Category: Grand Seiko

Fall is my favorite season. There’s something beautiful about the sound of crunchy leaves on the ground and the excuse to add pumpkin and cinnamon into every recipe. It’s also a time when a subtle yet captivating palette comes to life, often filled with oranges, rust and deep red. But when autumn comes near its end, there are other tones that we often don’t even notice. These include the delicate silvers of frost and the muted green tones of fading leaves. It’s this nuanced spectrum of colors and textures that Grand Seiko beautifully brings to life in their Heritage SBGA427 watch, a watch I have been excited to get hands-on with for quite some time now.

Grand Seiko’s Seasons Collection

If you haven’t already checked out Grand Seiko’s Seasons collection, I urge you to do so. The Japanese watch brand has managed to capture the essence of Japan’s twenty-four “sekki” in a range of dial designs. “Sekki” basically describes the different markers of the changing seasons throughout the year. 

Whereas we simply describe them as spring, summer, fall, and winter, the Japanese have a more poetic way of watching the journey of nature, whether it’s the exact moment spring awakens, known as “risshun”, or the first days of winter known as “daikan”. It’s a collection I’m incredibly fond of. There’s something really beautiful about the way Grand Seiko tells the story of the seasons and captures the look and feel of the weather and views through unique dial colors and textures. 

The collection originally debuted in 2019, introducing four watches that represented one of Japan’s twenty four sekki. These included the Grand Seiko SBGA413, named Shunbun, acting as a tribute to Japan’s cherry blossom season, and model SBGH271, known as Rikka, which honored the moment spring turns to summer. There was also SBGH273, or Shubun, to celebrate the autumnal equinox, and finally SBGA415, named Taisetsu, portraying the serene beauty of winter’s deep snowfall. 

Then, in 2020, Grand Seiko expanded the collection further with two special editions exclusive to the United States. One of these is the very watch I’m reviewing today, the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427, also known as “Soko”. This particular model celebrates the very end of autumn when the classic warm oranges of the autumn season begin to turn gray and silver as frost starts to embrace the forest.

A 62GS-Inspired Case

While the original Grand Seiko Seasons models from 2019 were a bit on the large side for my wrist—although I’d still wear them if I was feeling brave —the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 feels a lot more comfortable and wearable, especially if your wrists are on the smaller side. The difference might seem subtle, but it makes a noticeable impact. This model is slightly more refined at 39mm in width and just 12.3mm in height, compared to the previous 40mm models with their 13mm height. It’s also worth noting the slightly shorter lug-to-lug distance of 46.8mm, versus the 47.0mm of the older editions.

Like before, the Grand Seiko SBGA427 pays homage to the historical 62GS, Grand Seiko’s first automatic watch released in 1967. Known for its striking mirrored, multi-sided case and bezel-free design, the 62GS was famous for its Zaratsu-polished finish, giving it an organic, almost ethereal feel. The SBGA427 mirrors this legacy with its own sleek and soft profile that beautifully hugs the wrist.

Crafted from stainless steel with both satin and polished finishes, the watch’s polished surfaces are achieved through Grand Seiko’s intricate Zaratsu technique. This process involves meticulously polishing the stainless steel against a spinning tinplate—a craft that takes around three years to master. While Zaratsu is often used on smaller components, it’s impressive to see it applied to the entire case, resulting in a finish that captures the light beautifully. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 watch features a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, knurled for easy grip, and offers 100 meters of water resistance, underscoring its sporty design. The case back is also screwed down and includes a sapphire crystal window to showcase the Spring Drive movement inside. Above the dial, another piece of sapphire crystal is added, this time a dual-curved piece treated to anti-reflective coating on the inner surface to enhance readability in various lighting conditions.

Dial

Before we get into the details of the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427’s dial, I mentioned that there were in fact two special editions launched in 2020 exclusive to the US market. Both these models bear the nickname “Soko”, translating to “frost descends” to represent the end of autumn when the first frost touches the forest. Although named the same, their dials offer distinct variations. 

Model SBGA429, the sibling to today’s Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427, features a darker gray dial reminiscent of the shadows cast by bamboo at autumn’s end. In contrast, the SBGA427 showcases a light silver dial that represents the fleeting breaks of light in the forest of Arashiyama. Both displays exhibit a vertical grained pattern and touches of green, reflecting the diverse hues of bamboo stalks. 

The vertical satin-brushed texture of the surface cleverly emulates the tall, slender bamboo trees and creates a dynamic display that shifts in color depending on the light and angle. The dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 transitions from a light silver to a slightly darker gray, and in some cases, even displays a soft pale blue in certain lighting. 

For a brilliant touch of contrast, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 watch uses emerald green for the seconds hand, power reserve hand, and the movement lettering at 6 o’clock. The rest of the dial features silvered elements, including the sharply faceted hour and minute hands, indices, and date window border, all meticulously hand-finished with diamond-tipped milling tools to mirror the Zaratsu-polished case’s high shine. The only additional hint of color is the subtle gold on the “GS” logo at 6 o’clock, positioned above the black “Grand Seiko” text.

Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 is powered by the well-known Caliber 9R65 movement, a standout Spring Drive movement made in-house by the Japanese watchmaker. Unlike traditional mechanical movements that rely on a balance wheel and escapement, Spring Drive movements combine the best of both mechanical and quartz watchmaking. 

It uses a traditional mainspring for power, but instead of a conventional escapement, it features a unique glide wheel and a quartz crystal to regulate timekeeping. This allows for a sweeping seconds hand that moves in a completely smooth, continuous motion without any of the jerky beats or stutters you might see in other watches.

It arrives with a generous 72-hour power reserve, which you can easily track on the power reserve indicator on the dial front, and an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month or +/- 1 second per day. It really is a technical feat, combining the reliability of quartz with the charm of mechanical movements. The 30-jewel movement is visible through the exhibition case back, showcasing beautiful decoration, including striped plates and an oscillating rotor.

Straps

The design arrives on a classic three-link bracelet with a staggered link alignment for a modern, sporty look. Like the case, the bracelet is beautifully finished with polished outer flanks with their own mirror-like finish and top surfaces that are satin-brushed. It’s a pleasing set of contrasts that blends well with the case, almost making it seem like one solid piece of stainless steel. 

While the bracelet doesn’t include micro-adjustments, it does come with half links secured by screws, which allows for some flexibility in achieving a more precise fit. The single-fold clasp is finished with both polished and satin touches and features the GS logo in relief. It also employs a twin trigger release for added security and ease of use. 

