Author: Charlotte H

If you’ve ever strolled past a watch display and found your eyes drawn to the sleek simplicity of a Movado watch, you’re not alone. Movado’s minimalist designs, particularly the iconic Museum Watch, have earned the brand a loyal following and plenty of admirers. But does that admiration translate into value for money? 

And is Movado a must-have addition to your own collection, or is it just a fancy name with a hefty price tag? Ultimately, it’s all going to come down to your own tastes and desires, but let us at least give you all the information you need to make your decision.

Movado Watches in the Past

If you were to head to the Movado website today, you’d be right in thinking this watch company leans more towards fashion-style watches than high-end watchmaking prowess. But the Swiss timepiece manufacturer hasn’t always been the fashion-forward, design-centric brand you see today.

Movado has a rich history that dates back to 1881, when it was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, a region that many of you will probably know is already synonymous with precision watchmaking. The name “Movado” itself means “always in motion” in Esperanto, which reflects the brand’s early commitment to innovation and quality craftsmanship.

Back in the day, Movado was a serious player in the world of horology. Its reputation was built on elegant, innovative designs, and it won numerous awards for this philosophy. 

Notable watches in its archive include the Polyplan, which launched in 1912, a curved watch designed to fit the wrist more comfortably, and its Chronometer watches, which were highly prized for their accuracy.

The real turning point for Movado came in 1947, though, when artist Nathan George Horwitt designed the now-iconic Museum Dial. 

The watch’s stark, minimalist design featured a single dot at 12 o’clock to represent the sun and two hands sweeping around the dial. It was a design so striking it became part of the permanent collection at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, earning it the nickname “Museum Watch.”

But alas, the history of Movado isn’t all sunshine and accolades. Their acquisition of the Museum Dial design has been a source of plenty of controversy. 

While Horwitt initially licensed the design to Movado, there have been disputes over its intellectual property, which has led some watch enthusiasts to question the brand’s integrity. Regardless, Movado has leaned heavily on this design ever since, making it the cornerstone of its identity.

For decades, Movado was seen as a serious, respectable Swiss watchmaker. Collectors still prize vintage Movado pieces for their craftsmanship and unique designs. However, as we’ll see, the brand’s focus shifted dramatically in the late 20th century.

Movado Watches Today

Fast forward to the present, and Movado occupies a very different space in the watch world. While the brand still leans on its Swiss heritage, its watches are now more often associated with fashion than high-end horology. 

In fact, even Movado has positioned its company more as a lifestyle brand, appealing to a fashion-forward audience with its sleek, modern designs. But this does mean prices can feel a little high, especially considering the technology and design prowess involved. 

The Good 

Now, I don’t want you to think this article is focused solely on the negatives of Movado. This Swiss watchmaker still has many admirable qualities that have earned it a dedicated following over the years. 

From their iconic Museum Dial to their commitment to crafting timepieces that seamlessly blend fashion and functionality, Movado continues to hold a respected place in the world of horology.

Everyone has their personal preferences when it comes to watches, and I would never look down on someone for choosing to wear a Movado. After all, a watch is a personal choice that reflects individual taste and style, and Movado offers a unique aesthetic that resonates with many.

For me, the real draw of Movado is the Museum Dial. It remains their most timeless design feature and has inspired countless imitators (so you know it must be admired). 

Its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic make it a perfect accessory for those who value simplicity and sophistication. And, Movado has clearly listened to their customers because they have expanded their Museum offerings to include hundreds of dial, case, and strap configurations. 

Movado’s pricing strategy also still makes it accessible to a wider audience. With many models falling in the $500 to $1,500 range, it’s a more attainable brand than many luxury Swiss watchmakers. And, while purists may scoff, Movado’s quartz movements are reliable and require minimal maintenance, which will always be a plus for casual watch wearers. 

The Not-So-Good 

On the other hand, it’s clear Movado’s reputation as a serious watchmaker has taken a hit. Once celebrated for its innovation and craftsmanship, Movado is now often grouped with fashion brands like Michael Kors and Gucci. 

For serious watch enthusiasts, this association diminishes its credibility. Much of this is down to Movado’s reliance on cheaper technologies like quartz movements and its departure from producing intricate mechanical timepieces. While dependable, quartz movements lack the artistry and complexity that many collectors seek.

Movado’s over-reliance on the Museum Dial design is another sticking point. Yes, it’s iconic, but it’s also ubiquitous. The sheer number of variations on this single concept, with different dial colors, case materials, and strap options, makes it feel overdone. 

It’s as though the brand is treading water creatively, relying on the Museum Dial to carry its identity instead of innovating with new, exciting designs. For a brand with such a storied past, this lack of evolution is disappointing. 

Another criticism lies in the pricing of some Movado models. For instance, the Movado Bold line looks great, but their price tags—often around the $1,000 range—don’t always align with the technology and materials offered. Many competitors in the same price bracket provide better value through superior craftsmanship, mechanical movements, or more innovative features. 

Lastly, Movado’s focus on mass production has diluted its exclusivity. In the past, owning a Movado felt special, almost like a connection to Swiss heritage and artistry. 

Today, the brand’s ubiquity and presence in department stores make it feel more like a commodity than a coveted timepiece. This mass-market approach has made Movado accessible but at the cost of its prestige among horology enthusiasts. 

Popular Movado Models 

Museum Classic 

The Museum Classic is perhaps Movado’s most iconic watch, and for good reason. It closely mimics the original Museum Watch design, featuring the signature minimalist dial with a single dot at 12 o’clock. The simplicity of this watch is both its strength and its weakness. 

On one hand, it’s a timeless representation of modernism. On the other, some critics argue that the design feels overused. While it’s a beautiful piece, Movado’s reluctance to innovate with the Museum Dial has left some fans, myself included, yearning for more creativity. 

Movado Bold 

The Movado Bold series takes a more contemporary approach with bold case stylings, chunky metal bracelets, and dials that play with textures and colors. These watches certainly look the part of a luxury timepiece, but their price tags—often exceeding $1,000—raise questions about value. 

While they feature automatic movements and durable materials, they face stiff competition from brands offering better technology and craftsmanship at a similar or lower price point. For instance, Seiko and Tissot provide comparable or superior options in terms of movement and design for half the cost. 

Movado Face 

The Movado Face is another model inspired by the original Museum Dial, but it takes a more playful and accessible approach. These watches are significantly more affordable, often powered by quartz movements, and feature bold, colorful dials. 

While the designs are fun and vibrant, they still carry a premium price tag that’s hard to reconcile with the technology on offer. Many critics feel that Movado’s reliance on branding over innovation in these models diminishes their appeal.

Should you get a Movado Watch? 

So, is a Movado watch worth your hard-earned money? The answer depends on what you’re looking for. 

Who Should Buy a Movado? 

If you’re someone who values design and aesthetics above all else, Movado has likely already caught your eye. The Museum Dial’s minimalist beauty is hard to beat, and the brand’s other offerings provide plenty of stylish options. 

Movado watches are also ideal for those new to the world of watches. They’re relatively affordable, easy to maintain, and offer a taste of Swiss heritage.

