter Chronograph is no different.

The design of the Telemeter timepiece is based on a chronograph watch produced by Longines in 1933. The watch measures a round case of 41mm and houses the Caliber L688, an automatic movement with a column-wheel chronograph. The column wheel within the movement makes this timepiece special, as this typically appears in high-end chronographs.

The Telemeter Chronograph features a sapphire crystal and an exhibition case to view the movement. The timepiece’s dial features a three-register sub-dial layout with a 4:30 date position. The dial is white lacquered with black numerals. The watch features blue steel Breguet hands that exude elegance and finesse.

A few negatives of this watch are the lack of water resistance and the date wheel. This watch is 30m water resistant, which means, at most, you can wear it while washing your hands. The second is subjective; the date wheel is positioned at 4:30 and is awkward. 

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Chronograph (ref. T142.462.16.032.00)

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Chronograph (ref. T142.462.16.032.00)

Tissot is currently hitting it out of the park with its heritage-inspired pieces, and this includes the Telemeter 1938 Chronograph. This timepiece is exquisite in design. It features a two-register sub-dial layout, measuring running seconds and chronograph minutes.

Two dial variants are available, black with gilt accents and a silver dial with blue hands. The watch is 42mm in diameter, 13.9mm in thickness, and 22mm lug width. The chronograph pushers are ovular in shape. There is no lume on the dial.

Thus, these design elements make it a dressier design. The timepiece features a sapphire crystal and an exhibition case for the wearer to marvel at or show others, as this could be a conversation starter.

The numbers and sizing lean towards a medium to large wrist size. However, I recommend trying on the watch in person before making a decision. The price of the watch is $2,025.00

Oris Big Crown Telemeter Chronograph (ref. 01 674 7569 4064-07 5 21 56)

Oris Big Crown Telemeter Chronograph (ref. 01 674 7569 4064-07 5 21 56)

The Big Crown series of Oris watches was built to be used as pilot military watches. The Telemeter Chronograph within the Big Crown series seems very fitting due to the nature of the telemeter scale and its association with the military. 

This is a true tool watch in form and function. Each detail of this watch has a reason for it, from the lume to the plexiglass crystal and more. We will highlight some of the key features below.

The Oris is 43mm in diameter, 21mm lug width, and features an exterior telemeter bezel insert. The crystal is actually a plexi-domed material; this harkens to vintage watches. 

I’ll add that plexiglass may scratch easily, but you can buff out scratches with Polywatch and a microfiber cloth. The large crown allows wearers with gloves to access and wind the movement. So, Oris considered a variety of users when creating this timepiece.

Negatives of this Oris timepiece are the odd lug width of 21mm and the lack of water resistance at 3 bar. One would hope that a military field watch could withstand harsh environments and be able to take a beating on the battlefield. The watch is priced at $2,025.00 

Eterna 1940 Chronograph Telemeter (ref. 7950.78.54.1261)

Eterna 1940 Chronograph Telemeter (ref. 7950.78.54.1261)

Eterna has had a significant impact on the watch industry. Without Eterna, there would be no ETA and no Swatch Group dominance within the watch industry. So we should appreciate their existence along with their Chronograph Telemeter timepiece.

This timepiece screams 1940s design and takes the wearer back to when watches were utilitarian tools. The telemeter has a case diameter of 42mm and 14.1mm thickness. It features a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, making it less reflective when worn outdoors or under intense lighting.

The Telemeter features large rectangular pushers and a large crown for easy access. There are two variants, one with a black dial and gilt accents and the other with a black dial and silvery white accents.

The movement is unique as it is a flyback chronograph. This means that the user can reset the chronograph timer without stopping it, which is convenient when timing something continuously. In my opinion, this is a beautiful timepiece.

