Category: News

What is the world’s most famous dive watch? I don’t have the answer, but I’m certain the Rolex Submariner is somewhere near the top of the list. It’s a model that’s far from just some reliable dive watch – although it’s certainly that too – but a cultural icon and one of the most highly collectible timepieces of all time.   

The Rolex Submariner is not new, having launched back in 1953, so as you’d expect, there’s a plethora of old and new models out there. But if you were to ask me, two of the most iconic models in the Submariner’s lineup are the references 5512 and 5513. 

These vintage classics represent the golden age of Rolex’s dive watches, and while they may look nearly identical at first glance, there’s a lot hiding beneath the surface that sets them apart. 

Both models feature the signature 40mm stainless steel case, crown guards, rotating bezel, and time-only black dials that define the early Submariner aesthetic. They also share the robust acrylic crystals that marked the pre-sapphire era, making them quintessential vintage pieces. 

But the 5512 and 5513 are different in more ways than you might expect. So, if you’re wondering what the differences are between the Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513 and you’re deciding which vintage model to get for yourself, we suggest you keep reading… 

The Rolex Submariner 5512 

The Rolex Submariner 5512 is an important model in the history of the Swiss watchmaker, as it marked a rather major turning point in both the design and functionality of the Submariner collection. Introduced in 1959, the 5512 was the first Submariner to feature crown guards, a bold innovation that set the stage for the modern dive watch as we know it. 

Before the 5512, Submariners lacked protective shoulders around the winding crown, leaving it vulnerable to damage from accidental knocks. By adding crown guards, Rolex not only made the Submariner more durable but also expanded the case size from 38mm to 40mm, giving the watch its iconic proportions.

What makes the 5512 even more fascinating is the evolution of its crown guard design. Early models were fitted with square crown guards, a style Rolex quickly abandoned due to its impracticality and aesthetics. 

Next came the pointed crown guards, which were produced until 1963, when the more familiar rounded crown guards were introduced. These variations, particularly the rare square and pointed crown guards, are highly prized by collectors today. 

The Submariner 5512 was also notable for its technical advancements. Early examples were powered by the Caliber 1530 movement, which was not chronometer-certified. These models also featured dials with only two lines of text indicating the water resistance and the Submariner name. 

However, this changed when Rolex transitioned to the Caliber 1560 and later the Caliber 1570, both chronometer-certified movements. With this upgrade, the dials gained two additional lines of text to indicate the watch’s chronometer status, creating the now-famous “four-line” dial. 

Aesthetically, the 5512 is a quintessential vintage Submariner. Its stainless steel case is robust and functional, while the rotating bezel with a black aluminum insert provides a practical 60-minute scale for divers. 

Early models featured gilt-gloss dials, which were later replaced by matte dials, marking the shift from a more decorative to a more utilitarian look. The luminous markers on the dials were initially made with radium, but Rolex eventually transitioned to tritium for safety reasons. 

The Rolex Submariner 5512 was in production for an impressive two decades, officially ceasing in 1978. Over its lifespan, it remained a watch designed with professional divers in mind but gained popularity far beyond the diving community. Today, its enduring appeal lies in its perfect balance of vintage charm, technical innovation, and historical significance.

The Rolex Submariner 5513 

The Rolex Submariner 5513 was launched a couple of years later, in 1962, as the sibling to the 5512. While the two models appear nearly identical at a glance, the 5513 carved out its own legacy as the non-chronometer-certified version of Rolex’s iconic dive watch. 

This distinction was reflected in its use of the Caliber 1530 and later the Caliber 1520, both of which were simpler, non-chronometer movements. By comparison, the 5512, with its chronometer-certified calibers, bore additional text on its dial proclaiming its superior precision. 

The dial of the 5513 is one of its defining features. Early examples sported the minimalist two-line configuration, emphasizing the Submariner name and depth rating, giving it a clean and understated appearance. 

These early models also featured gilt-gloss dials, a hallmark of the era, and were fitted with pointed crown guards, a design shared with the 5512 of the same period. As production continued, Rolex transitioned to matte black dials with painted hour markers and, later still, glossy black dials with white gold surrounds on the markers. 

In terms of the case and bezel, the 5513 retained the 40mm stainless steel construction that has become synonymous with the Submariner. Its rotating bezel, featuring a black aluminum insert with a 0-60-minute scale, also remained, as did the watch’s acrylic crystal glass and the luminous material on its dial and hands, which shifted from radium in the earliest examples to the safer tritium in later models. 

The 5513’s longevity is another remarkable aspect of its history. While the 5512 ceased production in the late 1970s, the 5513 continued to be manufactured until 1989, making it one of the longest-running Submariner references. 

This extended production period means that collectors can often find a wide range of variations, from early gilt dials with rare features to later models with more contemporary design elements. 

The Rolex Submariner 5513 is also well known for its cultural significance. It was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in Dr. No and Goldfinger, cementing its status as an icon not just of horology but also of popular culture. This association with 007 has only added to its allure among vintage watch enthusiasts.

Rolex Submariner 5512 vs 5513 – How to Choose 

When deciding between the Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513, you’re faced with two iconic models that look incredibly similar at first glance. 

However, as we’ve touched on already, there are some key differences under the surface that can guide your choice. So what exactly sets these two vintage Submariners apart, and which one will suit your needs best? 

Movement: Chronometer vs. Non-Chronometer

The most significant difference between the Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513 lies in their movements. The Submariner 5512 was fitted with chronometer-certified movements, starting with the Caliber 1560 and later the Caliber 1570. 

These movements met Rolex’s exacting standards for precision, which is why the 5512 dials bear the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” text, also known as the “four-line dial.”

In contrast, the 5513 was designed as a simpler, non-chronometer version. It began with the Caliber 1530 and transitioned to the Caliber 1520. Its dials feature only two lines of text, giving it a cleaner and more understated appearance. 

While the differences in performance may not be noticeable to a casual wearer, collectors often place a premium on the chronometer status of the 5512.

Rarity and Availability

The production periods of these models also contribute to their differences in rarity. The 5512 was introduced in 1959 and discontinued in 1978, giving it a relatively shorter production run. This means fewer 5512 examples exist in the market today, making it a rarer and more exclusive choice.

The 5513, on the other hand, enjoyed a much longer production run from 1962 to 1989. As a result, it’s often easier to find a 5513 in various conditions and configurations, offering more options for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Aesthetics and Design

Both the Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513 share the classic 40mm stainless steel case, rotating bezel with a black aluminum insert, and vintage acrylic crystal. Early examples of both models feature gilt-gloss dials and pointed crown guards, while later iterations transitioned to matte dials with painted markers and, eventually, glossy dials with white gold surrounds.

The main visual difference lies in the dial text: the 5512’s four-line dial versus the 5513’s simpler two-line configuration. This distinction makes the 5512 feel slightly more technical and prestigious, while the 5513 offers a cleaner, minimalist aesthetic that other collectors will prefer.

Price Considerations

The chronometer-certified 5512 has historically been more expensive than the 5513 owing to its higher level of technical achievement and shorter production run. However, the price gap can also depend on the specific model variation, condition, and rarity. 

Early examples with gilt dials or unique features like square crown guards can command significant premiums, regardless of the reference.

For the budget-conscious collector, the 5513 may present a more accessible entry point into the world of vintage Submariners. Its longer production run means there’s a greater variety of options, from early gilt-dial models to later glossy-dial versions.

