Category: Watch Reviews

James Bond isn’t just a beloved agent of His Majesty’s Secret Service: he’s a style icon for men across generations and a watch-brand ambassador like no other. And from lounging by the pool to elegant soirees, 007 shows us how alluring the right timepiece can be, no matter the occasion.

And Bond doesn’t just demonstrate what to wear – he shows you how to wear these watches. 

If you want to look like you’re always ready for action, a sophisticated party, or a romantic evening with a stunning partner, 007 has a watch option you’ll love to make your own.

Let’s take a closer look at Bond’s iconic watches across the franchise.

Gruen Precision 510

Dr. No’s introduction of Sean Connery as Bond is immediately recognizable. Suave, seductive, and in control, Bond deals a few hands of baccarat – specifically the Chemin de Fer variant – allowing him to play tete-a-tete against the stunning Sylvia Trench.

“Le Cercle’s” guests are impossibly elegant, and Bond pairs his black tux with a Gruen Precision 510 on an onyx fabric strap. 

The simple, clearly legible Gruen is more than a dress watch: it’s a field watch for high society, a timepiece that reveals the man of action beneath all that luxury. Understated in its size – the case measures just 34mm – the 510 features a manually-wound 17 jewel movement, a brushed case, and Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9.

Manufactured from 1958 to 1972 by the now-defunct American watchmaker, 510s in running order fetch prices starting in the high $700s. And while perhaps not as iconic as the Omegas and Rolexes of later films, the Gruen Precision 510 is the most elegant of the franchise’s wristwatches.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538

Picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12svc3q7TJS2vh-9qQB_yRPWlCSDFclre/view?usp=sharing

Bond’s penchant for action means that a dress watch just won’t do – at least not while he’s in the heat of things. And reflecting Ian Fleming’s own taste in timepieces, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 was chosen as a working timepiece for 007.

The 6538 is the Submariner, and its distinctive stainless case, dial, and unguarded but oversized crown, hit just the right notes as the Bond theme plays in films like Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger. Paired with a wide variety of straps and bracelets, the 6538 demonstrates its flexibility from scene to scene and movie to movie.

Rugged and ready, but a far cry from a laborer’s timepiece, the Rolex Submariner was an essential bit of kit for Bond, often customized by Q-branch in ways that allowed 007 to escape certain death.

Manufactured from 1956 to 1959, this model cemented the allure of the Submariner in the minds of the public. And iconic as it is, working models fetch prices easily into the six figures.

Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002

For the plot of Thunderball, Bond required a watch fitted with a Geiger counter, and Q-branch was happy to oblige with a modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002.

The film’s prop department heavily modified the case of the Breitling, providing it with a sturdy, massive case that’s perfectly fitting, given its purpose. 

A black dial wearing tachometer markings and silver subdials at 3 and 9, makes this a striking wristwatch for more casual wear in the film, and it’s just as at home shooting clay pigeons as it is infiltrating a secret base underwater.

Unfortunately, as a unique piece, you can’t get your hands on the original, but a modern Top Time runs roughly $4,250.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513

The 6538 began Bond’s love affair with the Rolex Submariner, and he was more committed to this brand and model than any woman featured in the films.

On Her Majesty’s Secret Service found Lazenby wearing the (now) more contemporary 5513, often on an Oystersteel bracelet – and just as often equipped with powerful magnets, a buzz-saw bezel, and other upgrades courtesy of Q.

And while those added extras were pure movie magic, the 5513 was the real deal: a rugged, durable, no-nonsense tool that told the time with style to spare. 

This Rolex, more than perhaps any other, has come to typify what we expect from a dive watch: a rotating bezel with minute increments marked up to 15, tan/gold markings on the dial and hands, and a chunky stainless steel case measuring a big 44mm, especially in 1974, when gentleman’s timepieces were almost always more svelte.

No longer produced, the 5513 in good shape can fetch upwards of $13,000, a testament to its lasting appeal.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6238

Picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/13hZPsCJRUhmVQT7IEZLFGu7eDB6AvTDM/view?usp=sharing

In On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Bond goes undercover, and his watch reflects that. Posing as a respected genealogist, Lazenby’s wrist introduced a more elegant Submariner, the stunning 6238.

Without downplaying Bond’s flair for adventure, this silver-faced chronograph in stainless steel on a matching, two-toned brushed and polished bracelet did something new: the red seconds hand was modified by Q-branch to serve as a compass, allowing 007 to find and infiltrate Blofeld’s secret lair in the Swiss Alps.

And while not as flashy as a buzz saw, that modification was no less essential for Bond’s mission.

Discontinued in 1968, this beautiful wrist watch showcased small subdials and all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a fine chronograph, and its undeniably cool vibe and manly aesthetics paved the way for the Daytona of legend.

Expect to pay somewhere in the neighborhood of $40,000 for a pristine example.

Hamilton’s Pulsar P2 2900

While automatic movements are the standard of luxury now, the 1970s witnessed the rise of quartz technology and some very forward-looking designs that sought to introduce wider audiences to high-end quartz watches.

Among them, count the Hamilton’s Pulsar P2 2900, a chunky wrist watch with a red LED display. On Roger Moore’s wrist in Live and Let Die, the Hamilton oozed high-tech with a sleek, futuristic design.

Billed as revolutionary, this quartz watch had no gears to wind, no springs to wear out, and required no tuning to achieve startling accuracy – just split-second time on demand. 

That practical simplicity (despite the very real idiosyncrasies of setting the time) resonated with Bond’s readiness for action and sparked a brief challenge to the dominant position of high-mechanical horology.

Discontinued almost a lifetime ago, vintage P2s are available for as little as $500.

Seiko 0674 LC

Introduced in 1976, just in time for The Spy Who Loved Me, the Seiko 0674-5009 continued the trend toward futuristic design and quartz simplicity.

Worn by Roger Moore, this timepiece was more about pushing Q-type tech into the foreground, especially for a viewing public unfamiliar with horological developments at the time. Clean, forward-looking, and easy to read, the Seiko’s stainless case and bracelet looked like something 20 years in the future, leapfrogging traditional wrist-watch aesthetics.

Its functions included time, seconds, light, date, and weekday indicators, just what you need as you move from country to country and time zone to time zone, often in just hours.

Long since discontinued, the Seiko 0674 LC is available in good condition for roughly $450, and its retro appeal is still strong among fashion leaders.

Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar

While probably not a watch we would now consider fitting for the always-stylish Bond, Seiko’s M345 Memory Bank Calendar, like the 06774 LC, was a gesture toward emerging horological technology. 

Quartz accuracy, and the bells and whistles it made possible, were still exciting and new when Moonraker debuted on screen, and the space-themed adventure demanded something more than analogue simplicity.

The M345 delivered this in spades, offering calendar and memory functions, as well as impeccable digital time. A rare watch in 1979, it’s even harder to find now, and working examples are difficult to come by. 

Expect to pay a minimum of several hundred dollars for this wearable piece of Bond history.

Seiko 7549-7009 “Golden Tuna”

As Bond races the Russians to recover the British Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator (ATAC) from a sunken submarine in For Your Eyes Only, it’s only fitting that he be equipped with a capable, handsome dive watch. This 1981 film sees Seiko’s legendary “Golden Tuna,” a striking timepiece by any standard, on 007’s wrist.

Capable of saturation diving and sporting a quartz heart in a machined titanium case, the Golden Tuna is as rugged as it is attractive, much like Bond himself. Flashier than the Omegas and Rolexes that typically grace the silver screen, this wristwatch marries a professional-grade tool to an adventurous agent like almost nothing else.

And the eye-catching gold details, a clean diver’s style dial, and 600m water resistance combine to make this a quartz watch that tempts even the most die-hard fans of high mech.

If you’re tempted by the “Golden Guna,” you’re not alone, and rest assured that they keep immaculate time to this day. A quick search will find this legendary model at prices starting around $2,000.

Seiko H357 Duo Display

The early 80s witnessed plenty of love for Seiko timepieces in Bond films, and the H357 Duo Display graces 007’s wrist for most of the film in For Your Eyes Only. 

And while showcasing what was unbelievable tech for the time, the H357 is the most understated and attractive of the digital watches Bond is equipped with in this period, matching his Q-branch modified Lotus for cool without missing a beat.

The H357 Duo Display, as its name suggests, offers both an analogue and digital display. Driven by a quartz movement, accurate time was reliably on hand while wearing this watch. The Seiko used in the film was reportedly modified by the prop team, so a perfect match with the original isn’t possible.

And as you’d expect, this model is hard to come by. Pristine examples command prices in the mid-$300s to high $400s, when you can find them.

