Author: Charlotte H

Most watch collectors, myself included, own a dive watch but have never actually dived with it. It’s more of a style statement than a piece of actual dive gear, and there’s something reassuring knowing your timepiece can withstand high pressures of water – just in case you spontaneously decide to dive headfirst into a pool. 

Alternatively, you might actually be one of those rare collectors who does dive, or maybe you’re not even a collector at all—just a real, seasoned diver looking for something reliable. If so, then the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week might just be the perfect watch for you. It’s not just about looking good (although if you’re like me and you do just enjoy a timeless dive watch aesthetic, it nails that, too), but this has a list of specs that promises a watch that performs.

Grand Seiko’s Background in Dive Watches

Grand Seiko has been around for over half a century, founded in 1960, and yet it wasn’t until 2008 that the Japanese watchmaker debuted their first dive watch. It included reference SBGA029, a stainless steel model, and reference SBGA031, done in titanium. 

Both were powered by the company’s legendary 9R65 Spring Drive movement, perfectly combining the ruggedness of a serious dive watch with the unprecedented precision of their Spring Drive technology. This unique movement, combining mechanical precision with quartz accuracy, gave their dive watches an edge in both reliability and performance, letting them contend in a saturated and highly competitive market.

In more recent years, Grand Seiko has also impressed with its Hi-Beat Diver models, which specifically target wearers who appreciate a higher frequency mechanical movement, offering greater accuracy and a more responsive feel. The brand has long been a strong contender in the sports watch market, so it’s no surprise that their dive watch collection is packed with high-performing, top-tier models.

One of their standout recent releases of recent years is the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 200m Diver SBGH289, launched in 2021 alongside its black-dialed counterpart, the SBGH291. These models lean more toward recreational diving, offering a slightly less rugged and oversized design, perfect for both underwater performance and casual weekend wear. 

They’re versatile and stylish, and still maintain the Grand Seiko reputation for excellence in craftsmanship and functionality. After wearing the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 for the past week, here are my thoughts…

A Solid, Water Resistant Case

No matter how hard I try, I can’t help but have preconceptions about a watch before it even lands on my desk for review. With the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289, despite the relatively compact dimensions listed on the GS website (at least, for a dive watch), I was convinced it was going to feel big—maybe even too big for my wrist. But, as usual, my assumptions were quickly proven wrong. 

Once I had it on, the watch felt perfectly balanced, with the sleek case design and smart proportions making it surprisingly comfortable. It manages to strike that rare balance between being substantial enough to feel like a true dive watch without overwhelming the wrist. It’s a perfect reminder that you can’t always judge a watch by its specs alone. 

Dimensions are made up of a 43.8mm width and a lug-to-lug of 51mm. It also has a thickness of 14.7mm which again feels much lower on the wrist than the numbers suggest. It should, as long as your shirt cuff isn’t too tight, slip easily under most dress shirts. The short but broad lugs that sloped downwards help to keep the case compact on the wrist while the bezel and sapphire crystal glass add to its height. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is engineered from stainless steel and, in typical Grand Seiko style, features a nice combination of finishes. The case sides feature a black polish, also known as Zaratsu polishing in GS’s dictionary. 

It’s a process that is done completely by hand and requires several years of training to master. The metal is held against a spinning tinplate to create a breathtaking mirror polish. It looks incredibly good on a dress watch, and in this case, a sports watch.  There’s also a small bit of bevelling along the side of the case, adding to its sleek architecture and satin-brushed finishing applied on the lug hoods. 

Up top, the bezel has its own stainless steel ring with knurled detailing for easy grip, even with wet hands or while wearing thick diving gloves. Sadly, the bezel is not ceramic, which is something you’d expect at this price point. In fact, Grand Seiko doesn’t specify exactly what the material is, but to me, it appears to be ADLC, aka Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon. 

It’s still a super scratch-resistant and glossy material that won’t shatter like a ceramic will. Grand Seiko has also suggested it’s been treated with a special hard coating so that durability is increased further. What I really love about the bezel is how silky and smooth it feels to turn. It’s a pleasure to set with an accurate 120-click action. The insert is a glossy black and has a 60-minute diver’s scale engraved in white around the circumference. A luminous pip is also added at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock, there’s a screw down crown nicely recessed into the case and protected by prominent crown guards. The case back is also screwed down, allowing for a healthy water-resistant rating of 200 meters. It’s the perfect level of water pressure protection for most recreational diving, whether you’re snorkeling, swimming, or going for a shallow dive. 

Even if you’re not planning on deep-sea adventures, 200 meters of water resistance means you never have to worry about everyday splashes, rain, or even taking it in the shower. It’s more than enough for casual divers or anyone who simply enjoys the peace of mind that comes with a robust, well-engineered dive watch. 

A Deep Navy Dial 

Like the pip on the bezel at 12 o’clock, much of the hardware on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch glows bright green in the dark. I’ve always loved the unusual combination of hands-on Grand Seiko’s dive watches, and the unique setup is made all the more obvious when the hands glow brilliantly at night. 

There’s a modern and broad arrow-tipped minute hand, a lollipop seconds hand, and a vintage-inspired cathedral hour hand. It might not be a combination of hardware suited to every taste, but I love it, and it really highlights Grand Seiko’s proficiency in bringing together traditional watchmaking techniques with modern ones. 

The dial has a gorgeous glossy blue finish that appears a deep royal blue in some lights and almost black in others. The rounded and baton-shaped hour markers are also generously decorated in Lumibrite for glow-in-the-dark capability and are hand-finished and brightly polished for an upscale look. 

It’s a relatively simple and standard dial layout, but the finishing of the hardware makes the dial look and feel more luxurious than any other standard dive watch. The date window at 3 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker here, also has its own polished border and a black-on-white date disc.

The only other notes of reference on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch’s dial are the sloped navy seconds scale around the furthest edge and the applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. 

There’s also some lettering printed for Grand Seiko below the applied logo and several lines of text to denote the watch’s water resistance and movement at 6 o’clock. You could argue the text here could be reduced by a line or two to make the dial feel less cluttered, but since this is a time-and-date watch, after all, it doesn’t feel excessive.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is the Caliber 9S86 Hi-Beat movement. It’s automatic winding with manual winding capacity and is best characterized – and named after – by its high frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour. It also has a 55-hour power reserve, a quick set date, and hacking seconds. It’s also one of Grand Seiko’s most finely regulated movements, claiming an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds a day. That’s an accuracy well within chronometer standards (-4 to +6 seconds a day).