Which One Should You Pick?

Deciding between the Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513 ultimately comes down to your personal priorities as a collector or enthusiast. 

Each model offers unique qualities that cater to different tastes and preferences, making this choice a matter of what you value most in a vintage watch.

If exclusivity and technical prowess top your list, the Rolex Submariner 5512 is going to be the better fit for you. With its chronometer-certified movement and the coveted “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” text on its dial, the 5512 stands as a testament to Rolex’s precision and attention to detail. 

Its shorter production run also adds an element of rarity, making it a sought-after piece for collectors who prioritize historical significance and exclusivity.

On the other hand, the Rolex Submariner 5513 is ideal for those drawn to simplicity and timeless design. Its two-line dial offers a clean, minimalist aesthetic that has a charm all of its own. 

It also had a longer production run spanning nearly three decades, so it provides plenty more options to collectors, so you have more chance of choosing from early gilt-dial examples to later glossy-dial variations.

Conclusion

Choosing between the Rolex Submariner 5512 and 5513 is a decision that reflects your unique priorities as a collector or enthusiast. Each model holds its own special place in the history of Rolex, offering distinct characteristics that make them both highly desirable. 

The 5512 stands out with its chronometer-certified movement and rarity, while the 5513 captures attention with its clean, timeless design and wide-ranging options.

Owning either reference is a privilege, as both showcase the unparalleled craftsmanship and enduring appeal that has defined Rolex for generations. 

For many, myself included, these two references mark the end of the classic vintage Submariner era. Being able to glance at your wrist and be reminded of this—especially when so many others are choosing modern-day Rolex Submariners—is truly a special experience.

With the insights shared here, you’re now equipped to choose the Rolex Submariner that aligns best with your personal tastes and values. The 5512 and 5513 each bring something unique to the table, and either one would make a remarkable addition to any collection

When it comes to robust, utilitarian tool watches, there is no shortage of models to choose from. But two that often stand out are the Rolex Explorer and the Tudor Ranger. Both are no-nonsense watches built for the outdoors, boasting super-legible dials, rugged construction, and an undeniable air of capability. 

In fact, put them side by side, and it’s easy to get them confused, at least at first glance. But don’t be fooled; while they may look like close cousins (and they are since Rolex and Tudor share the same parent company), these two timepieces come with a lot of differences. 

Rolex, the elder sibling, has a global reputation. It’s the brand synonymous with luxury and achievement, and the Explorer is its understated nod to those who seek adventure without sacrificing style. 

Tudor, on the other hand, is Rolex’s more accessible sibling, known for offering high-quality watches at a more bank-friendly price point. The Ranger reflects that ethos perfectly, delivering the same utilitarian spirit but with a slightly different approach to design.

So, which one should you pick? In this guide, we’ll compare the Tudor Explorer and the Rolex Ranger in detail, highlighting their similarities, differences, and the reasons why each could be the perfect fit for your next adventure.

The Tudor Ranger Collection 

The history of the Tudor Ranger is a little puzzling as there are many parts of the story to consider, but that’s what makes this watch all the more fascinating. The Tudor Ranger we know today was bought back in 2022 to mark 70 years since the British North Greenland Expedition, but its name actually goes way further back. 

Hans Wilsdorf, the man behind Rolex and Tudor, registered it in 1929, but for decades, “Ranger” wasn’t a specific model. Instead, it was more of an idea, like a way to describe a watch that was built for adventure. 

The 1950s were when things started to click into place. Several Tudor watches accompanied the British North Greenland Expedition, a grueling trek across the Arctic. 

The expedition officially used the Oyster Prince, but its rugged, stripped-back design influenced what would eventually become the Ranger. Rather than being a one-to-one replica, the Ranger captured the spirit of reliability in extreme conditions. 

By the 1960s, the Tudor Ranger was finally standing on its own, with a clear identity inclusive of bold, luminous numerals, tough cases, and those signature arrow hands. 

Over the years, it adapted to the times and added features like date windows and improved technology but always stayed true to its utilitarian roots. Fast forward to today, and the Ranger still carries that adventurous vibe, blending old-school practicality with modern tech. 

The Tudor Ranger is a field watch that thrives on simplicity and functionality, making it the perfect companion for adventurers and minimalists alike. 

First introduced in the 1960s, it was created with a clear purpose: to be a tough, reliable timepiece that could withstand demanding environments while remaining easy to use. Decades later, the modern Tudor Ranger stays true to that original vision, combining rugged durability with thoughtful design. 

At the heart of the Ranger is the Tudor Calibre MT5402, a COSC-certified automatic movement with an impressive 70-hour power reserve. This movement ensures the watch is as dependable as it is precise, whether you’re trekking through wilderness or simply going about your daily routine. 

The 39mm stainless steel case also strikes a perfect balance between wearability and durability, with a domed sapphire crystal that resists scratches while adding a subtle vintage touch. 

At the moment, the Tudor Ranger only comes with a matte black dial, which feels like the sensible choice, as it keeps things clean and legible. The dial is largely defined by the bold Arabic numerals marking 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock and the bold and sharp arrow-shaped hands, including a red-tipped seconds hand that stands out beautifully against the black backdrop. 

The modern-day Tudor Ranger collection is relatively small, but that attests largely to its recent release in 2022. It also means that if you’re someone easily overwhelmed with choice, the Tudor Ranger family is going to make things easier for you. 

Currently, the collection features just three models, each with the same core features: a 39mm stainless steel case that’s durable yet wearable, a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal, and a matte black dial with bold Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock for excellent legibility. 

All three models are also powered by the same reliable Tudor Calibre MT5402, a COSC-certified automatic movement boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. 

The options differ in the straps, giving each watch its own distinct personality. For those who appreciate a classic look, there’s the model with a three-row stainless steel bracelet, which combines toughness with refined style. The second option features a hybrid rubber and leather strap, perfect for those who want a comfortable, sporty vibe that can easily handle active days. 

And then there’s my personal favorite, the Tudor Ranger with a fabric strap. This one features a striped design in red, khaki green, and beige, adding a touch of vintage charm that feels effortlessly outdoorsy.

The Rolex Explorer Collection 

The Rolex Explorer holds a special place in watchmaking history as it is widely known as one of the best-known explorer watches out there. Introduced in 1953, it was a response to the first successful ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. 

While there’s debate over whether an Explorer or its “Pre-Explorer” predecessor made it to the summit, what’s certain is that Rolex used the expedition as the foundation for a watch designed to conquer extremes. 

The Everest expedition was obviously a huge example of human triumph, but it was also a showcase of Rolex’s ground-breaking engineering. For years, the brand had been equipping explorers with its Oyster Perpetual models to test in the harshest environments. 

The feedback gained from these expeditions directly influenced the development of the Explorer, resulting in a watch that could endure punishing conditions while delivering unmatched reliability. 

The connection between the Explorer and exploration has become intrinsic to its identity, with the watch being worn by adventurers tackling everything from icy peaks to scorching deserts. 

And because of that, the Rolex Explorer’s story has grown into something of a legend. It was one of the models that marked a turning point for Rolex, solidifying the brand as a leader in crafting timepieces that combine precision, durability, and purpose. 

The Rolex Explorer is celebrated for its refined simplicity and purposeful design, elements that have remained central to its character since its debut. While the watch has evolved over the decades, it has stayed true to its origins as a reliable tool watch built for extreme conditions. 

