Let’s be honest with ourselves—watch collecting is a niche hobby. In today’s day and age, most people wear smartwatches, and if they happen to have a “nice” watch on, it’s usually something that ticks from a department store.
Not that I’m hating on quartz watches or fashion brand watches. I’m not. I just have to remind myself, sometimes, that perspective is important in trying to engage an audience with important information.
If you surveyed a room of one hundred “watch civilians,” I’d guess the following: at least 95 out of 100 could easily recognize a Rolex; at least 50 had owned a watch at some point in their lives—including cheap cereal box watches from the nineties; about 15 would consider acquiring an expensive watch as a milestone purchase one day, with virtually all of them ultimately settling on a Rolex.
Such is the iconic status of Rolex. It is truly one of the most recognizable brands today, regardless of the industry. And so, being a “watch guy,” I am often asked the inevitable: “What entry-level Rolex should I purchase?”
The question carries weight—because with Rolex, it’s never just about telling time but rather about finding the perfect timepiece for your needs. Heavy is the crown and heavier still is the choice…
The Rolex Explorer Collection
The Explorer is my favorite Rolex—period. I love the mountains and the outdoors, and something about a robust three-hander without complications just gets me going.
The Rolex Explorer’s claim to fame came in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore Rolex Explorers during their historic ascent of Everest.
This iconic moment cemented the watch’s reputation as a reliable companion for those who push the boundaries of exploration. With its straightforward design and dependable build, the Explorer continues to honor that legacy, offering a blend of ruggedness and elegance that appeals to those who appreciate both adventure and heritage.
Today, the standard Explorer is available in 36mm and 40mm, fitting the vast majority of wrists out there, both male and female. The 36mm can be had for $7,350, and the 40mm retails for $7,800. If you are interested in adding a bit of “pizzazz” to your wrist, then you should opt for the two-tone explorer, available in 36mm and retailing for $12,700.
Of course, if we are discussing the Explorer collection, we have to mention the iconic Explorer II. First released in 1971 with the reference 1655, it wasn’t until the reference 16550, introduced in 1985, that the Explorer II gained a true GMT function, allowing the wearer to independently set the 24-hour hand to track a second timezone.
Since then, all subsequent Explorer II models have retained the GMT functionality, making them more versatile for travelers. Available solely in a 42mm stainless steel case, the current Explorer II can be purchased with either a black or white dial for $9,750.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection
Essentially the “foundation” of Rolex, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is often the first Rolex many people experience, and for good reason.
It’s the perfect blend of luxury and flexibility—a watch that can be easily worn with a pair of jeans or a suit. Its name comes from Rolex’s Oyster case, introduced in 1926 as the world’s first truly waterproof wristwatch.
Subsequently, in 1931, Rolex added its Perpetual self-winding movement—hence the name “Oyster Perpetual.” So, while the Oyster Perpetual wasn’t Rolex’s first watch, it was the watch that truly laid the groundwork for the brand.
Most Rolex watches today are technically Oyster Perpetuals in the sense that they have an Oyster case and a Perpetual movement. But the simple Oyster Perpetual model remains the purest version of Rolex’s legacy.
The Oyster Perpetual comes in a variety of stylish colors, with green being one of my favorites! The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is offered in 41mm and 36mm variations for men, with smaller 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm options also available.
This watch is crafted with a stainless steel case and a COSC-certified automatic movement, making it both robust and precise.
Don’t be tricked by the nomenclature: The Oyster Perpetual is very capable; with 100m of water resistance and Rolex’s legendary build quality, it can be a “Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything” (GADA) watch.
With a starting price of around $5,650 for the 28mm version and reaching up to $6,500 for the 41mm, the Oyster Perpetual is a great value proposition, especially when considering that these watches really don’t lose their value.
Rolex Explorer vs Oyster Perpetual – How to Choose
Ultimately, you can’t go wrong with the Explorer or the Oyster Perpetual, regardless of size, model, or case materials. Modern Rolex watches are built to extraordinary standards—they truly stand the test of time and can be passed down from generation to generation.
Don’t believe me? Take a look at the price of vintage Explorers and Oyster Perpetuals. They are highly sought after and usually priced above the MSRP of when they were first sold.
So here are some questions you need to ask yourself. Do you travel a lot? If so, does a GMT make sense to you? Do you like larger, more robust watches with rotating bezels? Then maybe you should take a look at the Explorer II, which is extremely sought after, especially for business executives on the go.
Are you an outdoorsy person who needs a rugged yet elegant watch? Do you want more options in terms of sizing while still maintaining a utilitarian style? You should take a look at the Explorer.
My preference is for 36mm, but I have 6.5-inch wrists, which is on the lower end of the average for men. Consider that “smaller” watches are currently in, and historically, a smaller watch will remain sought after, even during “larger” watch wearing trends. And if you want something bigger, the 40mm is available.
Do you like to express your style with color and flair? Or, perhaps, you desire a watch that flies under the radar while maintaining the quality and heritage of Rolex?
You should definitely opt for the Oyster Perpetual, available in a multitude of colors, with the “Celebration” dial being the loudest, and a traditional champagne or black dial is classic, understated, and versatile.
Conclusion
Ultimately, the best thing about watches and fashion is that there is great fluidity to them. It comes down to the three p’s: preference, purpose, and personality. It comes down to you.
The Explorer and the Oyster Perpetual are two sides of the same coin—both unmistakably Rolex, yet designed for different kinds of watch lovers. If you’re drawn to the idea of a watch with a sense of adventure, a tool built for the outdoors, something rugged yet refined, the Explorer is a perfect fit.
