Category: Watch Reviews

How wrong most people are to think that a timepiece is only a mass of cold metal with an escapement gear that makes it tick. How very uninformed are many humans to believe that a watch is only a piece of cogwheel, rack, and pinions strapped to the wrist by a strip of leather, rubber, cloth, or metal.

Watch collecting involves acquiring, researching, and appreciating timepieces for their design, craftsmanship, historical significance, or investment potential. Each watch holds a unique narrative, waiting to be discovered and cherished by those who appreciate the beauty of time.

Collectors are the ones who find joy and fulfillment in sharing these stories, ensuring that the art of watchmaking will forever be celebrated. The desire to collect multiple watches might not make much sense, but the art of collecting watches has more to do with our passion, emotions, experiences, and stories.

Welcome to the world of watch collecting, where we enjoy a range of emotional outbursts from joy, anger, surprise, desire, rejection, and hundreds of other states of mind.

How to Start Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you’re a newbie and want to begin this journey, be warned that watch collecting is a horological rabbit hole. Once you’re in its burrow, it is difficult to extricate yourself. This is because the more you acquire watches, the more knowledgeable you get and the more appreciation and satisfaction you derive.

The Horological universe is very enthralling, and by the time you begin to learn the functions of a tourbillon, chronometer, chronograph, etc, you’ll find yourself head over heels in love with watches. That being said, you need a lot of guidance to build a cohesive and meaningful collection. Here’s the best way to start your watch-collecting journey:

1. Learn Basic Watch Terminology.

No, I’m not saying you should take a certified watchmaking course or become a horology wizard. Learning basic watch technology is as simple as knowing the various terms and concepts used to describe different aspects of watches. 

This knowledge helps in building connections within the watch community and would enable you to discuss specific watch features accurately and precisely. 

You’d also gain valuable insights and information. With the basic watch terminologies at your fingertips, you can identify authentic pieces, distinguish between different watch types, and understand the intricacies of watch collecting.

If you’re not sure which watch terminologies you need to learn, here are a few crucial terms to give you a jumpstart:

• Movement: Also known as a caliber, it refers to the mechanism inside a watch that powers its timekeeping functions. The two primary types are mechanical and quartz movements.

• Dial: The face of the watch where the time is displayed. It usually includes hour markers, minute markers, and hands.

• Hands: The indicators on the dial that show the hours, minutes, and seconds. They are typically made of metal and move to indicate the time.

• Crown: A knob on the side of the watch used for winding the timepiece, setting the time, and adjusting other functions.

• Case: The outer shell of the watch that protects the movement and dial.

• Lugs: Projections on the case where the strap or bracelet is attached. They secure the strap or bracelet to the watch.

• Crystal: The transparent cover that protects the dial. Common materials used for watch crystals include mineral glass, synthetic sapphire, and acrylic.

• Bezel: The ring surrounding the dial. It can be stationary or rotatable and may have markings or other functions, such as calculating elapsed time or measuring distances.

• Strap/Bracelet: The band that holds the watch on the wrist. Straps are typically made of materials like leather, rubber, or fabric, while bracelets are made of metal links.

• Complications: Additional functions or features beyond basic timekeeping. Examples include a date display, chronograph (stopwatch), moon phase indicator, and GMT (dual time zone).

• Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to withstand water without damage. It is often measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres) and indicates the watch’s level of water resistance.

• Power Reserve: The amount of time a watch can operate without being wound or receiving additional power. It is especially relevant for mechanical watches.

2. Decide the Type of Watch You Want

There are several factors to consider when deciding the type of watch you want. The watch market is vast and diverse, with numerous brands, models, and variations available:

• Vintage-inspired watch: These watches often draw inspiration from classic timepiece designs and incorporate elements that evoke nostalgia and charm. 

It’s a type of watch that will be a great option for you if you appreciate history and classic designs. Brands like Omega, Rolex, and Longines have iconic vintage models that have stood the test of time and are highly sought after by established collectors.

If you have access to a real vintage watch, which is a timepiece that is old, antique, or typically from a previous era, say at least 20 to 30 years old, it’s also a good place to start.

Vintage watches embody the craftsmanship and technical achievements of a bygone era. They can offer unique and distinctive designs that may not be commonly found in contemporary watches, plus the scarcity and rarity of specific vintage models makes them highly valuable.

• Dress watch: Now, this type of watch is typically understated, elegant, and suitable for formal occasions. To lay hands on some exceptional dress watches, you might want to try brands like Nomos, Tissot, Hamilton, and Junghans. Look for watches with clean dials, slim profiles, and leather straps.

• Sports watch: You could also try this type of watch. If you prefer a more casual or sporty style, brands like Casio, Seiko, and Citizen offer a wide range of sports watches with features like water resistance, chronograph functions, and robust build quality. 

Additionally, you might consider dive watches like the Seiko SKX007 or the Orient Mako II, which are popular entry-level options.

• Swiss luxury watches: If you’re willing to invest in a higher-end timepiece, Swiss luxury brands like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, and Breitling are highly regarded for their craftsmanship, heritage, and quality. They offer a wide range of models to suit different tastes and styles.

Ultimately, the type of watch you need depends on your personal preferences, budget, and intended use. Consider trying timepieces in person, researching different models, and exploring various brands to find the one that resonates with you the most. 
When choosing your first timepiece, getting a great all-around, versatile, or multi-purpose watch that will excel in various situations and environments is best. These watches typically combine multiple features and functionalities to cater to a wide range of activities and needs, so they’ll perfectly fit your lifestyle.

3. Set Your Budget

Watches come in a wide range of prices, from affordable options to luxury timepieces. By setting a price range you hope to stick with, you can narrow down your choices.

This saves time and energy by eliminating options beyond what you are willing or able to spend. It will help you make a more thoughtful and informed decision to ensure that your purchase aligns with your financial situation, goals, and values.

Apart from preventing overspending on a watch, it helps you resist the temptation to make a hasty decision that could lead to regret later on. It also encourages thoughtful consideration and evaluation of your options and prevents debt and financial strain.

Why Do People Collect Watches?

Once upon a time, in a small town nestled amidst rolling hills, there lived a man named Ben who lived with his grandfather. Together, they would spend hours tinkering with gears and springs, discussing the craftsmanship and precision required to create these engineering marvels. During those precious moments, Ben’s fascination took root and grew into an insatiable love for watches.

Grandpa passed on, but Ben never forgot how he mesmerized him with the ticking rhythm of his pocket watches. As Ben grew older, his fascination with watches intensified. He spent countless hours immersing himself in the intricate world of watchmaking. 

He soon began collecting watches, and each one held a special place in his heart, symbolizing a unique moment in his life or representing a particular era of craftsmanship. One fateful day, while browsing through a market in a bustling city, Ben stumbled upon a small, nondescript stall. There, hidden amidst a jumble of trinkets, lay a tarnished old pocket watch. 

Its worn exterior showed the signs of time, but something about it caught his eye. He picked it up delicately, feeling an inexplicable connection. As he turned the watch in his hands, a flood of emotions washed over Ben. Memories long forgotten resurfaced, transporting him back to his childhood home. 

He remembered the sound of his grandfather’s laughter, the scent of freshly oiled gears, and the warmth of a loving embrace. This watch, he realized, was the one his grandfather had once owned. Unable to contain his excitement, Ben bought the pocket watch without hesitation. He carefully restored it, breathing new life into its faded beauty. 

With each tick and tock, the watch seemed to tell stories of shared moments between grandfather and grandson. As Ben delved deeper into his grandfather’s legacy, he discovered a hidden compartment within the watch. Inside, he found a worn photograph of his grandfather, a handwritten note. 

The note read, “To my dearest grandson, may this pocket watch always bring back memories of our shared love for horology”.

The watch became Ben’s most prized possession, representing the eternal bond that reminded him that love transcends time and that cherished memories can be captured and treasured forever. 

Each day, he would wind the watch, savoring the synchronized rhythm of its ticking, a harmonious symphony that whispered stories of love and passion. Ben’s collection continued to grow, and he found fulfillment in sharing his story, ensuring that the art of watchmaking would forever be celebrated. 

Through his collection, he not only amassed a wealth of horological masterpieces but also touched the lives of those who heard his tale.

People collect watches because they can be seen as tangible pieces of a story. Many collectors are drawn to timepieces that have played a significant role in horological advancements or have connections to important events or individuals. 

These watches serve as a link to the past and evoke a sense of nostalgia. People also collect watches to enjoy the beauty and elegance they bring to their wrists. Collectors appreciate the engineering and technical mastery involved in the making of each timepiece and also collect watches as a form of financial investment.

A Watch Collector vs A Watch Addict

Now I know it may seem absurd, but there’s such a thing as a watch addict. Being a watch collector without becoming a watch addict requires a balanced approach and mindful decision-making. Watch addiction, like any other addiction, can be detrimental to your health, so I’m quickly going to look at the characteristics of each one side by side.

Watch Collector	Watch Addict
Collectors make a deliberate and mindful approach to acquiring a watch.	An addict has an uncontrollable and obsessive desire to acquire watches.
Collectors set specific goals, such as building a diverse collection, focusing on a particular brand or style, or aiming for rare and valuable pieces. All true collectors carefully curate their collection, selecting pieces that align with their collecting goals and personal taste.	Individuals with watch addiction have no goals and may experience a compulsion to constantly buy new watches, often without considering their financial situation or the value of these time-telling devices.
There is more focus on the quality, craftsmanship, and value of watches over accumulating a large number of timepieces.	Watch addicts do not care about the quality. They just make impulsive purchases driven by the thrill of acquiring new watches or being caught up in the hype or trends.
Collectors tend to have a long-term perspective, focusing on the enjoyment and appreciation of their watches over time. They may view their collection as an investment, both financially and emotionally.	For addicts, acquiring watches becomes the primary goal, and the watches themselves may not hold significant personal, financial, or historical value.
Collectors maintain a healthy balance between their passion for watches and other aspects of life.	The majority of addicts struggle to maintain a healthy balance between their watch-collecting passion and other areas of life. Their obsession with watches can dominate their thoughts and actions, impacting relationships, work, and other important aspects of life.
Collectors make conscious decisions about their spending and maintain self-control to avoid impulsive purchases.	Watch addicts sometimes overspend or accumulate debt in pursuit of their obsession. This can have negative consequences on their overall financial well-being.

If you’re struggling with watch addiction, the first step is acknowledging that you have this problem and that it’s causing negative effects in your life. 

Define your goals for reducing or eliminating your watch addiction and pay attention to the situations, emotions, or events that trigger your desire to buy watches. Is it stress, boredom, or the fear of missing out? By identifying these triggers, you can develop strategies to cope with them in healthier ways.

Share your goal with supportive friends or family members who can help you stay accountable. Seek support when needed, and don’t hesitate to reach out for professional help if you feel it’s necessary.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $500

Starting your collection with watches below $500 is an excellent way to begin. Since the watches are more budget-friendly, you have the opportunity to acquire multiple timepieces without breaking the bank. This way, you can explore different styles, brands, and complications without a significant financial commitment.