For professionals, Movado watches can also serve as a statement piece. The understated design of a Museum Watch pairs seamlessly with business attire, making it an excellent choice for those who want to exude confidence and style in the workplace without being flashy. It’s a way to make a subtle yet powerful impression. 

Additionally, Movado watches aren’t something you see every day. While brands like Seiko and Longines are celebrated and often spotted on wrists worldwide, Movado’s unique approach to watchmaking sets it apart. Their minimalist aesthetic and uncluttered design offer something distinctive in a sea of more traditional styles. 

For this reason, Movado watches will likely appeal to those who like to stand out from the crowd. They embrace a real stripped-down, artistic approach to watch design, so they’ll be a natural fit for those who appreciate subtlety and want their style to reflect their uniqueness. 

Finally, Movado works for those who are less interested in the mechanics of watchmaking and more focused on aesthetics. I know that not everyone needs a watch with a complex automatic movement or a rich horological history. For many, a beautiful design and a reliable movement are more than enough, and Movado delivers on both fronts. 

Who Should Look Elsewhere? 

In stark contrast, if you’re something of a watch-collecting buff or simply someone who appreciates the artistry behind mechanical movements, you’ll likely find Movado lacking in this area. 

There are plenty of great alternatives in the same price range that offer mechanical movements, greater craftsmanship, and a richer history. Brands like Hamilton, Tissot, or Seiko provide excellent value for money and are more widely respected within the watch community. 

For those willing to stretch their budget, stepping up to brands like Longines or Oris will get you a true luxury timepiece with more robust features and mechanical movements. 

These brands offer watches with a level of craftsmanship and innovation that Movado simply doesn’t compete with within its current form. Additionally, if exclusivity is important to you, Movado’s widespread availability might be a turnoff. Other brands in the same price range can offer a sense of rarity and individuality that Movado lacks. 

Another point to consider is that while Movado’s Museum dial is undeniably iconic, it’s not to everyone’s taste. Its minimalist design is polarizing. Some find it striking and timeless, while others view it as overly simplistic or uninspired. 

Furthermore, despite boasting over 350 models on their website, Movado offers very little in terms of design variety. Most of their watches share the same core aesthetic, with differences largely limited to dial colors, case sizes, and minor material variations. For buyers seeking diverse styles or bolder design choices, Movado’s lineup can feel repetitive and uninspired, making it a less attractive option compared to brands that embrace broader creative expression.

Conclusion 

Movado is a brand that tends to elicit strong opinions, and it’s easy to see why. Once a prominent name in Swiss watchmaking, Movado has evolved into more of a fashion-forward brand, catering to those who prioritize clean, minimalist design and accessibility over traditional horological pedigree. 

For many, the sleek and iconic Museum dial is enough to make a Movado watch an appealing choice. I can understand it; it’s a design that’s hard to mistake for anything else and can make a subtle yet bold style statement.

However, Movado’s shift toward fashion-oriented timepieces does mean it may not appeal to everyone. If you’re someone who values the intricate artistry of mechanical movements, the weight of a storied legacy, or a reputation that resonates deeply within the watch-collecting community, Movado may feel lacking. It’s also fair to say you can find similar or better levels of craftsmanship and design at half of the price if you look hard enough.

Ultimately, whether Movado is worth it comes down to what you value most in a watch. If you’re drawn to their design and the modern, minimalist aesthetic speaks to you, there’s no reason not to enjoy wearing one. 

Watches are personal and should be a reflection of your taste and personality, no one else’s. Whether you choose Movado for its distinct style or opt for another brand that aligns more with traditional watchmaking values, the most important thing is that you wear what you want. Other people’s opinions shouldn’t matter, including mine. 

The Tudor Black Bay 58 has been winning wrists since it dropped back in 2018, and this is not fresh news. On its launch, it was just ever so slightly overshadowed by the Black Bay GMT but after people got the Black Bay 58 on their wrist, it quickly became one of Tudor’s most popular releases. It’s a dive watch that manages to balance compact size, vintage inspirations and modern technology at a price that doesn’t make your wallet want to cry. 

It’s a watch I’ve admired pretty much since its launch in 2018, and truthfully until its release, I barely gave Tudor a second glance since most of their other designs were of a larger size – and so for larger wrist sizes than my own. But the Black Bay 58 changed that and it’s now a mainstay timepiece in my own collection. It’s understated, cool, and just really, really, good-looking. So, after owning the Tudor Black Bay 58 M79030N-0001 for several years now, is it a watch I regret buying, or is it a design that you’ll find regularly strapped to my wrist?

The History of the Tudor Black Bay 

The Tudor Black Bay collection has a well-known history, predominantly because it’s a watch intertwined with Rolex Tudor is the sister company of the Swiss giant after all and one of their first watches was familiarly named the Submariner. The iconic Tudor Submariner Reference 7924, released in 1958, remains the largest inspiration for today’s Tudor Black Bay collection. The 7924 set the stage with its black dial, sturdy steel case, and gold markers, all design elements that are still echoed in today’s Black Bay models. But that’s not to say the Black Bay is a straight-up reissue of the 7924, because it’s not. Instead, it’s more like a tribute that takes inspiration from Tudor’s greatest hits while confidently carving out its own identity. 

For example, the signature “snowflake” hands that define the Black Bay line weren’t part of the original 7924’s design. These were first introduced in 1969 on the Tudor Submariner Reference 7016, adding a unique geometric touch that’s now synonymous with the brand. In that sense, the Black Bay series is an incredible mash-up of Tudor’s most celebrated design moments, blending vintage aesthetics with modern watchmaking innovation. 

Fast forward to 2018, and Tudor shook things up in a big way with the release of the Black Bay 58 at Baselworld. With its more compact 39mm case, it broke away from the “bigger is better” trend that dominated sports watches at the time. Sure, the Black Bay GMT with its flashy red-and-blue Pepsi bezel may have stolen some of the spotlight initially, but the Black Bay 58 didn’t take long to capture the wrists of enthusiasts everywhere. Its perfect proportions, vintage charm, and versatility made it a smash hit, especially as the watch world was knee-deep in a love affair with retro-inspired designs at the time. 

Visually, the Black Bay 58 retains all the hallmarks that make the Black Bay collection so beloved. It’s like a scaled-down version of the original Black Bay (M79230N), maintaining the bold black dial and bezel but with more refined, compact dimensions. 

A Compact Case 

Since the dimensions are arguably the Tudor Black Bay 58 watch’s most notable feature, at least compared to other Black Bay references in the collection, it seems only right we start there. To put it simply, the Black Bay 58 is a masterclass in refined proportions and smart design, packing a punch with its compact 39mm stainless steel case. It’s also just 11.7mm thick so is noticeably slimmer than its predecessor, the 41mm Black Bay, which comes in at a chunkier 15mm. This downsizing makes a world of difference, creating a watch that feels sleek, comfortable, and perfectly suited for everyday wear without losing its sporty dive watch roots. 