Thanks to its higher frequency, the seconds hand glides with a noticeably smoother sweep compared to standard mechanical watches running at 28,800 vph. While it may not achieve the ultra-smooth flow of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements, it still offers a wonderfully fluid motion and a subtle, satisfying tick that’s a pleasure to see and hear.

A Solid Metal Bracelet

The bracelet of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is really nice and has a lot going for it. It has a lovely conforming end link which sits flush to the bracelet. There’s nothing worse than a metal bracelet that leaves a gap, even one small, between the bracelet and the case. 

That’s not a problem here, though. It has a modern look with a three-link architecture and wide spacing between the lugs. The bracelet does have a slight taper, decreasing ever so slightly the closer it gets to the folding buckle.

Like the case, the bracelet’s stainless steel surface has a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishing. The edges of the links have beautiful, rolled bevels with polishing, while the central links are tipped by edges that are also polished.

Annoyingly, the links are fixed with pins instead of screws, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko’s stainless steel model – we’ve seen this with some of their titanium models, but rarely those made from classic steel. It would have been better to have seen screws here, but changing out links is still easy and requires few tools.

That said, there likely won’t be many links to remove since there are plenty of micro-adjustment options on the buckle. There are four micro-adjust holes equipped on the buckle and a diver’s extension, so you can make super accurate amendments. 

The dive extension is particularly useful, as it can be done on the go while the watch is on the wrist. You just lift the two tabs on the buckle to adjust the sizing. It means you can adjust the length even while around marine environments without the worry you’ll drop it in the water! 

The buckle itself has a twin trigger release for added security and is nicely embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. If you’d rather wear – or dive – in a water-resistant strap like a rubber watch band, then the 22mm lug width and drilled lugs make shopping and changing out the strap a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

Despite its seemingly large dimensions, I’m thoroughly impressed with how the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 wears. The short, angled lugs are thoughtfully designed to hug the wrist, giving it a surprisingly comfortable fit. In fact, I think it could work on wrists as small as six inches, as long as you don’t mind the oversized look. 

That said, I’d recommend it for wrists between six-and-a-half and eight inches for the best balance of size and proportion. The only drawback is the use of stainless steel, which adds a bit of heft and makes it feel slightly heavier than you might expect. However, the extra weight doesn’t make it too cumbersome; it still wears well and feels solid without being overbearing, making it a good choice for those who appreciate a more substantial dive watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is a permanent addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio, meaning that it’s a non-limited edition and doesn’t appear to be leaving the collection anytime soon. It retails for $7,300 brand new when ordered from authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. 

It’s always worth purchasing your watches through authorized retailers like this, as you’ll have the reassurance that you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 on the second-hand market, averaging between $4,000 and $5,000.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 is a fantastic dive watch that feels robust, reliable, and built to last. The case is surprisingly compact despite its listed dimensions, and it’s impressive how well Grand Seiko has managed to pull off a watch that’s both functional and attractive – especially at this price. The bezel and deep blue dial are also well executed and feel right at home alongside much more expensive dive watches. I will always love the unique combination of hand styles, too. In my opinion, you’ll not find a comparable Swiss-made dive watch with this level of hand-finishing and technology. I’m happy to recommend it to anyone who loves the look of a dive watch or genuinely wants something robust and reliable that can join you under the waves.

Many watch collectors, myself included, have a bucket list of holy grail watches we hope to own one day. For some, it’s popular designs like the Rolex Submariner or the Omega Speedmaster. For me, though, it’s the Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Why? Because this is one of those pieces of technology that is impossible to replicate. 

No other watch brand has designed a movement quite like this one – a movement that not just tells the time but tells it almost perfectly, and two – a movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

But of course, with incredible technology often comes high price tags, and even though, when put into perspective, much of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive collection is very reasonably priced, it’s still out of reach for some. 

That said, there are a few designs in the collection that are the perfect entry-level pieces for those wanting to own a Spring Drive watch. One such model is the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439. It’s a watch that lacks very little in terms of design and technology and yet retails for less than $5,000. Shall we take a closer look? 

What is a Spring Drive Movement? 

Grand Seiko ultimately has three movement pillars to distinguish their watches. There are their 9F quartz models (some of the most accurate quartz watches in the world, I should add), their Hi-Beat models, and, of course, their Spring Drive watches. The latter is undoubtedly their best-known, for good reason. 

These are revolutionary watches that, in essence, use mechanical power as a reserve of energy with the help of a mainspring (a component used in all mechanical watches). The rotating wheel at the end of the gear train creates a small electrical charge that sends a signal to an integrated and quartz oscillator (the same used in quartz watches). 

It sounds complicated because it is. It’s a piece of proprietary technology Grand Seiko developed for several decades, first being initiated during the 1970s and later being launched in 1999, debuting at Baselworld that same year. 

The movement’s brilliance lies in a number of things, including its seconds hand, which is insanely smooth with a continuous motion – there’s none of that erratic ticking like a regular watch.

Spring Drive movements are also insanely accurate. To put it into perspective, even some of the most accurate mechanical watches on the market are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive, on the other hand, has an impressive tolerance of just +/- 1 second per day. 

Basically, you’re getting the accuracy of a quartz watch but with the artistry of mechanical watchmaking. It’s the best of both worlds in my opinion, and it’s for this reason so many watch collectors consider the Grand Seiko Spring Drive a prerequisite of a true luxury watch collection. 

OK, so back to the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch. This model was first released in 2021 alongside four other entry-level Spring Drive watches with silver, white, or champagne-colored dials. 

As mentioned in the introduction, trailblazing technology often comes with a price tag to warrant it. Typically, Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches retail from between $6,000 and $7,000, so to find one within the $4,000 bracket has become a huge win for those of us working with a smaller budget.

A Refined Steel Case

You might think that since the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive models in their portfolio, it will lack some of the luster and elegance of other designs in the collection. 

