Category: Grand Seiko

There are many watch brands that craft timepieces worthy of a collector’s attention. One that I feel is somewhat underrated is Grand Seiko. Originally part of Seiko, Grand Seiko was formed in 1960 with the intention of competing with the best that Switzerland had to offer.

That first watch was more than up to the task, earning the prestigious superior chronometer grade of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres.

As time went on, the ambitious Japanese brand innovated and created timepieces that more than held their own with the world’s best. The Spring Drive movement was one of the most ingenious inventions to come from Grand Seiko’s brilliant watchmakers.

In 2017, it split off from parent company Seiko to become an independent brand. At this point, Grand Seiko became available in the U.S. In 2025, the catalog is huge, and Grand Seiko continues to grow in popularity, rivaling all competition. 

If you are looking for a Grand Seiko to add to your collection (and why wouldn’t you be?), this handy list of 15 of the best models out there may prove helpful.

It was a difficult task to choose 15 as all of Grand Seiko’s watches are pretty fabulous, but I have managed. Full disclosure: My personal tastes and opinions impacted the list, but hey, I wouldn’t steer you wrong. 

Choosing the Right Grand Seiko for You

The sheer number of beautiful models in the Grand Seiko catalog can make choosing one seem to be an overwhelming task. If we break it down into a step-by-step method, things become a bit easier. 

Type

The first step is to decide what type of watch you are looking for. Grand Seiko makes some incredible dress watches, divers, GMTs, and chronographs. Are you planning to wear your new watch  when in your best clothes? This would indicate a nice dress model.

If you are looking for an everyday wearer with both casual and dressier outfits, a tool watch would be suitable. A diver is an excellent choice, especially if you plan to swim or maybe dive while wearing it.

Chronographs are fun timepieces with a built-in stopwatch. This gives off a racing vibe with a big cool factor.

GMTs can track multiple time zones and are great for travelers and people whose work includes contact with others in different parts of the nation and the world. Once you’ve decided on type, we move on to size.

Size

The size of the watch you choose is partially connected to the type. Dress watches tend to have smaller, thinner cases, with tool watches being larger.

Watch sizes are not the same as clothing sizes in terms of a specific fit. Your personal preference plays a role but there are some guidelines to help you choose a timepiece that will look good on your wrist.

Your wrist size obviously must be taken into account. I have an average-sized wrist for men at 7.25 inches, and I prefer cases in the 40-42 mm range.

This size looks good, but I also have slightly smaller and larger watches. The shape of your wrist makes a difference as well. If the top side is flatter, you can get away with a bigger case.

What you want to avoid is having the lugs overhang the sides of your wrist. This is not a great look and can make you look like a child dressing up in mommy or daddy’s watch.

If you have a smaller wrist, you may want to look for something in the 36-38 mm range. For those with big beefy wrists, you will likely be seeking something larger than 42 mm.

Your preference is very important. If you can get to a Grand Seiko AD such as Exquisite Timepieces, you can try on several watches to find the size that suits your wrist size and taste best.

Bracelet/Strap

You’ve got to have a way to hold your watch on your wrist. The two basic options are a bracelet or a strap. Either can do the job nicely as well as add to the aesthetic of the watch.

Bracelets are made of metal, generally stainless steel, gold, or titanium, while straps are leather, crocodile, rubber, or silicone. Each has its look and purpose.

For a dress watch, either a bracelet or a strap will work, although a quality strap is considered dressier. A nice bracelet in a precious metal is a great option for your finest outfits.

Tool watches are usually on bracelets made of stainless steel, titanium, or on a strap. If you choose a diver, you’re not going to do leather. Getting it wet will ruin it. Dive watches are on stainless or titanium bracelets, or rubber or silicone straps. 

Consider how you plan to wear your watch as well as what pleases your aesthetic when making this choice.

Complications

Anything on a watch that does something other than tell the time is a complication. The most common of these is the date. It’s a very handy thing to have on your watch.

Think of how many times you wonder what the date is and pull out your phone. Having it on your watch makes it much easier. Some watches also display the day of the week, which can also be helpful.

GMT watches have an extra hand and rotating bezel for tracking extra time zones, and divers have a unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives or anything else you may want to track. Chronographs have subdials for the minutes and seconds of the stopwatch complication and often a 24-hour dial. 

Other complications include moon phases, tourbillons, and reserve indicators. Each serves a purpose as well as adding character to your watch. This is all down to personal preference, and again, after deciding what you need, try some on and see what you like best.

Color/Texture

Last but not least, we have the color of the dial, and especially with Grand Seiko, the texture. Dress watches usually are best in conservative neutral colors, such as black, white, ivory, or dark blue. There are also fun colors like green, red, pink, or burgundy.

Tool watches can work with pretty much any color. Decide how you want to wear your watch, along with the typical color palette of your clothing. I am a big fan of blue watches. They go with everything I usually wear. If you are adding to your collection, Grand Seiko has some gorgeous greens and pinks are well.

Now to texture. A flat dial in a good color can look nice, but a textured dial really pops. Nobody, and I mean nobody, does dial textures like Grand Seiko. The Japanese revere nature, and this is reflected in the work of this luxury brand.

There are dials that have the texture of gentle waves lapping on a lake, ice crystals on frozen water, and the delicate leaves of cherry blossoms at various times of the year.

Do your due diligence and take a good look at the incredible textures Grand Seiko offers. They are truly works of art, and this may well be your toughest decision. Now, let’s look at some specific modes. 

Grand Seiko SLGA021 Lake Suwa

This is an absolutely stunning timepiece and one of my favorite Grand Seiko models. The name refers to Lake Suwa, a pretty body of water not far from the brand’s HQ.

Typical of Grand Seiko, the dial jumps out. It’s a gorgeous deep blue with a texture that accurately depicts the waves and ripples that flow across the namesake lake. 

The case is 40 mm in diameter, a nice size for an average or larger wrist, and 11.8 mm thick, making it a good choice to wear with dress shirts or suits. The case and bracelet are titanium, which is strong and very light, adding to the comfort.

The dial and exhibition caseback are covered by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the silver hands and indices make the time easy to read.

The Spring Drive Caliber 9RA2 movement is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per month and has a very generous 120-hour power reserve. With a 100-meter water resistance, you won’t have to worry about getting caught in the rain.

Not recommended for snorkeling or diving. This beauty retails for $10,500. Also available is SLGA019, with a medium blue dial selling for $9,300.

Grand Seiko SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba

The Japanese reverence for nature is reflected in the celebrations of the sakura, or cherry blossom trees. Festivals are dedicated to the blooming of the trees each spring. Grand Seiko has its own tributes to the cherry blossoms in watch dials.

