Category: Rolex

It’s a known fact that Rolex is the crowned king of Haute Horology. Even total watch novices know that the brand has been in the business of making bucket-list-worthy watches since 1905.

The assertion that the Submariner is the most popular collection in the world – superseding all others in relevance and status – isn’t a utopian belief.

From the famous oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau wearing one in the film “Le Monde du silence”, to James Bond flaunting the Submariner as the iconic watch par excellence, the Sub has adorned the wrists of history makers. 

Owning a Submariner means owning one of the best timepieces in the entire world, but not all Subs are created equally, which is where this article comes in. Held in veneration by acolytes of the Submariner and prissy watch collectors, the Kermit and Starbucks models are among the most celebrated and debated Subs in the past century.

But why are these models so hotly debated, and how do they perform against each other? Is there really any striking difference between them, and which one is the best option for you? Let’s find out!

About the Rolex Kermit

The first Submariner models officially debuted at Baselworld in 1954. The Ref. 6204 was the first diving watch made to be waterproof up to 100m. It was clear Rolex had huge plans for the Submariner from the beginning, and one of such was to leave a  legacy as one of the most important sports watches in history.

The Rolex Kermit was launched in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the extolled Rolex Submariner collection. The first reference was 16610LV, and it came with a black dial and a green aluminum bezel. The unorthodox color choice was very unexpected, and the watch quickly garnered mixed reactions from Rolex’s fanbase.

The release was a surprise to the watch world and was also the very first Sub equipped with a green bezel. Many nicknames were attributed to the strange release, but the one that stuck was the ‘Kermit’.

Collectors choose to call the 16610LV the ‘Kermit’ because of the similarity in the coloring between the famous green frog and the Submariner’s bezel. The “LV” in the reference number represents “lunette verte,” which is French for “green bezel.” 

The 166170LV is presented in a compact 40mm case with a thickness of 13mm. The dial is a ‘maxi-dial’, meaning the markers and hands are larger than average to allow better visibility and more lumen for reading the time at night. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, uses the Calibre 3135, and is mounted on a hollow link Oyster bracelet made of 904L stainless steel. 

Production was discontinued after seven years to make way for the new green Sub by way of the 116610LV “Hulk.” The Kermit remains the ultimate symbol of success and prestige and is one hell of a diver that makes for a great investment and family heirloom. 

Since its discontinuation, demand for the anniversary piece has grown, making it highly sought-after by collectors and enthusiasts.

About the Rolex Starbucks

Launched in September 2020, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV “Starbucks” was among the four new models added to the world’s most famous dive watch collection.

The Submariner began life as a perfect diver’s instrument, and the tough tests it victoriously survived made it fixated as Rolex’s flagship model. From 1953 to the date, the line has certainly evolved but not the base concept and design code.

The Ref. 126610LV was a fresh entry, joining the ranks of other prestigious green-themed Submariners such as the Rolex Kermit and the Rolex Hulk. It was nicknamed Starbucks because of its black dial and green bezel that evoked images of the iconic green Starbucks coffee chain logo. 

The design of the Starbucks seems to step away from Rolex’s otherwise conservative brand philosophy but stays faithful to the original model launched in 1953. It is 1mm bigger than its predecessor, the Ref. 116610LV (or the Hulk) and comes with a more vintage look and prominent classic proportions such as narrower horns.

Another unique feature of the Starbucks is that it is the first Sub equipped with a Calibre 3235. The Calibre 3235 comprises the Rolex Chronergy escapement with 15% improved efficiency. Starbucks continues to enrich the symbolism of Rolex today, ensuring that the brand’s cultural value continues to grow. 

Whether it’s your first investment or an epic addition to your collection, Starbucks Ref. 126610LV is an elevated emblem of ambition for the Everyman across the planet. Since it has been built to the highest possible standard of design and functionality, diving professionals will also find it extremely useful.