I thought that, too, honestly, but I was wrong. In fact, the SBGA439 wears just as beautifully as any other Spring Drive I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. It has a beautiful classic shape and wonderful dimensions that are going to suit pretty much any wrist size. 

It measures just 40mm wide, 12.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug width of 46.6mm. As someone with a five-and-a-half inch wrist, I typically max out watches at 40mm, but I have to admit, this model wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. And that’s not a bad thing. 

In fact, it’s incredibly compact, and I think that’s really down to the length of the case. It sits beautifully on my wrist, and yet I can just as easily imagine it on someone with a frame larger than myself. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 presents all the high levels of finishing we’ve come to expect from the Japanese watchmaker. The interior plains of the lugs and bracelet links are brushed, while the rest of the design, including the case sides, bezel, and aggressive line facets running down the case length, are brightly polished. 

These are created using the company’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a process done completely by hand, requiring several years of training and insane levels of attention to detail. The mirror finish is certainly worth the effort. 

For a nice touch of vintage appeal, the watch is topped by double-domed sapphire crystal glass with an anti-reflective coating for excellent visibility. There’s also a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, with slight knurled detailing, and the GS logo placed at the center in relief. The crown is ever so slightly recessed into the case for added protection without the need to add any bulky crown guards. 

Similarly, the case back is solid and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo and their legendary lion emblem. Both the case back and crown ensure a water resistance of 100 meters. The closed case back might be a letdown for some because it’s always nice to see the technology of the Spring Drive movement through a glass back, but minor sacrifices like this help keep the cost down. 

A Midnight Blue Dial 

If you’re even remotely familiar with Grand Seiko, then it’s very likely you’re aware that many of their dials are often patterned or intricately engraved. That’s not the case with the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch, however. Instead, the dial is kept simple and classic, yet somehow, it is still no less beautiful. 

It features this rich deep blue dial Grand Seiko called “Midnight Blue”. It has a subtle sunburst effect that radiates from the center of the display and creates this cool color-changing feature depending on the lighting conditions.

The dial appears royal blue in the bright light, and then, in darker areas, it seems almost pitch black. It’s a beautiful effect despite there being no obvious visual complexity. 

Of course, with this being a Grand Seiko dial, after all, the hardware placed at the center is not neglected by the brand’s hand-made craftsmanship. Every single hand and marker has been hand-finished by trained artisans to contribute their own element of light play.

Resting between the lined minute track in white, the large, hand-applied, and hand-polished hour markers glisten with every movement of the wrist. In a similar fashion, the hands are faceted and sharply finished, with the seconds hand freely rotating with not a single jump or splutter in sight – all thanks to the Spring Drive movement. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch does offer two complications. The first is the box-shaped date window at 3 o’clock, replacing its respective hour marker with a polished silver border and a nice color-matching date wheel. 

The other is the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, printed in white with its own silver hand to showcase its remaining power. From there, the only other dial details are the Grand Seiko logos beneath the double 12 o’clock index and white ink lettering at 6 o’clock to denote the movement inside.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA43 watch is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. This is easily one of the better-known and most popular Spring Drive movements on the market, as it keeps things “simple” with just time, date, and power reserve. It’s still a world-class movement, and this is one of the reasons why this model is such a compelling point of value in the broader Grand Seiko lineup.

It delivers that silently and unbelievably smooth gliding seconds hand at the center and an accuracy of one second per day, or 15 seconds per month. It also boasts a weekend-proof 72-hour power reserve, so you can confidently take the watch off on a Friday and return it to your wrist on Monday, knowing it’ll still be keeping perfect time. Plus, the power reserve is on show on the dial, so it’s easy to keep track of when the watch might need a few hours of wear.

A Simple Steel Strap

Securing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch to the wrist is a bracelet we don’t often see from the Japanese watchmaker. It’s a standard, simply executed oyster-style bracelet with three links and a 20mm lug width. 

It has the same combination of brushed and polished surfaces as many of GS’s bracelets, but it doesn’t have the signature polished middle links. It’s still a beautiful, solid-looking, and feeling bracelet but does have a little less pizzazz than those with the added polishing. 

The bracelet tapers down to a push-button folding clasp decorated with the GS logo in relief. The lugs are drilled, so strap changes are easy, and with its 20mm lug width, you’ll have no trouble finding replacement straps elsewhere. 

Since it’s a standard Grand Seiko clasp, don’t expect to find any micro adjustment here. It does arrive with screws and half links, though, so a good level of close adjustment is still possible.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I’d recommend to almost anybody. The Spring Drive technology inside speaks for itself, and its combination of finishing, dial color, and dimensions make it one of the most versatile daily beaters from Grand Seiko. 

It has excellent wearability thanks to its 40mm width and relatively thin 12.3mm height. It sits even smaller than its width suggests, too, keeping comfy and compact thanks to the 46.6mm lug to lug. 

I’d confidently say that anyone with wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches can effortlessly pull off this watch, and it looks just as fantastic on wrists up to eight inches. Even if you have a larger frame but love the elegance of a smaller watch, this piece can still shine. Its slender profile makes it ideal for formal occasions, easily slipping under shirt cuffs. 

The rich blue dial color is also perfect for these occasions, adding a touch of sophistication and depth that enhances its overall elegance. It’s one of those watches that transitions between an everyday timepiece and a dress watch, perfect for those who want to invest in a good quality all-rounder. 

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive offerings from the Japanese luxury watch brand, retailing for just $4,800. 

This will never not be an impressive price, especially when you take into account the high levels of detail, the hand-finishing, and, of course, the groundbreaking Spring Drive movement. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. 

The model can also be found on the second hand market for around $3,500 and $4,000 if you’re interested. It’s a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Heritage Spring Drive collection, so we don’t expect it to be disappearing anytime soon.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I truly believe not enough people know about. When you type Spring Drive into a search engine, you’ll instantly become inundated with examples of some of the Japanese brand’s more expensive models and conclude that these are watches you can’t afford. But that’s just not the case. 

Grand Seiko does boast an impressive line-up of entry-level Spring Drive models and the SBGA439 is one of the best. If you want a highly accurate timepiece with a flawless sweeping seconds hand, hand-finishing detailing, compact dimensions and a mesmerizing deep blue dial, you’ll struggle to find anything better than the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439.

