Author: Jacob Strong

It’s about this time of year for those of us in the Midwest of the United States that Winter seems to really drag. The sunless days and subzero temps will have you “California Dreamin” like the Mama’s and the Papa’s. What if you could escape the cold gray tundra for the golden coasts of California with a glance of your wrist?

The ever-controversial mix mash of Arabic and Roman numerals may not be enough to physically transport you to a warmer climate. But its unique dial layout may be able to break up the monotony of Winter just the same.

History of California Dials

The history of the California dial is a lot more interesting than what you expect when looking at the quirky Arabic and Roman numeral combo. The 1930s first introduced the dial design as we know it, commonly referred to as the “Error Proof” or “High Visibility” dial.

First utilized by Rolex, the dial layout would become synonymous with Italian tool watchmaker Panerai, a brand you will see throughout this article. What makes this history interesting is less about the actual origin of the dial and more about why we now refer to it as a “California” dial.

Fast forward from the 1930s to the 1980s, and the world of watch collecting began picking up steam. Collectors were drawn to the classic watches of the 1930s-1950s. What separates the 1980s from the current state of vintage watch collecting is our current obsession with originality.

Unpolished cases, patina, and refinished dials were not driving the market prices like they do today. The name of the game in the 1980s was having the most sought-after dial, whether it was original or not. One aspect that does carry through with vintage watch collecting today is the obsession with quirky details. One of these coveted details was that of the “Error Proof” dial.

Although many watch dial refinishers were renowned for their expertise in recreating these dials, Kirk Rich Dial Co became synonymous with the style. So synonymous, in fact, that the California dial nickname is based on the location of their facility in, you guessed it, California. You can think of them as the Bamford Watch Company of their day.

Should You Buy a California Dial?

Despite having a unique origin story and appearance, the California dial is not for everyone.  Although having a self-confessed soft spot for vintage recreations, I recently warmed up to the uniqueness of the California dial. Should you buy a watch with a California dial? That’s going to be completely up to you! 

There are some great options, 10 of which we will look at in this article, but if you instinctually give these watches a confused look, you’re not alone. If you are not repulsed by the dial, you need to give one of these watches a try! They’re different and unintentionally fun in a no-nonsense kind of way. Let’s take a look at 10 of the best watches with California dials.

The Best Watches With California Dials

1. Rolex Viceroy Radium (ref. 3116)

There is no better place to begin than with Rolex. The luxury Swiss brand is credited with trademarking the “Error Proof”, later nicknamed “California’ dial in 1941. The first known references from the brand to feature the unique dial layout were released during World War II. One of the most revered models is that of the Viceroy Radium, ref. 3116.

These models come in a very modest 31mm case in various metals. The case features the elongated shape of the later released “bubble back’ automatic models, despite being powered by a manually winding movement. This model was available in several dial configurations, the rarest of which being the error-proof. 

Due to the rarity of original error-proof dials, this style of Rolex was commonly the victim of the previously mentioned redial from the likes of Kirk Rich Dial Co or other prominent refinishers of the time. Due to the rarity of the model, pricing this model can be difficult. My advice, if you see one, and can afford it, just get it!

2. Panerai Radiomir 1936 (ref. PAM00249)

Despite not owning the California dial patent, Panerai is synonymous with its current utilization. This list will be admittedly Panerai heavy, but given the brand’s history and current lineup, there was no other way around this. If you like the look of vintage military-inspired watches with a clean aesthetic and modern sizing, Panerai is the brand for you.

Leading the charge from Panerai will be the Radiomir 1936, ref. PAM00249. The Radiomir style features distinct wire lugs, sporting a very Panerai 47mm stainless steel case and manually-winding movement. The dial features a clean black dial and California dial and handset in an aged radium color. This 1936-piece limited edition was originally released in 2006. 

Despite the 1936 namesake on this watch, there is some debate whether this watch originally featured a California-style dial at this time due to the Rolex Patent for the design not occurring until 1941. Regardless of the controversy, this may be the cleanest execution of this dial layout and well worth the roughly $9000-$10000 price they can be purchased for.

3. Tudor Prince Date-Day California Dial (ref. 76200)

Rolex is not the only Hans Wilsdorf founded company to produce a California dial throughout the years. Tudor has been producing similarly designed watches at more affordable prices to their older brother since their original release in 1946 (20 years after Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark back in 1926).

Although many of their designs are heavily inspired by the folks at Rolex, they usually have some slight variances to keep things interesting. This is definitely the case with one of their most popular utilizations of the California dial.

The Tudor Prince Date-Day California dial, ref. 76200, is reminiscent of a few different Rolex models. The functionality and name are heavily inspired by the Rolex Day-Date. The Dial pulls from the Viceroy model we mentioned earlier while having a cleaner and sportier appearance with the Mercedes handset.

This watch is powered by an off-the-shelf ETA 2834-2 movement in true Tudor spirit. If you are looking for a watch that embodies the true purpose of Tudor, as seen by Hans Wilsdorf, the Tudor Prince Date Day with California dial for roughly $3000-$5000 is a great option to consider.

4. Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days 47mm (ref. PAM00448)

Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: a 47mm stainless steel case Panerai Radiomir with a manual winding movement and a clean California dial on a black dial. Without a doubt, Panerai is not a brand known for producing wild designs aimed at wowing us year after year.

If you think Rolex is boring and moves at a glacial speed, you haven’t seen anything yet. Like all great collector items, the devil is in the details, and this next model from Panerai is no different.

The Panerai Radiomir California 3-day, ref. PAM00448, is cosmetically very similar to the other Panerai watches on this list. However, what separates this watch from the pack is on the inside. The P.3000 movement by Panerai features a 3-day power reserve to add functionality to the simple design.

