Imagine that you’re a new watch enthusiast. You have fallen in love with that Omega Seamaster 300 you saw strategically posed on Instagram and know that you need to have one. Being new to the game, you probably haven’t quite reached the levels of delusion allowing you to believe that $5000 plus on a watch is a “great value”, so it’s time to start searching everyone’s favorite auction site searching for the deal of a lifetime.
You’re armed with a little bit of knowledge and a lot of eagerness to be the next one to post a “New Watch Alert” in your favorite Facebook group. After a few weeks, you’ve found it! You’re almost shaking with excitement as you find “the deal of a lifetime” and can’t put your payment information in fast enough.
After a few minutes, the rush of excitement has likely subsided, and you have come off of cloud nine and returned comfortably to reality. Did you really just score a like new Omega Seamaster 300 for 1/3 of the MSRP because the seller “needs to sell ASAP”?
As reality settles in, you probably start doing what many of us would do in this situation. Frantically researching to see if you genuinely scored a deal or just learned a very expensive lesson.
Although this scenario plays out several times a day amongst several brands in the watch industry, we will specifically take a look at Omega and what to look for to avoid the pings of regret that this hypothetical new enthusiast is feeling right about now.
Why Are There So Many Fake Omega Watches?
With a history dating back to 1848, Omega is one of the most prestigious luxury watch brands in the industry. In terms of iconic models, few watch brands come anywhere near what Omega has been able to accomplish.
In particular, the Seamaster and Speedmaster lines have become synonymous with luxury watch design and are often victims of homage timepieces taking subtle (or not so subtle) inspiration from their design. There is a point where this flattery crosses the line, and for many people, that happens with the name on the dial.
If there is money to be made on the name of a product, there is someone illegally using that name to make a profit. There is no shortage of brands assembling watches and placing luxury brand names on the dial. These range from comically poor design and quality, to 1:1 super clones that require a very highly trained eye to determine the real from the replica.
8 Ways to Check Omega Watch Authenticity
We are going to focus this list on the super clones. From a picture, or sale listing, they look great, but how can we separate a luxury timepiece from one of the most prestigious brands in the industry from a piece of counterfeit trash? Get your loupe out; we’re taking a deep dive into the details of this one.
Serial Number
Depending on how good your eyes are, you might not need the Loupe just yet. The first thing to look for is a serial number on your Omega watch to verify authenticity. This serial number will be 7 to 8 digits and etched into the backside of your watch’s lug.
If you purchased a watch with the box and papers, these numbers should match. Just because a timepiece has a number etched into the lugs with matching paperwork does not always mean it’s authentic. A great next step will be to perform a simple Google search with the serial number on your watch.
Counterfeiters often produce an entire run of models using the same serial number to save cost, and you will see others listed for sale. These serial numbers are unique to the watch. If you find another one, it is almost certainly, unless you’re the unlucky owner of the original serial number that has been counterfeited, not an authentic watch (this is why you should never post a picture of your serial number).
Dial Printing
One of the most challenging and often overlooked characteristics of a watch is the printing on the dial. Whether it is just the chapter ring, or also the logo and branding or specifications, crisp and straight dial printing are hard to perfect (Just ask Seiko! Only kidding…sort of).
If you take out your jeweler’s loupe and closely inspect the dial, you should see very crisp printing with even spacing and perfectly level placement. If it looks less than perfect, you should be suspicious. Any brand can make a mistake (just look at Rolex with their double 9 Rolex Explorer), but Omega is one of the absolute best regarding these details.
Date Wheel
One of the most often ignored areas, even by the counterfeiters with the highest standards, is closely related to the dial printing. Even the best dial printing counterfeiter seems to haphazardly throw a standard date wheel in their watch 99/100 times.
An authentic Omega watch is going to feature a date wheel that is perfectly aligned and spaced properly over the entire date window. Much like the printing on the dial, the replica will not look anywhere near as crisp as what you should expect to find with a genuine Omega. These details are subtle from a distance, but with the help of your jeweler’s loupe are figuratively and literally magnified.
Solid Construction
If you have ever owned or tried on an authentic Omega watch, one thing that truly stands out is just how solid the construction is. Everything is machined to such a tight tolerance, and there is no doubt that you are wearing a luxury timepiece on your wrist.
Despite having some visual similarities, most replicas really lack that same feeling of heft on the wrist. Many of them are constructed decently, but it would be like comparing an entry-level Hamilton to an Omega. There are less precise tolerances, and the watch naturally loses some of that heft on the wrist.
There is nothing wrong with the construction of a watch like a Hamilton, but as much as enthusiasts love the brand, there would be more than a few eyebrows raised if they tried to price their timepieces in the same range as Omega, as many replicas are trying to do.
Case Finishing
Another area Omega is known to excel in is that of case finishing. Few brands can match the crisp transitions of brushed to highly polished, like Omega. Compared to an authentic Omega, a replica will have a much softer transition of brushed to polished surfaces.
When viewed on its own, it may appear well done and crisp, but compared side to side, the differences become much more apparent. The brushed surfaces will generally have a more aggressive brushing having ever so slight brush lines that you can detect with the very scientific fingernail test. The polished surface will likely not be as uniform and reflective as what you find with an authentic example either.
Movement Design
One of the hardest areas to replicate for a counterfeiter is the engine powering the watch. Many replica watches will feature a replica ETA 2824. These movements have a very generic finish that does not match the type of finish you would find on an authentic model.
Some higher-end counterfeiters will take things up a notch and replace the rotor with a similarly finished one. When looking through an open caseback, the movement will appear to be OK but spin the rotor out of the way, and the movement quickly reveals its secrets.
Movement Technology
One thing that is incredibly hard, if not impossible, for counterfeiters to replicate is brand-specific movement technology, such as the Co-Axial escapement featured on most of Omega’s modern watches. Unless you are very familiar with watchmaking, I’d leave this next level of identification to a professional watchmaker.
When opening up the watch and inspecting the movement, a trained watchmaker can quickly tell if the movement utilizes a Co-Axial escapement or just a dressed-up Swiss Lever escapement looking to play the part.
Trusted Seller
Of all of the things to look for on a watch to ensure authenticity, there is only one that is guaranteed to work. Counterfeiters are continuing to get better and better and are actively working to improve on the differences we have already pointed out on this list.
There is one thing counterfeiters will never be able to do, though, and that is to get their watches into an authorized Omega dealer. If you purchase from a trusted authorized dealer, you are guaranteed to have an authentic timepiece.
If your budget restricts you from purchasing brand new, take a look at their pre-owned inventory. If a watch shop is an authorized Omega dealer, you can rest assured that their preowned examples are also authentic.
The further your seller dilutes themselves from the original Omega source, the higher the risk is for you as a buyer. This is not to say that you shouldn’t trust any seller that is not an authorized dealer, just that you need to accept the fact that extra effort is required on your part to verify the piece you are looking to purchase is genuine.
Conclusion
If you are lucky enough to be considering a new or preowned Omega watch, congratulations! You are truly going to love your new timepiece. If you’re still saving and able to delay the gratification of the “New Watch Alert” post for a little while longer, save up until you can buy from a trusted source.
If you find a watch that seems like a good value and passes the guidelines we have presented here, spend a couple of extra dollars to have the watch authenticated by an authorized Omega dealer, preferably before you separate from your hard-earned cash.
That nominal fee will be worth every penny, whether it gives you peace of mind or prevents you from making a costly mistake. If you are browsing watches and find something that looks too good to be true, it probably is! Regardless of how cheap you are, don’t be tempted by the possibility of being able to score the deal of a lifetime due to someone else’s ignorance or need to sell something ASAP.
In this day and age, nobody is ignorant enough to list something without first doing a google search or impatient enough to give up thousands of dollars for the sake of selling a few hours sooner (you can price a watch aggressively to sell and not necessarily give it away).
Sometimes it’s obvious what we should avoid; other times, even seasoned collectors can end up bamboozled. If you do your research and follow these guidelines, you can ensure that you are enjoying an authentic Omega watch and greatly reduce the risk of making a costly mistake.