The Sakura-Wakaba has a stunning light green dial that looks like the fresh green sakura leaves under a coating of snow. The delicate texture looks like watercolors on fine linen. It’s a nice color to have in your collection and makes a beautiful backdrop for the silver baton indices and hands. 

The 38 mm high-intensity titanium case is a nice size for dress or casual outfits, and it has a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance, so you don’t have to sweat getting caught in the rain.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects your work of art, and the Zaratsu polishing on the case and bracelet really make it pop. 

The Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85 movement is accurate to +5 – -3 seconds per day and has a 55-hour power reserve. At $7,700 retail, it costs significantly less than many watches that are not nearly as beautiful. 

Grand Seiko SBGH341 Sakura-Kakushi

If you like the Sakura-Wakaba but want a dial a bit different colorwise, check out its sibling, the Sakura-Wakaba. The specs are identical, but the dial color and texture reflect the sakura leaves later in spring when they have bloomed a soft pink.

Pink is not for everyone, and it seems that every microbrand out there has a hot pink dial. However, Grand Seiko has created a subtle shade of pink with the same watercolor-on-linen texture of the Wakaba.

This color is a nice contrast to outfits of navy or medium blue, or black, and will work with bolder colors like reds or yellows. The retail price is the same at $7,700.

For a bit less than the cost of a single hi-end brand, you could own both of these Sakura gems. If you have to choose one, this model has many a happy owner.

Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari”

Nearby Lake Suwa is the inspiration for several Grand Seiko dials. When the lake freezes each winter, there is usually a ridge of ice across its width. The Japanese call the ridge the “omiwatari,” and it is believed to be caused by ice gods trekking across the surface.

The dial of the SBGY007 is a stunning tribute to the tradition. It’s a very soft blue, but has the ridgelike texture and subtle sparkle of the ridges on the lake. It makes for an easy-to-read, easy experience sitting behind the brushed and polished silver baton indices and hands.

A dressy watch, it has a stainless steel 38.5 mm case with Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces. A dual curved, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating covers the dial and exhibition caseback. 30 meters of water resistance is perfectly adequate for a dress watch.

The beautiful black crocodile leather strap is elegantly paired with the case. This timepiece is powered by Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Caliber 9R31 movement.

The dual-barrel structure gives it a very generous power reserve of 72 hours, and thanks to the caseback, you can see this technological marvel whenever you want. At $8,400 retail, the price is far lower than many other luxury brands, and your jealous friends may think you broke the bank on this one.

Grand Seiko SBGJ249 GMT Four Seasons “Summer Shōsho” 

This is a GMT, one of my particular favorites. Engineered with Grand Seiko’s typical innovation and high standards, the dial is nothing short of spectacular. In Japan, each of the four seasons has six distinct phases, or “sekki”.

The Four Seasons Summer Shosho celebrates the end of the rainy season and the start of mid-summer with its blue-textured dial that resembles the windblown ripples on the water. Like all Grand Seiko dials, it’s a work of art.

The Zaratsu polished and brushed indices and hands look great against this backdrop, and the deep blue GMT hand blends in beautifully while being easy to read. A 24-hour sits around the inner surface of the dial, and there is a date complication at 3 o’clock.

The 39 mm stainless steel case will suit a wide range of wrists and has a lion emblem on the caseback. The 30-meter water resistance is enough to protect it from splashes, but it is not meant for swimming. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects this stunning dial.

The bracelet is also stainless steel with brushed and polished surfaces that complement the case. The Caliber 98S6 GMT movement powers this gorgeous timepiece.

It has a nice power reserve of 55 hours and is accurate to +5 – -3 seconds per day. If you’re looking for a GMT, this is the one I would buy, especially given its $7,300 price tag. 

Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Shirakaba

For a more subtle, yet still beautiful timepiece, I love the SLGH005. In another tribute to nature, the dial of this watch has the colors and textures of the bark of a white birch tree.

Sitting in a brushed and Zaratsu-polished stainless steel case with a silver handset and baton indices, also brushed and polished, the look is tied together for one of neutral elegance that you can wear with any outfit.

The blue needle second hand adds just the right pop of color. The 40mm size suits an average wrist nicely, and with a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance, you won’t have to worry about getting caught in the rain. 

This beauty is powered by the Caliber 9SA5 hi-beat automatic movement. It’s accurate to +5/-3 seconds per day and has a very generous power reserve of 5 days. It includes a date complication at 3 o’clock, and thanks to the exhibition case back, you can see the movement looks as good as it functions. 

The three-link stainless steel bracelet features brushed and polished surfaces and is a nice match to the case. The three-fold clasp holds it securely to your wrist. At a retail price of $9,300, the White Birch Shirakaba gives you plenty of value for your money. 

Grand Seiko SBGC275 Sport Hotaka Lion’s Mane

If you’re looking for something unusual and fun, the SBGC275 Sport Hotaka Lion’s Mane may fit the bill. A limited edition of just 700 pieces, this Grand Seiko model is a collector’s dream. The red, beautifully textured dial represents the sun rising over Mount Hotaka.

The silver handset and baton indices are tapered at the ends to simulate a lion’s claws. The chronograph subdials for seconds, minutes, hours, and power reserve indicator have a sunburst finish, making for a more dynamic look.

A black 24-hour GMT bezel with silver numbers complements the dial nicely. Grand Seiko developed a technique called Optical Multilayer Coating that allows the dial to change shades of red in different light. 

The case is brushed and polished high-intensity titanium and has a large 44.5 mm diameter. This is a watch that truly stands out on the wrist. The crown is a screw down and the water resistance is 200 meters, so you can take it for a swim.

A sapphire crystal covers the dial and the exhibition case back. The hands and indices have a green Lumibrite, and the GMT hand and bezel number are lumed in blue for easy reading in low-light situations. 

The Spring Drive Caliber 9R96 movement is an incredible piece of Grand Seiko engineering. With both chronograph and GMT functions, this is an incredibly useful timepiece. It is accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day and has a 72-hour power reserve.

Looking at the movement through the exhibition case back, one can view the Grand Seiko lion logo in stunning 18K gold.

The bracelet is high-intensity titanium to match the case and is a brushed and polished three-link design. The three-fold clasp with a secure lock and push-button extender allows micro adjustments and keeps the watch secure on your wrist.

You would expect a timepiece this special to carry a hefty price tag. However, at $13,400 retail, it is quite a bargain.