It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t just sit on your wrist—it becomes part of your story. Whether you’re hiking, traveling, or just appreciating the craftsmanship of a well-built timepiece, the Explorer never feels out of place.
But maybe you want something simpler, something that flies under the radar while still carrying all the prestige of the crown.
The Oyster Perpetual is pure Rolex—no frills, no complications, just a timeless design that works with anything. It’s an everyday watch in the best way possible, and with its range of colors and sizes, it lets you express a bit more personality.
At the end of the day, there’s no wrong choice—just the right watch for you.
Ahh—yes, Rolex. One of the most storied brands in the world, recognizable even to people who have never put a wristwatch on, nevermind a luxury timepiece. Rolex is arguably the most celebrated watch brand in the world, with its green backdrop, iconic crown, and gold embossed lettering.
And, admittedly, no Rolex is as famed as the Submariner, worn by Sean Connery during his Bond tenure. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides.
And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake.
And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolex Submariners than I’d care to admit.
But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus.
So, before you take the plunge on a Rolex Submariner, let’s make sure you’re not treading in counterfeit waters.
The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex Submariner
Watch Price
Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which can be challenging even on a good day? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP—period.
So, if someone is offering you a Submariner for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?
Watch Weight
A reliable way to spot a fake Submariner is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits.
This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, with the Submariner offered in 904L stainless steel, 18k white and yellow gold, or two yellow Rolesor (two-tone Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold).
Older Rolex Submariners might feature 316L stainless steel before Rolex transitioned to 904L in the late 1980s, as well as 14k gold for certain U.S. market models before the brand standardized 18k gold.
On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing.
Movement
One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex Submariner is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake.
New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day.
If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine.
However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. In the case of a “super clone,” an AD can help you with the verification process.
Caseback
Rolex Submariner casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of a polished outer circle with a brushed center; the caseback is devoid of engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Genuine Rolex watches have serial and model numbers engraved on the case between the lugs, not the caseback.
If you find such markings on the back of the case, it’s a red flag. A real Rolex caseback is made of high-quality stainless steel with a very precise, smooth finish. Fake casebacks might feel or look a bit off in terms of construction quality or the material used.
Cyclops
The Submariner reference 126610LN comes with a date and cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal.
The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant.
Many fake Rolex Submariners have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner.
When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all, really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.
Crown Markings
Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns, and the design and execution of them. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward.
A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jeweler’s loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown.
Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with the case material. Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner.
Serial Numbers
Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. On pre-2007 Submariners, the serial number is typically found between the lugs at the 12 o’clock position instead, which is an important distinction for vintage Submariners.
The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving!
Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches.
Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.
Dial Details
Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing.
Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye.
And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!
Hands
The Rolex Submariner features Mercedes hands, which is one of the defining design elements of the watch.
The term “Mercedes hands” refers to the distinctive shape of the hour hand, which has a characteristic pointed triangle at the end, resembling the Mercedes-Benz logo. When checking the authenticity of a Submariner, the hands can reveal a lot.
First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious.
Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off.
The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel (depending on the model). If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.
If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake.
I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch.
Crystal Etching
Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal of a modern Submariner.
This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately.
If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake. One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface.
This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such, even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.
Water Resistance
Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory.
While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.
Bezel (both inner and outer)
The bezel on a Rolex Submariner, both inner and outer, is a great indicator of authenticity. The outer bezel, on modern models is made of ceramic and boasts perfectly sharp, crisp markings that won’t fade or scratch easily.
On older models, you’ll find an aluminum bezel, which may show some wear or fading over time—something to keep in mind when buying vintage. The inner bezel, or rehaut, is where Rolex places its signature engraving, always sharp and precise.
Counterfeiters often fail to replicate this detail, either with poorly executed markings or a lack of distinctive engraving entirely. The bezel’s rotation should feel smooth and effortless, with no play or resistance, a feature that’s difficult to fake.
Are Fake Rolex Submariner Watches Worth It?
No!
I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit Submariner. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success, and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so.
There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake.
With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex, but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market.
Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.
How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex Submariner
Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex Submariner—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Submariner, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex.
This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock draw, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex.
Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!
Conclusion
If you want to own a Rolex Submariner, and you took the time to read this article, it’s likely that you are doing your homework and care about owning an authentic piece of Rolex history—so kudos to you!
Watch collecting is truly a joyful journey, and the research and literature leading up to your purchase is always enjoyable, or at least it is for me! Please don’t hesitate to reach out to our experts here at Exquisite Timepieces, especially if you are on the market for a pre-owned Rolex Submariner. We will always point you in the right direction!
If you’re anything like me, then stepping onto the green, puffing a nice Maduro cigar, and swinging a golf club is the perfect Saturday afternoon. I would wear a dive watch, or something durable—like a GADA watch—for the longest of times when golfing.
One day, my buddy Mark had this shiny new toy on his wrist. It wasn’t the usual culprit, an Apple watch, but something entirely different. He told me it was a “golf watch.” After seeing his improved play, I decided to invest in a golf watch, and I haven’t looked back since…
A Quick Look Back: The Evolution of Golf Watches
In the olden times, golfers relied on yardage markers and their caddies for information and strategy for a course that they were playing. Initially, “golf watches” often had golf branding or themes, but lacked any golf-functionality whatsoever.
In the early 2000s, digital quartz watches with golf functionality began to make an appearance, with the Timex Scoremaster Golf 18 being a great example of the intersection of timepieces and golf-related technology. The Scoremaster Golf 18 allowed golfers to track scores, measure distances, and even keep a tally of their strokes during a round.
