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12 BEST Chronograph Watches Under $2,000 (No Compromise!)

Posted on December 1, 2022December 5, 2022 by Jacob Strong

There are few features that enamor a watch enthusiast like a chronograph function. I am not sure exactly what it is that draws us in, but their popularity among enthusiasts speaks for itself. With limited objective purposes that a wristwatch can provide outside of telling the time, it could simply be the fact that a chronograph gives us another way to interact with these machines we obsess over.

If that was the only factor, wouldn’t we all just aspire for the most complicated watch that we can afford? It must go deeper than that. The chronograph function turns the watch we love into an actual tool. It makes them easier to justify their necessity of ownership, not only to yourself but to your significant others as well (and isn’t that what really matters)!

If we are honest with ourselves (something most of us watch enthusiasts HATE doing), a chronograph watch doesn’t really serve any practical function in our lives that we couldn’t get from our phones. To those of you logical enough to make that argument; How exactly did you find this article? And why are you still reading? This hobby is clearly for the unhinged radicals who value precision over practicality and craftsmanship over convenience!

How many types of Chronographs are there?

As we evaluate the chronograph there are several ways to provide this functionality to our timekeepers. There are affordable quartz offerings, hand-winding mechanical movements, automatic mechanical movements, and then jaw-dropping artistry coming out of the ultra-luxury brands such as A. Lange & Sohne or Breguet. Add to this the fact that almost every brand all the way from entry-level to ultra-luxury, both mainstream and micro brands, creates a watch with a chronograph and we are certainly spoiled for choice.

Are all chronographs expensive?

Time to slam on those brakes! If you’re reading this article, you very well could be in my same shoes. A mere mortal, with enough money to pay for things you need and a little extra for the fun stuff. Unfortunately for us instead of choosing a perfectly fine hobby like collecting rocks or another free medium, you chose wristwatches; A hobby most enjoyed by those with copious amounts of spare cash.

If you work hard and are disciplined most of us could save up $2k. There are some excellent examples of wristwatches under this price that really make me question why I ever need to spend more. Chronographs rarely make these lists of best watches under $2k and there’s a good reason.

These complicated watches are expensive! Let’s take a journey to the most affordable corners of the entry-level and luxury watch market (the irony is not lost on me) and find the 12 best chronograph watches under $2k. And because I want this list to be as interesting and informative as possible, I am only going to select one watch per brand.

Budget Options for the most Frugal of Collectors

Seagull 1963

Starting off our list is a true hero of the frugal watch community. The Seagull 1963 provides a mechanical hand wind movement at a price that many other watch companies charge for a replacement strap. The version that I would go with comes with a 38mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and a classic cream dial with gold indices. The watch screams vintage and has small pops of flair like a red star on the dial to help it stand out from the crowd.

The real showstopper here is the in-house Seagull ST19 hand wind mechanical chronograph. The movement is manufactured in China but based on the famed Venus caliber 175. Prices vary on this model depending on how you choose to spec it out, but even if you spec it to the top, you’ll be under $500, let alone the $2000 budget we have here. You might even have enough left over to pick yourself up a nice time-only piece to round out the collection.

Bulova Chronograph A 98A252

If the vintage design is your thing, but you’d rather have a piece that you can just pick up and go, look no further than the Bulova Chronograph A. This model, which is commonly referred to as the “surfboard” by collectors, has a great vintage aesthetic but will be ready for action thanks to the robust quartz movement.

The watch features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and a nice 200-meter water resistance. The real stand out for this watch is the surfboard-style sub-register layout and bicolor dive bezel. This gives the timepiece a very sporty vibe. There are lots of colors to choose from within this model, but the black and red really sing to me.

This model will come matched with a tropic-style rubber strap allowing you to not only look at a surfboard on the dial but have the option to actually jump on a real one and catch some waves. With a list price hovering around the $700 mark and discounts almost always available, this watch is far from a budget buster.

Citizen Promaster Skyhawk A-T JY8078-52L

In the world of chronographs, pilot-inspired timepieces are highly coveted and commonly drawn upon for inspiration. If the $6k plus market for a new Breitling Navitimer isn’t for you, but you want something with serious aviation heritage, then Citizen and their Promaster Skyhawk line might be exactly what you’re looking for. This version is a Blue Angels edition and comes with a classic blue and yellow color scheme to match.

The stainless steel case comes in at a hefty 45mm, but given how many complications they managed to squeeze on this, the size is more than justified. My favorite attribute of this watch is the Eco-Drive movement, gaining its power from the sun as opposed to a traditional battery. Add to this the atomic timekeeping feature, slide rule bezel, and endless digital features and you have a watch that can almost do it all, whether you’re in a plane or not, at less than $800.

Micro Brand Offerings for those Seeking Something to Match with their Favorite IPA
Unimatic U3 Classic

One of the best ways to stretch your hard-earned dollar in the world of watch collecting is through the exploration of micro brands. This area can be hit or miss, but there are a few brands on this list that absolutely knock it out of the park. The first of these brands is Unimatic with their U3 Classic. This quartz-powered chronograph carries the distinct Unimatic Italian aesthetic and seamlessly integrates a chronograph function.