You can expect a wide range of options across various styles, brands, and features.

You may not find luxury or high-end Swiss watches in this price range, but there are still many excellent choices available. Here are the best 5 watches under $500.

1. Seiko 5 Sports SRPE55

Seiko was established in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori. The Japanese watch brand is known for its precision, innovation, and craftsmanship, making it a prominent player in the global watch industry. 

The SRPE55 is a specific model within Seiko’s popular Seiko 5 Sports collection. The watch features a round 40.0 × 11.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed and polished finish, giving it a stylish and versatile look.

This reference has a black dial with a textured pattern, giving it depth and visual interest. The dial features applied hour markers and luminescent hands, ensuring good visibility in low-light conditions. It also includes a day-date window at the 3 o’clock position. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, a self-winding mechanical movement, and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

You can get the SRPE55 for around $250 to $300.

2. Orient Kamasu

Orient is a well-established Japanese brand that was founded in 1950. It offers a diverse range of watch styles, including dress, sports, and diving watches, making it popular among watch enthusiasts and casual consumers alike.

The Kamasu is a popular diver’s watch model within Orient’s lineup that draws inspiration from traditional dive watches while incorporating modern design elements. The watch features a stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), making it suitable for recreational diving and water activities. 

It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, allowing divers to track elapsed time underwater accurately, a highly legible dial, and automatic movement. For about $300, you can get the Orient Kamasu Blue RA-AA0002L19A.

3. Tissot PRX Quartz

Tissot is a renowned Swiss watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces since its establishment in 1853. With a rich heritage spanning over a century and a commitment to innovation, a watch from the Le Locle-based is an excellent place to begin.

The PRX, short for “Precision, Robustness, and X-factor,” is a modern reinterpretation of a classic Tissot design from the 1970s. The beautiful watch combines contemporary elements with a vintage-inspired aesthetic, offering a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The case is 40mm in diameter, providing a balanced and comfortable fit on the wrist. The quartz watch also boasts a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters, adding a practical touch to its design.

For $350, you can get the Tissot PRX Ref. T137.410.11.041.00.

4. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is a versatile and reliable timepiece suitable for collectors who appreciate military-inspired aesthetics, traditional mechanical movements, and a practical yet stylish design.

The Ref. H69439931 features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm, making it suitable for both men and women. The dial of the watch is black with neutral earth tone minute markers and large Arabic hour numerals.

There are no additional complications such as date or chronograph functions on this timepiece, emphasizing the minimalist approach and utilitarian nature of the watch. It is powered by the exclusive caliber H-50 with an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. It also comes on a NATO strap, further enhancing its military-inspired look and comfort.

The watch has an MSRP of $595, but you can usually find it for about $500 if you shop around. 

5. Lorier Falcon Series III

The Lorier Falcon Series III is a line of mechanical watches produced by Lorier Watches, a microbrand based in the United States. The New York-based brand is owned and operated by husband and wife Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega and is known for creating vintage-inspired timepieces. 

The Falcon Series III is the latest iteration of their Falcon line and features several updates and improvements over its predecessors. The watch draws inspiration from classic sports watches of the 1960s and 1970s but has a sporty edge. It comes in a 36mm stainless steel case which is a versatile size suitable for most wrist sizes. 

The lug-to-lug distance is 44mm ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. The dial of the Falcon Series III retains the brand’s signature honeycomb dial, and the hands and hour markers have been coated with luminescent material for excellent low-light visibility. The attention to detail, versatility, and overall build quality are superb.

You can get this amazing, vintage-inspired everyday timepiece for $499.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $2000 

Starting your watch collection with watches around $2000 is a great choice because there’s a significant step up in terms of quality and craftsmanship compared to cheaper options. You can expect higher-grade materials, better finishing, and attention to detail in both the case, dial, and movement.

Plus, many renowned watch brands offer entry-level models around the $2000 mark. By starting your collection with timepieces from respected brands, you establish a foundation for your collection and align yourself with the heritage and reputation associated with those brands.

Here are our top picks from this range:

1. Longines Hydroconquest 41 (ref. L3.781.4.96.6)

Did you know that the famous winged hourglass logo from Longines is the world’s oldest trademark? It was internationally registered in 1889 (57 years after the brand was founded) and has remained unchanged for over 130 years now.

The Longines HydroConquest 41 combines the functionality of a dive watch with the refined craftsmanship and heritage of Longines. It offers a versatile and robust timepiece suitable for both everyday wear and outdoor activities, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

The timepiece is designed as a diver’s watch and offers a water resistance of up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). This level of water resistance makes it suitable for recreational diving and various water activities. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 11.90mm.

The bezel is ceramic, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating. This reference is powered by the Longines Caliber L888 with 72 hours of power reserve, allowing for extended periods of use without winding.

The watch comes with an MSRP of $1,775.

2. Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date (ref. 01 751 7761 4164-07 3 20 03LC)

Oris is known for its combination of Swiss quality, affordability, diverse collections, independent spirit, and environmental consciousness.

Sized at 41mm, the Pro Pilot Big Date is the perfect balance of dressy and sporty. As its name suggests, one of the notable features of the Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date is its big date complication. 

Positioned at 3 o’clock, the date display on this watch is larger than a standard date window, providing enhanced visibility. The aviation-inspired watch is designed for professional pilots and thus features a large, easy-to-read dial with prominent hour markers and hands for optimal legibility.

The robust stainless steel case features a coin edge pattern on the bezel inspired by a jet engine, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. Under the hood of the watch is the caliber 751 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.

You can find this amazing Oris watch for $1,900. 

3. NOMOS Glashütte Tangente (ref. 101)

NOMOS Glashütte watches are known for their Bauhaus-inspired design, in-house movements, precision, value for money, and connection to the esteemed Glashütte watchmaking tradition. German watchmaking has a reputation for precision and engineering excellence, and Glashütte upholds this tradition with the Tangente Ref. 101.

The Tangente model is one of the brand’s most iconic and popular designs, making it a sought-after choice for many watch collectors.

The classic watch features a round stainless steel case that has a diameter of 35.0 mm and a height of 6.2 mm. The overall design is characterized by clean lines, simplicity, and functionality leading to a sleek, elegant, very charming, and mesmerizing watch.

The dial of the Tangente Ref. 101 features a minimalist layout, with Arabic numerals juxtaposed with stick hour markers, along with slender hands for hours, minutes, and seconds. The watch is suitable for both formal and casual occasions and is powered by the handcrafted and manually wound Alpha caliber with a power reserve of 43 hours.

The Tangente will run you back about $1,900.

4. Sinn 556 I

Sinn Spezialuhren, commonly known as Sinn, is a renowned German watch manufacturer. The brand is known for producing robust, precise, and functional timepieces that cater to professionals, adventurers, and collectors seeking high-quality watches with exceptional engineering and practical features.

The 556 I is part of Sinn’s 556 series, known for its sleek and minimalist design combined with robust functionality. The watch we have here has a satinized stainless steel case with a diameter of 38.5mm and a thickness of 11mm.  

It is built to be highly durable and waterproof, and pressure-resistant to 200 meters. The design of the glossy black dial emphasizes legibility and simplicity. The Sinn 556 I is equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which offers excellent protection against scratches and impacts.

The watch is powered by an automatic movement, the Swiss Sellita SW200-1, which is one of the most robust and reliable movements you can find.

Depending on where you shop for it, you can get the Sinn 556 I for around $1,500.

5. Doxa Sub 300T Professional (ref. 840.10.351.10)

Doxa watch brand is known for its strong association with diving watches and its commitment to producing timepieces that meet the demands of underwater exploration. The independent Swiss watch manufacturer is renowned for its expertise in creating functional and reliable watches that combine innovative features with avant-garde designs.

The Sub 300T Professional is a renowned dive watch that has gained a significant following among diving enthusiasts and collectors across the globe. Originally introduced in the late 1960s, the iconic timepiece is loved for its robust construction and impressive water resistance rating.

The Ref. 840.10.351.10 features a stainless steel case that measures 42mm in diameter, with a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time underwater. One of the standout features of this watch is its exceptional water resistance rating of 1,200 meters.  

The watch also incorporates a helium escape valve, which allows the release of built-up helium during saturation dives, preventing damage to the watch.

It comes with an MSRP of $1,890 on the beautiful stainless steel bracelet.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Around $5000

Starting a watch collection with watches around $5000 gives you access to a wide range of design options. 

Many renowned watchmakers and luxury brands produce timepieces in this price bracket, ensuring you’re investing in a well-made watch with meticulous attention to detail.

You’ll find timepieces here that can retain their value well and, in some cases, appreciate over time, making them both enjoyable to wear and potentially a good investment.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Omega is a Swiss luxury watch brand with a long-standing reputation for producing highly accurate timepieces. 

Apart from being at the forefront of horological innovation by introducing numerous technological advancements in the watchmaking industry, the brand has been involved in precision timekeeping since the late 19th century.

The Seamaster collection has been a part of the Omega family since 1948 and has gained significant recognition for its association with the James Bond film franchise. The Diver 300M is a professional diving watch designed for underwater exploration and is water-resistant up to a depth of 300 meters (1000 feet). 

The Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001 features a 42 mm stainless steel case with a blue ceramic bezel and white enamel diving scale. The Master Chronometer-certified watch offers excellent legibility with its wave-patterned dial, inspired by the ocean.

The watch comes with a retail price of $5,900 on the stainless steel bracelet and $5,600 on the matching blue rubber strap.

2. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Tudor was founded in 1946 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf as a more accessible alternative to Rolex watches. The brand is known for producing high-quality Swiss watches that offer a blend of craftsmanship, reliability, and outstanding value for money. 

Its diving heritage, connection to Rolex, and attention to design aesthetics have contributed to the brand’s strong reputation in the watch industry. The Black Bay Chrono draws inspiration from Tudor’s vintage diving watches and has a distinct retro-modern appeal.

The watch features a 41mm steel case with a polished and satin finish, which is both robust and waterproof to 200 meters, making it suitable for diving activities.

The bezel is unidirectional and has a tachymeter scale with silver markings for measuring speed. The dial is clean and highly legible with sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock for 45-minute and small seconds counters, respectively.

The Black Bay Chrono can be yours for $5,450.

3.  Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW231

Grand Seiko is a brand that is celebrated globally for its blend of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, precision, and timeless design. It has earned a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate the brand’s commitment to excellence and its pursuit of perfection.

The Elegance SBGW231 is an elegant dress watch with exceptional beauty and refinement. It is one of the best statement pieces you can add to your collection and measures just 37.3mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.6mm.

The watch is clean and sharp with a highly polished case, hands, and indices, showcasing the brand’s signature “Zaratsu” polishing technique. This technique involves using a special tin plate to achieve an incredibly smooth and mirror-like finish, resulting in a captivating interplay of light and shadow.

It is powered by a caliber 9S64, with a power reserve of 72 hours, and you can purchase it for just $4,300 here.

4. Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 (ref. A32397101B1X1)

Breitling is a Swiss brand that is globally recognized for its collection of professional and tool watches that are specifically designed for various demanding environments. The Breitling Avenger collection is a range of robust and functional watches that combine a bold design with reliable performance.