Introduced in 1953, the Explorer’s legacy began with its rugged Oyster case, crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel. This material ensures durability and corrosion resistance, while the hermetically sealed Oyster case guarantees water resistance up to 100 meters. 

The case’s smooth bezel and balanced proportions make it not only robust but also visually elegant, embodying Rolex’s commitment to merging form with function. 

A hallmark of the Explorer is its iconic black dial with 3, 6, and 9 numerals and cathedral hands. It’s a design built to prioritize legibility in all environments. Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight luminescent material further enhances visibility, offering a brilliant white hue in daylight and an intense blue glow in darkness. 

Complementing the Explorer’s classic design is the advanced engineering behind its movement. Modern models are powered by the Rolex Calibre 3230, a self-winding mechanical movement with a blue Parachrom hairspring, resistant to shocks, temperature fluctuations, and magnetic fields. The patented Chronergy escapement ensures energy efficiency, contributing to a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 

The Explorer II, an extension of the collection, adds a practical twist for globetrotters and adventurers. Featuring a 24-hour bezel and a brightly colored GMT hand, it allows wearers to track two timezones simultaneously. 

It also swaps out the iconic Arabic numerals for rounded indices and adds a magnified date window at 3 o’clock. This additional functionality enhances the Explorer’s versatility while retaining the rugged spirit of the original. 

The modern Rolex Explorer collection offers much more variety compared to the Tudor Ranger, making it easier to find a piece that suits your personal style and needs. The Explorer 40 and Explorer 36, both in Oystersteel, bring the rugged durability and unmistakable elegance Rolex is known for. 

The 40mm size offers a slightly larger presence, while the 36mm version has a more classic, understated feel which will no doubt attract the wrists of all genders. Both versions feature the iconic black dial with large Arabic numerals, ensuring legibility in any condition. 

For those drawn to a touch of luxury, the Explorer 36 in Oystersteel and yellow gold stands out with its two-tone design. Yellow gold accents on the bezel, crown, and inner bracelet links give it a refined look while still staying true to the Explorer’s functional roots. It’s the perfect blend of adventure-ready and elegant. 

Then, there’s the Explorer II, which adds an extra level of versatility. At 42mm, it’s slightly larger, offering a more substantial feel on the wrist. The 24-hour bezel and GMT hand also provide easy tracking of a second timezone, so it’s an ideal one for travelers. The Explorer II comes with two dial options, classic black or the striking white “Polar” dial, which adds a fresh, bold look to the collection.

Tudor Ranger vs Rolex Explorer – How to Choose 

When comparing the Rolex Explorer and the Tudor Ranger, the most obvious distinction lies in the number of options available. The Tudor Ranger collection is quite limited, with just three models currently on offer, all of which share a similar core design and differ primarily in their strap choices. 

On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer offers more variety, with several case sizes, materials, and even complications to choose from. Although the Explorer collection is still modest compared to some other luxury watchmakers’ vast portfolios, it definitely provides a wider selection than the Tudor Ranger.

Case Sizes and Design

The Rolex Explorer I comes in two case sizes: the Explorer 40 and the Explorer 36, allowing for a more customizable fit depending on wrist size and personal preference. The 40mm size is ideal for those who like a bit more presence on the wrist, while the 36mm version caters to those who prefer a more classic, understated look. 

There’s also a Rolex Explorer II model with a 42mm case, adding even more options in terms of size and presence. In contrast, the Tudor Ranger sticks to a single case size of 39mm, making it more consistent but less versatile for those who like to choose between sizes.

The design of both watches shares some similarities, particularly their clear, legible dials with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. However, the Rolex Explorer typically has a slightly more refined aesthetic, with its signature Mercedes hands and high-end finishes that exude luxury. The Tudor Ranger has a more utilitarian feel, with a more straightforward dial layout and the trademark snowflake hands.

Materials and Durability

The Rolex Explorer uses higher-end materials throughout, such as Oystersteel (a proprietary stainless steel developed by Rolex) and yellow gold options. The Explorer’s case is designed to withstand the harshest environments, and the materials used reflect its robust, luxury tool watch status. 

The use of Chromalight on the dial for improved luminescence is another luxury touch that differentiates it from the Tudor Ranger. Tudor, while owned by Rolex, opts for a more accessible range of materials. The Tudor Ranger uses stainless steel and has a simpler, but still durable, design.

Movement Technology

When it comes to the movements, the Rolex Explorer takes the lead with its sophisticated in-house calibers, such as the Caliber 3230 in the latest models. 

This self-winding movement is renowned for its precision and durability, featuring innovations like the Chronergy escapement for improved efficiency and Parachrom hairspring for resistance to magnetic fields and shocks. It also boasts a power reserve of up to 70 hours, ensuring reliability for long periods without winding.

In comparison, the Tudor Ranger uses the Tudor Caliber MT5402 movement, which is also an in-house automatic movement but one not quite as advanced as Rolex’s latest technology. 

While still offering a respectable 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification for accuracy, it lacks some of the features found in Rolex’s movements, like the proprietary Parachrom hairspring and enhanced escapement.

Complications and Features

The Rolex Explorer II adds an extra layer of functionality to the Explorer collection with its 24-hour bezel and GMT hand, allowing wearers to track two time zones at once. This makes the Explorer II an optimal choice for frequent travelers or those who like having additional functionality in their watches. The Tudor Ranger, on the other hand, stays true to its minimalist design focusing purely on telling the time.

Price and Availability

One of the most significant differences between the Rolex Explorer and the Tudor Ranger is the price. The Tudor Ranger is far more affordable, retailing from around $3,150, making it a great entry point for those who want a robust tool watch without breaking the bank. 

Meanwhile, the Rolex Explorer starts at $7,350 for the base model and can climb as high as $11,000 for versions made from solid gold.

Availability also plays a major role. Tudor Rangers are relatively easier to obtain, with less of a wait time, as they are produced in higher quantities. In contrast, the Rolex Explorer often has long waiting lists, especially for brand-new pieces from authorized dealers. This adds an element of scarcity to the Explorer, which, for some buyers, may make it more desirable.

Which One is Right for You?

Deciding between the Tudor Ranger and the Rolex Explorer ultimately comes down to what you prioritize in a watch. If you value affordability and accessibility, the Tudor Ranger might be the ideal choice. 

Its minimalist design, simplicity, and rugged build make it perfect for those who want a solid, no-nonsense tool watch that doesn’t have the complications or luxury materials of more expensive options.

On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer is for those who appreciate craftsmanship, luxury materials, and the legacy linked to Rolex. It also offers a more versatile collection with different case sizes, materials, and even complications in the Explorer II model, so it’s going to be best suited to those that have smaller wrists, more particular tastes, or just a love of options.

Conclusion

Both the Rolex Explorer and the Tudor Ranger are fantastic tool watches and easily two of the best on the market.  The Rolex Explorer stands out for its superior materials, advanced technology, and wider range of options, making it a top choice for those seeking a luxurious, high-performance explorer’s watch.

Nevertheless, the Tudor Ranger is a fantastic alternative for those who prioritize affordability and accessibility without compromising on durability and design.

While it may lack the refined features of the Rolex, it still offers a rugged, dependable experience, making it the better choice for anyone looking for a great tool watch at a more approachable price.

Let’s be honest: when someone says “Tudor,” chances are the first watch that comes to mind is the Black Bay. It’s the Swiss watchmaker’s flagship collection and the watch that put Tudor back on the map when it launched in 2012. 