The movement is beautifully finished to match the aesthetic to the functionality that the added power reserve provides. If you are looking for the timeless Panerai design with a beautiful and functional movement to match, the PAM00448 from Panerai for $7500-$8500 is a great watch to consider.

5. Nomos Glashütte Club Campus

If you love the idea of a California dial but can’t quite get behind the idea of a vintage-inspired timepiece, Nomos Glashütte has your back. Nomos is a relatively new brand, dating back to 1990, but they have made a tremendous impact since their introduction.

Known best for their modern take on the Bauhaus design, Nomos has taken the California dial and modernized it in a way only Nomos can do. The Nomos Club Campus is the entry point into the brand. They have several color iterations, case sizes, and material options to allow you to really pick the watch that fits your needs and personal style.

My favorite feature of this watch is its unique take on a California dial by switching the orientation of Arabic and Roman numerals from the traditional options available. It is choices like this that give Nomos their fun identity and help differentiate them from other brands available today. Starting at $1500, the Nomos Club Campus is some of the most fun you can have in this hobby, whether you want a California dial or not.

6. Panerai Radiomir California 47mm (ref. PAM00931)

As mentioned earlier, Panerai is going to be featured a few times on this list. If you like what Panerai did with the PAM00448 but wish they leaned even heavier into the vintage aesthetic, this watch might be exactly what you were looking for. The Panerai Radiomir California, ref. PAM00931, shares many similarities with the previously mentioned PAM00448.

The 47mm stainless steel case, wire lugs, and P.3000 Hand winding movement with a 3-day power reserve are consistent between these two models. Even the simple, clean layout and California dial remain virtually identical between the two models. The difference here is in the color of the dial and the feeling it evokes. 

While the PAM00448 features a traditional black dial, the PAM00931 sports a honey-colored fume dial that gives the appearance of a dial that has been exposed to the elements for decades.

The watches are very similar, but the feeling they evoke is completely different. If you are looking to spend roughly $6000-$7000 on a California dial watch and want something that leans heavily into vintage inspiration, this watch might be for you.

7. RPaige “Barrage”

There is no shortage of Micro or Independent brands on the market today for watch enthusiasts. Several of these brands were conceived by savvy entrepreneurs eager to capitalize on the growing market. Some of these brands were started by passionate enthusiasts.

However, few of these brands were created by as passionate enthusiasts as Richard Paige. Richard Paige is a 4^th generation watchmaker and founder of Timezone.com. Yes, the watch forum that changed the way enthusiasts engage with one another. 

The RPaige Barrage is a limited edition of 50 watches featuring a 44mm stainless steel case and Panerai-inspired black dial with aged radium California dial. What separates these watches from others in the market is their use of repurposed pocket watch movements housed with new cases and dials. This model features either a 15 or 17-jewel Waltham or Elgin American pocket watch movement.

For anyone lucky enough to have seen one of these movements in person, the amount of finishing and detail on these antique rivals that of almost any current Swiss movement in production today. Coming in at a price of $2400, the RPaige Barrage is a timeless design with a unique value proposition that you simply can’t get from the big boys in this space.

8. Panerai Luminor California 8 Days (ref. PAM00779)

I know, another Panerai! Hear me out; this one is completely different! As much as I love the vintage appeal of the Panerai Radiomir, this next model utilizes the more modern Luminor case and is my favorite of the bunch. The Panerai Luminor California 8-day, ref. PAM00779 features a hefty 44mm case size made of DLC-coated titanium to help with the everyday wearability of this piece.

The Luminor case shape is more closely associated with Panerai and helps to give the watch a robust and masculine look. This watch features the enhanced P.5000 hand-wound mechanical movement providing an impressive 8-day power reserve.

The classic black dial and aged radium California dial and handset provide a familiar vintage aesthetic to help offset the modernity of the case. If you are looking for a modern interpretation of a California dial from the brand most synonymous with the look, the PAM00779 Luminor for roughly $8500 is a great option to consider.

9. Ralf Tech Academie California Bronze

The worlds of professional diving and watchmaking are often intertwined. You’d be hard-pressed to find a watch enthusiast who doesn’t appreciate the functionality of a good dive watch, regardless of whether or not they would ever use it to its full potential. Ralf Tech is a great example of this intertwining. 

Originally founded in 1996, producing diving equipment for professionals, Ralf Tech began to focus much of its attention on watchmaking in 2003, ultimately leading to this being their sole product line in 2008. Since then, Ralf Tech has been bringing some of the most robust watches available, even venturing beyond the comforts of dive watches.

The Ralf Tech Acadamie is a 41mm case manufactured out of bronze. This unique case material will age over time and give your timepiece a unique appearance mere months after removing the stickers. This look is not for everyone, but given the vintage aesthetic of the California dial and gilt lettering with aged radium-colored lume, this watch will look more at home once the shine dulls a little bit. 

The Academie range is powered by an automatic mechanical movement and comes paired with a vintage-styled leather strap. If you are looking for a new California dial watch that will age with you, the Ralf Tech Academie California in bronze for roughly $2400 is a watch you should strongly consider.

10. Serica 4512 California

Serica is a Microbrand that has taken the watch world by storm. Since its inception in 2019, Serica watches have been recognized for their incredible quality, unique designs, and affordable pricing. In many ways, these three features are the blueprint that any Microbrand should follow if they are aiming to be successful. Even with all 3 of these qualities, very few brands will skyrocket as quickly as Serica.

The Serica 4512 with a California dial features a very wearable 38mm stainless steel case with a straight-end link Bonklip bracelet. The lacquered black dial and California dial bypass the commonly used aged luminova for a crisp white giving the appearance of a watch from the 1950s that found a way to evade aging for the last 70 years. 