The case of Avenger Automatic GMT 43 is made of stainless steel, providing durability and resistance to water and corrosion. It has a diameter of 43mm and a thickness of 12.2 mm. 

It is also equipped with a screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance up to 300 meters. The legible dial has a date display at the 3 o’clock position, and a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function allows you to track two timezones simultaneously. 

The additional vivid red hand indicates the time in a different time zone, making it convenient for frequent travelers or individuals who need to communicate across different time zones. It is powered by the caliber TECH-217 with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and comes in at a very solid price of $4,300.

5. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC (International Watch Company) is a brand that has established itself as a respected luxury watchmaker. Renowned for its pilot’s watches, Swiss craftsmanship, mechanical expertise, timeless design, and notable collaborations, the Swiss brand has been on fire lately.

The IWC Mark collection pays homage to the original design and functionality of the Mark XI while incorporating modern advancements in watchmaking technology. The Ref.IW328201 is inspired by the iconic Mark II pilot’s watch, first introduced in 1948 for the British Royal Air Force.

The case of the watch has classic dimensions with a diameter of 40mm with a slim profile of 10.8mm, a screw-in crown, and a convenient water resistance of 100 meters.

The layout of the dial is superb, with large Arabic numerals, luminescent hands, and a date display at 3 o’clock. It is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 32111 Caliber, with 164 components and an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.

The Mark XX comes with a retail price of $5,250.

10 Tips & Tricks To Help You On Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you have begun your watch-collecting journey, congratulations! Watch collecting can be an exciting and rewarding hobby for many people, and you’re going to enjoy every bit of it. 

However, it is also a complex and intricate hobby. There are numerous watch brands, models, movements, complications, and historical details to consider. 

Here are a few tips and tricks to provide you with valuable knowledge and expertise to make more informed decisions. 

1. Discover Your Style

To discover your style, learn about different watch styles, brands, and designs. Explore watch magazines, websites, forums, and social media platforms dedicated to watches. This will help you familiarize yourself with various options and understand what appeals to you. Determine if you lean towards classic, vintage, sporty, modern, minimalist, or other styles. Don’t forget factors like size, shape, complications, and movement types. 

If you lead an active lifestyle, you might lean towards sports watches or dive watches. If you prefer a more formal or professional appearance, dress watches might be your preference. 

Consider your needs and choose watches that align with your daily life. It helps to get hands-on experience by visiting watch boutiques and authorized dealers or watch exhibitions to try on different timepieces.

2. Research The Market

Market research is essential for watch collectors as it provides valuable insights into the value, investment potential, rarity, and authenticity of different watches. By staying informed, collectors can make educated decisions that enhance their collections and protect their investments.

Additionally, understanding market trends, popularity, and desirability allows you to make choices that align with your collecting goals and preferences. You can also identify reputable sellers, auction houses, and platforms, ensuring you transact with trustworthy sources. 

3. Save Up For Your Grail Watches

A grail watch is a timepiece you’ve been coveting, yearning for, craving, and drooling over all your watch-collecting life. It’s the haute horology timepiece that is exclusive, rare, highly valuable, and often a limited edition from a reputable brand.

Owning one of these watches sets you apart from other collectors and enthusiasts, as it showcases your discerning taste and appreciation for fine craftsmanship. If you choose wisely and purchase a highly sought-after grail watch, it can potentially provide a financial return in the future.

4. Connect With The Community

Engage with other watch enthusiasts and collectors through online forums, social media groups, or local meetups. Share your thoughts, seek advice, and learn from their experiences. The watch community is an excellent source of inspiration and knowledge.

5. Trust Your Instincts

Ultimately, trust your instincts and choose watches you genuinely love and enjoy wearing. Your style should reflect your taste and personality. Don’t get swayed by trends or others’ opinions if they don’t resonate with you.

6. Mix And Match

Don’t be afraid to try out eccentric styles and designs. Watch purists often have strong opinions when it comes to exploring leather, metal, and NATO straps for vintage watches, but never mind them, my friend. Experiment with different straps or bracelets to change the look of a watch and match your outfits or activities.

7. Buy From Reputable Sources

It’s crucial to buy watches from trusted and reputable sellers. Authorized dealers, established retailers, and reputable online platforms are safer options to ensure authenticity and receive reliable customer service. Be cautious of counterfeit watches and sellers offering deals that seem too good to be true.

8. Build Relationships With Experts.

Connect with experts and watch enthusiasts. Attend watch events, join online communities, or visit watch clubs and forums. Engaging in discussions and seeking advice from experienced collectors can help expand your knowledge and understanding of the watch-collecting world.

9. Keep Records And Documentation

Maintain a record of your watch collection, including purchase dates, prices, and any relevant documentation. This will help you track your collection’s value, provenance, and service history. Proper documentation also adds authenticity and enhances the resale value of your watches.

10. Take Care Of Your Watches

Regularly service and maintain your watches to ensure their longevity and accuracy. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals and store them properly when not in use. Avoid exposing them to extreme temperatures, water damage, or unnecessary shocks.

Conclusion

Enjoy the Journey. Collecting watches is a hobby that should bring you joy and satisfaction. Take the time to appreciate the craftsmanship, history, and artistry behind each timepiece. The journey of building your collection can be as rewarding as the watches themselves.

In the realm of horology, watch enthusiasts and manufacturers are constantly seeking innovative ways to enhance the aesthetics and durability of timepieces. As technologies and manufacturing techniques evolve and become available in the watchmaking world, one such advancement in this field that has left a large footprint in the industry is the advent of watch coatings. 

Among the most popular are Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) and Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coatings. Both techniques have changed the watchmaking landscape, adding a blend of style, resilience, and functionality to modern timepieces. 

In this article, we will delve into the technical aspects of PVD and DLC coatings, analyze their differences, highlight the pros and cons, and explore other types of watch coatings available in the market. Let’s dive in.

What is PVD Coating?

First, a description: Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a thin-film coating process that involves depositing various materials on the surface of a watch in a controlled environment. This technique ensures a uniform and resilient layer, enhancing the watch’s appearance and performance. 

PVD coating has gained immense popularity in recent years due to its versatility and ability to cater to various consumer preferences in both aesthetics and practical durability and wear. 

Brands across the price and size spectrum from the micro level all the way to the top high-end have models making use of PVD in various applications. At its core, PVD coating enhances a watch’s looks and durability.

The PVD coating process is a meticulously controlled sequence of steps in manufacturing that transforms the watch’s surface, providing it with an additional layer of protection and aesthetic style (color, texture, etc.).

Cleaning and Preparation

Before the PVD coating process can begin, the watch components undergo a thorough cleaning. This step is crucial to remove any contaminants from the watch’s surface, ensuring optimal coating adhesion. A clean surface allows the coating to bond effectively with the timepiece, preventing any imperfections and enabling a uniform appearance.

Pre-Treatment

Once cleaned, the watch components go through a pre-treatment stage. In this step, the watch’s surface is prepared to increase its reactivity, enhancing the coating’s adhesion. Techniques like etching or ion bombardment are commonly employed in this pre-treatment phase to create a suitable surface for the subsequent deposition in the next step.

Deposition

The heart of the PVD coating process lies in the deposition stage. In a vacuum chamber, the watch components are exposed to a vaporized source material. The most commonly used materials in PVD coating are titanium nitride (TiN), zirconium nitride (ZrN), chromium nitride (CrN), and titanium carbonitride (TiCN). Each material offers distinct properties, including color, hardness, and scratch resistance.

The source material is vaporized using various methods, such as arc evaporation, where an electric arc is generated between the source material and an anode (usually made of copper). The electric arc heats the source material to extremely high temperatures, causing it to vaporize and condense on the watch’s surface. 

Another such technique is sputtering, in which Argon gas (an inert gas that won’t chemically react with the target material) is introduced to the vacuum chamber. An electric field is applied, which ionizes the argon gas, creating a plasma. The plasma, containing positively charged argon ions, bombards the cathode surface with high energy. 

As a result, atoms or ions from the cathode (target material) are sputtered or ejected from the surface, traveling through the vacuum chamber to ultimately condense on the watch surface, creating a thin film coating. In either case, this forms a thin film that adheres uniformly, providing the watch with the desired color and properties.

Post-Treatment

In some cases, an optional post-treatment stage may follow the deposition phase. This additional step further enhances the coating’s properties, such as hardness and adhesion. Post-treatment may involve exposing the coated watch to high temperatures or introducing other elements to improve its durability.

What is DLC Coating?

Often erroneously used interchangeably with PVD coating, Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating is, in fact, a subset of PVD coating, which deserves special attention due to its unique properties. 

DLC coatings are primarily composed of carbon, and as the name suggests, they possess diamond-like attributes, such as exceptional hardness and high resistance to abrasion, which are particularly useful in watchmaking for case durability and robustness. 

The DLC coating process is similar to the standard PVD process, with some modifications to achieve the desired properties of the diamond-like carbon layer. Let’s examine this further.

Cleaning and Pre-Treatment

The watch components undergo thorough cleaning and pre-treatment, as with typical PVD coating, to ensure a clean and reactive surface for the DLC coating to be applied.

Deposition

Here in the deposition stage, we see the major breakaway from the standard PVD coating technique. With DLC coating, a carbon-based source material is used instead of the prior materials (ex: titanium nitride, zirconium nitride, chromium nitride, and titanium carbonitride). 

The carbon material is vaporized using various methods, such as plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition (PECVD) or arc evaporation, as described prior. Upon vaporization, the carbon atoms are then ionized and accelerated towards the watch surface, creating a dense and complex carbon layer organized in an amorphous diamond-like structure, giving it diamond-like attributes without the high cost associated with natural diamond material.  

Post-Treatment

DLC coatings often require additional post-treatment to improve their adhesion and hardness. Hydrogenation (introducing hydrogen atoms into the carbon matrix to occupy “vacant” sites within the amorphous carbon structure) is a common post-treatment method that enhances the DLC layer’s properties, making it more stable and less prone to delamination or cracking, as well as enhancing the coating’s ability to stay firmly bonded to the watch surface. 

Differences Between PVD & DLC Coating

Composition

The primary distinction between PVD and DLC coatings lies in their composition. PVD coatings are made of various materials, which allows for a broader spectrum of color options and various degrees of hardness and durability of the finished product. On the other hand, DLC coatings are composed of amorphous carbon, making them exceptionally hard and durable, living up to the “diamond-like” nature as described. 

Hardness

DLC coatings have a superior hardness compared to PVD coatings. Diamond-Like Carbon ranks high on the Vickers hardness scale, giving watches with DLC coating an added level of scratch resistance and protection against wear. Given the atomic structure of the material, it’s likely that DLC coating will have greater resilience and less tendency to flake or wear off the watch case overall, given the same duration of time.

Thickness

PVD coatings tend to be slightly thicker than DLC coatings, which can impact the final aesthetics of the watch. While PVD coatings are more visible, DLC coatings create a sleeker, smoother finish. And while we aren’t talking centimeters or inches of difference to the astute collector or those particular with watch thickness and measurements, it’s something to consider.

