Author: Kurt Tiedemann

Cartier, a brand that needs no introduction, was founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier and quickly became a favorite among royalty and the wealthy elite. Over the years, Cartier has crafted absolute masterpieces – definitions of style and panache – adorned with gems, precious metals, and intricate designs.

Cartier’s signature style is unmistakable; elegant lines, clean designs, and iconic shapes. The brand’s most well-known watches, the Tank and the Santos are certified classics and are beloved among celebrities, royals, and aristocrats the world over. It’s a simple truth that one can’t think of a quadrilateral wristwatch without confronting the image of a Cartier.

In this ultimate guide, we’ll explore the history of Cartier, from its modest Parisian start to its modern-day stylistic dominance, delving into the intricacies of some of the brand’s vintage timepieces. Whether you are a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey into the world of vintage watches, this guide will provide you with everything you need to know.

From Pilots to Princesses – The Endless Allure of Cartier

Cartier watches have been worn by some of the most influential figures of the past century, from aviators to royalty. Cartier can make the stunning (and surprising) claim of having produced the first-ever dedicated pilot’s watch (more on that shortly) as well as having supplied multiple royals with suitably elegant timepieces. 

Princess Diana was a notable wearer of Cartier watches, whose enduring admiration for the humble Cartier Tank was a well-known aspect of her style. Another fan of the simple Tank, John F. Kennedy, could often be seen wearing his. Likewise, Madonna’s Panthere and Cristiano Ronaldo’s Santos are undoubtedly watches that speak to and for the character of their owners – uniquely stylistic pieces that combine classic design elements with modern innovation, resulting in an effortlessly enduring product. 

The only Cartier is, quite clearly, Cartier. Nothing else even comes close, and that’s why so many people have chosen the brand’s watches as their daily accompaniment for over a century.

A History of Cartier – The Tradition of Style

Cartier is one of the most respected and recognizable luxury brands in the world of watches, but it hasn’t always been so. Established in Paris in 1847, Cartier made its start as a bespoke jeweler under its founder, Louis-Francois Cartier, before eventually expanding into the world of high-end timepieces and, indeed, taking that world by storm thanks to the efforts of Louis’s enterprising grandchildren.

One of Cartier’s earliest and most famous watch designs is the Santos de Cartier, created in 1904 for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This innovative watch was designed to be worn while flying, with a leather strap that was more comfortable than the metal bracelets of the time. 

The Santos also featured a square case, which was a bold departure from the ubiquitous round cases of the early 20th century. This four-sided design ethos would carry forward to the present day as a signature element of Cartier’s most highly renowned watches. 

Shortly after creating the Santos wristwatch, Cartier signed an agreement with Edmond Jaeger (yes, that Jaeger) to supply all of the company’s movements exclusively. So began Cartier’s pursuit of commercial horological success, and in the 1920s, the company introduced another profoundly iconic watch. 

The Cartier Tank was inspired by a birds-eye perspective of the design of tanks in World War I and featured a clean, simple rectangular case that quickly became a symbol of sophistication, minimalism, and style. Over the years, the Tank has been updated and refined, but it remains one of the world’s most identifiable and enduring watch designs and a signature part of the Cartier catalog.

Cartier’s success was propelled almost exclusively by the Tank for years until the 1930s when the brand began considering different styles and designs inspired by the one-off creation of the first ‘Pasha’, a timepiece made for the Pasha of Marrakesh. Known for its oversized case, screw-down crown, and distinctive Arabic numerals, the Pasha became a symbol of luxury and sophistication upon its public release decades later, adding a dimension of boldness and unabashed charm to Cartier’s visual identity.

In the 1980s, Cartier introduced the ‘Panthere’ watch, a distinctly-80s women’s timepiece designed to capture the spirit of the brand’s iconic panther motif. The watch featured a square case with a diamond-set bezel and a flexible bracelet representing a panther’s agility and grace. The Panthere watch was a hit among discerning ladies and remains a pleasantly obscure favorite to this day.

Cartier has continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watch design in recent years, exploring new materials such as carbon fiber with great fanfare. However, the attraction of the brand’s flagship designs is still the driving force behind Cartier and certainly represents the ideal version of Cartier’s watches, hence why we’re focussing on the company’s vintage offerings here.

Notable Vintage Cartier Watches

Cartier Santos

Since its public release in 1911, seven years after Louis Cartier created the first model for his friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos line has become a key part of Cartier’s catalog and may well be the brand’s most popular watch among men. 

Traditionally masculine features such as a square face and a prominent bezel are key attributes of the Santos. But, of course, Cartier has done things their way, rounding the edges of the case and creating a frame-like bezel with exposed screws. These subtle changes place the Santos in a singular realm of design; strong yet soft, conclusive yet fluid.

The most notable version of the Santos is the Cartier Santos Dumont, the longest-running iteration of the design and, thus, the closest to the original watch. These can be found with both quartz and automatic movements in steel, gold, and two-tone finishes. As with all the Santos variations, the Dumont looks best on a bracelet. Trust me.

Another strong contender for the most attractive vintage Santos is the Santos Galbee, which was released in the 1980s. Cartier’s response to the quartz crisis, the Galbee (which means ‘curved’ in French), is a touch more bowed than previous models, hugging the wrist with its slightly arching profile. For this reason, the Galbee is generally considered the most comfortable Santos, a claim I wholeheartedly agree with!

Cartier Tank

The Tank is quite obviously the most iconic member of the Cartier watch family. Its simple design and universal wearability make it a celebrated timepiece – a rectangular-shaped case, and gently rounded form have become definitive elements of horological culture since the Tank’s creation in 1917. 

The brancard case sides are not only frames for the dial but lugs as well, and it is this transition from frame to lug that defines the minimal personality of the Tank. Like most Cartier watches, the Tank is traditionally adorned with Roman numerals, so expect to see a lot of Xs and Vs during your search for the right one.

The Tank Louis Cartier was the second generation of this classic timepiece (the first being the Tank Normale) and, thus, remains a highly sought-after and respected watch that certainly has a place in every collection. 

The Must De Cartier Tank was introduced in the ‘70s as a more affordable entry into the brand, with either an ETA or quartz movement and a reductively plain face. Although the Tank Must can be found with a variety of dial designs, the single-colored variations are the most definitive of this model and, if you ask me, the most beautiful.

Finally, the Asymetrique is perhaps the most daring version of the Tank, having turned heads with its slanted appearance since 1936. The Asymetrique is certainly an acquired taste, given its off-center design, but this watch is an absolute icon in the world of fashion and haute horology.

Ronde De Cartier

What makes the Ronde De Cartier range different from most Cartier watches is obvious – these timepieces are round. The fact that, like most watches, the design of the Ronde case is circular doesn’t detract at all from the stark Cartier-ness of these tickers. 

The Cartier Ronde Must, a highly affordable steel design that’s available with either a quartz or automatic heart, is Cartier’s most approachable watch. Fret not – the dial, blue hands, and blue stone crown all define this watch as a Cartier, even if it doesn’t have four sides.

As with the Tank collection, there is a Ronde Louis Cartier, which represents a higher-end version of the Ronde Must, with an automatic movement, rose gold case, and blue sapphire crown. Like the Ronde Must, the Louis Cartier is available in altogether approachable sizes, with the most common being the 36mm.

Panthere

First seen in a watercolor painting made for Louis Cartier in 1914 (which would go on to become Cartier’s main symbol), Cartier’s favorite cat would eventually (inevitably, some would say) lend its name to the brand’s seminal unisex release. Studded with diamonds and produced in smaller sizes, the Panthere line was unveiled in 1983 and represents the merging of Cartier’s jewelry and horological pursuits. 

Reminiscent of a smaller, more feminine Santos Dumont, the Panthere line is defined by a riveted, square bezel, Roman numerals, a faceted octagonal crown, and a five-piece link bracelet.