The broad arrow hand is reminiscent of those found on early Omega Speedmasters while maintaining their own identity. The watch is powered by the STP1-11 Swiss automatic movement, and it’s priced at a very reasonable $615. If you are looking for a quality Microbrand offering a unique design for a fraction of the price of others on this list, the Serica 4512 California is the route I would go.

Conclusion

There you have it, 10 of the best watches to feature a California dial. The California dial will not appeal to everyone, and that’s OK. Our brains spend a tremendous amount of energy trying to put things into defined categories. Safe or dangerous, boy or girl, Arabic or Roman numerals.

These categories can serve us well at times while simultaneously limiting our ability to see in between the lines. If Arabic and Roman numerals can coexist on a watch dial, perhaps there is a world where other categories don’t have to be as set as we previously believed. 

There was a time when even the biggest fan of California dials had to do a double-take. Something that falls outside our defined categories can be hard to accept at first, but once you look at it for what it is, the uniqueness is the appeal. After all, a watch dial is just a dial; it doesn’t have to look like all the others to tell the time.

Happy Watch Hunting!

There are many different attributes that hook people into our niche hobby of watch collecting. Some people are attracted to the design, others hold onto the status, while some are enamored by the history and stories these little machines can tell.

I find myself leaning most heavily into the history and stories aspect. Early in my watch-collecting journey, I found myself fascinated by the nicks and scratches of every pre-owned piece I acquired. Like so many in this hobby, my limited budget and historical fascination quickly led me into the rabbit hole, or better yet, minefield, of vintage watches.

What To Look Out For When Shopping For Vintage Watches

The world of vintage watch collecting is not for the faint of heart. There are more horror stories than there are success stories at this point. Despite this inherent risk, the rewards can be almost unmatched.

Before we dive right into vintage watch collecting, let’s look at a few simple guidelines I’ve unfortunately had to learn the hard way. There is no way to be 100% protected, but these guidelines will help keep you out of trouble for the most part.

Do Your Research

First, research is everything. I know it’s fun to look through hundreds of ads on our favorite internet auction site (especially after a couple of drinks), but this is not where you’re journey with vintage watches should begin. You need to start with a brand, a model, and a year range. From there, dive into the nuances of the model and what characteristics are period correct.

Depending on how widespread the model is, this research can take quite a long time. If you look at this research as just a barrier you must overcome before pulling the trigger on whatever “deal” you found online, you will probably get burned. The research IS the journey of vintage watch collecting; purchasing one is just the trophy.

Cheap Does Not Equal Good

The next guideline for me is to not be so damn cheap! Like many of you, I am inherently cheap and will spend months searching for the most reasonable prices. However, vintage watches are different. 99 out of 100 times, the lowest price is not the “best” price. There are so many factors that can impact the price of a vintage watch, and without fully understanding why a price is low, you are more likely than not going to regret this “great deal”.

Condition Is Key

Often closely tied to price, condition and originality are the most important things to look for in a vintage watch. Do not settle on a watch with a damaged dial! Do not purchase the watch replaced hands! Do not save a few dollars for the timepiece with an over-polished case!

These watches will usually save you money, but they are not worth the time and energy you put into the research. You should always buy the most pristine watch that fits your budget. If your budget only allows you to scrape the bottom of the barrel, you need to increase your budget or pick a new watch!

Buy The Seller, Not The Watch

The final guideline is to trust the seller of the timepiece. We hear about buying the seller, not the watch, over and over in this hobby. The importance of this message cannot be overlooked when looking at vintage timepieces. There are plenty of vintage watch sellers that have great reputations with whom you should stick.

Once you get very familiar with a particular model and have handled more than a handful, you might be ready to venture into the world of searching for “farm-fresh” examples. They are out there, but remember, even the most experienced experts get fooled from time to time. If you’re unwilling to do the research necessary to become an expert, you need to pay the extra money for someone that is.

The Present-Day Vintage Watch Market

For watch collectors just joining the hobby, vintage watches are less attainable than they previously were. Rolex and Omega are priced near the MSRP of current models, if not more, and other Swiss brands are close behind. It is no wonder, when looking at how to maximize your horological dollar in the world of vintage watches, many people turn to Japan. Few brands can match the history and number of iconic model lines as enthusiast favorite Seiko.

What About Seiko Vintage Watches?

Seiko is, and always has been, a brand for the people. They produce high quantities of well-built timepieces, focusing on practicality and functionality. Thankfully, for us aspiring vintage collectors, the philosophy of increased production and quality has been the brand’s mainstay, yielding two incredible benefits.

First, there is no shortage of vintage Seiko watches. With the exception of a few rare pieces, there are several examples of most vintage Seiko watches, many of which look and run great to this day. The second benefit is more a consequence of the first. Because of the large number of watches available, prices are very reasonable for what you get. There is no other brand that can provide the variety, quality, availability, and price of vintage watches that Seiko can.

There are beautiful vintage Seiko watches available at any price, and we will look at 20 great examples. These will be listed in ascending order, and because there is no MSRP for vintage watches, I will provide a range of prices that reflects the market as of December 2022. The vintage watch market changes rapidly, but if you are patient and follow the general guidelines, you can get a great Seiko watch that is sure to satisfy your vintage craving.

Vintage Seiko Watches Under $200

Seiko 5 7009 Series ($50-$150)

There is no better place to start this list than the almighty Seiko 5. Known for 5 design principles: 4 O’clock crown, Diashock shock protection, Day/Date complication, automatic winding, and water resistance. If these were called Seiko 6, the sixth principle would certainly be affordability! To this day, the Seiko 5 represents a great entry point into the brand’s mechanical timepieces.

The 7009 series features modest case sizes and a multitude of dial options. This watch series has almost limitless combinations and can be found for between $50-$150. There are too many options to research thoroughly, but you could pick up a few, given the price.