By 2009, more sophisticated GPS technology with greater functionality began to flood the market, with Garmin being one of the first companies to release a true smart golf watch with GPS technology—the Garmin Approach G3.
Fast forward to today, and we’ve got sleek, high-tech watches that provide real-time data, GPS mapping, and performance analytics. The journey from basic timepieces to advanced golf companions has been nothing short of impressive.
Top 10 Best Golf Watches
Sometimes it’s hard to find exactly what you are looking for, but I am happy to share with you today, dear reader, my top 10 golf watches currently on the market. Whether you are trying to keep track of your shots, analyze your swings, or map out and view thousands of different courses, the following watches are worthy of your attention.
So grab your clubs, strap on your watch, and get ready to tee off with the best of the best—these watches are sure to help you drive your game to new heights!
1. Garmin Approach S70
The Garmin Approach S70 tops this list as it is a premium device designed for the most discerning of golfers who want accurate data and functionality for any course. The watch features a superbright 1.4-inch AMOLED touchscreen display in full color.
With over 43,000 preloaded CourseView maps worldwide, the Garmin Approach S70 is the ultimate companion for golfers who need detailed hole layouts and precise distance measurements. It also has a Virtual Caddie feature, which suggests club recommendations depending on conditions and course.
Additionally, the S70 features full smartwatch functionality for working out, sleeping, fitness, and messaging, making it ideal for daily wear. With an impressive battery life of 16 hours, a ceramic bezel, and lightweight construction, the Garmin Approach S70 is a no-brainer, especially at its MSRP of $699.99.
2. TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Golf Edition
If you are like me, then golf might have been your entry point into the luxury Swiss watch game—thanks Tiger Woods. I remember seeing the Tiger Woods ads as a teenager and immediately deciding that I would own a TAG Heuer one day.
It shouldn’t come as a surprise, then, that I am including the TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Golf Edition on this list. This lightweight golf watch, thanks to a titanium construction, features a 42mm or 45mm case, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and an ultra-high resolution OLED touchscreen.
The watch comes with cutting-edge software, preloaded with maps of over 40,000 golf courses, automatic shot tracking, scorekeeping, 3D visuals, and a full range of smartwatch functionality.
The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Golf Edition also includes a unique scorekeeping system that syncs with the TAG Heuer mobile app for post-game reviews. For superior comfort, on and off the links, the watch features a white rubber strap with a built-in ball marker.
It also has a robust battery life of 24 hours. I know what you’re thinking…okay all of this functionality and the Tag Heuer name. How much are we talking about here? $1,750 for the 42mm and $1,950 for the 45mm—a real value proposition, all things considered.
3. Garmin Approach S62
The name Garmin is synonymous with technology, GPS systems, and wearable tech; it’s no coincidence that this list features no fewer than 4 Garmin Golf Watches. Again…they make good stuff, people. The Garmin Approach S62 is a notch below the S70 but is still loaded with amazing features and technology.
It has a large 1.3-inch color touchscreen, able to be seen in any and all lightning conditions. It features 41,000 preloaded golf courses, and the same Virtual Caddie, taking the guesswork out of “which club do I choose?”
It also has the full spectrum of fitness apps that we’ve come to expect from smartwatches: a heart rate monitor, Pulse Ox sensor, and fitness tracking capabilities. With a battery life of up to 14 days in smartwatch mode and 20 hours in GPS mode, it can easily last through multiple rounds of golf.
When on blind shots, the PinPointer feature will tell you the direction of the pin so you can make the most of each swing, and coming from someone who often loses sight of the next hole, I really appreciate this feature. With a black silicon strap and black ceramic bezel, the Garmin Approach S62 is the perfect companion to golfing or grilling, and at $499.99, it’s hard to pass on this golf watch.
4. Bushnell iON Elite Golf GPS Watch
Now featuring a new color touchscreen, the Bushnell iON Elite is both reliable and easy to use; with dynamic green mapping, moveable pin placement, holeview and shot planning, and Bushnell’s patented slope technology, this golf watch packs all the features you could ever need!
There’s also a dedicated Bushnell mobile app, making connectivity, data analysis, and the user experience all the better. With 12 hours of battery life, the Bushnell iON Elite will last even the longest of golf days. The watch comes preloaded with over 38,000 golf courses and offers dynamic green mapping, which allows you to move the pin placement for more precise approach shots.
One of its best features is the auto-hole advance, which automatically switches to the next hole as you move through the course. And hey—golf is expensive. Between clubs, course fees, renting carts, and on and on, you shouldn’t have to break the bank to get a piece of wearable technology to keep you on top of your game.
And at $199.99, this is a very approachable golf watch for the discerning enthusiast.
5. SkyCaddie LX5 Golf GPS Smartwatch
The SkyCaddie LX5 is known for its incredibly detailed and up-to-date course maps. It features a large 1.39-inch full-color touchscreen with HD graphics, making it one of the most visually impressive golf watches on the market.
Preloaded with 35,000 courses, the SkyCaddie LX5 is loaded with must-have golf features: shot tracking, automatic hole advancement, digital scorekeeping, and a full range of fitness monitoring features. With an extended battery life good for 12 hours in GPS mode, the SkyCaddie LX5 will get you through even the longest day of golfing.
I have to admit, the first time I saw this golf watch in person, I was very impressed with the build and aesthetics. I really like the under-the-radar all-black design, along with a very comfortable perforated rubber strap.
Additionally, you can change the face of the watch, with classic wristwatch faces available, making this easily wearable as a daily companion. At $249.99, the SkyCaddie LX5 is a no-brainer for someone looking for both golf and smartwatch functionality at an affordable price.