From its introduction, the Panthere was made available in 5 sizes, mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo. Note that although jumbo brings to mind images of building-sized trucks and human head-sized burgers, the Panthere Jumbo maxes out at a dainty 31mm. Hardly the wrist-eating watch that its size descriptor alludes to.

Although they’re available in steel and all-gold, it’s the two-tone Panthere that has caught the eyes and hearts of most Cartier enthusiasts, and I certainly think that the dual-metal finish is the most attractive. If you’re particularly interested in the Panthere and have some scratch to spend, look out for the coveted Moonphase model in 18k white gold – it’s one of the most gorgeous watches you’ll ever see.

Should You Buy a Vintage Cartier?

I know – it’s hard not to be captivated by the idea of a Cartier on the wrist of a cooler, classier version of you. But before you take the plunge and make a brash, costly purchase, it’s important to weigh the pros and cons of buying a vintage watch.

On the one hand, vintage Cartiers are a testament to the brand’s history and heritage, given that they exhibit a unique charm that simply can’t be replicated by modern timepieces. They also often feature vintage movements made by some of the most talented watchmakers of the time, rendering them tangible vestiges of Cartier’s illustrious past.

However, these timepieces also come with their fair share of demerits. Being vintage means that whatever you’re buying will have been through years of wear (and tear), and it can be difficult to determine the true condition of an item without the help of an expert.

Additionally, many vintage Cartier watches will have been subtly modified or repaired by unauthorized hands over the years, which can greatly impact their value and authenticity. Ultimately, whether or not you should buy a vintage Cartier depends on your individual preferences and risk tolerance.

If you’re willing to take the time to research and verify the authenticity and condition of a vintage Cartier (which you should definitely do), it can be one of the most rewarding purchases you’ll ever make. However, if you’re not comfortable with the potential risks and uncertainties, it may be better to opt for a modern timepiece instead.

‘Old’ is the New ‘New’

Just as we know the sun rises in the morning, so too do we accept that no collection can be truly complete without a Cartier. With their timeless elegance and rich history, vintage Cartiers offer a uniquely storied glimpse into the world of luxury watchmaking. 

Although purchasing one requires careful consideration and research to ensure its authenticity and value, it’s a quest worth embarking on if you’re after an incomparable timepiece. After all, a Cartier never goes out of style.

The relationship between timepieces and motorsport is undeniable. Racing watches not only capture the essence of speed and precision but also embody the spirit of adrenaline-fuelled competitions. From the roaring racetracks of yesteryear to the cutting-edge circuits of today, these timepieces have become cherished companions of drivers and enthusiasts alike.

I’ve scoured the horological landscape to curate a diverse selection of racing timers that caters to all budgets so that we can all indulge in some high-speed wrist fashion.

Changing Gears and Switching Lanes – About Racing Watches

These timekeeping dynamos are ostensibly purpose-built for petrolheads, blending cutting-edge technology with suave aesthetics, and certain definitive characteristics separate the winners from the backmarkers. 

First and foremost, their design almost always exudes a sporty flair, with bold dials and vibrant color accents that pay homage to the edgy and fast-paced world of motorsports. Striking chronograph functions take center stage, allowing drivers to time laps with precision and clarity.

But it’s not just about looks; you’ll find some serious technicality under the hood of a racing watch. From tachymeter bezels that measure speed to robust movements capable of enduring extreme G-forces, these timepieces are engineered to perform flawlessly in high-octane environments. 

Beyond the racetrack, racing watches have secured a place as coveted accessories for watch enthusiasts and style aficionados alike. So, whether you’re burning rubber on the asphalt or not, a racing watch may well be the thing your collection is missing.

The Timing of Velocity – A History of Racing Watches

The popularity of racing watches can be traced back to the mid-20th century when the racing world first began to captivate the collective imagination. As motorsports grew in prominence, watchmakers recognized the need for timepieces tailored to the needs of drivers.

One of the most impactful models in the racing watch style is the legendary Rolex Daytona. Introduced in the 1960s, this iconic chronograph instantly became synonymous with gears and glory. Its sleek design, reliable movement, and innovative tachymeter bezel allowed drivers to measure speeds with unmatched precision.

Groundbreaking timepieces such as the Daytona and the Heuer Monaco ignited a fervor for racing watches that persists to this day. Their distinctive characteristics – sporty dials, chronograph functionality, and vibrant color schemes – have become hallmarks of the genre.

The Best Racing Watches

Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph

Dan Henry’s 1962 Racing Chronograph is a horological homage to the fearless racing drivers of an era where raw talent and unwavering courage defined greatness on legendary circuits like Le Mans, Silverstone, Spa, and Watkins Glen.

The 1962 boasts a tachymeter bezel and comes in three versions; the classic Panda, the rebellious Evil Panda (my favorite), or the striking Blue. With straps available in different styles and colors, you can customize this piece to your heart’s content.

At 39mm in diameter, the 1962 harks back to the traditional size of vintage racing chronographs, ensuring a nostalgic aesthetic and wearability that makes it a very approachable watch. But don’t let its vintage charm fool you – underneath the hood lies a cutting-edge Seiko caliber VK63 meca-quartz movement.

The optional date version of the 1962 showcases a clever detail inspired by its history – the 31st day is highlighted in vibrant red, serving as a reminder to adjust the date during those months with 30 days – a thoughtful touch for forgetful mooks such as myself.

Turn the timepiece over, and you’ll discover a faceted, screw-in case back engraved with the profile of the groundbreaking Maserati Tipo 60 ‘Birdcage’. As a final salute to exclusivity, an individual serial number from the limited edition of 1,962 pieces sets your Dan Henry apart from anyone else’s.

The watch comes with a retail price of $280.

Casio Edifice ECB-2000NIS-1AJR

This ECB-2000NIS-1AJR encapsulates the mesmerizing allure of the Nissan Z Super GT racer, fusing its eye-catching features with the essence of an Edifice timepiece. Inspired by the striking red-to-black transition that defines the Nissan Z #23 from front to rear, this watch boldly (and I mean boldly) exhibits the same color scheme. 

The 23-minute marker is emblazoned with a special ’23’, paying homage to Nismo’s car, while the dial design ingeniously incorporates the ‘Z’ logo found on the car’s rear fender, utilizing authentic graphic data from Nismo.

Crafted with a carbon fiber-reinforced resin case, the ECB-2000NIS-1AJR feels as tech-heavy as you’d expect a Casio of this order to. Connect your smartphone via Bluetooth to unlock a world of precision timekeeping and automatic calibration to local timezones and effortlessly fine-tune various functions through the app. 

A whole lot of features have found a home in this unapologetically loud Casio. Some will love it; others will rue the day they laid eyes on it. That’s the beauty of a watch like this – it’s not afraid to be what it is. You can find this watch for around $400.

Autodromo Prototipo Chronograph

Autodromo’s Prototipo Chronograph is a modern take on the vintage racing chronographs of the golden era of racing, with an endearingly minimalistic design. The watch recalls the curved body shapes of prototype cars from the late ’60s and early ’70s. 

With its Seiko hybrid quartz chronograph movement, the Prototipo features a 1/5 second sweep hand and instant chronograph reset. A Tachymeter scale to calculate average speed and a Pulsometer scale to calculate heart rate encircle the dial, with an unobtrusive date window at 6 o’clock. 

The Prototipo is water-resistant up to 50 meters, has a stainless steel case with sapphire crystal, and is finished with a genuine leather strap. The case features flathead caseback screws, replacing the hex screws of the original series, a fine finish that is further accented by the face’s orange hands, which match the strap to create an alluringly stylized timepiece.

The watch comes with a retail price of $595.

Seiko Speedtimer SSC813

Seiko’s SSC813 is a verified icon, boasting a classic aesthetic that blends effortlessly with modern elements. The stainless steel case, measuring a confident 42mm in diameter, exudes a sense of Japanese precision, with a brushed finish, bold pushers, and polished accents that command attention, making it the perfect companion for formal occasions and high-speed adventures.

