25 BEST Seiko Automatic Watches Across ALL Collections (2024)
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Best Seiko Automatic Watches

25 BEST Seiko Automatic Watches Across ALL Collections (2024)

The word “Seiko” in Japanese can be translated in a few different ways: “success”, “achievement”, and “exquisite”, being the most common. Selecting such a word for a brand moniker signals an air of greatness and high ideals to the world.

Indeed, to choose such a name is a commitment to a standard above the rest and a commitment to push the envelope ever forward. Founded by Kintaro Hattori in 1881, it’s no exaggeration to state that Seiko has a long and storied history eclipsing most watch brands the world over.

In their over 140-year history, from humble beginnings producing wall clocks to nearly decimating the Swiss watch industry during the infamous quartz crisis of the late 1960s and 70s, few other brands can claim such influence. 

Today, Seiko wristwatches continue to be available across a range of price points, from entry-level to high luxury, and with movements as diverse as mechanical, solar, and Spring Drive. In this article, we’ll explore Seiko’s automatic movement watches in the Seiko 5, Prospex, and Presage lines.  

A Brief History of Mechanical Seiko Watches:

While more commonly associated with battery-powered quartz watches today, quartz only entered the picture for the brand long after Seiko achieved many accomplishments in mechanical watchmaking. It was in 1895 when Seikosha (“sha” meaning “house”) made the first pocket watch in Japan (the “Time Keeper”).

  • In 1913, releasing its first wristwatch (the “Laurel”)
  • In 1929, when its “Railway Watch” was appointed the official timekeeping device of the Japanese National Railway (an application in which accurate timekeeping is critical to avoid accidents) 
  • In 1956, with the introduction of the shock-resisting device “Diashock” 
  • In 1959, with the debut of the “magic lever” system, a low-cost mechanism and solution for self-winding still widely in use in watches today

Notably, in 1964 Seiko served as the official timer of the Tokyo Olympics, providing 1,278 timing devices purpose-built for accurate timing for all sports. From 1963 the year prior, Seiko entered into the Neuchatel chronometer competition (among Swiss brands such as Omega and Zenith, etc.). 

By 1967, the final year of competition, Seiko earned second and third place. In 1968, Seiko entered the Geneva Observatory competitions, resulting in awards in every place from fourth to tenth, an all-time record for mechanical movements. The top three positions? All quartz models submitted by the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH).

Seiko effectively created the best-performing mechanical movements ever recorded. Finally, in 1969, Seiko introduced the caliber 6139, the world’s first automatic chronograph watch equipped with both a vertical clutch and column wheel, demonstrating a new milestone in chronograph technology. 

About Seiko Automatic Watches:

Before the advent of automatic movements, mechanical watches required manual crown winding. To put it simply, watches are driven by a mainspring (wound via the crown) which stores force and then transmits it through a series of gears to power a balance wheel that oscillates back and forth.

The escapement then keeps the balance wheel in motion by pushing with each swing and allows the gears to “escape” (advance) a set amount, moving the hands around the dial. 

“Automatic” movements don’t require winding. Instead, the mainspring is wound via the natural day-to-day movements of the wrist, with energy created from a weighted rotor spinning around inside with each move. 

When Seiko introduced the “magic lever” in 1959, the efficiency of the winding system was improved further by shortening the winding period and allowing for a longer power reserve, all while requiring much fewer parts than the traditional Swiss-style winding systems of the time.  

What to Look For in Seiko Automatic Watches

Today, Seiko’s mechanical heritage’s historic and technical achievements still inform their product line in all ranges. For example, Diashock can be found in certain sports-driven models, while the magic lever is present across the majority of the portfolio.

In order to best pick which watch suits your lifestyle and aesthetic preferences, it’s important to consider your needs. In particular, Seiko presents three lineups of interest with various styles at increasing price points: the Seiko 5, Prospex, and Presage lines.

Best Seiko 5 Automatic Watches

The Seiko 5 Sports line was created in 1968 to provide affordable watches to the masses who increasingly require robust and reliable daily performance. The “5” tenets are the following: an automatic movement, a day-date display at the 3:00 position, water resistance, a recessed crown at the 4:00 position, and a durable case and bracelet. 