One notable aspect is the 19mm lug width, which is somewhat an uncommon sight in the world of watches, so finding an alternative strap or two might be a little tricky. However, that said, it does have drilled lugs, so swapping out straps is made nice and straightforward if you’re up for a change. Speaking of straps, the watch includes a factory strap as part of the package. This strap features a crocodile pattern with green stitching that perfectly complements the green details on the dial. This strap is finished with its own stainless steel deployment buckle. 

On-Wrist Experience 

For me, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 is the perfect fusion of a dress watch and a sports watch. Its dimensions make it incredibly versatile and wearable. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 46.8mm (50mm if you include the male end links), it sits comfortably on wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches and looks just as elegant on those above seven inches.

The design strikes a fantastic balance between sophistication and durability. Its elegant case finishing and textured dial add a formal touch, while its 100-meter water resistance and robust build make it resilient enough for daily wear. Whether you’re heading to a board meeting, enjoying a night out, or embarking on an outdoor adventure, this timepiece will no doubt transition seamlessly through all these scenarios.

I’d describe the Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA427 as a democratic watch; it suits a broad range of wrist sizes and occasions. If you have a wrist size up to 7 inches, you’ll find it an excellent fit. However, if your wrist is larger than 7.5 inches, you might find it on the smaller side—unless you prefer that kind of style. For those seeking a high-end, premium watch that’s versatile enough to wear every day, this watch is a great choice. 

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 watch retails brand new for $5,000 at authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. You might also be able to find it on second-hand websites for a little cheaper if needed, although, at the time of writing this, it wasn’t an easy one to find pre-owned. Those that I could find seemed to be advertised for around $3,500 and $4,000. 

The watch is marked as a special edition, which means that although it’s not limited to a specific set of numbers, it will only be available for a specific duration. For now, it remains a permanent addition to the Japanese brand’s portfolio, but as for how long that will be the case is hard to say.

Conclusion

You hear all the time about how Grand Seiko is dedicated to handcrafting their watches, with hand finishing used both inside and out. But it’s not until you experience one up close that you truly appreciate the craftsmanship. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Soko” SBGA427 is a stunning example of this commitment. Its beauty isn’t just something you talk about; it’s something you feel on your wrist. From the exquisite dial finishing to the overall case design and Zaratsu polishing, every detail is executed to perfection—something you’d expect from Grand Seiko, but it’s always a joy to see in person. Even though I’ve worn numerous Grand Seiko watches, each time I put one on, including this model, I’m reminded of why I’ll never tire of them.

The Grand Seiko SBGC251 is a watch with staying power. Once you get some hands-on experience with it like I did, you’ll begin to appreciate all it offers. This is a watch that combines a GMT complication for travel with a sporty chronograph. 

Moreover, the chronograph counters are not presented in your typical 3-6-9 format. The unconventional dial layout is one of its most striking features, along with a lightweight, high-intensity titanium case and sophisticated Spring Drive movement, of course. Before I share what I think about the SBGC251, let’s look at where the design came from.

About The Evolution 9 Series

The SBGC251 was released back in 2022 as part of the Japanese brand’s Evolution 9 Collection, which launched a couple of years earlier. For those who don’t already know, this collection represents one of the biggest launches of the company’s entire history. 

To me, the watches from this series are all wish-list-worthy designs. They capture the traditions and landscapes of the brand’s finest practices. A culture whereby every creation since the company’s founding year of 1967 is inspired by its heritage or the nature surrounding it.

Sometimes Evolution 9 watches take inspiration from the changing seasons throughout the year – maybe a delicate blossom, caught gently floating in the spring breeze or the crisp, white snow-dusted mountains that form a backdrop to the manufacturer’s ateliers. 

Aside from capturing these natural phenomena, the collection is also home to sportier timepieces and travel companions. In fact, the SBGC251 is a combination of both. Its chronograph functions meld with a GMT complication to provide you with a tool that can be worn at the gym, in the office, or when traveling on business. 

The launch of the Evolution 9 Series a few years ago signified characteristics like a curved case, a more robust bracelet, and wider lugs. The brand also decided to make the hands of these watches bolder for greater legibility at night and even created a new font for the numerals on the bezel. All watches within this collection represent an updated version of the familiar Grand Seiko DNA and take inspiration from the original 44GS series.

The SBGC251 Takes Inspirational Cues from the 44GS

The 44GS is the model responsible for shaping the quintessential “Grand Seiko Style” and marked a pivotal point for the brand in terms of its approach to design.

The story goes a little like this. Before the birth of the 44GS watches in 1967, every Grand Seiko watch looked different from the next. While this lack of consistency wasn’t exactly a problem, what the brand wanted to achieve was a watch with a distinctive identity. Grand Seiko wanted to be recognized for an identifiable design language. A young designer had the answer to this.

Taro Tanaka established a new standard for aesthetics that would run through the core of the brand’s catalog like strands of DNA. The criteria gave each watch an instantly recognizable look and a set of features that could be mistaken for no other watch on the market. This grammar of design was known as the “Grand Seiko Style” AKA the 44GS.

The 44GS took its name from the 44GS Calibre, or the 4420 to be more precise. Having led a very successful 50-year run, the design aesthetics that define this look are still as important to Grand Seiko collectors and the brand itself today. 

In fact, you could say it has influenced pretty much every Grand Seiko watch released ever since. The 44GS introduced geometric elements, flat surfaces, angles enhanced by meticulous case finishes, sharp flanks, and geometric silhouettes. Intrigued? We’re going to look at some examples of these design elements in this review of the Grand Seiko SBGC251.

The Case

I mentioned earlier that the Evolution 9 Series, of which the SBGC251 belongs, is inspired by the 44GS and examples of this can be appreciated as you peel back the layers of this design and uncover its hidden details. Uniquely, the Grand Seiko Style can be recognized for its two-dimensional curves and flat surfaces that make up the distortion-free case, lugs, bezel, and case sides of the reference SBGC251. 

Tanaka clearly took a bold step away from the conventional rounded case when developing this set of criteria. Instead, he focussed on inward and outward angles to define the Grand Seiko case and bezel that we have all come to know and love today.

I think these small details are the most important overall. The angles of the case, bezel, and lugs reflect the light in so many different ways on the wrist. In a way, they kind of act as a metaphor for Grand Seiko’s multifaceted skills in craftsmanship. The beautifully carved elements follow through into the hands and hour markers of the dial, perpetuating the brand’s pursuit of perfection.  