Color and Aesthetics

PVD coatings offer a wide range of colors, from gold and black to rose gold and bronze. These options cater to diverse consumer preferences and design choices. On the other hand, DLC coatings are predominantly known for their striking black appearance, though some variations like gray DLC also exist.

The stark black color gives DLC-coated watches a contemporary and sophisticated charm, appealing to many watch enthusiasts, and it’s often used in both sporty or military-leaning designs, which pair well with the material in aesthetic and functionality. 

Pros & Cons of PVD & DLC Coating 

Both PVD and DLC coatings have gained popularity in the watch industry for their versatility and ability to provide both functional and aesthetic benefits to watches. Let’s consider the pros and cons you might consider when choosing a timepiece with either treatment.

Pros

• Aesthetic Versatility: PVD coatings allow watchmakers to experiment with various colors, catering to a broader range of consumer preferences and style choices. The striking black appearance of DLC-coated watches exudes a contemporary and sophisticated charm, appealing to many watch enthusiasts.

• Improved Scratch Resistance: The additional layer provided by PVD coatings enhances a watch’s ability to withstand daily wear and tear, preserving its appearance over time. DLC coatings offer an unparalleled level of hardness and scratch resistance, ensuring the watch’s surface remains unmarred for extended periods.

• Cost-Effective: PVD coating is relatively more affordable than DLC, making it accessible to a broader audience of watch enthusiasts.

• Low Friction: The smooth surface of DLC coatings reduces friction, leading to enhanced performance and longevity.

Cons

• Limited Hardness: PVD coatings are not as hard as DLC, making them more susceptible to scratches and wear in the long run.

• Fading Over Time: While PVD coatings are durable, they may fade over extended periods, particularly when exposed to harsh conditions or regular friction.

• Limited Color Options: Unlike PVD coatings, DLC coatings are predominantly black (or gray), limiting the color choices available to consumers.

• High Cost: DLC coating is more expensive than PVD, which can influence the final retail price of DLC-coated watches.

Other Types of Watch Coating

Apart from PVD and DLC coatings, several other watch coating types are available in the market, each with its own distinct attributes.

Ceramic Coating

Ceramic coatings (ex: Cerakote) offer scratch, chemical, and corrosion resistance, as well as a broad range of color options. They are durable and maintain their appearance over time, making them a suitable choice for sports and dive watches, and provide additional personalized customization when added aftermarket. 

Gold Plating

Gold plating provides an opulent appearance to watches, exuding a sense of luxury and prestige. However, it is less scratch-resistant compared to PVD and DLC coatings and may require re-plating over time (look to vintage gold-plated watches as examples). In practice, a layer of deposited gold plating can be much stronger and more resistant to wear than 12-karat or 14-karat gold watch cases at a more cost-effective price. 

Rhodium Plating

Rhodium plating in watchmaking enhances a watch’s shine and offers increased scratch resistance. It is commonly used on white gold or silver watches to prevent tarnishing, though electroplating with Rhodium will not hide surface imperfections.

Conclusion

It would be no understatement to claim that watch coatings have transformed the world of watchmaking, offering a new blend of combined style and resilience since their introduction. PVD and DLC coatings, in particular, have gained immense popularity for their remarkable properties. 

While PVD coatings provide a broader color palette and affordability, DLC coatings excel in terms of hardness and scratch resistance. Understanding these coating techniques empowers watch enthusiasts to make informed choices based on their preferences and intended use when ultimately deciding which watch to purchase. 

Yet, regardless of the type of coating in question, these innovations highlight the dedication of watchmakers in their pursuit of crafting timepieces that not only stand the test of time but also exemplify aesthetic beauty and durability in use.

 As technology continues to advance and materials improve, we can expect even more new technologies and watch coatings to emerge, further evolving the art of watchmaking. Such innovations ensure that watches remain timeless companions that complement both style and substance in our own watch-collecting journeys.

I once heard a funny watch quote that says, “With great popularity comes great counterfeiting”, which is a statement attributed to most luxury timepieces. 

After being in the business of crafting timepieces since 1875, Audemars Piguet has built a reputation for designing some of the most timeless watches to have graced the watchmaking scene, like the Royal Oak and Millenary. The high demand for AP watches comes with a very high level of counterfeiting, and the market is now filled with fake AP watches.

The increasing demand for Audemars Piguet watches has led to the success of the counterfeit market. The fake watches are made with simulated materials and with poor designs also. These fakes are often difficult to distinguish from genuine AP watches because they make them look identical to the real ones. 

About Fake Audemars Piguet Watches

The fear of being called out for wearing a fake built my interest in watches in the first place because I had to understand every piece that caught my eye. It is not a surprise that there is a fast-growing market for fake AP watches, as they are one of the most sought-after brands for producing luxury watches worldwide. 

If I were not familiar with Audemars timepieces, I would have probably bought a fake one, thinking it was the real thing, because of how popular these fakes have become in the market. 

Audemars Piguet watches are made with top-of-the-notch materials and high-level craftsmanship, these fakes are quite the opposite, and they often don’t even replicate the real versions in any way. So if these watches aren’t built like the real ones, why do people buy them?

We live in a world where having a luxury timepiece on your wrist would get you into circles you won’t dream of entering. So, many people who can’t afford a real AP settle for the fake to fit into these gatherings. Some people have little or no understanding of luxury watches, so they end up buying the fake Audemars Piguet to show it off as its real counterpart. 

Purchasing a fake AP is not a good idea for whatever reason you might have because you’re not only fooling yourself by buying a sham product, but you’re also promoting the counterfeit market.

How to Spot a Fake Audemars Piguet

Even as a watch enthusiast, I’m always critical when it comes to AP watches because of how convincing the fake ones are. These are a few factors to take note of before buying an Audemars Piguet watch:

Price of the Watch

I would be suspicious of a dealer trying to sell me an AP for $10,000, and you should too. An entry-level Audemars Piguet watch, like the 33mm quartz Royal Oak could cost around $15,000,  and the most expensive AP watches could be sold for over $400,000. It would help to be careful of watches sold for less than the retail price because most luxury timepieces tend to cost more on the secondary market than they do at retail.

Build Quality and Materials

Audemars Piguet watches are made with the finest materials like titanium, ceramic, shades of gold, and stainless steel. The brand is well-known for its choice of the highest quality materials, so buying an AP watch that doesn’t portray a very high standard of quality won’t be a good idea.

Weight of the Watch

The features and complications a watch has often determines how heavy it will be. An average AP watch with few features feels pretty heavy on my 8-inch wrist, and some models, like the new calibre 1000, have up to 40 functions with 23 complications and are a lot heavier. So being conscious about the weight of an AP you are trying to purchase might save you from buying a fake one.

Case Finish

AP watches are smoothly polished with sharp edges, and it is always difficult to meet the standard of such fine finishing on a fake one as they often have uneven finish and rough edges.

Dial

The markings and logo on the dial of AP watches are crisp and clear with the same measurements, and they do not wear or fade off. Fake Audemars Piguet timepieces often have uneven logos and markings, which can be noticed if taken note of, and they always change colors because of the substandard materials used in making them.

Watch Movement

Audemars Piguet watches come with sophisticated in-house movements and some other popular ones among luxury watches. Unlike other timepiece parts, original movements are hard to find, so a fake timepiece often has a substandard movement and can be spotted. 

Watch Bracelet

The links of AP watches are appropriately aligned and made with quality materials. The clasps of the watches are also firm and secure, with the Audemars Piguet logo engraved at the tip sometimes. The fake AP watches are often made of cheap metals with unaligned links.

Watch Documentation

Having a reputable watch dealer as a friend has come in handy more times than I can count. Checking the case back for the serial number and requesting the documents is another way of detecting a fake timepiece. And when you’re still in doubt, take the watch to a reputable watch dealer for further confirmation.

How to Spot a Fake Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Royal Oak is not just the most popular Audemars Piguet watch. It is one of the most sought-after in the world of luxury timepieces, so it is not a surprise you can find many counterfeits in the market. You must know how to differentiate between a fake and a real one if you want to buy a Royal Oak. 

These are some of the things to look out for to spot a fake Royal Oak:

Watch Bezel

The Royal Oak is known for its well-polished steel bezels, screwed down with eight hexagonal screws. These screws are spaced evenly and are well aligned. A fake Royal Oak might have a rough bezel with different shapes of screws unevenly spaced, so be on the lookout.

Watch Dial

The signature dial on a Royal Oak is made of Tapisserie, a guilloché pattern. This pattern is spaced evenly and is symmetrical; the design used on a fake one may be uneven and crooked.

Case Back

The case back of Royal Oaks is one distinct feature that makes it easy to spot a fake one. It is made of sapphire crystal, so the watch’s movements can be seen through it. Sapphire crystals are also scratch-proof, so scratches on the back can quickly give a fake one away. And the movements are always sophisticated and defect free, which is always very difficult to replicate on a fake Royal Oak, and they could be easily spotted through the transparent back.

Watch Logo

A genuine Royal Oak has a logo designed with raised gold letters. They are well-polished and clear, and they do not fade off. The logo on a fake one might be printed or stamped on the dial and have a faded or blurry look.

Serial Number

All luxury watches come with unique serial numbers, and the Royal Oak is no exemption. They can be found on the case back of each one, engraved in a consistent and prominent font. A fake Royal Oak might have the serial number printed or stamped with inconsistent and blurry fonts.

Warranty

Royal Oak watches come with a warranty when they’re bought on retail, so asking your dealer for a warranty and a certificate for authentication is a way to ensure you are getting a genuine piece. If they can’t provide you with these papers, you should probably not swipe your card for such a timepiece.

Watch Packaging

To get customers hooked at first sight, materials like suede and velvet are mostly used in the packaging of luxury timepieces. So when trying to get a Royal Oak, don’t just focus on the watch itself; take a look at the packaging for cheap materials before buying.

How to Ensure You Buy a Real Audemars Piguet 

Made up of valuable materials like gold and platinum, and having such a strong position in Swiss horological history, investing in an Audemars Piguet watch could be a great idea because most of them tend to appreciate value. But before making that purchase, there are some things you should do to ensure you are getting a genuine AP timepiece.

Do Not Buy On Impulse

Just because a timepiece looks good on the outside doesn’t mean you should jump on it immediately. Take time to compare different models to see if you can get another that might serve you better. An AP watch is a serious investment and should be carefully thought about.

Do Your Research

Learning about the brand’s history and models will help you identify a genuine Audemars Piguet watch from a counterfeit. So read about the timepiece you want to buy and also try to understand its heritage.

Make Sure You Seek the Opinion Of Experts 

Asking experienced collectors and watchmakers for their opinion on a Particular AP watch would be helpful if you are not certain about the authenticity. There are also various online platforms where the opinions of watch experts can be sought for free on watches, so make sure you are seeking the help of people that know a lot more than you when it comes to timepieces. 

Asking Your Watch Dealer for Photos and Documents

Most purchases are now made online, so asking for photos and videos of the watch would not only save you from buying a fake Audemars Piguet, but you will be able to confirm if the timepiece has any defects or damages. And if it does, you can either terminate the transaction or request for it to be changed.