Behind the sapphire crystal lies a captivating white dial with contrasting black sub-dials that set the stage for vibrant lume accents and provide profoundly accurate readings of elapsed time.

Powered by Seiko’s renowned quartz movement, the Speedtimer SSC813 ensures unwavering reliability. This exceptional timepiece boasts a chronograph function, allowing you to time laps or record personal bests with ease, and water resistance of up to 100 meters, in case you want to take it off-road.

The Seiko Speedtimer lineage dates back to the iconic watches used in various sporting events, including the legendary 1964 Tokyo Olympics, so there’s even a bit of historical relevance here, to boot. The watch comes with a retail price of $695.

Citizen Promaster Bullhead Racing Chronograph (ref. AV0076-00X)

This limited edition Citizen is a magnificent update of the iconic 1973 Citizen Bullhead model. With its crown and pushers positioned on the top of the case, reminiscent of a bull’s horns, this watch merges retro-inspired design with a contemporary twist, made more desirable by the fact that it’s limited to only 1,973 pieces worldwide to honor its debut year.

Driven by a meticulously hand-assembled movement, the Bullhead impresses with a 1/5-second flyback chronograph and alarm function. Its instant flyback mechanism swiftly resets the second hand to zero with a single button press. 

Additionally, the watch features a tachymeter, power reserve indicator, and date display. The vintage-inspired green dial may be the busiest dial you’ve ever seen, but it all seems to work somehow.

A standout element is the Bullhead’s leather strap, which screams ‘1970s’ thanks to its perforations which, aside from being cool as hell, promote airflow and are finished with sports green stitching and a green underside.

Powered by Citizen’s innovative Eco-Drive movement, the Bullhead uses light energy, rendering batteries unnecessary and thus filling its 45mm stainless steel case with nothing but machinery. If you’re after something a little bit out of the box, this is it.

You can find this watch for around $900.

Nezumi Voiture Chronograph (ref. VM1S.201)

In celebration of their 10-year watchmaking journey, Sweden’s Nezumi firm unveiled their inaugural mechanical chronograph, the limited edition Voiture, the most striking feature of which is the angular frames of its sub-dials.

These harken back to some older pieces, which established more aggressive face designs to contextualize the racing watch within a high-octane world. The Voiture’s 316L stainless steel case exudes timeless elegance at 40mm in diameter and with a lug-to-lug length of 47mm.

Its satin black fixed bezel showcases a refined tachymeter scale insert, while the push/pull crown proudly displays the brand’s ’N’ logo. Crafted in Germany, the Voiture is propelled by the exceptional Swiss Sellita SW510 Mb manual-wound movement, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).

Each Voiture chronograph is individually numbered between the lugs, showcasing its exclusivity and time-stamping the watch as a testament to Nezumi’s decade-long dedication to horological excellence. You can find the Nezumi Voiture Chronograph for a little over $1,000.

Yema Speedgraf (ref. YSPEE2019-AU31S)

While you may not have heard of Yema, I assure you that their Speedgraf is worth your attention. Drawing design inspiration from the heyday of racing culture, its black dial is adorned with white sub-registers and a black diver bezel, creating a striking visual contrast and a vintage character enhanced by a domed sapphire crystal and its 39mm steel case. 

Telemeter and tachymeter scales evoke the spirit of vintage auto racing, as does the red-tipped second hand, which adds a touch of flair to the dial. A stylish screw-down crown on which the YEMA logo is embossed is a lovely touch – these kinds of things scratch my collector’s itch. 

The Speedgraf comes with a vintage rally strap crafted from brown leather with large perforations reminiscent of older sports cars’ steering wheels. This helps set the watch in racer territory as it could slide into the diver realms on another strap or bracelet quite effortlessly.

Equipped with the brand-new Seiko NE86 caliber, with 34 jewels and a remarkable 45-hour power reserve, the Speedgraf is a neo-vintage chronograph that offers exceptional value for just $1,650.

Tissot Heritage 1973 (ref. T124.427.16.051.00)

For all of its childishness, this Tissot may be the most interesting watch on the list. The first thing one notices about the Heritage 1973 is not its striking panda dial but the dashes of color that punctuate it. Best seen on the black background (there’s a blue version which I definitely do not prefer), orange, red, and dark blue accents bring this otherwise ordinary watch to life.

Equipped with a tachymeter and perforated strap, the 1973 exudes a classic racing vibe with a touch of charm. An oval stainless steel case evokes a vintage feel that encases all of the joys of the watch face fittingly. Beneath it, the Valjoux A05.H31 caliber offers precise timekeeping and a remarkable power reserve.

If you’re after something a bit more playful than many of the other racing watches you’ll see on this list, I’d say go for this wonderfully lively Tissot. It’s a breath of fresh air, truly. You can usually find the Tissot Heritage 1973 for a little less than $2,500.

Longines Heritage 1973 (ref. L2.791.4.72.0)

The Heritage 1973’s stainless steel cushion-shaped case measures a refined 40mm in size, but with a case height of 14.50mm, it’s a fairly chunky watch. Despite this, I’m a fan of the black dial with silver sub-dials (the opposite is also available) and the Rhodium-plated hour markers adorned with luminous dots. 

It’s a simple yet insistent timepiece, and although I struggle to swallow the case shape (sharp corners aren’t really my thing), I have to admit that it’s undoubtedly a well-finished watch.

At a retail price of $3,250, this automatic timepiece houses the revered Longines calibre L688.2, based on the ETA A08.L01 movement, and with an impressive power reserve of 54 hours, it guarantees reliable performance. Accompanied by a black leather strap bound by contrasting stitching for a touch of elegance, the Heritage 1973 and its endless indices certainly belong on the track

Oris Williams Chronograph (ref. 01-774-7717-4154-07-8-24-50)

This Oris is a rather big boy, with a 44mm stainless steel case topped by sapphire; it showcases a tachymeter scale top ring, adding a sporty touch to its appearance. The black dial plays it relatively safe, elevated from the mundane by blue hands and crisp, white indices. The three subsidiary dials display continuous seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counters. 

It feels like a lot and very little all at once, perhaps due to the heavy impressions the case and integrated bracelet make, given that it’s a lot of steel. It comes on a bracelet but is also available on a rubber band, which I think is a worthwhile consideration. 

Powered by the automatic winding Oris 774 movement, you won’t ever have to worry about its timekeeping abilities – with its fine-timing device and stop-second function, it meets the demands of racing enthusiasts and watch aficionados alike. I mean, if it’s good enough for the Williams F1 team…

You can find this watch for around $3,300.

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Mulliner (ref. AB0118A71G1P2)

The Bentley Mulliner chronograph is a tribute to Bentley’s Continental GT Convertible Mulliner Edition, and only 1,000 pieces are available. Inspired by the interior of the luxurious Bentley GT, this chronograph features a blue alligator leather strap and blue and red accents that mirror the car’s design. 

The vertically brushed silver dial brings to mind Bentley’s Breitling dashboard clock, with complementary sets of Arabic numerals shared between the two pieces. Proudly showcased on the left side of the case is an engraved “Bentley” plate, reminiscent of the engine dashboard found in historic Bentleys. 

The self-winding mechanical movement, Breitling 01, provides precision and reliability with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. With all of this, Breitling has successfully packaged automotive luxury into a high-end timepiece.

You can find this beautiful Breitling chronograph for around $7,000.

Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey Titanium 42mm (ref. 542.NX.7071.RX)

I’ve said it a thousand times (and I’ve contradicted myself a thousand more) – I’m not really a Hublot guy. While I find many of their watches to be either too big or too ostentatious, I am constantly surprised by the anomalies in the firm’s collection. The Classic Fusion Racing is a perfect example – minimal by design, approachable in size, and utterly reliable as a timekeeper. 

The 42mm iteration is arguably the most popular version of this watch, and like all other versions, it consists of a hard titanium case and a soft rubber band. The bezel, adorned with 6 H-shaped titanium screws, speaks to Hublot’s sophisticated mechanical style, and the dial features a captivating satin-finished grey sunray pattern, creating a visually stunning display made all the more attractive by the lack of detail on or around it.