Now, make no mistake, this is a large watch. Its 45mm case is crafted from high-intensity titanium – a material that is interchangeable with grade 5 titanium. It sits at a depth of 16.3mm, and from lug tip to lug tip, it measures 52.3mm. There are several 44GS styling elements seen throughout the case. The pointed multi-faceted lug ends with both satin and polished finishes are one example. The polished parts feature the optically smooth mirror finish that is known as Zaratsu polishing.

Earlier, I spoke a little about the period before Tanaka birthed the idea of the Grand Seiko Style. The Japanese brand had already won several awards for precision by the 1960s, but the identity of a Grand Seiko watch case had not yet been established, and this is really where the Zaratsu polishing technique came into play. Tanaka realized very quickly that while Grand Seiko watches were perfect as an individual design, they needed an identity and more brilliance.

Many prototypes were created before reaching the distortion-free, brilliant mirrored finish we all come to associate with the brand today. Zaratsu polishing was the solution to achieving a perfectly flat surface. 

Buffing simply wasn’t enough since it softened the angles that technicians had worked so hard to create. Zaratsu was the missing ingredient in the Grand Seiko recipe. The technique follows the rough buffing and sanding process after a case is carved and sculpted, not to mention stamped with several hundred tonnes of force – a process that requires an expert skill level.

Zaratsu takes the name of a European company that created a special machine by which the case of a watch is polished to an incredibly high standard. The flat surfaces of a case can be polished using this machine by holding it up to the wheel rather than at the side. 

The rotating metal wheel is capped with sandpaper and requires a steady hand and keen eye to achieve its special surface finish. The smallest change in pressure by the hand of the craftsman can change the outcome of the case drastically. Thus, the process requires a significant level of intuition. The process is completed with a final buff, again dependent on the craftsman’s sense of touch.

The case of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 is 100-meter water resistant and is upheld by the help of a Grand Seiko-stamped screw-down crown at 3 o’clock. The crown is executed in a mix of polished and blasted finishes, similar to the buckle logo, while the bezel is sharply knurled to provide an easy grip under the fingertips. This is one of my favorite features in a Grand Seiko watch. 

The finish on the bezel knurling is where you can really appreciate the level of detail in a watch like this, priced at just under the $12k mark. The bezel glides beautifully under a Teflon undercoating, while the top is executed in glossy black color, capped with sapphire glass for a more refined finish. This GMT 24-hour bezel can be used in conjunction with the blue GMT hand to track a third time zone, providing a very handy feature for those having to gauge time zones for business purposes.

The Dial

The hands and hour markers on the dial of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 shine like a diamond. They enhance legibility to no end. Compare this to a simple handset from a Tissot, for example, and the difference is noticeable. The sharp, angular sword-shaped hands entice light to play along their edges while at the same time utilizing flat surfaces for maximum impact. Grand Seiko has done well in creating a highly legible dial by night, too. 

The application of the luminous material on the hands and hour markers can’t be faulted. The pill-shaped hour markers illuminate in a rich green glow, as do the main hands, while the triangular tip on the GMT hand and the 24-hour bezel boast a vibrant blue emission.

The constant seconds on the left side of this handcrafted dial is accompanied by a 30-minute chronograph sub-dial at 1:30, chronograph hours counter at 4:30, and a handy power reserve indicator nestled between 7 and 8 o’clock. 

In other Grand Seiko reviews, we’ve talked about the appeal of the power reserve indicator and the brand’s decision to relocate it to the back of the case in some of the company’s Seasons Collection watches, like the White Birch. I feel that this design looks in proportion to the rest of the dial. I love the unconventional location of the sub-dials in this watch. They’re not only quirky but give the dial a technical look too.

The Movement

It is the movement of this Grand Seiko watch that fascinates me. For its price point, it offers great visual depth through a see-through caseback. You can quite easily become entranced with the Spring Drive movement and its level of finishing. It’s incredibly impressive. Grand Seiko’s technology is nothing short of beautiful.

The Calibre 9R36 is one of the world’s most accurate chronographs. With the ability to measure elapsed time to the nearest fraction of a second, this Grand Seiko chronograph is perfect for calculating speed and distance. It promises an accuracy of +15 seconds a month, or -1 second a day, and comprises 50 jewels for a smooth performance. 

The Spring Drive movement works with the use of the Tri-synchro regulator and a thermo-compensator to check for temperature fluctuations throughout the day. A quartz crystal regulates an electromagnetic braking system, combining mechanical and quartz-powered benefits in one design. The Spring Drive Calibre 9R36 inside the SBGC251 watch offers a power reserve of 72 hours and is what gives the seconds hand an effortless gliding motion.

The Strap

The lug width of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 measures 23mm, and the bracelet is crafted from the same high-intensity titanium as seen on the case. If you take a closer look at the shoulders of the links, you’ll see a nice, polished finish, which I think is what elevates the timepiece to a dressier aesthetic so perfectly. 

The top of the links boasts a satin effect for added contrast against the polished edges, while pins and sleeves are used for the construction of the bracelet. It’s what we tend to see in all titanium bracelets made by Grand Seiko. Several holes are drilled in pairs on the clasp to offer anchoring points for re-sizing.

The titanium buckle has a single-fold design with a twin-trigger release mechanism. The logo is also done very tastefully on the buckle. It’s a nice mix of polished and sandblasted finishes, which I feel enable it to stand out crisply. The lugs of the case have strap tool holes, which easily dismount the strap or bracelet when using a strap tool.

Generally speaking, these are rare in watches within this price bracket on the Swiss market. The fact that Grand Seiko makes strap changes so simple and easy is an added bonus. You can change the aesthetic of the reference SBGC251 simply by changing the band, depending on whether you want something sporty, classic, or dressy. I love this about Grand Seiko watches. A watch that easily transforms with a quick strap change is surely great value for money, right?

How It Wears

The SBGC251 measures a broad 45mm diameter, and while the lightweight titanium material of the case compensates for its heftiness, it is still a large watch. If your wrist measures 6.25 inches, you may struggle to carry this watch off aesthetically. Larger than 6.25-inch wrists, however, shouldn’t have too much of a problem. If you love the watch but you’re unsure whether your wrist can pull it off, you’d be better off switching out its titanium bracelet for a leather band.

The watch carries some thickness too, so it won’t easily slip under every cuff. Worn with a jacket, however, this Grand Seiko watch really comes into its own. In fact, I’d go as far as to say the watch was made for the jacket-wearing type of collector. Does it look good with a leather jacket? It certainly does. A bomber jacket? Absolutely. 