With all of the bells and whistles watch enthusiasts have become accustomed to over the years, it’s easy to overlook the fact that some watches really were designed simply as tools. In reality, the beautifully finished cases and in-house movements we all drool over are as superfluous as any grand complication when it comes to actually telling the time.
Thankfully, we are spoiled for choice and free to choose our own adventure when it comes to watch collecting. There is one brand, though, that manages to offer many of these more luxurious features at a price that won’t make you think twice about actually using it as a tool. That brand is Seiko.
When it comes to a product range, you’d be hard-pressed not to find something in almost any category or price range from Seiko. Whether you are looking for an impeccably finished tourbillion in the form of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force or an everyday beater suitable for any enthusiast in the 5kx line, Seiko has you covered. Despite the wide range of Seiko’s current offerings, their bread and butter is still value-packed dive watches.
There was a time, not that long ago when these affordable dive watches packed even more of a punch. One great example of exactly what Seiko was, and currently still is, capable of producing is the Seiko Samurai. Let’s take a deep dive into this watch and see what makes it so special and such a unique option in the Seiko product range.
History of the Seiko Samurai
The early 2000s represented the peak of value for money for many of Seiko’s dive watches. Their ability to produce high-quality watches at scale (and forget to account for inflation or relative comps) allowed Seiko to be the true king of value around this time.
In 2004, Seiko released a new watch design, one that would continue to provide exceptional value for money, with a unique case shape and robust 7S25 In-House movement. This watch was the SBDA001. A titanium watch featuring a brutalist design with sharp angles that helped to give this watch a unique aesthetic among the Seiko collection.
As you might have guessed, this watch would later become known as the Seiko Samurai. The nickname came to fruition from enthusiasts (we’re the best at naming timepieces) and was based on the shape of the first-generation hands. Their pointed shape shared a resemblance to the ancient swords used by Samurai, albeit straight, as opposed to the traditional curved shape of a Samurai sword.
Although modern examples of this watch feature an updated large arrow handset, the Samurai name continues to represent this model. Some will argue that the case shape still resembles the traditional armor of a Samurai, therefore justifying its nickname, but I am not fully sold on that comparison. Either way, it’s a great nickname and isn’t going anywhere.
About the Seiko Samurai
Given Seiko’s wide range of entry-level professional divers, you’d be excused for not knowing what separates the Samurai from other options in the line-up, such as the Turtle or the Monster. The Seiko Samurai shares many similar features with these models but also has some stark differences that help to differentiate it.
For starters, this watch has a very modern appearance. Gone are the soft curves of the Turtle and 5KX that were influenced by decades of previous models. The Samurai features sharp downward-sloping angles at the lugs and a trapezoidal profile. The watch is accented by a gnarled crown and bezel that help increase grip and add to the modern design aesthetic.
The Seiko Samurai is a big watch, given the larger case diameter of 42-44mm and 3 O’clock crown placement. Because of the unique case shape, the Samurai wears larger than even the 45mm Seiko Turtle. Depending on the model, these watches are made of titanium or stainless steel, feature Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal or Sapphire crystal, and have either ceramic or aluminum bezel inserts.
Regardless of the many options available in the lineup, every Seiko Samurai will be an ISO 6425 certified Dive Watch rated to 200m of water resistance.
Is the Seiko Samurai Worth Buying?
Based on everything we know about the Seiko Samurai, the question of whether you should buy one or not will really come down to you. To be clear, I think that every watch enthusiast should own at least 1 Seiko dive watch. That is not exactly the question, however. Whether or not this is the model line worth buying for you will depend upon a few different criteria.
Wrist Size
First is your wrist size. As mentioned earlier, 44mm for the current model range is a huge watch by today’s standards. The distinct case shape does not allow Seiko to use their usual magic to make a watch wear 3 to 4 millimeters smaller either. You need to have a larger-than-average wrist circumference or really like how a large watch feels and looks to wear this watch regularly.
Budget
The second factor is budget. The standard model Seiko Samurai, SRPB51, retails for roughly $525. That puts this watch in a unique place. It’s more expensive than 5KX of dive-inspired watches but quite a bit lower than watches in the SPB line. If your budget falls right in that $500-$600 range, you can’t do much better.
On the other hand, if you could afford to stretch to the SPB line, there are some very compelling options within that lineup that offer more refinement for your money. If you like to collect watches, rare Limited-Editions, and pseudo-vintage models and don’t mind spending the SPB level $800-$1200, however, the Seiko Samurai can provide something the current SPB line cannot, history and rarity.
The Best Seiko Samurai References
Assuming that your wrist is up to the challenge and that the Seiko Samurai price range coincides with your budget, I feel this watch is worth your hard-earned money. There are many different options that you can look at. Pre-owned earlier generation models, Limited-Editions, standard product models, and even “King Samurai” options can help you narrow down to exactly which watch is right for you. Let’s take a look at 8 examples of Seiko Samurai watches that are absolutely worth your money!
Seiko SBDA001
It only makes sense to start this list at the very beginning. The SBDA0001 is the original Seiko Samurai. The watch featured a more compact 42mm case size housed in lightweight titanium. As mentioned earlier, the handset on these first-generation models was shaped like a Samurai sword, ultimately leading to their enthusiast-given namesake.
The dial features a charcoal gray color reminiscent of the original dive watch Seiko produced, known as the 62MAS. The gray and black aluminum bezel insert helps modernize the appearance of the otherwise classic dial. These first-generation models were powered by the 7s25 movement, which made hacking and hand-winning impossible for these original models.
The mechanical upgrades to the modern Seiko Samurais are certainly a welcomed addition, but there is so much that Seiko got right with these original models. The slightly smaller 42mm case housed in titanium would send shockwaves amongst the Seiko enthusiast community if reintroduced today.
Although bordering on vintage these days, you can still find these models pre-owned for roughly $800-$1000. There is a significant premium for this watch over its original MSRP, but being the first of an iconic model still in production will have that effect.
Seiko SNM021
Another watch from the first generation, the SNM021, known as the Orange “Ninja” Samurai, gives a unique perspective on this already distinct watch. One main change from the standard production is that this case is constructed from stainless steel.
I am not in love with that decision, but it does help to differentiate it from the standard production model. In addition, the standard black and gray color combo is replaced by a vivid orange dial and gray bezel with red accents. With this watch being an international-only release, pre-owned examples are quite hard to come by. When they do pop up, you can expect to pay roughly $800-$1200, depending on the condition.
The following 4 examples come from the second generation of Seiko Samurai models introduced in 2017. These models benefit from an upgraded movement in the 4R35, allowing for hacking and hand-winding. In addition to this change, these models’ cases have been bumped up to 43.8mm and are all made of stainless steel. The Sword-style handset has also been “upgraded” to the large arrow-style hand many associate with the Seiko Monster.
The SRPB51 is the standard issue black waffle dial. This unique dial texture helps to give this watch additional visual interest while remaining very neutral. The gray and black aluminum bezel insert from the SBDA001 remains largely untouched and compliments this watch nicely.
The Seconds hand features a red tip, which helps break up the monochromatic color scheme on the dial and bezel. The SRPB51 is still readily available at many retailers at an MSRP of $525. Given that this watch has been around for a few years, there is an opportunity to save even more if you are willing to take a chance on the preowned market.
Seiko Prospex SRPB09
One of the most popular models to come out of the second generation of Seiko Samurais is that of the SRPB09, known as the Blue Lagoon. The deep blue sunray dial with accenting light and darker blue bezel are the highlights of this watch and share responsibility for the affectionate nickname of the Blue Lagoon.
The dial and handset also feature bright yellow pops, a color combination you don’t often see. This 6000-piece Limited Edition watch is no longer available at MSRP but can still be found on the grey market for $800-$1200.
Seiko Prospex SRPD13
The “Zimbe” edition of Seiko watches are often some of the most sought-after and collectible Limited Editions available. One of their more reserved variations comes in the form of the 1300-piece Limited Edition SRPD13. This watch features a very similar dial and handset to what can be found on the SPB143, with well-placed accents of red.