It bears mentioning, if you’re considering a different size, that there is a certain compositional equilibrium present on the 42mm, which the other versions don’t capture, in my opinion. It’s an intangible detail, but it’s there, and for $7,600, you don’t want to find that out after you’ve left the store.

TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

Upon its release, the original Monaco revolutionized the industry by making a boldly left-field design statement. The Monaco Calibre 11, priced at $7,800, holds a special place in horological history as an homage to its legendary origins, featuring the left-side crown that signifies the end of manual winding as a necessity. It was famously featured on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the classic racing film Le Mans and has since been coveted by collectors the world over.

A striking blue dial with horizontal steel indexes, square silver sub-dials for chronograph minutes and hours, and a date display at 6 o’clock set this watch in a paradigm of its own. Completing the racing-inspired ensemble is a seriously stylish black calfskin leather strap, specially finished to mimic the texture of racetrack asphalt.

Underneath its captivating exterior lies the Calibre 11 automatic movement, which keeps sharp time with a balance frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The Monaco is about two things and two things only – style and performance and much of what makes this timepiece great is its inherent sense of pride, which oozes from every millimeter.

Panerai Luminor Chrono Daylight Firenze (ref. PAM00224)

Although I’ve been told, not completely inaccurately, that Panerai is a bit like licorice – you either love it or you hate it – I believe that there’s an exception to every rule. In this case, it’s the Daylight Firenze, a subtle yet bold watch limited to only 100 exclusive units.

This automatic timepiece isn’t as gregarious as many Panerais, but it’s not exactly a dormouse, either. Encased in a polished 44mm steel case, the Firenze exudes a sense of strength that suggests it may survive a fiery crash, for example, completely unscathed.

The steel bezel surrounds a glistening blue dial with sub-dials and a set of lume Arabic numerals, and the screw-back case, engraved with the front of the Panerai Boutique in Florence, pays tribute to its Italian heritage while the crown lock sets this timepiece in definitive Panerai territory. 

Functionally, the watch offers hours, a calendar aperture, minutes, small seconds, and a chronograph for precision timing. The moment is in-house, and it’s impressive, to be sure, but any sense of intrigue one may get from this watch is due to the design and near-brutalist use of steel.

If you’re into Panerai, this is a new grail. If you’re not, this may be the watch that sways you. You can usually find this beautiful Panerai for under $8,000.

Omega Speedmaster Racing (ref. 329.32.44.51.01.001)

It’s all in the name, really. The Speedmaster Racing is Omega’s seminal racing watch, a tweak of the legendary Speedmaster timepiece that virtually defines the brand.

A 44.25mm stainless steel case is accentuated by a black ceramic bezel adorned with orange accents that echo orange touches on the dial and hands. In contrast, the matte black dial is encircled by a distinct racing-style minute track, which likely lends the timepiece its name.

Two sub-dials with blackened applied rings, along with a discreet date window at 6 o’clock, seamlessly blend with the dial’s color. The black leather strap features micro-perforations, unveiling an orange rubber interior, a detail I can’t help but chuckle over. The people at Omega know what they’re doing.

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9900 movement keeps things moving, and with a magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, a silicon balance spring, and dual barrels, this self-winding chronograph with a column wheel ensures accuracy and a generous power reserve of 60 hours. 

Its rhodium-plated finish features exquisite Geneva waves in arabesque, adding a touch of elegance to the high-performance heart. This is surely a standout iteration of the Speedmaster range. The watch comes with a retail price of $9,100.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Edition (ref. IW388108)

Now, with the wordiest name on the list, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph ‘Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Edition’ is an exercise in composure. There are two tones on this entire watch, aside from the titanium hue of the case; black and turquoise.

The former defines the dial, while the latter decorates it as numerals and indices. The strap matches these to complete a picture that’s best described as ‘sporty cool’. At the heart of the Petronas beats the 69385 Calibre, an exceptional IWC-manufactured movement with automatic, self-winding functionality that comprises 242 components and 33 jewels.

It’s a nifty piece of gear, no doubt. From the small hacking seconds to the IWC bracelet quick-change system, every detail of this timepiece is meticulously designed – a day and date display, as well as a chronograph function, make for consistently precise timing with a touch of flair that is guaranteed to raise eyebrows both on and off the track.

This particular racing chronograph will set you back about $10,000.

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – Ennstal-Classic 2023 Edition

Join the elite ranks of Ennstal-Classic drivers with the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – Ennstal-Classic 2023 Edition. As the official timing partner of this prestigious racing event,  you’ve got a chance to fulfill your pit-stop timer fantasies in complete style with this ticker.

Another limited edition, with only 23 pieces available, the Chronograph 1 pays homage to the original 1972 model and is powered by the COSC-certified Porsche Design Calibre WERK 01.140, which features a chronograph, day, and date display.

Encased in an understated black titanium carbide-coated housing and measuring a smidge under 40mm in diameter, the dial showcases a deep black hue with white and grey accents, capturing an infallible aesthetic. A standout structural element here is the dish shape created by how the face meets the sunken bezel (if I can call it that).

It lends a sense of charisma to an otherwise modest-looking watch, as does the spare, perforated black leather strap with a Race-Tex backing in guards red, inspired by the “Ennstal-Classic” logo. This isn’t just a watch – it’s a statement of automotive excellence.

This chronograph from Porsche Design retails for $10,500.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 (ref. 68619-4002)

A leading example of what a racing watch should look like, the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 from Chopard is a show stopper. The dial comes in a beautiful lacquered blue, in addition to a satin-brushed finish. I find myself really appreciating the bold Arabic numerals as well. 

If you’re looking for functionality, you won’t have to question; this chronograph is built to impress. The watch gives you a chronograph seconds hand, a 12-hour counter, a 30-minute counter, and visuals that show durable excellence.

This watch is an honored partnership between Chopard and Jacky Ickx, which is what inspires many of its racing designs. More specifically, it didn’t take me long to realize the watch takes inspiration from Jacky’s iconic helmet.

Other notable details I want to highlight are the 50-meter water resistance, 12.88mm case, and the 18k yellow gold screw-down crown. Between elegance, neutrality, and functionality, this watch makes for the perfect accompaniment on the track.

You can find the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 retailed at $12,100.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 126500LN)

You all know the Daytona, no doubt. It’s a name as synonymous with racing watches as it is with high-end timepieces in general. And if you know this, you also know that the bezel is the shining star of this watch, featuring a tachymetric scale molded into sleek black ceramic (denoted by the LN code at the end of the reference number). 

With the ability to measure speeds of up to 400 miles or kilometers per hour, this bezel combines high technology with a timeless design reminiscent of the iconic 1965 model. Crafted from monobloc Cerachrom, a high-tech, proprietary ceramic, it boasts corrosion resistance, scratch-proof durability, and color stability against UV rays.

The white dial showcases snailed counters, 18 ct gold applique hour markers, and Chromalight hands that emit a luminescent glow for exceptional legibility, and the central sweep seconds hand guarantees precise readings to 1/8 of a second, while two counters display lapsed time in hours and minutes. 

It’s the ultimate tool for drivers to strategize their track times flawlessly. Thrown (or gently placed) on a quintessential Oyster strap, the Daytona is an absolute icon of horology and a ceaseless inspiration to drivers and watchmakers everywhere.

The new Daytona comes with an approximate retail price of $15,000.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback (ref. 5200 1210 G52A)

Another titanium case entry – this 43mm Bathyscape showcases an exquisite blend of grace and sturdiness. What’s unique about this from the offset is the fact that it’s waterproof up to 300 meters, so when they finally popularize underwater racing, demand for this watch should shoot through the roof.

Being a marine-centric racer, this timepiece embraces the spirit of exploration with a sail-canvas strap crafted from high-quality fabric, but its comfort and durability make it an ideal companion for every journey.

