Author: Charlotte H

I have to be honest, there are few collections of watches in the luxury market that have captivated quite as intensely as the Grand Seiko Seasons Collection. I’ve followed this collection with bated breath ever since it debuted in 2019, but since these models aren’t all that easy to come by, I’d only ever seen a few in person. 

To me, this is a collection that has set a new benchmark for dial construction – even for Grand Seiko – with each dial reflecting one of the twenty four “sekki” in Japan (more on that shortly). The original four models featured Spring Drive movements and have become popular models in their own right. But a few years later, another installment was introduced: the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch. This model combines a uniquely textured dial inspired by “Shōsho,” the high summer, and is powered by one of the brand’s in-house hi-beat GMT movements. 

History of the Grand Seiko Seasons Collection 

For those of you new to the Grand Seiko Seasons collection, this is a line-up of beautiful dress watches from the Japanese watchmaker that captures the essence of the four seasons through exquisite dial designs. 

In Japan, they don’t simply just name the months spring, summer, fall, and winter. Instead, they have 24 “sekki”, solar terms in the Japanese calendar that mark specific seasonal changes. Grand Seiko’s Seasons Collection reflects these “sekki” with dials that embody the unique colors and textures of the changing seasons. 

When the first four models of this collection were released in 2019, they set a new standard in dial craftsmanship and showcased a clear distinction between Grand Seiko and its sibling brand, Seiko. While Seiko offers a range of quality timepieces, Grand Seiko operates as a separate entity, focusing on high-end, intricate designs with superior mechanics. 

These initial models featured Spring Drive movements and classic time-and-date-only displays. A little later, in 2020, Grand Seiko introduced several exclusive models for the US market, also powered by Spring Drive movements but with added power reserve indicators. 

Then came the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch in 2021, which added an extra layer of functionality to the collection. This model incorporates a GMT hand and a 24-hour scale powered by a Hi-Beat movement. 

My initial concern was whether this additional functionality would overwhelm the dial, potentially detracting from the sophisticated aesthetic for which Grand Seiko is known. However, as a frequent traveler, I find that having a GMT feature is incredibly practical, and I’m eager to see if the SBGJ249 manages to maintain the refined elegance of the Seasons Collection while offering this added functionality.

A Tall Stainless Steel Case 

As soon as the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 arrived for review, I couldn’t wait to strap it onto my wrist. And let me tell you, I was blown away—most by the dial (which I’ll dive into shortly) but also by the overall case design. 

With a relatively small wrist of about five and a half inches, I was excited that a GMT watch with these dimensions wore so well.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s definitely a statement piece, but that’s exactly what I love about it. The size is perfect for getting noticed without feeling overwhelming. 

The Grand Seiko SBGJ249 measures 39.5mm wide, 14.1mm thick, with a lug-to-lug span of 46.9mm. The width is ideal—versatile enough to suit a range of wrist sizes – while the thickness is on the larger side for a dress watch, making it a bit more challenging to slide under a tight shirt cuff. But that said, you have to appreciate that the movement inside needs that space to work its magic. The extra height is down to the additional GMT hand and the box-shaped sapphire crystal. 

The case back does feature a domed, almost bubble-like finish that helps the watch to sit lower than its height suggests, though it’s still relatively thick for a dress watch. The case shape is a nod to the classic 62GS design, and as such, most of the case is polished using Grand Seiko’s renowned Zaratsu technique, which creates a mirror-like finish. The sloping stepped bezel, case sides, and faceted lugs all benefit from this high polish, with just enough brushed detailing to highlight the crisp transitions that Grand Seiko masters so well. 

Unlike some earlier models in the Grand Seiko Seasons collection, this one has a 30-meter water resistance, compared to the 100 meters we’ve seen before. While I wish it offered a bit more protection—especially since I’d consider this a go-to travel watch—it’s still a dress watch at heart, so 30 meters isn’t out of the ordinary. The water resistance is mainly due to the knurled and polished push-pull crown at 3 o’clock, which replaces the typical screw-down crown seen on other models.