Grand Seiko SBGA231 Spring Drive Diver Black Dial

I’m a big fan of dive watches, and Grand Seiko makes some good ones. The SBGA231 is an excellent diver with some bold and unique features. The dial is a beautiful flat black with dark grey hour and minute hands, and a black needle second hand.

Baton indices sit at 6 and 9 o’clock, a large inverted triangle at 12, and dots at the other positions. The hands and markers are luminous for easy viewing at night or underwater. There is a power reserve indicator and a date complication at 3 o’clock.

The 44.2 mm case is large and stands out. It is, however, lightweight, thanks to the high-intensity titanium. The unidirectional rotating bezel is also titanium and hard-coated in black.

The sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. The screw-down crown and strong case give it 200 meters of water resistance, so it can accompany you on your aquatic adventures.

The Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 movement is accurate to +/- 1 second per day and has a 72-hour power reserve. The three-link bracelet is also high-intensity titanium to match the case, and the clasp is made from the same material. The retail price of $7,100 makes it a steal for a dive watch of this quality. 

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203

Tool watches are as useful as they are aesthetically pleasing. Another Grand Seiko Chronograph GMT is the SBCG203. The black dial features easy-to-read markings and subdials that make it a timepiece worth owning. 

The silver delta hands and baton indices nicely contrast the dial, and the red arrow GMT hand stands out and adds a bit of color. The date complication at 3 o’clock has a white numeral on a black background that blends in with the color scheme.

The chronograph second, minute, and hour subdials are joined by a power reserve indicator. A minute track sits just inside the bezel with 24-hour markings just beneath it. 

The stainless steel case is 43.5 mm, which is on the large size, but typical of a multifunction watch. The sapphire crystal is dual-curved and high definition with an anti-reflective coating for easy reading.

The crown and chronograph buttons are screw down and give the case a 100 meter water resistance. A sapphire crystal also covers the exhibition case back.

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Caliber 9R86 movement powers this watch with an accuracy of +/- 1 second per day and a 72-hour power reserve.

The three-link stainless steel bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a push-button release and pairs well with the case. With a retail price of just $8,200, you get features that would cost north of $10,000 for many other brands. 

Grand Seiko SBGY035 Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition

If you’re looking for an elegant dress watch with a bit of boldness, the SBGY035 may be right up your alley. A limited edition, this beautiful timepiece commemorates the release of the Caliber 9R, Grand Seiko’s first Spring Drive movement in 2004.

The dial is another tribute to sunrise over Hotaka Mountain. It’s deep red on the edge, gradually getting lighter toward the center. It is bolder than a standard color but still subtle enough to wear with dress clothes.

The indices and hands are silver and stand out nicely against the dial, and the dark orange second hand adds just a bit more color. 

The case is stainless steel and at 38.5 mm with a thickness of just 10.2 mm, it’s a perfect dress watch size. It has a sapphire crystal over the dial and exhibition case back. Water resistance is a typical dress watch, 30 meters, but you’re not going to be doing any swimming in it.

The Spring Drive Caliber 9R31 movement has a 72-hour power reserve and is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month.

The brown leather faux crocodile strap has a three-fold clasp with a push-button release and finishes off the very elegant design. You might expect a dress watch of this quality to be costly, but the $8,500 price tag is quite reasonable. 

Grand Seiko SBGM253 GMT Limited Edition

A classy GMT that is a Grand Seiko tribute to nature is a welcome addition to any collection. The Limited Edition SBGM253 is just what the doctor ordered. The incredible light blue sunray dial is a tribute to the view of the sky from the top of Mount Iwate.

The two-tone light and dark silver baton indices and delta hands are the perfect complement to the sky blue dial, and the darker blue GMT hand fits right in. 24-hour markings in the same darker blue sit just inside the indices, making the GMT hand easy to read and keeping the aesthetic subtle. 

The 39.5 mm case is stainless steel and just 13.7 mm thick, making it a great dress watch. The water resistance is 30 meters, which is suitable for this type of timepiece. It has an exhibition case back which is covered by a sapphire crystal, as is the dial. 

The automatic Caliber 9S66 movement has a date complication at 3 o’clock, a 72-hour power reserve, and an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The three-link bracelet is stainless steel to match the case and has a three-fold clasp. The $5,600 retail price is especially appealing. 

Grand Seiko SBGW301

A classy, no-frills dress watch that will go with any outfit is a good thing to have in your collection. It’s also nice if you can get it for less than $5,000. The SBGW301 is that watch.

The dial is a pretty ivory color. Neutral, but with more warmth than white. Silver baton indices and hands blend in nicely and are easy to read. 

The stainless steel case is 37.3 mm and 11.7 mm thick. It will easily fit under a dress shirt cuff and sit unobtrusively on your wrist. A sapphire crystal sits over the dial and the exhibition case back. The water resistance is standard for a dress watch at 30 meters.

The Caliber 9S64 movement is manual, but with a 72-hour power reserve, you will only have to wind it every 3 days. It’s accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day and does its job quite well.

The black crocodile leather strap is simple and elegant, and with its pin buckle, holds your watch securely on your wrist while adding to its good looks. The retail price is just $4,900. You almost have to buy one. 

Grand Seiko SBGW285

Another simple, dress watch with a price tag under $5,000, but with a bit more color, is the Grand Seiko SBGW285. It has the same basic dial with silver baton indices and hands as the 301, but the dial is a dark, emerald green with a texture that simulates leaves at the end of summer.

The stainless steel case is 37.3 mm in diameter and 11.7 mm thick; ideal dress watch proportions. A box-shaped anti-reflective sapphire crystal covers the dial and exhibition case back. This timepiece is merely splash resistant to give you protection in the rain, but no more than that.

The manual Calibe 9S64 movement is accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day, and with a 72-hour power reserve, you only have to wind it a couple of times per week.

The crocodile leather strap with a pin buckle is the same deep green as the dial and brings the whole package together. At just $4,900 retail, this is a steal.

Grand Seiko SLGA023 Ushio

As I mentioned earlier, I love dive watches, and the SLGA023 Ushio is one of the nicest I’ve ever seen. Dive watch dials that evoke the texture of water are especially pleasing. I love my blue Omega Seamaster with the engraved wave pattern, but it does not measure up to the Ushio.

The deep blue dial has an incredible texture that looks amazingly like ripples and waves on the surface of the ocean. A silver arrow minute hand and sword second hand are covered with Lumbrite for easy viewing in suboptimal conditions.

Baton indices at 6 and 9 o’clock with a double baton at 12, and dots at the other positions are also lumed. The second hand has a large lumed dot at the end to make it stand out and a date complication at 3 o’clock with a power reserve indicator on the other side, completing the picture.