One of the standout features of the Black Bay 58 is its thoughtful finishing. The case is primarily brushed for a rugged, utilitarian vibe, with a polished bevel running along the lugs that adds a subtle touch of elegance. Like the early big-crown Submariners, it skips crown guards and protectors and instead opts for a screw-down crown with Tudor’s signature rose logo. This oversized crown isn’t just a nod to Tudor’s heritage but it’s practical too, making time-setting and winding a breeze. 

The Tudor Black Bay 58’s unidirectional rotating bezel is another highlight. Featuring a 60-click mechanism, it provides a tactile, precise feel, with a satisfying lock at the 0/60 position. The black anodized aluminium insert, complete with pink-gilded markings, maintains a vintage aesthetic. It’s functional too, designed to track elapsed dive times, though equally useful for timing everything from coffee brewing to parking meters. The gently knurled bezel edge ensures easy grip without compromising the watch’s sleek silhouette. 

The domed sapphire crystal over the dial also offers modern scratch resistance and nods to the brand’s past, particularly the look of vintage acrylic crystals used during the 1970’s. It’s all the little details like this that enhance the Tudor Black Bay 58’s old-school charm. And since it’s a dive watch after all, the screw in crown and case back provide a 200 metre water resistance so it’s perfectly suitable for snorkelling, skin diving and pool diving. But if you want to go deep sea diving, you’ll want something with a higher water resistant rating than this. 

On the wrist, the Black Bay 58 shines thanks to its compact dimensions. Its lug-to-lug length of 47.75mm and narrower 20mm lug width give it a balanced, wearable profile. It feels substantial yet never overbearing, making it ideal for smaller wrists or anyone who prefers a more understated presence. The bracelet, which tapers from 20mm to 16mm, further contributes to its comfort and vintage-inspired design – but more on that later.

A Retro Dial

Easily the most noticeable feature of any Tudor Black Bay watch is the dial. In the case of the Tudor Black Bay 58 M79030N-0001 it delivers a black and gilt colour scheme which is nothing short of striking. The subtle touches of gold contrast beautifully to the rest of the stainless steel architecture and add a warmth and richness that elevates the 58’s vintage aesthetic. 

The matte black surface of the dial exudes subtle sophistication, with just enough texture to keep it interesting. It has a slightly faded appearance, giving it a lived-in feel without veering into faux-patina territory. Tudor also notes that the dial is domed, though the curvature is so subtle it’s more of a whisper than a shout but is just enough to play with the light and add depth. 

The hour markers follow the classic Submariner-inspired design, with lume-filled applique framed in polished rose gold. The lume itself is an off-white, custard hue that glows brightly in the dark while maintaining that vintage vibe during the day. Around the outer edge, you’ll find a minute track printed in faux-rose gold, subtly tying the whole design together.

At the heart of the dial are Tudor’s iconic snowflake hands, finished in polished rose gold to match the hour markers. These hands are unapologetically bold and instantly recognizable, packed with lume to ensure excellent legibility. While some purists have debated the combination of square-edged snowflake hands with round markers, it’s a design choice that’s become quintessentially Tudor and frankly, it’s a combination I’ve always loved. 

The printed text on the dial is minimal and clean, with the Tudor logo sitting proudly at 12 o’clock and the depth rating and chronometer designation of the in-house movement neatly positioned above 6 o’clock. These details are sharp and unobtrusive, maintaining the Tudor Black Bay 58’s clean and balanced aesthetic. 

One final detail worth mentioning is the synergy between the dial and bezel. The Black Bay 58’s bezel, which as we mentioned features a matching black anodized aluminium insert with rose gold numerals and markings, adds just the right amount of metallic warmth to match the dial, tying everything together succinctly. And of course, there are other dial and bezel colours in the Black Bay collection to choose from that work just as well together including shades of blue, green, burgundy and brown.

An In-House Movement

The movement inside the Tudor Black Bay 58 watch is the Manufacture Calibre MT5402, an in-house mechanical movement that Tudor created specifically for mid-sized cases like this one. At 26mm in diameter and 4.99mm thick, it’s a notable downsizing from the MT5602 found in the Black Bay 41, but with zero compromises in performance. 

It’s a COSC-certified chronometer, meaning it has passed rigorous testing by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (that’s what COSC stands for). To earn this certification, a movement must demonstrate exceptional precision, maintaining an average daily deviation of -4 to +6 seconds. This level of accuracy is a hallmark of premium watchmaking and gives the Black Bay 58 further horological credibility. 

What’s particularly impressive is the movement’s 70-hour power reserve. That’s nearly three full days of uninterrupted ticking, which means you can set it down on Friday, pick it up on Monday, and it’ll still be keeping perfect time. The Calibre MT5402 also features a bidirectional rotor system for smooth, efficient winding and a free-sprung balance with a silicon hairspring for enhanced durability and resistance to magnetism.                                        

Functionally, the MT5402 performs beautifully. During my time with the Black Bay 58, the movement has proven to be extremely accurate and reliable, maintaining time even after sitting unworn for a couple of days. It’s a movement that quietly excels, ticking away at 28,800 beats per hour with 27 jewels.

A Vintage Bracelet 

There are a range of straps available on the Tudor Black Bay 58 including several leather and textile bands. But for me, I’ve always worn mine on the stainless steel bracelet. It’s a strap that feels right for the timepiece’s vintage charm. Like the rest of the design, it clearly draws inspiration from the past opting for a riveted architecture that brings a classic, tool-watch vibe while still offering the comfort and durability you’d expect from a contemporary luxury piece. 

Starting with the basics, the Black Bay 58’s bracelet is 20mm at the lugs, which is ideal for swapping straps if you’re into changing things up. This 20mm lug width is considered a sweet spot in the vintage watch world, giving it a retro look without being too bulky or out of place. The bracelet tapers elegantly down to 16mm at the clasp, which not only enhances its sleek look but also contributes to a more comfortable fit on the wrist. 

The rivet design, introduced to the Black Bay collection in 2016, has become one of the defining features of the line, and it works beautifully on the 58. Each link is rivet-plated on the sides, with the removable links featuring a screw-bar for easier sizing. This design choice is a win-win, as it looks authentic and allows for hassle-free adjustments at home. The rivets themselves lend a vintage tool-watch feel, which fits perfectly with the watch’s overall design philosophy. 

When it comes to wearability, Tudor has nailed the proportions and comfort. The lugs have a slight curve, allowing the case to sit effortlessly on the wrist, no matter which strap you choose. But the bracelet is finished the best, in my opinion. The satin-finished links mirror the case finish, giving it a cohesive, high-quality look. Plus, the fold-over clasp is solid and secure, with a secondary locking mechanism that adds extra peace of mind. Tudor has even incorporated ceramic pins in the clasp’s locking system to slow down wear, ensuring long-term durability.

On-Wrist Experience

Before the Tudor Black Bay 58, no Black Bay really felt right for me. The 41mm predecessor was too large and too thick but the case on this one is perfect for my smaller wrist. If your wrist is between 5.5 to 7 inches, the Black Bay 58 fits like a dream. It’s compact and doesn’t overwhelm the wrist, which is a refreshing change from the larger dive watches on the market. If you have a bigger wrist, though, it might look a bit small and you might prefer the Black Bay 41. But that’s just my opinion and if you’re into that vintage aesthetic, you might enjoy its smaller dimensions.