I don’t know about you, but I have a few prerequisites for a good GMT watch. At the end of the day, this is a timepiece I’m likely going to take traveling abroad or across the country, so it needs to be able to withstand the many different types of adventures I get up to during that time. I’m more of a sightseer than a beachbody, so I want something durable and robust that can withstand the hikes, city tours, and anything else I might get up to while traveling.

But for those days when I do want to chill by the pool or at the beach, it needs to be waterproof enough to resist those dips in the water. And finally, whether it’s for when I’m traveling for work or going out for a nice dinner at dusk, I want something that looks good. Not necessarily something overly dressy, but just something that looks the part, something that demands a little bit of attention without feeling overly heavy or over-the-top on my wrist. 

If I had the choice, it would be a watch like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253. Or at least that’s my opinion after wearing it this past week…

One of Three

Making its debut in 2020, you’re probably wondering why it’s taken me this long to test out the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 properly. Truth be told, I’ve technically test-driven this watch before, but it was a slightly different reference in the same collection – just with a different dial and bezel combo. And although I loved it, I wasn’t in a rush to try on any of the other models in the line-up.

But a lot has changed in the last four years. Not only have I gained a little more financial freedom to enjoy brands like Grand Seiko, but my desire for a GMT watch has also grown. And with so many GMT models out there, it can feel a little daunting to know where to start. 

So, I decided to give the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 a shot. As mentioned, it was released in 2020 as part of the Japanese watchmaker’s Sport Collection. It joined two other references, including a green SBGE257 model and a contrasting blue SBGE255 model (the latter being the reference I tested originally).

At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking these watches didn’t offer anything overly new for the brand. At this point in time, Grand Seiko already had several Sports GMT models in their collection, some with Spring Drive movements and others with their famous Hi-Beat caliber. 

But what these new models did do, rather subtly I should add, is apply a more scaled-down design. I’m talking about more compact cases, a new ceramic bezel, and more refined dial layouts. And ever since, they have basically become one of Japan’s most popular GMT watches with a design to rival those like the Rolex GMT-Master and the Tudor GMT.

A Compact, Sporty Case

Those of us with smaller than average wrists and a love of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology are often faced with a problem involving case sizes. More accurately, their cases are too big. However, with the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch, we are treated to one of the brand’s most compact sports GMT watches. 

Now if you have a wrist size of five inches, don’t get too excited. This is still a well-sized watch – it’s a GMT Spring Drive, after all – but it has a new set of dimensions that make it a whole lot more wearable compared to previous references in the same collection.

To put it into perspective, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT models with Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements on offer before the SBGE253 was released were only available with hefty 44mm wide cases. That’s a big ol’ chunk of wrist real estate taken up, especially if you’re like me and you don’t have that much to begin with. 

So, with the release of watches like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253, lovers of more compact-sized cases are getting to enjoy GS’s aggressive Sport Collection aesthetics with Spring Drive technology – finally!

As for exact dimensions, the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 measures just 40.5mm wide and with a 48.7mm lug to lug. If you count the end links of the bracelet – which annoyingly don’t articulate (but more on that later), the lug to lug is closer to 50mm. 

It’s still a relatively large watch if you have a small wrist, but it’s 40.5mm diameter makes it a whole lot more wearable than before. The beautiful curvature of the case and downward nature of the lugs help with this too.

The thickness of the watch is relatively high at 14.7mm but that’s kind of expected for a Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT. The technology going on inside here, which I’ll go into more detail about shortly, needs the space to work its magic. 

We’ve also, of course, got the additional GMT hand which alone adds a few millimeters of thickness as it stacks on top of the standard hours, minutes, and seconds. The height also includes the double-domed sapphire crystal glass on top, treated with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, for added legibility and a nice vintage touch.

Unsurprisingly, the finishing of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is superb. The entire stainless steel surface is meticulously finished in either Zaratsu polishing or a brushed finish to create a stunning visual complexity. 

The tops of the lugs and the majority of the bracelet have a wonderful horizontal brushed finish while the case sides are treated to the brand’s in-house polishing technique, a highly intricate and demanding process that uses a specialized machine that involves holding the metal against a rotating plate. It’s an extremely precise skill that is done entirely by hand and one that results in an opulent mirror-like finish.

Sitting atop the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a ceramic bezel – a new feature for the Sport GMT model at the time of its release. The glossy black ceramic insert is expectedly decorated with white engraved 24-hour markers to be used in conjunction with the GMT complication. 

The bezel has a slight slope to its architecture which again helps to detract from the thickness of the case. We’re also presented with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock, offering a 200m water resistance and easy ambidextrous use, and a screw-down case back decorated with the Japanese watch brand’s famous lion emblem in relief.

A Glossy Black Dial

I’m so used to reviewing Grand Seiko watches in the Elegance or Heritage collections that are intricately decorated with complex patterns and colors that a dial like the one owned by the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch seems almost impossible to comment on. Truth be told, by Grand Seiko standards, it’s a simple dial. However, it couldn’t – or shouldn’t – be any other way.  

The glossy black display pairs beautifully with the matching black ceramic bezel and becomes the perfect canvas for the mass of functions placed at the center. Sometimes, simplicity is key, especially when you have a lot of information to offer. If this dial was patterned with some of the more fanciful decorations Grand Seiko are known for, it would likely become difficult, if not entirely impossible, to read at a glance.

Although simple in its execution, that’s not to say that the dial of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch doesn’t involve the brand’s high levels of attention to detail. For starters, the hands and hour markers are all hand-finished to perfection, diamond-polished, and faceted to create a subtle glimmer in light for enhanced legibility. The cardinal hour markers and the hours and minute hands offer further readability with the use of glow in the dark Lumibrite on their tips.

Meanwhile, the GMT hand is finished in a bright red and contrasts against the black backdrop very well. This arrow-tipped hand also features its own Lumibrite insert for added legibility. On the outskirts, the dial offers an inner bezel with another set of 24-hour numerals, but these only display odd numbers. 

It’s another ingenious way of ensuring effortless readability at a glance. There’s also a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock and a date window at 4 o’clock. The date window cleverly replaces the hour index and features no silvered border – a design decision that helps to integrate the date complication seamlessly without it becoming overbearing or obtrusive.

