Breguet Type XX - XXI - XXII
The most interesting collection from Breguet is the Type XX, a line starts in the 1950s as a French military watch for aviators. A collection for many vintage wristwatch enthusiasts. Breguet Type XX is still one of the most popular collections in the company and its sports line along with the nautical influenced Breguet Marine. Now we have a unique Breguet Type XX produced. This watch was a buzz since the first announcements of the Only Watch lots in the summer were made. And rightly so, it's awesome. But there's more to it than just that. The look at the watch is classified as the military Breguet type XX, not the civilian Breguet type XX, a differentiation that makes a significant difference between the watches that the French army provides to the commercial pieces for sale to the public. Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer of the Breguet Type XX - XXI - XXII collection. You can find Breguet Type XX - XXI - XXII watches for sale here
More on Breguet Type XX - XXI - XXII
Breguet Type XX, Type XXI, and Type XXII Watch Collection Review
Breguet Type XX
The Breguet Type XX was launched in 1995, just before Breguet was purchased by the Swatch Group. It's a Type20-inspired re-edition, but not a watch that meets the Breguet Type 20 specifications. Although it has retained many of its classic characteristics and development standards, it is a more streamlined and elegant watch that boldly bears the Breguet emblem.
The Breguet Type XX is a true pilot chronograph with a black dial and contrasting white numerals. It also maintained the flyback complex chronograph feature, which every pilot understands it is very helpful when it is time to calculate. The very good idea was also for Breguet to maintain a small case diameter at 39 mm. The Breguet Type XX also incorporates several of the codes of new Breguet that provide a more fitted model with the majority of its features. The Breguet Type XX is a luxurious watch in a cockpit and at a business conference.
Type XX is fitted with a flyback chronograph, as with the old BreguetType 20. A flyback can be reset at zero by pressing a single pusher (that is, starting a new timing session). The process of a traditional chronograph is a three-stage operation, with the following: you must first interrupt the chronographer by pressing the pusher at 2, reset the chrono hand back to 0 before you are able to reset the chronograph. With the Flyback feature, you only need to press the pusher at 4 once to do this. It is particularly helpful for several distances or cycles that need to be timed in a row. The Breguet Type XX also incorporates a typically Type 20-inspired pilot watch dial. This is a tri-compax chronograph with an operating second at 9, a counter of 30 minutes at 3 and a counter of 12 hours at 6.
Dial and Hands
You will enjoy when you first look at the Breguet Type XX dial. It has different fonts, has a distinct shape on each hand and each sub-counter has a unique layout. However, you will understand the clarity and legibility if you take the time to look at it seriously. Of course, time reading is very straightforward due to the black color with prominent numbers and white marks The matte finish can also block reflections of light.
On the contrary, what can be viewed as a messy layout is a deliberate and intelligent approach. First the hands: four of them are prominent and luminescent. The most significant indicators are emphasized: hours, minutes, the main second and the counter of 30 minutes. The smaller-second hand and the 12-hour counter hand, which are secondary data, are slimmer and secure from Luminova. The subdials often express the same concept by balancing the other two by 30 minutes. All of this combined offers you a very clear and unconfused signal, even during the night, as the luminous substance is perfectly effective and has both the hands and the indexes added.
Apart from the technical and practical need for legibility, this voluntary disorder creates a unique design that is completely consistent with Breguet Type 20 vintage dials and does not deny some charms.
Case and Strap
Breguet has taken the right decision by retaining its reissue status by keeping the case close to 39 mm, a very fair size, which is too small for some in comparison to modern pilot watches (e.g. the 43 mm IWC pilot watch Chronograph or the 42 mm Speake-Marin Spirit Seafire). The Breguet Type XX, with its 39mm case, is able to hide under your shirt cuffs due to its dome shape sapphire crystal and the rather narrow profile, considering it is a pilot watch.
The layout and details of the case are of great importance in comparison to the Breguet Type 20 vintage. The new XX type comes with an elegant and highly functional case, while old ones used to have a very simple and functional shape. Like the polished finish, the traditional fluted side of Breguet gives an elegant touch.