Where to Buy Authentic Audemars Piguet Watches

Your first concern at this stage is looking for retailers you can trust. This considers more than just reviewing surface-level information. Thankfully, there are plenty of examples that come with a historical reputation you can trust, with Exquisite Timepieces being a great example.

Nevertheless, verification and authenticity are everything when it comes to navigating your buying decision. This includes reviewing angles like international warranties, serial numbers, third-party verification, and any related after-sales brand services.

It sounds like a lot to consider, but the right retailer will be able to guide you through every step. I always make authenticity a point in my search for any watch, as every detail matters, visual or not. Aside from that, think about what the pre-owned market has to offer. In many cases, pre-owned is just as good as brand new, just at a fraction of the original price.

For me, it’s more important to be smart about this purchase than to care about anything status-related. Think of the long term and prioritize quality and originality over fads and marketing gimmicks. Although reputable retailers exist in the world, it’s even easier to stumble across risky platforms. Speaking face to face with those who have years of hands-on industry experience is the best way to go.

Buy From A Reputable Seller

There are watch dealers authorized by Audemars Piguet to sell their watches, and these are the best people to buy from. They can provide you with a certificate to authenticate the timepiece, and you can be sure they have a return policy in place if you eventually discover any defect after purchase.

These fake watches often come with very attractive price tags to interest people. After taking these steps and you’re still not convinced about the originality of the Audemars Piguet timepiece you want to buy, you should tread the path of caution and let go of that deal, no matter how juicy it might seem, to avoid any regrets. You can also go to different buyers to compare the look of the same watch and the price. 

Conclusion

Even for experienced collectors, differentiating between real and fake AP watches might be difficult because of the effort put into counterfeit watches these days. Summarily, no guide can 100% guarantee you spot a fake Audemars Piguet, but being conscious of these factors above gives you a better chance of going home with an original timepiece.

So you’ve got your eyes on an Audemars Piguet but don’t want to sell your mid-range car to pay for it? No problemo. Many of us dream of owning one too. As an avant-garde pioneer of the luxury watch industry, the Swiss Marque belongs to an echelon dubbed “the Holy Trinity of Watches” or “Holy Trinity of Swiss Watchmaking. 

The manufacturer’s repertoire is lined up with some of the finest and most highly coveted timepieces that reconceptualize fine watchmaking. Because the brand is one of the most famous watch manufacturers in the world (right next to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin), owning an average Audemars Piguet watch will cost you from $40,000 to over $200,000.

Top-of-the-line models will even set you back around the same amount as a brand-new Porsche 918 Spyder. Good news for people who want to add a grail AP piece to their watch collection; not all Audemars Piguet watches are priced the same. You can own several fantastic cheap watches from the Swiss giant for a surprisingly reasonable investment.

Discover 8 cheapest Audemars Piguet watches on the market right now.

About Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet…please, for heaven’s sake, go back and pronounce it as “Oh-du-mahr Pee-geh” not “Oh-du-mahrs P-ih-get” It’s a silent ‘s’ ‘u’ and ‘t’. Now that you’ve gotten it right let’s move on. 

Audemars Piguet is an ultra-luxury brand whose watches are idolized in the Horological world. Famous for its rich and illustrious heritage, the watch company was founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet in Le Brassus, Switzerland. 

The founders were both skilled watchmakers and collaborated to create complicated watches with exceptional craftsmanship. They aimed to produce complete watches rather than just supplying movements to other companies, which was a common practice at the time.

In 1892, Audemars Piguet introduced the world’s first minute-repeating wristwatch, a groundbreaking achievement in watchmaking. This invention was followed by other notable complications, including perpetual calendars, chronographs, and grand complications, establishing the brand’s reputation for technical prowess.

Throughout the following decades, the brand produced a range of timepieces, including dress watches, sports watches, and high complications, cementing its position as a leading luxury watch manufacturer.

One of the brand’s most iconic models is the Royal Oak, introduced in 1972. Designed by Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak pioneered the advent of luxury sports watches. It featured an octagonal bezel secured with exposed screws and an integrated bracelet, challenging traditional design conventions.

The watch became a sensation and has remained one of the most recognizable and sought-after luxury watch models in the world.

As the brand’s reputation widened, Audemars Piguet watches increasingly got highly-esteemed for their combination of artistry, technical excellence, and a commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. 

Each timepiece reflects the brand’s unwavering pursuit of horological perfection and is considered a symbol of luxury and prestige, allowing it to command higher prices in the watch market.

Are Cheap Audemars Piguet Watches Worth It?

When it comes to AP, a cheap watch will be priced anywhere between $17,000 to $35,000. While a timepiece worth several thousand dollars should not be termed cheap, it’s pretty much on the affordable end of the brand’s luxury watch spectrum.

An entry-level AP watch is totally worth buying because, as a prestigious luxury watchmaker committed to preserving the art of traditional watchmaking, each timepiece is meticulously crafted. Not only do you add to your collection a remarkable watch that is both functional and artistic, but you also invest in something valuable that can be passed down to future generations.

All AP watches, irrespective of the price, exude tradition, expertise, and exclusivity. That being said, do not just buy a timepiece from Audemars Piguet to “buy an AP”. If you like exquisite, innovative mechanical watches of the highest quality, then buy them. The affordable price is just a bonus.

Why are Audemars Piguet Watches Expensive?

AP watches are expensive because of factors like:

• Exceptional Craftsmanship: Each AP watch is meticulously handcrafted by skilled artisans. The brand is renowned for its commitment to precision, attention to detail, and use of high-quality materials. 

The labor-intensive nature of their production process increases the cost. The brand has always been guided by the principles of quality over quantity.

• Materials: Another factor that contributes to the high cost of the watches here is the high-end materials used in their making.

From the finest precious metals like gold and platinum to innovative materials like ceramic and forged carbon, the brand ensures that its watches are crafted using the best materials available.

• Limited Production: AP maintains a policy of limited production to maintain exclusivity and preserve the brand’s desirability. 

Only about 40,000 timepieces are produced each year. As a comparison, 1 million watches leave the Rolex atelier each year, while Omega is estimated to manufacture around 500,000 timepieces each year. 

This limited availability, combined with high demand, drives prices for an AP watch higher due to the principles of supply and demand.

• Complex Movements: Audemars Piguet watches often feature intricate and sophisticated mechanical movements. The company employs highly skilled artisans, including watchmakers, engravers, and gem-setters, to create its timepieces. 

Many of Audemars Piguet’s movements are hand-finished and decorated, featuring intricate engravings, perlage, and Côtes de Genève decorations. These movements require extensive research, development, and engineering expertise, which of course, also means exclusive prices.

• Innovation and Design: Industry giant Audemars Piguet has a reputation for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking, introducing innovative designs and technologies. 

They have introduced several groundbreaking features and complications, such as the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon movement and the first-ever skeletonized perpetual calendar. 

Their watches often feature unique and complex complications, such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, or minute repeaters, contributing to higher prices.

• Brand Prestige And Association with Royalty and Celebrities: AP has established itself as one of the most prestigious and respected watch brands globally. The brand’s long history, commitment to excellence, and association with luxury and exclusivity contribute to its premium pricing. 

Its watches have, for a very long time, been associated with royalty, celebrities, and influential individuals. This association adds to their appeal and prestige. Prominent figures such as LeBron James, Jay-Z, and Arnold Schwarzenegger have been known to wear Audemars Piguet timepieces.

• Marketing and Advertising: Luxury watch brands like Audemars Piguet invest significantly in marketing and advertising campaigns to build brand awareness, maintain their image, and attract customers. As you’d expect, these costs are reflected in the final price of the brand’s timepieces.

Don’t Get It Twisted: Cheap Vs Fake Audemars Piguet Watches

The term “cheap Audemars Piguet watches” is somewhat contradictory because AP is known everywhere in the world for its exclusivity and prestige. Very cheap AP watches sold at significantly lower prices than market value are often counterfeit or replica watches.

There are thousands of fake AP watches with low prices, but please do not purchase a cheap counterfeit or replica AP watch. Here’s why:

1. Counterfeit AP watches are typically made with subpar materials and inferior craftsmanship. 

2. Counterfeit AP watches have zero intrinsic value and will never appreciate in worth. 

3. Supporting the counterfeit market not only undermines the integrity of a legitimate brand like Audemars Piguet but also contributes to criminal activities such as counterfeiting, trademark infringement, and organized crime.

8 Cheapest Audemars Piguet Watches

Here’s a list of the 8 cheapest Audemars Piguet watches you can find in the brand’s current catalog:

1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08)

First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak is one of AP’s flagship models. The watch is known for its sporty yet elegant aesthetic that combines robust construction with refined details. Celebrities are crazy about the Royal Oak collection, and the watch has been spotted on the wrist of Steph Curry, Travis Scott, Drake, Justin Bieber, Will Smith, and Serena Williams, to name a few.

The design of the Ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08 is characterized by a distinctive octagonal-shaped case inspired by a ship’s porthole. The stainless steel case with glare-proof sapphire crystal on the top measures 41mm in diameter and has a thickness of 10.5 mm.

The silver-toned “Grande Tapisserie” dial has a delicate texture with sleek hour markers, a date window at 3 o’clock, and the brand’s logo at 12′. The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 15500ST is visible through the watch’s transparent case back and is known for its precision and reliability. It retails for approximately $27,700.

2. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding (ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01)

The Code 11.59 collection was introduced in 2019 and represents a significant departure from Audemars Piguet’s traditional designs. Never mind the haters in several watch forums who complain about this icon by saying it’s boring, too simple, and lacks personality. This right here is an understated, refreshing, serene, and collected timepiece just as much a status symbol as the prestigious Royal Oak.

The Code 11.59 Ref. 15210ST.OO.A056KB.01 features a round case made of stainless steel. The case diameter is 41mm, and the watch has a thickness of 10.7mm. The case also comes with a sapphire crystal on both the front and back, providing a clear view of the movement. Featuring a green dial with white gold hour markers and luminous hands, this watch signals an audacious and resolute turn toward the future. 

It is powered by the caliber 4302, developed and manufactured in-house by Audemars Piguet. The self-winding movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz and provides a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Good news is that you can own this icon for around $25,000.

3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quartz (ref. 67650ST.OO.1261ST.01)

While the Royal Oak collection is primarily known for its mechanical watches, Audemars Piguet also offers a quartz version within the range. The quartz models feature a battery-powered movement, offering precise timekeeping and ease of use.

For a little above $17,000, you can own a piece of the legendary Royal Oak collection, which is one of the brand’s most iconic and successful lines.

The quartz Ref. 67650ST.OO.1261ST.01 features a case and bracelet made of stainless steel. The case measures 33mm across and has a height of 7mm. The black dial is very captivating and features a “Grande Tapisserie” pattern.

 “Grande Tapisserie” is French for “large tapestry”, and in this case, it describes the intricate, repetitive motif and richly textured design of the dial.