The seconds-hand is entirely red, while the bezel consists of both red and gray to compliment the aesthetic. The more subtle handset and pops of color make this watch my personal favorite on the entire list. With the smaller production size, this watch will be a little bit harder to source. If you are patient, however, pricing should be similar to the Blue Lagoon at $800-$1200.
Another common collaboration amongst Seiko dive watches is with PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. The SRPB99 PADI Special Edition draws inspiration from several other iconic watches while creating a truly unique Seiko Samurai.
The watch features a black wave dial reminiscent of the 90’s Omega Seamaster and a Pepsi bezel colorway. Combine these with the PADI logo on the dial, and it is very clear that this watch knows its audience. The PADI Special Edition watch represents a great value coming in at roughly $500 to $600.
The last two entries to this list are part of the third and latest generation of Seiko Samurai watches. These have become known as the “King Samurai” as they feature some elevated specifications across the board. These new models now feature ceramic bezel inserts as well as sapphire crystals with a “universally loved” date cyclops.
One of the most unique dial options available for a Seiko dive watch is a white dial. Combine this with a unique texture, like the waffle pattern, and you have something sure to stand out from the black and blue colorways crowd. The SRPE37 gives us exactly this colorway and is a call back to some of the most sought-after versions of their earliest models.
With this watch still being a standard version of a timepiece still in production, there are several avenues for acquiring this timepiece. Coming in at an MSRP of $595, this watch offers tremendous value considering the elevated specification that you see with this third generation. If you are willing to let someone else put the first few scratches on it, this watch it can be picked up for even less.
The final watch on our list today is a recently released 8000-piece Limited Edition SRPH97. This watch features a blackened stainless steel case and a black ceramic bezel. Complimenting this blacked-out aesthetic is a minty green-colored lume for the hands, indices, and bezel pip.
The color combination offers a unique look on a blacked-out watch and works very well together. There is a slight price premium for this edition with an MSRP of $675, but given the unique look of this timepiece, the price seems completely justified.
Final Thoughts
Given that the Seiko Samurai is one of Seiko’s newest iconic model lines, it’s surprising how many models exist and how much history there is. Admittedly, it’s not a model I have much experience with, given my slender chicken wrists. I really appreciate what Seiko did and has continued to do with this model.
With almost every watch manufacturer peering into the past when designing their dive watches, Seiko is creating this watch for the present. They have several other models that can help scratch the vintage-inspired itch, but this watch makes a choice to fit the modern aesthetic.
Where I would typically beg for a 38-40mm version of a watch I like but is too big for me, I am going to choose to withhold that request. This watch should continue to speak to people with modern tastes rather than try to please everyone.
The beauty of Seiko is that no matter what you like, there is a watch for you. It may not be the perfect watch, but it can be perfect for you. The Seiko Samurai isn’t the one for me, but it may be exactly what you’re looking for!
A timepiece can serve many purposes for the person whose wrist it adorns. They, of course, serve a practical function in telling the time or another practical purpose, such as elapsed time for a dive or another time zone. Perhaps the greatest complication that any watch can have is the ability to allow you to be another person.
Wearing a Rolex Explorer does not inherently make you more adventurous. But, I undoubtedly feel the desire to take the path less traveled when I have mine strapped to the wrist (a far cry from Mt. Everest, but my dog appreciates the new smells).
Watches allow the wearer to be whoever they want to be. A diver, a pilot, an astronaut, or even a jet-setting businessman are all possible with the right timepiece on the wrist. There are so few socially acceptable times when adults can use their imagination, and I, for one, am not afraid to admit that I love it!
One complication that has always stood out to me as the next evolution of timepiece LARPing, Live Action Role Playing (you’re a nerd just like me, don’t act like you didn’t know what that stood for!), is the world timer. The ability to see the time everywhere at once is one that I can’t ever imagine needing. That’s what’s great about imagination; we don’t really need to have the answers to pretend.
About the World Time Complication
So, what exactly is a world time complication? In a nutshell, this complication allows you to tell the time in all 24 time zones based on reference cities displayed on the dial. By knowing the reference city of your time zone and other reference points around the world, the wearer will essentially know the time worldwide.
Is it as practical as a standard GMT feature? Probably not, but since when has practicality been the deciding factor in which watch we wear? Back in 1931, Louis Cottier developed the world time function for a wristwatch as we know it today.
While 1931 is more than a couple of years ago, this complication is relatively modern in the grand scheme of watchmaking, especially when considering the tourbillon, another high-end mechanical feat of watchmaking was first seen in 1801, a mere 130 years prior.
The world time complication was originally seen on only the most luxurious watches produced by brands such as Patek Phillippe, the brand perhaps most synonymous with the complication. However, thanks to advancements in movement technology, this complication is no longer reserved for only those in the upper crust of society.
What is the Purpose of the World Time Watch?
When there are complications that provide similar functionality to the world time watch, why would someone choose the world time over these other simpler options? There are two very different but equally valid reasons to pick up a world time complication.
First, if you frequently communicate with people in several time zones, no complication will allow you to track more than 3 time zones simultaneously.
This is definitely a minority of the population. But, if you have a family that has dispersed internationally or if you conduct international business, I could see this feature being very practical for your everyday life. Even a traveler-style GMT with a rotational timing bezel will struggle to keep up with this level of demand.
I suspect that the second reason is one that applies to 90% of the people considering one of these timepieces. The ability to tell time around the world is the ultimate horological flex! Watch enthusiasts are obsessed with telling the time, and no watch can tell you the time in as many places at a glance as a world timer. Whether it’s a fun party trick or our desire to pretend we are a true world traveler, the world timer complication has an undeniable cool factor.
The Best Seiko World Time Watches
As much as I love the world time feature, it has always seemed out of reach for someone with a far looser belt than me. As mentioned earlier, the enhancements in movement technology have brought this complication down to accessibility for the other 99% of watch collectors.
Perhaps the last brand you would associate with the world time complication is the one that I would suggest you look at if you’re interested in dipping your toe in the complication.
Enthusiast-favorite Seiko has been innovating in this space and quietly producing model after model that continues to bring the world time to the masses. Let’s take a look at some of the best examples from Seiko that feature a world time complication.
Seiko is a brand known for pushing the limits of watchmaking. Whether it was their near Swiss watch crippling quartz movement of the late 1960s or the modern Spring Drive movement delivering the very best of quartz and mechanical movement technologies, Seiko has always been a pioneer.
Knowing this history, the innovative Seiko Astron line should come as no surprise. This line of watches features a quartz-powered movement that is regulated by a GPS signal. This series of watches delivers incredible internal technology with the beautiful finishing we have come to expect from Seiko’s premium line of watches.
The Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH003, is a 42.9mm watch made of titanium. The watch features a sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel. The 50.7mm lug-to-lug and 12mm case thickness help this larger cased watch fit slightly smaller on the wrist. The GPS Solar 5X53 movement allows this watch to feature a world time function and a perpetual calendar allowing the date to be accurate until the year 2100 (no more date changes for you!).
The watch receives power from the sun and can remain charged for up to 6 months on a full charge. If you are looking for a watch that is truly set and forget, few watches can compete with this Seiko. Coming in at about $2350, this Seiko Astron watch provides a user experience few brands can match at any price.
If innovative technology is not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Seiko, I am willing to bet that the name Seiko conjures up an idea of affordability. Seiko has been the market leader in many segments when it comes to providing value for money, and the word time function is no different.
The Seiko Prospex, Ref. SSC507 is a 42mm stainless steel watch featuring a world time and chronograph function. This watch is accented by many of the finishing details you expect to see on watches several times the price, such as 100M of water resistance and sapphire crystal.
This Prospex model is powered by the V195 solar quartz movement, further aiding in the everyday usability of this watch. If you were intrigued by the Seiko Astron mentioned earlier, but your budget can only stretch to roughly $475 (many discounts to be had on this one!), you’d be hard-pressed to beat this model. You may have to set the date a couple of times a year, but with the money you are saving, I think you’ll manage!