A Spring Drive Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is, as its name suggests, one of GS’s infamous Spring Drive movements. The exact caliber in question is the Caliber 9R66 which was first introduced back in 2006. 

If you’re not familiar with Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, then in short, it’s basically a mechanical movement with some quartz technology included for better levels of accuracy. It has an escapement Seiko calls a “tri-synchro” quartz regulator to ensure its precision but still utilizes the mainspring of a traditional mechanical movement. It’s basically the best of both worlds. 

One of the biggest draws of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement is its smooth sweeping seconds hand. I can say this without doubt: the Spring Drive has the smoothest seconds hand I’ve ever seen. It will always fascinate me and it’s something I could watch forever. For its list of specs, the Caliber 9R66 has a 72-hour power reserve, which is neatly displayed on the dial front, and an accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month.

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is also a “true” GMT. What this means is that the hour hand for local time can be independently adjusted, unlike an “office” GMT, where the GMT hand is the only hand independently adjustable. 

In this case, the first position of the crown lets you set the hour hand while the second position adjusts both local time and GMT. This feature is especially useful for travelers who need to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously and want the flexibility to set their local time without disrupting the watch’s ongoing timekeeping.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a full stainless steel, three-row link bracelet. It works perfectly with the sporty, almost aggressive personality of the design and has great proportions compared to the case. I do wish it had a bit of a taper, even as little as 2mm, to reduce the sense of bulk, but it still wears incredibly well and feels comfortable and durable.

As I mentioned earlier, the bracelet has mostly brushed surfaces but there are a few Zaratsu polished elements added to the edges of the middle links to echo the finishing of the case sides. It’s wonderfully finished, as you’d expect, and a huge bonus for many is that it’s one of the few Grand Seiko bracelets to come with micro adjustment. 

It has four micro-adjust slots in total, so you’ll easily get the perfect fit. There are also screws to remove and add in links, and several half links included. If you’re less keen on the metal bracelet and would prefer something more casual like a black leather band, thankfully, the 20mm lug width and drilled lugs will make finding alternative watch straps super easy.

On-Wrist Experience

It’s no surprise that with its compact dimensions, curved lugs, easy-to-read dial and exceptional finishing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a joy to wear. In fact, it’s one of the most comfortable GMT sports watches I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. 

I’d recommend this model to anyone with wrists between six and seven-and-a-half inches, but as always, don’t let that deter you if you have wrists smaller or larger. I have five-and-a-half inch wrists, and with a love for oversized statement watches, this still looks incredible on me. 

In the same way, if you have large wrists and you want something super compact, comfortable, and easy to throw on, you’ll equally enjoy the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch retails brand-new for $6,200. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, so you know you’re receiving a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. Alternatively, you might be able to find the model on second-hand markets for around $4,000 to $4,500 if you’re working with a budget. 

But keep in mind that reference SBGE253 is a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you may prefer to save up for another few months so you can afford it brand new. It’s a non-limited edition and as far as we’re aware, it’s not going anywhere anytime soon.

Conclusion

So, to go back to my original comments in the introduction, let’s just have a quick run-down as to why I think the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 is a hard-to-beat GMT watch. 

Is it durable for those traveling adventures? Yes. Is it capable of withstanding those dips in the pool and ocean? Yes, and more with a 200-meter water resistance. And does it look good? Absolutely. It’s a beautiful watch in more ways than one, offering compact sizing for a comfortable feel, a hand-finished dial and case, and more importantly, an impressively precise Spring Drive movement that will never let you know. What more could you want in a GMT watch?

Sometimes, I think it’s good to try on and test out watches you wouldn’t typically go for. I’m someone who typically leans towards minimalistic dress watches with relatively small case dimensions and clear, colorful dials. 

But what that does mean is that my collection becomes filled with watches that all look the same. Sure, they’re watches that make me happy, but sometimes I wish I had a watch that was different. 

I’m sure you also have those days where you feel a little braver and want to wear something larger or maybe something more masculine but still sophisticated. My advice: try on watches you wouldn’t normally choose. 

It’s for this reason, I’m reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255. It’s a watch I’d normally give a nod of appreciation to, simply because it’s Grand Seiko, but I wouldn’t necessarily try it on because of its dimensions and overly sporty and masculine design. But here I am, testing out this undeniably handsome, but albeit different to my norm, timepiece. Here’s how it went…

History of the Grand Seiko GMT

If you’re here, then I probably don’t need to waste your time explaining how much of a big deal Grand Seiko is in the luxury watch world. The company kicked things off back in 1960 with the aim to prove that the Japanese could do watchmaking just as well as the Swiss. 

For most of their early history, they were busy creating in-house movements and high-performance dive watches. So much so that they didn’t launch their first GMT model until 2002. 

This model was the SBGM001, and it looked very different to the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 I’m reviewing today. It was rather dressy with a brightly polished case and an understated cream dial. But it was a game-changer, especially for those who needed to track multiple time zones as they traveled the world but didn’t want to sacrifice on style. 

But here’s the thing: while their GMT watches have always been amazing, many of them – especially in their Sport family – have been rather large and, for some, oversized. 

The sporty GMT models equipped with their ground-breaking Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements were typically stuck in these 44mm cases, which is huge if you’ve got a smaller wrist (or just prefer a more compact watch). That all changed in 2020 when Grand Seiko dropped a new range of GMT Spring Drive watches in a much more wrist-friendly 40.5mm size. 

These new models didn’t just shrink the case—they also brought in some sweet upgrades, like a fixed ceramic bezel, 200 meters of water resistance, and a new bracelet with a micro-adjust feature. 

The collection debuted four iterations in total: the SBGE253 with a sleek black dial and bezel, the SBGE257 with a vibrant green combo, the SBGE255 with a stunning blue setup (the model I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing), and the SBGE263, a limited edition with an “Eagle” dial made exclusively for the U.S. market.

A Compact Case

One of the standout features of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255—besides its top-notch caliber, which I’ll dive into soon—is its case dimensions. As I mentioned earlier, this is one of Grand Seiko’s most compact GMT models, yet it still packs an oversized GMT function. 