This watch comes in a 41.5mm stainless steel case and features a sapphire crystal and unique meca-quartz caliber with the use of the Seiko VK64. This movement utilizes a mechanical chronograph module that is added to a typical quartz-powered watch.

If you are mesmerized by the smooth sweep of a mechanical watch, this chronograph may be enough to scratch the itch. Combine this technology with the distinct no-frills look of a Unimatic and you have a very compelling option at roughly $700.

Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip (Gen 2)

Perhaps one of the best examples of a microbrand catching fire in the watch community is Studio Underd0g. Their bold color choices helped them achieve success almost immediately while introducing their collection to the world during the uncertainty of a global pandemic. The watermelon color iteration receives a lot of glory, but I am an absolute sucker for their Mint Ch0c Chip design. The mint green dial and brown accents help to give this watch its namesake and the combo works surprisingly well.

This watch features 38.5mm stainless steel case and is powered by the previously mentioned ST19 mechanical chronograph. The price will come in at close to double what you could find a Seagull 1963 for and good luck finding one in stock as they are almost always out of stock. Even with those drawbacks, this watch deserves all of the hype that it has received and I would certainly line up for 2 scoops of this!

Maen Skymaster 38 MKII-Panda

If you’re open to a micro brand but lust after something a little more traditional, there are few brands that can pack as much of a punch as Maen. Their Skymaster 38 MKII has a beautiful 38mm stainless steel case and features a 12-hour ceramic uni-directional GMT bezel.

Add this functionality to the already pleasing visual representation and you have a watch that is hard to beat at any price. Where Maen really separates itself from the other micro brands on this list is its use of a top-grade Swiss ETA 2892-2 movement.

This modular chronograph allows this watch to come in at a very svelte 12.9mm. The panda dial variation with the bracelet is my favorite of the current offerings and even with this upgrade, you are still looking at less than $1100. As is the case with many of these lower-production micro brands, supply can be hard to come by. It’s like people have figured out that this is a tremendous value or something.

Sticking to the Classics of Mainstream Entry Level Luxury

Longines Conquest Chronograph Quartz-L3.700.4.96.6

There are few brands in the luxury watch space that carry as much name cache among the general population as Longines. With a history dating back to the 19th century and some of the greatest watchmaking achievements under their belt, the Longines name stands for something.

All of their traditional mechanical chronograph movements, despite presenting some of the most significant value among all chronograph watches, do fall just outside of our $2k parameter. That’s when our favorite cost-saving movement, quartz, is here to save the day.

The Conquest Chronograph is aesthetically very similar to the automatic version, featuring a 41mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and unique button pushers that scream Longines. The quartz movement in this watch is the L440.2 manufactured by ETA and is capable of measuring 1/100th of a second.

Considering that human reaction time is considerably higher than that number, this watch is as accurate as humanly possible. If precision in a chronograph is what you are looking for, you simply won’t do better than this Longines Conquest Chronograph and you won’t even need to spend $1500 to get it.

Christopher Ward C65 Chronograph C65-41ACH1-S0BB0-B0

Long considered one of the mainstays of the micro brand community, Christopher Ward has done enough for the watchmaking community, and British watchmaking, in particular, to graduate to a mainstream brand. Sure, they are still disrupting the industry and cutting out the middleman (collective watch enthusiast eye roll), but they are going about it the right way. The C65 Chronograph is a beautiful example of what makes Christopher Ward so great.

A 41mm Stainless steel case, screw-down pushers, and sapphire crystal help give you the confidence that this watch will stand the test of time. What really helps set this watch apart is its use of vintage-inspired colors and sub-dials.

I can’t help but picture this watch in a Steve McQueen film and very much look the part. Pair this with their use of a Swiss-made Sellita SW510 automatic movement and you have a very compelling option for anyone looking to buy a chronograph, whether you have a $2k ceiling or not. Lucky for you, this great watch will set you back at less than $1800.

Certina DS Chronograph Automatic

If traditional watch design is more your speed, there are few options that will look as classy as the DS Chronograph from Certina. This design evokes the spirit of something that would be coming out of the Holy Trinity and not a mid-tier brand of the Swatch group.

Coming in with a 42mm case and 14mm case thickness, this watch may struggle to be your exclusive dress watch, but luckily with the swap of a strap, this watch would look just at home with jeans and a sweater. The DS Chronograph is powered by a modified ETA movement that incorporates silicone components into a traditional 7750.

Despite looking the part of a watch from a bygone era, the modern sizing and use of modern components help elevate this watch to suitable everyday wear. Despite having these improvements, this watch still finds a way to slide beneath the $2k budget, even if there is literally nothing to spare.