That said, you can easily go more casual with this Grand Seiko watch too. The black dial and baby blue GMT hand lend themselves to a very versatile wardrobe. On the whole, this is an aggressive, sporty model with multifunctional uses, so it makes sense that Grand Seiko made it versatile enough to wear in different attires.

A thinner case would make this watch fit a little better, but all in all, there is plenty to love about this watch and very little to nitpick at. So long as you have the wrist size to carry it, this Grand Seiko watch is ergonomically designed for comfort, style, and functionality. It’s the kind of watch I would easily place inside the “wear-it-till-you’re-dead” bracket, and that’s mainly due to its classic black design, useful complications, and lightweight construction.

The Price

While for many, a Rolex is the ultimate grail and is considered by many as one of life’s greatest accomplishments, Grand Seiko offers something that a Rolex simply cannot – affordability.  The SBGC251 is priced at $11,400 at Exquisite Timepieces and gives you plenty of bang for your buck. 

Not only does the watch offer an in-house movement and a multi-complication design (a combined GMT function and chronograph dial), but its Zaratsu case polishing is a genuine handcraft that takes years to master and hours to complete. You’d struggle to find a watch with a similar level of hand-applied execution as this for the same price point.

Conclusion

The familiar design language of the Evolution 9 Series by Grand Seiko is something that can either be amped up or diluted down depending on the design. The sculpted nature of the watch really impresses me, and it’s something that I’ll always remember about the design, having had some hands-on time with it. Sure, the watch certainly wasn’t made for my female wrist. 

But I can certainly appreciate the kind of “wear it ‘til the end” design that a sports watch collector may be looking for. The GMT function is going to come in handy whether you travel frequently or just want to track friends and family in another time zone and want to schedule a quick phone call.

I very easily (and quite quickly) grew a fondness and respect for the SGBC251. As so often is the case, I barely realize I have, until the time comes to hand it back over. Though I can’t carry its proportions on my wrist, it offers everything a male collector needs in a daily beater. Functionality, reliability, and style.  

It’s the kind of watch that you could easily forget you’re wearing but in a good way. At the same time, it’s still an interesting enough design to keep one’s watch enthusiasm alive. You can check it out in some more detail here at Exquisite Timepieces.

There’s nothing better than a watch that seems rather simple and timeless in its aesthetic at first but in fact, has a whole lot more to offer upon closer inspection. The beauty of its design lies in its complexity, which can only be appreciated by those who take the time to explore its intricacies, whether that be the meticulous movement inside or the more outward displays of craftsmanship on the case and dial. Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko has a number of designs that fall into this category, and one I’ve yet to truly explore up close is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299.

History of the Grand Seiko SBGH299

If you’re already a fan of Grand Seiko, it’ll come as no surprise to you that model SBGH299 is inspired by an aspect of its country of origin. Most Grand Seiko watches take inspiration from their Japanese heritage in one way or the other, whether it be a dial color evoking the color of snow on a particular mountain seen outside Grand Seiko Studio’s Shizukuishi or a texture imitating the fabric of traditional Japanese attire.

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is one of the same. It’s a watch that is beautifully modeled after the look and texture of fresh snowfall in the winter mountain scenery seen outside the company’s factory windows. It was released alongside several other new 44GS Hi-Beat references back in early 2023, and although it was nothing groundbreaking in terms of technology and design, the collection made sure one of their best-selling models was kept up-to-date and refreshed.

The collection debuted five references in total, all replacing five existing models with some minor changes made to the case, bracelet, and dials. The series includes reference SBGH301 with a dark gray dial, SBGJ263 with a silver GMT dial, SBGJ265 also with GMT function on a black dial, and SBGJ267, a boutique-only edition with a blue GMT display. Then of course, there’s SBGH299, the model we’re reviewing today, a classic time-only model with an off-white dial.

An Ever-Brilliant Case

Like its brothers and sisters in the Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat collection, the ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 model is designed after the iconic 44GS case. What is this? It’s a 1967 Grand Seiko reference that was pivotal in shaping the brand’s style and establishing its so-called Grammar of Design. The design philosophy emphasizes simplicity, precision, and beauty, with the cases often boasting flat surfaces and crisp, sharp angles for a clean and refined look. Similarly, they use their famous Zaratsu polishing technique to achieve a distortion-free mirror-like surface.

One look at the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch, and it’s clear these principles have been applied to the case. The almost barrel-shaped architecture has multiple facets and finishes that allow it to catch the light beautifully.  The strong, angular shoulders are vertically brushed for contrast against the Zaratsu polished flat surfaces found on the bezel, case sides, and lugs. It’s a beautiful example of how light play can make all the difference in how a watch wears.

The case of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch is masterfully engineered from a material the Japanese watchmaker calls “Ever-Brilliant Steel.” It’s a high-grade, proprietary stainless steel alloy known for its exceptional durability, corrosion resistance, and almost bright white appearance. Its robustness is essential, of course, but the bright white finish of the metal is its standout feature. It gives the watch a more luxurious and refined look compared to traditional stainless steel watches.

As for dimensions, the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is a relatively average-sized watch with a 40mm diameter, 13.3mm height, and a lug-to-lug of 46.2mm. I have to say, its lug-to-lug feels a little larger than that, in my opinion, and I think that’s predominantly down to the male end links (possibly one of the only features of this watch I would change – but more on that later.)

The watch arrives with dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on the front, treated with anti-reflective coating for a distortion-free view of the dial. The glass makes up much of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299’s thickness but does add a touch of vintage flair to the design. The case back also presents sapphire crystal glass, with a knurled pattern surrounding the round insert, drawing your eyes to the movement exposed in the middle. Like the case back, the crown is screwed down and decorated with the GS logo in relief. It provides a healthy water-resistant rating of 100 meters.

A Dial Worthy of a Close Up

You need to trust me when I say this is one of those watches where press shots and online imagery of the watch do not do the dial justice. When the light hits it just right, the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch showcases an absolutely beautiful sunburst pattern that has an almost silver-cream finish to it. It’s almost champagne in some lights before turning a cooler shade of silver in others. It isn’t just your standard sunburst pattern, either. It’s incredibly complex and looks almost like fur or the barbs of a feather.

I’m a huge fan of the texture here. It’s incredibly subtle, which to me, makes it all the more magical. It’s one of those watches you have to see up close to appreciate the complexities behind it, and if you’re like me and you prefer a watch with some hidden intricacies, you’ll love this, too. If it was me, I’d have taken out the date window placed at 3 o’clock so more attention could be placed on the dial, but I understand many watch wearers require the convenience of date complication and so, there it must remain.