I find the quadrilateral baton hands to be this watch’s most eye-catching aspect, given that they contrast the ubiquitous circular elements of the timepiece subtly yet effectively. Details like this separate the tools from the toys, and when you’re paying $17,000 for a watch, you don’t want it to feel like a toy.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive NISSAN GT-R 50th Anniversary SBGC229

This delightfully sporty Grand Seiko pays tribute to the legendary Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R race car with an unforgiving design and bountiful features.

Drawing inspiration from the iconic ‘Bayside blue’ color of the GT-R, the ceramic outer case is made of robust ceramic, paired with a lightweight high-intensity titanium inner case, and the watch’s aesthetic harmony is further enhanced by its white crocodile strap, reminiscent of the NISSAN racing livery. 

Seiko’s seminal Spring Drive movement, with a remarkable power reserve of approximately 72 hours, guarantees the height of accuracy. Operating at ±10 seconds per month (±0.5 seconds per day), it exemplifies Seiko’s passion and pursuit of technical excellence.

You can find this limited edition Grand Seiko here for $15,900.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition (ref. 81060-41-3071-1CX)

A homage to the Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant Formula One Team, this watch is limited to just 306 pieces, mirroring the total distance covered by drivers Lance Stroll and Sebastian Vettel at the 2022 British Grand Prix.

The 44mm case is a groundbreaking fusion of titanium powder and carbon extracted from actual F1 race cars used during the 2021 season. Combining these elements with a tinted resin results in a material that surpasses the ductility of steel, ensuring each watch is truly unique, which makes the $27,800 price tag somewhat easier to swallow.

To further flaunt their fast-car geekery, Girard-Perregaux included a sunray dial in mesmerizing ‘Aston Martin Racing Green’, a nod to the iconic Aston Martin ‘AM’ badge of 1921. Lime accents on the chronograph hands mirror the design of the Aston Martin F1 car, and the central chronograph hand’s counterweight mimics the side strakes seen on Aston Martin road cars.

Inside, the emblematic case beats the self-winding Calibre GP03300-1058, which has exceptional accuracy, a comfortable power reserve, and smooth pusher activation. This is a car man’s watch, through and through.

Zenith DEFY Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition

Inspired by the thrilling ‘Extreme E’ electric rally race in Sardinia, this Zenith has the visual presence of a Transformer more than a watch which, to most Zenith fans, will be an appealing quality. Built from a sturdy carbon fiber case adorned with titanium elements and powered by the El Primero 21 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, it’s a marvel of engineering, both inside and out.

The 1/100th of a second chronograph is masterful – the central chronograph hand completes a full revolution every second, while a chronograph power-reserve indication at noon ensures precise timekeeping. The hours and minutes are elegantly presented at the center, with small seconds displayed at 9 o’clock. 

There’s something quite jarring about the color scheme of the face, with the minor elements being highlighted in orange, generating an almost sinister character against the visible movement beneath it. Does this machine have feelings? 

Finally, the orange Velcro strap, made from recycled tires, speaks to the sustainable theme of the watch, a statement piece that reflects the spirit of adventure and nature. This watch comes with a retail price of $30,100.

Roger Dubois Excalibur Spider Huracán Black DLC Titanium 45mm

The Excalibur Spider Huracán is a testament to the thrilling partnership between Italian supercar legend Lamborghini and the Geneva-based horologist Roger Dubuis. Its black DLC titanium case, accentuated by rubber inlays, exudes a stealthy allure, as does the black DLC titanium bezel with lacquered markings, which exhibits a notched, almost militant strength that carries through the rest of the timepiece.

The dial showcases meticulous attention to detail – the lower flange exhibits transferred texts and minute tracks, while the upper flange features screw-like hour markers coated in PVD and filled with lume for enhanced legibility in any light condition.

Fastened to your wrist with a black rubber strap which is embellished with black Alcantara® inlay and black stitching, the Excalibur Spider Huracán is an altogether comfortable piece, even though it’s slightly on the larger side.

If the Zenith is a Transformer, then this beast of a watch is a Decepticon, unwaveringly sharp, flatteringly mean, and full of attitude – all of this for a meager $52,500. I suppose if you’ve got a Lamborghini already, you may as well complete the look.

Richard Mille RM 029 Le Mans Classic

Revving its engines in honor of the legendary Le Mans race, the RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic is a masterpiece limited to 150 fortunate collectors. The green and white color scheme will be instantly recognizable to aficionados of historic racing, as will the stripes that line the upper and lower lips of the case.

Driven by the cutting-edge Calibre RMAS7, this skeletonized automatic watch boasts an impressive array of features, including hours, minutes, and seconds, a 24-hour display, an oversized date, and a variable-geometry rotor.

This rotor comprises a titanium arm and high-palladium 18K white gold weight segments and adjusts the winding process based on the wearer’s activity level. 

This is, like many RM watches, a technical and visual feast. Small details such as the checkered finish flag on the dial and the sporty color scheme all serve to place the RM 029 squarely in the starting lineup of seminal racing watches.

Good luck getting your hands on one, though – they’re probably all safely locked away already! However, if you do manage to get your hands on one, you can expect to pay about double its retail price of $176,000.

Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

Jacob & Co.’s Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon speaks for the ingenious fusion of Jacob & Co.’s glitzy horological mastery and Bugatti’s exhilarating spirit, embodying the raw power of the iconic Bugatti 16-cylinder engine.

On this symphony of innovation, the Chiron-inspired case gracefully merges with the ‘engine block’ movement, showcased beneath a commanding and uniquely-shaped sapphire crystal. 

With a simple push of the right-hand crown, the engine springs to life, flaunting a mesmerizing rotation of the crankshaft and the rhythmic ascent and descent of 16 meticulously crafted pistons, which echo the heartbeat of a true combustion engine.

Comprised of an astounding 578 components, the movement is both complex and artful – the manual winding JCAM37 calibre powers the time display and presents a 1-minute Tourbillon cage inclined at 30° within its 41.7 x 36 mm frame.

Limited to just 126 pieces, this marvel elevates any collection to new heights, and along with the RM above, it’s the most expensive and exclusive entry on the list, at $300,000, and for a good reason. If you’ve got one or have a way to get one, I salute you!

The Finish Line

It’s clear that these timepieces are more than mere accessories – they embody the spirit of speed, precision, and adventure. From affordable contenders offering remarkable value to luxury champions redefining practical opulence, these watches highlight the racing world’s remarkable craftsmanship and engineering prowess. 

Whether you’re a fast-car aficionado seeking to capture the essence of the track or a horological connoisseur yearning for a twist of elegance, these watches will take you where you want to be.

As a teen, a wise and worldly uncle introduced me to an acronym that has stuck with me to this day – K.I.S.S., or Keep It Simple, Stupid. To be clear – he wasn’t calling me stupid but instead sharing a concept that suggests that only an idiot would choose complexity over simplicity when simplicity is available.

This, controversial as it may be, applies to the timepieces we will be looking at here. Bauhaus watches, where form follows function, are some of my personal favorites in the watch world for their minimal effectiveness.

Stripping away unnecessary embellishments, they epitomize the marriage of understated aesthetics and precise functionality, favoring clean dials, uncluttered typography, and geometric shapes to deliver visual harmony that exudes a tangible sense of calm.

Functional Simplicity – The Way of Bauhaus

Born from the iconic German art school in the early 20th century, these timepieces redefine the concept of elegance – conciseness is a founding feature of Bauhaus design and one that you’ll see represented here in all its glory.

Bauhaus principles emerged as a response to the excesses of the ornamental. Rejecting superfluous embellishments, these timepieces embrace the idea that the essential nature of timekeeping must shine through on a watch, unfettered by over-the-top hands or complex cases. Stripped to their core, these timepieces only feature what they must.

Distinguished brands such as NOMOS, Junghans, and even Patek Philippe lead the charge as, over decades, they’ve dedicated man-hours and finances towards creating timepieces that transcend fashion trends and embrace a design philosophy that remains relevant and captivating to this day.