One of the best parts about the Tudor Black Bay 57 for me is its thinner profile. With a thickness of just 11.9mm, it’s noticeably slimmer than the larger Black Bay (which comes in at 14.6mm). That 18% reduction makes a huge difference in how the watch feels on the wrist, making it more comfortable for all-day wear, while still giving off that cool, vintage vibe. It wears beautifully as a daily watch and is one of those effortless throw-on, throw-off watches you don’t have to think about. It’ll look and act the part no matter the situation.

Price & Availability

The Tudor Black Bay collection has only hosted a handful of limited editions during its release and thankfully, the Black Bay 58 including reference M79030N-0001 is not one of them. It would be weird if it was, since it’s become such a flagship model for the brand. Due to its popularity, I can’t see the Black Bay 58 disappearing any time soon, so you have plenty of time to consider which one you’ll choose for yourself. Just be sure to get yours from an authorised Tudor retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 M79030N-0001 is one of the most affordable designs in the line-up, retailing for $3,450. And even those with differing dial designs, bezel set ups and strap configurations aren’t too far behind with the majority of the collection retailing below $5,000. It’s a watch with a fantastic value proposition, especially when you compare it to so many other popular dive watches on the market.

Conclusion

It’s not every day that a brand takes something great and makes it even better, but that’s exactly what Tudor has done with the Black Bay 58. The original Black Bay line was already a huge hit, a versatile and reliable dive watch that quickly became a favourite among enthusiasts. However, the 58 has taken it a step further by addressing the few critiques of its predecessor, refining the case size, thickness, and proportions, and introducing the smaller in-house movement to fit perfectly into that compact frame.

When I first bought my Tudor Black Bay 58, I wanted something reliable, low-key and easy to wear daily. I can safely say this is a watch that ticks all those boxes: it’s handsome, versatile, durable, and the perfect size for daily wear. Plus, the ability to swap out straps means I can give it a fresh look whenever the mood strikes. For under $5,000, it’s hard to find a watch that offers this much wearability and versatility. It’s a purchase I have never once regretted, and I don’t reckon you will either.

The Longines HydroConquest has been a watch I’ve recommended to newbies to the watch-collecting game for years. It’s a watch I’ve had a lot of hands-on time with, and every single time, I’m impressed with its value proposition. Whether you’re just getting into the hobby or you’re looking for a solid dive watch that won’t break the bank, the HydroConquest delivers.

With its bold, contemporary design and robust water resistance, it checks all the boxes of a serious dive watch while looking equally at home under a cuff or on the beach. Since its debut in 2007, the collection has grown to offer a variety of sizes, colors, and materials, so there’s pretty much something for everyone. 

Sure, the HydroConquest doesn’t have quite the same legacy or collectability as a Rolex or an Omega, but if you’re not caught up in all that—and honestly, not everyone is—it might just be the perfect watch to save you a couple of zeros on the price tag.

So, what exactly does the Longines HydroConquest offer?

A Quick History of the Longines HydroConquest

Longines, one of the oldest names in Swiss watchmaking, has been crafting timepieces since 1832 in Saint-Imier, Switzerland—a village whose name literally means “the long meadows” or “les longines.” 

While the brand had been producing watches for over a century, it wasn’t until 1954 that Longines began giving its collections distinct names, starting with “Conquest.” The original Conquest was groundbreaking, boasting an accurate automatic movement, a water-resistant case, and protection against magnetism and shocks. But despite its utility, it leaned toward the dressy side, with clean lines, a compact 35mm case, and a minimalist dial.

Fast forward to 2007, and Longines introduced the HydroConquest as part of its Sport Collection, marking a bold step for the brand as it entered dive watch territory. Unlike many of its other collections that leaned heavily on heritage-inspired designs, the HydroConquest was a fresh, forward-looking creation. 

While the Longines Legend Diver, for example, is a nostalgic nod to the past, the HydroConquest is a thoroughly modern creation that’s become a cornerstone of the brand’s lineup.

It’s a watch best known for its high-performance specs, like the 300-meter water resistance rating and a unidirectional rotating bezel. These features are tailor-made for divers but will also appeal to anyone seeking a robust, sporty watch. 

Since its debut, the Longines HydroConquest has evolved significantly, introducing new technologies, complications, and materials. For example, in 2018, Longines upped the ante by introducing scratch-resistant ceramic bezels and expanding its palette of dial colors. Today, the collection includes a wide array of options, from different case sizes to vibrant dial and bezel combinations.

A Diver’s Case

The case of the Longines HydroConquest embodies a design language that feels both familiar and uniquely its own. It riffs on iconic elements that seasoned watch enthusiasts will instantly recognize. 

There’s the sporty, robust case shape and the uni-directional bezel with its standard dive watch typeface, but these elements come together in a way that feels distinctly Longines. It’s a perfect blend of heritage inspiration and modern design, resulting in a watch that’s as capable as it is stylish.

The Longines HydroConquest collection offers case sizes ranging from a compact 32mm to a substantial 44mm, catering to a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences. Regardless of the size, the case shares the same defining features: bold, angular lines, strong lugs, and prominent crown protectors flanking the crown at 3 o’clock. 

Even on the petite 32mm model, these features are present, but they’re so well executed that the watch never feels over-the-top or bulky. It’s sporty to its core yet refined enough to wear daily.

The case showcases a mix of brushed and polished finishes, enhancing its sporty-dressy versatility. Despite its rugged appearance and impressive 300-meter water resistance, it’s surprisingly slim. 

Even the largest 44mm model with an automatic movement measures just 11.9mm thick, a remarkable feat for a professional grade dive watch. This slim profile makes it easy to wear under a cuff while still exuding the durability and confidence needed for diving.

The bezel is another highlight, featuring a unidirectional ratcheting mechanism with a 60-minute dive scale. The first 15 minutes are marked in detail, with Arabic numerals at 10-minute intervals for precise tracking. 

Modern HydroConquest models elevate this with ceramic bezel inserts, available in vibrant hues like blue, black, green, and gray. There are also some stunning two-tone models that add a touch of luxury by pairing gold-plated bezels and crowns with the steel cases.

Securing the impressive water resistance is a screw-down crown and a screw-in case back, the latter engraved with the Longines winged logo and “EFC,” which stands for “Établissement Longines Francillon,” a nod to the brand’s historical roots. The case also features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, ensuring durability and excellent readability in all lighting conditions.

A Brilliantly Legible Dial

If there’s one thing in a dive watch that’s paramount, other than the water resistance, it’s the legibility of the dial. Clear timekeeping can be the difference between a successful dive and a critical error, and it’s clear the Longines HydroConquest embraces this fundamental principle and executes it brilliantly. Every element of its dial design is tailored to ensure optimal readability, whether you’re underwater or simply glancing at your wrist on land.

The dial layout is classic and functional. Three applied Arabic numerals are positioned at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, with a date window replacing the numeral at 3 o’clock. These numerals, along with bold rectangular hour markers, are generously coated in glow-in-the-dark Super-LumiNova, ensuring excellent visibility in low-light or murky underwater conditions. 

