Author: Jacob Strong

The year was 2020, and the vibes, as we used to say, were far from immaculate. The nation was paralyzed by the unknown while simultaneously infatuated with a man known as the Tiger King. 

As a watch enthusiast, I could hardly be bothered by the chaos of a global pandemic as I had my own crosses to bear (although I did get caught up in the Tiger King craze…..weird times!) I had important research to do! All of a sudden, “What watch would you wear in an apocalypse?” seemed a lot more pressing and a lot less hypothetical.

While searching for the piece that would accompany me through anything, I was immediately interested in a watch that would soon be released and set the watch world into a frenzy. The Seiko SPB143. 

It was far from the first time that Seiko released a reintroduction of their iconic 62MAS design, but it was the one that got it right. I immediately pressed pause on Netflix and did what any self-respecting watch enthusiast would do: I became obsessed!

A few months later, this watch was in my hands, and I was ready to go on some adventures, albeit socially distanced. Was this watch the perfect piece I dreamt it would be? Did I finally achieve Watch Nirvana and find my forever watch? Spoiler alert: No and no. Let’s take a look at this darling of the watch community nearly 4 years later and relive the journey.

About The Seiko SPB143

Before jumping into the recreation, we need to spend a little time appreciating the original. By 1965, many of the dive watches we know and love today were already in existence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster had already solidified themselves as the premier tools for professional divers. 

At the same time, the Zodiac Seawolf, as well as many other Skin diver watches, had carved out their own niche in the recreational side of the growing dive community. 

Seiko introduced their first dive watch, model 62MAS, which provided 150M of water resistance and a 37mm case dimension. The Gray dial and black rotating bezel helped to give this watch a unique look against its black-dialed competitors, but in terms of Seiko Divers, this was a very uniform design. 

It wasn’t until years later that the signature 4 O’Clock crown and cushion cases of the Seiko watches we know today became prevalent. The 62MAS is where it started, and if you are looking for a Seiko dive watch that looks and feels familiar, this is the design you’re after.

Case & Materials

The Seiko SPB143 is a 40.5mm dive watch closely resembling the color scheme of the original 62MAS. The Gray dial and 120-click black steel bezel help to give this watch a neutral color scheme that, outside of a formal event, never feels out of place. The look and dimension of this watch are what set it apart from previous iterations.

4 years ago, a modestly sized Seiko dive watch was a bit of a unicorn, especially at 13.2mm thick and 47mm lug to lug. Although slightly behind the trend of competitors like Tudor, this is the watch that opened up the likes of other small wrist-friendly watches, such as the SPB313.

Movement

The movement of the SPB series of watches is the Seiko 6R35, an In-House movement featuring a 70-hour power reserve and a surprisingly wide range of acceptable daily variance at -15/+25 seconds per day. 

I have owned several Seiko watches featuring this movement, and my feelings are somewhat mixed. If you are coming from a Sellita or ETA comparable movement, the accuracy will feel like a bit of a disappointment. What you lose in accuracy, however, you more than make up for in robustness. 

This movement is the epitome of a workhorse and will more than likely outlive you with even the slightest of care. Given the apocalyptic scenario, this criteria seemed far more important than a few seconds of accuracy at the time.

Dial

Adorning this watch, you will see Seiko’s legendary LumiBrite lume and dial finishing much more fitting of a watch 2x or 3x the price. The polished indexes are accented by baton-style hands featuring both mirrored and brushed finishes. The case finishing feels more industrial than something like what you would find with a Black Bay from Tudor. 

The Diashield coating provides an extra layer of protection, ensuring that, unlike the Black Bay, this Seiko will look this great 6 months or even 6 years down the line. The 200M of water resistance and date, either with or without lume plot given the year of production, ensure that you have an ISO-Certified dive watch capable of far more than 99.9% of us will ever throw at it.

Strap Options

The watch was originally sold with a solid stainless steel bracelet featuring the Diashield coating and a large diver’s extension. Combine this with the fact that the bracelet hardly tapered and had a very slight gap where the end link met the lugs, and I’d say this is where Seiko took a slight shortcut. This bracelet is usable and certainly better than anything you’d see on a Seiko dive watch from 5 previous, but it fell kind of flat for a $1,200 watch. 

Thankfully, this can be easily remedied with a cheap spring bar tool and one of the thousands of great NATO, rubber, or even leather straps (I’m not judging….just kidding, of course, I am judging). There are even several third-party bracelets with fitted end links that, although the color will be ever so slightly lighter, thanks to the lack of Diashield, fix a lot of the concerns with the OEM bracelet.