Seiko G757 Sports 100

Roger Moore’s Bond was as loyal to Seiko as he was to Queen and country, and 1983’s Octopussy found 007 jousting again with the Russians and a nuclear threat. 

Continuing the trend toward the high-tech, he was equipped with the amazing Seiko G757 Sports 100, tricked out by Q-branch to include a digital locator. An important tool for Bond’s mission, this Seiko receives more than its fair share of close-ups as he hunts down a Faberge egg.

Time, date, alarms, stopwatches: the digital G757 was a step in the direction of modern timepieces like the Casio G-Shock, and one glance at the divided digital dial makes their kinship obvious.

Rare and prized, authentic models of this watch still command prices in the neighborhood of $500, a hefty sum for a more than 40-year-old digital timepiece.

Seiko Chronograph White Dial 7A28-7020

Quartz technology was evolving rapidly in the early 1980s, and while digital displays were seen as the future, the Seiko Chronograph White Dial 7A28-7020 recaptured the look of analogue elegance with a stunning white dial and subdued sword hands showcased by a polished steel body.

Several subdials, the usual tachymeter markings, and pushers to actuate its features mark this watch out as special, and 007 makes full use of its undeniable good looks in A View to a Kill. From rescuing Stacey Sutton to seducing her in good time, Bond’s watch is every bit as precise, sexy, and capable as the spy himself.

Expect to pay a reasonable premium for this beautiful vintage watch, with pristine examples commanding prices in the mid-$600s.

Seiko H558

1985’s A View to a Kill offered its audience plenty of stunning Seikos, and the H558 continued the high-tech trend toward digital-analogue combinations with a look that’s just as fresh now as it was then. And while “quartz chic” may be something of an oxymoron these days, there’s no question that this vintage Seiko looks every bit the Bond watch.

Designed along the same general lines as the Seiko “Tuna,” the H558 is a bit sleeker, adding cool details like a day/date digital window to the timeless appeal of the Seiko diver’s dial. 

Rugged, dependable, and ready for action, the H558 on Bond’s wrist was the perfect choice for 007’s daring adventures.

This Seiko in running order starts in the $400s, but mint examples can go for as much as $800 depending on the auction.

Seiko 6923-8080

Any real Bond aficionado knows that 007’s mastery of style comes down to carefully chosen, timeless essentials, and the two-tone Seiko 6923-8080 is a perfect timepiece for everything from business to pleasure, which for the spy could mean pairing this striking watch with a sport coat and khakis (complete with cravat).

The steel case, two-toned president bracelet, and elegant dial ooze class and sophistication, while still signaling excitement. A quartz analogue, the 6923-8080 draws inspiration from the Rolex Datejust, sounding just the right notes of old-moneyed taste.

This is certainly a choice that men can still be proud to wear, and this Seiko hasn’t lost a step in the intervening decades since its release.

Excellent examples command prices in the mid-$300s, making this an affordable option for those looking for a refined look that demands respect.

Rolex Datejust

Roger Moore’s personal Rolex Datejust also appeared in A View to a Kill, making its debut in the scene in which Bond finds a very dead Sir Godfrey Tibbett in Zorin’s Rolls Royce. 

Whether this was an intentional choice or not, the return to Rolex in this scene represents a change in direction for 007’s timepieces. Out are the Seikos and quartz movements; back are the automatics from Rolex and other premium European brands.

The two-toned Datejust, featuring Roman numerals, a cyclops-style lens over the date, and an elegantly decorated bezel and crown, matches Bond’s sense of classic fashion perfectly. This Rolex, perhaps more than any other watch to date, typifies the 007 aesthetic.

This model still attracts attention from collectors and wearers alike, and you can find nice examples starting at around $5,000.

TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dive Ref. 980.031

Timothy Dalton took the helm as Bond in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and the opening sequence sees him wearing a black TAG Heuer Professional Night Dive. 

This deep black timepiece shows a luminous dial to fantastic effect, and like the other dive watches of the franchise, this one is as lovely as it is capable. 

Introduced when physical vapor deposition was still a new tech, these timepieces tend to show their wear, but when pristine, they offer a luxuriant black backdrop for what was and is a real show-stopper.

The Bond-specific model is very hard to find, and despite its use of a quartz movement – the last of this kind of 007 – it still runs roughly $2,000 in good condition.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800

Dalton returned in 1989 as 007, with a Rolex Submariner 16800 gracing his wrist. Unfortunately, the model has confused some fans, as his stunt double wore a very similar model, sans the cyclops date window.

But Bond flexed his inimitable style with the last Rolex (so far) of the franchise. And like the dive watches of previous films, “the spy who loved watches” was able to dress up or down this striking timepiece.

A matte dial, an unpolished case, and perfectly applied lume strike just the right balance between elegance and action, connecting Connery’s Submariners to the Omegas to come.

One of the rarer models, given its short production run, the 16800 is very hard to find, and prices can skyrocket for mint examples at auction, with some examples fetching as much as $175,000!

‍Omega Seamaster Professional Ref. 2541.80

Q-branch may have taken some time off from advanced gadgetry during the late 1980s, but GoldenEye witnessed not only a dramatic shift to Omega from Rolex and Seiko, but also the return of fantastic timepiece features like lasers.

Pierce Brosnan’s Bond marks a new era for 007’s wrist, and the Omega Seamaster Professional gestures to the Submariners and Seikos while charting a course of its own. This quartz-driven diver appears with both a black strap and the standard steel bracelet, allowing its dazzling deep blue dial to do the talking. 

A uniquely machined bezel draws the eye, and while taste is largely subjective, I think this Omega is nothing short of beautiful, a memento from an era when quartz tech was reshaping the industry and its brands.

This vintage Seamaster Professional can be had for roughly $2,000 at auction or from reliable resellers.

Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2531.80.00

Brosnan would continue to showcase Bond’s new love for Omega, wearing a newer model Seamaster in each of the next three installments: Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), 

The World is Not Enough (1999), and Die Another Day (2002).

This Seamaster retained the aesthetic of the earlier watch, but offered rhodium plating and a mechanical movement in place of the stainless steel and quartz. Responding to the trend of luxury watches to embrace high-mech and skip the simple quartz movements, 007’s wrist allows horological history a place on the silver screen.

As attractive a choice now as it was two decades ago, his Omega can be found for fair prices in the mid-$2,000s.

Omega Seamaster 300M Co-Axial 2220.80.00

Omega seems to have captured Bond’s heart for longer than any of his female co-stars, displaying remarkable loyalty to the brand.

That makes a lot of sense when you step back a bit. 

Omega knew they were on to something with the styling of the Seamaster, and it comes as little surprise that, at first glance, Daniel Craig’s Bond seems to be wearing the same timepiece as Brosnan. 

But a deeper dive into the watch gracing his wrist in much of Casino Royale reveals a new, rhodium-plated co-axial movement under the hood, an upgrade to be sure from quartz as well as the mechanical movement of the 2531.80. 

But while the beating heart of this watch may be changed, the panache and presence of the Seamaster carry the Bond mystique perfectly.

Carefully tended examples can fetch prices as high as $4,000 for this model, a fair price for an iconic timepiece.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.30.42.21.01.001, 2900.50.91, and 2201.50.00

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean spends a lot of screen time on Craig’s wrist over the next films, keeping its clean look and the co-axial movement that sets the real players apart from the pretenders, just as Bond does at the poker table.

A black dial, clean, uber-legible markings, and understated straps and bracelets lend these Seamasters a quiet confidence and the good looks to attract the eye of the beautiful Vesper Lynd.

Returning to the elegant simplicity of the early dive watches of Connery’s Bond, the Planet Ocean is simply stunning, working as well with casual clothing as it does with 007’s formal evening attire.

These vintage watches can be found in excellent condition for several thousand dollars.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Ref. 231.10.42.21.03.003

Craig’s Bond is a more stripped-down, hard-edged version of 007 when compared to Moore, Dalton, and Brosnan, and the choice to equip him with the Aqua Terra in Skyfall reflects this.

Perhaps the most attractive of the spy’s sport watches – at least to my eye – the Aqua Terra showcases a beautiful manufactured and finished dial, elegant legibility, and a case and bracelet that are at home whatever Bond is up to: fleeing assassins, car chases, gun fights, or just looking effortlessly cool against exciting backdrops.

It harkens to an error when watches were signature tools, necessary equipment for keeping meetings, promises, and deadlines. Sleek, elegant, sexy, and daring, the Aqua Terra isn’t just for show; its heart is the co-axial calibre 8500, a refined, luxurious movement that keeps impeccable time.

If you need a watch that looks as good on your wrist as it does on screen, your search has ended. The MSRP for this watch from Omega is $6,000.

Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001

Bond’s military experience is essential to believable action sequences, and when pressed to his limits, you’ll find 007 sporting a special Omega Seamaster 300. Omega released this timepiece in a limited series, explaining why they can be hard to find on the used market.

Fitted with a five-stripe black and gray NATO strap, the black face, 12-hour bezel, and vintage Super-Luminova coatings draw a direct line to the spy’s history while staying fresh and new. Powered by the exciting co-axial 8500 movement, long gone are trerh days of quartz movements, digital displays, or fancy gadgets.

More forceful than the Aqua Terra, and clearly more commando-inspired by design, this Seamaster is ready for anything SPECTRA can throw at Craig. 

Models in pristine condition can fetch prices in the high-five figures.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

Picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Zf5d_eRTt34ZWtL5x7bH4P0Gp50jkEI3/view?usp=sharing

Finally, we come to 007’s latest watch, an Omega designed with the help of Daniel Craig. The 007 Edition of the Seamaster Diver wears a brown tropical aluminium bezel ring and dial over a titanium case and mesh bracelet (or a NATO strap).

Powered by the co-axial master chronometer 8806, the subdued tones and feather-weight materials speak to wearability, function, and rugged dependability, without sacrificing the aesthetics that draw the eye to the Seamaster.

No Time to Die is probably not the end of Bond, or his love for Omega watches, and if you can’t live without this 007 memento – or its legendary cool – it’s available from the manufacturer for just $10,600 (with the bracelet).

Conclusion

From Dr. No’s Gruen Precision 510 to Skyfall’s Aqua Terra, Bond captured the essence of manly style with a sophistication that’s never stodgy. Braced for action, but charmingly refined and elegant, 007’s wrist has showcased more than a few horological treasures.

Among these iconic timepieces, you’re sure to find a few that capture your imagination and enhance your sense of style.

A solid gold watch has often been regarded as a memento marking an important milestone in a person’s life. That was especially the case in the mid-20^th Century when gold watches were relatively more accessible and affordable than they are today.

If you say “solid gold watch” now, many think only of elusive and extravagant 18K Rolex Daytonas or Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oaks. Good luck purchasing one of those for the retirement party honoree!

However, gold is still timeless and desirable. So what’s a gift giver to do?

Fortunately, all is not lost. There are still ways to buy a relatively “cheap”  gold watch, even an 18K one, especially if you’re open to smaller dress watch styling, quartz movements over mechanical, and leather straps.

Allow me to be your guide by showing you some options. At the end, I think you’ll see you don’t have to be a monarch with megabucks to still enjoy gold, “the money of kings.”

Things to Know Before You Buy

Keep in mind that “cheap solid gold watch” is a relative term.

For instance, a retail price of $12,000, which will serve as our starting point, is relatively much “cheaper” than ones above $20,000 where so many popular well-known brand offerings reside today.

However, you might be surprised to discover that some 18K gold watches can be found for under $3,000—and I promise to get you into that range before we’re done!

Remember that “solid gold” is a bit of a misnomer.

The technical term is “gold alloy,” meaning that 18K (K=karat, a unit of measurement indicating purity) “solid gold” will typically consist of 75% pure gold, with the rest other materials such as silver, copper, zinc, palladium, or even platinum, depending on whether it is yellow, white, or rose in color.

Recognize that an 18K option from an entry or mid-level “affordable luxury” brand like Tissot or Longines is more likely to yield affordable and accessible options, especially in the new, unworn category.

Pre-owned and vintage pieces will open more doors in the sub-$10,000 range, even with iconic brands like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Phillippe.

Above all, make sure the watch is solid gold and not gold-plated if you want the distinction of owning the “real deal”!

Top 12 Modern 18K Gold  Watches Under $12,000

This Top 12 list of new, unworn solid 18K solid gold watches will assume a budget of $12,000 or less and will count down from most expensive to least. Read all the way down for the “cheapest” award winner!

12. Omega De Ville Trésor Sedna Gold Quartz 36mm (ref. 428.58.36.60.02.001)

I was surprised to discover a 36mm 18K gold watch from renowned brand Omega for under $12,000. A slender 8.9mm thick, this reference is not only composed of the brand’s proprietary Sedna™ “rose gold” alloy but also has diamond paving along the sides of the case, as well as a small diamond set in its highly polished crown.

The dial color is lacquered silver and it has rose gold Roman numeral indices and handset. The crystal is domed sapphire, and the caseback is solid with a mirrored finish and engraved floral pattern—it’s technically from Omega’s “Ladies Selection”, but there’s nothing stopping the right fellow from pulling it off.

The strap is grey alligator leather, and the movement is Omega’s quartz caliber 4061. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $11,600.

11. Nomos Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39 (ref. 1180)

This elegant dress watch is executed in an 18K rose gold case with wire lugs that is 38.5mm in diameter and 8.4mm thick. It has a domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire display caseback which showcases the beautiful in-house automatic Caliber DUW 3001 with a power reserve of 43 hours.

The dial is simple and clean and is galvanized, white-silver plated with round, gray hour indices (larger ones at 3,6,9, and 12 o’clock), and smaller ones with Arabic numerals every 5 minutes in the minutes track. The hands are rose gold, and there is a small seconds subdial in the 6 o’clock position.

The strap is 19mm cordovan brown Horween leather with a 19mm width, rose gold winged clasp, and quick-change spring bars. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $10,920.

10. Tank Louis Cartier, Small Quartz (ref. WGTA0342)

The Cartier Tank has been a symbol of understated luxury and good taste since 1919. This one has an 18K yellow gold, 29.5mm x 22mm Art Deco-style case with the  vertical brancards and beaded crown with blue sapphire cabochon that lend the watch its classic aesthetic.

The dial is silver-grained and Cartier-branded with Roman Numeral indices and the familiar “tank tread” minutes track. The hours and minutes hands are sword-shaped and blued steeled. The thickness is a super slender 6.35mm including the mineral crystal.

The strap is light brown alligator leather with an 18K yellow gold tang buckle. It is powered with a highly accurate quartz movement—and since there’s no seconds hand, no one at the soirée will notice it’s not automatic! Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $10,200.

9. Longines Master Collection 38.5mm 18K Pink Gold (ref. L2.628.8.78.3)

As you’ll see, Longines offers several accessibly priced 18K gold watches. This first one has a 38.5mm diameter, 9.2mm thick, 18K pink gold case with both a sapphire crystal and display caseback. The dial is silver with a fine “barleycorn” textured pattern that adds an extra touch of class.

The hour markers are painted Art Deco-style Arabic numerals, and there is a date window at 6 o’clock. The chapter ring is a minutes track with different-sized hashes combined with hashes Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals.

The handset is blued steeled. The caliber L888 movement beats at 25,200 bph and has a long-running 72 hr. power reserve. It comes on a brown alligator strap with white stitching and a triple safety clasp with a push-piece mechanism. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $8,600.

8. Baume & Mercier Clifton (ref. 10802)

Baume & Mercier has been around since 1830 but remains somehow of a sleeper brand for many people. Still, the recently launched and handsome satin-finished 18K rose gold Clifton deserves high praise. It has a 39mm diameter, 11.5mm thick case capped with a domed sapphire crystal and display caseback.

The cross-hair dial is silvery-white with a grained finish, a black minutes track, along with rose gold trapezoid-shaped indices (Arabic Numeral at 12) and alpha-shaped hands. There is a discreet date window at 6 o’clock that enhances both symmetry and functionalism.

The movement is the self-winding Baumatic  BM13-1975A which beats at 28,800 bph and boasts a whopping 5-day power reserve. The strap is red-brown alligator leather with a steel Ardillon buckle and quick-change feature. Water resistance 50m/164ft. Retail price: $8,500.

7. Ball Trainmaster Standard Time 18K (ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH)

The Ball brand was founded in 1891 by Webb C. Ball who investigated the head-on collision of two trains near Lipton, Ohio and helped create standardized time.  Now Swiss-owned, Ball celebrates its railroad heritage with a script “RR” emblazoned on every dial.

This reference has an 18K rose gold case measuring 39.5 in diameter and 10.5mm in thickness, covered with a sapphire crystal and display caseback. The white enamel dial is adorned with Arabic numeral hour indices and lumed with tritium gas tubes.

There is a date window and small seconds subdial, at 3 and 6 o’clock, respectively. The spade, syringe, and arrowhead handset is blue steeled and lumed.

It is paired with a brown leather strap and powered by the COSC-certified RR1105-C. Water resistance is 30m/100ft.  Retail is $8,249 but is currently discounted to $6,929.16 at Exquisite Timepieces.