6. Garmin Approach S12
If you are looking for a budget-friendly golf watch from the big “G,” the Garmin Approach S12 is the watch for you. With a sunlight-readable 1.3-inch screen and 42,000 preloaded golf courses, you’ll never feel outmatched on the links. It’s worth mentioning that navigation is done via tactile buttons along the sides of the case, but they do work really effectively.
The watch is loaded with necessary features and none of the extra stuff—that’s how they keep the price so approachable. Quickly reference the front, middle, and back of the green, so you have all the data you need for the perfect shot. The course maps give distances to hazards and doglegs so you know exactly where they’re hiding no matter where you stand on the course.
And Garmin didn’t slack on the battery in their entry-level offering: an unparalleled 30 hours in GPS mode, making it ideal for extended weekends of play. It is lightweight, stylish, and at $199.99, you simply can’t go wrong.
7. Voice Caddie T11 PRO Golf GPS Watch
Is your neck hurting you from constantly looking down at your wrist when you should be focusing on the green—on your swing? Voice Caddie has the solution for you: the T11 PRO Golf GPS Watch.
With voice-guided distance readings, the watch includes a beautiful Super OLED touch display, wind direction and speed confirmation, shot and putt tracking, undulation data, club recommendation, and so much more. The Voice Caddie T11 PRO is simply loaded with features, including a practice tempo feature where you can work on your game anywhere you can swing a club.
Also, why not integrate AI technology into a golf watch? Voice Caddie has you covered with a golf AI service that automatically provides essential information based on the player’s location and situation without any extra steps or maneuvers.
With 10 hours of battery life and a lightweight design, the T11 Pro is a great companion for someone looking for the latest and greatest technology, all at a very reasonable $349.99.
8. Shot Scope X5
The Shot Scope X5 is perfect for golfers who want detailed performance tracking. With automatic shot recording, providing over 100 statistics to analyze your game, the Shot Scope X5 really helps you work on the little things that add up to give you that extra edge!
It has a full-color touchscreen and over 36,000 preloaded course maps. It also has a really nice integrated and comfortable rubber strap and a really nice low-profile construction. With 10 hours of battery life, you’ll be able to get through a whole day of golfing without needing a charge.
Additionally, it has all the features you rely on to be at the top of your game: personalized full hole maps, dynamic F/M/B distances to the green, front and carry distances to hazards, green view and pin placement, layup points and dogleg distances, digital in-round scorecard, and so much more. It also tracks your steps outside of golfing so you can stay in tip-top shape! The Shot Scope X5 is currently on sale for $229.99. Grab yours before it’s too late!
9. Garmin MARQ Golfer (Gen 2)
If you are looking for something that is ultra-premium, exclusive, and built to last, the Garmin MARQ Golfer is an absolute game-changer. Available in two different case materials—fused carbon fiber or grade 5 titanium—the MARQ Golfer is as luxurious as a golf watch I’ve ever seen or heard of.
With a domed sapphire lens covering an AMOLED touchscreen, you have both durability and functionality. It also features every possible golf-related function, including a virtual caddie, wind speed/direction display, and hazard view. With 41,000 preloaded courses, it offers unparalleled course intelligence.
The watch also functions as a high-end fitness tracker with Pulse Ox, heart rate, and stress monitoring. Battery life extends up to 16 days in smartwatch mode and 28 hours in GPS mode, making it ideal for frequent golfers. The fused carbon fiber model has an MSRP of $3,100, while the grade 5 titanium model is $2,300.
10. Samsung Galaxy Watch5 Pro Golf Edition
Samsung Galaxy watches are renowned for their durability, features, and dedicated software. The Samsung Galaxy Watch5 Pro Golf Edition combines Samsung’s advanced smartwatch technology with the full range of golf-specific features.
It has a titanium construction which keeps the overall weight down, allowing you to swing your club without any hindrance. With 80 hours of battery life and 20 hours in GPS mode, this is a watch that barely needs to be charged. Simply place it on the dock at night and never worry about pesky battery life issues during the day.
This watch can be worn every day, with countless faces available and a full range of fitness and connectivity functions. At $399.99, the Samsung Galaxy Watch5 Pro Golf Edition is a great piece to consider and certainly worthy of this list.
Final Swing: it’s up to you!
Sometimes it feels like a chore to invest and choose the right equipment. But with so many good options available, you simply can’t go wrong with an established company. All of the watches, and companies, on this list are tried and true, and it really comes down to budget, preference, and comfort.
So definitely consider trying a few of these on the wrist—maybe even swinging a club with them on before choosing which one to purchase. I’ll see you guys on the links…don’t forget your golf watch!
Everyone loves a good “best” list, and I originally intended to include my top 10 watches here, but then after mulling it over in my head, I realized that 10 just didn’t cut it. In the dynamic age of social media and fashion forward trends, I think that offering a greater variety—from the perspective of price, style, and purpose—will best meet the demands of our esteemed readers. After all, there are so many good watches out there, so if we left one of your favorites off of this list, don’t take offense!
History of Men’s Watches
As many may know, the first watches were essentially miniature versions of clocks, so they were still too large to be worn on the wrist. In the 16th century, these “miniature clocks” were known as pocket watches, and while they were small enough to be carried, they were typically attached onto chains and worn in pockets (hence the name) or pinned onto clothing.
The prominence of wrist worn watches didn’t begin until the early 20th century. In 1904, Cartier designed a watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator with a “functional” need for accessible timekeeping while flying. And then the start of The Great War (World War I) required a more practical timekeeping solution for combat. Soldiers began strapping watches to their wrists, using makeshift leather straps or fabric brands to secure their pocket watches onto their wrists.