It’s got that vintage charm, the nods to Tudor’s heritage, and oozes versatility. But while the Black Bay might be soaking up most of the spotlight, there’s another Tudor timepiece that deserves just as much love: the Pelagos. 

Now, don’t get me wrong, the Tudor Pelagos is not here to play second fiddle, it’s here to carve out its own identity. Still a dive watch, the Pelagos is a modern tool-watch powerhouse with impressive functionality and design that varies from its Black Bay sibling. 

Where the Black Bay leans into its retro-inspired charm, the Pelagos takes a modern approach with a lightweight titanium case and a serious water-resistant rating. 

What’s great about Tudor today, compared to, say, a decade ago, is how spoiled for choice we are. Both the Black Bay and Pelgaos collections have plenty of references for us to choose from. S,o without further ado, let’s compare these two dive watches and discuss the many options on the table.

The Tudor Pelagos Collection

When Tudor introduced the Pelagos alongside the Black Bay at Baselworld 2012, it marked a turning point for the brand. Tudor was on the brink of its grand re-entry after nearly a decade-long hiatus, and the release of these two dive watches underscored the company’s resurgence. 

Over the years, the Black Bay has become Tudor’s flagship, offering a wide variety of models to suit different tastes. In contrast, the Pelagos has followed a more focused path, staying true to its roots as a no-nonsense tool watch with only a handful of updates. 

The Pelagos, named after the Greek word for “open seas,” debuted as Tudor’s most technical dive watch. The first model, the Pelagos 25500TN, which launched in 2012, featured a 42mm titanium case, a helium escape valve at 9 o’clock, and a ceramic bezel. These specs made it a serious contender for professional divers. It was originally powered by an ETA-based automatic movement as at this point, Tudor still hadn’t dipped their toes into the in-house movement game. 

In 2015, the Pelagos received a significant upgrade with the introduction of the 25600TN (black) and 25600TB (blue) models. These watches were equipped with Tudor’s new in-house MT5612 movement, which added a “Chronometer Officially Certified” designation to the dial.

This evolution emphasized Tudor’s shift toward independence in watchmaking while reinforcing the Pelagos as a serious diving instrument. 

Another notable addition came in 2016 with the Pelagos LHD (Left Hand Drive). Inspired by vintage Tudor Submariners made for the French Navy, this model flipped the crown to the left side, catering to left-handed divers.

The LHD also introduced unique color accents and a slightly more stylized aesthetic, giving it a distinct identity within the collection. 

At its core, the Tudor Pelagos is built for performance. Its lightweight titanium case ensures comfort even at 42mm, while its 500-meter water resistance and helium escape valve make it suitable for saturation diving. 

The ceramic bezel is luminous and durable, perfect for low-light underwater conditions. The watch also features a spring-loaded clasp that automatically adjusts for pressure changes during dives. The latter is a really clever innovation rarely seen elsewhere. 

Today, the Pelagos collection offers several variations to suit different preferences while maintaining its tool-watch DNA: 

• Classic Pelagos (42mm): The classic and original Pelagos is currently available in black or blue dial and bezel options, paired with a 42mm titanium case and bracelet. Its ceramic rotating bezel, robust build, and 500-meter water resistance make it a go-to for divers who demand reliability.
• Pelagos 39: Released as a smaller alternative, the Pelagos 39 offers a sleeker and more wearable design while retaining many of the core features of its larger sibling. It’s perfect for those who want the Pelagos’ functionality in a more compact package. 
• Pelagos LHD: The Left Hand Drive (LHD) variant stands out with its left-side crown and vintage-inspired styling. It retains the same impressive specs as the classic models, including the titanium case and ceramic bezel, while adding a unique touch of vintage character. 
• Pelagos FXD: The FXD sub-collection takes the Pelagos’ utility to the next level. Designed for underwater navigation, the FXD features fixed strap bars for enhanced durability, a countdown bezel for mission timing, and a thinner, darker-toned titanium case. It is also exclusively paired with fabric straps, emphasizing its practical, military-inspired aesthetic.

The Black Bay Collection 

When someone mentions Tudor, chances are the Black Bay is the model that comes to mind. It’s Tudor’s flagship collection for a reason, seamlessly blending vintage inspiration with modern reliability and offering a staggering variety of options to suit just about anyone. While the Pelagos is a serious tool watch built for deep-sea adventures, the Black Bay is where I feel Tudor lets their creativity shine.

When Tudor introduced the Black Bay in 2012, the collection felt almost like a love letter to the brand’s storied history in dive watches. Drawing inspiration from vintage Tudor models, the Black Bay design is an amalgamation of some of the most iconic features from Tudor’s past.

The case shape, dial design, and domed crystal echo the 1954 Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922, while the oversized crown silhouette was inspired by the 1958 Submariner ref. 7924, nicknamed the “Big Crown.” And, of course, the bold and angular “Snowflake” hands came straight from the 1970s Tudor Submariners used by the French Navy.

The first Black Bay reference, the 79220, debuted with a distinctive burgundy bezel. It was quickly followed by models with blue and black bezels, cementing the Black Bay as a versatile and instantly recognizable dive watch. 

These early models were powered by ETA movements, a reliable workhorse in the watch world. However, in 2016, Tudor replaced the ETA-powered references with in-house movements, elevating the collection further with improved performance and precision.

Since there are so many Tudor Black Bay models in the company’s collection, it’s hard to narrow down the key features. There are a variety of case sizes, dial colors, movements, complications, and strap configurations from which to choose. But they all have a few things in common, such as domed sapphire crystal glass, unidirectional aluminum dive bezels, and a 200-meter water-resistant rating.

Where the Pelagos focuses on being a specialized tool watch, the Black Bay takes a different approach. Tudor has expanded the Black Bay into a sprawling collection with numerous configurations, case sizes, and materials. Here’s a breakdown of what’s available: 

• Black Bay Fifty-Eight: A tribute to the classic Tudor divers of the 1950s, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight features a compact 39mm steel case, no-date dials, and options for black or blue colorways with aluminum bezels. 
• Black Bay Steel: A traditional diver with a 41mm case, steel bezel, and date window. 
• Black Bay S&G (Steel & Gold): These models mix steel and gold for a luxurious two-tone look, available with date windows and a variety of dial options. 
• Black Bay Bronze: With its 43mm bronze case and no-date dial, this watch develops a unique patina over time, offering a rugged and vintage-inspired aesthetic. 
• Black Bay P01: A quirky and bold design inspired by a 1960s Tudor prototype, the P01 features a 42mm case, a locking bezel mechanism, and a date window. 
• Black Bay Chrono: A sporty chronograph with a 41mm case, bi-compax dials, a steel tachymeter bezel, and date function. There’s even a vibrant turquoise “Flamingo Blue” version and a bright pink sister model for those who want to make a statement. 
• Black Bay Chrono S&G: This two-tone variant of the chronograph offers a luxurious edge, with a mix of steel and gold paired with an aluminum tachymeter bezel. 
• Black Bay GMT: Featuring a 41mm case and a striking two-tone aluminum bezel, the Black Bay GMT offers a playful twist on the iconic “Pepsi” bezel from Rolex with options in burgundy and navy or brown and black. It also includes a 24-hour hand and a date window for frequent travelers. 
• Black Bay 32/36/41: These are the Tudor Black Bay watches for the every day, featuring smooth bezels, cases in steel or two-tone configurations, and three case sizes to suit any wrist.