The lightweight but strong high-intensity titanium case is 43.8 mm in diameter. This is a good size for a diver. It has a screw down crown and a solid water resistance of 200 meters in case you do want to swim in it, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. 

The Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5 movement is accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day and has a very large power reserve of 120 hours. The three-link bracelet is made from the same high-intensity titanium as the case, for a light but rugged timepiece.

The three-fold clasp has a secure, locking push-button release, and the slide adjuster lets you get a perfect fit. The $12,000 retail price is significantly lower than high-end dive watches of other leading brands. 

Grand Seiko SLGH007

If you have a large budget for your next purchase and want a classy, unique, and collectible timepiece, check out the SLGH007. This incredible watch is a tribute to Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori. It’s a limited edition release with one of Grand Seiko’s most beautiful dials.

It’s basic black with a texture that resembles the rings inside the trunk of a cedar tree. Double baton silver indices, with a triple at the top, and silver delta hands pop against the dark background. The 3 o’clock date complication is a white numeral on a black background and blends in. 

The case is a stunning platinum in a nice 40 mm diameter. The 11.7 mm thickness makes it a good dress watch, and a sapphire crystal covers the dial and exhibition case back. The automatic Hi Beat Caliber 9SA5 movement is accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day and has a generous 80-hour power reserve.

The black crocodile leather strap with a three-fold clasp and push-button release adds to the reserved elegance. The $59,000 retail price is high, but you get so much value for the money. If you are going to splurge, consider the SLGH007.

Conclusion

There are many luxury watch brands from which to choose. They are all worthy contenders in their own way, but Grand Seiko takes a back seat to none of them. Their timepieces are innovative, accurate, reliable, durable, and absolutely beautiful. Most sell for less than $10,000.

If you are looking for a Grand Seiko, the number of watches in their catalog can be overwhelming. Take a look at these 15 as a starting point. Grand Seiko has a watch for every horological connoisseur, and your dream timepiece may just be on this list. 

Grand Seiko. When you read that name, quite a few thoughts come to mind, no doubt. Some of you may be thinking, “Aren’t those just budget Rolex’s?” or, “Oh yeah, I picked up a Grand Seiko because I don’t have a Rolex store near me.” 

Needless to say, Grand Seiko is a brand that flies under the radar of a casual watch fan whose only exposure to the watch world has been through the “Rolex lens,” as I like to call it.

I’ve read countless articles of people going to buy a watch, seeing a “Seiko” instead of a Rolex, and either abandoning their purchase altogether or settling for a watch of “lesser quality.” 

Grand Seiko is a brand that has been pumping out gorgeous, breathtaking pieces since 1960 and has only improved with every year they have been producing.

Their rich Japanese history has been the primary influence they translate into their art, with pieces often being embodiments of Japanese seasons or cultural ideas. In this brief historical analysis, we will discover whether or not Grand Seiko is worth it and, if they are, why they are so esteemed. 

Grand Seiko Watches in the Past

Grand Seiko was founded in 1960 with the single goal of excelling in the watch market and providing unique pieces that demonstrate precision, durability, and undeniable beauty.

The first Grand Seiko was a major advancement. With the all-new caliber 3180 at the center of the piece, the watch was able to hold an accuracy of +12 to -3 seconds a day and offered a power reserve of 45 hours. 

In 1964, the Grand Seiko Self-Dater was introduced. This watch was crafted with the aim of being as practical as possible. Equipped with a calendar function and improved water resistance of up to 50 meters, Grand Seiko combined practicality and style, which they would go on to become masters of. 

Throughout the ’60s, as the Grand Seiko collection grew, many new calibers were introduced. In 1967, Grand Seiko released the 62GS, the first automatic Grand Seiko, followed in 1968 by the automatic 10 beat 61GS and the manual 10 beat 4SGS.

 The age demanded new possibilities, and the evolution of technology provided them, making watch accuracy an obsession among enthusiasts. This allowed Grand Seiko to set the stage and become one of the most influential brands when it came to designing new movements. In 1968, they won the prize as the best mechanical watches in the Geneva Observatory competition, communicating to the world that Grand Seiko was not a brand to be taken lightly. 

In 1988, the first Grand Seiko quartz watch, the 95GS, was released, exceeding the performance of regular quartz watches. Manufacturing every component in-house, using quartz crystals grown in its own facilities, the Grand Seiko team was able to select only the best oscillators that were tested and proved to be the most superior performing engines, ensuring that they could produce movements with the highest possible accuracy. 

Then, in 1993, they produced the “idea” quartz watch. The Caliber 9F83 was completed, incorporating four key innovations: the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism, the Twin Pulse Control System, the Instant Date Change Mechanism, and the protective shield construction. Each of these ingredients embodied Grand Seiko’s primary goal, which was to create a piece that captured the essential qualities of a wristwatch.

Grand Seiko Watches Today

In 2020, Grand Seiko embarked on a new journey, thrusting itself into an all-new era. Kicking off this expedition, two new movements were released.

The Caliber 9SA5 is a new 10-beat movement delivering high precision and high power reserve, with three key innovations serving as the foundation. The Grand Seiko free-sprung balance, a Dual Impulse Escapement, and an over-coil all work in unison to give us that coherent precision Grand Seiko had familiarized us with. 

Then, the second movement was the Caliber 9RA5, which took the Spring Drive into a new age, enhancing its accuracy and extending the power reserve.

Both of these movements are slimmer, fitting more comfortably inside the watches, and both have been refined to perfection, dubbing Grand Seiko as one of the most innovative movement designers on the market.

In 2023, Grand Seiko released an automatic-winding chronograph operating at a three-day power reserve with timekeeping precision at 10 beats per second.

They named it the Tentagraph, making it the brand’s first form of chronograph movement. The SLGC001 is powered by the Tentagraph movement, making it Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph model. 

Then, in 2024, Grand Seiko’s new Caliber 9SA4 was released, making it the first manually wound, 10-beat mechanical movement that the company has produced in over 50 years.

It powers the new line of dress watches in the Evolution 9 style, which are engineered for the most satisfying sound while winding, ensuring that the watch moves with extraordinary efficiency, all while maintaining a power reserve of 80 hours. 

What Makes Grand Seiko Watches Stand Out?

Looking back at its history, we can see that Grand Seiko is a brand that prides itself on designing its pieces with the most precision possible. They have maintained their flawless reputation over the years by delivering time and time again on promises they have made, not only impressing their audience but exceeding their expectations. 