The rest is history—literally!
Top 15 Best Watches for Men
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (ref. M79030N-0001)
Ah–Tudor. The little sister of Rolex has sure as heck been making a lot of noise these days. Established in Geneva in 1926, Tudor has a rich history of watchmaking. But it wasn’t really until 2013 that Tudor started hitting its contemporary stride, triumphantly returning to the U.S. market with the Heritage Black Bay—a vintage inspired dive watch with an iconic burgundy bezel. The watch was well-received, but as smaller watches became trendy, some complained that the original Black Bay was a bit too large.
Tudor listened, releasing the Black Bay Fifty-Eight at Baselworld in 2018. With a screw-down crown, a rotatable bezel, and robust construction, this is a purpose-built dive watch. This timepiece offers a Goldilocks sizing of 39mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.8mm and a case thickness of 11.9mm. Juuuust Riiight. It also features an in-house caliber (MT5402) with COSC accuracy and 70 hours of power reserve. With an MSRP of $4,175, Tudor has set the bar high with the Black Bay 58.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)
Omega watches have adorned the wrists of astronauts, secret agents, celebrities, professional athletes, and even yours truly. They are one of the most globally recognizable brands, with a rich history of horological innovation and superb craftsmanship. When people think of Omega, they usually think of the Speedmaster Moonwatch.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph is the “souped-up” version of Omega’s legendary offering, featuring OMEGA’s extraordinary Co-Axial Calibre 3861, which has METAS certification and an exhibition caseback showing off pristine finishing. This version of the watch also has a domed sapphire crystal for extra durability. With a 42mm case diameter, this is a very wearable watch; moreover, with an MSRP of $8,000, I truly believe that you’d be hard pressed to find a better value in terms of history, craftsmanship, and brand recognition.
Rolex Submariner (ref. 124060)
You’ve seen it before: a green backdrop, the iconic crown, the gold embossed lettering. Rolex is arguably the most recognizable brand in the world. It’s certainly the most recognizable watch brand. Amongst its legendary offerings, one watch stands head and shoulders above the rest: the Submariner. First released in 1954, the watch has evolved through the decades, maintaining its vintage inspired design language while adopting new case and movement technologies.
The latest iteration, reference 124060, has a 41mm case diameter, a sapphire crystal, 300m of water resistance, and a Superlative Chronometer accurate movement with 70 hours of power reserve. It has all the trimmings expected of a modern luxury dive watch: a ceramic rotating bezel, long-lasting lume, and a robust bracelet with micro adjustment clasp for precise fitting. You could own the watch Sean Connery famously wore as Bond, all for a very reasonable $9,200.
Grand Seiko SLGA009
Grand Seiko, from a horological standpoint, is the pride of Japan. And yet, for decades, people have scrunched their nose at the prospect of spending “Swiss watch money” for a fancy Seiko. Fools—all of them. To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success.
Arguably, they have entered a new era with the release of their Evolution 9 styling, The bold hands and distinctive, grooved markers offer exceptional readability, while the case’s Zaratsu-polished mirror finish—free from distortion—and the subtle alternating hairline finish create a soft, harmonious radiance. With its wide lugs and low center of gravity, the case rests comfortably and securely on the wrist. The SLGA009, or “White Birch,” is my favorite offering in the Evolution 9 series.
The dial is absolutely gorgeous, with long vertical grooves that resemble the bark of a white birch tree. And yes—you are getting the 9RA2 Spring Drive Caliber with 5 days of power reserve and +/- 10 seconds per month of accuracy (yes, you read that correctly). With a 40mm diameter and a lug-to-lug of under 48mm, this watch fits all wrists and all occasions. At $9,300, this is quite a value proposition, too!
Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)
Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has established itself as a leader in high horology, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now widely adopted across the watch industry. Included in its numerous horological achievements are the creation of the first annual calendar watch and the introduction of wristwatches featuring perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. Patek Philippe enjoys popularity across its collections, but their Nautilus sports models are some of their most recognizable pieces.
The Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G) is my favorite Patek—let’s call it a grail of mine. It features a case and bracelet in white gold as well as a blue sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery. At 41mm, though with a lugless design, the watch wears more like a 38 or 39mm. At a mind-boggling 8.9mm thin, it will fit under any cuff. The party continues on the back, of course, with a movement worthy of a jeweler’s loupe. A date at 3 o’clock keeps the dial uncluttered. An MSRP of $72,230 is certainly a big ask, but this is no mere timepiece; it’s a Patek Phillippe.
Many believe that Rolex was the first commercial dive watch to market, but Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms a full year before the crown did. Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms in 1953, and it quickly became one of the first modern dive watches, setting the standard for timekeeping in underwater conditions. Its design, including a rotating bezel and high water resistance, made it a key tool for both military divers and professional explorers.
The 5010 12B30 B52B Fifty Fathoms features a 42mm titanium case and high quality canvas strap. There is a date complication at the 4:30 and a beautiful exhibition caseback, showcasing the self-winding Calibre 1315, known for its impressive 120-hour power reserve. If you are looking for a high-end dive watch that is lightweight and purpose-built, you simply can’t go wrong with the Fifty Fathoms. Its MSRP is $18,400.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.06)
Audemars Piguet has been crafting watches since 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Today, the company is headquartered in Le Brassus and remains one of the few watchmaking firms still privately owned, with the Audemars family at the helm. I have to admit, if I were to close my eyes and envision a luxury sports watch, it would be the Royal Oak every time.
Designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch. At 41mm, the stainless steel Royal Oak with blue dial is the pinnacle of stainless steel sports watches. The integrated bracelet has an almost ethereal quality to it, and color matching date wheel compliments the overall symmetry of the timepiece. With an MSRP of $24,900, the AP Royal Oak is a sound investment that can be enjoyed for centuries to come!
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Silver (ref. 1-90-02-42-32-64)
This legendary Maison’s name comes from a small town in Saxony called Glashütte, where German watchmaking was born hundreds of years ago. This town has a legacy of producing some of the finest timepieces in the world, each bearing the mark of German excellence and craftsmanship.
With a rich history spanning over a hundred years, Glashütte Original became part of Swatch Group—the world’s largest watch group—in 2000, affording the brand unprecedented global reach. With availability in over 40 countries, Glashütte Original is a true “in-house” watchmaker, creating nearly 100% of the components that go into their watches. The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Silver is a watch that screams Germany—in the best possible way! It has two subdials, one for the actual watch, and the other as a small seconds, overlapping each other.
It has a silver galvanized dial, which is so pretty to look at, a big date complication, and a gorgeous moonphase at 2 o’clock. The watch is just as nice to look at through the sapphire crystal caseback, showcasing a hand-finished movement with all the bells and whistles. At 40mm, this stainless steel watch can be dressed up or down. With an MSRP of $11,200, I don’t think you can find a timepiece that packs quite as much of a punch as the PanoMaticLunar Silver!
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold (ref. 642.OX.0180.RX)
The Hublot Big Bang collection is deeply rooted in the brand’s history. Drawing inspiration from the inaugural Hublot timepiece of 1980, it seamlessly incorporates iconic design elements such as the round bezel reminiscent of a porthole, visible screws, and integrated straps. Officially unveiled at Basel in 2005, Hublot’s Big Bang watches have become a mainstay within the luxury watch industry.
The Spirit of Big Bang King Gold is the perfect fusion between tradition and innovation—in an entirely skeletonized design. The 42mm watch is constructed from 18K “King” gold, featuring 100m of water resistance, 50 hours of power reserve, and a super comfortable rubber strap. This timepiece offers chronograph functionality and eye-catching looks. If you want something that is both loud and elegant at the same time, the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold can be yours for $44,900.
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green
I have always loved the idea of stainless steel sports watches, made famous by Gerald Genta. My favorite color is green, so I guess having the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green on this list was a no brainer. Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, the company was relaunched in 2005 to great critical acclaim.
When I first laid eyes on this watch, I realized that this was not just a homage. This was something entirely new. It looked almost “alien-like” in person—as if some advanced civilization had crafted it with laser beams. The bracelet articulates wonderfully. You catch your breath when looking at the sunburst green dial.
At 40mm in diameter, this watch is as wearable as it gets, especially when considering it has an integrated bracelet. The in-house movement is finished to the highest of standards, offering superb accuracy and 72 hours of power reserve. With an MSRP of $24,000, this is one of the best value propositions in all of high-horology.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Steel (ref. PFC931-1020001-400182)
Parmigiani Fleurier is a Swiss watchmaking brand that was founded in 1996 by master watchmaker Michel Parmigiani. Known for its dedication to craftsmanship and understated luxury, the brand combines traditional horological artistry with modern innovation. The first time I held a Parmigiani Tonda in my hand, I was blown away by the finishing and quality.
Pictures truly don’t do these watches justice. Powered by Calibre PF070, a COSC-certified chronograph movement with a 65-hour power reserve, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Steel is a true work or artistry, with a hand-guilloché dial with a Clou Triangulaire pattern, a coin-edged bezel, and a movement showcasing anglage and hand beveled bridges, showcasing true horology.
An integrated bracelet design makes the 42mm stainless steel case very comfortable on the wrist. Beyond chronograph functionality, the watch also has a date at the 4:30 and 100m of water resistance. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Steel has an MSRP of $30,000.
Breguet Marine Tourbillon (ref. 5577PT/Y2/9WV)
As one of the oldest surviving watchmakers, founded in 1775, Breguet’s popularity can be attributed to heritage, quality, and brand resources. Having been acquired by Swatch Group in 1999, Breguet’s position as the flagship brand within the Swatch Group affords the brand the financial resources and creative freedom to continue to innovate. Imagine a watch that blends so many distinct styles and horological innovation into one sleek package?
Imagine the Breguet Marine Tourbillon. Integrated sports watch—check. Purpose-built marine watch with 100m of water resistance—check. Roman numeral indices for a dressier appearance—check. Tourbillon, an ode to Abraham-Louis Breguet along with “Breguet” style hands—check. At 42.5mm, with only 9.5mm of thickness—yes, you read that correctly—this is a very approachable timepiece, regardless of your wrist size. With an MSRP of $185,800, the Breguet Marine Tourbillon isn’t just a watch, it’s an heirloom artifact that can be handed down for generations to come.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Founded in 1904, the nascency of Oris parallels the fledgling aviation industry of the time period. By 1911, Oris developed their first pocket watch for pilots, and by 1917 they developed their first wrist-worn pilot’s watch. Their Big Crown watches—so that the watch could be wound with gloves that pilots wore—often had pointer dates, and are still offered today, with vintage styling for the contemporary consumer. It wasn’t until 2014, however, that Oris decided to create an amalgamation of vintage and modern, which ultimately gave birth to the Oris Big Crown ProPilot line of watches.