6. Longines Evidenza (ref. L2.142.8.73.2)

This timepiece is 18K pink gold and has an Art Deco-style “tonneau”-shaped case that measures 23mm x 30.6mm in diameter and is 8.5mm thick. It has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective coating and a solid caseback. 

The dial is silver and has a stunning sunburst “flinqué” pattern created by guilloché engraving and translucent enamel. The handset is blue-steeled and matches the distinctive blue crown tube.

The hour indices are painted black Art Deco-style Arabic numerals, the handset blue steeled, and there is an unassuming but handy date window at 6 o’clock. It’s paired with a brown alligator strap with white stitching and a tang buckle.

The movement is the automatic caliber L592 which beats at 28,800 bpm and has a power reserve of 45 hours. Water resistance is 30m/110ft. Retail price: $7,550.

5. Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.512.8.75.2)

The Dolcevita line has been increasing in popularity, especially since actor and brand ambassador Jennifer Lawrence has been spotted wearing one on her wrist. Still, like the Cartier Tank, its rectangular Art Deco case shape and classic styling have cross-gender appeal as well.

This reference in particular gives off some “masculine vibes” with its black leather strap complimenting the no-date, black matte sector dial with painted pink gold lines and Roman numeral indices and white, inner chapter ring minutes track.

The 18K pink gold case has a wrist-conforming curve and measures 23mm x 37mm in diameter with a 7.2mm thickness.

The handset is pink gold-colored with hours and minutes sword hands and a small baton hand for the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.  The movement is the quartz caliber L176. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $6,700.

4. Longines Elegant 37mm (ref. L4.787.8.12.4)

This reference is a quintessential “thin gold” dress watch, 18K pink gold with a vintage-sized 37mm diameter case, wired 19mm wide lugs, and a svelte 8.1mm thickness.

The matte white dial has only Longines print and the winged hourglass logo in the top half, and “Automatic” in the bottom half, for an unadorned, yet “Elegant” look as the name suggests. It has both a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and display caseback.

A date window sits at 3 o’clock. Hour indices are applied, baton-shaped and paired with a painted peripheral minutes track. The strap is black alligator with a triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism.

The caliber L888 movement has a guilloche, rose-gold colored rotor with “Longines” script and a winged hourglass skeletonized cutout, along with a 72-hr. power reserve. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $5,450.

3. Tissot Excellence 18K Gold 40mm (ref. T926.410.16.291.00)

I told you I’d find some 18K gold options for under $3000, and here we are! The Tissot Excellence is simply stunning, and the first item that grabs your attention is its  gradient “chocolate” brown-black dial.

The solid 18K yellow gold case’s 40mm diameter is a more modern dimension, but the thickness measures in at a svelte, vintage-like 5.85mm for an easy slide under the cuff.

Its gold-colored, no-lume handset and indices also exude a more retro vibe, and the only print is the” Tissot” and “1853” at the top and “Swiss Made” at the bottom edge, giving it an exceptionally clean look.

The matching black, alligator-style leather strap is a versatile 22mm width. There is 30m/100ft The movement is a Swiss quartz. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail: $2,995.

2. Tissot Goldrun 18K Gold 38mm (ref. T922.410.76.011.00)

This Tissot no-date, classically styled, 18K rose gold reference has that 38mm diameter  “sweet spot” size that fits a wide variety of wrists. However, it’s very thin (only 4.9mm!) which makes it ideal for formal occasions and long sleeve shirts.

The dial is white with no-lume, gold-colored indices and sparse branding which leaves a lot of pleasing negative space. The date window at 3 o’clock makes it a practical everyday piece, especially if your work requires business casual attire or above.

Other desirable features include a sapphire crystal, and a black  leather strap with a 20mm width, making for easy strap swap-outs. It has a Swiss quartz movement with a battery end-of-life (EOL) indicator that causes the seconds hand to jump every 4 seconds when a new one is needed. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $2,595.

1. Tissot Goldrun Hesalite 18K Gold 34mm (ref. T71.3.401.31)

Drumroll please . . . our winner of the “Cheapest Solid 18K Gold Watch Award” is the Tissot Goldrun Hesalite! It projects an early 60s Mad Men retro look with its 33.7 case diameter, 6.55 thickness, silver colored dial, and domed, warm-toned, acrylic Hesalite crystal.

You can dress this one up for formal events, but with its date window at 3 o’clock and Super-LumiNova® lumed, gold-toned handset and indices, it can also function as a daily driver that still looks good with a tee shirt and jeans.

The strap is black, alligator-style leather and has an 18mm width. It is powered by a reliable and accurate quartz movement powered with an EOL indicator and runs on a Renata 371 battery. Water resistance is 30mm/100ft. Retail: $2,200.

Honorable Mention

Although I’ve focused on 18K gold, I’d be remiss if I didn’t also mention a 14K choice that stands out: the Hamilton Ventura Quartz Gold/Limited Edition ref. H24311730.

At  $11,000 dollars retail, it’s more pricey, but in return you get an “Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii–Men in Black (MIB)” classic with the triangular, early 60s “atomic age” case shape that is sure to draw attention and serve as a conversation starter.

“Solid Gold” Reflections

When I retired as an optometrist, I didn’t wait for anyone to give me the proverbial “gold watch”.  Instead, I bought myself a $2,500 1961 vintage “birth year” watch, a 34mm stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a 14K gold, engine-turned bezel to commemorate my career.

Paired with a premium leather strap, it receives more compliments than any other watch in my collection despite its unassuming looks and vintage size.

The bezel’s ultra-fine, engraved stria are worn to a smooth luster on the left side, a reminder of a previous owner who wore the watch so much their long sleeve shirt cuffs “left their mark”.

Such “honest wear” is an important chapter in a watch’s story, one accentuated by a soft, precious metal like gold. It’s a reminder for me to leave my own “mark” in this life by living honorably and well.

Steel and other metals are awesome in their own right, but reflections like that are “solid gold”.

It’s not for nothing that the tourbillon is considered the pinnacle of watchmaking craftsmanship. Every brand has to have one to be considered true haute horlogerie. Some will even make them an integral part of their identity—think Jaeger-LeCoultre’s spectacular gyrotourbillon or Breguet’s superb dual tourbillon watches. 

There’s something viscerally fascinating about watching the stately rotation of a tourbillon. It’s almost unimaginably complex and nearly impossible to craft and hand-finish. It should come as no surprise, then, that these watches are usually accompanied by high 5-figure price tags—or even upwards of $100,000!

And yet what IS surprising is that just a handful of these beautiful tourbillons go for much less. No, you won’t be picking up a true tourbillon for $100-200. As a matter of fact, if you see something advertised as such with that cheap of a price tag, it’s almost certainly a fake tourbillon. 

So what if you’re looking for a beautiful watch featuring this stunning complication but without the financial means to get your hands on one of the 5-figure stunners out there? Look no further than this list.

History of the Tourbillon

The tourbillon is one of the oldest and most exceptional complications in watchmaking, so it should come as no surprise that it was invented by the greatest watchmaker to ever live, Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801.

Indeed, it actually predates the wristwatch by over 100 years, as it was first featured in pocket watches. As you may be aware, the tourbillon’s central purpose is to cancel out the effects of gravity on a watch’s accuracy. 

It contains the entire escapement in a cage that typically rotates once every 60 seconds, thus completely neutralizing gravity’s pull by canceling it out over the arc of its positions. You can easily imagine why this makes a lot of sense for a pocket watch, which spends most of its life nestled in the same position relative to the ground in your pocket. 

Shockingly, the tourbillon actually serves little to no purpose in a wristwatch, since it’s in constant motion and so gravity won’t have quite the same effect on it. In this context, it’s mostly just for show, a display of true craftsmanship and elegance. But after all, isn’t that the purpose of a mechanical watch today anyway?

Today, tourbillons have been carried to an extreme in terms of development and accuracy. I mentioned the superb Jaeger-LeCoultre gyrotourbillon earlier: this little contraption takes up not much more space than a normal tourbillon and yet is able to rotate in 360 degrees over all three axes in 3D space.

Jacob & Co is also notorious for its use of gyrotourbillons, and their Astronomia movement is practically one massive tourbillon itself as it rotates everything around in the case.

But what about the tourbillons we’ll be seeing on this list? As it turns out, many of the best tourbillons for the price today were crafted by Olivier Mory, an independent watchmaker who owns BCP Tourbillons and makes these movements himself in his La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop. 

He’s one of the most brilliant minds in the industry to be able to make these movements for so much cheaper than anyone else. It’s also definitely worth checking out his own watch label, Skill Watches, which he runs with his brother Thomas. The other tourbillons on the list are supplied by the Chinese brand Seagull, a bit lower quality than the BCP Tourbillons movements but quite advanced and beautiful nonetheless.