In 2019, the line was reborn with fresh new designs while still encompassing the principles established over 50 years ago. Who are they for? A Seiko 5 is the perfect option for anyone looking to get into watches at an affordable price point or those with established collections looking to “scratch the itch”. No matter where you lean, these are fun, reliable watches that will get the job done, priced between $100 to $600.

1. Seiko SNKL23

Seiko SNKL23

A solid, reliable mechanical automatic watch for around $100? Yes, it’s possible. Infamously labeled “A Seventy-Five Dollar Watch That Looks Like A Million Bucks” (2015 pricing*) in a Hodinkee Value Proposition article, the SNKL23 has an inoffensive, classic look.

Black dialed with a 38mm diameter case, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 10.5mm thickness, this Seiko 5 can be dressed up or down and will wear comfortably on most wrists along the size spectrum given its agreeable size and clean styling. 

Inside is the in-house caliber 7S26 featuring the magic lever winding system, a movement known to last years (if not decades) and can be easily repaired given the millions of parts likely out there.

Retail Price: $100-$120

2. Seiko SRPG29

Seiko SRPG29

Mention “Seiko 5”, and two types of watches will likely come to mind: that of the traditional sports watch form like the SNKL23 above and that of the quintessential Seiko 5 “field watch”. When Seiko relaunched the “5” sports line a few years back, it took the old “SNZG” field watch references of yore and made them a bit smaller at a new 39.4mm diameter case.

Back with the SPRG line are all the familiar hallmarks of the last generations: Arabic numerals from 1 to 12 encircling the dial, with 24-hour clock conversions accompanying an inner circle around the dial. 

While variations within the SRPG include the watch on a bracelet and NATO strap, the SRPG29, in particular, comes on a versatile oyster-like bracelet that can be swapped out with ease due to the watch’s drilled lug holes. A solid blue-dialed field watch that could fit easily within anyone’s watch collection.

Retail Price: $175

3. Seiko SRPD55

Seiko SRPD55

For years, it was rumored that the golden standard of Seiko dive watches (the SKX007 and 009, colloquially referred to as the “SKX” line) would be discontinued. In 2019, it finally happened. In its wake, Seiko launched a new Seiko 5 sports line (in particular, the “SKX Sports Style”), widely using the SKX’s former case shape, a well-known quotient in the watch community when communicating the size and fit (it’s that popular).

Still coming in at 42.5mm in diameter with a 13.4mm thickness and 46mm lug-to-lug, the SRPD55 wears exactly as the SKX. If you’ve tried one on before, you’ll know exactly how the new Seiko 5 version wears. However, gone now are two important features in a screw-down crown and a lower water resistance rating (100m against the SKX’s 200m).

Can the SRPD55 still be considered a “dive watch”? The community is still fractured on the answer, but neither party can deny that the infamous SKX case shape and styling is still a force to be reckoned with and a true modern classic.

Retail Price: $295

4. Seiko SRPD71

Seiko SRPD71

When Seiko decided to refresh the Seiko 5 line using the classic case shape of the SKX007/009, it opened the door to more creative and stylistic variations. In theory, the SRPD71, with its blue dial and tan hands and indices, coupled with a steel mesh bracelet, fits within the “Suits” style of SKX-cased watches.

The all-familiar 42.5mm diameter SKX case takes the mesh bracelet well. Really, it’s a strap monster in any configuration, but the mesh does lend a more formal look. Is it passe to wear a dive-style watch with a suit? Only the wearer can decide, but if it works for James Bond (ex: Omega Seamaster “No Time To Die” also comes on a mesh bracelet), it might just work for you!

Retail Price: $350

5. Seiko SRPE55

Seiko SRPE55

In the decades since its original launch in 1996, watch aficionados wished for an SKX-styled watch in a smaller diameter than the standard 42.5mm. In 2020, they finally got their wish. Clocking in with a 40mm diameter, 11.5mm thickness, and versatile 44.6mm lug-to-lug, the four o’clock crown and classic SKX style dial layout and indices will be a familiar sight for most.

However, the biggest departure from the SKX will be the obvious lack of a rotating bezel, replaced with a smooth bezel encircling the dial. But make no mistake, the SRPE55 is still rated to 100m of water resistance and is powered by the venerable and reliant 4R36 movement, providing approximately 41 hours of power reserve.