Being well received, Oris continued to innovate and invest in its own identity with the release of the Big Crown ProPilot X, which first debuted in 2019. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition was first released in 2021. It has a “lime” green dial with Kermit the Frog appearing on the first day of every month. While it might be loud for some collectors, the Oris Pro Pilot X Kermit Edition is actually a watch with a splash of color that can be worn with casual or formal attire.
The watch is constructed in lightweight and durable titanium, and has a very wearable 39mm size. The in-house caliber Oris 400 is also featured through the exhibition caseback, and offers a 5-day power reserve and an unheard of 10 year warranty! All of this is available for $4,900.
Longines L3.802.1.53.6 Spirit Zulu Time Anthracite Dial on Bracelet (ref. L3.802.1.53.6)
The Spirit Zulu Time 39mm, from Longines, is the impetus for Longines’ resurgence within the watch community. Not only is this watch absolutely gorgeous—I dream about the green bezel version—but it is also built to a high standard of finishing. Offered in a variety of materials and sizes, the L3.802.1.53.6 Spirit Zulu Time is made from titanium and is 13.5mm thick, with a 46.8mm lug-to-lug. This is as wearable as a watch can be, folks, offering superb legibility and the ability to easily slip under a cuff.
What’s more, unlike most of its competition, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is a true GMT, allowing the hour hand to be independently adjusted. The movement within also parallels the excellence of the case. It offers a COSC certified ETA movement, exclusive to the brand, with 72 hours of power reserve. If you are looking for one of the best bargains in the industry, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm retails at $4,275. I love this watch so much that I just couldn’t keep it off this list!
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121
Some watches are so iconic that you can close your eyes and picture them vividly in your head. I feel this way about the Seiko Prospex Alpinist. The Seiko Alpinist story dates back to the 1960s, when Seiko released a rugged watch for Japanese mountaineers. The 2006 version was more closely related to the SPB121, with the iconic green dial and rotating inner compass. And Seiko’s latest iteration, the SPB121 is the perfect amalgamation of form and function.
This is a unique and timeless watch, and I’ve always felt that it has the ability to be worn for outdoor activities as well as dressed up for formal wear. A 39.5mm case with a 46mm lug to lug makes for a very wearable watch, and the heart of the watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R35, good for 70 hours of power reserve. Did I mention that it has a sapphire crystal, screw down crown, and 200m of water resistance?
Okay—I know what you are thinking. So how much for all of this? With an MSRP of $725, the SRB121 is a testament that you can still buy a quality timepiece for under $1000.
Conclusion
And just like that, you have 15 of the best watches for men, curated by Exquisite Timepieces for your enjoyment. At the end of the day, the best watch is the one that scratches your horological itch, and from a price point that makes sense for you.
Here at Exquisite Timepieces, you can feel free to contact us to help you find your next timepiece. Or feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida.
I remember the first time I realized just how important watch accuracy was. I was just starting out on my watch journey, still exploring the world of cheaper homage watches with low-end Chinese movements. As far as I was concerned, if it slightly resembled an Omega Seamaster and ticked, it probably was good enough to reliably depend on. Little did I know.
I remember wearing the watch for a few days—not really thinking about checking the accuracy of its timekeeping. It was ticking, after all, so that meant it was working. A week later, I was ten minutes late for a college course I was teaching. Ten minutes late? How the heck did that happen?
Well, it turns out the watch was losing about a minute and a half per day. A quick trip to my jeweler, and he adjusted the watch so that it wasn’t so inaccurate. I learned my lesson: Buy once, cry once. Chinese “off-brands” are able to sell watches so cheaply because the quality control and fine adjustment aren’t quite there—if present at all!
The lesson here is that accuracy matters. Never forget!
The COSC Chronometer Certification
In the mid-20th century, as the demand for accurate timepieces grew across the globe, the Swiss sought to create an independent timekeeping standard that only the best quality movements could achieve.
We call these watches COSC-certified or chronometers. COSC, as is defined by the watch industry today, is the rigorous timekeeping standard created by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute—for you language aficionados, also known as Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres—in 1973.
This “ISO 3159” standard subjects mechanical movements (both automatic and manual winding) to a 15-day testing process, which measures accuracy across five positions and three temperatures. If the watch maintains a daily timekeeping rate of at least -4/+6 seconds per day, then it receives the badge of honor: COSC certified.
Other Chronometer Certifications
While “COSC” is the standard by which all others are measured today, it actually wasn’t the first “chronometer” certified movement, nor was it the last! The following is a list of timekeeping standards used both within and without Switzerland, with the majority still in use as of my writing this article!
Superlative Chronometer
The King wears the crown, after all. That’s right, folks, Rolex is the earliest on this list to offer a Chronometer standard better than the COSC Chronometer certification. In the 1950s, Rolex began offering Superlative Chronometer watches to differentiate themselves from other Swiss competitors and establish themselves as a leader in precision and reliability.
And although Rolex had been releasing COSC-level watches for decades prior, this was done through various independent observatories, not by the aforementioned body, which became the central authority, standardizing it under one unified body in 1973.
It’s worth noting that Rolex didn’t only offer “better” than Chronometer timekeeping—the brand absolutely crushed the standard, with their Superlative Chronometer watches all maintaining accuracy of at least +/- 2 seconds per day. Today, the entire Rolex catalog of watches comes standard with Superlative Chronometer accuracy.
Like I said—they wear the crown for a reason!
METAS Chronometer
As I’m typing this, I am staring at my Omega Railmaster—at the small white lettering that reads, “Master Chronometer.” Never to be outdone by Rolex, in 2015, Omega set an even more rigorous standard, claiming, “To own a MASTER CHRONOMETER is to be confident that your watch has been certified not once – but twice!”