The Seiko SPB143 is a watch that I feel everyone needs to try. Is it perfect? Far from it. But will it make you question whether or not you need to spend more on a watch? I think it will. The level of watch sickness you find yourself inflicted with will determine if that feeling is fleeting or not. 

If you are looking for a tool watch that will be there through thick and thin and become a partner in your everyday adventures, the SPB143 will be hard to beat. If you are looking for a watch to help substitute the desire for another watch you have had your eye on, this will more than likely fall short of those expectations (in all honesty, even the watch you have had your eye on will fail to meet the unrealistic expectations we often put on them).

Should You Buy A Seiko SPB143?

Let’s pick back up with my story. Tiger King has been resumed, and I am back living my day-to-day life, albeit with a face mask and a newfound case of paranoia anytime someone comes near me. 

The Seiko SPB143 is accompanying me on most of my adventures (hiking, kayaking, biking, day drinking, all of the hobbies I excelled in during the pandemic), and for the most part, I was happy. If you keep this watch on your wrist and forget about it, it’s hard not to love. 

Unfortunately, this is where my story takes a turn from the happily-ever-after I expected. I found a new watch. This new watch had a better movement, slimmer proportions, a significantly better bracelet, and its own 2020 hype moment. 

That watch is, of course, the Black Bay 58 with the new blue dial. I foolishly thought that there was a world in which both of these beautiful dive watches could exist in my 3-watch collection. As it turns out I was wrong. 

I found myself favoring the Tudor for most of my adventures, and my one prized Seiko suddenly started collecting dust. Maybe it was the 3x price of the Tudor that made me feel as though I had to wear it, or perhaps it was just the fact that it solved many of the minor faults I found in the SPB143. Either way, a few short days later, I no longer owned what I once considered the perfect Seiko.

So, if it wasn’t for me, who exactly is the Seiko SPB143 for? This watch is an incredible option for someone looking for a watch with which to experience life. If the adventure is more important than the watch’s accuracy on your wrist while you do it, then you’ll love the watch’s robustness. As much as I wanted to be this type of enthusiast, I simply fell short. 

Seiko SPB143 Alternatives

When it was released in 2020, the SPB143 was a game changer. Its modest but thoughtfully considered design made the case and dial feel premium for a watch of $1,200. There was almost no competition or alternatives to consider. A lot has changed in four years. 

Japanese rival Citizen has introduced their own compact and robust dive watches, while the Swiss have managed to produce some great affordable alternatives thanks to the power of the Swatch group. As it turns out however, the Seiko SPB143’s greatest competition comes from within in the form of other Seiko dive watches.

Seiko Prospex SPB421 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation U.S Special Edition

In watch enthusiast circles, Seiko is known for doing 2 things extraordinarily well. First is creating stunning watch dials at affordable prices, and the second is releasing limited edition watches. Thankfully, with the SPB421, Seiko leans into both of their strengths to deliver a watch that is fundamentally the same as the SPB143, yet so different. 

The textured blue dial was designed to pay homage to the icy surface of the Alaska Moulins, which may or may not make you feel a certain way. If the creative marketing team at Seiko doesn’t have you sold, the Grand Seiko inspired textured blue dial certainly will!

Seiko Prospex SPB423 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation U.S Special Edition

Blue not your color? The Seiko SPB423 delivers the same functionality as the Seiko SPB143, with the dial texture of the previously mentioned SPB421, but delivers it in a stunning light to dark gray gradient dial.  If you love the functionality of the SPB143 but want a dial that provides a more interesting finish while still remaining neutral, this may be the version you are after.

Seiko Prospex SPB453 1965 Heritage Diver’s

In 2024, Seiko did something that very few watch enthusiasts saw coming. They provided a refresh to the 62MAS reintroduction of their Prospex line. The new SPB453 is very similar to the SPB143 line while sporting a more discrete 4:30 date window and a traditional black dial and bezel combo. The case is slightly reduced down to 40mm, while the lugs are slightly shorter, and the thickness is dropped down to 13mm. You’d be hard-pressed to pick the two apart in a lineup. That is, of course, until you slap the watch on. 

The stock bracelet, while not perfect, is a significant update and solves many of the minor annoyances with the original. If you are in the market for a Seiko SPB143 but want the most current spec with a refined execution, the SPB453 is an excellent option.