Gorgeous pieces are one thing. Any run-of-the-mill watch company can produce a semi-decent-looking piece. But where Grand Seiko stands out is what’s on the inside of their watches. 

Ever since the company was born in 1960, they have always been pushing the limits on what is truly possible with the technology they are given, but the most impressive part is once they have reached their limit with what they have, they will go above and beyond to create a new limit, new technology, and a new line to be surpassed.

The greatest praise I can give Grand Seiko is that they are original. Often unapologetic in the way they design watches, Grand Seiko delivers us truly unique pieces that are impossible to find elsewhere. 

Let’s not gloss over the aesthetic importance, either. While the brand’s highlight is the original movements, their casing and dial designs are also virtually flawless. Often incorporating cultural themes, the Japanese designers at Grand Seiko engulf their pieces in rich history and stoic symbolism that embody Japan’s very nature. 

For example, the GMT Twenty-Four Seasons collection gives us a unique perspective on how Japanese society views its seasons, with Grand Seiko giving us a beautiful piece to represent each stage of the year. 

While Grand Seiko might not be as recognized as a brand like Rolex, that doesn’t mean that their pieces are any less unique. Some are often of much higher quality than Rolex (though you didn’t hear that from me), and most importantly, Rolex is much more expensive. So there’s that.

Should you get a Grand Seiko Watch?

In short, absolutely. For these kinds of watches with this kind of quality, Grand Seiko is priced relatively well. But let’s assume the budget is not an issue. Grand Seiko designs each piece with impeccable character. 

Seriously, it’s hard to find something like this anywhere else. From an outside perspective, pieces from the Evolution 9 and the Elegance collections (in my opinion) are the most aesthetically pleasing, but pieces like the SBGJ237 and the SBGE277 from the sports collection catch my eye as well, while offering more utility and durability, being that they are made of stronger materials and are classified as sports watches. 

It’s safe to assume that any Grand Seiko piece you choose will have a flawless interior because, looking back on their innovative history, they have proven to pride themselves on movement and precision above all else. 

I can imagine any luxury watch enthusiast being a fan of Grand Seiko, as well as someone who is just getting into the watch game and simply wants an admirable piece. Of course, if you are new, start cheap and shop for what you know. 

Grand Seiko provides a very accessible entry point into the watch game and their collection. Browse their website and do adequate research to ensure you aren’t getting anything that will cause you to become overwhelmed. 

I think the sports collection is a good place to start because these kinds of pieces are specifically engineered to withstand any potential damage, and they also look exquisite.

The sports collection consists of more traditional pieces designed to be worn on the go, so you wouldn’t need to worry about where and where it would not be appropriate to have on. 

Grand Seiko comes highly recommended. There has yet to be a piece I have been disappointed with, and it only seems that with each passing year, their repertoire grows wider, and their quality improves. I trust a company that is in it for the love of the craft. 

Taking the extra time to ensure that what you are providing to the market is the best it can be will always earn you a resounding recommendation because you respect your buyers more than you respect the dollar.

That’s something that will gravitate consumers anywhere you go, but to an industry that revolves so much around precision and attention to detail, that is an unmistakable quality that is necessary for anyone you buy from. 

Conclusion

Grand Seiko is one of the only companies that I will recommend more and more as the years pass. Not because I know any future plans or have the inside scoop on any record-breaking ideas, but because I can look back at where they came from and tremendously respect where they are now. 

History alludes to the inevitable improvement of their brand because of the choices they make and the respect they have for the art of watchmaking.

I say this all the time, but I am excited about the direction that Grand Seiko is going and listen every day for the announcement of something new because I know that whatever they produce will undoubtedly be one of the best things the industry sees all year. 

So, those of you on the fence about pulling the trigger, I say do it. It’s not every day a brand like Grand Seiko comes along. I promise, if you know what you want, Grand Seiko can provide.

Part of what makes Grand Seiko such a timeless investment is the craftsmanship and historical quality that goes into it. As you might expect, those details can get pretty extensive, but they all matter when it comes to the visual symphony of the final product.

The watch brand has a core focus on ease of use without skipping on the beauty and precision of its mechanical components. Aside from their many collections, Grand Seiko has always had a knack for taking inspiration from nature for its designs.

You can definitely see this in the SBGE295, as the design of the dial is inspired by the peaks of the Hotaka Mountains in Japan. This watch’s natural green tone draws me in the most, and it’s clear that many others agree. In this review, I’ll show you all of the highlights from the SBGE295 and give you a great visual of how it would stand out in your collection.

A Glimpse at the History of SBGE295

Manufactured in two unique locations throughout Japan, each Grand Seiko watch is born in the Shizukuishi or Shinshu watch studios. This particular watch was made available in July of 2023, and it is one of the newer designs from Grand Seiko in recent years. 

The SBGE295 is an addition to Grand Seiko’s Sports Collection, which is known for its blend of style and sporty lifestyle. A personal favorite when it comes to more relaxed engagements.

Although it isn’t uncommon for Grand Seiko to reissue or take inspiration from older models, this particular design stands as a fresh perspective. You can find similar designs within their Sports Collection, but these are known to be rather new to the Grand Seiko lineage. There may not be an extremely long history behind this design, but it still stands as a new favorite in my own collection.

It’s a great example of how the watchmaker has come so far and the level of effort and detail they put into every creation. Even after decades on the global market, that historical quality is still found in the details of every timepiece, including the “Hotaka Peaks” SBGE295. This watch sits among a few others in its collection, but it’s the green contrast that really makes it special.

Case Specifications Unwravelled

At a glance, a 44mm case diameter sounds somewhat large to anyone, but Grand Seiko put some thought into that for a better feel. This was accomplished by engineering a curved case while still displaying the visual aesthetic of a 44mm diameter. 

Take it from someone with a noticeable skinny wrist; I feel this watch looks and fits just fine from every angle. A small detail like this can make a watch much more comfortable on the wrist for all-day wear.

Aside from the case diameter, the watch is 50.8mm lug-to-lug and has a thickness side profile of 14.7mm. Once again, the lug-to-lug can look on the larger side, but this is compensated by GS’s clever approach with a curved case. 

It works with a Spring Drive movement and boasts a stainless steel housing with durable sapphire crystal. These small design choices make the watch stylish, durable, as well as scratch resistant. 

While you might feel like the case dimensions would be bulky, my own experience has been pleasantly form-fitting. My relatively small wrist has made it challenging to blend with some watch styles, but Grand Seiko Engineering always finds a way to make it work. 

This particular watch case boasts the Zaratsu finish, popularized by the Grand Seiko name. Better yet, you’ll find a majority polished look, with some light brushing on the lugs. Down to the finer details of the case, the bezel is bi-directional, offers a soft click, and comes with a sapphire insert. 