The case is curvaceous, and it wears comfortably on the wrist. However, a couple of critiques are that it may be difficult to find an authorized dealer to try on Eterna watches and the 4:30 date wheel that disrupts the symmetry of the dial.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 (ref. CAR221A .FC6353)

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 (ref. CAR221A .FC6353)

The Carrera and Monaco are icons of TAG Heuer. But the Carrera Calibre 18 will be in the spotlight here. The Carrera has all the features you would want from TAG Heuer. There is no “TAG” on the dial; the dial features a panda configuration (silvery dial with two grayish sub-dial registers) and multi-faceted lugs associated with the Carrera case. 

Also, this watch is extremely wearable compared to the Monaco, which wears large due to the flat case back and slab-like sides. Let’s inspect the details of the Carrera.

The Carrera watch wears svelte with a 39mm case diameter. It features a sapphire crystal for protection. The dial layout is clean and simple with minimal information on the dial. The Carrera features a date wheel at the 6 o’clock position, which can easily be missed, thus maintaining symmetry on this gorgeous yet simple dial. 

The watch is 100m water resistant, which is a nice feature to have as it means you can technically swim with it. Overall, this timepiece maintains lovely vintage styling in modern form.

A negative aspect of this Carrera model is that it is discontinued. So, you would have to source this from a third party or secondary market.

Zenith Captain Chronograph (ref. 03.2117.4002/23.C704)

Zenith Captain Chronograph (ref. 03.2117.4002/23.C704)

Zenith is known for creating one of the first automatic chronograph movements in 1969, the El Primero. But Zenith is also known for their military pilot watches; we will inspect one of them here. 

The Captain Chronograph features a dual-register sub-dial layout. Therefore, unlike the typical three sub-dial layout, it is extremely legible, and the dial is not cluttered. There is plenty of lume on the dial of this Zenith to make it ideal for activities in the skies.

The watch measures 42mm in diameter, 12.5mm in thickness, and 50.2mm lug-to-lug length and features a sapphire crystal and an exhibition case back to view the gorgeous automatic movement. 

The winding crown is large for easy gripping, and the chronograph pushers are rectangular with vintage styling. The case of the Zenith is mainly brushed with very little polishing, which is appropriate as this is not a dress watch.

The Zenith features the 4002 caliber movement that allows for approximately 52 hours of power reserve and is a high-beat movement. An interesting aspect of this particular El Primero movement is that the second position of the crown (typically associated with adjusting the time) allows the user to adjust the date. 

Junghans Meister Telemeter (ref. 27/3380.02)

Junghans Meister Telemeter (ref. 27/3380.02)

Within Junghans, there are two iconic collections, the Max Bill and Meister collection. For this list, we will be looking at the latter collection, specifically the Telemeter chronograph watch. 

This modern watch draws inspiration from Junghans’ first telemeter and tachymeter scale chronograph watch created in 1951. The Meister Telemeter is a vintage style yet features a casual enough appearance. It is available in a black dial as well as a silvery white dial variant.

The case of the watch measures 40.8mm in diameter and 12.6mm thick. It comes with the option of a steel bracelet or leather band. I recommend the stainless steel bracelet because it is easier to source a good aftermarket strap than a bracelet. 

The watch comes with a domed sapphire crystal and exhibition case back, showing off the nicely decorated movement. The chronograph pushers are ovular in shape. It is also 50m water resistant, which is not bad for a dressier chronograph watch. Having experienced this watch in Asia, photos do not do it justice.

The sapphire crystal is highly domed, and it wears very comfortably on the wrist due to the compact case profile and slimness of the watch. I was tempted to purchase it at the time but held back. The watch retails for €2,290.00

Alpina Alpiner Chronograph (ref. AL-750SG4E6)

Alpina Alpiner Chronograph (ref. AL-750SG4E6)

Alpina is associated with classically styled sports and tool watches. The Alpiner Chronograph is part of that heritage. The Alpiner Chronograph is similar to the Heuer Carrera mentioned above as it features a silver dial with two grayish sub-dials.

The difference is that the sub-dials here are in a vertical arrangement, thus adding a nice touch to differentiate it from other chronograph watches. The case size is 41mm in diameter, and there is a sapphire crystal protecting the watch dial.

