Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Anthracite
Moritz Grossmann presents the PERPETUAL CALENDAR
The Glashütte manufactory celebrates its 17th anniversary with a grand complication
For Moritz Grossmann, the goal behind this new PERPETUAL CALENDAR was to create a timepiece that outlasts the changing eras and preserves its being in perpetuity. Its mechanism keeps the date display correct permanently, even when the months differ in length or the year is a leap year. This complication is considered one of the greatest challenges in watchmaking and combines precise technology with master craftsmanship.
For the 17th anniversary of its rebirth, the Glashütte-based manufactory is unveiling an impressive, newly engineered design. Ever since Christine Hutter brought new life to the tradition-filled Moritz Grossmann name in 2008, the brand has stood for a combination of classic mechanisms, contemporary style and utmost craftsmanship.
When it comes to the legacy of the man who gave the manufactory its name, Christine Hutter says, ‘When I stumbled across Moritz Grossmann, I quickly realised just how significant this special watchmaker from the 19th century was. His story, his personality and work fascinated me right from the start. We have adopted Grossmann’s standard of simple but perfect mechanics in our watches and expanded it to include modern design approaches and technical innovations.’
Special features
Balance staff with integrated safety roller, location of the impulse pin in the balance (Glashütte style); index adjuster with fine screw; 2/3 plate inspired by historical M. Grossmann pocket watches; frame parts in untreated German silver; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; stop-second function at safety roller for pulling the crown; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; gear wheel stopwork with two-teeth backlash
The perpetual calendar indicators
Traditionally, a perpetual calendar combines a variety of information on a single dial. Arranging this information in an appealing way is a challenge of its own. The Moritz Grossmann PERPETUAL CALENDAR offers a symmetrical and clear dial where all the indicators come together to form a single, harmonious picture.
Both the watch’s appearance and its legibility benefit from the way the date is presented on a ring running around the dial, with a full date scale from 1 to 31 printed on it. To distinguish the date display from the hour and minute hands and keep the face tidy and clear, there is a cup-shaped indicator on the outside that marks the current date by framing it. Another ring further in on the dial has a fine radiant cut to it that bolsters the elegant appearance.
The month and day of the week are displayed on two subsidiary dials left and right of centre, at 3 and 9 o’clock. They are decorated using a refined Azurage technique, just as the small seconds are. This technique involves a circular pattern of ultra-thin grooves which catch the light in an intriguing and appealing way. Each Grossmann Uhren GmbH November 2025 2/11 of these subsidiary dials has a small window at its centre. One of them serves as a leap year indicator, as the hallmark of a perpetual calendar is its knowledge of leap years and indication of the 29th of February every four years. The second small window is a day–night display which makes it easier to link the time with the date when setting the watch.
The 12 o’clock position features a poetic moon phase display where a gleaming mother-of-pearl moon tracks across a dark night’s sky with small, sparkling stars. The soft glow of the moon is set against a goldstone background which is illuminated by small copper crystals. Together, it is all reminiscent of a starry night’s sky.
Convenient operation
Correctors are located on the sides of the case for all the displays on the PERPETUAL CALENDAR. Using them, the date, day of the week, month and moon phase can quickly be set and coordinated. The correctors are recessed subtly into the case and are operated with a special tool that comes with the watch. The timepiece offers a further special feature in the form of a sum corrector. If the watch goes a few days without being wound, this pusher is all the wearer needs to revise the date since the day-of-week, month and moon phase indicators will all follow automatically.
Calibre 101.13 – a newly engineered design
The PERPETUAL CALENDAR sets new standards with the newly engineered 101.13 hand-wound calibre. This calibre is purely a plate movement based on a modified 100.1 movement with a module set on top for the perpetual calendar. Overall, it is an exceedingly complex piece of design that integrates numerous components. The module for the perpetual calendar alone consists of 211 individual parts, and they are complemented by the 190 components in the base movement.
Innovative mechanism with a fine finish
Many of the movement’s details are brand new, including a simpler, optimised stopwork, an integrated manual winder and an escape wheel bearing integrated into the barrel bridge.
Apart from the sophisticated architecture, just the sheer aesthetics of the calibre alone are another key feature. This is because Moritz Grossmann decorates and finishes its movements in accordance with all the rules of traditional haute horlogerie.
A premiere with three variants
The Moritz Grossmann PERPETUAL CALENDAR is making its debut in three variants. Two models sport a rose gold case with slim, lance-shaped hands made of rose gold. The cup-shaped date indicator and hour appliqués are colour-coordinated to perfection. One of the models features a gleaming silver argenté dial whilst the other has a vibrant anthracite dial.
The third PERPETUAL CALENDAR variant is presented in a platinum case with a dial combining argenté and anthracite colours. The hour appliqués also have a silver colour, and the slender hands are made of blue tempered steel to ensure they are easy to read against the light background.
All three watches are worn on a dark brown alligator leather strap with a prong buckle.