The handset is equally striking and functional, consisting of a short, faceted hour hand with a luminous diamond tip, a baton-style minute hand, and a lollipop-style sweep seconds hand. This combination enhances legibility and evokes the design language of iconic dive watches that have proven themselves over decades.

Longines offers a variety of dial finishes within the HydroConquest range, catering to diverse tastes. Options include sunray-brushed blue, grey, and black dials, as well as matte-finished green and black dials. 

These variations maintain the same practical layout and hardware, ensuring the signature HydroConquest looks across the collection. The only departure from this formula is found in select 32mm models, which swap the luminous numerals and markers for diamond indices which are set upon a backdrop of iridescent white mother of pearl.

The dial hardware is meticulously crafted to match the case material. On two-tone models with gold-plated accents, for example, the hands and markers are also finished in gold, providing a seamless aesthetic. Completing the design are the Longines logo at 12 o’clock, featuring the iconic winged emblem, and additional text at 6 o’clock denoting the watch’s impressive 300-meter water resistance and the movement inside.

A Swiss-Made Movement 

And, of course, there are a couple of movement options to choose from, too. This will depend on your own passions and needs. If you’re a lover of traditional watchmaking techniques and have a little more budget to spare, then the Longines HydroConquest Automatic is a fantastic choice. Meanwhile, the Longines HydroConquest Quartz makes the diver’s watch more affordable and will only require a single battery change every couple of years. 

The quartz-powered HydroConquest models typically house the Longines L156 or L157 calibers, both of which are based on ETA quartz movements (ETA, like Longines, is part of the Swatch Group). 

These Swiss-made movements are renowned for their precision and reliability. A standout feature of these quartz calibers is the End-of-Life (EOL) indicator, which alerts the wearer when the battery is nearing depletion. This is achieved by the seconds hand beginning to jump in four-second intervals, signaling it’s time for a battery replacement. This practical feature ensures you’ll never be caught off guard with a stopped watch. 

For those who prefer the craftsmanship of a mechanical watch, the Longines HydroConquest’s automatic models are equipped with the Longines-exclusive Caliber L888. This movement is based on the ETA A31.L11, re-engineered to meet Longines’ specifications. 

The L888 boasts a robust 72-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to run for three full days without winding, which is perfect for weekend divers or anyone rotating between watches. It operates at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, offering smooth hand motion and excellent timekeeping stability.

Multiple Strap Combinations

The Longines HydroConquest offers two primary strap options: rubber straps or metal bracelets, each available in a range of colors and finishes to perfectly complement the watch’s design. These straps significantly alter the overall look and feel of the watch, making it adaptable to various lifestyles and preferences. 

For me, the rubber strap is an obvious choice, especially if you want to utilize the HydroConquest for what it’s designed for: diving. The water resistant material emphasizes the design’s identity as a true diver’s watch and will work perfectly for those of you who love being in, on, or around the water. 

These straps feature a beautiful-grained texture, adding depth to their sporty aesthetic, and are available in colors like black, blue, and gray to seamlessly match the watch’s dial and ceramic bezel inserts. Beyond their visual appeal, rubber straps are highly practical, offering comfort, water resistance, and durability, which is ideal for active wearers. 

For a more polished and versatile appearance, the metal bracelets are an excellent choice. Featuring a classic three-row link architecture, they strike a balance between sporty and dressy. 

The bracelets come in two configurations: full stainless steel or two-tone, with steel and gold-plated links. The finishing is meticulous, with brushed outer links providing a rugged feel and polished inner links adding a touch of sophistication. This combination creates a dynamic interplay of textures, ensuring the bracelet looks equally at home with casual or formal attire. 

Both the rubber straps and metal bracelets are equipped with double-safety folding clasps and push-piece opening mechanisms. These features enhance the watch’s security on the wrist, giving wearers confidence whether they’re diving or simply going about their day.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Longines HydroConquest is one of those watches that just works no matter what you throw at it or what you wear it to. Seriously, it’s a watch that can hike up a mountain, dive into a pool, and still look sharp at a formal event all on the same day. 

On the wrist, it’s a dream. The angular case design, polished details, and slim profile mean it looks great and feels even better. The sapphire crystal is practically indestructible, and the 300-meter water resistance means it’s ready for everything from casual swims to full-on scuba adventures. 

And one of the biggest benefits: once you’ve left the pool, you can easily keep it on for those formal events. That touch of polish, the sharp case lines, and the compact case height mean it’s dressy enough to slide right under a shirt cuff. This thing pulls off a tuxedo just as easily as it does board shorts. 

Now, let’s talk about size because this watch is all about options. With case sizes from 32mm to 44mm, there’s literally something for everyone. Personally, I have small wrists (around 5 inches), so I gravitate toward the 32mm models for dressier vibes or the 39mm for when I want something a little bolder. 

If your wrists are on the larger side—say 6.5 inches or more—the 41mm and 44mm will most likely suit your frame better. But these are just my suggestions. My best advice is to try one on yourself or compare the sizes to something you already own. 

Price & Availability

For now, the Longines HydroConquest collection is a permanent fixture in the brand’s lineup, meaning there are no limited editions to worry about. This means these models are here to stay until Longines decides to refresh them. This also gives collectors a sense of stability, knowing that they can always find a HydroConquest model that suits their style and needs. 

As for pricing, it varies depending on the case size and movement you choose. The most affordable models are the 39mm, 41mm, and 44mm quartz versions, which start at around $1,100. 

These are perfect for those who want the iconic HydroConquest look and feel without breaking the bank. If you’re leaning toward the 32mm quartz models, expect to pay a bit more, around $1,775, due to their added luxury touches like diamonds and mother of pearl. 

Surprisingly, the automatic versions aren’t much more expensive than their quartz counterparts. So, if you can swing it, the automatic variants are definitely worth considering. 

These start at $1,375 and go up to $2,025 for the larger 44mm models, especially those with two-tone steel and gold cases and bracelets. It’s great value, considering you’re getting an upgraded movement with a 72-hour power reserve, not to mention the added prestige of an automatic watch. 

Availability is generally pretty solid, but like any popular model, certain configurations or colors may sell out faster than others. Still, with the HydroConquest’s enduring appeal, you can usually find one in stock at major authorized dealers and retailers like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

So, to summarize, the Longines HydroConquest is fantastic. There’s really not much else to say. It’s one of those rare watches that checks all the boxes, becoming the perfect daily beater, offering a perfect balance of style, durability, and versatility. Whether you’re diving into the ocean, heading out for a hike up a mountain, or suiting up for a formal event, this watch will always have your back. 

It’s tough, with 300 meters of water resistance, scratch-resistant sapphire glass, and a robust case. Yet, it’s also refined enough to slide under a shirt cuff and look sharp at a business meeting or dinner date. It’s one of those watches you’ll never have to worry about. It’ll always keep up with your lifestyle, and the variety of sizes, strap options, and movements mean there’s a perfect configuration for just about everyone. 