My picks- The 3 Chronographs that have me in Jeopardy of Sleeping on the Couch

Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph T137.427.11.041.00

I am not sure if you know this, but blue dial integrated steel sports watches are kind of having a moment. Despite most of these mainstream offerings being presented from brands who would never be on a list like this, Tissot decided to change the game and make something for the common folk.

The Tissot PRX has had a meteoric rise in popularity and the expansions in this line are evidence of this. The PRX Automatic Chronograph is the best iteration of this line yet, combining the iconic design and Swiss Made automatic chronograph movement.

The 42mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet may reserve this option to watch enthusiasts with average or above-average wrists, but the cool vibes of this piece have me considering bulking up to put some meat on these chicken wrists.

The Blue dial and white sub-dials give this watch a classic look, that will have no problem adding just enough pizazz to any outfit. This watch is coming in at under $1800 and with the extra cash, you might be able to score yourself a nice integrated rubber strap to mix things up.

Hamilton Aviation Pilot Pioneer Auto Chrono H76416135

Of all the watches on this list the Hamilton Aviation Pilot Pioneer Auto Chrono surprised me the most. To be honest, I didn’t know that it existed. I went to Hamilton’s website only to be gutted that the beloved Intra-Matic falls outside of my price range. This watch however is the silver lining to that devastating story. This watch features a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by the same H-31 automatic movement as the aforementioned Intra-Matic.

What makes this watch really stand out is its timeless design. There is something about this watch that feels very familiar and I can’t quite put my finger on it. Of all of the watches that have made this “prestigious” list, this feels like the safest choice.

A watch that will go unnoticed yet always be there when you need it. The Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono comes in at just under our $2k budget but considering the stainless steel bracelet and similar components of the Intra-Matic (the one well over our budget) you’re getting a terrific value.

Seiko Presage SRQ025

If you thought that I was going to complete a value-packed list of any type of watch and not include a Seiko, you must be out of your mind! There is no brand that can pack as much value into a wristwatch as Seiko. Even after allowing their prices to catch up to the rest of the market, what you get far exceeds what they are asking for their watches.

The Seiko Presage Chronograph is no exception. Much like the Certina, the modern case size of 42mm and 15.2mm (that’s thicc with 2 c’s) may not match up exactly with the traditional design, but I am ok with it!

The beautiful dial pattern, intricate numerals, and stunning case finish are enough to let me overlook the extra heft. The in-house 8R48 Movement powering this watch offers all of the robustness you would expect from a Seiko while also rivaling the Swiss in overall construction and build quality.

We all know that Seiko can sometimes fall behind the Swiss in terms of +/- tolerances of daily deviation, but that’s something a qualified watchmaker could sort out in an afternoon. You’re going to eat up almost all of that $2k budget with this watch, but this Seiko absolutely deserves it.

Conclusion

So there you have it, 12 of the best chronograph watches your hard-earned $2k can afford you. There are several other options we could explore if we were willing to look at more than one option from each brand.

Even with this price restriction, it appears we are still very spoiled for choice. You might have to explore some options you wouldn’t need to if it wasn’t a chronograph you’re heart desired, but if there is one thing I learned from this exercise it’s that variety is fun!

Take a look at micro brands when you’re bored of seeing the same old options. Be willing to look past that quartz watch snobbery when looking for a more complicated watch on a budget. More than anything, however, when researching a watch with the value being the main criteria, remember this one simple adage; All roads lead to Seiko (at least for me they do)!
Happy watch hunting!

Longines Vs. Rado Watches (EVERYTHING You Should Know)

Posted on November 30, 2022October 6, 2023 by Jacob Strong

A Battle of mid-tier SWATCH group brands
If you are anything like me, the mention of the SWATCH group conjures up 2 extremes to Swiss watchmaking. There is the premium luxury led by flagship brand Omega, a legitimate rival to industry powerhouse Rolex in providing robust luxury watches with real history and brand cache.

And then there is the actual Swatch Watch, a seemingly disposable, and incredibly collectible, entry point into Swiss watchmaking. What about the area in between these extremes? That’s where the 2 brands we are comparing today both reside. Longines Vs. Rado: Both of these brands provide exceptional value for watch enthusiasts, with unique histories, innovations, and styles, but which one is right for you?

History of Longines

There are few brands (not just watch brands) that date back as far as Longines. Originating back in 1832, the company was founded by Auguste Agassiz in the small Swiss village of St-Imier. From there the brand exploded in popularity and was a pioneer in Swiss Watchmaking. From the first wristwatch with a chronograph in 1913 to the first watch with a rotating bezel in 1931, Longines developed many of the technologies that have become commonplace by today’s standards.

Although their current placement in the brand hierarchy has them pegged a notch below fellow SWATCH group brand Omega and their chief competitor in Rolex, there was a time when Longines was viewed as an equally luxurious brand. After being acquired by the future SWATCH group in 1971, many feel that Longines lost a lot of its allure.