If you’ve been looking at a Tudor Black Bay 41 with a black dial and smooth bezel but aren’t quite sure it’s worth the jump in price, the SRPE55 is a perfect alternative to scratch the itch or test the waters as your newest all-around, go anywhere do anything sports watch.

Retail Price: $275

6. Seiko SSK001

Seiko SSK001

What a time to be a Seiko fan. For years, a Seiko dive-style watch with a functioning GMT hand and 24-hour bezel was a pipe dream, achieved only through heavy modification of the standard SKX007/009 (admittedly, there hasn’t been a good option for a GMT movement to swap in.

A 24-hour bezel was the only choice). Fast forward to 2022, and fans were presented with the SSK line of GMT watches fitted within the fan-favorite SKX case. If you’ve worn an SKX, you already know the 42.5mm diameter sizing.

The real story is the addition of the caliber 4R34 GMT movement. As a “caller” GMT, the GMT hand (colored in a highly visible red) is independently set, as opposed to a “flyer” GMT where the hour hand is adjusted via the crown. A GMT watch under $500 would’ve been unheard of before the SSK line. If you’re looking for an affordable option with true GMT capability, look no further.

Retail Price: $475

Best Seiko Prospex Automatic Watches

Though Seiko attributes its first sports watches to lines released in 1959, the “Prospex” (short for “Professional Specifications”) range today is a culmination of the legacy and knowledge built in the decades since. The modern Prospex line includes models for sea, air, and land, including iconic case designs honoring the past while pushing technology and precision into the future with modern movements and materials. 

Whether you’re looking for a robust dive watch to accompany your next dive, a GMT to help guide you as you travel across time zones, a field watch for your next hike, or a chronograph to time that steak on the grill (not all of us are race car drivers after all), a Seiko Prospex watch is the perfect companion. Prices range from under $600 to $7000.

7. Seiko SRPF03 “Samurai”

Seiko SRPF03 “Samurai”

When it first launched in 2004 with its swordlike hands and sharp angled off facets, the original Seiko “Samurai” quickly earned its nickname among enthusiasts who were impressed with the level of quality and finishing for such an affordable price (the use of lightweight titanium didn’t hurt either, though the model is now found in steel). 

Now a few generations removed, the SRPF03 carries the “Samurai” name into the 2020s, holding on to its iconic faceted case at a not insignificant 44mm diameter. Despite the case size, 13.4mm thickness, and 48.7mm lug-to-lug, the Samurai tends to wear smaller than the measurements imply, working the typical Seiko magic with downturned lugs that drape comfortably over the wrist. As part of the Prospex line, this is a true diver’s watch meeting ISO 6425 certification. 

Retail Price: $525  

8. Seiko SRPE99 “Turtle”

Seiko SRPE99 “Turtle”

Seiko’s history of affordable, rugged, and reliable dive watches is packed with iconic, storied models. One such model, the 6309 (and its -7000 and -7040 variants), was launched in 1976 as the “third” main divers watch, with production lasting into the 1980s.

A true tool watch in the purest sense, at a time when wearers pushed their timepieces to their fullest potential, the 6309 is documented as having been adopted by a diverse body of consumers: Everyone from the military, dive boat crews, US Coast Guard, and even Antarctic Expedition teams all had Seiko 6309 watches among their ranks. Even Mick Jagger famously wore one! 

So when in 2016, Seiko relaunched the “Turtle” in near exact dimensions, it was met with great fanfare. The SRPE99, in particular, is a collaboration with the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), and features the PADI logo on an attractive blue dial with “Pepsi” style rotating dive bezel.

And despite the 45mm diameter case size and 13.4mm thickness, the Turtle’s pleasing cushion style case and 47mm lug-to-lug ensure that most wrists can pull off what otherwise sounds like a large watch based on measurements alone. 

Retail Price: $550

9. Seiko SPB101 “Sumo”

Seiko SPB101 “Sumo”

How watches earn nicknames is often urban legend at worst and watch-telling lore at best. The “Sumo” is no exception. Is it the seemingly overboding 45mm diameter that did it? The bezel, which could be likened to a Sumo wrestling ring? Or even the 12 o’clock indice, which could resemble a Sumo wrestler’s top-knot? The world may never know.