A Water-Inspired Dial

Grand Seiko is famous for many things: their meticulous Zaratsu-polished cases, their in-house movements, and, of course, their stunning dials. I can’t think of a time I’ve been disappointed by a Grand Seiko dial, and the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 certainly lives up to these high standards. 

What I love most about Grand Seiko isn’t just that they create beautiful dials; it’s that they weave elements of Japanese culture into every design. Whether inspired by the intricate patterns of traditional Japanese fabrics or the textures of a specific tree near the Grand Seiko studio, their dials always tell a story.

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch, it’s part of the Seasons collection, celebrating one of the 24 “sekki” called Shōsho—late summer. The dial has a soft, understated elegance, colored in a crisp pale blue that shifts to almost silver depending on the light. 

According to Grand Seiko, it’s meant to evoke the surface of water when sunlight dances on it, and the wind creates gentle ripples. Water was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the dial, so Grand Seiko has truly nailed the aesthetic.

This is one of those dials you can stare at for ages, and as always with Grand Seiko, it looks even better in person than in photos. While I’m not certain of the exact techniques used to craft this dial, I’m sure it wasn’t easy—despite the dial’s relaxed, effortless appearance, with its horizontal brush strokes that create these delicate waves.

The circumference is adorned with a half-style printed railway minute track in black, interrupted by faceted indices with polished surfaces. Just inside the hour markers is the 24-hour scale, printed in deep navy blue, perfectly matching the heat-treated blue GMT hand. 

The hour and minute hands are sharp and dauphine-shaped, while the seconds hand is left sleek and simple. Completing the design is a sculpted date window at 3 o’clock, an applied GS signature at 12 o’clock above the black-printed Grand Seiko logo and the movement details neatly printed at 6 o’clock.

As I mentioned earlier, my biggest concern with the SBGJ249 was whether the dial might feel cluttered with the addition of extra complications. But I’m happy to report that it doesn’t. Grand Seiko has done a fantastic job of balancing the new markings and hands, maintaining the elegance of a dress watch while adding practical functionality.

A High-Beat GMT Movement 

The most notable change for the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch compared to previous novelties added to the brand’s Seasons collection is its movement and the added functionality that comes with it. 

While Grand Seiko is perhaps best known for their innovative Spring Drive movements, which blend the best of mechanical and quartz technology, they also have an impressive lineup of Hi-Beat movements that are purely mechanical and boast remarkable performance. 

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 is powered by the Caliber 9S86 movement, a robust automatic winding movement with anti-magnetic and shock-resistant properties. It also has a power reserve of 55 hours and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (that’s 10 beats per second). 

It’s also impressively been adjusted in six positions and offers an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day, which is even better than the standard set by COSC for chronometer certification. 

The added GMT complication in this watch is a “true” GMT function, which is a significant feature for frequent travelers like myself. Unlike an office GMT, which requires resetting all the hands to change time zones, a true GMT allows you to adjust the local hour hand independently using the crown in the second position, without stopping the seconds hand or affecting the accuracy. 

This means you can switch time zones seamlessly while the watch continues running smoothly. And while it’s not quite as fluid as a Spring Drive movement, the seconds hand of the Caliber 9S86 still glides relatively smoothly, making ten tiny incremental jumps every second, compared to the 6 or 8 jumps of standard movements running at 3 or 4 Hz. 

The movement is showcased through the screwed case back of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch, protected by sapphire crystal. While the finishing of the movement isn’t overly decorative, it’s fitting for a movement focused on functionality. You’ll find wide Geneva-style stripes across the central bridges and oscillating rotor, polished screw heads, a polished barrel, bevelling on the bridge edges, and gold-filled engravings.

A Metal Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch follows the classic style of the Seasons Collection, featuring a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The outer links are brushed, while the inner links have a polished finish, creating a subtle yet striking contrast. The bracelet is secured with a two-button deployment clasp, topped with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

The clasp is slim and tapered, which gives the watch a sleek profile on the wrist. However, this does mean it doesn’t include a micro-adjustment feature, which might be a drawback for those who prefer precise sizing. Fortunately, the bracelet comes with half links, allowing for some degree of fine-tuning to get that perfect fit.