Seiko Prospex SPB455 Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary 1965 Heritage Diver’s Special Edition

Thanks to Seiko’s unwavering commitment to provide a dive watch for every watch enthusiast regardless of their personal style preference, we have the SPB455. This watch carries over all of the refinements of the previously mentioned SPB453 but adds a touch of gilt, and the dial and bezel are slightly muted to a gray charcoal color. There is no doubt that this iteration has its sights set directly on the original Tudor Black Bay 58, and given the price savings, it is certainly a worthy competitor.

Seiko Prospex SJE101 Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation

The Seiko SJE101 Marinemaster is the most interesting 62Mas reintroduction produced today. The refined styling matches more closely to a Rolex Submariner, While the pricing, at roughly $2,800, is a little more than 2x the SPB series and significantly less than anything produced by Rolex or even Tudor for that matter. 

The 6L37 movement powering this watch is a nice improvement from the 6R35 in the SPB143, but the accuracy is still noticeably behind anything produced by Hans Wilsdorf and company. If you look past the accuracy of the movement, this watch may be the biggest sleeper entry-level luxury watch on the market today!

Conclusion

So, there you have it! A long-winded recap of my adventure-ready watch, along with a few alternatives that certainly would have piqued my interest if they were around in 2020. The SPB143 is still a watch that I would recommend to any watch enthusiast. It is uncomplicated and really good at what it aims to be good at. 

The details that pushed me away from Seiko and into the arms of their Swiss rivals are trivial to most people, especially those with more sense than money. Thanks to my unnecessary Tudor upgrade, I have proven myself to no longer have either of those!

Happy watch hunting!

With all of the bells and whistles watch enthusiasts have become accustomed to over the years, it’s easy to overlook the fact that some watches really were designed simply as tools. In reality, the beautifully finished cases and in-house movements we all drool over are as superfluous as any grand complication when it comes to actually telling the time.

Thankfully, we are spoiled for choice and free to choose our own adventure when it comes to watch collecting. There is one brand, though, that manages to offer many of these more luxurious features at a price that won’t make you think twice about actually using it as a tool. That brand is Seiko.

When it comes to a product range, you’d be hard-pressed not to find something in almost any category or price range from Seiko. Whether you are looking for an impeccably finished tourbillion in the form of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force or an everyday beater suitable for any enthusiast in the 5kx line, Seiko has you covered. Despite the wide range of Seiko’s current offerings, their bread and butter is still value-packed dive watches.

There was a time, not that long ago when these affordable dive watches packed even more of a punch. One great example of exactly what Seiko was, and currently still is, capable of producing is the Seiko Samurai. Let’s take a deep dive into this watch and see what makes it so special and such a unique option in the Seiko product range.

History of the Seiko Samurai

The early 2000s represented the peak of value for money for many of Seiko’s dive watches. Their ability to produce high-quality watches at scale (and forget to account for inflation or relative comps) allowed Seiko to be the true king of value around this time.

In 2004, Seiko released a new watch design, one that would continue to provide exceptional value for money, with a unique case shape and robust 7S25 In-House movement. This watch was the SBDA001. A titanium watch featuring a brutalist design with sharp angles that helped to give this watch a unique aesthetic among the Seiko collection.

As you might have guessed, this watch would later become known as the Seiko Samurai. The nickname came to fruition from enthusiasts (we’re the best at naming timepieces) and was based on the shape of the first-generation hands. Their pointed shape shared a resemblance to the ancient swords used by Samurai, albeit straight, as opposed to the traditional curved shape of a Samurai sword.

Although modern examples of this watch feature an updated large arrow handset, the Samurai name continues to represent this model. Some will argue that the case shape still resembles the traditional armor of a Samurai, therefore justifying its nickname, but I am not fully sold on that comparison. Either way, it’s a great nickname and isn’t going anywhere.

About the Seiko Samurai

Given Seiko’s wide range of entry-level professional divers, you’d be excused for not knowing what separates the Samurai from other options in the line-up, such as the Turtle or the Monster. The Seiko Samurai shares many similar features with these models but also has some stark differences that help to differentiate it.

For starters, this watch has a very modern appearance. Gone are the soft curves of the Turtle and 5KX that were influenced by decades of previous models. The Samurai features sharp downward-sloping angles at the lugs and a trapezoidal profile. The watch is accented by a gnarled crown and bezel that help increase grip and add to the modern design aesthetic.

The Seiko Samurai is a big watch, given the larger case diameter of 42-44mm and 3 O’clock crown placement. Because of the unique case shape, the Samurai wears larger than even the 45mm Seiko Turtle. Depending on the model, these watches are made of titanium or stainless steel, feature Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal or Sapphire crystal, and have either ceramic or aluminum bezel inserts.