The innovation that carried them to greatness in the early 1900s was replaced by a “play it safe” mentality, relying solely on their name to separate them in an inflated marketplace. If this was the way the story ended for Longines, it would be a tragic tale of another once-great manufacturer losing its way in the face of adversity. Fortunately for all of us, this story has a very different ending.

Longines Today

Today, Longines is a brand that caters to both watch enthusiasts and average consumers alike. There are two sides to Longines as a current manufacturer. They specialize in creating value-packed, albeit safe, entry-level luxury watches, such as the Hydroconquest. Then there is the other side to Longines. One that digs back into its historical catalog and creates beautiful vintage reinterpretations.

In my opinion, there are few, if any, companies that can do this as well as Longines. From one of the first examples of the modern vintage diver craze, the Longines Legend Diver, to the newly released Record Heritage Diver, these beautiful reinterpretations have all the appeal of their vintage counterparts without the inherent risk of a vintage timepiece.

Are Longines Watches a good investment?

Like any Swiss watch brand, the value retention of a watch is tied closely to the product’s overall allure. On average a Longines watch is going to drop in value by 30-50% from its original retail value. Before you swear off the brand and march to your closest Rolex AD to get on a nonexistent waitlist for a watch that you’ll probably never get, let’s look at the whole picture.

Longines, like any other SWATCH group brand, presents an opportunity for significant value. Depending on the popularity of the model you are after, you might be able to negotiate a discount off of the MSRP. Although it is far from a guarantee, it is at least a possibility, unlike that other AD with a nonexistent waitlist. Another factor in play with this equation is the tremendous value Longines watches present preowned.

After allowing someone else to take the initial depreciation, a Longines watch will continue to strongly retain its value. In fact, I would argue that many of the pieces we are going to discuss later will not only maintain value but also have the opportunity to gain value while inching closer to closing that initial depreciation gap.

History of Rado

There is no doubt that Longines packs a very serious punch for both your everyday consumer and watch enthusiast, but how does the other dog in this fight fare? The Rado watch company is a relatively newbie at just over 100 years old, with an origin story beginning in 1917. 100 years is impressive by any standard, but keep in mind Longines was already 85 years young when Rado was first conceived.

The Rado watch company didn’t really begin developing its own timepieces until 1957. Their first couple of decades designing their own timepieces resulted in some classically designed timepieces with some minor design aesthetics to help differentiate from the crowd. The Golden Horse and Captain Cook models from this time are very great examples of classic watchmaking of their respective eras.

Classic design and watchmaking are not the first two words I would associate with Rado from the 1970s on. The 1970s were an experimental time for a lot of Swiss watch designers. Where most companies like Tudor and Heuer got creative with their color pallet, Rado went in another direction altogether.

They earned themselves the reputation of the Master of Materials with their use of ceramic, sapphire, and even a 10,000 Vickers V10K high-tech diamond. Their willingness to take a risk was not limited to just the materials that they used in their construction as their case designs are distinctly Rado and very unconventional.

Rado Today

Today, Rado still inspires by their use of unconventional materials and designs. Like Longines, and several other once-independent Swiss watch companies, Rado was acquired by the SWATCH group in 1998. Despite still having this modern and futuristic ethos to the design language they recently released some charming recreations of their earlier timepieces, such as Captain Cook.

Personally, I am a sucker for a well-done vintage recreation, but I can’t help but feel that this does not exactly line up with the identity Rado has forged over the last 40 years. At the end of the day, every watch company needs to sell watches and vintage recreations of 1960’s dive watches will always have a greater consumer demand than a modern designed ceramic piece.

Is Rado watches a good investment?

Do Rado watches hold their value? Much like Longines, certain models will retain their value to a fair extent. Their popular models will lose roughly 30-50% once you purchase them. Discounts are certainly a possibility for these models which would help close some of that depreciation gap. In terms of Value, preowned will be the best option available.

If you can find an excellent condition preowned model you can save roughly 50% of the retail price and your money will be relatively safe. One thing to keep in mind compared to Longines is that Rado is significantly less popular in terms of units sold and therefore you may need to be patient as availability is less abundant.

Some of the less desirable, more futuristic-looking Rado watches, will generally depreciate at a higher percentage. Despite this value depreciation, if I had to bet on which of these would have the potential to increase in value over time, I would go for the most Rado looking Rado I could find!

Head-to-head

When it comes to the most popular watches to compare between these brands, Rado is easy, it is Captain Cook. Longines are a little more difficult to pinpoint. They have 2 models that meet these criteria the Hydroconquest and the Legend Diver. Since I am weak and could not choose a definitive option, I will compare Captain Cook to each of these models and even pick which one would get my hard-earned money.

Longines Hydroconquest Vs Rado Captain Cook

The 43mm Longines Hydroconquest, ref. number L3.782.4.96.6, is a beautiful dive watch made of stainless steel with a sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel insert. The watch is powered by the L888, which is a modified ETA movement and features a 72- hour power reserve. On paper, this watch checks a lot of boxes for the everyday consumer and also sports a pretty attractive price of roughly $1700.