Seiko’s ability to have a watch for every type of customer is unmatched in the watch world. Despite having two ends of the quartz spectrum already covered on this list, they have a different product line for those who might be after something between these two options.
Although it can be seen as too many options, I’d argue that when it comes to watches, you can never have too many options. The Seiko Coutura, Ref. SSG009, features a 44.5mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet giving this watch more of a wrist presence than the others on this list thus far.
The watch features a chronograph function in addition to its world time complication. These features are made possible by the solar quartz caliber 8B92. Whereas the Astron line is controlled by GPS signal, these movements are regulated by radio control.
These signals are less standardized than the GPS of the Astron but provide very similar functionality. Coming in at a price of $595, this Seiko Coutura provides great functionality at a very approachable price.
When looking at the Astron line from Seiko, I am always impressed by their willingness to take a chance on design. Some of the products have futuristic designs while others play with colors that on paper don’t do it for me, but in person, absolutely pop! The Seiko Astron, ref. SSH121, is a great example of both of these attributes.
The 43.1mm titanium case and integrated bracelet give off the appearance of a PVD coating thanks to the black “super hard coating” applied to the titanium. The vivid blue dial is not what I would have chosen if I was a designer, but after seeing how the whole package comes together, it’s clear that I should keep my opinions to myself.
The watch is powered by the 5X33 movement providing solar charging, GPS regulation, and a perpetual calendar in addition to the world time function qualifying this watch for our list. Coming in at a price of $2400, this Astron represents tremendous value for someone who wants a futuristic watch but can’t get behind the smart watch movement.
Another entry from the affordable Prospex line of watches is the Seiko Prospex, Ref. SSC489. This watch features a more substantial 44.5mm stainless steel case and is powered by the same V195 movement as was seen in the previous Prospex model on this list.
Because of this, you will find the same solar quartz technology powering a chronograph and world time function in addition to standard timekeeping. This watch has been paired with a blue silicone strap that compliments the functionality, as well as it does the blue dial.
The pops of red on the crown stem (much like a Tudor Black Bay) and hour hand help to give this dial a pop of color. Although these are no longer for sale at the $595 MSRP, they are still readily available through other gray market providers.
If you like the Prospex style of watches but are looking for something a little sleeker, the Seiko Prospex, Ref, SSG015, may be an option to consider. Coming in at a familiar size of 44.5mm, this stainless steel watch looks different from the others on this list. That is thanks to the black ion-plated stainless steel.
The watch has a darker appearance than titanium but is not quite as dark as DLC or a PVD coating. The dark color, in combination with the aviation-inspired high-contrast black dial with white script, helps to give this watch a more traditional look than some of the others we’ve seen.
The watch is powered by the Seiko 8B92 movement and features a world time function, chronograph, and radio-controlled adjustment. Coming in at a price of $595, this is another watch from Seiko that punches well above its weight.
If you are in the market for a high-end GPS-controlled watch with a futuristic design to match, the Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH119, may be the watch for you. This Seiko Astron shares the same 5X33 movement as the one previously mentioned and matches the watch in functionality with GPS radio control, world time capability, and a perpetual calendar complication.
What this watch does differently, however, is present these specs in a much more modern execution. This watch features an integrated bracelet with sharp angles and a 43mm case diameter forged in a titanium case with a super hard scratch-resistant coating.
The textured charcoal dial with midnight blue subdials offers a modern aesthetic that matches the case design. If you’re looking for a premium modern world time watch from Seiko, The Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH119, for $2200, is a great option to consider.
8. Seiko Age of Discovery SPL062
Taking a starkly different direction from the futuristic angles of the Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH119, is the budget-friendly Limited Edition Seiko Age of Discovery, Ref. SPL062, for around $450. This watch is the antithesis of the Astron in both cost and design.
The watch features a more modest 40mm case dimension housed in an antique-finish bronze case. This finish is not one that you often find, which helps this timepiece stand out from the crowd. The sunburst brown dial and gold Roman numerals help to provide a cohesive design to match the unique case finish.
Powering this model is the caliber 5T82 quartz movement which features a world time complication as well as an alarm. If you want a watch that stands out from the crowd but maintains a traditional design language, the Seiko SPL062 is hard to beat.
9. Seiko GMT World Time 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SPL055
If you like the look of the Seiko Age of Discovery but can’t quite get behind the look of the antique bronze finish, the Seiko Limited Edition SPL055 could be exactly what you’re looking for. Functionally, this watch is identical to the previously mentioned Seiko Age of Discovery while being powered by the same 5T82 caliber.
The case dimensions even remain consistent with this timepiece, but the antique bronze case and sunburst brown dial are exchanged for a more neutral stainless steel case and white dial. The gold accents and Roman numerals remain and look equally complimentary with this colorway. This watch easily passes for a watch that costs many multiples of the $375 MSRP, making this a great value for someone on a tighter budget.
10. Seiko Selection SBTM329
While looking through this list I am sure you have noticed the trend of sub-dials. While many prefer this look, some appreciate the aesthetics of a clean dial. That’s where the Seiko Selection, Ref. SBTM329, comes to save the day. The 39.5mm case with the matching bracelet is a size not often seen on Seiko watches in titanium.
Along with the 9.5mm case thickness and 100m of water resistance, you may have one of the best options for an everyday piece from Seiko at any price point. The solar-powered caliber 7B75 provides radio control, World time functionality, and a perpetual calendar to boot.
However, the real showstopper with this watch has to be the clean black dial with numeral indices. If you missed the cities along the rehaut, you could easily confuse this watch as a time-only watch.
Prices and availability are a little hit or miss on this model, which is currently available only in Japan. But you can expect to pay $350-$450, which makes this watch an absolute bargain for everything it can do.
11. Seiko Sportura SSF005
If you really like the idea of a GPS-controlled quartz movement but can’t quite stretch to the $2k+ of the Astron series, the Seiko Sportura, Ref. SSF005, may be just what you’re looking for. Coming in at a price of $1250 (with many discounts available on the gray market), this watch offers a lot of the functionality you would expect from a watch in the Astron line costing twice that.
Powered by the 8X22 caliber, this watch features GPS control, World time functionality, and a perpetual calendar. The watch is housed in a large 45.2mm black PVD-coated stainless steel case with a matching bracelet, making this option better suited for larger wrists.
This timepiece features a black dial with simple stick indices that add to the stealth appearance of the black PVD-coated case. If your budget can’t quite get you to a Seiko Astron, this Sportura offers the same functionality in a beautiful, albeit slightly less refined, case.
If you loved the look of that last watch but can stretch your budget slightly for a more refined execution, the Seiko Astron SSE159, for roughly $1650, is a great option to consider. This watch shares the 45.2mm case dimension with a matching bracelet but has gone with a standard stainless steel appearance.
The dial layout is very similar, but the simple black dial from the Sportura has been swapped for a magnificent blue dial with vertical stripes. This watch is also powered by the 8X22 movement providing the same functionality and versatility. If you are looking for a beautifully finished GPS-controlled quartz movement with a stunning blue dial, this is a great option to consider.
13. Seiko Criteria World Timer SPL045
Sometimes a watch is large for a purpose, such as a pilot watch or a diver, and other times a watch is just big to make a statement. The Seiko SPL045 is a 46mm black PVD-coated stainless steel watch that certainly makes a statement. Make no mistake, the sub-dials are certainly easier to read, but given the larger crown guard system with symmetrical “ear”, much like a Patek Phillipe Nautilus, this timepiece is meant to grab attention.
The Neon green accents on the dial play nice with the black dial and black PVD case, giving this timepiece a more futuristic look. Powered by the 5T82 caliber movement, this watch provides a world time complication in addition to an alarm function. If you are looking for a large world timer at a budget-friendly price of $595, this Seiko SPL045 should definitely be on your radar.
Although there is no doubt that Seiko has the ability to produce some unbelievable world time watches today, I truly believe that their best examples are from their historical archives. The Seiko 6217-7000 from the Tokyo Olympics in 1964 is a great example of vintage Seiko at its best.