Regardless of the many options available in the lineup, every Seiko Samurai will be an ISO 6425 certified Dive Watch rated to 200m of water resistance.

Seiko Samurai vs. Seiko Turtle: How Do They Compare?

The Prospex watch line has made bold and innovative design choices to boost Seiko’s diver catalog. Both the Samurai and the Seiko turtle are a part of this prestigious family, but how does one compare against the other? Given that both of these watches come from the same family, the differences are minor, but with that being said, when looking at them side by side, the Samurai carries a very modern edge that sets it apart from the Turtle.

The Samurai case is stylish and angular, and the dial hands carry an industrial flare. The Turtle follows a more classic approach, with its thick, turtle-shell-shaped case holding most of the weight and being the feature that is most likely to attract your eye.

The watches measure the exact same, but the Turtle seems to have a larger presence on the wrist, which will either deter or attract certain wearers based on their preferences. Personally, I like the style of the Samurai a little bit better, but the Turtle is not without its appeal, and being that these watches are both so similar and share so many traits that siblings often do, if you’re a fan of one you will most likely be a fan of the other.

Is the Seiko Samurai Worth Buying?

Based on everything we know about the Seiko Samurai, the question of whether you should buy one or not will really come down to you. To be clear, I think that every watch enthusiast should own at least 1 Seiko dive watch. That is not exactly the question, however. Whether or not this is the model line worth buying for you will depend upon a few different criteria.

Wrist Size

First is your wrist size. As mentioned earlier, 44mm for the current model range is a huge watch by today’s standards. The distinct case shape does not allow Seiko to use their usual magic to make a watch wear 3 to 4 millimeters smaller either. You need to have a larger-than-average wrist circumference or really like how a large watch feels and looks to wear this watch regularly.

Budget

The second factor is budget. The standard model Seiko Samurai, SRPB51, retails for roughly $525. That puts this watch in a unique place. It’s more expensive than 5KX of dive-inspired watches but quite a bit lower than watches in the SPB line. If your budget falls right in that $500-$600 range, you can’t do much better.

On the other hand, if you could afford to stretch to the SPB line, there are some very compelling options within that lineup that offer more refinement for your money. If you like to collect watches, rare Limited-Editions, and pseudo-vintage models and don’t mind spending the SPB level $800-$1200, however, the Seiko Samurai can provide something the current SPB line cannot, history and rarity.

The Best Seiko Samurai References

Assuming that your wrist is up to the challenge and that the Seiko Samurai price range coincides with your budget, I feel this watch is worth your hard-earned money. There are many different options that you can look at. Pre-owned earlier generation models, Limited-Editions, standard product models, and even “King Samurai” options can help you narrow down to exactly which watch is right for you. Let’s take a look at 8 examples of Seiko Samurai watches that are absolutely worth your money!

Seiko SBDA001

It only makes sense to start this list at the very beginning. The SBDA0001 is the original Seiko Samurai. The watch featured a more compact 42mm case size housed in lightweight titanium. As mentioned earlier, the handset on these first-generation models was shaped like a Samurai sword, ultimately leading to their enthusiast-given namesake.

The dial features a charcoal gray color reminiscent of the original dive watch Seiko produced, known as the 62MAS. The gray and black aluminum bezel insert helps modernize the appearance of the otherwise classic dial. These first-generation models were powered by the 7s25 movement, which made hacking and hand-winning impossible for these original models.

The mechanical upgrades to the modern Seiko Samurais are certainly a welcomed addition, but there is so much that Seiko got right with these original models. The slightly smaller 42mm case housed in titanium would send shockwaves amongst the Seiko enthusiast community if reintroduced today.

Although bordering on vintage these days, you can still find these models pre-owned for roughly $800-$1000. There is a significant premium for this watch over its original MSRP, but being the first of an iconic model still in production will have that effect.

Seiko SNM021

Another watch from the first generation, the SNM021, known as the Orange “Ninja” Samurai, gives a unique perspective on this already distinct watch. One main change from the standard production is that this case is constructed from stainless steel.

I am not in love with that decision, but it does help to differentiate it from the standard production model. In addition, the standard black and gray color combo is replaced by a vivid orange dial and gray bezel with red accents. With this watch being an international-only release, pre-owned examples are quite hard to come by. When they do pop up, you can expect to pay roughly $800-$1200, depending on the condition.