Despite having many of those sought-after features that we watch enthusiasts demand, I feel that this watch is missing something. It feels very “safe” and I can’t help but feel uninspired when I it in pictures. Once on the wrist, however, this watch has the ability to be under the radar and blend into almost any situation.

Even while lacking the spark of more unique timepieces in the price segment, you’d be hard-pressed to find a more versatile piece to start or round off your collection. The 42mm Rado Captain Cook, ref. number R32505203 appears very similar to the Longines Hydroconquest on paper. This watch features a stainless steel case, ceramic bezel insert, and sapphire crystal, and is powered by the ETA C07.611, which is another modified ETA movement featuring a lower beat rate and extended power reserve.

The price on this piece however is slightly higher coming in around the $2000 mark. For this extra monetary investment, you will have to appreciate the more unique aesthetic drawing inspiration from their 1960s-era design. This design will not be for everyone, but it is certainly more unique than that of the Longines. Although there are a few strap options available on this model, the unique beads of the rice bracelet help elevate this watch to another level.

Verdict

Although this battle may seem like a comparison of two perfectly matched competitors, there are some differences that help make this an easy decision for me. Despite the extra roughly $300, the Rado runs away with this match-up. They are both great options for someone not quite ready to step up to Omega territory but who want a quality dive watch.

The Rado, in my opinion, provides a cleaner and more unique execution of a dive watch. The concave bezel, beads of rice bracelet, and large arrow hand help this watch stand apart from their sister company Longines and justify the extra investment.

Longines Legend Diver Vs Rado Captain Cook

The Rado came away with a pretty decisive win in round one, but how does Captain Cook compare to the Longines Legend Diver? In 2007 Longines tried something that would soon grow into the hottest watch trend of recent years when they reintroduced the Longines Legend Diver.

This watch has gone through a few minor tweaks over the last 15 years, but the current 42mm Longines Legend Diver, ref. number L3.774.4.50.6, at roughly $2400 still retains a lot of the charm that has allowed this watch to stand the test of time…..twice. This watch also features a stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and reliable L888 (ETA) movement, but takes a sharp turn with the inner rotating unidirectional bezel.

This style was popularized with compressor watch cases of the 1960s that earned their water resistance from the increased pressure of water at greater depths. Thankfully, this watch has only carried on the design of this style and not the functionality, as modern water resistance methods will afford this watch a much more reliable construction.

Verdict

How does the Longines Legend Diver compare to the Rado Captain Cook? Again on paper, we are presented with two pretty comparable timepieces, but this time there is a price difference of roughly $400 toward the Longines. For this extra investment, the differences will once again mostly be aesthetic. I love both of the designs of these watches personally, but there is a reason that Longines has had this recreation in production for 15 years.

I have to give a slight advantage to Longines, even after factoring in the price difference. The Legend Diver presents itself as a more unique option in a very overpopulated market segment of vintage recreation dive watches. Each brand was able to score a victory over the other in these head to heads and in many ways, this is representative of how these brands compare overall.

Pros and Cons

Let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons of each of these respectable brands. Longines is a brand that carries some serious name recognition and they have a history that rivals any prestigious watch brand in the industry. Their recent resurgence in the eyes of enthusiasts is proof that this brand is paying attention to its customers and willing to take a chance to improve its standing within the community.

On the flip side of this, before their recent push, Longines seemed to be a little lost. They struggled with their position within the SWATCH group and released some pretty questionable watches that appeared to try and capitalize on their name recognition with the average consumer. Thankfully, those days are mostly behind us, and Longines is primed to rise in the ranks of the SWATCH group hierarchy.

Rado is a company that most people outside of the watch community would fail to recognize. Depending on how you look at it, that could be seen as a pro or a con. Rado does have a pretty strong following among enthusiasts and is known for stepping outside of the box and taking a chance, with both its designs and materials.

Unfortunately, the watches that seem to gain traction for Rado are not the best representation of their brand ethos. Captain Cook, which is their most popular model, can be seen as just another vintage recreation dive watch in an already flooded market. The biggest con that I can think of for Rado is that despite their best efforts to stand out from the crowd, they still appear to be somewhat invisible unless you know exactly what you’re looking for.

That being said, I am a big fan of how they have incorporated some of their unique materials into the Captain Cook line. If there is a way for Rado to come out from the shadows of more recognized brands from the SWATCH group, like Omega and Longines, this is exactly how they will do it. With two brands as storied and unique as Longines and Rado, I am sure that there are many questions we have not been able to answer in this article.

Please take a look at our FAQ section for even more information. If I had to put my money down on one of these brands today, I would be walking away with a Longines. Not that I feel that they are better in any inherent way, just that their design aesthetic speaks to me a little more clearly.