Upon first inspection, it appears that this Alpiner is a two-register sub-dial arrangement; however, it features three sub-dials. The running seconds sub-dial is nicely camouflaged at the 9 o’clock position. There is also a date wheel at the 6 o’clock position.

Despite the layout arrangement, this watch appears symmetrical. Moreover, a great added design element is the pump-style chronograph pushers. This is just tempting the wearer to start the chronograph timer of this timepiece.

Although this watch is discontinued in production, it is possible to source this through the secondary market, given the lack of demand for the brand. But a positive is that it can be bought at a bargain price.

Dan Henry 1939 Military Chronograph

Dan Henry 1939 Military Chronograph

Dan Henry is a well-known watch collector within the community. He set out to create great-looking watches with vintage styling. He also intended these watches to be accessible and affordable to a large audience. One of those timepieces is the 1939 military chronograph. 

According to Dan Henry, he wished to pay tribute to chronograph watches of the 1930s because of their beautiful dials, along with the vast amount of information on the dials. Surprisingly, Dan Henry watches offer enough variations in their watch models that will likely suit a lot of people. Let’s inspect the 1939 chronograph in more detail below.

In terms of sizing, the case measures 41mm in diameter, 13.9mm in thickness, and 49.2mm in lug length. The watch features a 22mm lug width, so you can easily swap out the strap for a host of aftermarket options. Thus, this watch wears beautifully and comfortably on the wrist. 

The timepiece features a sapphire crystal and is available with two dial color options; chocolate with gilts accents and silver with blue accents. There are two sub-dial registers on the dial. Also, date and no-date options are available for this timepiece, but I am drawn toward symmetry, so I’d recommend the no-date version.

Also, might I add that this is also the most affordable of all the watches discussed today due to it housing a quartz movement manufactured by Miyota. Lastly, the 1939 chronograph is limited in production so get them while you still can. The watch is priced at $270.00 

Hanhart Pioneer TachyTele

Hanhart Pioneer TachyTele

The Hanhart Pioneer TachyTele has a military history that dates back to 1939. According to Hanhart, the watch’s name comes from the two sets of scales on the dial, the tachymeter (used for measuring speed) and the telemeter. 

The Hanhart’s lower chronograph pusher has a distinctive red covering, and this was introduced in 1938 as a warning mechanism to prevent pilots from resetting the stop timer. The red color on the pusher was previously a red lacquer painted over the chronograph pusher, but it is now manufactured out of ceramic/ plastic to ensure longevity.

The Pioneer wears remarkably well, given the case diameter of 40mm and 15mm thick. The watch features a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The dial is available in off-white or black; both colors contrast well and are easily readable. 

The ETA 7753 automatic movement is the watch’s heartbeat, with 42 hours of power reserve. This is a good, tried, and tested movement. Overall this is a solid timepiece with excellent build quality, and it will impress the wearer.

I find it difficult to criticize this timepiece as it is a “Swiss Army Knife” given the 100m water resistance, screw-down case back, lumed hands, and numerals, along with a fluted rotating bezel. This is as much of a tool watch as one could buy without many compromises. Pricing of this watch starts at €1,990.00 

Poljot Strela Chronograph (ref. OF38CYS)

Poljot Strela Chronograph (ref. OF38CYS)

Many may have not heard of the brand Poljot Strela since the brand comes from Russia. The Poljot Strela Chronograph’s greatest claim to fame is being the first watch to go to space on the 18th of March, 1965, as it was used during the mission. 

So this is Russia’s equivalent of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. This was significant at that time because Russia was engaged with the USA in the Cold War and the “Space Race”.

The Poljot Chronograph watch has a case diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 14.8mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 46mm, thus making it a very compact and wearable watch on the wrist. The dial of the watch is white with a two-register sub-dial layout. The dial is unique as it features multiple concentric circle patterns on the main center dial and sub-dials.

The movement contained within the watch is the Poljot manual winding Caliber 3133. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back. It is nicely decorated with Geneve stripes. The movement features a power reserve of 48 hours, which is decent.