Seiko 5 ACTUS 7019 Series($100-$300)

Like many of the budget-friendly options on our list, our next option falls under the umbrella of the Seiko 5. The 7019 Seiko 5 ACTUS is a more stylized version of the standard Seiko 5. The more modernized case sizes result in a slightly higher value on the secondary market of roughly $100-$300. These watches will be another no-frills option, but if you are interested in a slightly more modern design, the 5 Actus might be for you.

Seiko Sportsmatic 7625 Series ($150-$400)

The 7625 Sportsmatic is a step up when compared to the Seiko 5 models I have previously mentioned. The sports aesthetic lends itself nicely to a go-anywhere-do-anything watch, and the increased case size of 38mm will be a welcomed addition to anyone looking for a more modernly sized vintage watch.

These watches do fetch a slight premium for certain dials, but a basic model can be found for $150-$400. If you have a preference for a larger watch or a sportier aesthetic, the Sportsmatic is the perfect budget-friendly option.

Vintage Seiko Watches Under $500

Seiko Seikomatic 6206 Series ($150-$400)

The Seikomatic is another mid-range offering in the Seiko vintage market, offering a robust 6206 movement and 36mm case. What really helps this model line stick out is the unique day placement at 6 O’clock. It helps give this ordinary watch some personality.

Combine that with the fact that this watch features a Kanji-day disk, and this watch provides an entirely different feel from a comparable Tissot or Hamilton from the time. This case shape also features a seamless crown design, in which the crown pushes flush into the case. Coming in at roughly $150-$400, the style isn’t the only thing giving the Swiss a run for their money!

Seiko Diver 7002 Series ($250-$400)

The 7002 series diver is the predecessor to the famous SKX. The signature 42mm case shape is there with a slightly reduced 150 meters of water resistance which I wouldn’t recommend putting to the test, given its age.

This watch is often the victim of the mod community due to its lower price point, which has resulted in original examples increasing in price. A good condition and original 7002 diver will set you back roughly $250-$400, but for a vintage dive watch with real history, there are few examples, even at double or triple this price.

Seiko Bell-matic 4006 Series ($300-$500)

One often overlooked complication in the world of vintage watches is that of the alarm. Though some Swiss examples can set you back thousands, the Seiko Bell-matic will run you about $300-$500. This model comes in various dial colors and case shapes, but the 27 jewel 4006 movement is the true star. If you’re looking for a unique complication that you’re not going to find on many wrists, the Seiko Bell-matic is a great option.

Seiko Lord Marvel 5740 Series ($300-$500)

If you are searching for a classically designed dress watch from Seiko that shares many design elements with the Swiss, look no further than the Lord Marvel. This watch features many quality movements seen in King Seiko models, but they are housed in a simpler case style.

These watches also feature 36000 BPH Hi-Beat movements allowing the Lord Marvel to not only look like a Swiss timepiece of the era but also outperform it mechanically. The Lord Marvel can be had for roughly $300-$500. If you are looking for something a little simpler but with some mechanical innovation, the Lord Marvel is a great place to start.

King Seiko 5625 Series ($400-600)

Grand Seiko is often attributed with much of the credit for establishing the Japanese, and Seiko, in particular, as a horological powerhouse. The lesser-known faction of Seiko, known as King Seiko, was pumping out equally-stunning watches and helping to motivate Grand Seiko to achieve the great results they were able to.

King Seiko watches are less highly sought after than Grand Seiko by the mainstream collector, but that is quickly changing. Despite this rise in popularity, these watches can still be found for roughly $400-$600. The 5625 King Seiko features a Hi-Beat movement, much like the Lord Marvel, but housed in a more distinct Seiko case shape. If you want a Grand Seiko, but your budget simply won’t allow it, these King Seikos really are the next best thing.

Vintage Seiko Watches Under $1000

Seiko Yachtsman UFO Chronograph 6138-0011 Series ($700-$1100)

The UFO Chronograph features a noticeably different vintage design. This watch comes with a distinct saucer shape case at 44mm, which spawned its affectionate nickname as the UFO. The 6138 Chronograph movement is often overlooked in the history of automatic chronographs.

Coming in at a price of roughly $700-$1100, depending on condition, this is a great entry point into the world of vintage chronographs. If you are looking for a complicated vintage watch that will stand out from the rest, only a few options will do so better than the UFO.

Seiko Rally Diver 6106 Series (700-$1100)

There are few styles of watches that are as distinctly Seiko as a Rally Diver. The checkered bezel, even making a comeback with the current Rowing Blazers Limited Edition, is a trademark of Vintage Seiko.

Many of these examples fall underneath the budget-friendly Seiko 5 line, but given the uniqueness of this timepiece, there is an aesthetic premium added to this one. Coming in at roughly $700-$1100, the Rally Diver from Seiko gives you an opportunity to wear something a little different on your wrist at a price that allows it to still be fun!

King Seiko 44KS 4402-8000 Series ($700-$1200)

As discussed earlier, few vintage watches can punch above their weight quite like a King Seiko. The 44KS is my favorite example of what this great sub-brand was able to create. The 36mm stainless steel case and manual wind movement allow this watch to maintain modern proportions for a classic vintage aesthetic.

The resurgence of the King Seiko brand has sparked these watches to increase in price. Coming in at roughly $700-$1200, the value you get from these watches is still second to none. If you are looking for the best value for a vintage watch, not just from Seiko, this is one of the best picks available.

Seiko SilverWave J12082 Series ($800-$1200)

The Seiko SilverWave is not like any other dive watch you will find from Seiko. This watch predated the more recognized models, debuting in 1961, and had a unique way of accounting for elapsed time on a dive. The inner rotating bezel, which was controlled by a single crown, gave this watch a very distinct look for the time and for vintage collectors today. Single crown inner rotating bezel watches were rare in the 1960s and remain rare today.