The watch features a timeless 37.5mm stainless steel case with a 4 O’clock crown. There are 2 color variations available on this model, but the silver dial with the black and blue non-rotatable internal 24-hour bezel is my favorite of the bunch.
The outside chapter ring with cities from around the world is highlighted in vivid red, which helps to give this dial a very unique look. The 6217A caliber is the first automatic caliber to grace this list but will not be the last. Coming in at a price of roughly $1250-$1500, this is one of the best affordable vintage world timer watches on the market today from any brand.
15. Seiko World Time Asian Games 1966 (ref. 6217-7010)
Another offering from the Seiko historical archive is the Seiko 6217-7010 from the Asian Games in 1966. This watch represents a minor refinement over the previously mentioned 6217-7000. The case back has been upgraded from a snap back to a screw-down, while the hands gained a coat of luminous material to aid in low-light visibility.
Other than that, Seiko did exactly what they should have done; not much. The silver and charcoal dial options remain, while my favorite is still the latter. If you are looking for a vintage watch that can better withstand the requirements of a more active lifestyle, the Seiko 6217-7010 can provide exactly what you need for a slight premium of roughly $1500-$2000.
Conclusion
So, there you have it, 15 of the best Seiko world time watches! Many of these models tend to fly under the radar to most enthusiasts but are great examples of the power of Seiko. Whether it’s driving innovation with the popularization of the quartz movement in the early 1970s or unlocking the potential of this innovation with the refinements of GPS and solar technologies, Seiko is a brand that continuously raises the bar.
If we’re lucky enough to strap one of these Seiko world time watches on our wrist, rather than idolizing the world traveler who may need to wear one, perhaps we should aim to channel the innovative spirit of Seiko. If we are able to tap into this, even just a little bit, I am sure we will be better off for it!
One of the first brands many watch enthusiasts discover in this incredible journey of watch collecting is Omega. Whether your discovery occurs as a natural progression or simply a search for “Best Rolex Alternatives”, few brands can match the experience and product offering that Omega can.
They have some of the most iconic timepieces to their credit, from the space-dwelling Omega Speedmaster to the versatile master of town, sea, and country Omega Seamaster.
Despite the undeniable history and legacy of the Omega Speedmaster, I have always been more of a Seamaster fan myself. The versatility of the collection and its ability to be appropriate for any situation have made these watches the grail of many watch collectors.
History of Omega Seamaster
The Omega Seamaster began in 1948 as the 100th anniversary of the brand. Initially built off the success of simple time-only watches of World War II, these watches featured the same robust construction and caliber 30T2 architecture but housed in a more elegant design.
They could still tackle any environment from town, sea, and country, but their ability to serve as a dive watch wouldn’t come until almost a decade later, in 1957. The Omega Seamaster 300 and Omega Seamaster Railmaster, released in 1957, would come to identify the range through to the current collection.
Omega continued to release bezel-free watches that offered unique colors and functionality, from time only to world timers and virtually everything in between. The Aqua Terra, originally released in 2002, based heavily on the Seamaster 120 from years previous, is the current execution of the original Seamaster line. They are robust, capable, and distinctly classy.
The 1950s and 1960s saw the Mil-Spec design aesthetic of the Seamaster 300 that defined many watches of the era. The 1970s would see the introduction of the Ploprof 600, a saturation-capable monstrosity that was over-engineered and competed head-to-head with the Rolex Sea-Dweller.
The 1980s was a weird time for the Seamaster and Omega in general. Omega focused on quartz technology and not so subtly took some design cues from their main competitor Rolex. Thankfully for Omega, and all watch enthusiasts, the 1990s were a return to form for Omega, who found great success with their Bond partnership and the Seamaster Diver 300 that accompanied it and remains the basis of design for their current lineup.
In addition to the current flagship offering, the current Seamaster has a line of divers capable of saturation diving. First with the quirky Ploprof, mentioned earlier, and most recently with the more subdued Planet Ocean line of divers. Fortunately for those of us who adore the vintage aesthetic from their dive heritage, Omega also has a Seamaster 300 line that pulls from the 1950s design with modern specifications.
Omega Seamaster Characteristics
Many of the timepieces we see today in the Seamaster collection would fall firmly into the dive watch category. However, some modern timepieces harken back to the original design identity of those bezel-free beauties. The true value of the current collection comes in the sheer variety available for consumers.
Pick your color, style, functionality, and even historical inspiration. Omega most likely has a Seamaster to fit your needs (if not, just give it a few more years; Omega has no problem milking this cash cow, rightfully so!). Although no official requirement exists, the original Omega Seamaster mantra for town, sea, and country best summarizes the collection.
These watches are versatile everyday pieces that, despite leaning casual or sporty, won’t look out of place in almost any environment. Now that we know a little more about the history and variety available let’s take a look at 15 of the best examples of Omega Seamaster watches. With the variety available within the lineup, this list was harder to put together than I expected.
Why not kick this list off with the modern interpretation of what many people think when they hear Seamaster. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is the current offering of the brand’s most iconic watch within the lineup.
After the success of the Bond partnership initially seen on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in the Goldeneye blockbuster of 1995, this general design was cemented as one of the many iconic models within the Omega brand. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 210.30.42.20.03.00 features a 42m stainless steel case with the iconic wave motif laser etched into a blue ceramic dial.
Matching the dial is the blue ceramic bezel insert, giving this watch a similar color combination to the original but in a very modern luxurious way. As the name implies, this watch provides a 300M water resistance thanks in part to its love-it-or-hate-it helium escape valve.
This Seamaster is powered by the METAS-Certified in-house caliber 8800, featuring a Co-Axial escapement and free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring that provides a 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance. Coming in at $5600 on the stainless steel bracelet, this example represents one of the most affordable and iconic examples of the illustrious Seamaster line.
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is, in many ways, the modern interpretation of the original Seamaster DNA. Before the release of the Seamaster with a rotatable bezel aimed at professional divers, the Seamaster was an everyday watch.
A reliable movement, simple design, and robust construction helped to separate the original Seamaster from the competition. The Aqua Terra does the same thing, albeit with some more luxurious touches. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001 features a 41mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet.
Although available in several color iterations, the black dial with a teak pattern provides the clearest example of this model range. The twisted lugs and arrow minute hand help to give the bezel-less design a sportier look and feel.
The 150M of water resistance and robust caliber 8900 ensure this watch is up to almost any task you can throw at it. In the world of versatile watches, few can compete with the Aqua Terra. Coming in at a price of $5900, these watches offer a very compelling option to anyone on the hunt for the “one watch collection”.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a great example of modern specification melding perfectly with vintage design cues. The 600M of water resistance ensures that this model line can accompany you on any adventure you can throw its way. What really helps this watch stand out, however, is its subtle nod to the past.
This watch is by no means a vintage re-edition, but several easter eggs are sprinkled throughout the design. The broad arrow handset and Arabic numerals on the dial are reminiscent of the original 1957 Seamaster 300, while the ceramic bezel and helium escape valve are very modern features borrowed from the previously mentioned Omega Seamaster Diver 300M.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002) features a 43.5mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet. The black dial is accented with pops of orange in the numerals and second hand, which also carry over to the first 15 minutes of the ceramic bezel insert.
The helium escape valve is still a marmite feature in the Omega Seamaster collection, but it does feel slightly more appropriate on a watch boasting 600-meter water resistance.
The caliber 8900 in this watch matches the functionality on the outside with the 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance and free-sprung balance.
There is a slight premium of $6700 over the standard Seamaster Diver 300M, but given the extra specification and prices of rival Rolex’s Sea-Dweller line, the watch provides a lot of value for the money.
In the watch world, few endorsements carry as much weight as that of Mr. Bond, James Bond. The Omega Seamaster has been the watch brand of choice for Bond since the 1995 Goldeneye release, and since then, there has been no shortage of limited editions to commemorate the partnership.