Both of these brands offer a great entryway into the world of luxury watches, and I would be proud to wear either of these brands on my wrist. If this comparison proves anything, it is the value that exists within the SWATCH group. Omega receives a lot of attention from watch enthusiasts, and deservedly so, but mid-tier brands like Longines and Rado present tremendous value to watch enthusiasts and average consumers alike.

FP Journe Vs. Patek Philippe [The ONLY Comparison to Read]

Posted on November 30, 2022August 8, 2023 by Jacob Strong

In watch enthusiast circles there is never a shortage of details to obsess over. Whether it is the dial and bezel combo of a new Oris Divers Sixty-five you have been lusting after for months or which ultra-luxury brand between FP Journe or Patek Philippe is the king of the mountain, we always have decisions to make. As we begin to ascend through the luxury tiers in this hobby, the pros and cons tend to become less objective allowing for personal preference and style tend to shape our decisions.

If you are lucky enough to be one of the watch enthusiasts saving up for that brand new Oris, let me first say congratulations and second inform you of one of the unfortunate truths of watch collecting. No matter how blessed you are in your ability to enjoy a timepiece, there will always be someone who has more. There are fellow watch enthusiasts who see your grail investment as nothing more than a beater, something to knock around on the weekend while giving their “Haute Horlogerie” watches a rest.

While I am sure that many owners of these pieces would be quite happy to wear something from entry or mid-level luxury brands, there is no doubt that they feel the difference when they put it on their wrist. Let’s look at two of these illustrious brands that help make up the ultra-luxury subset of watch collecting. One an enthusiast crowned member of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking in Patek Philippe and the other a relative newcomer with an eccentric owner and namesake in FP Journe.

If you are lucky enough to be deciding between these two elite watchmakers, well done, you have made significantly better life choices than myself! If you make up the other 99% of readers to this article, let’s play a fun game called “If I won the Lottery”! Either way, we are going to see these two heavyweights slug it out as FP Journe Vs. Patek Philippe. Let’s decide which watchmaker of near-horological perfection is right for you.

History of Patek Philippe

The history of Patek Philippe is one of the most illustrious of all luxury brands dating back to 1839. Starting as Patek, Czapek & Cie by Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek. They were later accompanied by Jean-Adrien Philippe resulting in the brand as we recognize it today in Patek Philippe.

Specializing in complicated timepieces such as the “Duke of Regla” in 1910, which was a Westminster chime pocket watch, the company secured its place among the most prestigious Swiss watchmakers of the time. Following the universal challenges of the Great Depression, Patek Philippe found refuge in the form of two brothers willing to invest in the company in Jean and Charles Henri Stern.

If that Stern surname sounds familiar it is likely due to the fact the family still remains in control of the brand today, or you have an XM subscription and a thirst for shock jock radio. Considering you are this deep into the article already, I would be willing to bet the former.

Throughout this investment and ultimate transition to ownership of the Stern family, Patek Philippe has released some real bangers! Take for instance the Calatrava, the literal gold standard of circular dress watches. So simple, yet objectively perfect. Then there are the grand complications! Watches so complicated that I get an actual headache just trying to think of how the mechanics inside work.

I think there may have even been some weird 70’s style of watch designed by some guy named Gerald Genta. I am sure someone has heard of it before, I think it is called the Nautilus. This history of success and portfolio of some of the most iconic watches to ever grace the wrist (albeit a very well-off wrist), has helped to cement Patek Philippe as one of the Holy Trinity.

This enthusiast-crowned title was given to the three most sought-after and illustrious watchmakers in many a watch enthusiast’s eye Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and the one and only Patek Philippe. Although many agree on these three as top of the horological mountain, there are those who feel it might be time to inject some new blood into the mix. Perhaps a company like our challenger FP Journe.

History of FP Journe

In terms of the history of the Swiss watch industry, FP Journe is a fresh-faced baby. Officially founded in 1999, FP Journe is the brainchild of the one and only Francois-Paul Journe. While most ultra-luxury brands are on the 5^th or more regime, FP Journe is still operated by the watchmaker that founded it. In an industry built upon tradition and slow but steady innovation, Francois-Paul Journe is a breath of fresh air.

It is impossible to separate the brand from the watchmaker, but who exactly is Francois-Paul Journe? To put it simply, Francois-Paul Journe is a watchmaking savant. He attended watchmaking school in Paris at the tender age of 14. After a few years, he would later graduate and begin to develop all sorts of complicated watches such as a planetarium mechanism at just 22 years old.

To anyone with an understanding of the complexities of watchmaking, this is no small feat no matter how much time you have dedicated to the craft. After furthering his development with his uncle and a mentorship with the one and only George Daniels, the horological legend that created the Co-Axial escapement that powers many of Omegas modern watches and most of them holds their value, Journe opened his first workshop in 1985.

After several awards and achievements in the world of watchmaking FP Journe the brand as we know it today would officially begin in 1999. FP Journe quickly grew a cult following of dedicated collectors that were inspired by their genius and creativity of Mr. Journe. The next several years saw him opening boutique locations throughout Asia, the UK, and the United States.