This unique look allows the SilverWave to go unrecognized as the dive watch pioneer that it clearly is. Coming in at roughly $800-$1200, this watch is an excellent piece of dive watch history at a price the average enthusiast can afford.

Vintage Seiko Watches Under $3000

Seiko Bullhead Chronograph 6138-0060 Series ($1200-$2000)

Seiko is at it again, with another very distinct chronograph within their 6138 series. The Bullhead chronograph, with its signature crown and pusher layout, is another oddball choice with a cult following of collectors. The aesthetic screams of the 1970s with its brown color scheme and unique case shape.

Coming in at roughly $1200-$2000, these watches have a slight premium over their UFO-shaped cousins. If you are a collector of oddities within the watch world or simply appreciate the design ethos of the 70s, the Bullhead Chronograph is a great option.

Seiko Pogue Chronograph 6139-6002 Series ($2000-$2500)

Of all of the Seiko chronographs from this era, none have garnered as much mainstream popularity as the Pogue. The 6139 model with gold dial and Pepsi bezel famously accompanied Colonel William Pogue on the Skylab 4 Mission in 1973, despite never being authorized by NASA. This is exactly how legends are formed, and this watch is no exception. Unfortunately, this is perhaps the most Frankenwatched vintage Seiko model, and prices vary greatly because of it.

A simple aftermarket dial can be the difference between a $400 watch and a $2400 watch. For a clean example, you should expect to pay between $2000-$2500. Any less than that, and red flags should come up! This watch has skyrocketed in popularity as of late, but if you are looking for a watch with the potential to still increase in value, this may be the best option on the list.

Seiko Baby Panda 6138-8000 Series ($2500-$3000)

The Seiko 6138 “Baby Panda” is the vintage Seiko chronograph for someone who would rather not be so daring with their wrist choice. The Pogue, Bullhead, and UFO are all great, but if you want something a little less bold, the Baby Panda is the watch to go with.

It features a white dial with distinct Panda sub-dials stacked vertically instead of horizontally. The case shape, while still having the wider case flanks Seiko is known for, has visible lugs and feels much more traditional in its design.

Despite being the most “boring” of the Seiko Chronographs listed, this one carries the highest premium, coming in at roughly $2500-$3000. If you are after a vintage Seiko chronograph that can go under the radar, this is the best option for you.

Vintage Seiko Watches Under $5000

Seiko Captain Willard 6105-8110 Series ($3000-$4000)

Now we’re getting to the truly iconic and historically significant vintage Seiko watches. Made famous by Martin Sheen in the movie Apocalypse Now, the 6105-8110 is a classic Seiko dive watch that has a cult following among collectors. Affectionately known as the Captain Willard among enthusiasts, this model has been reintroduced several times in the modern Seiko lineup.

There are several design cues across Seiko’s current lineup that are heavily inspired by the design of 6105, which was first introduced in 1968. Coming in at a price of $3000-$4000, depending on the condition, this watch is still a relative bargain. If you are looking for the dive watch that helped make Seiko what it is, this watch will be hard to beat.

Grand Seiko J14070 Series ($4000-$5000)

On this list, we have sung the praises of King Seiko, the lesser-known subset of Seiko, that famously competed with Grand Seiko for watchmaking supremacy out of Japan. It is now time to talk about Grand Seiko. Although a separate brand as of 2017, Grand Seiko and its vintage collection still fall within the umbrella of Seiko overall.

The J14070 is the watch that launched Grand Seiko into the stratosphere, proving once and for all that Japan can not only compete with the Swiss for timekeeping accuracy but lead the charge. This watch will set you back roughly $4000-$5000 depending on the condition and year of manufacture. If you are looking for a classically designed watch with a unique history, the J14070 is the watch for you.

Seiko 62MAS 6217-8000 Series ($4000-$5000)

The 62MAS by Seiko is one of the most universally loved designs the brand has ever introduced. Being the first professional dive watch made by Seiko has helped this watch reach iconic status amongst collectors. Much like the Captain Willard, there have been several re-editions of this model, many of which have their own cult following. The signature 37mm size and skin diver case shape make this watch incredibly wearable on a wide range of wrists.

This watch will set you back roughly $4000-$5000, but given the rise in popularity of vintage dive watches (even those not named Rolex), this watch has plenty of potential to increase in value over the next few years. If you are looking for an iconic dive watch that has the potential to make you wish you purchased it when you had the chance, the 62MAS is an excellent option.

Vintage Seiko Watches Under $10000

Seiko Grandfather Tuna 6159-7010 Series ($5000-$6500)

In this final tier of vintage watches, we will explore the most professional watches Seiko produced throughout the 1970s. The 6159-7010, known as the Grandfather Tuna, features a titanium case with an iconic shroud around it. This watch was rated to reach depths of 600 meters. In terms of Seiko’s current lineup of professional dive watches, the Grandfather Tuna is the ancestor that started it all.

They later ditched the automatic movement for a more reliable high-accuracy quartz one, but the technology, case shape, and overall design can all be traced to this model. Coming in at roughly $5000-$6500, this is another model that has the potential to increase in value over the next few years. If you are looking for a vintage professional dive watch that helped shape Seiko’s current lineup, the Grandfather Tuna is the watch for you.

Seiko Hi-Beat Diver 6159-7000 Series ($6000-$8000)

Much like the Grandfather Tuna, the Seiko Hi-Beat Diver is part of the 6159 series of watches and has helped to shape the modern lineup of Seiko professional divers. If you prefer the look of the Marine Master over the Tuna, you have the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver to thank. Many of the design elements we see on Seiko’s current lineup are present here with this model and executed at a very high level.