The two-way bezel has 60 clicks and seems very qualitative . The pushers and crown are not covered and are therefore simple to use, even with the glove once more. This is a minute engraving with a luminous marker at 12 (another change from the old Breguet type 20 engraving with the hours). The case is finally complete, polished and inscribed with the brand name, model name, and reference number. The whole standard of the case is outstanding and the care given to details and proportions contributes to a very attractive overall watch.
This typically comes with a brown alligator strap, but it also looks fantastic on a NATO leather strap or a heavy aviator leather strap. The Breguet Type XX is a very flexible watch that feels comfortable in every circumstance and will compete with the Omega Speedmaster and Rolex GMT Master II.
The Breguet Type XX uses the Caliber 582, which essentially is Lemania 1350 and is complicated by a flyback. The Calibre 1350 is an improvement of Lemania 1340, used in several automated vintage chronographs. It is a new, cam-enabled automatic chronograph motion that ticks at a rate of 28,800vph (4Hz) and it has a power reserve of 48hours.
The Breguet Type XX, especially with a pilot-oriented watch, is one of the best chronographs out there. This is a precise and functional tool with a highly legible feeling that can be used as flying instruments or as a day-to-day business beater. I think it's a great look especially due to its versatility. ⠀
Breguet Type XXI
The Type XXI watch was influenced by the chronograph Type XX designed by Breguet for the French Aéronavale in the 1950s. The new Type XXI was first introduced in 2011 and comes in a Grade 2 titanium case with a rotating black lack bezel sporting numerals in relief.
The Type XXI design was influenced by the second-generation original Type XX designs from 1970 to 1984. The date at 6 o’clock., a 24-hour indicator and a little second-hand feature in the new model functionality. Due to a screw-locked crown, the case, the 42 mm case in diameter is waterproof up to 100 meters.
Its technical aspect is a counter positioned in the center of a chronograph minute, like a counter of seconds. The automatic mechanical caliber also has a flyback-feature which enables the counter to be reset and restarted immediately with one single process.
Breguet Type XXII
Breguet introduced a reinterpretation of Type XXII with a frequency of 10 Hz in 2010, which was above all highly accurate. It is the first series of the mechanical chronograph (spring balance, lever and escape wheel in silicon) with a 10 Hz move, able to determine 20ths of a second was the product of its research of high frequencies aiming at a closer and more stable time-screening.
The black face offers the background on which the other characteristics are chosen in black and red. The strong hands of the white minute and the hour are attractive to the eyes. With a diamond cut off, the additional central hand is shorter. The seconds are shown in the basic subdial of the chronograph at 9 o'clock, which completes a cycle of 30 seconds, measured in 10-second cycles. The time calculated by the chronograph can be read in two other hands; a slender, red one that indicates the second, and a white one with a red tip, which has a diamond cut and marks the minutes.
The sub-dial at 6 o'clock enables a second time zone with date display aperture to be set and indexed. The numerals in Arabic are bright and in the context of the small dial and shorthands, they appear broader. The main hands are of the same shape that is solid white, one diamond-cut. Around 3 o'clock the sub-dial sets over 24 hours for the reference time. Again, the hand is strong, white, but curved.
In face marks, the red and white theme persists. The numbers in Arabic are white, red, which has a nearly 3D effect. Minutes appear as dashes, then red and white, in juxtaposition, with upright white stakes, wider when five intervals are marked. The finer seconds are also red and white in the outer flange. The minutes and seconds of the graduations indicate also if the chronograph counter is in its first or second rotation, 30 seconds; first is the red counter, second is the white counter. The outside rim is marked by minutes 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and the white triangle at 12 0' clock, indicating 0 and 60.
Made in stainless steel the 44 mm case encloses an exceptional chronograph with high-frequency silicone exhaust, together with a flat balance spring. The use of silicon leads to lighter elements and prevents high-frequency lubrication difficulties.
The 10 Hz or 72,000 vph high-frequency flat balance is amazing. The frequencies of most movements are only 2,5 Hz, 3 Hz or 4 Hz (18000 vph, 21600 vph or 28800 vph), respectively. In reality, type XXII is a very unique thing.