4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver (ref. 15720ST.OO.A009CA.01)

Behold an investment-worthy watch that flawlessly balances form and function. Not only is the Offshore Diver superbly elegant and luxurious, but it is also one of the most durable dive watches in the world. The timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters (1,000 feet) and features two gray ceramic screw-locked crowns and a unidirectional rotating bezel, both of which contribute to its water resistance.

As a dive watch, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver includes features that are useful for underwater exploration. It has a prominent minute scale on the dial, which allows divers to track their elapsed dive time accurately. 

The blue inner bezel with a zone from 60 to 15 minutes in white can be used to measure dive times as well, thanks to its unidirectional rotation and a luminous marker at 12 o’clock. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 14.2mm.

The intriguing “Méga Tapisserie” pattern on the gray dial is complemented by white gold applied hour-markers and luminescent hands, which guarantees legibility in the darkest and deepest of waters. It retails for around $30,000.

5. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding White Gold (ref. 15210BC.OO.A002KB.01)

The idea behind Code 11.59 is to introduce classic round timepieces that resonate with contemporary clients who are fashion-conscious. If you have a flair for ostentatious luxury watches that are good-looking without being over the top, you should consider this icon.

The Ref. 15210BC.OO.A002KB.01 is the epitome of modern luxury and comes in a sleek 41mm 18-carat white gold case. The splendor of the white gold case causes it to shine brilliantly depending on the light conditions.

Every feature of this watch is impressively detailed, and the breathtaking dial with almost no bezel is the star of the show. The smoked blue-lacquered dial with a sunray pattern base is adorned with striking white gold applied hour-markers and hands.

The watch is powered by the self-winding Caliber 4302 and comes mounted on a comfortable black rubber-coated strap with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle.

6. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin (ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02)

With such a grand display of exquisite craftsmanship and incomparable aesthetic sensibility, it’s a win-win situation for you when you get this watch for $35,000. The Ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02 pays tribute to the original Royal Oak from 1972 and features a sleek 39mm stainless steel case with a slim profile of 8.1mm thickness.

The watch is powered by the latest ultra-thin self-winding caliber 7121. This movement is known for its precision and reliability and is considered one of the thinnest automatic movements in the world.

The “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” “Petite Tapisserie” dial is decked with refined white gold hands and hour markers, providing a luxurious contrast against the dial background. It is paired with a matching bracelet that integrates seamlessly with the case. 

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26238ST.OO.A340CA.01)

We like our sports watches to be very precise, sophisticated, impenetrable, and indestructible. Thank God the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph delivers the practicalities with cutting-edge materials. The robust 42mm case is crafted from stainless steel and is accompanied by a blue rubber strap with textile decoration and stainless steel pin buckle, adding to its sporty aesthetic.

The blue “Méga Tapisserie” dial is highly detailed and features a variety of functions. We have black sub-dials with orange accents for measuring hours, minutes, and seconds at 6′, 9′, and 12′, as well as a date display at 3 o’clock.

Inside the watch, you will find the latest flyback chronograph, the Caliber 4404, with 40 jewels, 433 parts, and a power reserve of 70 hours.

8. Audemars Piguet Millenary Hand-Wound (ref. 77247OR)

Most people are well aware that Audemars can come with a hefty price tag. Even though this Millenary Hand-Wound variation retails at $35,900, used versions can range from $10,000 to $15,000. Once I was able to get an accurate cost range here, the value started to make a lot more sense.

It’s a jewel-studded design, which isn’t always my first choice, but this one is hard to look away from. Another aspect I love about this watch is how it contrasts with the popularity of the Royal Oak and Offshore models.

Both are widely popular in their own way, but the Millenary gives me much more of a unique look and feel. You can rest easy knowing the watch is supported by an AP 5201 caliber movement with a modest power reserve of 39 hours. If style comes first in your world, I’d say this watch hits the nail on the head.

It definitely isn’t built for much outdoor use, but it does act as an excellent piece to any stylish outfit. While I would say it’s more suitable for professional environments, the watch looks just fine with many casual fits as well. The 18-carat pink gold is what really sells this watch before you get into the impressive mechanics underneath.

9. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph (ref. 26393ST.OO.A348KB.01)

Need an affordable AP watch that offers the brand’s statement of power and prestige on your wrist? Look no further; AP’s got you covered with the Code 11.59 Chronograph, a watch that has discerning collectors stampeding to get their hands on it.

The large 42mm diameter of this timepiece gives us an expansive view of the striking dial. The dial is protected by a double-curved crystal that offers a magical optical effect on the watch’s face.

The thickness of the case is 12.6mm, so it certainly makes its presence known on the wrist which is a good feel.  The “Bleu nuit, Nuage 50” dial has an eccentric design characterized by a multi-layered construction, creating depth and visual interest. The watch is fitted with a rubber-coated strap with stainless steel pin buckle and retails for approximately $35,000.

Conclusion

Audemars Piguet’s unparalleled approach to watchmaking has placed it as one of the top Swiss watch brands of all time. The fact that it has remained an independent and family-owned business for almost 150 years now makes it the most traditional Swiss watchmaking company. If you value the heritage and unique identity of AP watches, don’t hesitate to add one to your collection.

All right, everybody. Here it is – a definitive list of the most appealing entry-level Swiss watches. While Swiss watches have long been synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship and prestige, I know too well that not all horological enthusiasts possess a vault filled with gold bars and that a Rolex, for many, may as well cost a trillion dollars, let alone $15,000. This curated selection of timepieces combines style, technical prowess, and, of course, affordability.

These watches serve as your gateway into the enchanting realm of Swiss horology, allowing you to find a piece of Swiss artistry for your wrist without breaking the bank. Each watch we’ll look at showcases exquisite design, impressive technical features, a price tag that won’t induce heart palpitations, and, let’s not forget, the allure of renowned Swiss branding.

Inexpensive Excellence – Entry-Level Swiss Brands

When it comes to Swiss timepieces, the pursuit of excellence need not come with a hefty price tag. In the captivating world of entry-level Swiss watches, a surprising array of brands offer buyers a chance to buy into affordable horological splendor. 

These timepieces cater to new collectors yearning for their first ‘nice watch’ and discerning individuals who appreciate a touch of horological brilliance without the burden of excessive spending. As I’m sure many of you know, sleeper hits and ahead-of-the-curve grails often reside in the least gregarious collections.

Among the distinguished brands gracing this list, we encounter stalwarts such as Tissot, a master of affordable luxury renowned for their meticulous craftsmanship and commitment to precision. 

Then there’s Hamilton, effortlessly merging American heritage with Swiss savoir-faire, offering iconic timepieces that evoke a sense of adventure and class. For those seeking a touch of sporty sophistication, Certina is a brand worth exploring, with its rugged yet refined timepieces designed to withstand the wear and tear of everyday life.

There’s a piece for every taste on this list, and if, like me, you’re prone to picking watches that make your wallet sweat, these timepieces should be a breath of fresh air.

Spotting An Affordable Swiss Watch

Swiss watches have long reigned as the epitome of craftsmanship and prestige. However, acquiring a Swiss timepiece has often been associated with a considerable dent in one’s wallet. What few people appreciate is that affordable, reliable Swiss watches exist. 

To help you navigate this vast and somewhat complicated territory, here’s a short buyer’s guide to spotting an affordable Swiss ticker.

Brand Status: The Aura of Prestige

When searching for an affordable Swiss watch, brand status plays a crucial role. Opt for brands that have a well-established reputation for quality and craftsmanship. Look for names like Tissot, Hamilton, Oris, and Certina, known for their uncompromising commitment to excellence.

Watch Purpose: Striking the Perfect Balance

Consider the purpose for which you desire a Swiss timepiece. Are you searching for an elegant dress watch for special occasions or a robust sports watch for everyday adventures? Understanding your desired watch’s purpose will guide you toward brands and models that offer the right blend of functionality and style.

Build Quality & Materials: From Craftsmanship to Durability

Affordable Swiss watches can still be of remarkable build quality, make no mistake. Pay attention to materials such as stainless steel, sapphire crystal, and genuine leather straps, which contribute to aesthetic appeal as well as longevity. Seek out watches with solid construction, precise finishing, and attention to detail. Don’t forego discernment just because you’re not spending thousands of dollars.

Swiss Movements: The Heart of Precision

One of the defining features of a Swiss watch is its movement. Be cognizant of timepieces powered by Swiss movements, such as ETA or Sellita, renowned for their accuracy and reliability. These movements are the core of every Swiss watch, so be sure to understand exactly what’s inside the case before buying.

The Best Affordable Swiss Watches

Taking all the aspects above into account, here are the 20 best affordable Swiss watches you can buy today:

1. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439931)

Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical is a timepiece that pays homage to its iconic 1960s predecessor while embracing Hamilton’s military heritage. This 38mm stainless steel marvel boasts a matte finish, exuding a rugged elegance that captures the essence of a soldier’s watch.

The Khaki Field Mechanical’s dark dial sets the stage for luminescent numerals and indexes, ensuring legibility in any light condition. Its vintage-inspired design transports you back to an era when timekeeping was an art form and functionality was paramount. Protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, this timepiece is built to withstand the rigors of daily wear.

The durable NATO strap adds a touch of military flair, while the 20mm lug width ensures a secure and comfortable fit on your wrist. Hamilton’s H-50 movement is undoubtedly the most impressive part of the watch, exclusively crafted for the brand’s hand-winding timepieces.

With its remarkable 80-hour power reserve, this movement guarantees unwavering reliability, even during periods of non-wear. This Khaki Field Mechanical is a masterpiece that seamlessly blends heritage, craftsmanship, and reliability.

It’s the perfect companion for watch collectors and horologists who appreciate a touch of military-inspired sophistication on their wrists. The watch can be yours for $595.

2. Omega X Swatch Moonswatch Mission to Mars

Here’s a celestial tribute that captures the fiery spirit of the Red Planet (as well as the attention of every watch nerd on Earth, apparently). Vibrant red hues ignite against the Moonswatch’s radiant white dial and velcro strap, creating a mesmerizing visual contrast that’s as colorful as anyone could imagine a watch being.

This chronograph treat features a captivating interplay of colors and shapes. The red chronograph seconds hand commands attention, while the hours and minutes subdials showcase unique spacecraft-shaped hands in a playful nod to interstellar adventures.

Every dial proudly displays the OMEGA X SWATCH branding, alongside the iconic Speedmaster logo and the new MoonSwatch emblem. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, this timepiece boasts a glass construction with a “hidden” S ingeniously integrated into the crystal’s center.

The dial’s outer ring and subdials exhibit a refined circular pattern, while the lugs are unobtrusive and precise by design. A distinctive ‘dot over 90’ detail adorns the tachymeter-scaled bezel – no detail has been overlooked in this collaborative effort. But the magic doesn’t stop there.

The Moonswatch Mission to Mars case is fully (and uniquely) Bioceramic, further elevating its intrinsic value. Additionally, Super-LumiNova coatings grace the hour markers, hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds hands, ensuring a captivating glow in even the darkest of cosmic moments. But, make sure to only purchase it at or close to its original price point of $260.

3. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 (ref. T137.407.11.351.00)

Tissot’s PRX is a timepiece that combines the unapologetic boldness of modernity with a familiar sense of retro charm. Designed around authentic ’70s visual prompts, this watch is something of a standalone in its price bracket.

With a timeless Tissot case shape from 1978, the PRX Powermatic 80 exudes elegance and sophistication. But don’t be fooled by its retro allure, for this timepiece is equipped with twenty-first-century features that cater to the demands of the modern individual. There’s a reason it became the hottest-trending watch on TikTok this year.

At the heart of this marvel lies the self-winding Powermatic 80 movement, a testament to Tissot’s reliability and precision. With the innovative Nivachron hairspring, this movement ensures exceptional accuracy and unwavering performance bolstered by an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.

The 40mm diameter showcases the watch’s commanding presence on the wrist, while the see-through caseback allows a glimpse into the intricate inner workings of a budget masterpiece. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, enhanced with an anti-reflective coating, protects the dial, ensuring both durability and pristine visibility.

As a bonus, the PRX Powermatic 80 features an interchangeable quick-release bracelet, allowing you to effortlessly tailor your watch’s fit in an instant. What’s not to like? If you’re looking to get your hands on the Powermatic 80 version, expect to pay around $675.

4. Certina DS Action Diver (ref. C032.607.11.051.00)

This is a timepiece that delves into new depths of contemporary watchmaking. With exceptional precision, remarkable water resistance, and a dynamic design, this maritime companion is built to explore underwater worlds. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the robust case of the DS Action Diver is certainly durable.

The bezel, also made from 316L stainless steel, features a ceramic insert adorned with Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal visibility even in the darkest depths. Protected by an antireflection-treated sapphire crystal, the dial boasts a captivating black hue, further enhanced by the Super-LumiNova’s ambient glow, creating a striking contrast against the oceanic backdrop.

This diver’s watch adheres to the hardline ISO 6425 standards, guaranteeing its reliability underwater. With a diameter of 43mm and a height of 13mm, it commands attention on the wrist while maintaining a balanced presence. Powering the Action Diver is the automatic Powermatic 80.611 movement.

Swiss-made and equipped with Nivachron technology, this movement delivers precise timekeeping by combining the expertise of ETA with Certina’s commitment to excellence. Ultimately, this is a no-frills, bash-about diver that’s not afraid of a challenge. You can get this beautiful watch for around $1,000.

5. Frederique Constant Classics Index Automatic (ref. FC-303NS5B6)

Introducing the Frederique Constant Classics Index Automatic, a timepiece that breathes new life into classic watchmaking while staying true to the brand’s mission of accessibility.

The 40mm stainless steel case showcases a refined matte finish, while the dial, available in pure silver or delicately detailed with guilloché decoration, is adorned with either traditional Roman numerals or modern applied indexes. This fusion of classic and contemporary elements creates a tangible sense of agelessness. Full of verve and fuelled by classical sensibilities, the Classics Index Automatic features a 20mm lug width and a water resistance rating of 5 ATM.

Completing the ensemble is a calf leather strap with nubuck finishing and a captivating crocodile pattern in a rich brown hue. This strap adds a touch of refinement and comfort, making it a pleasure to wear on the wrist in ways that its humble price tag doesn’t at first suggest. The watch comes with an approximate market price of around $950.

6. Victorinox I.N.O.X. Mechanical (ref. 241837)

If you’re after a full-metal sports extravaganza, the Victorinox I.N.O.X. Mechanical is worth a look. Crafted with a high-grade stainless steel case, this Swiss-made marvel exudes strength and attitude. The bezel is somewhat angular, and its anti-scratch coating ensures long-lasting pristine beauty.

For added protection, a removable bumper guards this timepiece against any issues presented by everyday wear. The bracelet, crafted from patented stainless steel, is a thing of exceptional resilience and a true testament to Victorinox’s commitment to quality. With dimensions of 43mm in diameter and a height of 14mm, this timepiece isn’t for slender wrists.

The 21mm lug width ensures a secure and comfortable fit, further enhancing the overall experience of wearing such a sturdy watch. At the INOX’s heart lies the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, visible through the translucent exhibition case back. It serves the piece faithfully, with a date function to boot.

From the polished-brushed bezel to the guilloché-finished dial, every detail of this timepiece is a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. Luminescent hands ensure optimal legibility in any light condition, while the date function adds practicality to its charm. At just $995, there’s little reason not to consider this Victorinox.

7. Ball Fireman Enterprise (ref. NM2098C-S20J-BK)

The Ball Fireman Enterprise is a suave and rigid timepiece in all of the best ways. At the watch’s heart beats the automatic calibre BALL RR1103 movement, built on the tenets of Swiss precision and reliability. With 15 micro gas tubes marking the dial’s track of the hour, minute, second hands, this watch ensures exceptional night reading capability, illuminating the darkness with a mesmerizing glow.

Built to withstand the most demanding conditions, the Fireman Enterprise boasts shock resistance of 5,000Gs, ensuring unwavering performance even in the face of impact. The stainless steel case, which is an utterly approachable 40mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height, exudes strength and style. Protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial is a sight to behold, available in either black or white, a no-nonsense palette if ever there was one.

Completing the ensemble is a stainless steel bracelet with a folding buckle. Every detail, from the screwed-in crown to the meticulous crest at the party end of the seconds hand, exemplifies a watch that punches above its weight stylistically. And all that for just $1,080.

8. Zodiac Olympos STP 1-11 (ref. ZO9712)

One of my favorites on this list is the Zodiac Olympos STP 1-11, a timepiece that skirts the boundaries of conventional horology in an altogether pleasing way. The 40mm case, crafted from stainless steel in a sleek silver hue, exudes both strength and timeless appeal.

Complemented by a brown leather strap measuring 20mm in width, this timepiece embraces the perfect fusion of comfort and traditional aesthetics. The automatic three-hand movement powers this horological gem, ensuring precise timekeeping and a touch of mechanical marvel.

With a dial color in a gradated grey and an offset crown, the Zodiac Olympos STP 1-11 is far more appealing than its price point implies. There’s a world of field watch-inspired beauty on the Olympos – I highly suggest trying it on and exploring that world yourself! It won’t even cost you too much, at just $895.

9. Doxa Sub 200 Professional (ref. 799.10.351.10)

The Doxa Sub 200 Professional is an extraordinary timepiece that pays homage to the brand’s rich heritage while embracing contemporary innovation. Unveiled at Baselworld 2019, this diver’s watch exudes a captivating blend of style and functionality.

Crafted from the highest-quality 316L stainless steel, the 42mm case speaks for detailed craftsmanship and durability. Topped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal featuring an anti-reflective coating, it embodies the distinctive curvature of the domed plexiglass reminiscent of yesteryears. With a water resistance rating of 20 ATM (200 meters), it lives up to its ‘professional’ title as far as diving goes, at least.

Driven by a Swiss mechanical automatic movement, the Sub 200 Professional offers a power reserve of 38 hours, operating at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz). The stainless steel bracelet, styled in the iconic ‘Beads of Rice’ design, ensures a secure and comfortable fit.

Equipped with a folding clasp featuring the exclusive Doxa fish logo, it adds a touch of spice and functionality, including a dive suit extension for underwater adventures when a wetsuit is a must. The Doxa Sub 200 comes with a retail price of $990.

10. Mido Baroncelli Heritage Gent (ref. M027.407.16.010.00)

Introducing the Mido Baroncelli Heritage Gent, crafted for watch collectors and horologists who appreciate classic design. The round case, measuring 39mm in diameter, exudes a harmonious balance on the wrist, with an average thickness of 7.3mm.

Crafted from stainless steel, this timepiece’s case is nothing extraordinary. However, there’s something very endearing about how the sharp hands and cursive script on the dial lie in contrast to the minimal, round case. The sapphire crystal, enhanced with a double-sided anti-reflection treatment, protects the white dial and ensures pristine visibility from any angle. With a see-through case back option, this starts to feel quite high-end very quickly.

The dial features applied indexes, adding depth and sophistication to its design in a pleasantly reductive manner. The date function offers practicality, while the Mido Automatic ETA movement keeps everything reliably on time. Prices for the Baroncelli hover around the $1,000 mark, but you might be able to get it for slightly less if you shop around.

11. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300, a watch that takes the iconic Trident template and elevates it to new heights, looks and feels like much more watch than most of its peers. Created based on customer feedback from the Christopher Ward forum, this remarkable timepiece embodies the desires of so many watch enthusiasts.

With a slimmer and lighter design, the C60 Trident Pro 300 offers enhanced wearability without sacrificing practicality. The two-part unidirectional ceramic bezel features a perfectly engineered “click” mechanism. The dial showcases larger indexes with increased luminosity, accompanied by the distinctive twin-flags logo at noon.

Available in three case sizes and four captivating colors, including a military-inspired olive-green option, this watch offers a variety of choices to suit individual styles. The redesigned marine-grade steel bracelet features an extended taper, micro-adjustment, and an enhanced quick-release system, while strap options offer even more versatility.

Powered by the esteemed Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, this watch delivers good time, on time, every time. There’s a lot to get excited about here, and for just over $1000, you’ve got every reason to pick up a Trident Pro 300!

12. Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Heritage (ref. AL-525BBG4SH6)

Replete with vintage charm, the Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Heritage is a watch that will appeal to the hipster and old-world tastemaker in each of you.

Powered by the precise AL-525 calibre automatic movement, the Pilot Automatic Heritage showcases 26 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. The brushed and polished 2-part case, with a diameter of 44mm and a height of 11.55mm, is large but practical, topped by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that protects a black matte dial, featuring beige minutes and seconds on an outer ring and beige 24-hour indices on an inner circle.

The applied silver Arabic numerals, treated with beige luminescence, add a touch of elegance and legibility. The dial also features a date window at 3 o’clock, complemented by the silver hour and minute hands with beige luminescence, as well as a silver seconds hand with a distinctive red triangle. Completing the look is a brown calf leather strap that adds to the overall vintage aesthetic of the watch.

Limited to just 1888 pieces, the Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Heritage is a collector’s dream. Its combination of vintage charm, exceptional craftsmanship, and limited availability make it a true gem for watch enthusiasts. You can get yours today for around $1,500.

13. Longines Hydroconquest 39 (ref. L3.741.4.56.6)

The HydroConquest 39 almost needs no introduction, given that it’s one of Longines’ most famous watches. It’s a timepiece that combines sporty elegance with exceptional craftsmanship to the long-held pleasure of admiring fans and collectors.

The round stainless steel case, measuring a demure 39mm in diameter and 11.9mm in thickness, is wearable for most wrists. Water-resistant to an impressive 30 bar, to say that the HydroConquest 39 is built for pressure is to state the obvious. The screw-in crown, protected by distinguished and angular crown guards, ensures added security, while the unidirectional rotating bezel allows for precise time tracking.

The sunray black dial is a touch of sophistication, complemented by plump, applied Arabic numerals and indexes that enhance legibility. A great final touch is the stark red hue of the tip of the seconds hand. This particular reference varies in price, but generally, you’ll find it for around $1,000 to $1,500 brand-new.