The sharp edges and compact case design help this larger-sized watch fit even smaller wrist sizes. When looking throughout Seiko’s vintage dive watch catalog, this watch stands out as a premium offering. At roughly $6000-$8000, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver carries a premium fit and finish to match the premium price. If you are looking for the most luxurious vintage watch Seiko offers, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver is the watch you should go with.

The “Glory Days” Of Vintage Seiko Watch Collecting

There you have it! 20 of the best vintage Seiko watches at a variety of budgets. Over the last few years, vintage watches have become harder and harder to collect. Not just because of the increased risk but because the increase in value has made learning your lessons the hard way that much more painful.

In terms of prices going up, like always, Seiko has your back with this one. The Swiss vintage watch market has exploded in value over the last 5 years, while the Japanese market has been increasing more sustainably. This has resulted in many of the Seiko models listed here being undervalued compared to their equivalent Swiss counterparts. In other words, we are currently living in the “glory days” we are all going to look back on so fondly 10 years from now.

The vintage watch market is tricky, but if you are patient and do your research, there are still plenty of deals to be had! After researching this list, there are at least 2-3 watches that will one day make it into my collection. If I stick to these classic models and the guidelines listed above (even I have a hard time not clicking “Buy It Now” on everything after a few drinks), I should be able to end up with some gems for my collection.

Happy watch hunting!

There are few watch styles that mirror history as directly as the Pilot watch. Whether it was the first watch designed by Cartier in 1906 to accompany Alberto Santos-Dumont on his exploratory flight or the large monstrosities accompanying pilots on both sides of World War 2, the pilot watch was there playing a pivotal role.

It is this history and sense of adventure that help to make the pilot watch a favorite among collectors. Despite their popularity however, there is some debate as to what a pilot watch actually is.
Here’s a little-known secret that many watch collectors don’t know, you can technically wear any wristwatch that you want while piloting an aircraft.

There is no governing body making sure that your case is a certain size or your numerals are properly pronounced. Despite this fact, us enthusiasts have to place watches into categories. The more the marrier too! The more categories we create, the more boxes we have to check and I am certainly not complaining about that (My wife on the other hand might see things a little differently)!

How exactly do we define the category of a pilot watch. It turns out, there are quite a few criteria that we can look at to help us determine if a wristwatch is truly “Cock-Pit officially Certified” (trademark pending, come at me Rolex!). First criteria that most people look for in a pilot watch is legibility.

A watch needs to be able to be read quickly from a distance, while also actually operating an aircraft. Does this mean that a watch needs to be large and in charge? Despite that being the predominant theme from these watches, it is not a requirement.

Other than being legible there are some other features that help to distinguish a pilot watch from other categories. The ability to read multiple time zones is undoubtedly a feature that would prove to be beneficial for a pilot. Whether through use of a dual time or a more traditional GMT function, this feature helps to give a pilot watch its wings (see what I did there).

Another common feature seen among pilot watches is a chronograph watch. These functions are often dolled up with slide rule bezels and more sub dials than you can shake a stick at, but the chronograph itself could add several functions for a pilot, especially before the modern enhancements in aviation technology.

Know that we know what an actual pilot watch is, why don’t we take a look at some good ones. For this article we will be looking at a very fun part of the market, the entry level luxury segment from $1000-$2000. In many ways, I live in this segment, only breaking the surface when I decide that food, clothing, and shelter are only secondary necessities in my pursuit for Facebook likes and watch street cred! When you look at the value that $1000 to $2000 can offer our hard-earned horological dollars, it’s easy to see why many people, not just me, call this space home.

To make things even more fun, I will continue the streak of torturing myself and only selecting one watch per brand in the hopes that this will help shed some light on some of the pieces that are used to going under the radar. Let’s take a look at 15 of the best pilot watches under $2000!

Historical Examples

Laco Pilot Watch Original Replika 45

If we are exploring entry level pilot watches, it makes sense to start with Laco. Despite their rather unsavory history, their Flieger style watches are the watch that comes to mind when many watch enthusiasts envision a pilot watch.

The Laco Pilot Watch Original Replika 45 is an almost exact recreation of those models from the 1940’s. There have been enhancements made to the movement, in the form of the ETA 2804 and the crystal in the form of a scratch resistant sapphire. Without a doubt the greatest concession made with this watch is in the actual case size. Laco made the decision to scale this watch down to a “modest” 45mm.

This is still a very large timepiece on the wrist, but compared to the 55mm the watch was originally released in, this one can at least fit some of the general population and not just prime Hulk Hogan and his 24” pythons. If you are after the historically accurate aesthetic of a fleiger watch and can put your blinders up to their origin, Laco provides as good of an example as you can find at any price. Lucky for us, this one sneaks just below our $2000 budget.

Stowa Fleiger Classic 36

Let’s stay on track with examples of fleiger watches with World War 2 history. Stowa is another brand, very similar to Laco, that creates some beautiful examples of flierger style pilot watches. They both feature the timeless dial design, but where the Laco we looked at was very accurate to the original, the Stowa Flieger Classic 36 really mixes things up. How exactly do they do this? They gave us a 36mm fleiger watch!

That’s right, Stowa gave us, the itty bitty wristee committee, a pilot watch! This watch also features a Sellita SW200-1 and a sapphire crystal. These great features don’t just come in a diminutive case, as the price for what you’re getting is equally compact at just over $1300. If 45mm time only watches just aren’t your jam, you can still get the timeless fleiger style in a watch that will have an easier time slipping under any cuff.

Glycine Airman Contemporary Men Ref. GL0141

In the world of aviation, there are few watch brands that can claim as much accolades as that of Glycine. Despite their recent buyout from the Invicta Group, this brand has a history that few brands can match. The Glycine Airman Contemporary is modern interpretation of their classic Airman series.