The latest iteration of this partnership has undoubtedly struck a chord, not just with Bond fans but with watch enthusiasts in general. The Omega Seamaster “No Time To Die” (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) features the same size and case shape as the standard Omega Seamaster Diver 300M but is housed in grade 2 titanium while sporting a modern caliber 8806 movement.
The watch is paired with a mesh titanium bracelet that features an adjustable buckle. The true showstopper for this watch is the vintage aesthetic. Where Omega generally leans into the modern aesthetic with the Diver 300M line, this watch looks like it was plucked right out of the 1950s. The Bond branding is subtle, featuring a British MOD arrow and an inscription on the back of the watch.
This watch will set you back $9500, which is a fairly substantial premium over the standard model. But, given the innovative case material, unique design, and Bond partnership, this watch is worthy of the price.
Sticking with the vintage-inspired theme, let’s look at the Omega Seamaster 300, ref. 234.30.41.21.01.001. This model is based on the Omega Seamaster introduced in 1957 alongside the Railmaster and Speedmaster collections.
The current model features a 41mm stainless steel case powered by the time-only caliber 8912. A couple of color variations are available for this model, but the black dial with a matching black bezel stays true to the original design.
The dial sports a healthy amount of “fauxtina” on the hands, indices, and Arabic numerals. The color has been matched on the anodized aluminum bezel insert, which helps give this timepiece a cohesive vintage aesthetic.
Coming in at $6700 on the stainless steel bracelet, this watch features much of what the “No Time to Die” offers in a smaller and more historically accurate package.
Although this watch will ultimately appeal to a different type of collector than many of the more modern designs, you will have the same construction and specification as any Seamaster in the current lineup.
As mentioned earlier, 1957 was a big year for Omega. Omega redefined their collection by releasing the Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster while introducing another new product line to the trilogy. The third and often overlooked model in that trilogy is the Omega Seamaster Railmaster.
The Railmaster line was originally introduced as a timepiece for engineers, much like the original Milgauss from Rolex. The Omega Seamaster Railmaster, ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001, is a modern interpretation of this original design ethos. The anti-magnetic properties that helped distinguish this product line from the other 3 hand models of the day are still present (as it is with any modern Omega Seamaster) thanks to the caliber 8806.
The 40mm stainless steel case is a more modern case size but still carries the everyday wearability of the original. The Railmaster dial and handset have a “fauxtina” appearance drawing upon the vintage inspiration, while the dial itself in charcoal gray features a unique dial pattern that leans into the modern aesthetic and build quality.
Coming in at a price of $5200, this watch presents a great entry point into the world of Omega that perfectly blends where they have been with where they are now.
When comparing complications for tool watches, many people are torn between the timing dive bezel and the chronograph function. Both of these complications provide extra functionality and help to give a timepiece a unique look. Who says you can’t have your cake and eat it too? Omega has provided several examples of these diving chronographs, perhaps none better than what they provide in their current collection.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, ref. 210.30.44.51.01.001, is a beefed-up 44mm stainless steel watch that features much of the design language of the standard Diver 300M. The ceramic dial and bezel and dial with wave motif are both present, as is the helium escape valve.
What helps this watch stand out is the chronograph function made possible by the caliber 9900. This movement provides many of the features we have come to expect with current Omega movements and adds the functionality of a column wheel chronograph.
Amazingly this watch still features a 300M water resistance, which is especially impressive when you consider the chronograph Omega is most known for is only rated for 50M. If you are looking for a very robust and functional chronograph watch, this Omega for $8100 is one of the best options available from any brand.
If the dive bezel and chronograph aren’t quite your cup of tea, but you still want something more than a time-only design, Omega still has something for you. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT “GoodPlanet”, ref. 231.90.43.22.04.001, is a 43mm grade 5 titanium watch with a crisp white dial and blue hands and indices.
As the name suggests, this Aqua Terra has a little trick up its sleeve and that comes thanks to the caliber 8605 and its “traveler style” GMT functionality. This movement allows for the changing of the hour hand without stopping the minutes or seconds hands.
Although this feature is not a requirement for a GMT watch, it is often seen as the more elegant style of GMT functionality. The partnership with GoodPlanet, which aids in environmental conservation, ensures you can feel as good about your purchase of $10,800 as the watch will look on your wrist.
When it comes to precision timekeeping, there are few requirements as stringent as the Olympic Games. The difference between a medal and not can often be determined by mere fractions of a second. Since 1932 this responsibility has fallen on the shoulders of Omega.
They have only continued to perfect their craft in the time since, and their latest 2,032-piece limited edition is evidence of this fact. The Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper, ref. 522.32.40.20.01.001, sports a 39.5mm bezel-free stainless steel case. The black dial is surrounded by a wide white chapter ring with blue accents on the dial as well as a matching blue seconds hand.
This watch is inspired by the more colorful examples from the late 1960s and 1970s, such as the Dynamic range. Powering this movement is the very capable caliber 8800. If you are looking for a more adventurous design from some of the others on this list, at $5,600, this Seamaster is a great option to go with whether you’re a fan of the Olympics or not.
When the Seamaster was originally released in 1948, the design was more reminiscent of what we consider a dress watch by today’s standards. Despite its robustness for the time, the simple center seconds or sub seconds models are very classically designed.
These early vintage examples have been a great entryway into the Omega Seamaster line for many watch enthusiasts that appreciate the aesthetic and can rock a 33mm-35mm timepiece. In 2018, Omega decided to reintroduce these original models while making some concessions to appease modern tastes.
The Omega Seamaster 1948, ref. 511.13.38.20.02.002, features a beefed-up 38mm stainless steel case based on the center seconds model released in 1948. The dial, except for the “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” text, is a nearly identical match to the original it is paying homage to.
As the writing on the dial indicates, the Co-Axial caliber 8806 takes the specification of this watch well into the modern era. The thick lugs, knurled crown, and an etched crystal, now made of modern sapphire, help keep the original design’s charm while providing all of the enhancements the last 70 years have provided.
Coming in at a price of $6600, this Seamaster is a considerable amount more than the originals from 70 years previous. But, given the modern specification and historically accurate charm, this Seamaster is one of the best vintage reeditions from any brand.
When looking at the current Omega Seamaster lineup, few watches truly stand out from others in the lineup. That is in no way taking away from the design language of the Seamaster, simply pointing out the fact that besides some minor quirks like the helium escape valve, the Seamaster line is a modern example of traditional watch design.
That wasn’t always the case for Omega. They were once known for some truly unique designs that did anything but played it safe. The first of these we will look at is a recreation of the 1969 chronograph that literally turned the watch world on its head.
The Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph, ref. 225.12.43.50.01.001, is a modern interpretation of the original 1969 Bullhead Chronograph that came to define the style. Coming in at 43mm X 43mm and housed in a stainless steel case, this watch is not one that will go unnoticed.
The unique placement of the crowns and pushers really sets this watch apart. The placement at the top and bottom serves two functions. First, it allows the user to activate the chronograph pushers while in a more natural position for reading the time, and second, it improves the wearability on the wrist. This watch is powered by a caliber 3113 with Co-Axial escapement and a 52-hour power reserve.
With the addition of an internal rotatable bezel, this watch is as functional as it is funky. Although limited to 669 pieces, a low number by Omega limited-edition standards and lack of availability brand new, this once $9600 timepiece can be had for even less if you’re willing to let someone else put the first few scratches on it.
When looking at quirky models within the Omega Seamaster line, one watch stands above the rest. The Omega Ploprof was originally developed back in 1971 after 3 years of prototypes to help design a watch capable of reaching 600M.
The Monoblock stainless steel case, an extra thick crystal, and unique bezel locking mechanism were engineered so meticulously that they would not even allow the tiny helium molecules to enter the watch and present challenges after decompression.
Unfortunately for Omega, Rolex built upon their Submariner lineup and made some slight enhancements, including a simple helium escape system that made for a safe method for helium to enter and exit the watch, effectively solving the problem in a much simpler way.
That doesn’t mean this Omega Seamaster Ploprof isn’t one incredible piece of kit, though! The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M, ref. 227.90.55.21.04.001, is the modern interpretation of this iconic design. The case shape, with its unique bezel lock and crown guard system, remains, as does the signature mesh bracelet.