White portions of the bezel glow in the dark due to the fine layer of Grand Seiko’s LumiBrite compound. It’s also made with a screw-down crown placed at 4 o’clock and locks in at a water resistance of 200m.

Even if you don’t see the case back very often, it comes with the famous engraving that makes it an official Grand Seiko. Also made from stainless steel, the case back shows the famous Grand Seiko lion engraved in the middle. 

Part of what sells me about this watch case is the fact it hits the perfect middle ground between sport and luxury style. Although case design can be a big selling point for many people, the dial offers plenty of hidden beauty and engineering.

Details of the Dial

The dial is a standout feature, to say the least, as it includes a vibrant, patterned green color. It represents the lush nature of the Hotaka Mountains, and the overall finish is unique to its own as well. On top of the fully LumiBrited bezel, the same approach is taken on the hands. This ensures perfect visibility in the dark without being too jarring to the eyes.

Amongst the deep greens in this dial are also very faint blue undertones in the right lighting. The deep color of the dial and the form-fitting nature of the watch make it perfect for on-the-go or more professional settings.

Grand Seiko created this specific dial pattern in hopes of honoring the sharp winds that have shaped the Hotaka Mountains over time. At a glance, the pattern seems somewhat random, but this doesn’t deflect from its beauty in the slightest.

Its surroundings are complemented well by the 24-hour crystal bezel, the contrast of white and silver tones, in addition to day and night indicators. Throughout the watch brand’s history, they have played with many hues of green in their timepieces. This shade is specifically one of the boldest, in my opinion, and the textured pattern only takes it to new heights.

You’ll find a small date window at the 4 o’clock position that’s easy enough to read but not large enough to distract from the dial’s beauty. Other details include the power reserve indicator at the 9 o’clock position, and indices are engraved with a visibly ribbed texture. I love that the minute track is equally vibrant to its surroundings without taking away from any part of the design. 

Of course, in low lighting, the 12, 3, 6, and 9 markers glow due to their touch of LumiBrite. As an additional note, I don’t find myself doing double-takes at my dial, even if it’s in dim lighting. I’ve found it maintains this luminosity for a surprising amount of time.  With hour, minute, and GMT hands on top of easy bezel rotations ensures you always know what time it is.

Putting the Spring Dive SBGE295 in Motion

The Spring Drive movement of this Grand Seiko watch comes with some respectable detail. Featuring the mechanical Caliber 9R66 alongside quartz precision, it promises an accuracy of  ±1 seconds per day and  ±15 seconds per month.

Its effortlessly smooth glide will always impress, and it’s entirely silent without a single passing click. While I don’t necessarily have a problem with the tick of a quartz movement, it’s hard not to be impressed by the unique Spring Drive quality. 

The 9R66 is also the first in-house Spring Drive movement to come with the GMT function, which is now a staple of the design. Wearers can also appreciate the sizable 72-hour power reserve on a full wind.

What makes this watch a true GMT timepiece is its ability to adjust the hour hand without affecting the GMT hand’s position. Those who travel for business or pleasure will appreciate the easy timezone adjustments of the GMT hand and date display on the dial. 

With only a brief look, there are a few minor details you might have missed about this movement.  The Caliber 9R66 was released in 2006 and stems from the predecessor 9R65. 

Moreover, a fourth hand was added from its previous version, which is dual time zone tracking. A detail I really appreciate more than anything is that it features automatic winding, working alongside your wrist movements.

It’s truly a sight to behold for newcomers and enthusiasts, as the seamless movement on top of beautiful design is something anyone can appreciate. The combination of silent movement and easy adjustments make it a fan favorite for everyday wear. Moreover, its continuous movement symbolizes the fact that time never stops. 

While the many small details about movements are important, you can’t ever ignore how the watch strap looks and feels. Even with adjustments being possible, the nuances of a watch strap can be a quick deal breaker for a lot of people.

A Look at the Strap Quality

Sitting at a 21mm lug width, the strap on the SBGE295 is beyond comfortable. While the lug width can make it challenging to find other straps, the design makes it pretty easy to swap out, nonetheless. It includes a flawless triple-folding clasp with push button release and three-link stainless steel across the entire band. 

You can find several visible features that make the strap stand out. Some of my highlights include polished details across the band and four different micro-adjustments for a varied fit.

The specifics of the band design may seem bulkier on thinner wrists, but the adjustments can help with that. It also blends extremely well into the case with a similar approach in contrasting finishes. Unlike some other Grand Seiko designs, this is the only band style available for the SBGE295.

Aside from Grand Seiko’s unique touch to all of their craftsmanship, many aspects of this watch offer a classic, reliable look. There’s a symphony of engineering happening here that catches my interest beyond surface-level beauty. 

The polished accents on the strap are the perfect width, in my opinion, and never seem to distract from the brushed contrast. With the right lighting, this can create a gradient-like effect that’s undeniably gorgeous.

With the right fit, you’ll barely even notice it’s there until that color catches someone’s eye. However, to really get an understanding of what the full experience is like with this Grand Seiko, it requires acknowledging the entirety of its design and performance.

The On-Wrist Day-to-Day Experience

Although many people refer to the somewhat larger nature of this watch, the engineering behind the sloped design is the main reason I ever gave it a look. With the right fitting, it will feel snug to the wrist without causing any kind of discomfort. No sliding or rotating around the wrist. Of course, the completely silent movement, which makes it a little stealthier on the day-to-day, is a plus.

Then again, it will have its time to shine, as it can stand out from any suit and is a great compliment for more active lifestyles. Even if the watch looks somewhat larger from a bird’s eye view, it will feel smaller due to the curved engineering. 

The sweet spot would be for those with a 7.5-inch wrist or higher. Once again, take it from me: my wrist doesn’t come close to that, and I still love the fitting look of the case.

I find the simplicity and precision of the crown and easy-to-read dial make it a great starter choice for any new enthusiast. As for the veterans, it’s the smaller details that will ring a bell. A few examples include a silent Spring Drive movement, a durable bi-directional bezel, and mechanical caliber and quartz regulation.

There are a few key aspects about this watch that are more than memorable and make it a great option for daily wear. A stylish and deep green dial with a contrasting texture; I catch myself staring at it in different lighting all the time.

Aside from this, you’ll love the continuous silent hand motion with excellent precision. The angled crown is easy to access, and the rotation feels buttery and effortless.