The case has been beefed up from the original 36mm to a more modern 42mm. The lack of a functional GMT hand, will limit you to two time zones with this example, but is historically accurate to their earliest examples. This watch is powered by a Swiss GL293 Swiss Automatic movement and features a bi-directional rotating bezel.

The example listed here is the cream colored dial variant, which plays up the vintage aesthetic nicely. As anyone who has ever watched an infomercial knows, pricing for watches from the Invicta family can be hard to pin-point, but the MSRP on this watch falls just shy of our $2000 budget, while I am sure if you stay up late enough you could score a significantly better price broken into 5 simple payments.

SWATCH Group Powerhouses

Tissot Heritage Navigator Automatic 160^th Anniversary COSC

Any list focused on the entry level luxury segment would be hard pressed to look past the SWATCH group. With so many brands competing for this same position within the group there is no shortage of great examples. The first we will look at comes from Tissot.

The Heritage Navigator Automatic 160^th Anniversary COSC is a historically accurate timepiece with a design that will make you stop and do a double take. Their unique display of popular locations around the world are a fun way to help track the time for your favorite destination, or just somewhere with the same time zone.

The 43mm case, COSC Certified ETA 2893-3, and sapphire crystal all feel familiar, but the execution helps this watch stand out from other watches with similar capabilities. With this watch being a limited-edition it may be one of the harder watches to locate, but at just under the $2000 budget, you’re hard work will be rewarded.

Hamilton Aviation X Wind Auto Chronograph

If you’re a fan of the classic Breitling Navitimer, but can’t stomach the idea of dropping the $6-$8k necessary to make one yours, Hamilton may have a solution for you. This solution comes in the form of their Aviation X Wind Auto Chronograph.

The watch features an automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Built H-21 movement with an extended 60-hour power reserve and even features a bezel with a drift angle calculator (just don’t ask me how to use it). I am sure there are more effective ways to calculate this while actually flying, but damn if that won’t be fun to show off to anyone unlucky enough to strike up a conversation with you.

The watch is an absolute monster at 44mm with crowns on both sides, but given the complications provided, the size is justified. At the roughly $1600 price mark that this watch occupies you are lucky to find a Swiss chronograph at all, let alone one with this many features and bezel party tricks.

Under the Radar Modern Tool Watches

Fortis Flieger F-41 Automatic on Aviator Strap

With this great example from Fortis, we are again carrying on with the flieger trend, but getting a very different example of the aesthetic. Where Laco and Stowa, both present options steeped in historical design, the Fortis Flieger F-41 came to the party decked out in all the latest fashions.

The hallmarks of a flieger are there, but there is a modern look that helps to separate this watch from the pack. This watch didn’t just show up to the party dressed to impress, he also has a fun party trick to show off, and that is the bi-directional rotating 12-hour bezel, allowing you to measure another time zone. The watch comes in a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by UW-30 based on the Sellita SW-200.

The addition of an impressive 200m of water resistance, help make this pilot watch capable of almost any task you throw at it, whether you are in the air or the sea. The Fleiger F-41 by Fortis is going to burn through almost all of you $2k budget, but with versatility like this, it might be the only watch that you’ll ever need.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic AL-525NN4S4

When reviewing Swiss entry level luxury brands, there are few brands that get left out of the conversation as much as Alpina. Another history dating back to the late 1800’s with as much hype for their brand over the last nearly 140 years as Rolex receives in a day, I just don’t get it.

They may just get lost in the shuffle of the Swiss entry level luxury segment, but they have the ability to produce some really eye-catching pieces. The Startimer Pilot Automatic is a great example of this ability. It has a typical pilot watch case shape at 44mm, comes powered by a AL-525 automatic movement and is protected by a sapphire crystal.

Although sounding rather typical for this list, what helps to give this watch some personality is their use of a rose gold case. Sure at roughly $1500, the case is not solid gold, but the watch still has a very commanding presence. If your heart is set on a IWC Big Pilot, but your bank account isn’t having having it, this Alpina might be exactly what you need.

Muhle Glashutte Terrasport II M1-37-47-MB

There are very few brands with histories that date back to the 1800’s, that manage to sneak up on us watch enthusiasts. Muhle Glashutte may be the best example of this occurring over the last several years. Despite seeming to pop out of nowhere, they have a unique aesthetic and history dating back to 1868.

The Terrasport II M1-37-47 is a fleiger watch through and through, sharing much of its identity with the history laden examples from Stowa and Laco. What helps to separate this watch for me is their use of a cream dial. It’s a feature you don’t often find on flieger style watches and their execution of this dial is absolutely flawless.

Coming in with a 40mm stainless steel case, Sellita SW-200-1 movement, and sapphire crystal and you have an excellent everyday option that offers a different look to the original design. The 5-link stainless steel bracelet also helps in giving this watch more of an everyday feel, while the roughly $1800 price allows you the budget to squeeze in a nice leather strap to compliment the look.

The German Twins

Damasko DS30 Green

Much like Muhle Glashutte, Damasko is a watch brand that often slips under the radar. Most commonly compared to Sinn, a brand we will get to shortly, Damasko is a German watch brand that’s no nonsense tool watch designs have a cult following.

The entry level DS30 may miss out on some of the over engineered technology that goes into their higher end models, but the design is spot on. While this watch toes the line between field watch and pilot watch, I am going to use my creative control to label this exclusively as a pilot’s watch. It’s a perfect size at 39mm and the dial is as legible as a dial can be.

This watch comes paired with the ETA 2824 and sapphire crystal, but what really does it for me is the pop of color. You have your choice with this model, but the green is my favorite. This is a very fun design for a brand that doesn’t usually play in that space. If you’re looking for a fun everyday watch that won’t break the bank at around $1300, you’d be hard pressed to beat this model from Damasko, regardless of which category you get to check off your watch list.