One thing to keep in mind is the 19mm lug width. While it can be a bit tricky to find straps in this size, the good news is that the watch has drilled lugs, so making strap changes is easy and hassle-free. So, even if the 19mm width limits your options a bit, you’ll still have the flexibility to swap out the bracelet for a strap that suits your style. I’d personally love to see this watch on a dark blue alligator leather strap. I feel like it would suit the dial and its navy blue hardware perfectly.

On-Wrist Experience 

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch make it versatile enough to fit a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as five and a half inches (if you prefer a larger watch) to around 7.5 inches. However, the watch does have a noticeable thickness due to its domed sapphire crystal and automatic movement, which means it’s not the best option for slipping under a shirt cuff. 

This gives it a sportier feel, though it can still be dressed up for more formal occasions. On the wrist, it feels incredibly sturdy and robust—exactly what you want from a watch when you’re traveling. You need that peace of mind, knowing you have something reliable that you don’t have to constantly worry about. 

Now, does the 30-meter water resistance let it down a bit? Yes. I’d say that’s the biggest drawback for me with this watch. It’s something to keep in mind, especially if you’re used to sports watches that can handle a quick dip in the pool. But as long as you’re aware that this isn’t your typical sports watch and remember to take it off before getting into the water, it’s not a deal-breaker. 

For me, the standout feature of this watch, and what really makes it a joy to wear, is the dial. It’s breathtaking. I’ve honestly found it hard to focus on writing this review because I keep getting lost in the dial’s beauty. The texture, while subtle, is exquisitely detailed, perfectly capturing the effect of light dancing on a breezy water surface—just as Grand Seiko intended. The color is equally stunning, hovering between pale blue and silver and shifting depending on how the light hits it. It’s the kind of dial that will make this watch a conversation starter, no matter the occasion.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch retails brand new for $6,800 from authorized Grand Seiko stockists like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s not the smallest of price tags, but when you take into account the level of case finishing, the in-house hi-beat movement with added GMT complication, and, of course, the insane finishing on the textured dial, the price really does make sense. 

In fact, I think it’s well-priced for a watch of this caliber, and having worn it this past week, I think it is worth every penny. If needed, you can also find the watch on the second-hand market for a little cheaper. I’ve seen a few pre-owned models offered between $4,500 and $5,000. 

At the time of writing this, the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch is a permanent fixture in the Japanese watchmaker’s collection. But it is a model that has been around for three years now, so if it’s one you’re really interested in, I wouldn’t leave it on your bucket list for too long.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 is a stunning watch, but like any design, it’s not without a couple of minor critiques. The first is its water resistance. With only 30 meters, it’s a bit less than I’d expect for a watch that gives off a daily-beater, travel-friendly vibe. However, considering that it looks like a dress watch, this level of water resistance isn’t unusual—most dress watches have similar ratings.

My other concern is the case thickness. It’s a bit taller than I’d typically prefer, but I understand that when you’re dealing with a hi-beat movement of this caliber and added complications like a GMT, the case needs to accommodate those features. So, while it’s not as sleek as some other options, the extra height is justifiable.

That said, everything else about this watch is exceptional. The case finishing is top-notch, the movement’s accuracy is impressive, and as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the dial is truly the star of the show. I can’t find a single flaw with the dial. Even my initial concerns about it feeling cluttered due to the GMT hand and 24-hour scale have been put to rest. It’s a gorgeous watch, and as long as you’re mindful of the water resistance and dimensions, I’m confident you’ll love it as much as I do.

Fall is my favorite season. There’s something beautiful about the sound of crunchy leaves on the ground and the excuse to add pumpkin and cinnamon into every recipe. It’s also a time when a subtle yet captivating palette comes to life, often filled with oranges, rust and deep red. But when autumn comes near its end, there are other tones that we often don’t even notice. These include the delicate silvers of frost and the muted green tones of fading leaves. It’s this nuanced spectrum of colors and textures that Grand Seiko beautifully brings to life in their Heritage SBGA427 watch, a watch I have been excited to get hands-on with for quite some time now.

Grand Seiko’s Seasons Collection

If you haven’t already checked out Grand Seiko’s Seasons collection, I urge you to do so. The Japanese watch brand has managed to capture the essence of Japan’s twenty-four “sekki” in a range of dial designs. “Sekki” basically describes the different markers of the changing seasons throughout the year. 