But what we do know is that when the Sumo originally launched in 2007 as the SBDC001 (black), SBDC003 (blue), and SBDC005 (orange), it was an instant hit. Now labeled the SPB101 (in black), the latest generation of the Sumo has a few notable upgrades: a new movement (70-hour power reserve caliber 6R35) and a thinner case measuring 12.5mm thick.

The lyre-style twisted lugs are a highlight and present a surprising amount of case finishing for its original price point. With a lug-to-lug distance of 52.6mm, however, this watch may be best suited for wrists sized 6.5 inches and above. Sumo wrestlers need not apply.

Retail Price: $850

10. Seiko SRPH75 “Monster Antarctica” Save The Ocean

Seiko SRPH75 “Monster Antarctica” Save The Ocean

Chances are, you’ve heard of the Seiko “Monster”. If you’re a long-time collector, you might’ve even owned a few Monsters in the past. Whether it was your first dive watch or a sentimental favorite you still hold on to, the Seiko Monster, in all its generations since first launching in 2000, has been a mainstay in the dive watch and overall watch collecting community.

And it’s obvious why: all of that Seiko rugged reliability packaged in an altogether original watch design that isn’t just a riff on the usual Rolex Submariner template. Such designs are few and far between, and with the Monster, named particularly due to its grotesque look and fang-like main index, we have a watch design that is wholly its own, yet to be copied.

The SRPH75, in particular, is among the latest “fourth” generation and is a special edition with a portion of proceeds being donated to ocean-based causes, including underwater education and clean-up initiatives like Dive Against Debris. Should the attractive ice blue dial with 42.4mm diameter case, 49.4mm lug-to-lug, and 13.4mm thickness speak to you, feel good knowing you’re also doing a small part to “Save The Ocean” in your purchase as well.

Retail Price: $525

11. Seiko SRPE03 “King Turtle”

Seiko SRPE03 “King Turtle”

Nicknames don’t always have to make sense but break them apart, and you might glean something from the enthusiast-led labels. Take the “King Turtle”. We’ve introduced the “Turtle” earlier in this guide, with its callbacks to the original 6309 made famous during the 1970s and 80s. But what is a “King” turtle? In this case, the community wanted to impart the notable upgrades over the standard reissued turtle. Upgrades that watch nerds have been asking for for years.

Namely, a ceramic bezel insert and a sapphire crystal. Worthy enough to be king? Up to the user to decide; however, the case dimensions (45mm diameter, 13.2mm thickness, 47.7mm lug-to-lug) and caliber 4R36 with 41-hour power reserve remain otherwise the same. Also updated were a “grippier” bezel with noticeably changed bezel teeth and a cyclops over the day/date window, with an attractive black waffle dial. 

Retail Price: $625

12. Seiko SPB117 Alpinist

Seiko SPB117 Alpinist

As Seiko’s first official sports watch launched in 1959, the Alpinist was a watch created with Japanese mountaineers (“yama-otoko”) in mind. Given the harsh nature of mountain exploration, the watch needed to be resistant to water and impact, which a mountaineer would surely put the watch through its paces.

In a more modern context, the Alpinist design as we know it today was launched in 1995, nicknamed the “Red Alpinist” (due to the red “Alpinist” inscription on the dial). Significantly, the adoption of the now infamous cathedral hands and internal azimuthal rotating bezel for navigation were added at this time.

A few model iterations were launched in the interim before the watch was discontinued in 2017. Finally, in 2020, Seiko announced the production of a resumed seventh-generation Alpinist with an upgraded 70-hour power reserve 6R35 movement, transparent caseback, and magnifying date window.

Still measuring in at 39.5mm in diameter, the SPB117 is a versatile size for most wrists and, given the 200m water resistance, is just as robust as ever for all your mountaineering (or office) needs.

Retail Price: $750

13. Seiko SPB077

Seiko SPB077

In the lexicon of gloried Seiko divers, perhaps the most influential and iconic is the brand’s first-ever “Professional” use dive watch from 1968, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat diver. The 6159 was a decisively forward and innovative watch, built like a tank and a perfect combination of form and function. Known for its chunky 44mm front loader monoblock case (the movement is installed from the front side.

A caseback was deemed a point of potential water ingress) and Hi-Beat movement, the 6159 was a precision tool for Professional use. Though recreations of the 6159 have been made in the past, particularly in the Marinemaster 300 range (ex: SBDX001, SBDX017, etc.), in 2018, Seiko decided to release a modern reinterpretation of the classic design in the SPB077. 