Sinn 104 St Sa I W

If aviation inspired watches are your thing, Sinn is your brand. Like Damasko, Sinn watches are often over engineered and lean heavily into the tool side of the watch market. The Sinn 104 is one of their most popular models in their lineup despite not utilizing many of the technologies that have helped to separate them from other tool watch manufacturers.

When I was first introduced to this watch my novice brain fully recognized this design as a dive watch. And a damn good one at that! This watch is a little bit different though, the countdown bezel helps to differentiate this watch from your typical dive style bezel, while still maintaining a universally loved aesthetic.

The Sinn 104 features a 41mm case and is powered by a modified Sellita SW220-1 movement. What really makes this watch stand out to me is the crisp white dial. When paired with the precise syringe hands, this dial is almost perfection. At roughly $1500 almost perfection is not a phrase I get to throw around too often.

Independent Pilot Watches

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date 41mm

When researching value packed entry level luxury watches, it’s impossible to not come across the independently owned powerhouse known as Oris. In many ways, they are the SWATCH group brand watch that broke free, and because of that and their attention to the enthusiast market, they are universally loved.

One collection of theirs that is overshadowed a bit by their dive watch collections is that of the ProPilot. The Oris Big Crown ProPilot 41mm delivers a lot of what makes Oris such a favorite among enthusiasts. The timeless design, 41mm stainless steel case, and Sellita SW220-1 movement help to make this watch an excellent selection as an everyday watch.

It is the vivid blue sun burst dial and slanted knurling on the bezel that allow this watch to stand out from the competition. If a modern interpretation of a classic design is what you’re looking for, Oris will provide as much bang for buck as any watch brand at right around $1900.

Christopher Ward C65 Cranwell Series 2

Another brand synonymous with packing a lot of horological punch per dollar is that of Christopher Ward. Many of their designs are heavily inspired by classic examples, but there are not many brands that can execute at the level they do for the price they are asking. The C65 Cranwell Series 2 is a great example of this ethos.

They have been heavily inspired by many of the examples already on this list such as the Stowa and the Laco, but their execution appears to be a more modern take. The watch features a compact 38mm size, COSC certified SW200-1, and sapphire crystal. The large crown and cream colored luminova help to give this piece the appearance of a watch that has already stood the test of time.

Of all of the watches listed today, this is the first example of a watch that looks at home on the stainless steel bracelet as opposed to a leather strap, as pilot watches are often accompanied. Coming in at around $1300, you could afford to purchase several straps and really put that opinion to the test.

GMT Options

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT Z09403

One of the classic complications associated with aviation is that of the GMT. Although our budget would be absolutely decimated by the most famous example of this in the Rolex GMT, there are still several value packed options delivering this great feature. First of these brands is Zodiac, the fun small batch microbrand operating under free creative control but owned by the Fossil Group.

This financial stability afforded by Fossil allows Zodiac to take a lot of fun risks and create watches with enthusiasts in mind. One great example of this is their recreation of their historical Super Sea Wolf GMT line. The watch itself stays faithful to the original with a 40mm case, bi-directional rotating bezel and classic dive watch aesthetic.

The sapphire crystal, modern ETA 2893-2, and choice of colors help modernize this watch in a really fun way. Modern day Zodiac is all about fun color options and allowing the owner to find a watch as unique as their own personal style. Coming in at just under $1800 it is easy to see why these watches fly off the shelf whenever a new color way is released.

Yema Flygraf French Air & Space Force GMT Steel Limited Edition

Over the last few years the micro-brand watch scene has been flooded by “zombie” brands. These once defunct brands have found new ownership and a new lease on life while being able to leverage their heritage and historical archives.

The verdict is still out on how enthusiasts feel about this trend overall, but when done well, the finished products have impressed even them most cynical of collectors. Take for example, Yema, this victim of the quartz-crisis has stormed back and been able to leverage their relationship with the French Military to strengthen their legitimacy as a watchmaker. The Flygraf French Air & Space Force GMT is a great example of this leverage yielding excellent results.

The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, in-house Yema3000 GMT movement, and sapphire crystal. The details on this watch are heavily influenced by the French Air and Space Force collaboration, including the unique crown inlay. The watch carries with it a lot of the features we would expect to see on an entry level luxury watch, but the modest price of roughly $1200 reminds us that this watch is very much a micro-brand.

Monta Atlas GMT

There are few micro brands that have been able to cross into mainstream watchmaking quite like Monta. Their focus on quality and design have helped elevate them above their competition and their Atlas GMT is no exception to this.

The watch comes in at a great size of 38.5mm and features a modified Sellita 330 GMT movement. What really separates this watch however, is their attention to detail and overall finishing. When you feel this watch in your hand the just under $2000 price not only seems justified but feels like an absolute bargain. The beautiful blue dial and stainless steel bracelet with flawless on-the-fly micro-adjust help to take this watch to the next level.

Monta is able to offer an everyday watch with practical complications and features at a price that the luxury Swiss watchmakers simply can’t compete at. It is no wonder to see why they have been able to draw some mainstream collectors over to the micro brand dark side (or away from the dark side depending on how you look at it).

Conclusion

So, there you have it! We have journeyed through 15 different watchmakers and watches to help give you 15 of the best pilot watches under $2000. This is in no way a definitive list as several of these manufacturers could have their own list, but I hope it introduced you to some options you may not have thought of before.

Admittedly, pilot watches were never a genre that spoke to me directly, but after seeing some of the options out there I might be a full-on believer, a changed man so it seems. Perhaps that’s the fun, or the danger, in reading lists like this. At the end of the day knowledge is power, but with great power comes great responsibility. For me, that great responsibility usually ends in me sleeping on the couch, but maybe it will be with a new pilot watch adorning my wrist!