GMT watches tend to be on the larger side, or at least a bit chunky, because of that extra layer of hands, but this one manages to keep things relatively compact. It measures 40.5mm in diameter and 48.7mm lug-to-lug, though it’s worth noting that the lug-to-lug is closer to 50mm when you include the end links of the bracelet since they don’t articulate. 

It wears pretty well overall, but it does have a solid height of 14.7mm—thanks to the extra GMT complication and the double-domed sapphire crystal, which has anti-reflective treatment on the underside. 

The silhouette of the stainless steel case sticks closely to the look of Grand Seiko’s larger Sport GMT models. Essentially, they’ve just downsized the dimensions to fit more wrist sizes while keeping all the original design DNA intact. 

You’ve got that nice curvature along the sides, with Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing on certain elements, which gives the case those crisp, distortion-free mirror finishes. The polishing is mixed with brushed surfaces for a nice touch of visual depth. 

A lot of the case’s real estate is taken up by the bezel, which is made from glossy blue ceramic and features an engraved white 24-hour scale for the second time zone. 

Following the lead of Grand Seiko’s dive watches, the SBGE255’s case has a screw-in case back and a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock. This crown position not only helps with comfort but also adds to the watch’s sporty personality. 

These features combine to give you a solid 200 meters of water resistance, which is perfect for a watch like this, in my opinion. I’ve always thought GMT watches should have at least 100 meters of water resistance—after all, these are the watches you’re taking on your travels, so they need to be able to handle whatever comes their way. 

It’s great to know the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 will handle a dip in the pool or even a dive in the ocean without a problem on your next holiday.

A “Simple” Dial

Housed beneath the domed sapphire crystal of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch is a deep blue dial, and one that might initially seem understated, especially compared to some of Grand Seiko’s more intricate designs. 

Many of the watchmaker’s dials often feature complex textures inspired by Japanese culture, but here, they’ve gone for a more straightforward approach with a deep navy metallic sunburst finish. 

Sure, it’s simpler than other Grand Seiko dials, but it’s still got its own charm, fitting perfectly with the watch’s sporty, masculine vibe. The dial’s simplicity actually lets the watch’s functions stand out more. 

Take the sloped chapter ring around the edge, for instance—it’s got 24-hour indices marked at odd numbers, making them easier to read. The scale is also split into navy and silver sections to differentiate between day and night hours. 

Moving inward, there are white printed minute markers and a set of faceted, polished hour markers that are beautifully hand-finished. The indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 are larger, making the watch easier to read and giving space for small patches of lume to improve visibility in the dark. 

The shape of the hour and minute hands echoes the indices, with both featuring tapering tips and lume of their own. A smooth seconds hand and a bright blue GMT hand round out the set. 

Other dial features include a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock, finished in black and white, and a date window at 4 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker to keep the dial clean and concise. 

The applied GS logo sits proudly at 12 o’clock, while the lettering at 6 o’clock denotes the Spring Drive GMT movement. The “GMT” part of the text is highlighted in the same blue as the GMT hand. 

Naturally, since the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch has some lume on the dial, I had to test it in the dark. I’m happy to report it performs well. While it doesn’t have as much lume as a Grand Seiko dive watch, the subtle green glow is perfectly in line with its sporty aesthetic, adding just the right touch of luminous readability without going overboard.

A Spring Drive Movement

I’ve mentioned it before, but I’ll say it again: Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements are one of the greatest achievements in watchmaking. For those unfamiliar with the Spring Drive, it’s a unique movement that blends the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. It uses a traditional mainspring to store energy, just like a mechanical watch, but it also incorporates a quartz oscillator for precise timekeeping. This combination means you get the smooth, sweeping motion of the second hand and an incredible rate of accuracy. 

For example, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 is powered by the Caliber 9R66, which is tested to be accurate to +/- 15 seconds a month, or about +/- 1 second per day. The movement is also a “true” GMT. 

\Unlike some GMT watches that simply add a second timezone on top of a standard movement (often referred to as an “office GMT”), the 9R66 is a true GMT. This means it has a dedicated mechanism for tracking a second time zone so you can set the GMT hand independently in one-hour increments, which is especially handy for frequent travelers. 

It also means you can adjust the GMT hand without affecting the local time or the minute hand, making it easy to keep track of multiple time zones. 

Additionally, the Caliber 9R66 boasts a power reserve of 72 hours or three days. That means you can take the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on Monday morning without worrying about it losing time. 

While I can’t show you the movement directly since it’s hidden behind a screw-down case back adorned with the Grand Seiko lion logo, rest assured that it’s beautifully decorated. I’ll forgive the lack of an exhibition case back since we’re getting an enhanced 200-meter water resistance instead.

A Bracelet with Micro Adjustments

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch comes with a well-suited three-link bracelet that attaches neatly to the case at 20mm. It’s a perfect match in terms of proportions and style, fitting the sporty aesthetic just right. The stainless steel features mostly brushed surfaces with a few polished accents to match the finishing of the case perfectly. 

One of the best features of this bracelet – at least for me – is the inclusion of micro adjustment. It has four micro-adjust slots, which means you can get that perfect fit no matter how your wrist size changes throughout the day. 

And let’s face it, micro adjustment is a game-changer, especially for a GMT watch. When you’re on holiday, you might go from a sweaty outdoor adventure, where your wrist swells up, to a cooler indoor setting where it shrinks back to normal. Being able to tweak the bracelet’s fit on the fly is super handy in these situations. 

If you’re not a fan of the metal bracelet, or if you’re traveling in warmer climates and prefer something more comfortable, you can easily swap it out for any 20mm strap. There’s a huge range of 20mm straps that would look great on this watch. My first thought was a dark brown calfskin leather band, which could give it a nice, sophisticated look. The drilled lugs make swapping straps a breeze, so you’re not stuck with just one option. The bracelet closes with a twin-button folding clasp, which features the Grand Seiko logo in relief.

On-Wrist Experience 

When I first pulled the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch out of its box, I was worried it might still be too big for my five-and-a-half-inch wrist. But I was pleasantly surprised. 

While it is a relatively thick watch—something that’s common with most GMTs—I found the wearability to be excellent. This is largely thanks to the 40.5mm case width and the curved lugs that gently hug the wrist. 

