Author: Benedetto Youssef

Let’s be honest with ourselves—watch collecting is a niche hobby. In today’s day and age, most people wear smartwatches, and if they happen to have a “nice” watch on, it’s usually something that ticks from a department store. 

Not that I’m hating on quartz watches or fashion brand watches. I’m not. I just have to remind myself, sometimes, that perspective is important in trying to engage an audience with important information.

If you surveyed a room of one hundred “watch civilians,” I’d guess the following: at least 95 out of 100 could easily recognize a Rolex; at least 50 had owned a watch at some point in their lives—including cheap cereal box watches from the nineties; about 15 would consider acquiring an expensive watch as a milestone purchase one day, with virtually all of them ultimately settling on a Rolex.

Such is the iconic status of Rolex. It is truly one of the most recognizable brands today, regardless of the industry. And so, being a “watch guy,” I am often asked the inevitable: “What entry-level Rolex should I purchase?” 

The question carries weight—because with Rolex, it’s never just about telling time but rather about finding the perfect timepiece for your needs. Heavy is the crown and heavier still is the choice…

The Rolex Explorer Collection

The Explorer is my favorite Rolex—period. I love the mountains and the outdoors, and something about a robust three-hander without complications just gets me going.

The Rolex Explorer’s claim to fame came in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore Rolex Explorers during their historic ascent of Everest. 

This iconic moment cemented the watch’s reputation as a reliable companion for those who push the boundaries of exploration. With its straightforward design and dependable build, the Explorer continues to honor that legacy, offering a blend of ruggedness and elegance that appeals to those who appreciate both adventure and heritage. 

Today, the standard Explorer is available in 36mm and 40mm, fitting the vast majority of wrists out there, both male and female. The 36mm can be had for $7,350, and the 40mm retails for $7,800. If you are interested in adding a bit of “pizzazz” to your wrist, then you should opt for the two-tone explorer, available in 36mm and retailing for $12,700.

Of course, if we are discussing the Explorer collection, we have to mention the iconic Explorer II. First released in 1971 with the reference 1655, it wasn’t until the reference 16550, introduced in 1985, that the Explorer II gained a true GMT function, allowing the wearer to independently set the 24-hour hand to track a second timezone. 

Since then, all subsequent Explorer II models have retained the GMT functionality, making them more versatile for travelers. Available solely in a 42mm stainless steel case, the current Explorer II can be purchased with either a black or white dial for $9,750.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection

Essentially the “foundation” of Rolex, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is often the first Rolex many people experience, and for good reason.

It’s the perfect blend of luxury and flexibility—a watch that can be easily worn with a pair of jeans or a suit. Its name comes from Rolex’s Oyster case, introduced in 1926 as the world’s first truly waterproof wristwatch. 

Subsequently, in 1931, Rolex added its Perpetual self-winding movement—hence the name “Oyster Perpetual.” So, while the Oyster Perpetual wasn’t Rolex’s first watch, it was the watch that truly laid the groundwork for the brand. 

Most Rolex watches today are technically Oyster Perpetuals in the sense that they have an Oyster case and a Perpetual movement. But the simple Oyster Perpetual model remains the purest version of Rolex’s legacy.

The Oyster Perpetual comes in a variety of stylish colors, with green being one of my favorites! The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is offered in 41mm and 36mm variations for men, with smaller 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm options also available.

This watch is crafted with a stainless steel case and a COSC-certified automatic movement, making it both robust and precise. 

Don’t be tricked by the nomenclature: The Oyster Perpetual is very capable; with 100m of water resistance and Rolex’s legendary build quality, it can be a “Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything” (GADA) watch. 

With a starting price of around $5,650 for the 28mm version and reaching up to $6,500 for the 41mm, the Oyster Perpetual is a great value proposition, especially when considering that these watches really don’t lose their value.

Rolex Explorer vs Oyster Perpetual – How to Choose

Ultimately, you can’t go wrong with the Explorer or the Oyster Perpetual, regardless of size, model, or case materials. Modern Rolex watches are built to extraordinary standards—they truly stand the test of time and can be passed down from generation to generation. 

Don’t believe me? Take a look at the price of vintage Explorers and Oyster Perpetuals. They are highly sought after and usually priced above the MSRP of when they were first sold.

So here are some questions you need to ask yourself. Do you travel a lot? If so, does a GMT make sense to you? Do you like larger, more robust watches with rotating bezels? Then maybe you should take a look at the Explorer II, which is extremely sought after, especially for business executives on the go.

Are you an outdoorsy person who needs a rugged yet elegant watch? Do you want more options in terms of sizing while still maintaining a utilitarian style? You should take a look at the Explorer. 

My preference is for 36mm, but I have 6.5-inch wrists, which is on the lower end of the average for men. Consider that “smaller” watches are currently in, and historically, a smaller watch will remain sought after, even during “larger” watch wearing trends. And if you want something bigger, the 40mm is available.

Do you like to express your style with color and flair? Or, perhaps, you desire a watch that flies under the radar while maintaining the quality and heritage of Rolex?

You should definitely opt for the Oyster Perpetual, available in a multitude of colors, with the “Celebration” dial being the loudest, and a traditional champagne or black dial is classic, understated, and versatile.