The case measures in at an eye-watering 55mm X 48mm, but thanks to the grade 5 titanium of the case and grade 2 of the bracelet the watch comes in at 172 grams. Despite the large dimension, this watch is surprisingly wearable for those with above-average wrists.
The depth rating has been doubled from the original 600M to a very impressive 1200M. The watch is powered by the caliber 8912, ensuring that the functionality on the outside of this Ploprof is matched by what’s on the inside. Coming in at a price of $12,600, this absolute spec monster provides exceptional functionality with a design that is all its own.
Just when you think 1200M is overkill, Omega comes out and releases a watch that makes that look like a dip in the pool. The race to the bottom between Rolex and Omega has been well documented. But, in a nutshell, these two brands can’t help but produce watches that one up the other regardless of their practical significance to the end user.
In 2019, Omega dealt their latest blow in the form of a commercially available watch that can reach 6000M. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M, ref. 215.30.46.21.03.001, is a 45.5mm timepiece made out of O-Megasteel that has been over-engineered in almost every way to help it achieve the 6000M depth rating.
The case and crystal are thicker, coming in at 18.1mm, but thanks to the wider case, it is still wearable for those with larger wrists. The watch is powered by the reliable caliber 8912. The real surprise with this watch is that it ultimately looks like any other Planet Ocean model, minus the helium escape valve.
For $12,000, Omega managed to do something they could not do when their Ploprof lost to the Sea-Dweller; they refined rather than reinvent the wheel.
Omega has proven several things about watch marketing with its Omega Seamaster collection. One of those is the power of partnerships, and the other is that people appreciate vintage design cues. Thankfully for us, those two marketing principles are not mutually exclusive.
Omega was able to prove this with their 2015 limited edition of the Bond franchise. The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition, ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001, is a 41mm stainless steel timepiece that follows the design aesthetic from the original 1957 Seamaster 300 and is powered by the Co-Axial caliber 8400.
The major difference is the 12-hour timing bezel that helped to give this vintage-inspired timepiece a new look and functionality. This 7007-piece limited edition is the watch worn by Mr. Bond during the blockbuster movie Spectre.
This timepiece has long sold out but can still be found pre-owned for roughly $10,000, representing an intriguing option for any Bond or Omega enthusiast.
While putting together this list of great Seamaster watches, one thing stood out to me. Many of these watches wouldn’t be here without the great designs in Omega’s historical archives. The 1950s and 1960s developed Omega’s traditional design language, while the 1970s gave us some of the quirky designs that helped break Omega out of that shell.
It wasn’t until the mid-1990s that those two sides of Omega truly blended and gave us a unique design language that felt more traditional and less quirky. The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M, ref. 2531.80.00, although not the very first reference to bear this design, is the watch many people think of when they hear Omega Seamaster.
The cameo in Goldeneye and the N64 classic video game that accompanied it proved that partnerships, when done correctly, can work! The watch became an overnight success and still remains popular among us nostalgia-chasing watch enthusiasts who remember the countless hours wasted with friends battling for Bond supremacy.
The watch itself features a 41mm stainless steel case with an aluminum bezel insert. Although available in a few color iterations, the blue dial and blue bezel is the true icon. The wave motif and skeletonized sword hands are present and very reminiscent of the models in the current lineup.
This watch featured the caliber 1120, based on the ETA 2892. It may not feature many of the great enhancements of their current Co-Axial range, but it is a reliable and beautiful movement nonetheless. The preowned market has been steadily increasing for this model, but you can expect to pay roughly $3000 for a good example. Considering the history and design, this is a watch I could picture saying, “I wish I bought it when I could”.
Conclusion
There you have it, 15 of the best Omega Seamaster references. With so much variety in the product line, it is hard to believe that all of these options bear the Seamaster branding. Whether you are looking for a time-tested icon or simply a great everyday piece to accompany you on any adventure, the Omega Seamaster has the option to satisfy your needs.
Thankfully, unlike their main competitor Rolex, you’ll even have the opportunity to go to an Authorized Dealer and try a few on. Regardless of which model you settle on, the Omega Seamaster is definitely worthy of at least 1 spot in any watch box.
It’s about this time of year for those of us in the Midwest of the United States that Winter seems to really drag. The sunless days and subzero temps will have you “California Dreamin” like the Mama’s and the Papa’s. What if you could escape the cold gray tundra for the golden coasts of California with a glance of your wrist?
The ever-controversial mix mash of Arabic and Roman numerals may not be enough to physically transport you to a warmer climate. But its unique dial layout may be able to break up the monotony of Winter just the same.
History of California Dials
The history of the California dial is a lot more interesting than what you expect when looking at the quirky Arabic and Roman numeral combo. The 1930s first introduced the dial design as we know it, commonly referred to as the “Error Proof” or “High Visibility” dial.
First utilized by Rolex, the dial layout would become synonymous with Italian tool watchmaker Panerai, a brand you will see throughout this article. What makes this history interesting is less about the actual origin of the dial and more about why we now refer to it as a “California” dial.
Fast forward from the 1930s to the 1980s, and the world of watch collecting began picking up steam. Collectors were drawn to the classic watches of the 1930s-1950s. What separates the 1980s from the current state of vintage watch collecting is our current obsession with originality.
Unpolished cases, patina, and refinished dials were not driving the market prices like they do today. The name of the game in the 1980s was having the most sought-after dial, whether it was original or not. One aspect that does carry through with vintage watch collecting today is the obsession with quirky details. One of these coveted details was that of the “Error Proof” dial.
Although many watch dial refinishers were renowned for their expertise in recreating these dials, Kirk Rich Dial Co became synonymous with the style. So synonymous, in fact, that the California dial nickname is based on the location of their facility in, you guessed it, California. You can think of them as the Bamford Watch Company of their day.
Should You Buy a California Dial?
Despite having a unique origin story and appearance, the California dial is not for everyone. Although having a self-confessed soft spot for vintage recreations, I recently warmed up to the uniqueness of the California dial. Should you buy a watch with a California dial? That’s going to be completely up to you!
There are some great options, 10 of which we will look at in this article, but if you instinctually give these watches a confused look, you’re not alone. If you are not repulsed by the dial, you need to give one of these watches a try! They’re different and unintentionally fun in a no-nonsense kind of way. Let’s take a look at 10 of the best watches with California dials.
There is no better place to begin than with Rolex. The luxury Swiss brand is credited with trademarking the “Error Proof”, later nicknamed “California’ dial in 1941. The first known references from the brand to feature the unique dial layout were released during World War II. One of the most revered models is that of the Viceroy Radium, ref. 3116.
These models come in a very modest 31mm case in various metals. The case features the elongated shape of the later released “bubble back’ automatic models, despite being powered by a manually winding movement. This model was available in several dial configurations, the rarest of which being the error-proof.
Due to the rarity of original error-proof dials, this style of Rolex was commonly the victim of the previously mentioned redial from the likes of Kirk Rich Dial Co or other prominent refinishers of the time. Due to the rarity of the model, pricing this model can be difficult. My advice, if you see one, and can afford it, just get it!
Despite not owning the California dial patent, Panerai is synonymous with its current utilization. This list will be admittedly Panerai heavy, but given the brand’s history and current lineup, there was no other way around this. If you like the look of vintage military-inspired watches with a clean aesthetic and modern sizing, Panerai is the brand for you.
Leading the charge from Panerai will be the Radiomir 1936, ref. PAM00249. The Radiomir style features distinct wire lugs, sporting a very Panerai 47mm stainless steel case and manually-winding movement. The dial features a clean black dial and California dial and handset in an aged radium color. This 1936-piece limited edition was originally released in 2006.
Despite the 1936 namesake on this watch, there is some debate whether this watch originally featured a California-style dial at this time due to the Rolex Patent for the design not occurring until 1941. Regardless of the controversy, this may be the cleanest execution of this dial layout and well worth the roughly $9000-$10000 price they can be purchased for.