In terms of fit, I’d say it would comfortably suit wrists ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches. And even if you have a wrist that’s a bit smaller or larger, you could still pull it off depending on your personal style and preferences. The design does a great job of balancing presence with practicality, which can be hard to do with a GMT watch. 

Visually, it’s a stunner. The Grand Seiko Sport GMT Spring Drive SBGE255 exudes a confident, masculine charm that I know many of you will enjoy. It’s versatile enough to transition seamlessly from formal to casual settings. 

Whether you’re dressed in a sharp suit or rocking a t-shirt and jeans, this watch fits right in. Its aesthetic is particularly well-suited for travelers who often find themselves moving between different dress codes. The ability to switch effortlessly between casual and formal wear makes it the ideal companion for a variety of situations.

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 watch retails for $6,200 new at authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. You might also be able to find it for a little cheaper on pre-owned or second-hand marketplaces. I saw a few examples for around $4,500 to $5,000. The model is not a limited or special edition and remains a current mainstay in the Japanese watchmaker’s Sports collection.

Conclusion

Overall, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 is a stunning watch, and as I mentioned in the introduction, it’s a perfect example of why you should always be open to exploring styles that aren’t typically your go-to. 

I’ve genuinely fallen for this piece. It’s bold and masculine in its design yet manages to be compact enough to fit comfortably on nearly any wrist size. Plus, it’s technically unbeatable in terms of functionality and precision – I’ll never not be impressed by the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement.

But honestly, one of my favorite features of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGE255 is the bracelet. Mainly because it’s one of just a few GS bracelets that actually comes with micro adjustment! This model’s integration of this feature is a significant improvement and one that will definitely be appreciated by anyone who values a perfect fit.

I honestly have no complaints about this watch. It’s a well-rounded, well-sized package that combines style, functionality, and comfort. My only piece of advice is to visit your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer and try it on for yourself. Seeing how it looks and feels on your wrist will help you appreciate its true charm and make sure it’s the right fit for you.

When I think of fall, I typically think of burnt oranges, reds, and golden yellows. So, if someone told me they were creating a watch inspired by autumn, I’d be surprised to see a watch with a navy blue dial. 

But alas, Grand Seiko has always been a luxury watchmaker full of surprises, and their Grand Seiko Heritage SBGH273 watch, a timepiece inspired by Shunbun, the sixteenth of the twenty-four sekki or seasons which falls around the time of the autumn equinox, is one of the same. The design reveals a beautiful navy blue dial evoking the hue of a clear autumn night sky, and let me tell you, this is yet another Grand Seiko dial worth seeing in person.

The Grand Seiko Seasons Collection

The Grand Seiko Seasons collection, the family of watches that houses the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGH273 watch, first made its debut in 2019. But, for some of us, there was a catch – it was exclusive only to the U.S. market. Thankfully, for those of us living across the water, the collection was finally made available globally in 2021 and has ever since become a special edition staple in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio.

If you know anything about Grand Seiko, it’s that they’re masters of craftsmanship with a knack for creating watches that are basically works of art. They’re best known for drawing inspiration from Japan’s rich natural landscapes and cultural traditions, infusing these elements into their designs. The Seasons Collection is a perfect example of this, featuring dials that are nothing short of breathtaking, inspired by one of the 24 “sekki” in Japan’s seasonal calendar. 

The original Grand Seiko Seasons collection included four watches, each representing a different sekki. You’ve got the SBGA415 “Taisetsu,” which captures the peaceful stillness of winter with its frosty dial, and the SBGA413 “Shunbun,” a pink-hued ode to the fleeting beauty of sakura blossoms in spring. Then there’s the SBGH271 “Rikka,” a lush green homage to early summer’s fresh breeze. 

And then, there’s the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGH273 “Shubun.” This is the model I’m lucky to be reviewing today, and according to Grand Seiko, it is designed to channel the crisp, clear beauty of a moonlit autumn night, “tsukiyo,” with a dial that feels like a quiet evening. Boy, I’m excited to take this one for a test drive.

A 40mm Steel Case

I’ve often found that some of the most beautiful watch cases are those done by Grand Seiko. It’s because their cases are created in-house, by hand, and not shopped for by some external supplier like so many watch brands do (which ultimately leads to all watch cases looking the same). 

In this instance, the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273’s case is housed in stainless steel, not just any steel, but completely hand-finished steel that is treated to the company’s Zaratsu polishing. 

This is a technique that results in a stunning mirror-like finish. I’m not talking just a quick buff; it’s a process that is painstaking and can take craftsmen about three years to master. But the result is worth it. It’s a case with surfaces so smooth and reflective that it could work as a mirror on the wrist. It works perfectly on a watch like this that blurs the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. 

The case’s shape is modeled after the iconic 62GS, Seiko’s first automatic watch from 1967. The 62GS was groundbreaking, featuring a bezel-less design that focused attention squarely on the dial—something that’s beautifully echoed in the SBGH273. The sleek, angled profile of the case is pure eye candy, drawing you in with its simplicity. 

Size-wise, it has a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug length of 47mm, and a thickness of 12.9mm. It strikes that sweet spot between too small and too large and becomes one of those rare pieces that will fit comfortably on just about any wrist. It looks great on my relatively small frame, and I have no doubt it will look just as good on wrists as large as 7.5 inches – especially if you like the look of smaller, vintage-esque timepieces. 

The box-shaped sapphire crystal set on top adds further vintage flair by mimicking the look of old-school plexiglass while providing modern durability with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for a nice touch of legibility. Speaking of durability, this is a sports watch at heart. 

With a 100-meter water resistance rating, the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 should be able to handle most of daily life’s encounters. While reviewing this model, it handled light rain and washing dishes perfectly fine. Sadly, I didn’t get a chance to take it swimming but it should handle shallow waters easily too. 

The screw-down crown, neatly positioned at 3 o’clock, assists in the water resistance keeping a closed seal between the case and the outside world. It’s gently knurled for easy grip and proudly features the GS logo in relief. Flip it over, and you’ll find a screw-down case back with a see-through sapphire crystal window, offering a glimpse into the movement inside. 