It’s always understandable to explore your options, but the SBGE295 is definitely considered one of the more affordable luxury watches. Pricing is bound to vary based on where you look, but it sits at a crossing point that’s great for both newcomers and veterans. Not to mention, anyone who owns one will have something they can pass down for generations if properly taken care of.

Pricing and Availability

For the most part, with most reputable retailers, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGE295 goes for anywhere between $6,000 and $6,600. I find it difficult to find my preferences under the $8,000 range most of the time, so I see this as a win. Considering this would be a lifelong investment, it’s well worth the asking price from my point of view.

Availability isn’t too much of an issue, either. Especially with Exquisite Timepieces, as we maintain a reasonable price point based on current market values. For pre-owned versions of this watch, you can generally find it available for $5,200 to $5,600.

As time passes, pricing will inevitably shift a bit, but this is more than reasonable, even with the watch only being a little over a year old. A fantastic introductory timepiece or another beautiful addition to an enthusiast’s collection, Grand Seiko did well to honor the Hotaka Mountains with this design.

The Bottom Line

Is the Grand Seiko SBGE295 worth the investment? More than you’ll know until you can put one on for yourself. Not only does it feel like the perfect weight and feel for most people, but the deep textured green of the dial is a must-have.

I can’t get over the LumiBrite, and the contrasting accents of the stainless steel make the watch pop no matter what you’re wearing for the day. Although this watch hails from the Sports Collection, it’s a great option for everyday wear that won’t distract too much from your ensemble. If you’re looking for something new and unique in the market, this is a Grand Seiko design you don’t want to skip out on.

I have to be honest, there are few collections of watches in the luxury market that have captivated quite as intensely as the Grand Seiko Seasons Collection. I’ve followed this collection with bated breath ever since it debuted in 2019, but since these models aren’t all that easy to come by, I’d only ever seen a few in person. 

To me, this is a collection that has set a new benchmark for dial construction – even for Grand Seiko – with each dial reflecting one of the twenty four “sekki” in Japan (more on that shortly). The original four models featured Spring Drive movements and have become popular models in their own right. But a few years later, another installment was introduced: the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch. This model combines a uniquely textured dial inspired by “Shōsho,” the high summer, and is powered by one of the brand’s in-house hi-beat GMT movements. 

History of the Grand Seiko Seasons Collection 

For those of you new to the Grand Seiko Seasons collection, this is a line-up of beautiful dress watches from the Japanese watchmaker that captures the essence of the four seasons through exquisite dial designs. 

In Japan, they don’t simply just name the months spring, summer, fall, and winter. Instead, they have 24 “sekki”, solar terms in the Japanese calendar that mark specific seasonal changes. Grand Seiko’s Seasons Collection reflects these “sekki” with dials that embody the unique colors and textures of the changing seasons. 

When the first four models of this collection were released in 2019, they set a new standard in dial craftsmanship and showcased a clear distinction between Grand Seiko and its sibling brand, Seiko. While Seiko offers a range of quality timepieces, Grand Seiko operates as a separate entity, focusing on high-end, intricate designs with superior mechanics. 

These initial models featured Spring Drive movements and classic time-and-date-only displays. A little later, in 2020, Grand Seiko introduced several exclusive models for the US market, also powered by Spring Drive movements but with added power reserve indicators. 

Then came the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch in 2021, which added an extra layer of functionality to the collection. This model incorporates a GMT hand and a 24-hour scale powered by a Hi-Beat movement. 

My initial concern was whether this additional functionality would overwhelm the dial, potentially detracting from the sophisticated aesthetic for which Grand Seiko is known. However, as a frequent traveler, I find that having a GMT feature is incredibly practical, and I’m eager to see if the SBGJ249 manages to maintain the refined elegance of the Seasons Collection while offering this added functionality.

A Tall Stainless Steel Case 

As soon as the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 arrived for review, I couldn’t wait to strap it onto my wrist. And let me tell you, I was blown away—most by the dial (which I’ll dive into shortly) but also by the overall case design. 

With a relatively small wrist of about five and a half inches, I was excited that a GMT watch with these dimensions wore so well.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s definitely a statement piece, but that’s exactly what I love about it. The size is perfect for getting noticed without feeling overwhelming. 

The Grand Seiko SBGJ249 measures 39.5mm wide, 14.1mm thick, with a lug-to-lug span of 46.9mm. The width is ideal—versatile enough to suit a range of wrist sizes – while the thickness is on the larger side for a dress watch, making it a bit more challenging to slide under a tight shirt cuff. But that said, you have to appreciate that the movement inside needs that space to work its magic. The extra height is down to the additional GMT hand and the box-shaped sapphire crystal. 

The case back does feature a domed, almost bubble-like finish that helps the watch to sit lower than its height suggests, though it’s still relatively thick for a dress watch. The case shape is a nod to the classic 62GS design, and as such, most of the case is polished using Grand Seiko’s renowned Zaratsu technique, which creates a mirror-like finish. The sloping stepped bezel, case sides, and faceted lugs all benefit from this high polish, with just enough brushed detailing to highlight the crisp transitions that Grand Seiko masters so well. 

Unlike some earlier models in the Grand Seiko Seasons collection, this one has a 30-meter water resistance, compared to the 100 meters we’ve seen before. While I wish it offered a bit more protection—especially since I’d consider this a go-to travel watch—it’s still a dress watch at heart, so 30 meters isn’t out of the ordinary. The water resistance is mainly due to the knurled and polished push-pull crown at 3 o’clock, which replaces the typical screw-down crown seen on other models.

A Water-Inspired Dial

Grand Seiko is famous for many things: their meticulous Zaratsu-polished cases, their in-house movements, and, of course, their stunning dials. I can’t think of a time I’ve been disappointed by a Grand Seiko dial, and the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 certainly lives up to these high standards. 

What I love most about Grand Seiko isn’t just that they create beautiful dials; it’s that they weave elements of Japanese culture into every design. Whether inspired by the intricate patterns of traditional Japanese fabrics or the textures of a specific tree near the Grand Seiko studio, their dials always tell a story.

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch, it’s part of the Seasons collection, celebrating one of the 24 “sekki” called Shōsho—late summer. The dial has a soft, understated elegance, colored in a crisp pale blue that shifts to almost silver depending on the light. 

According to Grand Seiko, it’s meant to evoke the surface of water when sunlight dances on it, and the wind creates gentle ripples. Water was the first thing that came to mind when I saw the dial, so Grand Seiko has truly nailed the aesthetic.

This is one of those dials you can stare at for ages, and as always with Grand Seiko, it looks even better in person than in photos. While I’m not certain of the exact techniques used to craft this dial, I’m sure it wasn’t easy—despite the dial’s relaxed, effortless appearance, with its horizontal brush strokes that create these delicate waves.