The bespoke watchmaker grew into a brand capable of producing close to 1000 watches annually. Despite a minority ownership by luxury brand Chanel, FP Journe has secured its place among the most prestigious of all independent watchmakers. The history of these two great brands is very different. Patek Philippe is steeped in tradition and history.

The traditional watchmaking legacy is only recently being overshadowed by their “new” watch, the Nautilus. A watch that was released when Francois-Paul Journe was fresh out of watchmaking school. The legacy of FP Journe on the other hand is still being written. Time will tell how the brand is perceived in the next 50 or 100 years, but with Francois Paul Journe still at the helm, there are several directions this story could go.

If you are deciding between these two brands with your hard-earned money, their histories do little to help make the decision easier. With Patek Philippe you get a brand that encompasses classic watchmaking and traditionalism but with FP Journe there is an element of excitement since their history is still being made.

Since I am forcing myself to pick, I am going to award this point to Patek Philippe. I am a traditionalist! As much as I wish I could pick the more exciting option, I’d be pretending to be cooler than I actually am. Now that we have looked at the history of these 2 brands, let us dive into some of their more iconic watches and see how they compare.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – It’s the King for a reason

You can’t mention Patek Philippe watches without taking a closer look at their iconic Nautilus line. Are Patek Philippe watches the most expensive? No, there are watches from many independent brands that exceed what Patek Philippe produces, but nobody can mark up a time-only watch like Patek Philippe.

Admittedly this pricing is fueled much more by the hype associated with these models, but when a roughly $35K watch can be found on the grey market for as much as $150K, something is up. And don’t even get me started on the limited production models. $500K for a green dial, sure seems like a great deal. $6.5 million for a Tiffany Blue dial, what in the actual F@*$! What is this watch that could make people lose their minds over the slightest of variances?

The Patek Philippe Nautilus was designed by famed watch designer Gerald Genta to help compete with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which Genta also designed a few years previous, which popularized the idea of a luxurious stainless steel luxury watch.

The reference 5711 is a 40mm time-only watch, sporting a signature case shape and integrated bracelet. The watch is powered by an in-house caliber 26-330 S C and finished to a standard that only Patek Philippe can achieve, The Patek Philippe Standard. sarcasm aside, the Patek Philippe standard rivals that of the previously used Geneva Seal and for those in the know, is a big deal.

So, what’s not to love about the 5711? For starters, the prestigious movement which although absolutely beautiful and finished to the prestigious Patek Philippe standard is still just a time-only movement without a hacking second. As trivial as it seems, this lack of a pretty standard feature tends to ruffle quite a few watch enthusiasts feathers.

Add to this the fact that the bracelet uses a pin and collar system that will require a trip to the watchmaker for most owners and you’re left with what feels like an outdated luxury watch. I guess the good news is that if you have enough money to afford one of these at their current prices, especially the green or Tiffany variants, you could probably afford to keep a watchmaker on staff to make adjustments as needed.

FP Journe Chronometre Bleu- Are FP Journe watches any good?

Much like the Nautilus to Patek Philippe, the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu is often the first watch that comes to mind when people think of the brand. With a comparable MSRP of roughly $37K, this watch seems like a relative bargain to the Nautilus only commanding around $80-90k on the grey market. As insane as it seems, this watch still may even have some room left before it hits its value ceiling.

What exactly will your meager $80K bring you in the world of FP Journe? The Chronometre Bleu, reference CSBLEAU TA 39 A BL, is a 39mm time-only watch made of tantalum and matched with a beautiful alligator strap. The real showstopper here is the blue chrome dial. It demands your attention, unlike any other blue dial I have ever had the fortune of glancing at.

The watch is powered by a hand-winding caliber 1304 movement crafted out of 18k gold. The off-centered sub seconds and signature handset help to give this watch a look that is distinctly FP Journe.
As beautiful as the Chronometre Bleu is, it is not a watch for everyone. The alligator strap, while looking dapper when paired with a suit, would have a hard time with a more casual look.

In addition to that, the 30m of water resistance does not do much to instill confidence that this watch is welcome outside of its role as a stand-alone dress watch. The case features a very durable material in tantalum, but based on what we see with the rest of the watch, it appears that this is not intended to be put to the test.

The flagships from both of these watches are about as good as it gets within the watch industry. They both feature finish and construction that separate them from the pack, while also being definitive examples of their respective offerings. How do you pick a winner when the alternatives are this exceptional? Throw away all logic and reasoning and go with your gut of course!

For me, it’s the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu. I love both of these watches, but when I compare them head to head the Nautilus seems like a futuristic design that is slightly hampered by some outdated components, while the FP Journe sports a classic design with some intentional artistic flare. Not to mention, with the money left over I could easily afford almost any luxury sports watch for men in production to help fill that need.

Now that we have taken a look at the history and each of these brands’ respective icons, let’s look at the brand identity or the X factor if you will. Both of these brands present classically designed options in the ultra-luxury segment, but it’s how they differ that helps give them their distinct identity and fuel the passion of their collectors.