14. Formex Essence Leggera Forty-One Arctic White

Introducing the Formex Essence Leggera Forty One Arctic White, a horological masterpiece that defies conventional boundaries and embodies the epitome of innovation and featherweight aesthetics.

Weighing an astonishingly light 40g (1.4oz), the case is artfully hewn from carbon fiber composite, yielding a harmonious fusion of delicate structure and a sensuously smooth touch. This proprietary in-house creation redefines the pinnacle of modern artisanship. What’s more, the scratch-resistant Zirconium Oxide ceramic bezel and crown are testaments to the understated value of this piece.

Pioneering breakthroughs such as the patented Micro-Adjustment and Case Suspension Systems ensure an unrivaled level of comfort on the wrist, elevating the Essence Leggera to a realm of pure wrist-borne delight.

The Sellita SW-200-1 automatic movement sits at the Leggera’s core, an embodiment of both unwavering accuracy and unyielding dependability. Each movement undergoes the rigorous COSC certification process, attesting to its extraordinary mechanical accuracy and precision.

The updated Leggera collection unveils an array of resplendent dials. Revel in the choice of an ultra-thin forged carbon fiber dial, each boasting a distinctive and exclusive pattern. Alternatively, choose the Arctic White, Mamba Green, Electric Blue, or Cool Grey dials. Either way, the watch will set you back around $1,800.

15. Baume & Mercier Classima 10708 (ref. M0A10708)

If there were an award for ‘Most Trippy Dial’, it would go to the Baume & Mercier Classima 10708. Their wavy, peacock-blue chevron dial design evokes a sense of motion that greatly compliments the otherwise simplistic, luminous numerical details present on the watch’s face.

Driven by a self-winding movement and boasting an impressive 38-hour power reserve, this watch guarantees exacting precision. The 42mm stainless steel case provides ample space for the dial to flourish, with rhodium-plated leaf hands denoting the time in a classy fashion. The Classima 10708 perfectly balances sophistication and legibility, rendering timekeeping a seamless experience.

As if one iteration of this watch isn’t enough, thanks to its two interchangeable straps (a suave light grey fabric strap embellished with a captivating chevron pattern and a dark brown alligator skin strap), you effectively get two versions of the same ticker. Effortlessly swap between them using the reliable spring bar system, allowing for boundless customization and self-expression. And all of this for just $2,300.

16. Monta Atlas GMT Blue Dial

Sporty with a touch of Medieval chic, the Monta Atlas is nothing if it isn’t an interesting timepiece. Powering the Atlas is the MONTA Caliber M-23, a self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor. This Swiss-made movement is meticulously manufactured, assembled, and tested in Switzerland, and the rhodium-plated diamond-cut sword-style hands, filled with Super-LumiNova, provide optimal legibility even in low-light conditions. 

What stands out, though, are the pointer ends of the GMT and seconds hands, which hark back to knights of the Middle Ages, for me, at least. Adding to this feel is the company crest, visible on both the dial and crown. The Atlas bracelet features a quick-adjust clasp with three slots for micro-adjustment, allowing for wrist bloat on sweaty summer days.

The exclusive blue dial of the Atlas boasts a multidimensional rehaut and applied indices, making it practically useful and visually pleasing. The lacquer finish adds a wet appearance, while the red text and GMT hand tip infuse a sporty touch that elevates the Atlas to new heights.

Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the Atlas case features a screw-down crown and a sapphire caseback with engravings. It may be one of the more expensive watches on this list, at $1,950, but as a value proposition, it’s impossible to overlook.

17. Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (ref. 01 754 7741 4065-07 5 20 63)

Revitalizing the essence of the everyday wearer, the 40mm stainless steel encasement of the Oris Big Crown emanates a timeless allure. Its meticulous multi-piece construction guarantees a sense of tangible joy, while the stainless steel screw-in security crown caps off the watch with an air of refinement. There’s nothing complicated about this watch – it’s just a beautiful timepiece that gets that job done.

The Oris 754 automatic winding pointer date movement breathes life into this horological wonder, commanding absolute precision in timekeeping. Crafted in-house and derived from the distinguished SW200-1 foundation, this Swiss-made marvel showcases central hands for hours, minutes, and seconds, accompanied by a date center hand (the coolest thing on this entire list) and instant date functionality. The fine-timing device and stop-second mechanism amplify the Big Crown’s performance considerably.

A captivating blue dial adds a splash of elegance to this timepiece, capturing attention with its charismatic charm. The ensemble finds completion in a distinguished dark brown leather strap, a final nod to traditional watch-craft sensibilities. If you’re only looking to ever own one watch for around $1,950, the Big Crown would (secretly) be an excellent choice!

18. TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic (ref. WAZ2011.BA0842)

One of the weightier watches on the list, TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 Automatic is a timepiece that combines precision, functionality, and the spirit of motorsports to deliver a solid mass of chronological drive.

At its heart lies the robust TAG Heuer Calibre 5 movement, a three-counter mechanism that boasts professional-level timekeeping functionality. The F1 Automatic’s anthracite grey dial, a perennial favorite among racing fans, grounds the watch in a level-headed space, allowing the unidirectional 60-minute turning bezel, crafted from unscratchable black ceramic, to provide all the sporty flair that you’d expect from a racer like this. 

The 3-row brushed steel bracelet not only enhances the watch’s aesthetic appeal but also ensures durability. It features a double safety folding clasp, preventing accidental opening, and a ‘Driver’ extension for comfortable wearing over a racing suit.

Although it’s usually at the higher end of any budget watch selection, the F1 Automatic’s build quality, undeniable strength, and hard-won reliability make it more than worth the $2250 that it’ll cost you. Racing suit not included.

19. Tudor 1926 (ref. M91650-0005)

The Tudor 1926 is an exceptional timepiece that fits the bill of a dress watch and casual daily accessory all at once.

The polished 41mm steel case radiates sophistication and sturdiness, safeguarding the self-winding mechanical movement of calibre T601, an in-house movement renowned for its reliability. The steel screw-down winding crown, adorned with the iconic TUDOR logo in relief, adds a distinctive touch of refinement, and with a water resistance of 100m, this remarkable watch is even cut out for wet terrain.

A smooth steel bezel, polished to perfection, accentuates the 1926’s sleek allure, while an opaline dial, gracefully embossed and gently domed, is colored by striking blue numerals and hands which dance over the patterned face.

The steel bracelet, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, features 7 rows of satin-brushed external links and polished center links, offering both comfort and style. Its folding clasp and safety catch guarantee a secure and worry-free wearing experience.

Backed by a five-year transferable guarantee, the Tudor 1926 brings buyers peace of mind and long-lasting delight without the need for registration or periodic maintenance checks. It’s truly a watch for refined yet adventurous tastes. And it can be yours for just $2,100.

20. Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic 42 (ref. AI6008-SS000-630-5)

Building upon the triumphant legacy of the AIKON quartz, this automatic model is a more appealing alternative for movement geeks such as myself. Enveloped in a 42mm stainless steel case and shielded by a sapphire crystal featuring an anti-reflective coating, the AIKON Automatic emanates an aura of panache.

The captivating blue sun-brushed Clous de Paris dial, adorned with rhodium-plated, white SLN indexes and hands, has unrivaled legibility and a nuanced touch of sophistication. Accompanied by a stainless steel strap featuring an effortless strap exchange mechanism and secured by a butterfly buckle, this timepiece ensures both comfort and confidence.

At the core of the AIKON resides the automatic ML115 movement, which orchestrates impeccable timekeeping, gracefully indicating hours, minutes, seconds, and a date display at the 3 o’clock position with great accuracy.

The AIKON Automatic proudly exhibits meticulous embellishments, including resplendent vertical Côtes de Genève and sun brushing on the rotor, accompanied by the opulence of rhodium plating, perlage, and colimaçon finishing.

This might all sound a bit pretentious, but these exquisite details elevate the watch’s aesthetics overall and bear testament to Maurice Lacroix’s unwavering dedication to crafting timepieces that don’t equate ‘cheap’ with ‘affordable’. All in all, you get an excellent Swiss-made timepiece for around  $2,000.

21. Raymond Weil Tango 300 GMT (ref. 8280-ST2-20001)

If you’re looking for something affordable that still dons that Swiss quality, you can’t forget about the Raymond Weil Tango. More specifically, I’d like to point out the men’s 300 GMT, which is much more impressive up close.

Even though it’s a bit on the bigger side for me with a 42mm case, I still find myself enjoying how it looks. The combination of a black and grey anodized aluminum bezel and the band’s seamless craftsmanship gives it a really professional look.

I always generally prefer an exhibition case back, but I have to admit the uniform look of the screen down variety looks great on the 300 GMT. While the case might be on the larger side for some people, I feel it compensates by including an 11mm case thickness. As I always like to say, balance can make for a really good look and feel with a timepiece.

That’s what I feel like any wearer will get out of the Tango 300 GMT from Raymond Weil. Of course, most importantly, you can find it retailing at $1,425. If you know anything about quality watchmaking, that isn’t a harsh price point by any means.

23.  Swatch Sistem Snow 

Swatch is a company that tends to fly under the radar. People don’t seem to be talking about this brand enough, as it often gets overlooked by other Swiss-made designs. Swatch prides itself on delivering innovative, high-quality pieces that, in my opinion, should get far more recognition. 

The Sistem Snow is a perfect testimony to the kinds of watches they produce. Fit with a 42 x 50.6mm stainless steel case and a striking, elegant, snowy silver dial, this watch is reminiscent of a crisp winter day, capturing the beauty of the frigid temperature. The dial is multi-directionally brushed with thin silver hands, and the strap is a sharp white, all serving to reinforce the wintery aesthetic. I tend to gravitate toward watches that focus on a singular color pallet as I often find beauty in the simplest of designs. The white and silver aren’t flashy or loud; they quietly do their part and effectively boost the watch’s look and feel. 

At the heart of the Snow is the Sistem51 movement, a staple for Swatch automatic watches. Sistem51 is the only movement in the world comprising only 51 parts with an entirely automatic production process. It powers the Snow with a 90-hour power reserve and exceptional anti-magnetic qualities, giving it an accuracy rating of -5/+15 seconds per day. 

And the best part is that the snow is quite affordable as well, with a comfortable price tag of $225.00

Don’t Look A Swiss Horse In The Mouth

From the precision of Swiss movements to the allure of elegant designs, I hope that this curated list has provided a glimpse into the world of accessible horological excellence. We explored a diverse range of brands, each with a unique story and approach to watchmaking. 

Whether it’s the heritage-inspired Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, the sporty and reliable Certina DS Action Diver, or the sophisticated and timeless elegance of the Frederique Constant Classics Index Automatic, there’s a timepiece to suit every style and budget.

Remember, owning a Swiss watch doesn’t have to be a distant dream. With the right knowledge and guidance, you can embrace the world of Swiss horology without falling into financial ruin. So, whether you’re a seasoned collector or an aspiring watch enthusiast, venture forth with confidence and find yourself an affordable Swiss timepiece!