Let me wrap up with a final note about some of the tourbillons we’ll be seeing on this list, which aren’t pure tourbillons per se but rather what is known as a “karrusel.”

The karrusel is a type of tourbillon that’s simpler to make and, to put it simply, involves a few extra gears to help rotate the tourbillon cage.

A lot of brands will call these “co-axial tourbillons” to try to cover up that they’re actually karruseles. That said, these are still exceptional watches and functionally tourbillons, so they should not be disdained for not being “pure” tourbillons.

The 10 Best Cheap Tourbillon Watches

As I said before, you won’t be able to get your hands on a tourbillon for super cheap (though we do have one item on the list for sub-$1,000… stay tuned!), due to their advanced craftsmanship. That said, on this list you can find 10 truly exquisite tourbillons, all at a significantly reduced price compared to the average tourbillon. Let’s get right into it!

Frédérique Constant Manufacture Classic Tourbillon FC-980S3H6 – $15,695

Frédérique Constant is known for offering high-quality watches at prices that are significantly more affordable than those of other Swiss brands.

In this case, their Classic Tourbillon is more expensive than most of the other options on this list, but it’s absolutely worth every penny and much cheaper than it has any right to be. Unlike the other watches here, the tourbillon movement is developed in-house by FC, not purchased from another supplier. 

And for that matter, it’s absolutely gorgeous: just take a look at the blued screws and bright blue escape wheel visible through the tourbillon window at 6:00!

The rest of the watch is incredibly restrained and elegant, with beautifully shaped and finished applied indices and exquisite alpha hands—my favorite type. With a 39mm case and just 11mm thick, it’s super wearable. 

Flip it over and take a look through the exhibition caseback while you’re at it—could you ask for anything more than the perlage, Côtes de Genève, blued screws, and engraved skeletonized rotor at this price? 

Xeric Halograph Tourbillon Collector’s Edition Emerald – $2,000

Xeric is known for their characteristic display style, which features the hours and minutes printed on the dial so that the time is indicated by the halo hands that encircle it. Even more impressively, the numbers are also printed with lume, so you’ll be able to read the time just fine in the dark, too. 

The rich emerald color is absolutely stunning, especially thanks to the variety of finishes over different sections of the dial. As for the tourbillon itself, it’s left ample room to be appreciated thanks to the hemicircular time indicator, and it certainly merits such appreciation. 

Xeric doesn’t specify what movement they use, but it looks to my eyes to be a Seagull-made tourbillon, which is certainly supported by the price. At just $2,000, it’s a shockingly affordable piece for such unique, eye-catching style and class.

Peacock Climber Tourbillon Green Dial – $2,788

The Climber Tourbillon is much sportier than the other two we’ve looked at here, which allows it to play to a totally different niche in terms of collector interest. The design is clearly inspired by Hublot, with the rubber strap and “porthole”-esque screws, but it’s not an overt homage since the screws aren’t in Hublot’s characteristic H shape. 

The dial is quite eye-catching in its rich alpine green shade with a Clous de Paris guilloché-style finish. And the power reserve at 12:00 is a unique style that’s quite sporty and legible.

However, I must admit that I’m not a fan of all the extra screws that are present on the dial, some seemingly randomly dotted throughout and others supposedly holding down all the subdials. They feel distracting and take away from the elegance of the guilloché pattern.

As for the tourbillon movement, it’s the caliber SL5215D, which has automatic winding and is a karrusel-type tourbillon. The tourbillon itself looks lovely through its 6:00 aperture with some pretty decent finishing to give it a luxurious shine. It checks all the boxes for me!

BA111OD Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon – $8,670

I love onyx dials. They’re so rich and dark in a way that even black enamel can’t quite capture. Now pair the classy black onyx with a superb tourbillon from Olivier Mory, and you’ve got a recipe for a stunning watch for the finest of black-tie occasions.

It’s 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick, so it’s pretty wearable for a stone-dial tourbillon and should slip under a shirt cuff with relative ease. 

The back of the dial also features what BA111OD calls a “mirror film” and says it will reflect the upper face of the movement, but I’ve struggled to observe this in any pictures—perhaps it’s just one of those things you need to see hands-on with the watch.

Interestingly, as our friends at Fratello have pointed out, the movement itself is rotated in the case so that the crown is positioned at 4:00 instead of 3:00 and the tourbillon at 7:00 instead of 6:00.

I’m not a huge fan of this choice, as this feels like a watch that should have been kept a little more traditional due to its class and charm, but it is certainly interesting and shows more intentional design than merely slapping a stone dial over a tourbillon dial and calling it a day. 

The movement itself is a caliber BA.01, based on a tourbillon by Olivier Mory, which is manual-winding and has a whopping 100-hour power reserve. Its striking black finishing can be admired through the exhibition caseback, and certainly should be!

Horage Autark Tourbillon Salmon – $15,300

Horage is a little-known independent brand that’s been shaking up the industry much more than most people know with their new MicroReg system.

While this watch doesn’t feature that (unfortunately, because MicroReg with a tourbillon would be insane), it’s still a superb sporty tourbillon, definitely worth your attention. It’s practically perfect in size at 39.5mm by 9mm thick, and as an integrated sports watch, it’s sure to find some love for its sporty design. 

The dial is in a gorgeous salmon color with an unusually-placed power reserve indicator at 11:00, which introduces a few pops of color. The bezel is brightly mirror-polished and stands out beautifully atop the brushed case.

The movement is Horage’s caliber K-TMR, a superb tourbillon with micro-rotor winding. This watch isn’t cheap, but for a micro-rotor tourbillon, it’s incredibly affordable.

Thanks to its micro-rotor, it’s just 3.6mm thick, which helps keep the rest of the watch thin and wearable. The 60-second flying tourbillon is made from titanium and weighs just 0.29 grams. And just look at the blacked-out bridges, with hand finishing! Truly an exceptional watch for its price.

CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition – $3,999

CIGA Design is a little-known Chinese designer watch brand with a strong multinational team of designers that produces shockingly affordable watches. In this case, their homage to Mount Everest is incredibly striking and beautiful.

Let me get this out of the way first—a tourbillon is one thing, but a central tourbillon is another altogether, and is usually reserved for the upper limits of haute horlogerie.

The hands, of course, are shaped like mountaineers’ picks, which makes reading the time very difficult and probably makes scaling Mount Everest much easier. 

The watch was released to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the summit of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary, so the first four flags atop the mountain are hung from the minutes hand: Britain, Nepal, India, and the United Nations.

The base of the dial, believe it or not, is actually crafted from stones taken from the base of Everest, and the strap is textured in a similar style. Overall, it’s a watch that is full of little winks and careful design inclusions, making for a playful and well-made timepiece.

Agelocer Tourbillon Men’s New Hollow Gold Mechanical Watch Ceramic Bezel Blue Gold – $999

Sure, this watch might not have the best name. It also might not be quite your style. But for $999, with that lovely combination of white on rose gold on blue, I can’t help but let it tug on my heartstrings a little.

And after all, its design was crafted by Étienne Ruffieux, who has worked for brands like Zenith and Parmigiani Fleurier. It also received awards at the Europe Design Awards and French Design Awards. 

Still not convinced? Just look at the superb level of skeletonization Agelocer has achieved here, even with a movement featuring two barrels and a flying tourbillon.

A lot of brands cite architecture as the inspiration for their case, but in this case, it’s actually believable if you examine the faceting of the case and the contrast of brushed and mirrored surfaces.

Inside, the watch runs on the caliber 9001, which uses two barrels to create an 80-hour power reserve. The flying tourbillon is elegant, but I do wish they had treated the balance wheel with a rose gold finish so that it doesn’t stick out quite so much in yellow gold. That said, it sure does make for an eye-catching appearance.

Sugess Tourbillon Master SU8230SW – $659

This is it. Does it really get any cheaper than this for a real, functioning tourbillon? I personally believe it’s the cheapest decently-made tourbillon out there. It’s classy, clean, and simple. Mirror-finished case, white enamel dial, and printed Breguet numerals. 

The Breguet hands aren’t the best, but they’re still elegant and simple even if they’re not totally faithful to the original style. The crown is a little large and a little too fluted for my taste, but it is helpful for the manual-wind movement.

And then we get to the movement. Just look at that 6:00 tourbillon. To be fair, this is a karrusel, supplied by the Seagull ST8230.

But that is a real, honest-to-goodness tourbillon for under $700. You’ve even got a decent effort at finishing with blued screws and some sort of radial Côtes de Genève-esque finishing on the bridges. That is a whole lot of watch for not a lot of cash.

BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. – $9,200

The T.V.D. is much like the Onyx Tourbillon I covered earlier in this list, but a little more expensive and with a totally different style. It’s sporty, fresh, and modern.

The entire case has received a DLC treatment to make it a lovely tantalum gray finish, which works beautifully with the blue accents on the dial.

The skeletonized dial puts Olivier Mory’s fine craftsmanship on full display. All the stats are the same as the Onyx Tourbillon, except for one thing, which I want to linger on for a moment, as I’ve never seen it before in watches. 

The T.V.D. features a sapphire crystal with special NFC technology that is only in the crystal, so the entire rest of the watch is perfectly mechanical and traditional.

This is supplied by the Swiss brand STISS, which I’d never even heard of until I stumbled across this watch while researching this article.

They specialize in specialized sapphire glasses with different technological advancements, including their Augmented Glass (which has contactless payment technology) and in-development Key Glass, which will provide your authentication for crypto and NFT services. 

The T.V.D. features its simpler ID glass, which creates a totally unique digital signature for the watch. The crystal can be scanned with your phone just by holding it in close proximity, and immediately, information about the watch is available at your fingertips, making it almost impossible to counterfeit.

In my opinion, that’s a major advancement in the true spirit of the tourbillon: making the watch truly unique and exceptional.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T CAR5A90 – ~$10,000

All the other watches on this list are from small brands or Chinese manufacturers. A watch like this, from a big-name Swiss brand, with a chronograph and tourbillon, for significantly less than other brands.

Now the prices for many of these models have been raised on TAG Heuer’s website to around $30,000 (those darn tariffs).

But here’s the real kicker—you can pick up a TAG Heuer CAR5A90 for a market price of a hair over $10,000 on the secondhand market, and can even find some as low as $7,000. For context, the Omega Speedmaster, a perfectly standard chronograph with no tourbillon, runs for over $7,000. That is insane value.

But wait, there’s more! The chronograph in this watch uses a column wheel, which is the most complex and luxurious way of doing it.

And allow me to remind you that none of the other watches on this list could do anything beyond the tourbillon and an occasional power reserve. It also has 65 hours of power reserve and automatic winding. 

Now for the mic drop moment: the Heuer-02T is COSC-certified, so it’s accurate to an insane -4/+6 seconds per day. That is the true spirit of a tourbillon: focusing on precision above all. This just might be the ultimate everyday wear tourbillon for its price.

Conclusion

A good tourbillon watch will never be cheap, but price doesn’t need to be a barrier to adding one of these horological marvels to your collection. Yes, they won’t all run perfectly forever or keep perfect time like a tourbillon from one of the finest Swiss brands. 

But if you’re just fascinated by that little spinning cage, never fear—there are options for you, my fellow watch nerd.

Mission: find field watches under $1000 that don’t look like cheap trash on the wrist. Easy-peasy. If you’ve been typing things into your Google search like “affordable field watches” or “What are the best cheap field watches on the market?”, you’ve stumbled upon this blog post by no mistake.

Accessible field watches are everywhere on the market; you just need to know where to look. The problem is that there’s still a huge stigma circulating in the watch world that budget watches are no good. It simply isn’t true.

Yes, buying a high-end luxury field watch will ensure a premium look and feel, offering a blend of superior materials, better resistance to the elements, and an overall better quality build.

But what if I were to tell you that you can still find good resistance, legibility, performance and reliability in a budget field watch that will cost you no more than $1000?

If you’re scoffing at the idea, stick with me for another couple of minutes. I’m going to prove that affordable field watches are out there, that they’re a thing, and that you can have one for less than a rack.

Why Everyone Needs a Field Watch

The very essence of a field watch is its simplicity. This watch style has a rugged charm and no-frills design that makes it perfect for quickly glancing at the time, no matter where you are or your situation.

In fact, it’s easy to see the qualities that both a pilot’s watch and a field watch share. Both are robust and highly legible, focusing on the essentials while retaining a disciplined aesthetic.

Above all, field watches make for great everyday watches because their designs focus on reliability and consistency. They’re often made from high-grade materials like steel, titanium or ceramic and are fitted with mechanical, quartz and solar-powered movements, giving modern-day collectors lots of variation.

Although we often think of the fundamental basics of a field watch as having an Arabic numeral hour track, modern-day iterations can include sector dials, stick indexes, and even California dials.

Above all, however, field watches should live up to the demanding scenarios they may find themselves in, so toughness, luminosity and a suitable level of water resistance are all important.

Now that we know what field watches should be, let’s take a look at what we can get for under $1000. Here are my top 11 in no particular order…

Seiko 5 Sports Field Sports Style SRPH29

The 5 Sports Field watch by Seiko is rugged, affordable and straightforward. Most Seiko watches offer these qualities, but those models within the brand’s 5 Sports watch collection recall design features from classics of the past.

You can expect all the bang-for-buck attributes that you normally would from any Seiko watch, but this time in a compact 39mm diameter for smaller wristed males, complete with the archetypal field watch aesthetic.

This SRPH29 reference features a khaki green dial, an inner 12-hour track, and luminous-coated double-digit minutes around the outer scale. I particularly like the subtle shots of orange at the cardinal points around the minute track, and at the tip of the central seconds hand.

They marry nicely with the inner lining of one of Seiko’s military-like nylon straps. If you were worried that Seiko was leaving its roots behind by focusing on higher-priced models as of late, then don’t be.

There are still plenty of sub-$500 models like this one that promise surprising value for money, and with the variation you need to kit your watch collection out with different colours, case sizes and strap materials to boot.

Seiko even equips this watch with a see-through caseback so that you get to enjoy the workhorse Calibre 4R36 as it performs.

Marathon General Purpose Mechanical

Field watches have always been associated with compact case proportions, making them appealing for those with less endowed wrists. The Marathon General Purpose Mechanical watch is an excellent example of such, taking up residence on the wrist with a discreet and unimposing 34mm diameter.

Even so, it compromises on nothing in terms of quality and performance. This is a superb choice for a mechanical under the $500 bracket, and a rare find. Its design is purpose-built for any terrain with a spec list that you’d generally associate with a higher-priced bracket.

The key takeaway is that Marathon is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Armed Forces, fortifying its reputation in crafting some exceptionally well-built field watches for everyday use.

This model is crafted from high-impact composite fibreshell and houses a Seiko movement. You can’t go wrong.

BOLDR Venture Blue Moon

Seriously, find me another automatic field watch with a full-lume dial like the BOLDR Venture Blue Moon. You simply won’t. This field watch for under $1000 looks like a standard white dial tool with contrasting black elements that enable you to read the face wherever you are.

But, BOLDR notches up the legibility factor with a dial that fully illuminates in the dark, plus this watch feels light on the wrist thanks to its 38mm titanium case.

Like some Seiko watches, the Venture Blue Moon features a crown positioned at 4 o’clock to avoid snagging on clothes and promises 200-meter water resistance too. Additional features include a set of custom-made black hands that stand out with conviction against the luminous blue dial at night, as well as a Japanese movement, a sapphire lens, and a black polyester strap.

Hamilton Khai Field 38

Of course, Hamilton had to make it onto this list with its Khaki Field watch design – a mechanical field watch for under $1000. It’s a simplified three-hand display with an outer 12-hour dial and inner 24-hour scale that captures the essence of the trench watches of yesteryear and harkens back to the brand’s involvement in crafting and supplying watches to the United States Armed Forces during WWII.

I particularly love the use of beige lume in these designs. The material serves to capture the vintage radium lume that would have been used during the advent of the early field watch during WWI.

Hamilton kits the Khaki Field watch out with the H-50 Calibre, a no-date movement with an extended power reserve of 80 hours. The watch completes its look on a khaki textile strap and an elongated screw-down crown.

Newmark 52 Field

Newmark Watch Company is a British heritage brand that specialises in reimagined classics. The brand’s catalogue comprises vintage-inspired skin divers, distinctive field watches and classic chronographs – the Newmark 52 of which is a field watch.

It boasts a striking ivory dial that brings vintage nuances to the forefront. To look at the watch, the Newmark 52 doesn’t look like much. Yet the simplified dial with subtle splashes of blue from the heated blue hands brings field watch credentials to the forefront.

Both the case and dial of this sub-$1k field watch nod back to the military companions of the 1950s, while inside, a modern quartz movement keeps track of time accurately with every second.

Casio G-Shock

Casio G-Shocks have a strong but lightweight carbon core, making them useful for just about any situation you can think of, whether spending a day at the beach or wading through knee-high mud.

With next-level digital technology, this field watch offers Bluetooth connectivity housed in a lightweight module with solar-powered functionality. Surprisingly, despite its beefy, masculine aesthetics, this G-Shock is relatively slim, measuring a thickness of just 12.9mm.