But the magic of manual winding watches is the wearer’s connection with the watch because you need to engage with it by winding it at least every 2 days; otherwise, it will stop.

Although this timepiece is limited to 300 pieces, it is also the most affordable mechanical watch on this list today, coming in at under $900. Several online stores sell this watch from Europe. So, if you are interested in purchasing it, then do some research before taking the “giant leap”. 

RGM 455-CE Classic Chronograph Enamel

RGM 455-CE Classic Chronograph Enamel

RGM is an American watchmaking company that was established in 1992 and coincidentally the year of my birth, making us both 31 years of age at the time of this article. Watches of the 1940s inspired the design of the 455 classic chronograph model. 

The particular model being highlighted is the enamel version. Enamel is a difficult material to work with, and this tends to result in more failures than successes due to the heat treatment applied to the dial. 

However, RGM has performed an outstanding job in their ability to produce the Grand Feu real glass-fired enamel dial. The white enamel dial compliments the steel blue hands. The center of the dial features the snail-like tachymeter scale, adding a subtle touch to this timepiece.

The case size of the watch is 38.2mm and 13.9mm thick. Lug-to-lug length is 47mm, and lug width is 20mm, which ensures plenty of aftermarket strap options. For me, these measurements are the sweet spot, as I prefer watches that are 50mm or under in lug-to-lug length. 

According to RGM, the automatic movement is decorated with Cote de Geneve stripes and perlage finishing. But a downside is that this movement is covered by the stainless steel case back. The watch retails for $7,950.00 

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph (ref. MB125581)

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph (ref. MB125581)

The final watch is the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph. This is arguably the most unique in design and function. As this is a Monopusher chronograph, there is only one pusher on the watch that controls the chronograph timer. The pusher is an extension of the crown. 

In addition, the 1858 line of watches is part of the high-end range of the Minerva watch collection from Montblanc. This collection is gaining more attraction, and what better way to start than with their Monopusher Chronograph.

The timepiece has a 42mm case diameter, and the stainless steel case is finished immaculately with satin brushing. The dial features two tones, namely black and cream/ beige color. There are two sub dials on the dial, making it simple and convenient to read from. 

This watch features a sapphire dome crystal that shows off the vintage style. The timepiece features lume on the handset and numerals. The Monopusher is also 100m water resistant. In my opinion, these features help to make this timepiece a great GADA watch (Go Anywhere Do Anything).

A negative of this watch is the branding; Montblanc watches are not that popular. But this means discounts can be obtained on their timepieces. This Monopusher Chronograph sells for $5,400.00  

Conclusion

In conclusion, watches with telemeter scales are not exactly a new or groundbreaking technology. Those who appreciate the chronograph complication along with the scale will likely do so for aesthetic reasons. The watches listed above are not intended to be a full guide of telemeter scale watches.

But they are a gateway into telemeter timepieces. And to end on a quirky note, John F. Kennedy once stated that “we must use time as a tool, not as a couch”, and so a reminder that watches are made to be used as tools.

Best Seiko Tuna Watches

10 BEST Seiko Tuna Watches That You Can Buy in 2025

Abdullah Chang

January 20, 2024

While tuna might hold the record for being the world’s most consumed fish, I can understand why the general population might be hesitant to wear a watch called the Seiko ‘Tuna’ on their wrists. It’s not necessarily the most appealing nickname for a timepiece.

In this article, I want to check out some of the popular Seiko Tunas from the brand’s catalog. I’ll also briefly introduce the world of the Tuna and understand the differences between the MANY variations offered.

What’s So Special about the Seiko Tuna

The Tuna’s history is one of the most impressive yet overlooked within Seiko’s dive watch offerings. The Tuna dive series was introduced in 1975 and has been improving in terms of specifications throughout the years. Seiko has created dive watches since 1965. However, it all changed when the company received a letter from a professional saturation diver from Kure City in Japan.