Bottom line? The HydroConquest is versatile, comfortable, and just a joy to wear. It’ll forever be one of the top watches I recommend, especially if you like the love of some of the more expensive diving watches on the market but don’t quite have the bank balance to support it.

When it comes to watches, picking the right case size is like choosing the perfect pair of jeans. It has to fit just right; not too tight and not too loose. It needs to feel like a watch that has been designed for you. 

Sure, the colors, metals and technology are important but for me, size is one of the most important aspects of a watch because it changes how it feels on your wrist, how it wears day to day, and how it looks to everyone else. 

Most of us have tried on several round watches in our lives, so those feel a little easier to size up. But the Cartier Santos? That is a little bit more complex. Its square case with curved edges throws everything you think you know about sizing right out the window. It’s bold, stylish, and designed to turn heads, which makes nailing the size even more important. 

Right now, the Parisian watchmaker offers the Santos in two main sizes: Medium and Large. And if you’re debating between the two, know that you’re not alone. It’s a common dilemma for anyone eyeing this timeless watch. 

So, without further ado, let’s get to know the Cartier Santos collection a little better and help you figure out which model will suit your wrist, taste and budget best.

The Cartier Santos Collection

The Cartier Santos is definitely up there with one of the most iconic watches in history. I try not to use that word too often, but it feels warranted in this case. It’s a watch that dates back to 1904 when Louis Cartier, the founder of Cartier watches, joined forces with his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pioneer, to create a pilot’s watch. Santos-Dumont wanted a timepiece that he could check mid-flight without having to fumble with a pocket watch. 

Yes, you read that right. The Cartier Santos was indeed one of the first wristwatches ever created. In fact, it’s known for being the first men’s wristwatch invented (the first women’s wristwatch goes to the Breguet No. 2639 which was designed for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810 by Abraham-Louis Breguet.) 

The Cartier Santos made its debut in the early years of the 1900’s, boasting a sleek, bold and distinctive square-shaped case that made it stand out even more from the classically round pocket watches of the era. It was a watch made for innovators, and it quickly gained a reputation for being as daring as the man it was made for.

Fast forward to the 1970s, and the Santos saw a major glow-up. Cartier introduced the Santos de Cartier in steel and gold, making it one of the first luxury watches to embrace steel in a big way. This was a time when luxury was all about gold and precious metals, but Cartier went ahead and mixed things up. And of course, it worked. The Santos became an icon of casual elegance, a watch that could do it all from black-tie galas to lazy Sundays. 

Over the years, the Santos has seen countless updates and variations. There’s been new materials, different sizes, and all sorts of dial options. But no matter how much it’s evolved, the Santos has always stayed true to its roots: a square case, exposed screws on the bezel, and that unmistakable blend of form and function. 

Then came 2016 when the watch was discontinued, disappearing altogether from the French watchmaker’s portfolio. But thankfully, that didn’t last long, because Cartier brought the Santos back in a big way at SIHH in 2018. The revamped Santos retained all the design elements we know and love but added modern updates that made it even more wearable. For one, Cartier introduced the SmartLink system, which lets you adjust the bracelet without any tools. Plus, they threw in an interchangeable strap system, so you can switch between leather and metal effortlessly. 

Design-wise, the modern Cartier Santos is a dream. The square case has just the right amount of curve to hug your wrist comfortably. The bezel now flows seamlessly into the bracelet, giving the watch a more streamlined look. And those exposed screws are still there, loud and proud, as a nod to the watch’s industrial-chic vibe. 

When it comes to choosing a specific model, the Cartier Santos collection has plenty of choice. Want a classic white dial with Roman numerals? Got it. Prefer a skeletonized dial that shows off the movement? That’s on the menu too. Case materials? Take your pick from stainless steel, gold, two-tone, or even ADLC-coated black for a more modern edge. There’s a Santos for every taste and occasion. 

But while picking a dial design or case material feels relatively straightforward, deciding between the Medium and Large sizes can be a touch more difficult. After all, the Medium and Large are both gorgeous and they share much of the same DNA. So how do you choose?

Cartier Santos Large vs Medium – The Right Size for You 

I hate to break it to you but choosing between the Cartier Santos Medium and Large isn’t going to be easy, even with our advice. First of all, I highly recommend you head into your local authorised Cartier dealer and try these watches on for size – literally. It’s the best way to know which model will suit you best. But if that’s not possible, here are some tips on how to help you pick the right Cartier Santos for your wrist. 

First things first, neither of these watches should be considered small. While some brands use terms like “medium” or “mid-size” as code for “ladies’ watch,” Cartier isn’t playing that game here. The Santos Medium measures 35.1mm by 41.9mm, and trust me, even described as “medium”, it still makes a statement. Thanks to the square case design, it actually wears larger than a round watch of comparable size, so don’t let the “medium” label fool you. 

The Large, on the other hand, takes things up a notch. At 39.8mm by 47.5mm, it’s a serious wrist presence. It’s also a touch thicker, with a height of just over 9mm. This is the Santos that demands attention the moment it peeks out from under your cuff. 

It’s also worth considering the very slight difference in technology here. While both the Cartier Santos Medium and Large models are powered by the same movement, Cartier’s in-house calibre 1847 MC, the smaller variant comes without the classic date window at 6 o’clock. This might not make much difference to everybody, but I know plenty of watch collectors out there – myself included – that prefer a dateless display for a cleaner dial layout. 

But at the end of the day, both sizes are statement pieces. The Santos has never been a watch designed to fade into the background, it’s meant to be noticed. The polished bezel with exposed screws, bold Roman numerals, and square case all scream confidence and style. That said, the Medium offers a slightly more refined vibe. It’s bold, yes, but not overwhelming. It’s the kind of watch that fits a little more seamlessly into any setting, whether you’re at a business meeting or a casual dinner. The Large, however, is unapologetically bold. 

You will need to take into account your own wrist size, mainly for comfort. If your wrists are on the smaller side, the Medium will likely sit better. Its smaller dimensions make it less likely to feel bulky or overpowering, and it’s less prone to knocking into things during your daily routine. The Large, while still comfortable, is a heftier piece. On smaller wrists, it might feel a bit top-heavy, and there’s a higher chance of accidental bumps or scratches. But if your wrists are on the larger side, the Large Santos will sit beautifully, offering that perfect balance of presence and proportion.

Finally, there are a couple of design differences worth noting. While both share the core DNA like the square case, prominent screw-decorated bezel and in-house movement, certain dial designs or materials options are only exclusive to one size. For example, the Cartier Santos Large often gets more adventurous variations like a skeletonised dial which showcases the inner workings of the movement and cases in ADLC coating. 

Meanwhile, the Cartier Santos Medium sticks to the traditional dial layout with Roman numerals and cases in classic stainless steel and gold. This makes it an excellent choice for those who prefer the timeless elegance of the original Santos, and less so for those that want something a touch more modern. 

Who Should Go for the Medium?