Investing In Minimalism – Should You Buy a Bauhaus Watch?

While the decision ultimately lies in your personal taste, there are compelling reasons why watch aficionados embrace the Bauhaus aesthetic. First and foremost, Bauhaus watches offer a timelessness that transcends fads.

From an investment perspective, Bauhaus watches have proven to be a wise choice. Notable models like the Timex Marlin and Junghans Max Bill have demonstrated their staying power in the market. The Marlin, for instance, can be found at the affordable entry-level price of roughly $200, making it an accessible investment for those starting their collection.

On the other end of the spectrum, luxury brands like Breguet have also embraced the Bauhaus aesthetic, offering options for the discerning investor that reach up to $25,000.

For both the seasoned collector and the budding enthusiast, investing in a Bauhaus watch not only adds a touch of refined elegance to your wrist but also holds the promise of a timepiece that will continue to delight and, in many cases, appreciate in value.

The Best Bauhaus Watches

1. Braun Gents Classic Watch (ref. BN0021)

The BN0021 boasts a refined case diameter of 38mm and is exquisitely slim at a mere 8.5mm in depth. Its stainless steel construction speaks of durability and, indeed, of the preferred metal in Bahuas Watch design – simple, strong, and unaffected by notions of grandeur.

The dial, elegantly cloaked in a sleek black hue, adds the finishing touches to a watch that can be worn with any outfit. Embracing contemporary sensibilities, this timepiece features a 22mm-wide stainless steel mesh strap, which is more intricate than a Milanese strap, veering slightly out of Bauhaus bounds.

Nonetheless, it’s a welcome compliment to the modest face, with a push-button deployment clasp that ensures a secure and seamless fit. Equipped with a quartz movement, the Braun Gents Classic guarantees accuracy and ease of use, ideal for those who appreciate a ticker that does the job minus the fuss.

Its water resistance rating of 5ATM adds a touch of versatility, allowing you to take it on the odd adventure without compromising performance. At a meager $175, this a hardly a watch that you can afford to turn down if you’re thinking of jumping on the Bauhaus train – it’s not going to change the world, but it may just change your mind about what makes a watch great.

2. Timex Marlin Hand Wound (ref. TW2R47900ZV)

An exquisite reissue of a 1960s masterpiece, the Timex Marlin aptly merges the indulgence of a hand-wound mechanical movement with everlasting design ideals, capturing a palpable sense of gentlemanly grace.

If you’re into the antiquated feel of a watch as opposed to just looks, this is one for you – the hands-on experience of winding the crown until you encounter a subtle resistance demands to be a part of your daily ritual, just as it was likely a part of your grandfather’s.

This vintage sensibility carries through on the perfectly polished 34mm stainless steel case and its face, mostly thanks to the silver-tone dial, adorned with Arabic numerals at even hour numbers. The typeface used for these inspires in one a sense of post-war America, when understated elegance in style was face-forward, and dreams were detailed by cufflinks and tie clips.

The Marlin is a little thicker than many Bauhaus designs. However, at 10mm case height and 18mm strap and lug width, it still almost feels as though it’s not there, and ultimately, it may as well not be – silver and black make a very unassuming pair, and unless someone is paying attention, this watch could easily go unnoticed. If anyone cares to double-check, though, they’ll find a timepiece far more alluring than its sub-$250 price point suggests.

3. Junkers Bauhaus (ref. 9.08.01.05)

The remarkable synergy between watches and the Bauhaus movement is well embodied in the Junkers Bauhaus, a timepiece that pays homage to a collaboration that emerged in Dessau, which resulted in the construction of a building that, in many ways, broke ground on the Bauhaus movement.

The most attractive thing about this watch is certainly the cream color of its remarkably uncluttered dial, a traditionalist characteristic that contrasts the timepiece’s otherwise clean build. From any angle, the black indices and slender, lume-filled silver hands can be read with complete legibility. 

What’s more, three subtle dots mark the ends of the indices at 3, 6, and 9, playing into the unbroken shape of the case and breaking up the line-apportioned dial in a wonderfully understated manner. With its unfussy leather strap, the Junkers Bauhaus watch encapsulates the spirit of innovation and forward-thinking that defined the Bauhaus movement. 

The watch comes with an approximate price of $260.

4. Seiko Dolce SACM171

I’m a Seiko man and, thus, can’t help but sing the praises of (most of) Japan’s most famous watchmaker’s pieces. The Seiko Dolce SACM171 is no exception – a trusty timepiece representing Seiko’s well-known mix of reliability and style at a very approachable price.

With its Japanese quartz movement, there’s little to fault here in terms of practicality. Its plain, slightly off-white face and dot-dash indices come across as demure rather than cheap, although a 33.5mm round stainless steel with hard coating does limit it to smaller wrists, which may be an issue for many readers.

While the caiman leather band in black speaks to the Japanese salaryman in all of us, it lacks a certain degree of sophistication that a brown or beige band might afford the watch. That said, it does match nicely with the small black rock that punctuates the crown, which is a quaint, if necessary, addition to a timepiece that is perhaps trying to be more than it is. And it can be yours for around $300.

5. Stowa Antea 1919

Stowa’s Antea 1919 is, for my money, one of the best watches in its class. A captivating timepiece that commemorates the centenary of the Staatliches Bauhaus (the Bauhaus School). This conventionally Bauhaus watch showcases a clean white dial marked by simple black lines for indices. It’s a lesson in minimalism, but its straightforward face is a lure for more discerning fishies.

Anyone who’s into watches for more than just their time-telling qualities will initially like the Antea for its size (39mm wide and just 8.2mm thick) and very soon come to love its meticulously crafted matte case.

Driven by the hand-wound Sellita SW200 mechanical movement, the Stowa Antea 1919 is a hands-on affair (pun intended). What’s more, blue screws and STOWA engraving can be viewed through the watch’s open caseback, another hallmark of the watch’s status that makes its $900 price tag an almost mind-blowing proposition. 

For those of you who don’t have the patience or discipline to hand-wind a watch every day, there’s an automatic option available as well (which is $150 cheaper). Do you need more reasons to buy this thing?

6. Unimatic Modello Due U2S-M

Restraint. Elegance. Sportiness. Boldness. Somehow the Unimatic Modello Due U2S-M encapsulates all of these things. Take one look at the Modello Due, and you’ll feel like you’re seeing the blueprint for a timepiece yet to be released. Ladder phantom hands are filled with lume and do a circular dance around a pitch-black dial.

There are no indices. There’s no date window. There are just 3 lines of white text that denote the brand, country of manufacture, and the U2S-M’s superpower – 300m water resistance. Now, I don’t know who would use a watch like this for diving with, but whoever you are, I believe one thing – you’re a stylish bugger, and for that, I salute you.

Some people will look at this 38.5mm wonder and only see what it lacks, but more insightful individuals will know this Unimatic for what it is – a Bauhaus wonder of the highest order, both aesthetically and technically. With a power reserve of 38 hours and anti-magnetic properties exceeding 4800 A/m, the Unimatic Modello Due U2S-M is built to endure.

It comes with a black two-piece calf leather strap and an additional black two-piece seatbelt strap, both equipped with stainless steel brushed hardware signed by UNIMATIC. It’s not a cheap watch, but it’s still utterly affordable at $845. Buy fast, though – only 500 of these have been made!

7. Laco Heidelberg (ref. 862094)

If you happen to exist at the stylistic intersection of pilot’s watches and Bauhaus, then start salivating now. The Laco Heidelberg is an authentic reconstruction of revered observation watches from the 1940s, known as B-Uhr or Beobachtungsuhren in German.

These tickers were crafted to meet the stringent requirements of the former German Ministry for Aviation, with only a select few companies entrusted with their production. As a nod to their historical significance, the Laco Heidelberg boasts a substantial 55mm diameter, which serves as a timekeeping instrument and a navigation tool (if you have the requisite skills).