According to him, several Seiko divers’ watches faced problems with retaining Helium gas, which would increase the inner pressure and pop the crystal, destroying the timepiece. From then on, Ikuo Tokunaga and his team of engineers sought to create the ultimate professional dive watch. Thus, the Tuna design was born. What makes the Tuna iconic is its shrouded case design.

This unconventional design feature was Seiko’s answer to the Helium Escape Valve (which helps prevent the watch from enduring damage during saturation diving, specifically by allowing helium gas to escape during the decompression process). Instead of including a Helium Escape Valve, Seiko invented a new case shape, which, combined with its L-type gasket, made for an almost impenetrable watch.

Why Is It Called ‘Tuna’?

The Tuna is just a nickname adopted by Seiko enthusiasts on a forum back when the internet was still in its infancy. This nickname has little to do with any overlaps in the characteristics between the fish and the actual watches but was instead inspired by the case design that resembled an open tuna can.

Differences between the Seiko Tuna Models

Seiko has released several variations of Tunas since its first release in 1975. You’d be surprised to discover the sheer number of differences that watches within the same design family can have between them.
With variations between different case dimensions, colorways, materials, straps, water resistance, movements, and prices, the options are truly endless! But one thing is for sure – there’s a Tuna for everyone!

General things to know about the Seiko Tuna

  1. Like the nickname ‘Tuna’, several other nicknames are given to certain models (e.g., Baby Tuna, Darth Tuna, Emperor Tuna, etc.). All of these adopted aliases are based on specific characteristics of the models in question.
  2. Unlike traditional divers, the Tuna watches wear much smaller than the case size would suggest. This is due to the nearly non-existent lugs that inevitably result in the timepiece having an overly rounded case format.
  3. All the Tuna models come with protective shrouds on the case, which are constructed with different materials for different models.
  4. The Tuna falls under Seiko’s Prospex (Professional Specifications) line, with many models also falling within the Marinemaster collection. As a result, you can find a wide range of water resistance within the Tuna line, starting at 200 m and going up to a whopping 1000 m.
  5. As capable divers, all the modern Tuna models come with unidirectional bezels, screw-down crowns, and one of the best lume applications in the watch industry – Lumibrite!

Popular Seiko Tuna Watches From The Past

Since the first ever Seiko Tuna in 1975, the collection has had several different iterations, each being unique in its own way. Several models, in particular, are very rare and thus coveted by collectors. Here are some of the most popular and sought-after Tuna references from the past:

The “Grandfather Tuna” ref. 6159-7010

The “Grandfather Tuna” ref. 6159-7010

The first ever Seiko Tuna was released in 1975 and has since been dubbed the “Grandfather Tuna”. The ref. 6159-7010 was a big and bulky dive watch made to withstand the harshest conditions. It featured over 20 patents and is one of the few Tunas powered by a mechanical movement, the caliber 6159.

Due to its unique nature, the Grandfather Tuna remains one of the market’s most expensive and highly collectible Tunas. To celebrate its 25th anniversary, Seiko released the SBDX005 in 2000, a watch that was limited to 1000 pieces and shared many design philosophies with the Grandfather.

The “Golden Tuna” ref. 7549-7009

The “Golden Tuna” ref. 7549-7009

The “Golden Tuna” family was the second generation of the Seiko Tuna. The first Golden Tuna (ref. 7549-7009) was released in 1978 and got its nickname from its nitride-plated titanium case that had a distinct gold color. The watch was also slightly smaller than the Grandfather and featured a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one.

There have been several Golden Tuna references throughout the decades; however, the original remains one of the most collectible ones. Its desirability is further aided by its brief appearance in the 1981 James Bond movie “For Your Eyes Only”.

The Seiko “Arnie” ref. H558-5000

The Seiko “Arnie” ref. H558-5000

Another movie icon and a unique timepiece is the Seiko Tuna ref. H558-5000, mostly known as the “Arnie” or “Arnold”. The watch got its nickname from famous actor Arnold Schwarzenegger, who used to wear several versions of this watch in some of his popular movies.