Rolex Kermit vs Starbucks

The Rolex Kermit was the first generation of the green diver’s watch, which premiered in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner collection. Starbucks Ref. 126610LV, on the other hand, is the third generation. The release of the Starbucks was quite significant because Rolex completely redesigned the Submariner collection at the same time. 

The watch still featured a green bezel, but there was something “extra” about it, thanks to an upgrade in size, bezel material, and movement. Collectors have since been divided on whether it should go by the nickname ‘Kermit 2.0’ or ‘Cermit’ since it comes in the same colorway as the original Kermit and shares almost the same features.

What are the differences between these two icons? Is the Starbucks really just a reissue of the legendary Kermit Sub? Read on as we detail the variations of these two collectibles.

Appearance

Case

For several decades, the Submariner has measured 40mm in diameter. The Rolex Kermit 16610LV followed suit and came in a 904L stainless steel case (or Oyster Steel) that retained its predecessors’ 40mm diameter and 20mm lug width. 

The case of the Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been increased by 1mm and features more tapered lugs, which appear thinner and more angled. The lug width has also been increased from 20mm to 21mm, though the height of both watches remains practically the same, around 12.5mm.

Aesthetically, the Starbucks Sub is slightly more elegant, especially when you discover that even the crown guards have been redesigned and are more angled and symmetrical, giving the watch more flow, more curves, and less bulk.

The similarities would be that both cases are finished with brushed surfaces and polished sides and come with a Triplock crown, sapphire crystal, and screwed case back. The sapphire crystal of the Starbucks 126610LV, however, features an anti-reflective coating on the inner side, while the Kermit 16610LV does not.

Again for both watches, the construction, execution, and finishing are on par with all Rolex models. They are also both water resistant to 300 meters or 1,000ft.

The Dial and Bezel

Framing the dial of both watches is a classic unidirectional diving bezel with easy-to-read markers and a 60-click motion. The difference, however, is that the  Kermit 16610LV has a green aluminum bezel insert, while the Starbucks 126610LV features a bezel made of stainless steel with a knurled edge and Cerachrom insert. 

Cerachrom is manufactured by Rolex from an extremely hard ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches. It is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. As a result, the green color appears a bit more restrained and provides less contrast under certain light conditions compared to the Kermit 16610LV. 

The aluminum bezel of the Kermit features a more racing green color, like the character it’s nicknamed after. There isn’t a lot of noticeable difference between the dials. The Maxi-Dial layout retains the same design with oversized markers largely filled with blue-emitting Chromalight. However, the hands seem to have been reworked just a little bit. 

The minute hand now has a wider luminescent insert, and unlike that of the 16610LV, it touches the minute track. The Mercedes hour hand also appears slightly wider, and the entire dial feels a bit more expanded due to the extra 1mm.

Lastly, the dial of the Starbucks features a small crown in between the “Swiss Made” text at 6 o’clock, while the Kermit omits this.

Bracelet & Clasp

Rolex knows more than any other watch brand in the world not to change a proven recipe. That said, both watches are worn on the typical Rolex Oyster bracelet. The perfectly integrated 3-link bracelet is fully brushed on its flat surfaces while the sides are polished.

Since the lug width of the Starbucks has been increased by 1mm (and is now 21mm), its entire profile, from lugs to clasp, has also been redesigned. The larger bracelet visually reduces the increase in the case size, but the larger clasp (which is also one additional millimeter compared to the Kermit) doesn’t look as elegant as the compact clasp on the Kermit.

Unlike the Kermit, the Starbucks bracelet also doesn’t feel too tapered at the buckle, which is characteristic of older Rolex Submariners.

Movements

The major difference between the Starbucks and Kermit isn’t visual but mechanical. The Kermit 16610LV is powered by the reliable Calibre 3135, an automatic movement first introduced in 1988. The workhorse movement quickly became Rolex’s main movement and appeared in most Rolex date models before 2015. 