Perhaps a G-Shock was not what you had in mind when you first considered a sub-$1000 watch, but when you weigh up its rugged, ultra-resistant, lightweight and legible design, paired with features like a GMT complication and alarm, it’s certainly a watch that extends far beyond the basic field watch functionality.

Unimatic Modello Due U2 Classic – UC2

Unless you’ve been practising self-isolation since lockdown, you’ll have heard of the watch brand Unimatic. In fact, the company was founded in 2015, but the last few years have been the best for Unimatic.

It tends to take a stark, minimalist approach to creating tool watches, and evidence of that can certainly be seen in the design of the Unimatic Modello Due U2 Classic – UC2, which you can buy for well under the $1000 mark.

This is a made-in-Italy field watch, just like all Unimatic watches, and features pale green Super-LumiNova-coated indexes and hands against a rich black dial for complete contrast. 

This 38mm model features a beefy, easy-grip screw-down crown to help the case uphold its impressive 300M water resistance, while on the back of the case is an engraving of the ‘Rosa dei Venti’ logo that conceals the Seiko NH35A automatic movement, complete with a 41-hour power reserve.

Expedition Field Post Solar 36mm Recycled Fabric Strap Watch

You can’t beat the Timex Expedition Field Post Solar watch. It’s a win-win scenario, whatever way you look at it. It’s cheap, it ticks all the aesthetic boxes of a field watch, it’s powered by a solar quartz movement, measures a true-to-era size, and comes in this slick black-coated stainless steel case. \

To make the decision easier, this eco-friendly watch even comes on a recycled fabric strap in a dark sand colour, which sets off the beige faux-vintage lume on the hands and triangular hour pointers. For its price point, this has to be my favourite field watch on this list.

It has the 24-hour inner scale, 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown and caseback. Plus, Timex’s track record in creating quality timepieces for very reasonable prices is second to none.

If you want the reassurance of a solid name, combined with a design that manifests all the quintessential features of a field watch, the Expedition Field Post Solar is a no-brainer.

Studio Underdog 02 Series Steffany Blue

Pink Lemonade and Steffany Blue. They sound like bizarre dial colours for a field watch, but field watches they certainly are.

These colours just work. The blue-green shade of the pastel dial in the Steffany Blue iteration is going to garner some attention, not just for its colour but for the pure fact that the 02 Series watch is such a playful twist on the classic field watch, yet it totally looks like a field watch.

If you’re undecided at this point, take a break and come back to this watch. I guarantee you’ll fall in love with it. It’s a spin on the Tiffany dial, surely? And Studio Underdog has daringly brought it to the field watch. This brand knows what it’s doing.

Let’s not forget it was elected by the British Ministry of Defence to make an accurate and reliable watch for the armed forces during WWII.

The 02 Series Steffany Blue is a sandwich dial with a base layer coated with custom-made Super-LumiNova, with a 1mm sapphire disc mounted to its surface. Interestingly, the hour markers, minute track, and brand name are all printed onto the surface of the sapphire disc.

When the two dials are affixed to one another, they create the impression of a much thicker, chunkier dial that can entrance with its sense of depth. These printed details appear to float atop the dial in the daylight, casting shadows onto the lower base.

Hands down, this is the most intriguing field watch of the lot. You get a tried and tested Sellita movement with this watch and a smooth black band made by The Strap Tailor.

Vaer A5 Field Watch

https://www.vaerwatches.com/products/a12-dirty-dozen-swiss-automatic-40mm

Inspired by the iconic Dirty Dozen watches of yesteryear, the Vaer A5 Field watch measures a sweet spot size of 40mm, making it a great choice for males with average-sized wrists.

As a respectful homage to the Swiss-made Dirty Dozen design, the microbrand equips the A5 Field Watch with Swiss-made components, accurately capturing the historically relevant design.

A threaded screw-down design ensures the case stays watertight and airtight, and as part of the brand’s “ocean to office” motto, two interchangeable straps are provided. These comprise a water-ready strap and a Horween leather strap option.

The cathedral hands on this dial give the Vaer A5 watch a Hamilton-type look, with the small seconds sub-dial serving a very practical purpose, donating more space to the two main timekeeping hands and achieving a simplified, minimalist display.

Dryden Heartlander Automatic 38mm

The Dryden Heartlander has a president bracelet. Enough said. This field watch demonstrates thoughtful attention, since the bracelet also features quick-release spring bars and a nice taper, allowing the watch to fit snug on the wrist. It has a somewhat refreshing versatility to its design.

Take, for example, the range of dials you can get in this series. From the “Traditional Field” watch style as seen here, to the “Classic Sport” style with the 3-6-9 markers, there is consistent attention to detail across all the models.

The Heartlander is powered by a Miyota movement, balancing performance with style perfectly. The addition of the President bracelet here spoils us. It’s a beautiful touch. The options are endless when it comes to experimenting with this watch.

You can even switch out the bracelet for a sportier NATO if you want to achieve a somewhat more military-esque look. Lastly, the injection of soft gold gilt hues is a delightful addition to this Heartlander watch.

They open up more options for coloured canvas strap configurations and ramp up the detailing across the black display. Dryden also equips the watch with an arrow-shaped hour hand, a sapphire crystal glass front, and 100M water resistance.

Conclusion

The thing that makes a field watch a field watch is its simplicity. Strip a watch back to basics, and you have a legible, easily readable dial, a no-nonsense case, and the ability to pair that watch with pretty much everything in your wardrobe.

Some brands specialising in the field watch have military roots like Longines, Hamilton, Omega, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. You’ll recognise some of the names in that list from the beloved Dirty Dozen watches, from which many modern-day field watches take inspiration.

But you seldom find field watches made by those brands for under $1k unless you shop on the pre-owned market. The good news is that many other brands produce affordable field watches today, whether they be microbrands or names synonymous with accessibility, like Timex.

And while the archetypal field watch is a black dial with white Arabic numerals and highly visible hands, housed in a compact sub-40mm case, there is no one definitive rule.

Today, field watches come in all sizes and dial colours, many of which buck the trend with unconventional case materials and straps. Hopefully, these options have given you some food for thought while planning your next purchase.

The term “dress watch” sounds very simple and self-explanatory, and because of this, it’s very rarely elaborated upon. Watch wearers, whether new to the game or experienced, are expected to know what one is and how to pick a good one without any real guidance.

Dress watch offerings across the watch market are vast, and there are no official standards to differentiate a decent one from a bad one. And there are so many opinions and schools of thought surrounding the topic of dress watches, too. It’s an absolute minefield.

Some believe a dress watch should be pure and simple, and that no formal outfit is complete without one. Others believe you shouldn’t wear one at all, since checking the time when attending a special occasion is considered rude and distasteful.

But in my opinion, watch-wearing traditions have evolved so much over the decades that in this day and age, anyone can and should be able to wear whatever makes them happy.

Of course, the Cartiers and the Pataks of the world are considered the cream of the crop when it comes to quality dress watches, but what of those in the low-to-mid-tier section? What about the dress watches priced under $1000?

While this guide will list some dress watches that you’ll have no doubt heard of, I’ll also be shining the spotlight on some lesser-known brands. The truth is, there are some micro brands out there producing dress watches and bringing stuff to the table that even hard hitters would struggle to compete with, so they deserve a mention on this list, too.

Of course, automatic watches within this price bracket give you more bang for your buck, but quartz-powered dress watches are also worth some consideration, so I’ve included both! 

So, without further ado, let’s get stuck into this list of top 10 dress watches under $1000. 

Tissot Visodate

You only need to take a quick glance at the Tissot Visodate to realise that its design takes directional cues from a 1950s classic.

It has the curved dial and the domed sapphire glass that give a subtle vintage vibe, providing a scratch-resistant and anti-glare canopy over the dial, including its Day-Date complication at 3 o’clock.

And without being ostentatious, it exudes a distinct retro flavour that you can pretty much pair with any jeans and shirt combo. The Tissot Visodate is no longer available to purchase from the brand’s official website, but many Tissot stockists still have these models available to order.

Stowa Partitio Classic Black

If you quite like the look of Nomos watches but find them a little pricey, Stowa has a great alternative, named the Antea. Still, it’s slightly over budget, with a price tag of around $1,100, so, for something a little more affordable, take a look at this alternative dress watch from Stowa.

It’s called the Partitio, and comes in this “Classic Black” iteration, with legible Arabic numeral hour markers in a subtle cream colour, giving it a slightly vintage edge. The hands, too, have been treated with the same Super-LumiNova material, nodding to 1930s watch styles with their syringe profile.

For under $1000, this Stowa watch comes fitted with an automatic movement made in Switzerland. It also measures a nice and compact 37mm diameter, making it an ideal option for those wanting to avoid large-sized dress watches this summer. 