Keeping to the 6159 case design, the SPB077 might actually feel smaller on the wrist than the original, despite its 44mm diameter, 13.1mm thickness, and 50mm lug-to-lug, due to that Seiko case magic. With its arguably more refined looks (smaller, more balanced indices, “Monster” styled hands), the SPB077 is a great addition for anyone looking for the classic 6159 aesthetic, with modern details like a sapphire crystal and Diashield coating. Of note, unlike its source of inspiration, the SPB077 utilizes a screw-down caseback, but is still rated to 200m of water resistance. 

Retail Price: $1,050

14. Seiko SPB143

Seiko SPB143

The SPB143 has become a fan favorite in recent years. Launched in 2020 as a modern reinterpretation of Seiko’s first dive watch, the 1965 62MAS skin diver, the SPB143 is a “Goldilocks” model of specifications: near-perfect size (measuring in at 40.5mm diameter, 13.2mm thickness, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug), classic looks (retaining the skin diver aesthetics of the original 62MAS), and excellent “bang for buck” (finishing and details rivaling competitors at double the retail price). 

Add in all of the modern comforts like a 70-hour power reserve, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and super-hard coating, and it’s no wonder why the SPB143 has become a modern icon in its own right, with Seiko finally providing what fans have been asking for for years. 

Retail Price: $1,200

15. Seiko SLA021

Seiko SLA021

Seiko first released the Marinemaster 300 SBDX001 in 2000. As a modern reinterpretation of the all-time great Seiko diver, the 6159-7000, it stayed true to its source of inspiration with a 44mm monobloc constructed case, higher-end 8L35 movement with 50-hour power reserve (a close cousin of the Grand Seiko 9S55 movement), and a solid tool like construction as a professional diver’s watch capable of saturation diving, impervious to helium gas ingress and egress with a special L-shaped gasket. 

When the Marinemaster 300 was officially brought into the Prospex line as the SLA021, it gained a sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel, upgrades that many had been opening for the model to stay competitive for years.

And despite its large on-paper size (it’s definitely not a small watch), keeping the 44mm case, a new thickness of 15.4mm, and a 50.5mm lug-to-lug, the ratcheting adjustable clasp ensures a comfortable fit on the go, whether your wrist is swelling due to varying temperatures, or for throwing over a diving wetsuit. The standard bearer of Seiko dive watches. The SLA021 is a flagship model for a reason.

Retail Price: $3,100

16. Seiko SRQ037 Speedtimer

Seiko SRQ037 Speedtimer

Launched in 1969, the original Seiko Speedtimer was a milestone release for Seiko, featuring the caliber 6139, one of the world’s first automatic chronographs to market. First, to incorporate both a vertical clutch and column wheel, resulting in a more precise and error-free time instrument than ever possible before, the SRQ037 of today pays homage to the innovations of the brand’s past. 

The caliber 8R46 provides approximately 45 hours of power reserve, with a contemporary case size of 42.5mm diameter, 15.1mm thickness, and 50mm lug-to-lug. The enlarged chronograph actuators on the right-hand side of the watch case evoke the giant plungers of Seiko stopwatches of the past, with functionality at the foremost of mind in Seiko tradition.

While we have yet to see an exact stylistic modern reinterpretation of the 6139, such as the yellow dialed “Pogue” (Seiko’s very own space watch), at the end of the day, the SRQ037 is a solid addition to Seiko’s chronograph lineup.

Retail Price: $3,000

Best Seiko Presage Automatic Watches

With a greater focus on artistry, detail, and overall aesthetic beauty, the Seiko Presage line of automatic watches aims to convey the essence of historic and contemporary Japanese craftsmanship. Enamel, porcelain, lacquer, intricately patterned dials. All are hallmarks of the Presage line. 

This focus on art and design yields watches perfect for the consumer looking to own a unique timepiece on a dressier scale, whether for office wear or formal gatherings. Often combined with higher grade movements such as the caliber 6R35 (with a 70-hour power reserve), Presage watches can be found between $1000 and $4000. 