It is COSC-certified as a Superlative Chronometer with 31 jewels and is powered by a bidirectional rotor. It also features a balance wheel made of glucydur and a Parachrom hairspring, which allows better resistance to shocks and temperature variations. The Calibre 3135 offers a frequency of 28.800 vph and displays center seconds, hours, minutes, and date at 3 o’clock.

The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, is powered by a movement that could be called every watchmaker’s dream; Rolex’s Calibre 3235. The movement was officially released at Baselworld 2015 and is at the forefront of watchmaking technology with a whopping 14 patents.

The COSC-certified has a longer power reserve when compared to its predecessor, the Calibre 3135– 70 hours vs. 48 hours (almost 50 percent bump). The focus of the Calibre 3235 is to offer significant improvements in terms of precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. 

The accuracy of the Kermit’s Calibre 3135  falls between -4/+6 seconds per day, while that of the Calibre 3235 is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day. This rating is more than twice the required official chronometer accuracy.

The Rolex-patented blue Parachrom hairspring is still present in the Calibre 3235; however, it has been updated and tweaked, making it 10 times more precise than traditional hairsprings in case of shocks.

Wrist Presence & Wearability: How Do They Feel On The Wrist?

You’ll find a lot of personal opinions about this question, but some aspects are undeniable. Similarities aside, both of these watches come with differences in their wrist presence and wearability.

I would say the Kermit provides more physical balance while the Starbucks is bolder from every angle. With the Kermit, I’m really sold on its more seamless fit, but that isn’t to say the Starbucks doesn’t look just as good in its own right.

You get Oystersteel in either watch, and both carry a wearable weight that won’t tire your wrist throughout the day. At the end of the day, I’d say the Kermit is more wearable as I find it to be more adaptable to different outfits and social environments. However, the more contemporary stance of the Starbucks speaks volumes in ways that aren’t comparable to the Kermit. 

I’ll always lean toward the Kermit for several reasons, but I have to agree that the Starbucks is a one-of-a-kind. It may not be my first choice from a size perspective, but its style is something I wish I had in my collection. All in all, you’re getting a unique wrist presence with either watch, but the final decision will always come down to personal preferences.

Price & Availability

At the time of launch, the Kermit retailed for around $5,000. However, production ceased in 2010 and so if you’re looking to own the Kermit ref. 16610LV, the pre-owned market, is the only viable route.

Even though there wasn’t an immediate jump in price after its discontinuation, the popularity of the Submariner Kermit made it appreciate in the collector’s market over the years. Prices for a pre-owned Submariner Kermit 16610LV in good condition start from approximately $15,500 in the second-hand online marketplace. 

The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been gracing the shelves of official retailers since 2020 and is available for purchase only on those shelves. I say this because you can’t buy a Rolex watch directly via the brand’s website. There is a list of their official jewelers where you can (and should) purchase a Rolex with guaranteed authenticity.

The average price for a new Starbucks 126610LV is $18,495, and it is covered by the official Rolex international warranty for five years.

Value Retention & Investment

Every watch connoisseur knows that Rolex watches hold their value better than most high-end brands of luxury watches. The Kermit was produced between 2003 and 2010, and since Rolex is not producing any new model, the resale value of the Ref. 16610LV has escalated in the secondhand market. 

The absolutely collectible watch can be seen on marketplaces selling for as high as $23,000 (over four times its original price) and enjoys an ever-growing demand on the gray market. The limited availability of the watch also means that there is an investment opportunity here, as the huge surge in popularity doesn’t seem to be declining anytime soon. 

The Starbucks will also retain its value for generations to come, provided you protect it from unnecessary wear-and-tear and keep the original box, papers, and accessories intact. If we compare the value retention of the Kermit vs. Starbucks, the green anniversary timepiece certainly has more resale value and is a better investment option due to its relative scarcity. 

Rare and hard-to-find timepieces always attract the highest bids at the auction, but if, at any stage, Rolex decides to discontinue the Starbucks, its price in the secondary market will skyrocket.