For most of us, though, this is just a very cool timepiece. A sandblasted stainless steel case features an ‘FL23883′ engraving, while the domed and anti-reflective Sapphire crystal ensures optimal clarity both in the sky and on land.

The dial, adorned with Superluminova C3, showcases legible numbers and figures, while the thermally blued steel hands, also filled with Superluminova, provide great legibility.

With all that being said, the most noticeable aspect of the Laco Heidelberg is its brown calf leather strap, which is topped by two large rivets on either side, perfectly complementing its vintage heritage. Plus, its price tag of $1,130 is good for the amount of watch you get.

8. Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.02)

The Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.02) is arguably the most well-known contemporary Bauhaus watch. This masterpiece embodies the essence of minimalism and modernity, as envisioned by the iconic architect and designer Max Bill.

Actuated by the wearer’s energy, the self-winding movement calibre J800.1 powers the watch and grants it up to 42 hours of uninterrupted timekeeping. The stainless steel anthracite matt PVD-coated case is home to a white face with black hands that point to any combination of the 1 to 12 sans serif numerals around the dial.

What makes the Max Bill even more impressive is that it has a date window that could easily go unnoticed, despite its paucity of detail. This is the power of Bauhaus design – merging necessities with simplicity to generate a distillation of form.

As a cherry on top, a calf leather strap with an anthracite matt PVD-coated buckle adds a  cosmopolitan touch to the Max Bill. If you’re looking for simple and suave, at around $1,200, this is the full package.

9. anOrdain Model 1 Medium Teal

It’s not often that you come across a decent timepiece from Scotland. The haggis-eating, whiskey-drinking Scots are little-known for their watchmaking skills. Nonetheless, the anOrdain Model 1 Medium Teal watch hails from Glasgow, where the show-stealing vitreous enamel dial and exquisitely heat-treated hands are meticulously crafted by skilled enamelers, each of whom dedicates a minimum of 12 hours to shape the blank into a captivating facade.

It’s not often that a colored dial makes such a positive impression on a viewer, particularly in the $2000 range; a considerable amount of financial risk is involved in dedicating the manpower and resources required to perfect something that has no bearing on how well the watch works.

However, held within its 38mm polished steel case, the Eurasian teal face is magnificent. Instilled within the watch’s design is an easter egg – the numerals borrow typographic influence from cartographic maps of the highlands as a tip-of-the-hat to anOrdain’s Scottish heritage. For those concerned about precision, fret not. 

Beneath the sapphire glass, enhanced with 6 layers of anti-reflective coating, lies a heart of your choice – Sellita’s SW210 or a La Joux-Perret’s G100 movement, each offering exceptional timing and reliability. This feels like far more watch than its price suggests. Indeed, it’s not only a timer but an ode to Scotland and the unique craftsmen who live there.

The watch comes with a retail price of around $2,300.

10. NOMOS Orion 38 White (ref. 386)

NOMOS has always struck me as a singular watchmaker because it’s somehow the most talked about, and the least talked about manufacturer at the same time. Their Orion 38 White watch should be in every collection and, failing that, on every watch wishlist out there.

It’s a brilliant representation of the Bauhaus design ethos, with a white dial, silver indices, and uncomplicated hands. What’s more, despite their inclusion of a sub-dial for the second hand, this watch remains simple to the extreme.

The hand-wound calibre Alpha controls everything, with its mesmerizing 2.3mm-thick movement visible through the sapphire crystal glass back, while the stainless steel case, with its graceful lugs and flowing lines, enhances the watch’s slender profile, leaving a lasting impression.

The devil is in the details here – something about the curves of the lugs, coupled with the watch’s 8.9mm thickness, causes the Orion 38 to almost merge into the wrist instead of sitting on it. The designers among us will know better what’s going on here.

To my untrained eye, it’s a simple matter of perfect proportions bolstered by subtle angularity that makes this timepiece stand out in a crowd. You can get the Orion 38 for a retail price of $2,560.

11. Oris Artelier Art Blakey Limited Edition (ref. 01 733 7762 4081-Set)

For the jazz aficionados among us, the rhythmic harmony and 1000-piece-only exclusivity of the Oris Artelier Art Blakey Limited Edition will make the decision to purchase an easy one. This piece is a little bit more playful – more boisterous – than perhaps any other on this list, and for good reason.

Named after the inimitable hard-bop drum figurehead, Oris’s Art Blakey model at once delivers artistic flair and restrained design. It’s a testament to the intricate, read-between-the-lines playing style of its namesake, embodying a type of detailed elegance if you will, that few other watches can claim.

Within a stainless steel case measuring 38mm lies the Oris 733 automatic movement, which underpins a silver dial and black hands filled with a bright blue lume. The dial is defined by somewhat unusual markers that run along a black ring that lies inside the small indices to create a pattern resembling a drum head. 

Although this is a nice idea, it does make reading the time a bit tricky as these markers don’t align with any specific time indices. If you can get past that detail, however, there’s so much to love about the Art Blakey limited edition, least of all its patterned caseback and wooden case.

The watch comes with a retail price of $2,300.

12. Longines Classic Heritage Sector Dial (ref. L2.828.4.73.0)

The Heritage Sector Dial is about two things, really –  acknowledging historic designs and providing technical precision at a competitive price point. It pays homage to Longines’ legacy of innovation and craftsmanship.

To the former point, the dial speaks most loudly. It’s not as minimal as most Bauhaus designs are (and should be), but it’s far from cluttered. There are black indices and numerals, a seconds sub-dial, and fine crosshairs that bring it all together at the center of the watch. 

Thanks to metallic blue hands and a thick silver band that encircles the edge of the dial, there’s a definite sense of traditionalism present on the L2.828.4.73.0. Hidden from view is the automatic Caliber L893 movement, which beats at 25,200 beats per hour and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

Although this Longines may seem simple, its dependability is unquestionable. The only qualm you might have is that it’s not a definitively Bauhaus watch. It’s a Bauhaus designed by someone who loves art deco. Art Deco disguised as Bauhaus, let’s say. Whatever it is, it’s lovely. And you can get it for around $2,000.

13. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

First launched in 1949, Omega’s Tresor line has a reputation for being the brand’s more pared-back range. The De Ville Trésor is a watch that embodies this ideal in a cosmopolitan manner, with 18k white gold indexes and a painstakingly polished silver case that speaks to the modestly elegant among us.

This model boasts a 40mm stainless steel case, beautifully complemented by a black leather strap. The domed opaline silvery dial showcases the white gold hands and indexes, along with a date window positioned at 6 o’clock. 

There’s a sharpness to this watch, despite its simplicity. Maybe it’s because of how thin the indices and hands are. The skeptic in me believes that Omega did this to skimp on costs, but the romantic knows that, complemented by the fine-type lettering above the date window, this spindled aesthetic adds an edge to the De Ville, which cuts through its plainness.

The remarkable OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8910, which meets the highest standards of precision, chronometric performance, and magnetic resistance in the industry, drives this watch flawlessly. In every way, it’s an impressive timepiece.

The watch comes with a retail price of $6,700.

14. Glashütte Original Sixties Blue (ref. 1-39-52-06-02-04)

The more detail-oriented among you will notice a subtle similarity between the Glashütte Original Sixties Blue and the Timex Marlin mentioned earlier – the two share a very similar retro numeral typeface. I would say that the Original Sixties Blue watch has accomplished this with more class (being much more expensive), but the effect is the same – old meets new, and neither compromises.

The elements that prevail on this Glashütte piece do so with aplomb – an ultra-slim stainless steel case, sunray-finished blue dial, and slightly curved rhodium-plated hands make for a very refined watch. If you know what to look for, these characteristics will transport you to a bygone era, a feat alone worth the $7500 you’ll pay to experience it.

On the other hand, if you’re not inspired by or well-versed in the vintage culture, particularly that of the 1960s, this is simply a very fine watch. By no means should the name and influence behind this Glashütte preclude you from wearing it if you’re not into ‘watches from the past’. Its honest nature and gloriously subtle finish are enough to make anyone fall in love.

15. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 (ref. 126000-0002)

Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual 36 needs no introduction. It’s the Swiss megalith’s most simple watch and, for that reason, arguably its most beloved. It encapsulates everything that makes Rolex great – unsung details, unparalleled craftsmanship, and unbeatable accuracy (no offense, Grand Seiko). 

The sunray finish on the dial is, by now, a celebrity in its own right. Achieved through meticulous brushing techniques, it creates a captivating interplay of light for which this model has come to be known. With each movement of the wrist, a subtle glow emanates from the grooves, creating a primarily attractive effect.

Crafted from Oystersteel, the watch case exhibits exceptional resistance to corrosion and maintains its pristine appearance even in the harshest conditions. The iconic three-link Oyster bracelet merges with the case in a completely unassuming manner, as though the watch wasn’t made by trial and error but was perfectly formed like this.

It epitomizes Bauhaus ideals in a way that I don’t think the designers ever even intended. The happiest of accidents, one might say. Sure, the waiting list is long but patience, in this case, will be duly rewarded. The watch has a retail price of approximately $8,000, but you can expect to pay up to $20,000 on the secondary market, depending on the availability and dial color you want.

16. H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds (ref. 3200-1200)

There’s an interplay between hands and dial, which makes the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds a curiously bold timepiece. Is it genre-defining? I think not. It’s a watch that grants its wearer a sense of individuality in a world populated by standard pieces. Yes, it’s got a steel case, and yes, it’s dateless and rather conventional in shape. 

Counteracting these commonalities, though, are the midnight blue fumé dial and the skeleton-feuille hands, which are decidedly uncommon. What’s more, there’s a rubber strap on the 3200-1200, an inclusion that made me go “What?” the first time I recognized it, as the sporty flavor of the strap strongly contrasts the dinner-party nature of the watch itself. This one is full of surprises.

Below it all is the self-winding HMC 200 calibre movement, with an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system and interchangeable Moser escapement that contribute to its exceptional performance. Accuracy is a given with the original Straumann Hairspring and hacking seconds feature.

Ultimately, this timepiece is a ticking contradiction. It’s sporty yet posh. It’s simple yet intriguing. I don’t know how it all works, but somehow, it does. You can find this beautiful timepiece for around $13,000.

17. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin has a reputation for making unassuming watches that are nonetheless as high-end as can be. The Patrimony upholds this reputation, being a masterful example of ‘simple things done exceptionally well’.

Crafted from 18K white gold, its timeless design and relentless calibre 1400 movement afford it every luxury while enabling it to fly under the radar, just as a true Bauhaus piece should. One would never guess, unless they were in the know, that this watch is worth $20,000.

Inspired by the classic watches of the 1950s, the hour markers and hands gracefully follow the curvature of the dial, showcasing meticulous attention to detail and creating an effect that seems to bend space, making illegibility a thing of no concern.

My favorite thing about the Partimony, aside from how it makes me feel deep inside, is its thickness, which is a paltry 6.8mm.

On the wrist, it’s almost as though the watch isn’t there at all. If you’re into gold for gold’s sake, this might not be the big boy that you’ll buy, but if, like many, you prefer the subtle approach of white gold, in its unassuming majesty, then the Patrimony is likely one of your grail watches.

18. Grand Seiko SBGW295

Behold the Grand Seiko SBGW295, a timepiece that pays homage to the first-ever Grand Seiko watch while showcasing the finest traditional Japanese craftsmanship. This manual-wound marvel is probably more of a collector’s piece than a first buy.

The dial’s black ‘urushi’ lacquer, derived from rare domestic Japanese lacquer, is a work of art in and of itself, embellished with pure gold indices and text which brings the depths of the dark face to life.

Its dual-curved sapphire glass adds depth and allure to a bare facade, while the 9S64 movement beneath it guarantees +5 to -3 seconds a day accuracy. The watch rests on a ‘yoroiori’ strap, a woven blend of calf leather and fabric using a traditional Japanese technique once employed in samurai armor. 

To me, the only ostensible thing that piques intrigue is the watch’s combination of gold details against its brilliant titanium case.

That’s the joy of the SBGW295 – Grand Seiko knows when to push a timepiece to its visual and technical limits but, more importantly, when to yield to the design’s natural conclusion. The Bauhaus founders would appreciate that, I’m sure. You can purchase the Grand Seiko SBGW295 for $13,800 here.

19. Breguet Classique (ref. 5140BB/12/9W6)

Another white gold contender for the luxury Bauhaus crown, Breguet’s Classique is fancier than other watches here but still restrained enough to make the list. This self-winding watch has an offset subdial for seconds and some remarkable advancements in its movement – a balance spring and lever made from silicon ensure precision timekeeping to a T.

What stands out about the Classique is its silvered dial, carefully hand-engraved and utterly flawless in its execution. Edge-hugging Roman numerals and a relative absence of text bolster the textured face’s purity and time-telling abilities.

Of course, Breguet’s signature hands are on full display, colored a striking blue to pop off the dial. Look closer at the sub-dial, and you’ll notice tiny Arabic numerals at the quarterly positions, a detail that says so much about the craftsmanship behind the Classique.

As far as Bauhaus sensibilities go, this feels like an indulgence, but honestly, it’s a watch at the top of its game, so who cares? This beautiful Breguet Classique can be yours for $21,000.

20. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5196G-001)

Patek’s Calatrava is arguably the definition of simplicity among luxury watches. The 18kt white gold case, with its round shape and slim profile, measures 37mm in diameter and 8mm in thickness, making it as easy on the wrist as it is on the eye.

Almost monotone, the white gold case wraps around a silver-grey dial and silver Dauphine hands and index markers. Seconds are denoted on a small, borderless sub-dial, the black line indices of which form a sort of ‘shining star’ pattern that I think is the centerpiece of this ticker.

Images of industrial pursuits come to mind when looking at the Calatrava, minus the grease and grinding accompanying such depictions. To that point, Patek Philippe’s Calibre 215 PS engine lies at the core of the watch, offering a power reserve of 44 hours and a smooth, unaffected movement that will likely outlive your grandchildren.

If you’ve ever wondered why even the starkest Pateks demand a high premium, the Calatrava might offer an answer – it takes a great deal of effort to render the complex down to its most distilled form, which Patek has accomplished here without vanity or falsehood. The Calatrava comes with an approximate price of $25,000.

21. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5196G-001)

Patek’s Calatrava is arguably the definition of simplicity among luxury watches. The 18kt white gold case, with its round shape and slim profile, measures 37mm in diameter and 8mm in thickness, making it as easy on the wrist as it is on the eye.

Almost monotone, the white gold case wraps around a silver-grey dial and silver Dauphine hands and index markers. Seconds are denoted on a small, borderless sub-dial, the black line indices of which form a sort of ‘shining star’ pattern that I think is the centerpiece of this ticker. Images of industrial pursuits come to mind when looking at the Calatrava, minus the grease and grinding accompanying such depictions.

To that point, Patek Philippe’s Calibre 215 PS engine lies at the core of the watch, offering a power reserve of 44 hours and a smooth, unaffected movement that will likely outlive your grandchildren.

If you’ve ever wondered why even the starkest Pateks demand a high premium, the Calatrava might offer an answer – it takes a great deal of effort to render the complex down to its most distilled form, which Patek has accomplished here without vanity or falsehood.

The Calatrava comes with an approximate price of $25,000.

Keep It Simple

The world of Bauhaus-inspired watches is a true testament to the enduring influence of minimalist design and functional aesthetics. Affordable options offer a taste of timeless elegance without breaking the bank, while more luxurious timepieces embody the highest levels of understated mastery.

These timepieces captivate with their clean dials, harmonious proportions, and meticulous attention to detail. They pay homage to the Bauhaus movement’s philosophy of form following function, resulting in watches that not only tell time but also make a stylish statement on the wrist.