17. Seiko SRPB43 “Cocktail Time”

Seiko SRPB43 “Cocktail Time”

Originally created in collaboration with famous Japanese bartender and mixologist Ishigaku Shinobu of the Ishinohana Bar in Tokyo, the Seiko “Cocktail Time” series watches included three models exclusively available in Japan. In particular, the SARB065 “Cool” reference was a standout for its ice-cool dial at a time when vibrant and original dials with great finishing in watches under $500 weren’t the norm. 

In 2017, Seiko announced a new series of Cocktail Time watches under the Presage product line, again, with each watch inspired by particular cocktails visually represented via their respective dials. The “Cool” dial returned as the SRPB43, with a 41-hour power reserve caliber 4R35 movement, 40.5mm diameter case, and 11.9mm thickness.

Perhaps on the larger side to be considered a traditional “dress watch” (36-38mm are closer to the norm), the Cocktail Time’s sunburst texture dial is still a conversation starter and would pair brilliantly in any formal social situation when coupled with the right strap. Cheers!

Retail Price: $425

18. Seiko SRPE45

Seiko SRPE45

Similar to the SRPB43 above, the SRPE45 is also inspired by classic cocktails. In this case, the Mojito. And where the ice blue “Cool” dial of the former was upsized to a 40.5mm case, the SRPE45 maintains an excellent dress watch size with its 38.5mm case diameter, 11.8mm thickness, and 45.4mm lug-to-lug. 

But the real star is that green dial: with its concentric diamond pattern radiating out from the center, accentuated with gold-colored Arabic numerals, hands, and indices, this stunner of a watch has a glossy effect reminiscent of looking through a cocktail glass. Trust us; it’s not the alcohol that’s talking. The SRPE45 is a beauty!

Retail Price: $425

19. Seiko SRPG03

Seiko SRPG03

Evoking classic 1960s style, the SRPG03 can be considered a “sporty” dress watch with its fixed 60-minute bezel reminiscent of a traditional dive watch. Along with its dive watch stylings, the watch measures in with a 41mm diameter case, 12.5mm thickness, and 48mm lug-to-lug, decidedly dive watch sizing that could suit most wrists comfortably.

The silver and white sunburst dial with the gold-colored indices and hands are a standout, dressing up the watch to a degree not typically seen with Seiko divers. However, what the SRPG03 achieves in looks, it, unfortunately, lacks in dive watch capability. Given the 50m water resistance and fixed bezel, this isn’t a watch to time your next dive with. Stick to the dive computer or true dive watches for the water. Buy the SRPG03 for the looks!

Retail Price: $525

20. Seiko SPB115

Seiko SPB115

Among the Presage line of watches, Enamel is often used to present beautiful dial variations inspired by Japanese craftsmanship. It’s this blend of traditional craft and modern mechanical beauty that Seiko achieves with the SPB115, inspired by the minimalist 1977 “Steel Clock” designed by Riki Watanabe (1911-2013), renowned in Japan for industrial design and clockworks which became his life passion. 

Replicated in the SPB115 are the iconic straight long stick hour markers, accompanied by shorter minutes and a spade-stye hour hand. The brown enamel dial is not often seen and finished to a wonderful effect, matched with a brown Cordovan leather strap. The watch itself wears modern. 39.9mm in diameter with a 12.4mm thickness and 47.2mm lug-to-lug, and despite its dressier lean, it is rated to 100m water resistance making this a pleasurable daily wearer.  

Retail Price: $1,100

21. Seiko SPB165

Seiko SPB165

Case design has been a hallmark of Seiko sport watches, arguably as far back as Taro Tanaka’s “Grammar of Design” in the Grand Seiko 44GS. And yet, the Presage line hasn’t been known for having a strong case shape or identity, represented by most dress-styled watches with more traditional curved cases in the past. Enter the SPB165 “Sharp Series”.

Characterized with sharp case angles and mixed brushing and polishing to accentuate its case lines, the SPB165 is sporty with a comfortable 39.3mm diameter case, 11.1mm thickness, and 47.2mm lug-to-lug.

A noticeable step up in quality from models like the “Cocktail Time” featuring the 70-hour power reserve 6R35 movement, 100m water resistance, sapphire glass, and super hard coating, it’s hard to argue for another perfect daily driver in the price range if the angular “Grammar of Design” cases of yore speak to you personally.