Like the silvered border of the date window, the hardware of the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is predominantly silver. The hour and minute hands are sharp and sword-shaped, paired with the faceted and brightly polished oblong hour markers sitting at each 5-minute interval. The minute track is printed in black, and the seconds hand, left perfectly straight and uniform, is blued for a beautiful contrast against its creamy silver backdrop.  

A High-Beat Movement

Unsurprisingly for a watch named the Grand Seiko 44GS Hi-Beat ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’, reference SBGH299 is powered by one of Grand Seiko’s well-known 9S hi-beat calibers. The exact movement in question is the Caliber 9S85 which beats at an outstanding rate of 36,000vph or 5Hz. It has 37 jewels and promises simple time and date functionality. Be aware it doesn’t have a GMT complication like some of the other references in the 2023 collection.

Like all Grand Seiko watches, the caliber is tested to the highest standards, beating even the regulations required by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). It has been adjusted in six different positions and tested for an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day. Much of its reliability comes from its Spron 610 hairspring, which Grand Seiko argues offers three times more resistance to electromagnetic frequencies and two times the shock resistance of the previous generation Spron hairsprings.

We’re also promised a healthy 55-hour power reserve and when off the wrist, the movement is worth being admired thanks to its beautiful finishing. The use of Zaratsu polishing on the movement’s plates and bridges creates a mirror-like finish that works incredibly well with the finishing on the case. Equally, the Geneva stripes on the rotor and perlage on the mainplate add additional visual appeal.

A Full Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 watch arrives on a solid Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet with three-row links and a beautiful combination of polished and brushed finishing. It has a 19mm lug width which tapers down to 18mm at the folding clasp. The 19mm size is a little awkward for those hoping to find an array of straps to swap this bracelet out with, but its drilled lugs do make it a possibility.

The buckle is a standard Grand Seiko folding clasp that follows suit to the crown and shows off the GS logo in relief. Sadly, there is no micro-adjustment on the bracelet, but there is a half link on both sides, so you should be able to get a pretty snug fit.  As mentioned earlier, the strap does include male end links, which is something I’d love to swap out of the design. It makes fitting this model on smaller wrists a little harder as they stick out rather a lot, adding to the overall lug-to-lug width.

On-Wrist Experience

I have to be honest, of all the Grand Seiko watches out there, the ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 has never been one to pique my interest. There’s really no other reason than because the imagery I had seen online didn’t look all that enticing. But I should have known; no Grand Seiko photographs like the real thing. These are watches that have to be seen in person because the beauty is in the details you can only see up close. The subtle textures, the play of light on the dial, the meticulous finishing on the hands, and indices—all these elements come together in a way that photos simply can’t capture.

My favorite feature here has to be the dial. I was not expecting to love the creamy silver color or the finely textured sunburst finish as much as I do. It’s really beautiful, and I love how it changes and evolves in different lights. The case is also beautifully done; it’s a classic shape with a set of easy-to-wear dimensions. I have no doubt those of you looking for a daily beater or a formal dress watch will be happy with how the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 looks on your wrist.

My only irk, and it is a small one, falls to the male end links. The end links do protrude a little from the case, which makes wearing the watch on my five-and-a-half-inch wrists a little difficult. That said, I think this is more down to my distaste for having a small frame rather than the actual size of the watch. It’s worth noting though, that the Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ is going to best suit wrists of 6.5 inches or above. Anything above 8 inches and the watch might appear too small.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is available to order new from authorized stockists like Exquisite Timepieces for $6,900. It can also be purchased from second-hand sites for around $4,200. It’s a non-limited edition and since its release in 2023, Grand Seiko has made no mention of removing it from their permanent collection.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko ‘Snowfall Mount Iwate’ SBGH299 is a beautiful watch through and through. In fact, I’d say it’s something of a hidden gem in the Japanese brand’s collection. Online, it doesn’t look like anything overtly special or different, but in person, this is a stunning watch that perfectly embodies the high levels of craftsmanship Grand Seiko is renowned for. The crispness of the Ever-Brilliant Steel case is beautiful, but for me, it’s the dial that takes the cake. The intricate sunray decoration and the rich, creamy silver hue is worth taking an hour out of your day to see in person.

Quick. Name a country that produces quality watches. Most of you probably said, “Switzerland”, and that is a correct answer. However, Japan produces some of the world’s finest timepieces, and at the top of that list is Grand Seiko.

Quality, elegance, accuracy, and style are words that apply to the watches in the catalog of this prestigious brand. A recent release to Grand Seiko’s heritage collection is the SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba. 

A nod to the legendary 62GS, the brand’s first automatic watch, the SBGH343 comes with a 38mm case, reversing the trend toward larger watches.  Nature is a vital part of Japanese culture, and this timepiece pays tribute to the cherry blossoms or sakura trees that the people of Japan revere. 

I really like this watch. I cannot express that enough. Let’s take an in-depth look at this stunning recent release by the brilliant watchmakers at Grand Seiko.

History

In 1967, Grand Seiko released its first automatic watch, the 62GS. It was an instant hit, with its textured dial, bezel-less case, and Grand Seiko’s signature brushing and Zaratsu polishing, creating a mirrored finish.

The brand’s heritage collection pays tribute to this iconic timepiece. 2019 saw the release of an updated 62GS with a 40mm titanium case. Jump ahead to 2023, and Grand Seiko releases a new model that keeps the titanium but goes back to a smaller 38mm case. 

The SBGH343 is a stunning watch that combines modern and classic aesthetics. Add in Grand Seiko’s reliability and durability, and you’ve got one hell of a dress watch.

Case

As mentioned, the titanium case reverses the recent trend of larger watches and comes in at a more classic 38mm. With a 44.7mm lug-to-lug width, it’s a fairly small watch. I generally wear watches in the 41-42mm range on my average 7.25-inch wrist, so I was a little skeptical about how the SBGH343 would suit me.

I’m happy to report that it looks just fine. If you have an average or smaller wrist, odds are this watch will look great on you. Bigger people with wrists approaching 8 inches will likely find it on the small side.

The 12.9mm case thickness is a little on the chunky side for a dress watch. You can slide it under the sleeve, but not as easily as with a thinner watch. I button my cuffs with the outer button to maximize the width, and I manage.

The titanium case is finished with brushed and polished surfaces. This is something Grand Seiko does extremely well, and combined with the sharp lines, the case complements the dial and bracelet beautifully. The use of the titanium does add a bit of ruggedness, allowing you to wear the watch with more casual attire. 