Cincinnati Guild Mechanical

I’ve touched on Cincinnati Watch Company before. And if you haven’t yet heard of this brand, go check it out, because it’s an American brand making really nice watches for an affordable price.

What’s more, it’s not even trying to be anything other than itself. Its designs take inspiration from the golden era of mechanical watchmaking within this mid-western town in Southwest Ohio – an area that had a powerful voice in the industry during the 20th century.

After all, the town was once home to Gruen watch company, where Cincinnati Watch Company now resides.

The Guild Mechanical is an unusual-looking watch that will undoubtedly appeal to you if you have an eye for unorthodox designs. The 38mm steel watch features an inner white dial and a black hour ring, framed by a discreet minute track.

But here’s where the design gets even more interesting, because for under $1k, you’re not just getting any Swiss movement, you’re getting a Sellita Elabore movement that has been hand-assembled in-house at Cincinnati Watch Company. It’s a pretty interesting concept to add to any collection, especially one lacking a quirky dress watch. 

Baltic MR01

Baltic is an influential micro brand based in Paris. When I mentioned earlier that some micro brands are producing affordable dress watches with techniques and design elements that many larger brands wouldn’t even attempt, the MR01 by Baltic is what I’m talking about.

Firstly, the fact that this watch has been integrated with a micro rotor movement is pretty exceptional. It’s incredibly rare to see a watch with a micro rotor movement at this price point. It also has a nice compact case size that fits the current demand for smaller-sized watches.

As a vintage throwback to yesteryear watches, Baltic equips the MR01 (MR standing for micro rotor) with an acrylic glass. It’s not quite the same as having a sapphire glass front, but perhaps this is the only real compromise you make with this watch.

You could also argue that the beautifully textured dial is probably the most unusual in this entire dress watch guide.

The hour track, represented by silver-coloured Arabic numerals and the feuille-shaped hands, combines with a smooth off-centre small seconds sub-dial, creating something pretty phenomenal, especially when you admire it up close and under the light.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB41

This is a no-brainer. Regardless of whether you’re a fan of the rugged dive tool, or you’re a sucker for the classic sports watch, everyone needs a dress watch like the Seiko Cocktail Time in their collection. There are plenty of designs to pick from in this collection, too.

Take, for example, the 77, the 43, and the SRPBs. They’re all top choices. Most of the designs within the collection are the 40mm models, though you can get a more manageable 38mm option should you have slender wrists that could do without the extra steel.

Their timeless dials work on a variety of wrists, while the case itself comprises the brand’s Hardlex Crystal, with case depths spanning just short of 12mm and a 50-meter water resistance that will serve you well should you get caught in the odd rainstorm.

The Seiko Pressge Cocktail Time SRPB41 is a fine example. Its deep blue dial, adorned in a shimmering pressed pattern, sits under a boxed crystal, with tapering hands driven by an in-house automatic movement capable of providing a 41-hour power reserve.

Seiko completes this classic-looking dress watch with a 5-link stainless steel bracelet that will easily elevate any casual wardrobe. Aesthetics aside, I love the concept behind this range.

Seiko launched the Cocktail Time series in 2010, taking inspiration from the work of mixologist Hisashi Kishi. Seiko’s use of colourful dials and in-house mechanical expertise makes the Cocktail Time one of the best value prospects in the realm of affordable dress watches today.

Tissot Le Locle

 Le Locle is Tissot’s home, and although the Seamaster and PRX models are probably the most talked about and popular of Tissot models, when it comes to dress watches, this collection, named after Tissot’s home city, is about as classic as they come.

The range offers some really neat designs, and despite their innate simplicity, added details like the patterned Guilloche centre and smooth outer hour ring create the look of a sector dial.

Also blazoned into the dial at 6 o’clock is the Powermatic 80 lettering, which relates to the power reserve of the Powermatic 80 movement sitting inside these steel cases.

Dress watches are the simplest-looking timepieces, but if you wanted something with an added layer of finesse and depth, you could consider the Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart model. It features a cut-out section of the movement on the dial side, granting a unique glimpse into the engine as it performs.

This 40mm model features a Le Locle-adorned see-through caseback, exposing the movement further. The good news is that you can easily transform this dress watch’s look.

Swap the traditional brown-coloured leather strap with a different band using Tissot’s innovative interchangeable quick-release bracelet design, and enjoy smooth strap changes while you’re on the fly.

Junghans Max Bill Quarz

Sadly, you can’t get the Junghans Max Bill watch with an automatic movement for under $1k anymore, but the quartz version doesn’t exactly disappoint either. Its language of design is one that never seems to have any borders.

People, whether collectors or not, can appreciate its universal style. If you like the signature style of Junghans’ Bauhaus watches, you’ll love the quartz Max Bill. The dials adhere to minimalist design principles and play into the concept of 1930s-era watches.

Even after so many decades, Bauhaus-inspired watches still carry an enduring appeal. The typeface and Junghans’ use of space is nothing short of beautiful. As a lover of German watch design, this is what I’d personally be spending my money on if I were looking at dress watches within this price category.

This 38mm model relays the time functionally and practically with Arabic numeral hour markers and straight central hands, surrounded by a bezel-less case made from steel. Yes, this watch is powered by quartz, but looking at its dial, you’d never guess it was.

Orient Bambino 38mm Small Seconds

When the Orient Bambino came out with a small-second complication and 38mm size, it got heads turning. It took the classic Bambino three-hander and equipped it with the small seconds function at 6 o’clock, and it’s beautiful.

It has a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm, making it a perfectly compact design for smaller wrists that won’t overhang or impose too much presence when paired with business attire or a suit.

This is just one of the dress watch options you can choose from within the Bambino family, which comes in different dial options, including a black iteration with a white small seconds dial, a white option with gold elements, and an ivory display for a more vintage edge.

Being a sub-40mm model, the Bambino Small Seconds wears so much better as a dress watch, and the dial opening definitely balances the proportions out on the wrist.

Mido Multifort Patrimony

Mido has been around since 1919 and is associated with its automotive-inspired creations and, of course, the Multifort collection. While the Multifort is the brand’s sporty watch collection, some of the designs do sit on the edge of the dress watch genre.

In particular, we have designs like the Multifort Patrimony, which exudes a sensible, casual persona and a beautiful gradient dial, as seen in this striking deep blue variant, complete with a set of syringe hands. Personally, I find the timepieces from this collection more attractive than the Ocean Star.

They have a dial edge and a bezel thinness similar to a MeisterSinger (yes – looping back around to my love of German watches again!). Moreover, I picked out this design since,  as a dress watch under $1000, it certainly looks like it costs a lot more.

The attention to detail in the slimly carved Arabic numerals and the darkening edge around the blue dial make for a particularly intriguing design. The polished steel crown is engraved with the famous Mido name, while the light brown-toned strap is super classic and full of charm.

The sector dial enables the hour markers and the minutes to stand out with prominence in their own sections, and the contours of the polished lugs help to suck the dimensions of the 40mm case in, making it feel more compact overall.

The high-quality movement is also worth mentioning. With a power reserve of 80 hours (the Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 movement), the Multifort Patrimony will keep an accurate time for several days if you want to alternate it with another watch. Plus, it features a Nivahron balance spring to regulate and control the oscillations of the balance wheel. 

The Hamilton Classic Intra-Matric Auto

Now, the Intra-Matric Champagne watch from Hamilton has been discontinued, but you can still pick it up from various Hamilton stockists from new, and for under a rack. Pre-owned, you will find it even cheaper.

This is another example of a dress watch with a thin bezel. This design element opens up a vast champagne dial, allowing the slim hour and minute hands and slim stick indexes to display the time in a simplified and pared-back format.

Without a doubt, the champagne dial is the star of the show, marrying perfectly with Hamilton’s choice of a dark brown calf leather strap, complete with a traditional steel pin buckle.

The watch has undeniable vintage flair, yet because of its relaxed and simplified dial layout, it will also work well with a contemporary suit. Hamilton experts give this watch a sapphire crystal glass front and 50 meters of water resistance. 

Wrapping Up

Whether it’s a reputable name like Tissot or Hamilton that you seek in a dress watch manufacturer, with a bit of history behind its design, or a kookie micro-brand with a bit of quirkiness, you can certainly pick up a beautiful dress watch for under $1000.

The models in this guide range from simple, minimalist three-handers to models combined with a complication or two. To anyone looking for their first dress watch, I always recommend they try on as many different sizes, case materials and designs as possible to get a feel for what looks and feels natural.

Above all, keep it classy and straightforward, and you can’t go wrong with any of these affordable dress watches.