Retail Price: $1,000

22. Seiko SPB221

Seiko SPB221

As a watch within the “Sharp Series”, the SPB221 “Sharp Edged GMT” is a modern Seiko sports watch design to the core. Sized with a 42.2mm diameter, 13.7mm thickness, and 49.2mm lug to lug, the SPB221 should wear comfortably on wrists 6.5” inches or more. Featuring a black “asanoha” (hemp leaf diamond shaped pattern) dial, the watch is matched with an attractive ink black fixed GMT bezel and red GMT hand. 

And here’s the kicker: it’s a “flyer” GMT, meaning that the hour hand can be set independently to cycle the GMT hand forwards and back, particularly useful when changing time zones. At this time, there isn’t a Swiss watch alternative at this price point with similar functionality—a huge selling point for Seiko.

Retail Price: $1,400

23. Seiko SJE077

Seiko SJE077

In recent years, the Seiko Presage collection has earned a reputation for its use of enamel dials. The midnight blue enamel of the SJE077 is no exception and brilliantly executed at that. 

Featuring a plain dial with Breguet style Arabic numerals, a date window at three o’clock, and a properly modern sized 39.5mm diameter case, 10.9mm thickness, and 46.9mm lug-to-lug, the SJE077 should wear comfortably on most wrists as a modern dress watch. The playful moon crescent seconds hand adds just the right amount of classic sensibility, the watch being contrasted with a cordovan leather or blue crocodile strap.

Retail Price: $3,300

Other Seiko Automatic Watches

With such diverse product lines as those listed above, it should come as no shock that Seiko caters to other markets, which also house excellent automatic movements. The “Recraft” and the recent rebirth of the legendary “King Seiko” line are both such examples. 

24. Seiko SNKP23 Recraft

Seiko SNKP23 Recraft

Affordable, retro style is the name of the game with Seiko’s “Recraft” series. Featuring a rectangular 39.6mm diameter and 11.8mm thickness (46mm lug-to-lug), the SNKP23 is a unique and fun alternative to the traditional round case-shaped watches typically seen. 

The combination of polished and brushed elements on the case and bracelet provide a sense of quality generally not seen in this price range, and the workhorse caliber 7S26 can be seen through the display case back on the rear of the watch. The dial has a unique style of its own, with a sunburst blue radiating from the center and a contrasting orange seconds hand to add that extra bit of funk.

Retail Price: $275

25. Seiko SPB283 King Seiko

Seiko SPB283 King Seiko

You’ve heard the name “Grand Seiko”, but are you also familiar with its internal rival, “King Seiko”? Indeed, from the onset of Grand Seiko, King Seiko watches were also made to offer high-quality Japanese timepieces to a broader audience.

The two sub-brands worked with and competed with each other. While Grand Seiko ultimately continued on in future decades past the “quartz crisis”, King Seiko ceased production when the manufacturing line of mechanical watches in Daini Seikosha’s factory closed in 1975. 

Finally, in 2022, Seiko revived the “King Seiko” name, positioning a new line of watches a short step above the “Presage” collection. The SPB283 was among the first watches released with the “King Seiko” badge displayed on the dial, in an otherwise straightforward modern reinterpretation of the King Seiko dress/sport watches of the 1960s.

Powered by a slim 6R31 movement (70 hours of power reserve) and featuring a 12.1mm case thickness, 43.6mm lug-to-lug, and 37mm diameter, the new line of King Seiko watches are both wearable as dress watches or everyday sports functions, especially with a 100m water resistance. 

Whether Seiko will continue to build out the line with even higher grade movements like the “Hi-Beat” models of the past is yet to be seen, but it’s definitely an exciting time to be a Seiko fan with the return of the “King”.

Retail Price: $1,700

In Conclusion

No matter your use case or aesthetic preference, within Seiko’s historic and storied catalog is a rugged and reliable watch for you. We’ve presented a varied list of options across the price spectrum representative of what Seiko does best. And they’re all fully mechanical automatic watches, despite the brand’s popularity for its quartz offerings. What watch do you choose?

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Established in 1998, Exquisite Timepieces is your one-stop shop for all things luxury watches! We are an authorized dealer for 60+ luxury watch brands including Omega, Hublot, Seiko, & Longines! We are proud to showcase one of the world’s largest pre-owned watch collections, including renowned brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe. Check out our brand new watch arrivals here and popular pre-owned listings here.

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