This particular Seiko watch features the Tuna case design, albeit in a smaller frame of about 45mm. However, it’s still a large watch that can withstand almost anything you throw at it. What makes it stand out, though, is its unique Ana-Digi layout, with an analog dial and a small LCD on the top that displays the day and date.

The Best Seiko Tuna Watches You Can Buy Today

Seiko SUT403P1

Seiko SUT403P1

The SUT403P1 is the perfect gateway into the Tuna line-up, offered in one of the smaller case sizes within the Tuna design format. This model is part of Seiko’s new ‘Street Series’, which is a bit more experimental and playful with colorways and dial textures than the traditional Tunas. 

The Seiko ‘Street Series’ is a relatively recent collection within the Prospex line that re-introduces the Tuna’s popular case design, making it fancier. With a fully stainless-steel case that comes in at just under 40 mm, V131 solar-powered movement, along with 200 m of water resistance, this is truly a value-packed ‘Mini Tuna’.

It’s also much more versatile than the traditional Tuna because of its smaller case size and dark blue and beige colors. When paired with a smart-casual outfit, these features present the option to be dressed up without looking out of place.

  • Movement: Solar V131 (6 months battery when fully charged)
  • Water resistance: 200 m / 660 ft
  • Diameter: 38.7 mm
  • Crystal: Hardlex
  • Price: $500

Seiko SNE547P1

Seiko SNE547P1

The SNE547P1 is another Tuna model from the brand’s recent “Street Series” collection. It comes in a black and forest-green colorway, combined with orange accents on the second hand, crown, and under the bezel insert. Like SUT403P1, this model has also considered a gateway into the Street Series ‘Safari Edition’. However, there are a few key differences between both these models.

Unlike the V131 caliber housed within the SUT403P1, this watch houses the V157 solar-powered movement, which comes with an impressive 10 months of power reserve when fully charged. It also features a date window at 4 o’clock and wears much larger with a 46.7 mm case diameter and a height of 12.6 mm.

  • Movement: Solar V157 (10 months battery when fully charged)
  • Water resistance: 200 m / 660 ft
  • Diameter: 46.7 mm
  • Crystal: Hardlex
  • Price: $500

Seiko SRPE29J1

Seiko SRPE29J1

Alternatively, you could also go with the SRPE29J1. This time, the watch comes with mostly beige elements combined with black accents. Unlike the solar-powered movements seen in the previous two models, the SRPE29J1 is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 4R36, which is considered a solid, workhorse movement.

This model also comes with a stainless-steel case with a hard coating, making it highly durable and offering a more premium feel. This is a great, attainable model with a mechanical movement within the Street Series. Combined with Seiko’s very own Hardlex crystal (which is more robust than the traditional mineral crystal) and the hard coating on the stainless-steel case, you can wear this as a daily watch without worrying about scratching the case.

  • Movement: Automatic 4R36 (with approx. 41 hrs of power reserve)
  • Water resistance: 200 m / 660 ft
  • Diameter: 43.2 mm
  • Crystal: Hardlex
  • Price: $550

Seiko SRPH77

Seiko SRPH77

While the Seiko ‘Tuna’ has traditionally been less ‘explorative’ with its dial (to maximize clarity), Seiko has broken that general ‘rule’ by giving us a taste of its legendary dial-finishing techniques in this SRPH77 Special Edition. According to Seiko, this release is a tribute to the brand’s ‘Save the Ocean’ initiative, which aims to assist with environmental research and ocean conservation.

The finishing on the dial resembles the deep blue ocean, achieved through a gradient blue color with brushed strokes. The swimming penguins on the dial act as a subtle yet clever nod to the brand’s environmental initiative.

Whether it’s the radially engraved stainless-steel bezel or the impressive finishing on the dial, the details on this watch make it appear and feel significantly more premium than its price would suggest, making it a worthy contender to consider.