The Cartier Santos Medium is perfect for someone who:

• Has smaller wrists (around 6-7 inches in circumference)
• Prefers a watch that’s bold but not overpowering
• Values a clean, minimalist dial without a date display
• Wants a piece that transitions effortlessly from day to night

The Santos Medium is for those who appreciate subtlety and elegance but still want a watch that makes a statement. It’s refined without being boring, and it’s comfortable enough to wear every day. 

Who Should Go for the Large?

The Cartier Santos Large is the watch for you if: 

• You have larger wrists (7 inches and up)
• You want a watch that turns heads and commands attention
• A date complication is a must-have feature
• You’re all about making bold style choices

The Santos Large is a statement piece in every sense of the word. It’s confident, daring, and unapologetically bolds so it’s perfect if you’re someone who isn’t afraid to stand out.

Conclusion 

So, there you have it, the Cartier Santos Medium vs. Large showdown. Ultimately, the choice comes down to you: your taste, your wrist size, and yes, even your budget. Both sizes are equally iconic, offering that perfect blend of boldness and sophistication that defines the Santos. 

If you prefer a slightly more understated look or have smaller wrists, the Medium is a fantastic option. It’s refined, comfortable, and still manages to make a statement without being overwhelming. On the flip side, the Large is for those who want to go all-in on presence and impact, particularly if your wrist can handle its bolder proportions. 

And we can’t leave without briefly mentioning the price difference. The Medium is a few hundred dollars less expensive than the Large. It’s likely not a dealbreaker for most of you, but it’s worth considering. I have no doubt that whichever you choose, you’ll just be glad you chose to invest in a watch as iconic as this. Honestly, the Cartier Santos is a brilliant timepiece in so many ways and is a talking point no matter the size.

Today, we’re talking about Mathey-Tissot and Tissot. Now, depending on how deep you are into the world of horology, you might know one, neither, or both. But if you’ve ever wondered if Mathey-Tissot and Tissot are the same brands, then don’t worry, you are not alone. 

We’ve all confused watch brands or even timepiece-related terminologies at least once in our watch-collecting careers (yes, I mixed up chronometer and chronograph once upon a time). And equally, the question of whether Mathey-Tissot and Tissot are the same watch brand is another common question. 

First of all, let me clear that up right now: nope, they’re not. Sure, they both have “Tissot” in their name, and you might even argue that a few of their designs can make you do a double-take. 

However, these two are entirely separate Swiss watch manufacturers, each with their own unique history, innovations, and style. In today’s post, we’re diving into the world of these two brands, including where they came from, what makes them tick, and how their modern-day collections stack up.

The Mathey-Tissot Brand 

Mathey-Tissot is a name that might ring a bell, but that could well be because it’s so often confused with the more globally recognized Tissot. But as I said in the introduction, these are two entirely different entities. 

While Tissot is something of a titan in the watch industry, Mathey-Tissot has quietly carved out its own niche, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts who value heritage and affordable design. 

Founded in 1886 in the village of Les Ponts-de-Martel in Switzerland, Mathey-Tissot built its reputation on precision timekeeping and traditional craftsmanship. 

Though not as widely known, this independent brand has earned respect for its quality and affordability. From its origins in repeater pocket watches to supplying the U.S. Army during WWI, Mathey-Tissot has become a brand defined by resilience and adaptability.

History of Mathey-Tissot 

The story of Mathey-Tissot begins in the late 19th century in the picturesque Swiss Jura Mountains. Edmond Mathey-Tissot, a skilled local watchmaker, established the brand in 1886 in Les Ponts-de-Martel. The brand initially focused on producing repeater watches and pocket timepieces, gaining recognition for their precision and quality. 

But their rise to prominence really began when they launched their line of chronograph watches. The Second Boer War in 1899 created a demand for highly accurate timekeeping instruments, and Mathey-Tissot stepped up to the challenge. The brand’s chronographs became so popular among military personnel that it had to expand its production facilities. 

Shortly after, it seems like the Scottish nobility took notice, and one nobleman famously ordered 2,500 watches, presenting gold models to officers and silver ones to enlisted men. These timepieces were recognized for their exceptional reliability, earning accolades from prestigious institutions like the Kew Observatory in 1914. 

Mathey-Tissot’s reputation continued to grow during World War I when it became a key supplier of chronographs to the U.S. Army. These watches were prized for their precision and durability, leading General John Pershing to award them to his top officers. 

And, understandably, their strong military history led to personnel relying once again on Mathey-Tissot watches during World War II, with even the Royal Navy known for wearing some of their models. 

However, It wasn’t until the 20th century until Mathey-Tissot gained real popularity outside the military. They caught the eye of none other than Elvis Presley, who owned and gifted personalized Mathey-Tissot watches to his inner circle. 

However, like so many traditional watchmakers, Mathey-Tissot faced significant challenges during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. The advent of affordable, accurate quartz watches disrupted the industry, and Mathey-Tissot struggled to compete. 

The brand eventually came under Chinese ownership, shifting its focus to entry-level watches while retaining its Swiss heritage. Today, Mathey-Tissot continues to produce affordable, well-crafted timepieces, combining classic designs with modern accessibility. 

Popular Mathey-Tissot Watches 

Mathey-Tissot may not dominate the luxury market quite like Tissot, but it offers a range of models that deliver excellent value for money. With price points typically between $200 and $1,200, the brand caters to those who appreciate Swiss craftsmanship without breaking the bank. Here are just some of the standout models Mathey-Tissot has to offer: 

Mathy III

The Mathy III is a testament to Mathey-Tissot’s focus on classic design and functionality. This versatile watch features a clean dial layout with sleek baton markers and a wonderful faceted bezel that captures the light beautifully. 

There are models in steel, gold, or two-toned with options secured by leather or metal straps. The Mathey III is one of those easy-to-wear watches that suits both formal and casual occasions, striking a nice balance between tradition and modernity. 

Mathy Evasion

If you’ve ever admired the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Mathy Evasion might catch your eye. Whether it’s intentionally inspired by the legendary design or not, there are clear similarities between these two watches – at least aesthetically. 

It has the same cushion-shaped case, wide flat bezel, and H-link bracelet. You’re not going to get an in-house movement, but if you’re happy with a Swiss quartz caliber, it’s definitely an attractive choice for budget-conscious enthusiasts. 

Mathy Ceramic

For those who admire the look of the Rolex Submariner but want a more accessible alternative, the Mathy Ceramic is a strong contender. 

With a unidirectional ceramic bezel, luminous markers, and a robust stainless-steel case, this dive watch embodies the rugged elegance of its higher-priced counterparts. While it lacks some of the advanced technology found in luxury divers, it offers exceptional value for its price point. 

Mathy GMT

Travelers will appreciate the Mathy GMT, a practical and stylish watch designed to track multiple time zones. 

Featuring a secondary hour hand and a 24-hour bezel, the Mathy GMT is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Its classic design makes it a versatile companion for globetrotters plus, I’ve even spotted a particular model with an all too familiar blue and red “Pepsi” bezel.

The Tissot Brand

Now, I’m not saying Tissot is as well-known as timepiece giants like Rolex or Omega, but they are certainly a name you’re more likely going to be familiar with compared to Mathey-Tissot. 