The following 4 examples come from the second generation of Seiko Samurai models introduced in 2017. These models benefit from an upgraded movement in the 4R35, allowing for hacking and hand-winding. In addition to this change, these models’ cases have been bumped up to 43.8mm and are all made of stainless steel. The Sword-style handset has also been “upgraded” to the large arrow-style hand many associate with the Seiko Monster.

Seiko Prospex SRPB51

The SRPB51 is the standard issue black waffle dial. This unique dial texture helps to give this watch additional visual interest while remaining very neutral. The gray and black aluminum bezel insert from the SBDA001 remains largely untouched and compliments this watch nicely.

The Seconds hand features a red tip, which helps break up the monochromatic color scheme on the dial and bezel. The SRPB51 is still readily available at many retailers at an MSRP of $525. Given that this watch has been around for a few years, there is an opportunity to save even more if you are willing to take a chance on the preowned market.

Seiko Prospex SRPB09

One of the most popular models to come out of the second generation of Seiko Samurais is that of the SRPB09, known as the Blue Lagoon. The deep blue sunray dial with accenting light and darker blue bezel are the highlights of this watch and share responsibility for the affectionate nickname of the Blue Lagoon.

The dial and handset also feature bright yellow pops, a color combination you don’t often see. This 6000-piece Limited Edition watch is no longer available at MSRP but can still be found on the grey market for $800-$1200.

Seiko Prospex SRPD13

The “Zimbe” edition of Seiko watches are often some of the most sought-after and collectible Limited Editions available. One of their more reserved variations comes in the form of the 1300-piece Limited Edition SRPD13. This watch features a very similar dial and handset to what can be found on the SPB143, with well-placed accents of red.

The seconds-hand is entirely red, while the bezel consists of both red and gray to compliment the aesthetic. The more subtle handset and pops of color make this watch my personal favorite on the entire list. With the smaller production size, this watch will be a little bit harder to source. If you are patient, however, pricing should be similar to the Blue Lagoon at $800-$1200.

Seiko Prospex SRPB99 PADI

Another common collaboration amongst Seiko dive watches is with PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. The SRPB99 PADI Special Edition draws inspiration from several other iconic watches while creating a truly unique Seiko Samurai.

The watch features a black wave dial reminiscent of the 90’s Omega Seamaster and a Pepsi bezel colorway. Combine these with the PADI logo on the dial, and it is very clear that this watch knows its audience. The PADI Special Edition watch represents a great value coming in at roughly $500 to $600.

The last two entries to this list are part of the third and latest generation of Seiko Samurai watches. These have become known as the “King Samurai” as they feature some elevated specifications across the board. These new models now feature ceramic bezel inserts as well as sapphire crystals with a “universally loved” date cyclops.

Seiko Prospex SRPE37

One of the most unique dial options available for a Seiko dive watch is a white dial. Combine this with a unique texture, like the waffle pattern, and you have something sure to stand out from the black and blue colorways crowd. The SRPE37 gives us exactly this colorway and is a call back to some of the most sought-after versions of their earliest models.

With this watch still being a standard version of a timepiece still in production, there are several avenues for acquiring this timepiece. Coming in at an MSRP of $595, this watch offers tremendous value considering the elevated specification that you see with this third generation. If you are willing to let someone else put the first few scratches on it, this watch it can be picked up for even less.

Seiko Prospex SRPH97

The final watch on our list today is a recently released 8000-piece Limited Edition SRPH97. This watch features a blackened stainless steel case and a black ceramic bezel. Complimenting this blacked-out aesthetic is a minty green-colored lume for the hands, indices, and bezel pip.

The color combination offers a unique look on a blacked-out watch and works very well together. There is a slight price premium for this edition with an MSRP of $675, but given the unique look of this timepiece, the price seems completely justified.

Final Thoughts

Given that the Seiko Samurai is one of Seiko’s newest iconic model lines, it’s surprising how many models exist and how much history there is. Admittedly, it’s not a model I have much experience with, given my slender chicken wrists. I really appreciate what Seiko did and has continued to do with this model.

With almost every watch manufacturer peering into the past when designing their dive watches, Seiko is creating this watch for the present. They have several other models that can help scratch the vintage-inspired itch, but this watch makes a choice to fit the modern aesthetic.

Where I would typically beg for a 38-40mm version of a watch I like but is too big for me, I am going to choose to withhold that request. This watch should continue to speak to people with modern tastes rather than try to please everyone.

The beauty of Seiko is that no matter what you like, there is a watch for you. It may not be the perfect watch, but it can be perfect for you. The Seiko Samurai isn’t the one for me, but it may be exactly what you’re looking for!

Happy watch hunting!