Conclusion

Ultimately, the best thing about watches and fashion is that there is great fluidity to them. It comes down to the three p’s: preference, purpose, and personality. It comes down to you.

The Explorer and the Oyster Perpetual are two sides of the same coin—both unmistakably Rolex, yet designed for different kinds of watch lovers. If you’re drawn to the idea of a watch with a sense of adventure, a tool built for the outdoors, something rugged yet refined, the Explorer is a perfect fit. 

It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t just sit on your wrist—it becomes part of your story. Whether you’re hiking, traveling, or just appreciating the craftsmanship of a well-built timepiece, the Explorer never feels out of place.

But maybe you want something simpler, something that flies under the radar while still carrying all the prestige of the crown.

The Oyster Perpetual is pure Rolex—no frills, no complications, just a timeless design that works with anything. It’s an everyday watch in the best way possible, and with its range of colors and sizes, it lets you express a bit more personality.

At the end of the day, there’s no wrong choice—just the right watch for you.

Ahh—yes, Rolex. One of the most storied brands in the world, recognizable even to people who have never put a wristwatch on, nevermind a luxury timepiece. Rolex is arguably the most celebrated watch brand in the world, with its green backdrop, iconic crown, and gold embossed lettering. 

And, admittedly, no Rolex is as famed as the Submariner, worn by Sean Connery during his Bond tenure. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides.

And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake. 

And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolex Submariners than I’d care to admit. 

But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus. 

So, before you take the plunge on a Rolex Submariner, let’s make sure you’re not treading in counterfeit waters.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex Submariner

Watch Price

Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which can be challenging even on a good day? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP—period. 

So, if someone is offering you a Submariner for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?

Watch Weight 

A reliable way to spot a fake Submariner is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits.

This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, with the Submariner offered in 904L stainless steel, 18k white and yellow gold, or two yellow Rolesor (two-tone Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold). 

Older Rolex Submariners might feature 316L stainless steel before Rolex transitioned to 904L in the late 1980s, as well as 14k gold for certain U.S. market models before the brand standardized 18k gold. 

On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing.

Movement 

One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex Submariner is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake. 

New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day.

If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine. 

However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. In the case of a “super clone,” an AD can help you with the verification process.

Caseback 

Rolex Submariner casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of a polished outer circle with a brushed center; the caseback is devoid of engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Genuine Rolex watches have serial and model numbers engraved on the case between the lugs, not the caseback. 

If you find such markings on the back of the case, it’s a red flag. A real Rolex caseback is made of high-quality stainless steel with a very precise, smooth finish. Fake casebacks might feel or look a bit off in terms of construction quality or the material used.

Cyclops 

The Submariner reference 126610LN comes with a date and cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal.

The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant. 

Many fake Rolex Submariners have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner.

When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all, really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.

Crown Markings 

Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns, and the design and execution of them. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward. 

A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jeweler’s loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown. 

Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with the case material. Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner.

Serial Numbers 

Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. On pre-2007 Submariners, the serial number is typically found between the lugs at the 12 o’clock position instead, which is an important distinction for vintage Submariners.  

The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving! 

Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches. 

Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.

Dial Details 

Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing.

Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye. 

And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!

Hands 

The Rolex Submariner features Mercedes hands, which is one of the defining design elements of the watch.

The term “Mercedes hands” refers to the distinctive shape of the hour hand, which has a characteristic pointed triangle at the end, resembling the Mercedes-Benz logo. When checking the authenticity of a Submariner, the hands can reveal a lot. 

First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious. 

Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off. 

The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel (depending on the model). If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.

If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake.

I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch.

Crystal Etching

Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal of a modern Submariner. 

This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately.

If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake.  One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface. 

This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such, even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.

Water Resistance

Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory. 

While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.

Bezel (both inner and outer)

The bezel on a Rolex Submariner, both inner and outer, is a great indicator of authenticity. The outer bezel, on modern models is made of ceramic and boasts perfectly sharp, crisp markings that won’t fade or scratch easily. 

On older models, you’ll find an aluminum bezel, which may show some wear or fading over time—something to keep in mind when buying vintage. The inner bezel, or rehaut, is where Rolex places its signature engraving, always sharp and precise. 

Counterfeiters often fail to replicate this detail, either with poorly executed markings or a lack of distinctive engraving entirely. The bezel’s rotation should feel smooth and effortless, with no play or resistance, a feature that’s difficult to fake.

Are Fake Rolex Submariner Watches Worth It? 

No!

I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit Submariner. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success, and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so. 

There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake. 

With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex, but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market. 

Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex Submariner 

Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex Submariner—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Submariner, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex. 

This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock draw, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex. 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!

Conclusion 

If you want to own a Rolex Submariner, and you took the time to read this article, it’s likely that you are doing your homework and care about owning an authentic piece of Rolex history—so kudos to you! 

Watch collecting is truly a joyful journey, and the research and literature leading up to your purchase is always enjoyable, or at least it is for me! Please don’t hesitate to reach out to our experts here at Exquisite Timepieces, especially if you are on the market for a pre-owned Rolex Submariner. We will always point you in the right direction!