You might have spotted their branding while watching the MotoGP since Tissot has been the official timekeeper for the FIM MotoGP World Championship since 2001. Or, you might already be familiar with their watchmaking prowess, considering they are well-known for precision, elegance, and innovation. 

The History of Tissot 

Tissot’s story began in 1853, when Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son, Charles-Émile, founded Charles-Félicien Tissot & Son in Le Locle, Switzerland. 

Initially, the company operated as an assembly workshop, sourcing components such as cases, crowns, and straps from local craftsmen and assembling them into complete timepieces. The first Tissot watches were pocket and pendant watches aimed primarily at the burgeoning American market. 

Tissot’s international success began with a stroke of serendipity. In 1858, Charles-Émile traveled to Russia, where he eventually settled and married. 

His strong connections in Moscow helped the brand penetrate the Russian market, establishing a foothold that fuelled its growth. By 1885, Tissot was a respected name across Russia and had also begun expanding its reach in Europe and beyond. 

In 1907, Tissot opened its first factory in the nearby town of Chemin de Tourelles, a location that remains the brand’s headquarters to this day. 

By 1917, the company had taken a significant step forward by establishing its own manufacturing facilities, enabling it to produce movements and components in-house. This move reduced costs, improved quality control, and allowed Tissot to offer high-end watches at more accessible prices.

Ever since, Tissot has been at the forefront of horological innovation. In 1930, the brand introduced the first-ever non-magnetic wristwatch, setting a new industry standard. Tissot also experimented with unconventional materials and created watches made from plastic, wood, and even mother-of-pearl long before these were common in watchmaking. 

In the same year, Tissot merged with Omega to form the first Swiss watchmaking association, SSIH. This partnership strengthened both brands and allowed them to share resources and expertise while still maintaining their distinct identities. 

Like Mathey-Tissot, Tissot also faced challenges during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. However, its decision to join the Swatch Group in 1998 proved to be a masterstroke. As part of this prestigious conglomerate, which includes iconic brands like Omega, Longines, Rado, and Hamilton, Tissot has since flourished, bringing together its rich history with modern marketing and production capabilities. 

Best-Known Tissot Watches 

Tissot’s diverse portfolio includes a wide range of watches, from elegant dress pieces to rugged sports models retailing between $400 and $3,500. Here are some of the brand’s most iconic offerings:

Tissot PRX 

I might be a little biased here because I’m a proud owner of a Tissot PRX, but I truly believe this to be one of the best entry-level integrated sports watches out there. It’s a masterclass of retro-modern design, bringing back to life the brand’s original PRX model from the 1970s. 

It features a fluid integrated case and bracelet and a range of sleek, minimalist dials that evoke vintage cool. The quartz models are the most affordable, but I’ll forever be impressed by those powered by their in-house Powermatic 80 movement, a calibre that is automatic winding, anti-magnetic, and offers an outstanding 80-hour power reserve.

Tissot Gentleman

As its name suggests, the Tissot Gentleman is the perfect watch for those who appreciate classic sophistication. This model boasts a timeless design with a clean dial, polished indices, and a date window. It’s also available in a range of finishes, including stainless steel and rose gold and can also be found powered by their Powermatic 80 movement. 

Tissot PR100 Chronograph

The Tissot PR100 Chronograph is another robust and functional timepiece from the Swiss watchmaker and is a testament to the brand’s associations with motorsport. 

It brings together high-precision chronograph functionality and a tachymeter bezel so you can measure speed over distance with ease. It’s one of the many reasons this novelty is prized by racing enthusiasts and professionals alike. 

Tissot Seastar

The Tissot Seastar is the Swiss brand’s flagship diver’s watch that combines professional-grade performance with sleek aesthetics. With water resistance up to 300 meters, a unidirectional ceramic bezel, and luminous hands and markers, the Seastar is built for underwater adventures. Its robust build and stylish design make it equally suitable for daily wear. 

Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar

Finally, almost as a little excuse to show off, Tissot has a range of solar-powered smartwatches. Known as the T-Touch Connect Solar, these timepieces offer a suite of advanced features, including activity tracking, weather forecasting, and smartphone connectivity. 

They’re also entirely powered by solar energy, so you never have to wind the movement or change out the battery. Just pop it in natural or artificial light for a bit and it’ll be good to go.

Which is the Right Brand for You? 

Now you know that Mathey-Tissot and Tissot are totally different watch brands, offering their own selections of designs and technologies, you might now be asking yourself which brand is going to be best for you. Sadly, we can’t give you a straight answer. 

At the end of the day, both brands offer value, prestige, tradition, and innovation – just in their own ways. But there are some things that set them apart, so let’s take a look at them to help you work out which brand suits your style, budget, and needs.

 In my opinion, both Tissot and Mathey-Tissot are entry-level watch brands, but one is a little more budget friendly than the other. Mathey-Tissot offers several models for around $150, with some of their more expensive offerings sitting around the $4,000 mark. 

Tissot, by comparison, has few models that cost less than $300, with some of their more premium collections retailing up to $3,500. Regardless, both brands are exceptionally affordable, especially for the design and technology on offer. 

In my opinion, Tissot excels in design. Their watches are classic and elegant, and have a design DNA that differs strongly from so many others in the industry. 

On the other hand, Mathy-Tissot leans heavily into timeless and unified aesthetics that are often recognizable. This isn’t a bad thing by any means because if there’s a luxury watch out there you love the look of but don’t have the bank balance to support it, then this brand is going to be a great pick for you. But it’s something to keep in mind. 

When it comes to technology, both brands rely on Swiss craftsmanship and offer a range of manual, automatic, and quartz options. 

Mathey-Tissot tends to elect quartz movements more often than mechanical ones, while Tissot has something of an edge when it comes to their technology, using in-house mechanical movements like their Powermatic 80 caliber or solar-powered movements. 

Tissot also tends to offer more complex and accurate mechanical movements, particularly in their higher-end models, but of course, this is reflected in their price point. 

Really, the choice is up to you. If you’re on a tight budget or simply want an elegant, dependable Swiss watch, Mathey-Tissot is a strong contender. It’s an excellent starting point for anyone dipping their toes into the world of horology. 

On the other hand, if you’re looking for greater versatility, advanced features, and a touch of luxury without breaking the bank, Tissot is the brand to beat. It really depends on what you want from a watch and the budget you are working with.

Conclusion

While Mathey-Tissot and Tissot may share a slightly similar name, a Swiss heritage, and cater to entry-level watch enthusiasts, they are distinctly different brands with their own histories, lineups, and philosophies. 

Mathey-Tissot, with its classic, unified designs, and affordable price points, is perfect for those seeking timeless elegance without stretching their budget. Meanwhile, Tissot offers greater variety, innovation, and a touch of luxury, making it an excellent choice for those looking to combine style with advanced technology and craftsmanship. 

Both brands excel in delivering quality Swiss timepieces, but the right choice ultimately depends on your personal taste, lifestyle, and what you value in a watch. Whether you favor Mathey-Tissot’s understated charm or Tissot’s innovative edge, each offers something special and we have no doubt you’ll enjoy both brands, no matter which timepiece you add to your collection next.