The crown features the Grand Seiko logo and is actually a screw-down. This was a nice surprise. Coupled with the 100-meter water resistance, you could swim wearing this watch. However, it is a dress watch, and it’s not likely you’ll be invited to a formal function by a school of fish, so keep it on dry land.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to the overall thickness, but I think that’s a good tradeoff, as it gives the watch a nice vintage look that adds an extra touch of class. The case back is a screw-on sapphire crystal. Both front and back are treated on the inside with an anti-reflective coating that makes sure you get a good look at the dial and movement. 

Dial

In Grand Seiko tradition, the dial of the SBGH343 is truly a work of art that pays homage to nature. I tend to like more conservative dial colors. The majority of watches in my collection are black, white, or blue. I also like a green dial, and most brands offer models in this color. But nobody does a green like the one on the SBGH343.

In Japan, festivals that celebrate the blooming of the sakura tree each spring take place throughout the nation from south to north as the cherry blossoms appear. The incredible dial on this stunning timepiece is a light green color that mimics the sakura leaves in the early stages of growth.

There is so much more to the dial than just the unusual shade of green. The texture adds depth and resembles the subtle brush strokes of watercolors on linen. Grand Seiko is known for their beautifully-textured dials, and this is one of their finest. You really need to see it in person to appreciate it, so I recommend popping into your local authorized dealer if you can.

Complimenting the dial are the silver baton indices and hands. They feature both polished and brushed surfaces, which gives them depth. The Grand Seiko logo is applied at 12 o’clock with the name printed underneath. 

Grand Seiko’s attention to detail is on display in the 3 o’clock date window. At first glance, it may look like a typical presentation of this common complication, but look closer. The window is framed in the same polished silver as the hands and has a black numeral. 

Beneath the number, the background has the same linen texture as the dial. Subtle? Certainly, but these seemingly small touches are among the things that make Grand Seiko one of the best watchmakers in the business.

Finishing the dial is the minute track along the outer edge. Basic black ticks are functional and don’t interfere with the aesthetic of the dial. You may find yourself checking the time more frequently than normal just to get a look at the incredible dial. I know I did.

Movement

The SBGH343 has more than just good looks going for it. The timepiece is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85 movement. A frequency of 36,000 vph, 37 jewels, and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m give this watch a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The automatic movement has a generous power reserve of 55 hours.

In addition to providing a high degree of accuracy, the movement is as beautiful as the rest of the watch. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can view the brushed and polished stripe pattern and see the Grand Seiko name engraved in gold on the rotor. 

The caliber, number of jewels, position, and temperature adjustment information are also engraved in gold on the movement. Your fellow watch nerds will love getting a look at the back of your SBGH343, and even your horologically-challenged friends may be impressed.

For the most part, you can let the movement do its job while you enjoy the timepiece. If it’s not your everyday wearer, you may have to set and wind it before putting it on. But you get to look at that dial while you do it.

Straps

The SBGH343 comes with a three-link high-intensity titanium bracelet. The surfaces are mostly polished with brushing on the edges of the center links. The bracelet matches up nicely with the case and makes for an elegant yet somewhat sporty look.

The titanium makes for a lightweight feel, and the bracelet wraps nicely around the wrist, and I found it to be very comfortable to wear. Typical of a Grand Seiko titanium bracelet, it is held together with push pins, which makes it a bit tricky to size. 

There is no micro-adjustment, however, there are half links, so you should be able to get close to a nice fit on your wrist. The three-fold clasp has a push-button release and feels as good on the wrist as the rest of the bracelet.

The 20mm lug width and drilled lugs make it easy to change to a different bracelet or strap if you so desire. Personally, I would stick with the stock bracelet. It is designed to pair with the case and dial to give you a watch that is a work of art.

On-Wrist Experience

So, what’s it like to wear the Grand Seiko SBGH343? To quote Larry David, it feels “pretty, pretty, pretty good”. If you’ve never worn a titanium watch, the first thing you will notice is how significantly lighter it is than a stainless steel or other metal watch. The bracelet wraps comfortably around the wrist, and the clasp is secure and does not feel restrictive.

The 38mm case and 44.7mm lug-to-lug add to the comfort level. We all know the feeling of having the crown poke into the back of the hand with a larger case. You won’t face this problem with the SBGH343. The dial is easy to read at a glance, and the high degree of accuracy will help keep you on time for your most important appointments.

The smaller case size makes it an excellent choice to wear with a suit or sport coat. It has a nice dressy look. This case is on the thick side. Although it will slide under most shirt cuffs, some find it a bit too chunky for formal attire. If you have an 8-inch or thicker wrist, you will likely find it just too small.

The green dial can go with the most conservative jacket colors. Certainly, it works well with black or any shade of gray. I also like it with navy blue. If you are a bit more of an adventurous dresser and like lighter blues, burgundies, or pink, you will likely find it clashes.

For me, the appearance of a watch on the wrist is only half the story. A timepiece can give you a sense of confidence and take you outside of your normal routine.

When I wear a vintage-style pilot watch, I feel like I’m about to escort bombers over France in 1944 in my P-51 Mustang. A diver gives me the sense of exploring 18th-century shipwrecks in the Caribbean. You get the idea.

I love to wear the Grand Seiko SBGH343 when I take my wife out for a drink or dinner. Paired with a jacket and tie and a martini glass in my hand, I feel like the smoothest guy in the room. It is, honestly, that classy.

Price & Availability

So, now that you know quite a bit about this stunning timepiece, perhaps you’d like to pick one up. Naturally, you can find it at any Grand Seiko authorized dealer or order it from their website. 

Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for several brands, including Grand Seiko, and you can order online or stop by our Naples, FL boutique to get a look at the SBGH343 up close and personal and try it on. The watch retails for $7,300 new. If you are looking for a pre-owned model, you can expect to pay between $5,500 and $6,500. Compared to the dress watches of many other luxury brands, the SBGH343 is a bargain, either new or used. 

Conclusion

When it comes to well-crafted, reliable, and beautiful timepieces, Grand Seiko ranks up there with any brand on the market. The SBGH343 represents a tribute to the first GS automatic watch. If you are looking for a comfortable, stylish, and accurate dress watch in a bit smaller-than-typical size, you owe it to yourself to take a look at this stunning Grand Seiko.

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 came to us in the same year as COVID-19. Picture it, in the height of all that uncertainty and disruption to daily life, one thing remained a given for the watch-collecting community – people still loved watches. In fact, collectors were buying more of them than ever before. They suddenly found themselves with more time on their hands, fewer travel expenses, and more opportunities to expand their luxury watch collection.