Whereas we simply describe them as spring, summer, fall, and winter, the Japanese have a more poetic way of watching the journey of nature, whether it’s the exact moment spring awakens, known as “risshun”, or the first days of winter known as “daikan”. It’s a collection I’m incredibly fond of. There’s something really beautiful about the way Grand Seiko tells the story of the seasons and captures the look and feel of the weather and views through unique dial colors and textures. 

The collection originally debuted in 2019, introducing four watches that represented one of Japan’s twenty four sekki. These included the Grand Seiko SBGA413, named Shunbun, acting as a tribute to Japan’s cherry blossom season, and model SBGH271, known as Rikka, which honored the moment spring turns to summer. There was also SBGH273, or Shubun, to celebrate the autumnal equinox, and finally SBGA415, named Taisetsu, portraying the serene beauty of winter’s deep snowfall. 

Then, in 2020, Grand Seiko expanded the collection further with two special editions exclusive to the United States. One of these is the very watch I’m reviewing today, the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427, also known as “Soko”. This particular model celebrates the very end of autumn when the classic warm oranges of the autumn season begin to turn gray and silver as frost starts to embrace the forest.

A 62GS-Inspired Case

While the original Grand Seiko Seasons models from 2019 were a bit on the large side for my wrist—although I’d still wear them if I was feeling brave —the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 feels a lot more comfortable and wearable, especially if your wrists are on the smaller side. The difference might seem subtle, but it makes a noticeable impact. This model is slightly more refined at 39mm in width and just 12.3mm in height, compared to the previous 40mm models with their 13mm height. It’s also worth noting the slightly shorter lug-to-lug distance of 46.8mm, versus the 47.0mm of the older editions.

Like before, the Grand Seiko SBGA427 pays homage to the historical 62GS, Grand Seiko’s first automatic watch released in 1967. Known for its striking mirrored, multi-sided case and bezel-free design, the 62GS was famous for its Zaratsu-polished finish, giving it an organic, almost ethereal feel. The SBGA427 mirrors this legacy with its own sleek and soft profile that beautifully hugs the wrist.

Crafted from stainless steel with both satin and polished finishes, the watch’s polished surfaces are achieved through Grand Seiko’s intricate Zaratsu technique. This process involves meticulously polishing the stainless steel against a spinning tinplate—a craft that takes around three years to master. While Zaratsu is often used on smaller components, it’s impressive to see it applied to the entire case, resulting in a finish that captures the light beautifully. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 watch features a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, knurled for easy grip, and offers 100 meters of water resistance, underscoring its sporty design. The case back is also screwed down and includes a sapphire crystal window to showcase the Spring Drive movement inside. Above the dial, another piece of sapphire crystal is added, this time a dual-curved piece treated to anti-reflective coating on the inner surface to enhance readability in various lighting conditions.

Dial

Before we get into the details of the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427’s dial, I mentioned that there were in fact two special editions launched in 2020 exclusive to the US market. Both these models bear the nickname “Soko”, translating to “frost descends” to represent the end of autumn when the first frost touches the forest. Although named the same, their dials offer distinct variations. 

Model SBGA429, the sibling to today’s Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427, features a darker gray dial reminiscent of the shadows cast by bamboo at autumn’s end. In contrast, the SBGA427 showcases a light silver dial that represents the fleeting breaks of light in the forest of Arashiyama. Both displays exhibit a vertical grained pattern and touches of green, reflecting the diverse hues of bamboo stalks. 

The vertical satin-brushed texture of the surface cleverly emulates the tall, slender bamboo trees and creates a dynamic display that shifts in color depending on the light and angle. The dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 transitions from a light silver to a slightly darker gray, and in some cases, even displays a soft pale blue in certain lighting. 

For a brilliant touch of contrast, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 watch uses emerald green for the seconds hand, power reserve hand, and the movement lettering at 6 o’clock. The rest of the dial features silvered elements, including the sharply faceted hour and minute hands, indices, and date window border, all meticulously hand-finished with diamond-tipped milling tools to mirror the Zaratsu-polished case’s high shine. The only additional hint of color is the subtle gold on the “GS” logo at 6 o’clock, positioned above the black “Grand Seiko” text.

Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 is powered by the well-known Caliber 9R65 movement, a standout Spring Drive movement made in-house by the Japanese watchmaker. Unlike traditional mechanical movements that rely on a balance wheel and escapement, Spring Drive movements combine the best of both mechanical and quartz watchmaking. 

It uses a traditional mainspring for power, but instead of a conventional escapement, it features a unique glide wheel and a quartz crystal to regulate timekeeping. This allows for a sweeping seconds hand that moves in a completely smooth, continuous motion without any of the jerky beats or stutters you might see in other watches.

It arrives with a generous 72-hour power reserve, which you can easily track on the power reserve indicator on the dial front, and an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month or +/- 1 second per day. It really is a technical feat, combining the reliability of quartz with the charm of mechanical movements. The 30-jewel movement is visible through the exhibition case back, showcasing beautiful decoration, including striped plates and an oscillating rotor.

Straps

The design arrives on a classic three-link bracelet with a staggered link alignment for a modern, sporty look. Like the case, the bracelet is beautifully finished with polished outer flanks with their own mirror-like finish and top surfaces that are satin-brushed. It’s a pleasing set of contrasts that blends well with the case, almost making it seem like one solid piece of stainless steel. 

While the bracelet doesn’t include micro-adjustments, it does come with half links secured by screws, which allows for some flexibility in achieving a more precise fit. The single-fold clasp is finished with both polished and satin touches and features the GS logo in relief. It also employs a twin trigger release for added security and ease of use. 

One notable aspect is the 19mm lug width, which is somewhat an uncommon sight in the world of watches, so finding an alternative strap or two might be a little tricky. However, that said, it does have drilled lugs, so swapping out straps is made nice and straightforward if you’re up for a change. Speaking of straps, the watch includes a factory strap as part of the package. This strap features a crocodile pattern with green stitching that perfectly complements the green details on the dial. This strap is finished with its own stainless steel deployment buckle. 

On-Wrist Experience 

For me, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 is the perfect fusion of a dress watch and a sports watch. Its dimensions make it incredibly versatile and wearable. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 46.8mm (50mm if you include the male end links), it sits comfortably on wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches and looks just as elegant on those above seven inches.

The design strikes a fantastic balance between sophistication and durability. Its elegant case finishing and textured dial add a formal touch, while its 100-meter water resistance and robust build make it resilient enough for daily wear. Whether you’re heading to a board meeting, enjoying a night out, or embarking on an outdoor adventure, this timepiece will no doubt transition seamlessly through all these scenarios.

I’d describe the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 as a democratic watch; it suits a broad range of wrist sizes and occasions. If you have a wrist size up to 7 inches, you’ll find it an excellent fit. However, if your wrist is larger than 7.5 inches, you might find it on the smaller side—unless you prefer that kind of style. For those seeking a high-end, premium watch that’s versatile enough to wear every day, this watch is a great choice. 

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 watch retails brand new for $5,000 at authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. You might also be able to find it on second-hand websites for a little cheaper if needed, although, at the time of writing this, it wasn’t an easy one to find pre-owned. Those that I could find seemed to be advertised for around $3,500 and $4,000. 

The watch is marked as a special edition, which means that although it’s not limited to a specific set of numbers, it will only be available for a specific duration. For now, it remains a permanent addition to the Japanese brand’s portfolio, but as for how long that will be the case is hard to say.

Conclusion

You hear all the time about how Grand Seiko is dedicated to handcrafting their watches, with hand finishing used both inside and out. But it’s not until you experience one up close that you truly appreciate the craftsmanship. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 is a stunning example of this commitment. Its beauty isn’t just something you talk about; it’s something you feel on your wrist. From the exquisite dial finishing to the overall case design and Zaratsu polishing, every detail is executed to perfection—something you’d expect from Grand Seiko, but it’s always a joy to see in person. Even though I’ve worn numerous Grand Seiko watches, each time I put one on, including this model, I’m reminded of why I’ll never tire of them.