Tudor Pelagos vs Black Bay – How to Choose

It’s clear Tudor has created these two distinct dive watch collections to cater to the different needs and wants of its customer base. While both are celebrated for their exceptional craftsmanship and robust performance, they diverge in aesthetics, functionality, and audience appeal. Below, we’ll break down the key differences between the Tudor Black Bay and Pelagos across various categories, helping you decide which one aligns best with your style and requirements.

Water Resistance

One of the most significant differences between the Tudor Black Bay and Pelagos lies in their water resistance. The Pelagos is engineered for serious underwater adventures, offering an impressive 500 meters of water resistance. Its helium escape valve, positioned on the case, is a feature specifically designed for saturation divers who operate at extreme depths.

In contrast, the Black Bay, while still a capable dive watch, is rated to 200 meters. This level of water resistance is still perfectly adequate for recreational diving and everyday wear but doesn’t reach the technical depths of the Pelagos.

Case Materials

The Pelagos is a pioneer within the Tudor lineup as the brand’s first dive watch to be crafted from titanium. This material is prized for being lightweight, strong, and resistant to corrosion, making it an ideal choice for extended wear during demanding activities. Its brushed finish gives the watch a distinctly utilitarian appearance that underscores its tool-watch heritage.

The Black Bay collection, on the other hand, embraces variety in its case materials. While stainless steel is the cornerstone, the lineup also includes options in bronze, two-tone steel and gold, and PVD-coated steel. These choices make the Black Bay far more diverse in style, catering to both traditionalists and those who want something with a touch of luxury.

Straps and Bracelets

The strap options reflect the different personalities of the two collections. The Tudor Pelagos comes on a titanium bracelet with a clever spring-loaded clasp that automatically adjusts to changes in wrist size caused by pressure variations underwater. Additionally, the FXD models in the Pelagos line are exclusively paired with fabric straps, which align with their stripped-down, functional aesthetic.

The Tudor Black Bay offers significantly more variety in this department. Whether you prefer the classic feel of a stainless steel bracelet, the warmth of a leather strap, or the practicality of rubber, the Black Bay lineup has a configuration to suit your preferences. This range enhances its versatility, making it a watch that transitions effortlessly between casual and formal settings.

Aesthetic Differences

Visually, the Tudor Pelagos leans into minimalism and practicality. Its flat sapphire crystal ensures maximum legibility, while the matte ceramic bezel and bold Snowflake hands emphasize readability and functionality over decorative elements. The overall design is stark and no-nonsense, a clear reflection of its purpose as a professional-grade dive watch.

The Tudor Black Bay, however, takes a different approach. Its domed sapphire crystal glass, polished and brushed finishes, and aluminum bezel inserts give it a vintage-inspired charm that pays homage to Tudor’s dive watch heritage. While the Snowflake hands are a common feature between the two collections, they feel more decorative in the Black Bay and more of a way to complement the retro aesthetic, while also maintaining clear legibility.

Complications and Features

The Tudor Pelagos is straightforward in its approach, offering time and date functions that prioritize reliability and durability. Its design and features are tailored for professional use, and it avoids any unnecessary complications that could detract from its tool-watch identity.

The Tudor Black Bay collection, by contrast, offers a broader range of complications and features. From the practical GMT models with their dual time zone functionality to the sporty chronographs with their tachymeter bezels and timing subdials, the Black Bay lineup is designed to cater to a variety of needs. This diversity makes it a more versatile choice for those who want a watch that can do more than just dive.

Price

The Tudor Black Bay collection retails from $3,825, making it an accessible entry point into Tudor’s world of high-quality dive watches. With its variety of complications, materials, and styles, the Black Bay offers excellent value for its price, particularly for those seeking a versatile timepiece that can adapt to different occasions.

Meanwhile, the Tudor Pelagos, starting at $4,400, reflects its position as a more specialized watch. Its titanium construction, helium escape valve, and 500-meter water resistance justify this slightly higher price point, appealing to those who need a tool watch capable of withstanding extreme conditions.

Should You Choose the Tudor Black Bay or the Tudor Pelagos?

The Black Bay is an excellent choice for individuals who appreciate vintage-inspired design and a versatile timepiece. Its extensive range of sizes, materials, and complications makes it suitable for anyone, whether you’re looking for a watch to wear with a suit, on a casual day out, or during a dive. This collection is also ideal for those who value style and variety, as it offers something for almost every preference.

The Pelagos, on the other hand, is designed for the serious adventurer or diver. Its robust titanium construction, practical features, and minimalist design make it a reliable companion in extreme environments. It’s also best suited to someone who prioritizes functionality over aesthetics, someone that needs a watch that can handle demanding conditions and isn’t overly fussed by luxurious case metals like gold and bronze.

Conclusion 

Choosing between the Black Bay and Pelagos ultimately comes down to your priorities. If you’re after a stylish and versatile watch with a nod to Tudor’s rich history, the Black Bay offers endless options. Its broad range of sizes, materials, and complications ensures there’s a piece for every occasion, whether you need a daily companion, a sophisticated accessory, or a functional tool for moderate diving adventures. 

However, if you want a no-compromise tool watch built for performance, the Pelagos delivers unmatched durability and practicality. With its technical specifications, lightweight titanium construction, and features designed explicitly for professional divers, it’s a watch that excels in the harshest environments without sacrificing wearability or reliability.

Truthfully though, both collections are immaculate, and I have very little negative to say about either model. Each reflects Tudor’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation, offering value that far exceeds their price points. Whichever watch you choose, you’ll not be disappointed.

Although there are other nations that make great watches, Switzerland has long held the title of the land of fine horology. Brands such as Patek Phillipe, Rolex, and Omega are legendary. However, there are lesser-known and lower-priced brands that are well worth checking out, especially for beginning watch collectors. 

Two of these brands are Tissot and Movado. Each has a long and distinguished history and produces timepieces that are accurate, reliable, and beautiful. If you are looking for your first luxury watch, or maybe something nice to add to your collection, these brands should be considered. Let’s take a closer look at Tissot vs Movado.

Brand Heritage

Both Tissot and Movado were founded in the 19th Century and thus have more than 100 years of experience in crafting their signature styles. Each brand has traveled its own path, but both are worthy of consideration. 

Tissot

In 1853, Charles-Felicien Tissot founded the company along with his son, Charles-Emile Tissot. It should be noted that the brand is not at all connected to Mathey-Tissot. Apparently, in Switzerland, the name, “Tissot” is like “Smith” in the U.S.

The father and son team began making pocket watches in their home in Le Locle, including the world’s first mass-produced pocket watch and the first that tracked two time zones. Tissot’s timepieces sold very well in the Russian Empire and amongst members of the Tsar’s courts, prompting the younger Tissot to move to Moscow in 1885. 

The brand saw continued success as it began crafting wristwatches. When the worldwide economy collapsed in 1929, Tissot formed a partnership with Omega to ensure its survival. The brand thrived and became the official timekeeper for Swiss ski races in 1938 and in 1957 for the Davis Cup. In 1930, Tissot became one of the first brands to make anti-magnetic watches. 