One watch that aficionados weren’t having to grapple with their conscience over was the SBGJ239. It was a sleek, glossy GMT that could quite easily double up as a casual-come-sporty dress watch. Ok, so maybe those investing in it weren’t too concerned about what social outing they could wear it to first. Nor were they considering where they’d take it on their travels. The world was a different place at that moment, after all. Did this stop the Seiko Sport GMT watch from making many people happy that year? No, it did not. And the same can still be said today. It’s still a green GMT on a leather strap. It’s still ultra-reliable, impressively robust, and very accurate. It’s still beautiful.

Join me as I cover an in-depth view of the SBGJ239, which currently retails for $6,600 at Exquisite Timepieces.

History and Highlights of the Seiko Sport

Before we go into any great detail reviewing this classic-looking Seiko Sport GMT Green watch, let’s take a brief look at Grand Seiko’s history. The origins of the company will put some meat on the bones of the SBGJ239’s design and serve you with some background and depth in understanding its influence on the travel watch genre. The SBGJ239 is a functional, practical all-rounder. The travel tool carries some important GS hallmarks but has also been serving as a benchmark for other manufacturers to take inspiration from since 2020. The tales of the Japanese watchmaker’s legacy and craftsmanship are intricately interwoven into its fabric. Each model may offer a set of unique features, yet all are instantly identifiable as a Grand Seiko.

The history of Grand Seiko spans all the way back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori founded Seikosha – a clock and watchmaking business that grew from a small repair workshop in Tokyo. But it was always Hattori’s ambition to create a series of watches that were altogether more refined, high-end, and exquisite. The Grand Seiko series launched in 1960, following Seiko’s global success for over 6 decades. It captured the essence of horological perfection, both in design, style, and mechanical performance. The first watch came with a 45-hour power reserve, a hacking mechanism, and a two-phase regulator mechanism. Together, these features astounded collectors, representing next-level craftsmanship and raising the bar for global competition.

The second generation of the Grand Seiko was the date-setter, and boy, did that give collectors a glimpse into what was to come. Its manual movement was the most accurate in the world. GS then ventured into quartz movements throughout the 1980s, followed by focussing its efforts on the Spring Drive movements during the 80s and 90s. Little did Grand Seiko experts know it would take two decades to perfect this horological innovation. Was it worth the wait? Definitely so. The groundbreaking feat paved the way for the Hi-Beat, which now powers watches like the SBGJ239.

In 2017, the brand became a fully-fledged independent brand, and with that came a fleet of beautifully crafted timepieces designed in line with the company’s Evolution 9 concept. Some of these include the famous “Snowflake”, the “Omiwatari”, the “White Birch”, and the “Annual Rings” models. Some of these examples showcase exquisite dial textures that evoke the beauty of nature and the transitioning seasons of the year.

A Review of the Seiko SBGJ239

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 belongs to the company’s Sports watch collection. Of course, being a sports watch, it delivers qualities of robustness, legibility, and accuracy by the bucketload. This collection is abundant in dive watches, GMTs, and chronographs. Amongst the collection are references like the SBGA461 dive watch, with a solid 44.2mm steel case, a black dial, a matching black bezel, and a Spring Drive movement. Also, the reference SBGH289, which was a little smaller in size and powered by an automatic movement.

GMT watches by Grand Seiko, however, are some of the most enticing options within the brand’s Sport watch category. They appeal to those who travel frequently, as well as those who just love the style and the complications. Many of the models from this sector are powered by a standard automatic movement, but in 2021, Grand Seiko released a 55th-anniversary edition, complete with a Hi-Beat 36,000 movement. In addition to this white-dialed titanium version, GS also released a non-Hi-Beat version measuring 40.5mm with a blue sunburst dial and red GMT hand for enhanced legibility.

Then came the ref SBGJ247, with a stunning sunburst green dial, followed by a watch similar to the one I’m reviewing today. The ref SBGJ237 is a 44.5mm steel model with a 55-hour power reserve, a 24-hour scale, a deep blue dial, a white bezel, and a five-link stainless steel bracelet. Aside from a few differences in the color choice of the bezel, dial, and hands, this reference and the SBGJ239 are almost identical. The watch we’re looking at today, however, comes fitted on a stylish brown alligator leather band, giving it a traditional and classic feel.

The Case

The Grand Seiko Hi-beat GMT SBGJ239 is 44.2mm in diameter and boasts a hand-finished stainless steel case. The finely polished highlights offer a smooth and clean finish and are courtesy of the brand’s distinctive Zaratsu polishing technique. The case is 14.6mm thick, and lug to lug, the watch measures 50.8mm. The spacing between the lugs is 21mm.

Artisans at GS hold the case of the watch against a spinning tin plate so that it is milled to perfection. It achieves this beautiful execution which takes around three years to master. You can see in the finish of the SBGJ239’s case that this high polish gives the watch a refined and elevated execution. This is an optically smooth, mirror-like finish that accentuates the complex curvature of the case. The swell that occurs mid-case on this watch is what gives it a voluptuous and full-bodied profile. The watch also benefits from a transitional bezel that brings an added dimension to the case. The tapering lugs are a touch I really like. They bring the case into more manageable proportions. Satin finishes also give the watch some nice contrast.

I have to talk about the 72-click bezel of this watch because it’s unlike anything else in the brand’s catalog. Polished on top but satin finished on the sides, it boasts a striking two-tone 24-hour scale, capped with sapphire crystal that shields it from impact, along with a polished steel trim. The sapphire surface is what gives this watch a truly mesmerizing glossy sheen, which almost makes it perfect for doubling up as a dress watch. The watch is also 200-meter water resistant, not to mention resistant to magnetic forces up to 4,800 A/m.

The Dial

The dial of the Grand Seiko SBGJ239 is one of its most appealing characteristics. It’s a deep forest green color that sometimes looks moss-like in certain lights. In the usual Grand Seiko style, the central hour and minute hands, along with the hour markers and date frame, are all micro-finished by diamond-tipped milling tools to give them a crisp, razor-shape finish. They boast a combination of polished and satin finishes, communicating that all-important artisanal finish that GS is so well-known for.

I particularly love these elevated finishes. They are clean and sharp, enabling the key features to stand out with legibility. One of the nicest features of this sports watch is the 10-beat second hand. Similar to the alluring sweeping second hand of the Spring Drive movement, it also travels across the dial in a smooth and flowing motion. Made up of many little steps, you can barely see any jolting with the naked eye. The date features at 4 o’clock. Adjustments can be made to it very easily via the crown without affecting the running time. This is genius craftsmanship for Grand Seiko, who clearly understands the importance of this feature when traveling.