The Deepest Blue Dial 

I’ve seen many navy blue dials in my time. It’s one of the most common dial colors on the market – and for good reason. It’s a color that works well with basically any outfit or occasion, but I have to be honest, after a while, navy blue can get a little boring. But with the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 watch, I am anything but bored. This might just be one of the deepest and richest blue shades out there. I have no idea how Grand Seiko achieved the color, but it honestly truly resembles that super deep shade of blue you see in the sky in the evening.

As mentioned in the introduction, the dial color is inspired by the clear night skies that Japan enjoys at Shubun, the sixteenth of the twenty-four sekki or seasons that fall around the time of the autumn equinox. Like the case, the dial is hand-finished and boasts a beautiful selection of hardware and a special texture on the dial’s main surface. 

I have to be honest; this might be one of the hardest Grand Seiko dial textures to describe – please go see this model in person at your nearest authorized Grand Seiko retailer if you can. The best way I can describe it is as a subtly-grained finish, almost like a light dusting of fog or clouds. 

It’s a subtle effect but one that works all too well with the simplicity of the rest of the design. As for dial furniture, Grand Seiko utilizes their familiar sharp hands for the hours and minutes with brushed detailing and faceted, hand-applied hour markers with both polished and brushed finishing. 

For a brilliant touch of contrast, and one that echoes the way that moon and stars illuminate the sky at night, the seconds hand is done in yellow gold. This adds a warm and luxurious touch to the dial. To match, the GS logo at 12 o’clock is also done in the same metal. 

The only other points of reference on the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 watch’s dial are the date window at 3 o’clock, handsomely outlined with its own silvered border, and the white printing used for the Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and the lettering at 6 o’clock. The latter notes details about the in-house movement working hard inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 watch is powered by the Caliber 9S85, a standout in Grand Seiko’s lineup of 9S hi-beat movements. This caliber operates at an impressive 36,000 vibrations per hour (5Hz) and boasts 37 jewels, providing reliable time and date functionality.

True to Grand Seiko’s rigorous standards, the Caliber 9S85 surpasses even the stringent COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) regulations. It’s meticulously adjusted in six different positions in Grand Seiko’s own factory and tested to ensure accuracy within -3/+5 seconds per day. 

The movement’s impressive reliability is largely due to the Spron 610 hairspring, which Grand Seiko claims offers three times the resistance to electromagnetic frequencies and twice the shock resistance compared to its predecessors.

With a robust 55-hour power reserve, the Caliber 9S85 not only performs exceptionally but also looks stunning when admired off the wrist. The movement features Zaratsu-polished plates and bridges, delivering a mirror-like finish that complements the watch’s case beautifully. Additionally, the Geneva stripes on the rotor and perlage on the mainplate add to its visual allure.

We understand that most of you shopping for a Grand Seiko watch might be leaning more towards one powered by their Spring Drive movement. It’s understandable; these provide higher levels of accuracy and, of course, that signature smooth sweeping seconds hand. That said, I do believe the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat series deserves equal recognition- especially when it’s packaged in a watch as beautiful as this.

A Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 comes with a stainless steel bracelet that matches the case finishing nicely. It features staggered link sizes and alignment, giving it a sporty yet stylish look. The bracelet is mostly brushed steel but with some polished accents in the center links that add a touch of elegance and break up the design nicely.

That said, the bracelet is probably the weakest link in this otherwise stellar watch. It’s not ugly by any means, but for a watch made to this standard, it’s a shame to see it lacks any sort of micro-adjustment. Without micro-adjustment, it’s tricky to get the perfect fit, especially since our wrists can swell and contract throughout the day. On the plus side, it does have adjustable half links with screws which can make a big difference in securing a close fit.

The bracelet’s 21mm lug width may also make finding alternative straps a challenge. I’d love to see the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 on a deep navy alligator or calfskin leather strap—something that would really complement the dial. The only snag? Matching the depth of the dial’s navy blue in a strap isn’t going to be easy. 

Luckily, changing straps won’t be a problem because the watch has drilled lugs, which makes swapping out straps a breeze. The bracelet itself has a single-fold deployment clasp that’s both satin and polished, with the GS logo embossed on the outside.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 wears exceptionally well on the wrist, thanks to its thoughtfully balanced dimensions. With a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug length of 47mm, and a thickness of 12.9mm, this watch straddles the line between a sports watch and a dress watch. The deep navy dial and Zaratsu polished finish give it a refined, dressy appearance, while the substantial thickness and robust build suggest a sports watch pedigree.

For those with wrists as small as 6.5 inches, you will find this watch comfortable and stylish. It’s large enough to make a statement without being overwhelming. And honestly, if you have wrists even smaller than this, and you’re like me and you love an oversized watch, it might still look great. 

On the flip side, those with wrists up to 7.5 or even 8 inches will find this watch to be a versatile and elegant choice, particularly if you favor more compact-sized timepieces. I do wish the watch were a touch slimmer, though so it would be easier to slip under tight shirt cuffs, but that’s a minor trade-off for the automatic movement inside.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 is priced at $6,300 when purchased from authorized Grand Seiko retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re considering the second-hand market, you can typically find it for around $4,500 to $5,000. However, it’s crucial to do your homework before buying from gray market dealers. Opting for an authorized retailer ensures you receive a certified warranty and a genuine watch.

While this model is a special edition, it’s not limited, so there’s no immediate rush to buy. That said, the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273 has been around since 2019, so it’s worth keeping in mind that it might be discontinued sooner rather than later. So, if it is a watch you’re seriously interested in, don’t wait if you don’t have to.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t already tell from this review, I really love the Grand Seiko Heritage Shunbun SBGH273. It’s a beautiful watch and another with press images that don’t do it justice. Online, it looks like any typical navy-dialed dress watch – and there are plenty of them out there. But in person, and on my wrist, it has really impressed me. The case finishing is immaculate, with the mirror-polished capturing just as much attention as the dial.

But truthfully, the dial is the real star. The tone of navy blue is beautiful; it’s a deep, intense shade of blue that I’ve never seen before, and it works all too well with the gold accents on the dial’s hardware. I also love the subtle texture. It brings this wonderful level of light play to the wrist, taking it from royal blue to almost black depending on the angle and light you hold it in. The only drawback is the bracelet, which I wish had micro adjustment but honestly, it’s a sacrifice I’m willing to take for a watch this beautiful.