Tissot was an innovator in the use of other materials as well, creating the first plastic watch in 1971, the first mother of pearl in 1987, and the first wood watch the following year. Today, Tissot is part of the Swatch Group, a parent company that includes Omega, Breguet, Hamilton, Longines, Blancpain, and Tissot, among many other brands. Tissot is one of the Swatch Group’s mid-range market brands. 

Movado

A member of a Jewish watchmaking family, Achille Ditesheim founded the company that would become Movado in 1881 La-Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Ditesheim partnered with his brothers, Leopold and Issidore, and called the company, L.A. & I. Ditesheim. They built one of the first modern factories in the area and over the next 20 years, the company grew to employ 80 workers.

By 1905, Ditesheim’s business had 150 employees and changed its name to Movado, which is Esperanto for “always in motion”.

Over the next several decades Movado created innovative watches such as the Polyplan, which featured a curved case to match the contours of the wrist, the Soldier’s Watch with a pierced metal cover for protecting the crystal in battle, and the Acevatic, the brand’s first water-resistant case with a screw-down crown.

In 1945, Movado released the minimalist Museum dial, which would become an iconic symbol that instantly identifies a timepiece as a Movado. Working together with Zenith, the brand introduced the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement.

This innovation had a huge impact on horology and even Rolex used the movement in their Daytonas and used it as the basis for creating their own chronograph movement. 

The North American Watch Company purchased Movado in 1983. Although the brand’s corporate HQ is in the U.S., the timepieces are still manufactured in Switzerland and live up to that nation’s high standard of quality.

Movado continues to make reliable, accurate, and distinctive timepieces at a lower price point than many other luxury brands. The Heritage Collection offers classic designs. Along with the modern models, Movado offers a wide variety of stylish watches. 

Model Variety

Both Tissot and Movado have several collections that feature a nice variety of timepieces from dress watches, to casual, and sport watches like divers and chronographs.

Tissot

Tissot offers a large number of watches on leather straps and stainless steel bracelets. Cases and bracelets are available in gold-colored stainless steel as well as plain stainless. There are also two-toned stainless and gold-colored bracelets. 

Dials are available in many colors including black, white, blue, Tiffany blue, gold, green, and ivory. Both quartz and automatic movements are offered in classic dress styles, sport watches, and more casual timepieces.

Among the most popular models are the Powermatic 80, PRX, PR100, and Gentlemen’s watches. Tool watches include the Supersport Chrono series of chronographs and the Seastar Dive watches. The Seastars have a generous water resistance of 300 meters, putting them on a par with much more expensive dive watches.

Tissot also has several higher-end models in its Le Locle collection that use 18K gold and rose gold in the cases and bracelets. These have higher prices but are still below $2,000. Tissot has models for both men and women and many have a date complication.

Movado

Movado is best known for its iconic Museum Classic, so named because the original Museum dial, released in 1947, was put on display at New York’s Museum of Modern Art as a permanent exhibit in 1960. It was the first watch dial to be so honored.

Designed to mimic a sundial, the Museum Classic is a plain black dial with a single precious stone set at 12 o’clock to represent the sun. It’s a bold design that stands out. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but the Museum Collection is perhaps the most popular of Movado’s offerings. 

The Museum Sport Collection uses the classic Museum template to create a series of chronographs. The dot at 12 combines with a variety of dial colors, bezels, straps, and bracelets to create a collection of unique and inspired chronographs.

The Movado Bold Collection also shows artistic flair. These models have a dot at 12 o’clock but some have indices like a standard timepiece.

There are dressy models on leather straps and metal bracelets as well as casual models with black-colored stainless steel cases and bracelets. The bold collection includes chronographs and a wide variety of dial colors and textures. 

The Movado Face Collection features the trademark minimalist dial in bold, playful colors for a variety of fun casual watches. Leather straps, stainless steel, and mesh bracelets offer a variety of options to suit fashion-forward horology fans. The Face watches are truly unique timepieces that can make a statement about their wearer.

No watch brand can be a player in the industry without divers and Movado offers those. The SE Diver Automatic comes with a blue or black dial and unidirectional rotating bezel, the signature dot at 12, and a stainless steel case and bracelet.

These timepieces have a respectable 200 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and date complication.

Design

Design philosophies differ greatly between the two brands and there is zero chance you would ever confuse a Tissot for a Movado or vice versa. 

Tissot

Tissot timepieces are designed in line with classic watch styles in mind. This is not surprising, given the brand’s longtime connection with Omega. Sword hands, three and five-link bracelets, and stitched leather straps are typical on most models as are dot and baton indices and Roman numerals. 

Tissot does offer a variety of standard dial colors and textures such as the check pattern on the Powermatic series. There are models that are a bit bold and feature square cases and skeleton dials, but for the most part, Tissot sticks with a more conservative design.

Movado

Movado’s design philosophy is unique in the world of horology and has been linked for decades with the style of modern art. The Museum dial is at the forefront of this design and influences pretty much every model in the catalog.

Movado watches run the gamut from classy to wildly playful. They’re not for everyone but their fans are loyal to the brand and they have several celebrity ambassadors. Movado lives up to its name as it is always moving forward.

Build Quality & Materials

Beng brands on the more affordable side, the materials used and finishing of Tissot and Movado timepieces are not on the level of high luxury brands. Nevertheless, both companies use quality materials and are built by experienced watchmakers emphasizing reliability and durability. 

Tissot

Most Tissot models have stainless steel cases and the brand uses industry-standard 316L stainless on its cases and bracelets. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating cover dials and exhibition case backs.

Some models in the higher-end Le Locle collection use 18K yellow or rose gold. There are the Gentlemen models that use lighter weight and durable titanium.

Tissot uses the combination of brushed and polished surfaces prevalent in the industry on its cases, indices, and hands. It’s a nice finish but again, not on the level of a luxury watch. Hold a Tissot side-by-side with an Omega and the difference is obvious. Some models are coated in a gold or black color.

Many models use Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands for excellent visibility in darkness. Straps are not the highest quality leather, but genuine leather which is a fairly durable and attractive option. 

Movado

Movado too, is not on the level of luxury brands but does use similar quality materials in its timepieces. Stainless steel cases, bracelets, and hands are made with the same 316L that Tissot uses and some models have 18K gold cases.

Unlike Tissot, Movado uses some less common materials in some of its watches, particularly those in the Face Collection.

Acrylic is used in cases and on the hands of these models for a casual and modish look. Personally, I think they look cheap, kind of like a Swatch, but to each their own.

Some of the Museum Classic watches have cases covered in gold PVD. They have a blingy look without being too expensive. Like Tissot, Movado uses scratch-resistant sapphire coated with an anti-reflective and Super-LumiNova.

Some of the higher-end models use semi-precious stones for the dot at 12 o’clock. Bracelets are stainless steel and straps use genuine leather, ceramic, or silicone. Stainless steel surfaces are brushed and polished like Tissot and do like nice.

They are certainly not anywhere near the Zaratsu polishing of Grand Seiko, but the price point is significantly lower.

Face models are just brushed and most are coated in a color coordinated to the dial and strap. They certainly make a statement but don’t scream luxury.

Movements

Tissot and Movado differ significantly in their movements. Although Tissot uses generic Swiss movements in some models, it also builds some very good in-house movements some of which are COSC-certified.

Movado stopped making in-house movements in 1970 and all models use very good generic Swiss movements. Both brands offer automatic and quartz-powered watches.