Conclusion

While the Kermit and Starbucks are equal in terms of quality, execution, assembly, and finishing, the Kermit will always remain the iconic 50th-anniversary model. The magic of the Kermit has earned it a cult status, and even though the small tweaks on the Starbucks do make a major difference, the  Kermit remains the more desirable watch.

That said, it will go down in history as the first legendary green Sub and will remain highly sought after among collectors.

Let’s delve into the legendary wristwatch collection of one of the great contemporary maestros of melody, John Mayer, and unveil the Rolex timepieces that make up a good chunk of Mayer’s personal treasure trove. Rolex, the paragon of precision and elegance, has enthralled watch connoisseurs for over a century with its unrivaled craftsmanship and iconic designs. 

From the iconic Submariner’s aquatic allure to the bold and racy precision of the Daytona, each Rolex exudes a symphony of horological perfection, and John’s selection is certainly the cream of the crop.

A Guitar Man and His Watches – John Mayer’s Rolex Obsession

In a world where rhythm and harmony meet, we find the enigmatic figure of John Mayer, a virtuoso both on stage and in the world of timekeeping. Revered for his soul-stirring guitar riffs, Mayer has built an esteemed reputation as a connoisseur of exquisite timepieces, particularly Rolexes. 

A watch guy with a penchant for hard-to-obtain pieces, he has amassed a collection that rivals any, both in value and rarity. He’s been collecting for years and has multiple watches outside of his vast Rolex cache. But it is known that his heart lies with the Swiss giant, as he most often wears and discusses his favorite Rolex pieces, be they new or vintage.

Mayer’s devotion to watch culture is profoundly inspiring. With him, a guitar and a Rolex become extensions of his artistry – representations of two very different worlds that unite in the hands of an unlikely figure.

John Mayer Rolex Daytona Collection

Enter the world of high-octane elegance with John Mayer’s captivating collection of Daytonas. The Daytona, a revered icon in the realm of motorsport-inspired timepieces, has a host of characteristics that would resonate with the discerning eye of an artist. 

With its chronograph functionality, tachymeter scale, and bold yet beloved pushers, the Daytona exudes an air of refinement that mirrors Mayer’s approach to his craft.

1. Rolex Daytona 116500

Among the timekeeping treasures cherished by Mayer is the illustrious Rolex Daytona 116500. Originating in 1963, the Daytona has more than earned its place as an iconic timepiece. Mayer has been frequently spotted with the highly coveted Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN, a modern masterpiece defined by its hardy, tool-centric minimalism. 

Retailing for roughly $14,550, this modern classic is defined by its black ceramic bezel, which encircles a stark white dial for maximum contrast. There’s something very modest about the 116500LN, a characteristic that makes the watch universally wearable, which is perhaps why it’s so coveted by Rolex enthusiasts, Mayer included.

2. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Rainbow 116598RBOW

Not for everyone, the mesmerizing Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Rainbow 116598RBOW is an antidote to the modesty of the 116500. While some may dismiss it as ostentatious or garish, Mayer skillfully persuades us to appreciate its splendor.

He emphasizes the rarity of this timepiece, not only in terms of its physical attributes but also the creative ingenuity behind its design. 

Available on aftermarket platforms for around $200,000, this exquisite watch surpasses opulence, embracing the paradigm of exceptional craftsmanship and discerning collectability. It takes some attitude to wear a watch with multicolored, precious stone inserts, so it’s no surprise that Mayer flaunts his gregarious alter-ego with the help of the rainbow bezel.

3. Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow 116599RBOW

In the realm of extraordinary timepieces, John Mayer possesses at least one true gem that regularly ignites the passions of watch collectors and horologists. The Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow 116599RBOW is no exception.

While the alternative metal variants often garner more recognition, Mayer’s acquisition of the white gold iteration sets him apart from other collectors in his league, showcasing a sense of taste that transcends mere monetary value. 

Like the previous piece, this Daytona boasts a bezel adorned with a vibrant spectrum of rainbow gemstones. Its scarcity enhances its allure, making it a highly-desired ticker among collectors. Presently, this horological masterpiece can be found on the secondary market at an approximate price of $245,000. Few things say ‘wealthy and stylish’ like white gold, and Mayer really shows his colors with this one.