The red GMT hand also stands out with legibility, reading from a 24-hour scale on the bezel. Other finishing touches include the Grand Seiko lettering and logo at 12 o’clock and the red lettering of the GMT reference above 6 o’clock.

The Movement

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 is powered by a Hi-Beat movement, which promises exceptional accuracy and efficiency. Its design and arrangement build on the foundations of the first Hi-Beat movement launched many years ago. Let’s take a brief look at the history of the Hi-Beat.

Grand Seiko’s expertise in manufacturing the Hi-Beat movement harks all the way back to the 1960s. In 1968, the brand released the Calibre 6145. This was the birth of the first Hi-Beat movement, delivering better efficiency and accuracy. Part of that was down to the oscillating weight, which Grand Seiko specialists equipped with the “Magic Lever” system – a proprietary winding mechanism with a pawl winding system that had been produced a few years earlier. The movement was implemented into the design of the Grand Seiko 61GS – a flagship model that lasted 7 years in production and came in many variations. The principles of the design, however, were shared throughout the series, with either a date or day-date display at 3 o’clock, a distinctive tonneau-shaped case made from steel, gold-capped steel, or 18k gold, and a 3 o’clock crown. The watch was even chosen for the Osaka Time Capsule Expo a couple of years after its release.

Next came the Calibre 6185, another Hi-Beat movement with a +1 minute accuracy per month, a horological feat that was later dubbed the “Grand Seiko V.F.A. Standard”. For the record, it was already exceeding chronometer certification at this point. To reach this standard, specialists at Grand Seiko were subjecting the watches to rigorous tests over 6 positions (rather than the standard 5) and were conducting these tests over 15 days to meet a criteria of +2 seconds a day. Two years later, the company launched a new version of the movement, complete with a day-date complication.

While all this was happening, however, Grand Seiko was busying itself creating the 45GS watch, also powered by the 10-Beat (Hi-Beat) movement. This time, the movement was much thinner, featuring a manual winding mechanism. The Caliber 4522 had a calendar display with an instant date, while the Caliber 4520 was a time-only version. The 45GS had an accuracy of 1+ minutes per month, making it a groundbreaking revelation for its time.

But what is it about the Magic Lever that makes the Hi-Beat movement so efficient, you ask? Well, put simply, the 1959 Magic Lever system improves winding system efficiency by shortening the winding period and also increasing the power reserve. With a Magic Lever system, the ratchet wheel rotates in any desired direction no matter which way the oscillating weight is turned, thus greater energy saving is achieved.  

The SBGJ239 watch is powered by the modern Calibre 9S86, which delivers an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day. Its accuracy is integral to the GMT watch’s design, ensuring that when you track this watch in another country, home time and local time run synonymously alongside one another. The Calibre 9S86 operates as a true GMT or a “traveler” GMT watch, enabling you to pull the crown out to the first position and change the hour hand while you’re on the go. It’s the most efficient variant of the GMT since you can quickly switch the main hands to your current local time easily without disrupting the GMT hand.

The Hi-Beat 36000 is the movement responsible for this. It performs at a staggering frequency of 36,000 oscillations per hour, which is equivalent to 10 beats per second (hence the 10-Beat nickname). On top of that, it also gives you a solid 55-hour power reserve for weekends when you might want to alternate it with another favorite.

The Strap

It’s worth mentioning that the brown alligator leather strap of the GS SBGJ239 watch is a little squeaky and will likely take some time to break in, but I don’t mind that. I’ve always said that so long as the leather band on a watch is of good quality, waiting for the leather strap to break in is a small and very insignificant compromise. Sure, you may be aware of the watch’s presence on your wrist for a few weeks. Once the leather becomes more supple, however, and starts to curve to the natural contours of the wrist, this watch should sit like a dream, and you’ll barely remember you’re wearing it. Again, the classic leather band option is less dressy and less sporty than a steel bracelet but I like that it constitutes a more relaxed option for pairing with weekend attire should you want to.

The lug-width is 21mm, so it’s not the most common of sizes to find configurations for. That said, I have a feeling you’ll be happy to settle with the original band for quite some time. The strap comes with a beautifully refined three-fold clasp made from stainless steel and is engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo. I also like how the push button release mechanism is butter-smooth to operate under the fingertips. It’s one less thing to have to fuss over when you want to make a quick watch swap.  The brown alligator leather strap, with a smooth calfskin lining, also has lovely tone-on-tone stitching in a matching chocolate brown color, which I think complements the green nuances of the dial really nicely.

How It Wears

Here’s one of the most important parts of the review to cover. It’s great when a watch ticks all the boxes on paper, but understanding how this watch wears on the wrist is equally as important. Let me start by saying this watch (though it’s a broad and confident size on top) wears smaller than you think. That’s all because of how Grand Seiko has developed this case. If you view the watch laterally, you can see a significant difference between the top and bottom of the case structure. The case of the SBGJ239 bellies out with a sloped case design.

If you have a 6-7 inch wrist, you’re probably going to be maxed out with this watch, though it won’t look out of place by any means. Because of its depth, you might struggle to fit this watch under a shirt sleeve, but, as I said earlier, this watch sits somewhere between a dress watch and a sports watch, so you wouldn’t necessarily be looking to pair this watch with elegant attire on a daily basis.

Pricing:

For an in-house movement (not to mention a Hi-Beat), a hand-finished case, a flawlessly operating GMT function, and quality materials like a leather strap and sapphire crystal – the SBGJ239 is an absolute steal at $6,600. If you want to enquire about the availability of this watch and you’re ready to place an order, don’t forget to drop us a message here at Exquisite Timepieces.

The Takeaway

There are many things to love about the Grand Seiko SBGJ239. Considering the watch has been out since 2020, no model has ever really superseded it on a like-for-like level. The watch boasts a selection of superior materials, a legible GMT function, and a striking two-tone bezel for optimal efficiency.

This is a GMT function that proves incredibly useful for hopping from time zone to time zone, whether that be for business or leisure. GS manages to balance sporty elegance with some really nice dress-like features, making for a timepiece that you can wear pretty much every day, regardless of the different situations you may encounter.

This is a bold watch with an equally bold personality, and I love the use of the deep subdued green dial, paired with the striking red of the GMT hand. Without a doubt, this watch can go from a formal meeting to drinks at the bar without looking out of place, and that’s what a lot of Grand Seiko watches are good for. They make great travel partners, sophisticated business partners, and elegant companions all wrapped into one.