The circumference is adorned with a half-style printed railway minute track in black, interrupted by faceted indices with polished surfaces. Just inside the hour markers is the 24-hour scale, printed in deep navy blue, perfectly matching the heat-treated blue GMT hand. 

The hour and minute hands are sharp and dauphine-shaped, while the seconds hand is left sleek and simple. Completing the design is a sculpted date window at 3 o’clock, an applied GS signature at 12 o’clock above the black-printed Grand Seiko logo and the movement details neatly printed at 6 o’clock.

As I mentioned earlier, my biggest concern with the SBGJ249 was whether the dial might feel cluttered with the addition of extra complications. But I’m happy to report that it doesn’t. Grand Seiko has done a fantastic job of balancing the new markings and hands, maintaining the elegance of a dress watch while adding practical functionality.

A High-Beat GMT Movement 

The most notable change for the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch compared to previous novelties added to the brand’s Seasons collection is its movement and the added functionality that comes with it. 

While Grand Seiko is perhaps best known for their innovative Spring Drive movements, which blend the best of mechanical and quartz technology, they also have an impressive lineup of Hi-Beat movements that are purely mechanical and boast remarkable performance. 

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 is powered by the Caliber 9S86 movement, a robust automatic winding movement with anti-magnetic and shock-resistant properties. It also has a power reserve of 55 hours and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (that’s 10 beats per second). 

It’s also impressively been adjusted in six positions and offers an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day, which is even better than the standard set by COSC for chronometer certification. 

The added GMT complication in this watch is a “true” GMT function, which is a significant feature for frequent travelers like myself. Unlike an office GMT, which requires resetting all the hands to change time zones, a true GMT allows you to adjust the local hour hand independently using the crown in the second position, without stopping the seconds hand or affecting the accuracy. 

This means you can switch time zones seamlessly while the watch continues running smoothly. And while it’s not quite as fluid as a Spring Drive movement, the seconds hand of the Caliber 9S86 still glides relatively smoothly, making ten tiny incremental jumps every second, compared to the 6 or 8 jumps of standard movements running at 3 or 4 Hz. 

The movement is showcased through the screwed case back of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch, protected by sapphire crystal. While the finishing of the movement isn’t overly decorative, it’s fitting for a movement focused on functionality. You’ll find wide Geneva-style stripes across the central bridges and oscillating rotor, polished screw heads, a polished barrel, bevelling on the bridge edges, and gold-filled engravings.

A Metal Bracelet

The bracelet on the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch follows the classic style of the Seasons Collection, featuring a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The outer links are brushed, while the inner links have a polished finish, creating a subtle yet striking contrast. The bracelet is secured with a two-button deployment clasp, topped with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

The clasp is slim and tapered, which gives the watch a sleek profile on the wrist. However, this does mean it doesn’t include a micro-adjustment feature, which might be a drawback for those who prefer precise sizing. Fortunately, the bracelet comes with half links, allowing for some degree of fine-tuning to get that perfect fit.

One thing to keep in mind is the 19mm lug width. While it can be a bit tricky to find straps in this size, the good news is that the watch has drilled lugs, so making strap changes is easy and hassle-free. So, even if the 19mm width limits your options a bit, you’ll still have the flexibility to swap out the bracelet for a strap that suits your style. I’d personally love to see this watch on a dark blue alligator leather strap. I feel like it would suit the dial and its navy blue hardware perfectly.

On-Wrist Experience 

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch make it versatile enough to fit a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as five and a half inches (if you prefer a larger watch) to around 7.5 inches. However, the watch does have a noticeable thickness due to its domed sapphire crystal and automatic movement, which means it’s not the best option for slipping under a shirt cuff. 

This gives it a sportier feel, though it can still be dressed up for more formal occasions. On the wrist, it feels incredibly sturdy and robust—exactly what you want from a watch when you’re traveling. You need that peace of mind, knowing you have something reliable that you don’t have to constantly worry about. 

Now, does the 30-meter water resistance let it down a bit? Yes. I’d say that’s the biggest drawback for me with this watch. It’s something to keep in mind, especially if you’re used to sports watches that can handle a quick dip in the pool. But as long as you’re aware that this isn’t your typical sports watch and remember to take it off before getting into the water, it’s not a deal-breaker. 

For me, the standout feature of this watch, and what really makes it a joy to wear, is the dial. It’s breathtaking. I’ve honestly found it hard to focus on writing this review because I keep getting lost in the dial’s beauty. The texture, while subtle, is exquisitely detailed, perfectly capturing the effect of light dancing on a breezy water surface—just as Grand Seiko intended. The color is equally stunning, hovering between pale blue and silver and shifting depending on how the light hits it. It’s the kind of dial that will make this watch a conversation starter, no matter the occasion.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch retails brand new for $6,800 from authorized Grand Seiko stockists like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s not the smallest of price tags, but when you take into account the level of case finishing, the in-house hi-beat movement with added GMT complication, and, of course, the insane finishing on the textured dial, the price really does make sense. 

In fact, I think it’s well-priced for a watch of this caliber, and having worn it this past week, I think it is worth every penny. If needed, you can also find the watch on the second-hand market for a little cheaper. I’ve seen a few pre-owned models offered between $4,500 and $5,000. 

At the time of writing this, the Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 watch is a permanent fixture in the Japanese watchmaker’s collection. But it is a model that has been around for three years now, so if it’s one you’re really interested in, I wouldn’t leave it on your bucket list for too long.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance “Shōsho” SBGJ249 is a stunning watch, but like any design, it’s not without a couple of minor critiques. The first is its water resistance. With only 30 meters, it’s a bit less than I’d expect for a watch that gives off a daily-beater, travel-friendly vibe. However, considering that it looks like a dress watch, this level of water resistance isn’t unusual—most dress watches have similar ratings.

My other concern is the case thickness. It’s a bit taller than I’d typically prefer, but I understand that when you’re dealing with a hi-beat movement of this caliber and added complications like a GMT, the case needs to accommodate those features. So, while it’s not as sleek as some other options, the extra height is justifiable.

That said, everything else about this watch is exceptional. The case finishing is top-notch, the movement’s accuracy is impressive, and as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the dial is truly the star of the show. I can’t find a single flaw with the dial. Even my initial concerns about it feeling cluttered due to the GMT hand and 24-hour scale have been put to rest. It’s a gorgeous watch, and as long as you’re mindful of the water resistance and dimensions, I’m confident you’ll love it as much as I do.