Indeed, Omega does certify their METAS watches twice: once with Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, ensuring it meets standard COSC parameters and is accurate to -4/+6 seconds per day, and a second time by METAS (Swiss Federal Industry of Metrology), where it undergoes an additional and more rigorous 10 days of testing to ensure the watch can withstand magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, maintain an accuracy of 0/+5 seconds per day after casing, be tested for water resistance to its specified depth, and have its power reserve verified to match the advertised duration.
What’s more interesting—and unlike standard COSC watches and even Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer watches—is the fact that Omega offers full transparency, available online, for the results of each and every METAS-certified watch they sell. It’s pretty cool to be able to log onto the site and see your individual watch’s results, I have to admit.
German Chronometer Standard
Enter the Germans. No really—whenever great horological houses are discussed, it’s always the big three that are mentioned: Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. Of course, great watches, both entry-level and luxury, come from a great host of nations, like anything else. But Germany, especially the city of Glashütte, has been producing highly accurate timepieces for hundreds of years.
The German Chronometer Standard was first introduced in the 20th century under the “DIN 8319” standard, which in actuality closely mirrored COSC’s ISO 3159 standards. The difference is that DIN 8319 only tests fully cased watches, whereas ISO 3159 tests movements alone.
For me, it always felt a bit like, “Hey. We can do this too. Our standards are at least equal to, if not better than the Swiss!” Either way, you can have peace of mind knowing that if you have a German Chronometer Standard watch, you will have superb accuracy, durability, and craftsmanship present.
Grand Seiko Special Standard
If you’ve heard of Grand Seiko—and if you haven’t, have you been living under a damn Rock?—you know that they are renowned for their dials, meticulous craftsmanship, and their Spring Drive movements.
These hybrid quartz-mechanical movements are accurate to +/-15 seconds per month, but they do use quartz oscillators and, therefore, do not fall under the purview of COSC or any mechanical movement standard. You might be asking yourself, then, what in the world is “Grand Seiko Special Standard?”
Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we aren’t only in the business of selling watches but also informing our audience about horological history and innovation! In 1960, the first Grand Seiko had “Chronometer” on the dial as an indication of its superior accuracy, rivaling the standard set by the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres of the time.
This only lasted for 6 years, however, and in 1966, Grand Seiko introduced its own standard: Grand Seiko Special Standard. These mechanical movements would undergo a 17-day vigorous testing period, in which the movements would be subjugated to temperature and position variation. Watches would only pass and be designated with Grand Seiko’s Special Standard if they had precision rates of at least +4/-2 seconds per day!
Qualité Fleurier Standard
In the world of Haute horology, or high horology, the Qualité Fleurier Standard is the absolute gold standard. Established in 2001 in Fleurier, Switzerland, it is considered to be one of the most prestigious and demanding certifications in the industry.
Not only does it measure the accuracy of a timepiece, but also the reliability, durability, and finishing of both the movement and the timepiece.
The Qualité Fleurier Standard also requires that all components of the timepiece, from the dial to the case, hands, and indices, be manufactured and assembled in Switzerland. It is worth noting that the movement accuracy must meet ISO 3159 (COSC) standards.
Because of these stringent requirements, only a handful of high-end Maisons qualify for the Qualité Fleurier Standard—watches like Parmigiani Fleurier, Chopard, and Bovet.
Patek Philippe Seal
Arguably the centerpiece of “The Holy Trinity” of watchmaking, Patek Philippe holds a venerable “grail” status amongst most enthusiasts. I recently had the opportunity to try a platinum World Time on the wrist.
It was my first hands-on Patek Philippe experience, and the whole thing lasted about 20 seconds but left me thinking about that watch in the days, weeks, and months to come. It was beautiful.
In 2009, Patek Philippe introduced their own in-house certification, replacing the Geneva Seal—a historic sign of Swiss watchmaking excellence. Going beyond the stringent requirements of the Geneva Seal, the Patek Philippe Seal covers the entire watch: case, dial, hands, bracelet, movement finishing, and performance.
We already know how “perfect” Patek Philippe’s are in terms of finishing, but the Patek Philippe Seal also calls for a greater than COSC accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day. Make no mistake, folks—this is Patek proclaiming loud and clear for all those to hear, “We set our own standards of excellence.”
Why is Chronometer Certification Important?
If you consider some of the tragic accidents that happened in the locomotive world, leading to better accuracy in American horology, and the needs for soldiers in battle to have accurate time telling, and for pilots to measure fuel consumption and flight times, and for racecar drivers to accurately time lap times to measure performance, and—I’m guessing you are starting to get the point here.
Yes, having accurate timekeeping capabilities is a tenet of contemporary societal needs. And in the age of digital watches, smartwatches, and cellphones, the onus is on the titans of the horological industry to offer as accurate a mechanical watch as possible!
After all, you can’t expect people to spend boatloads of cash for a watch that isn’t reliable. The Chronometer certification—in whatever aforementioned guise it is offered in—is a worry-free guarantee to the customer: you won’t be late. We have your back.
Conclusion
While having superbly accurate timepieces is important, it’s equally important to discuss some of the costs associated with more stringent accuracy. Timepieces with COSC certifications are usually more expensive than their counterparts without.
Nevertheless, I have some non-COSC certified timepieces that are just as accurate, or even more accurate than the chronometers in my staple. It’s also worth noting that if you rotate your watches daily, or even weekly, COSC becomes less important, as you are constantly switching out watches and resetting the times.
In the end, what matters most is that a timepiece aligns with your needs and passions as a collector. After all, a watch isn’t just about telling time—it’s about telling your story.
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