Rolex is not the only Hans Wilsdorf founded company to produce a California dial throughout the years. Tudor has been producing similarly designed watches at more affordable prices to their older brother since their original release in 1946 (20 years after Hans Wilsdorf registered the trademark back in 1926).
Although many of their designs are heavily inspired by the folks at Rolex, they usually have some slight variances to keep things interesting. This is definitely the case with one of their most popular utilizations of the California dial.
The Tudor Prince Date-Day California dial, ref. 76200, is reminiscent of a few different Rolex models. The functionality and name are heavily inspired by the Rolex Day-Date. The Dial pulls from the Viceroy model we mentioned earlier while having a cleaner and sportier appearance with the Mercedes handset.
This watch is powered by an off-the-shelf ETA 2834-2 movement in true Tudor spirit. If you are looking for a watch that embodies the true purpose of Tudor, as seen by Hans Wilsdorf, the Tudor Prince Date Day with California dial for roughly $3000-$5000 is a great option to consider.
Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: a 47mm stainless steel case Panerai Radiomir with a manual winding movement and a clean California dial on a black dial. Without a doubt, Panerai is not a brand known for producing wild designs aimed at wowing us year after year.
If you think Rolex is boring and moves at a glacial speed, you haven’t seen anything yet. Like all great collector items, the devil is in the details, and this next model from Panerai is no different.
The Panerai Radiomir California 3-day, ref. PAM00448, is cosmetically very similar to the other Panerai watches on this list. However, what separates this watch from the pack is on the inside. The P.3000 movement by Panerai features a 3-day power reserve to add functionality to the simple design.
The movement is beautifully finished to match the aesthetic to the functionality that the added power reserve provides. If you are looking for the timeless Panerai design with a beautiful and functional movement to match, the PAM00448 from Panerai for $7500-$8500 is a great watch to consider.
If you love the idea of a California dial but can’t quite get behind the idea of a vintage-inspired timepiece, Nomos Glashütte has your back. Nomos is a relatively new brand, dating back to 1990, but they have made a tremendous impact since their introduction.
Known best for their modern take on the Bauhaus design, Nomos has taken the California dial and modernized it in a way only Nomos can do. The Nomos Club Campus is the entry point into the brand. They have several color iterations, case sizes, and material options to allow you to really pick the watch that fits your needs and personal style.
My favorite feature of this watch is its unique take on a California dial by switching the orientation of Arabic and Roman numerals from the traditional options available. It is choices like this that give Nomos their fun identity and help differentiate them from other brands available today. Starting at $1500, the Nomos Club Campus is some of the most fun you can have in this hobby, whether you want a California dial or not.
As mentioned earlier, Panerai is going to be featured a few times on this list. If you like what Panerai did with the PAM00448 but wish they leaned even heavier into the vintage aesthetic, this watch might be exactly what you were looking for. The Panerai Radiomir California, ref. PAM00931, shares many similarities with the previously mentioned PAM00448.
The 47mm stainless steel case, wire lugs, and P.3000 Hand winding movement with a 3-day power reserve are consistent between these two models. Even the simple, clean layout and California dial remain virtually identical between the two models. The difference here is in the color of the dial and the feeling it evokes.
While the PAM00448 features a traditional black dial, the PAM00931 sports a honey-colored fume dial that gives the appearance of a dial that has been exposed to the elements for decades.
The watches are very similar, but the feeling they evoke is completely different. If you are looking to spend roughly $6000-$7000 on a California dial watch and want something that leans heavily into vintage inspiration, this watch might be for you.
There is no shortage of Micro or Independent brands on the market today for watch enthusiasts. Several of these brands were conceived by savvy entrepreneurs eager to capitalize on the growing market. Some of these brands were started by passionate enthusiasts.
However, few of these brands were created by as passionate enthusiasts as Richard Paige. Richard Paige is a 4th generation watchmaker and founder of Timezone.com. Yes, the watch forum that changed the way enthusiasts engage with one another.
The RPaige Barrage is a limited edition of 50 watches featuring a 44mm stainless steel case and Panerai-inspired black dial with aged radium California dial. What separates these watches from others in the market is their use of repurposed pocket watch movements housed with new cases and dials. This model features either a 15 or 17-jewel Waltham or Elgin American pocket watch movement.
For anyone lucky enough to have seen one of these movements in person, the amount of finishing and detail on these antique rivals that of almost any current Swiss movement in production today. Coming in at a price of $2400, the RPaige Barrage is a timeless design with a unique value proposition that you simply can’t get from the big boys in this space.
I know, another Panerai! Hear me out; this one is completely different! As much as I love the vintage appeal of the Panerai Radiomir, this next model utilizes the more modern Luminor case and is my favorite of the bunch. The Panerai Luminor California 8-day, ref. PAM00779 features a hefty 44mm case size made of DLC-coated titanium to help with the everyday wearability of this piece.
The Luminor case shape is more closely associated with Panerai and helps to give the watch a robust and masculine look. This watch features the enhanced P.5000 hand-wound mechanical movement providing an impressive 8-day power reserve.
The classic black dial and aged radium California dial and handset provide a familiar vintage aesthetic to help offset the modernity of the case. If you are looking for a modern interpretation of a California dial from the brand most synonymous with the look, the PAM00779 Luminor for roughly $8500 is a great option to consider.
9. Ralf Tech Academie California Bronze
The worlds of professional diving and watchmaking are often intertwined. You’d be hard-pressed to find a watch enthusiast who doesn’t appreciate the functionality of a good dive watch, regardless of whether or not they would ever use it to its full potential. Ralf Tech is a great example of this intertwining.
Originally founded in 1996, producing diving equipment for professionals, Ralf Tech began to focus much of its attention on watchmaking in 2003, ultimately leading to this being their sole product line in 2008. Since then, Ralf Tech has been bringing some of the most robust watches available, even venturing beyond the comforts of dive watches.
The Ralf Tech Acadamie is a 41mm case manufactured out of bronze. This unique case material will age over time and give your timepiece a unique appearance mere months after removing the stickers. This look is not for everyone, but given the vintage aesthetic of the California dial and gilt lettering with aged radium-colored lume, this watch will look more at home once the shine dulls a little bit.
The Academie range is powered by an automatic mechanical movement and comes paired with a vintage-styled leather strap. If you are looking for a new California dial watch that will age with you, the Ralf Tech Academie California in bronze for roughly $2400 is a watch you should strongly consider.
Serica is a Microbrand that has taken the watch world by storm. Since its inception in 2019, Serica watches have been recognized for their incredible quality, unique designs, and affordable pricing. In many ways, these three features are the blueprint that any Microbrand should follow if they are aiming to be successful. Even with all 3 of these qualities, very few brands will skyrocket as quickly as Serica.
The Serica 4512 with a California dial features a very wearable 38mm stainless steel case with a straight-end link Bonklip bracelet. The lacquered black dial and California dial bypass the commonly used aged luminova for a crisp white giving the appearance of a watch from the 1950s that found a way to evade aging for the last 70 years.
The broad arrow hand is reminiscent of those found on early Omega Speedmasters while maintaining their own identity. The watch is powered by the STP1-11 Swiss automatic movement, and it’s priced at a very reasonable $615. If you are looking for a quality Microbrand offering a unique design for a fraction of the price of others on this list, the Serica 4512 California is the route I would go.
Conclusion
There you have it, 10 of the best watches to feature a California dial. The California dial will not appeal to everyone, and that’s OK. Our brains spend a tremendous amount of energy trying to put things into defined categories. Safe or dangerous, boy or girl, Arabic or Roman numerals.
These categories can serve us well at times while simultaneously limiting our ability to see in between the lines. If Arabic and Roman numerals can coexist on a watch dial, perhaps there is a world where other categories don’t have to be as set as we previously believed.
There was a time when even the biggest fan of California dials had to do a double-take. Something that falls outside our defined categories can be hard to accept at first, but once you look at it for what it is, the uniqueness is the appeal. After all, a watch dial is just a dial; it doesn’t have to look like all the others to tell the time.