What makes FP Journe so special?

When looking at the design cues from FP Journe it doesn’t take long to pick up on the hallmark features. The watches are classically designed but do not come across as vintage reproductions. I have always thought that they looked like a watch designer from the 1950s who was asked to design a complicated watch from the 2000s.

The use of sub-dials is there, in and of itself a very classical feature of a timepiece, yet the use of asymmetry and multiple sub-dials, helps give the watch that futuristic feel. When I try to put my finger on what makes an FP Journe such a unique timepiece it is the design. The watchmaking and complication are top-notch.

The finishing is right up there with any other ultra-luxury independent watchmaker. The design, however, is in a league of its own. There are few watches that have a design identity so strong that you can identify them from across the room, but if you are lucky enough to be in the same room as someone with an FP Journe, you’ll know from that first glance of their wrist.

What makes Patek Philippe so special?

If you are a watch enthusiast, at one time or another, Patek Philippe was the brand that was presented to you as the pinnacle of watchmaking. You may have expanded your knowledge and started to view other brands as worthy of that place, but there is no other brand in the watch world as deserving of the title as the most luxurious.

In my opinion, it is this brand cache that makes a Patek Philippe so special. When you walk into a room and notice someone with a Patek Phillipe on their wrist, you know that you probably walked into the right room. These watches are synonymous with people of power and influence and that is a quality that brands can’t pay for, not even Patek Philippe, it needs to be earned.

The X factor is always a hard category to award a point to. This is in many ways the most subjective of any of these categories. If I am honest with myself, however, I am going to have to give the point to FP Journe. Even though a Patek Philippe will carry with it such respect and heritage, it is the strict adherence to a design ethos with FP Journe that captures my attention.

Patek Philippe has a vast catalog and in many ways doesn’t always stand out as Patek Philippe watches. The same can not be said of FP Journe. Sure, there is some variance between models, but that design is always there.

Value

It’s almost laughable at this price range, but the final category that we need to compare between these two brands is value. With the current hype surrounding Patek Philippe and FP Journe we need to accept that when we look at the list price for these models we are looking at fake numbers. These watches are not available at their list prices and these price figures are less useful than a glass hammer.

Do Patek Philippe watches hold their value?

Patek Philippe watches are one of the safest bets in the watch industry. That wasn’t always the case, but due to the popularity of models such as the 5711 Nautilus selling for 400% of its list price, all of their models have seen a nice bump up in residuals.

Models that you may have been able to score a discount on in years past are now reselling for over-list price and have waitlists of their own. All boats certainly do rise and Patek Philippe may be the best example of this in the watch industry over the last 5 years.

Do FP Journe watches hold their value?

FP Journe watches are considerably less common than what you find with Patek Philippe. Add to this their incredibly loyal and passionate collector base and FP Journe watches are very safe investments as well. While they may only trade today for up to 200% of their list price, due to the lower production, I expect these watches to have a higher ceiling.

I can only imagine what will happen to the value of these watches when FP Journe is no longer here to produce them himself. I am sure we will all see that 200% markup as the deal of a lifetime in the decades to come. These brands both benefit from some of the strongest growth potentials in the watch industry. There are 2 different ways to approach this point for value.

In terms of the value of the watch that you get for the list price, I feel that FP Journe is able to offer more value for what they are asking. When it comes to the overall value of the brand, on the other hand, nobody can compete with the Patek Philippe and specifically the 5711 Nautilus. As I mentioned earlier, however, the list price is irrelevant to these brands.

If there was a snowball’s chance in hell that you could get either of them at least this point may have gone a different direction, but I have to give this one to Patek Philippe. After a grueling battle of back-and-forth action between these two great brands we stand tied at two points apiece. I don’t believe in ties, so lucky for you, a guy full of opinions and without the potential to ever actually put my money where my mouth is will make the final decision on this one.

The stakes have literally never been lower as you are guaranteed an exceptional watch no matter which one you choose. Patek Philippe pulls ahead when we look at the brand cache, history, and overall value. FP Journe showed its strength in design, both with their overall lineup and their Chronometre Bleu in particular. This truly was a close battle, but if I have to choose its FP Journe.

I really appreciate both of these brands and the unique value propositions that each of them presents in this ultra-luxury category. If I was actually in the position to purchase a watch from one of these brands, I would probably get one from both. They are very different from each other and if I am spending that type of money on a watch, I am sure that the hypothetical version of myself can afford both and deserves it (He works hard for his money, don’t judge!).

The reason I went with FP Journe over Patek Philippe, however, is actually pretty simple. Despite awarding the point in value to Patek Philippe, there is a very real possibility that there will come a day when not even hypothetical me can afford an FP Journe. I am not sure that there is a ceiling for this brand. Patek Philippe on the other hand, while growing in value every year, should always be available, even if you need to reach deeper in your pocket every year to get it.