  • Movement: Automatic 4R35 (approx. 41 hours of power reserve)
  • Water resistance: 200 m / 660 ft
  • Diameter: 43.2 mm
  • Crystal: Hardlex
  • Price: $550

Seiko S23633

Seiko S23633

The S23633 is a mid-sized, no-nonsense Seiko ‘Tuna’, featuring professional-grade specifications. Coming in with a stainless-steel case size of 47.7 mm, with added super hard coating for additional durability, the S23633 is undoubtedly a robust ‘mid-sized’ offering within the Tuna line.

Inside the tough, shrouded case, you have Seiko’s in-house quartz caliber 7C46 with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and an impressive 5-year battery life, making this a perfect ‘wear and forget’ type of watch.

But with features like the 300 m / 1000 ft of water resistance and a sapphire crystal (with inner reflective coating), this model is well-suited for someone looking for a serious dive watch but without exorbitant wrist presence.

  • Movement: Quartz 7C46 (high-torque caliber)
  • Water resistance: 300 m / 1000 ft
  • Diameter: 47.7 mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Price: approx. $1,800 (GPB 1,500)

Seiko SBBN047

Seiko SBBN047

The SBBN047 (also known as S23631) offers all of the professional Prospex diver specifications but in an extremely lightweight one-piece case structure. This model is dubbed the ‘Darth Tuna’ because of its monochromatic appearance, which gives it a stealthy look. It is on the larger side with a 49.4 mm case diameter. But, thanks to the Tuna design format with nearly non-existent lugs, the watch wears much smaller and will easily fit most wrists.

This is a professional Tuna, capable of 1000 m / 3300 ft of saturation diving, and comes in a titanium inner case and ceramic shroud that’s treated with Seiko’s proprietary Dia-shield hard coating, which provides additional scratch resistance and durability to the DLC-coated case. This is undoubtedly one of the most popular and collectible Tunas. Unfortunately, as it is a JDM model (and a highly coveted one at that), it’s not the easiest to get hold of.

  • Movement: 7C46 (high-torque quartz)
  • Water resistance: 1000 m / 3300 ft
  • Diameter: 49.4 mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Price: $1,800-$2,000

Seiko S23635

Seiko S23635

In 2021, Seiko released the S23635, a special watch to commemorate the 35th anniversary of the 1986 Quartz Diver. The S2365 is part of Seiko’s Limited Edition release, celebrating a landmark technological achievement of the 1986 release.

The 1986 Quartz Diver combined the Tuna’s original design format with 1000 m of water resistance and a ground-breaking quartz movement. This unique combination of highly advanced technologies (of the time) resulted in the birth of the new and improved Tuna, which was much more robust and accurate than the original Tuna.

The S2365 was limited to only 1200 pieces at the time of its release. The watch comes with a beautiful gradient blue dial, mimicking the ocean’s depth (i.e. darker at the bottom and lighter at the top). The case is constructed with a titanium inner case and a ceramic protective shroud on the outside and comes with two pairs of extra-strength silicone straps, which provide additional durability for deep-dive expeditions.

  • Movement: 7C46 (high-torque quartz)
  • Water resistance: 1000 m / 3300 ft (saturation diving)
  • Diameter: 49.4 mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Price: $2,600

Seiko SBDX014

Seiko SBDX014

If you want to go all out with the optimum specifications, you can get within the Seiko Prospex ‘Tuna’ family, go for the SBDX014, also known by its notorious nickname… the ‘Emperor Tuna’.

With the SBDX014, you’re getting a titanium shroud with a rose gold-plated ceramic case and an outstanding water resistance of 1000 m. However, this Marine Master comes in at a larger case of 52.4 mm diameter and a height of 17.2 mm, making this one of the largest offerings within the ‘Tuna’ lineup.

The rose gold-plated inner ceramic case, crown, and screws give this model a more premium look, not a common feature ordinarily seen in the Seiko Tuna models. This fan-favorite JDM model is priced at JPY 350,000 on Seiko Japan’s website (approx. $2600 today).

  • Movement: Automatic 8L35 (approx. 50 hours of power reserve)
  • Water resistance: 1000 m / 3300 ft
  • Diameter: 52.4 mm
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Price: approx. $2600 (JPY 350,000)
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