Tissot

Tiisot’s best in-house movements are its 11 ½” automatics that are COSC certified and have a solid power reserve of 38 hours. It offers lower-priced watches powered by in-house automatic movements that are not COSC-certified, but still accurate and with 30-hour power reserves. 

At lower price points, Tissot has ETA quartz and automatic movements. All are Swiss-made and solidly built for accuracy and durability. For those who like to take a look at the works of their timepieces, Tissot has models with exhibition case backs. The movements are nicely designed and pretty to look at.

Movado

As stated earlier, Movado no longer makes in-house movements. However, their automatics use the ETA-2824-2 Swiss movement, which is well-made and used by many companies. The quartz Movado timepieces are powered by Citizen Miyota movements, which are solid as well. 

By using generic movements, Movado can keep its prices down. Although these are fine movements and reliable, you aren’t getting anything special that you can’t find in many other brands. There are Movado models with exhibition case backs. The movements look well-made but not especially aesthetically pleasing. 

Price Point

Both Tissot and Movado are in the “accessible luxury” category, meaning that they make quality watches that are affordable for most people looking for a nice timepiece. A great thing is that most chain jewelry and department stores carry both brands. You can take a trip to your local mall and try on models from both to see which you prefer.

Tissot

Tissot offers a wide variety of watches that are priced below $500. Their higher-end automatics range from $500-$1,000. Even their top-of-the-line Le Locle models made with precious metals sell below $2,000, topping out at $1,800. 

When you consider that Tissot uses quality materials and builds in-house movements, some of which are COSC-certified, you realize the brand offers a lot of value for the money.

Movado

Movado fits into the same affordable luxury category and has a similar range of prices as Tissot. The watches of the Face Collection sell for less than $500, but frankly, look like inexpensive watches.

Most of the other collections range in price from $500-$1,000 but in the Heritage and Museum Classic Collections, there are several models that run significantly higher, above $2,000. Some of the Alta Series come in at just under $4,000.

Movado does make stylish, quality timepieces, but considering it doesn’t offer in-house or COSC-certified movements, I can’t say the value for the money is equal to Tissot. Honestly, Movado appeals to a niche section of horology lovers who like a style that is atypical of most brands.

Conclusion

A good watch does not have to be prohibitively expensive. Tissot and Movado are two Swiss brands that prove this. Although not on the list of high-luxury watches, these timepieces are available in a variety of types, styles, and colors, that are perfect for the beginner on a budget or filling out the collections of experienced horological connoisseurs. 

If you’re looking for a quality watch at an affordable price, Tissot and Movado are two candidates worthy of your consideration. I much prefer Tissot for its value for the money, in-house movements, and more classic designs. 

Having said that, Movado has plenty of fans and if you are an avant-garde type of person, the brand might just suit you perfectly.

Movado isn’t the biggest name in the watch world. Even people who know nothing about watches have heard of Rolex and Omega, and those who have dipped their toes into the hobby will be familiar with brands like Seiko, Longines, and Tissot. But Movado is something of a hidden gem, which is exactly why I like them so much. 

There’s something special about a brand that feels like a well-kept secret. Movado has a rich history, solid craftsmanship, and a distinct design language, yet they somehow fly under the radar compared to some of their Swiss counterparts.

I don’t think that’s going to last forever, though which, selfishly, is a bit of a shame for people like me who like to keep the good stuff to themselves. But for Movado, it’s a good thing. They deserve more appreciation. 

Recently, they completely revamped their famous 1881 Automatic collection, making it feel more familiar. What do I mean by that?

Well, I’ll explain shortly. But these new models strike an interesting balance: they still have the unmistakable Movado DNA but they also feel a little more timeless, a little more approachable. They’re the kind of watches that won’t make you shy away but still offer something different from the norm. 

There’s a lot to unpack here, so let’s get into it.

A Quick History of Movado & the “Museum Dial”

Movado’s story begins in 1881 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, one of the world’s great watchmaking hubs. It was founded by Achilles Ditesheim, a young entrepreneur with a vision of creating high-quality timepieces that balanced artistry with precision.

Over the years, Movado built a strong reputation, winning numerous awards for innovation and craftsmanship. They were never the biggest Swiss brand, but they carved out a niche with sleek, well-made watches that stood apart from the crowd.

But if there’s one design that defines Movado more than any other, it’s the Museum Dial. The Museum Dial was born in 1947, not from a watchmaker’s sketchbook but from the mind of an American industrial designer named Nathan George Horwitt.

It was originally created for a wall clock, inspired by the Bauhaus movement’s clean, minimalist aesthetic. Horwitt’s idea was simple yet bold: a single dot at 12 o’clock to symbolize the sun at high noon, with an otherwise completely blank dial.

It was a design meant to capture the passage of time in its purest form with no numbers and thus no distractions. 

Movado adopted the design in the 1950s, and it became their signature look. By the 1990s, the Museum Dial watch was everywhere in the company’s portfolios. It was one of those timepieces that seemed to define the era.

It was sleek, sophisticated, and unmistakably different. I remember seeing it on the wrists of adults when I was younger and I always associated it as being a statement piece that signified taste and style. 

But for all its popularity, the Museum Dial has always been divisive. Some people love its clean simplicity, while others find it impractical.

Let’s be honest, it’s not the easiest watch to read. With no hour markers and just a pair of hands, precision takes a backseat to aesthetics. If you need to know the exact time at a glance, the Museum Dial will not be your perfect display. And that’s exactly why some watch enthusiasts have never warmed up to it. 

Still, there’s no denying its impact. The Museum Dial is a design icon, the kind of watch that people recognize instantly. It’s been produced in countless variations over the years, from quartz models to higher-end Swiss automatics. Even today, Movado continues to offer it in different forms. 

That brings us to the new Movado 1881 Automatic collection, where you get the best of both worlds. This new family of watches still celebrates the essence of the Museum Dial, but with a more contemporary, functional twist.

Now, things are clearer, more precise and hopefully less polarizing. And yet they’re still distinctly Movado. It’s a refresh that makes sense, one that blends the past with the present in a way that feels effortless. And that, in my opinion, is exactly what Movado needed.

Case 

One of the first things you notice about the Movado 1881 Automatic is its sleek and understated case. It doesn’t scream for attention, but it has an effortless elegance that suits the brand’s minimalist approach. The proportions are well thought out, offering both a smaller 30mm version and a larger 40mm model. 

I really appreciate that Movado doesn’t define their watches by gender because after all, watches are about personal preference, not labels. As a female who loves a larger watch, especially one with a design as distinctive as this, I’d go for the 40mm without hesitation.

But I also know plenty of gentlemen who love a small, vintage-inspired look, and for them, the 30mm version will be right up their alley. That said, the jump from 30mm to 40mm is quite significant, and with nothing currently in between, I can only hope Movado expands the lineup with more size options in the future. 

Material-wise, Movado keeps it classic. The case is available in stainless steel or gold PVD, with options in both yellow and rose gold finishes.

There are also some two-tone designs that mix steel and gold together for a bit of added versatility. The case design itself is unmistakably Movado. It’s simple, traditional, and perfectly round, just as you’d expect.

The case is fully polished, which gives it an elegant shine, though I wouldn’t call the finishing particularly remarkable. Still, it’s attractive and fits the refined, dressy aesthetic Movado is known for. 

The short, curved lugs allow the watch to sit comfortably on the wrist, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal which is a great inclusion at this price point. Not only is sapphire highly scratch-resistant, but it also enhances the watch’s premium feel.

Around the back, Movado has gone for an exhibition case back, using another sheet of sapphire crystal to showcase the automatic movement inside. I love this detail as it’s always nice to see the mechanics of a watch in action, and it adds an extra layer of interest to an otherwise minimalist timepiece.

For water resistance, the Movado 1881 Automatic is rated at 30 meters which is pretty standard for a dress watch. Realistically, this isn’t a watch you’ll want near water, and that’s fine as this is a timepiece designed for style, not swimming.

Dial 

The dial of the Movado 1881 Automatic truly brings the watch’s personality to life. It comes in several configurations that cater to different tastes.

Each model boasts a unique texture that adds a layer of depth and light play and of course, they all proudly display the signature “dot” at 12 o’clock, a nod to the iconic Museum Dial. This element, once exclusive to the Museum Dial era, now graces almost every Movado watch to solidify its identity.

For the 40mm models—and a select few of the 30mm variants—the dial features a distinct sunburst effect that starts at the centre and reaches the very edge of the display. This isn’t just a subtle engraving like you usually find on a sunburst dial.

No, it’s a real three-dimensional sunray design that catches the light beautifully. As the light shifts, the dial’s colors transition from dark to light, creating an almost mesmerizing visual play. The 40mm dials come in a range of striking colors, including classic black, dark green, silvery white, and a gorgeous dark navy blue. 

The remaining 30mm models offer a slightly different take. Here, the outer flange, where the hour markers reside, benefits from the same sunburst effect, while the central area is left clean and smooth.

This contrast adds another dimension to the overall aesthetic, making these dials particularly interesting. Instead of traditional straight hour markers, these models also feature eleven diamond dot indices that introduce a touch of sparkle to the design. You can choose from a simple black dial or two mother of pearl variants in black or white MOP. 

One of the biggest improvements in these new 1881 Automatic watches is the addition of hour markers. Earlier iterations of the Museum Dial were minimalist to the point of being challenging to read, relying solely on the hands.

Now, with clearly defined markers, you get better readability and more accurate timekeeping. Thankfully though, the design still opts out of a seconds hand to maintain the clean aesthetic as much as possible. 

As mentioned, every dial features the classic Museum Dial motif at the 12 o’clock position. It’s smaller than before but still boldly noticeable, practically screaming “Movado” from across the room.

The only other markings are the discreet Movado logo and “Swiss Made” at 6 o’clock, and “1881 Automatic” quietly printed below the Museum Dial motif. 

Movement 

When it comes to the inner workings of the Movado 1881 Automatic, the details on the website are pretty vague. We’re just given a simple “Swiss Automatic” description that leaves us watch collectors wanting more.

For the average wearer, that might be enough, but for someone like me who’s a bit of a horology nerd, the specifics matter. So, I did a bit of digging, and yes, I even spent a little extra time studying the back of the watch, to uncover what’s really powering these timepieces. 

It turns out that the movement under the hood is the tried and tested Sellita SW-200. This movement is a favorite among enthusiasts for good reason. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour or 4Hz to ensure smooth and reliable timekeeping.

With 26 jewels to reduce friction and enhance durability, the SW-200 is built to stand the test of time. And let’s not forget its power reserve of 38 hours, which means you can take it off for a day or two and still have a bit of juice left. It’s also automatic winding, so as long as it’s on your wrist, it’ll stay fully wound and fully powered.

Straps 

When it comes to the strap options for the Movado 1881 Automatic, Movado has clearly made a thoughtful choice that aligns with the dressy vibe of the watch.

The standard option is a calfskin leather strap featuring a deployant clasp that feels both secure and of decent quality. Personally, I’d only consider swapping it out for a higher quality leather if I were really inclined, as I think this would enhance the watch greatly. 

Movado also offers alternatives in stainless steel or two-toned five-row link bracelets, which lend a more modern, polished look. However, for a dress watch like this, the leather strap really hits the mark.

The leather features a lovely grained finish that not only enhances the visual appeal but also gives the watch a slightly retro vibe which I think is a perfect match for the 90’s Museum dial. The leather comes in classic black or brown, providing options that can easily complement a variety of dressy outfits. 

What’s more, the deployment buckle on the leather strap is nicely designed to match the rest of the case hardware, whether that’s stainless steel or gold PVD. This attention to detail reinforces the watch’s overall refined look.

While some might explore rubber or textile straps, I can’t imagine the Movado 1881 looking any better in anything but leather or metal. And rest assured, should you ever wish to change the strap, there are plenty of quality replacement options available 

On-Wrist Experience 

Wearing the Movado 1881 Automatic feels like a perfect balance between elegance and presence. The watch’s well-thought-out proportions make it comfortable for daily wear, whether you opt for the 40mm or the 30mm version.

Personally, I lean towards the 40mm model because I love the bold statement it makes, even on my 5.5 inch wrist. It carries a bit more heft, which gives it a substantial presence without feeling cumbersome. That said, the 40mm is ideal for those with larger wrists than mine, probably anything up to around 7.5 inches. 

For those with smaller wrists or simply a love of smaller watches, the 30mm model is an equally attractive option.

It fits naturally without overpowering your look, making it an excellent choice for a more understated, vintage-inspired style. The sleek design transitions effortlessly from day to night. I paired it with both formal attire and smart-casual ensembles, and it elevated my look every time.

Price & Availability 

The Movado 1881 Automatic collection offers remarkable value for what you get, starting at a retail price of $1,195. The most affordable models are the classic steel-cased versions paired with a refined leather strap, which strike the perfect balance between sophistication and practicality.

If you’re looking for a bit of extra flair, the gold PVD models push the price to around $1,295, while the steel bracelet options come in at $1,495. 

For those who appreciate a touch of luxury, the lineup tops out with the full bracelet 30mm models that feature diamond dot indices, retailing for $1,595.

These watches not only bring a historic design and Swiss automatic movement to the table but also include intricate details that are hard to find for under $2,000. It’s genuinely refreshing to see a timepiece that combines the prestige of Swiss watchmaking, a dial steeped in history, and a design that features subtle diamond accents all without breaking the bank.

Since this is a new collection, there aren’t any pre-owned examples available yet, which means that buying new is currently your best and only option. Just be sure that when you go to buy, you choose an authorized Movado retailer.

Conclusion

While I never personally found the traditional Movado Museum Dial overly divisive, the new Movado 1881 Automatic collection has managed to strike a brilliant balance between heritage and modernity.

Movado has taken an iconic design, the minimalist “dot” at 12 o’clock, and refreshed it for today’s watch enthusiast. The dial is now more legible than before, thanks to the introduction of clearly defined hour markers, yet it still carries that unmistakable Museum Dial motif that gives it a strong sense of identity. 

The movement upgrade to the reliable Sellita SW-200, with its impressive 28,800 vibrations per hour and 38 hour power reserve, shows that Movado isn’t just resting on its laurels. They’ve managed to combine the nostalgic charm of their past with modern-day functionality.

And with a wide range of design options from the subtle charm of the leather strap models to the bold look of diamond dot indices, there’s truly something for every collector without straying too far from the core DNA of the brand. 

Price-wise, these watches are fantastic. They’re ideal dress watches for someone that wants Swiss automatic precision, elegant design details, and a rich history all wrapped up in a single package.

My only wish is that Movado will one day expand the case size options further. I’d love to see the 1881 Automatic in 36mm or 38mm and I know many others will agree with me.