4. Rolex Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial

John Mayer’s keen eye for somewhat obscure watches unveils timepieces with untapped grail potential – a talent that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the Rolex community. A fine example of this knack is the Rolex Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial, which Mayer astutely recognized ahead of its subsequent rise to super-watch status.

In fact, it could be said that Mayer’s affinity for the 116508 is what prompted its sharp rise in popularity – after Mayer showcased this emerald-hued masterpiece on Hodinkee, its desirability and value skyrocketed. 

Distinguished by its captivating ‘Christmas’ green dial shade with a sunburst finish, this Daytona stands apart from its black and champagne-dialed counterparts, boasting a unique visage seldom seen on Rolex watches.

The Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial epitomizes Mayer’s ability to spot extraordinary timepieces and elevate them to coveted status among discerning collectors, proving that he’s much more than just a good songwriter.

5. Rolex Daytona 116509 White Gold Blue Dial

This is another rather understated piece (as far as Daytonas go) in Mayer’s collection, and in many ways, it’s the lamb to the 116508’s lion. Officially listed by Rolex at $37,450, this piece showcases the harmonious fusion of bright yet cool colors and functional technicality.

I’m assuming Mayer has a fairly good relationship with Rolex at this point, enabling him to secure these gems at their retail price. Someone with Mayer’s insight doesn’t get scalped on a Rolex. 

The Daytona 116509 White Gold Blue Dial is a symphony of sophistication, and although I love the green dial, something about the way the silver and blue hues work together makes the sunburst finish on this piece all the more satisfying to the eye. That said, the crown guard and pushers do appear slightly larger in white gold than in yellow gold (although they’re not), so if you’re a stickler for detail, bear that in mind.

6. Rolex Daytona Custom Bamford & Sons Blacked Out

Unlike many purists, Mayer isn’t averse to a bit of customization. The remarkable Rolex Daytona Custom Bamford & Sons Blacked Out stands as a testament to this. In fact, Mayer received one of the final Rolex mods made by the London customizer before they were purchased by LMVH and directed to work exclusively on their new boss’s brands, of which Rolex isn’t one. 

A PVD blackout case and strap are brought to life by the baby blue dial which it encases. It’s not really my style, but one has to appreciate the unique nature and color combination of this weirdly wonderful watch.

7. Rolex Daytona Custom Mickey Mouse

Drawing on his passion for vintage timepieces and the irresistible allure of the legendary Rolex Oyster Date Mickey Mouse Dial, John Mayer embarked on a personal design venture to create a modern rendition of this elusive watch.

On the Rolex ref. 116520, the black PVD-coated Daytona preserves all its functional prowess, thanks to the calibre 4130 movement, while flaunting a distinctive portrait of Disney’s beloved mouse on its chronograph dial. 

The watch comes with both a black and a white face, and Mayer almost certainly has at least one of each, given that this is well and truly his brainchild. While many might find the idea of a Mickey Mouse Daytona somewhat infantile, there’s something to be said about the endlessly playful (albeit unlikely) combination of these two pieces of horological culture.

8. Rolex Daytona 6263 Non-Paul Newman Black Dial

Otherwise known as the ‘Small Red’, the 6263 is a basic watch in many ways. Ostensibly devoid of any flair or grandeur, the non-Paul Newman 6263 might well escape the gaze of undiscerning eyes. One may be surprised to find that this ticker, defined by a red pop of lettering on the dial that proclaims its lineage, is one of the most important watches ever made. 

“It’s the only vintage Daytona you’ll ever need”, is what Mayer had to say about this modest Rolex on his first Talking Watches appearance. A black dial with white sub-dials, a flat black bezel, and screw-down pushers, all set upon a steel case, define the 6263’s aesthetic. It’s a watch made to wear, not to show, and I think that’s fundamental to its enduring spirit.

9. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Gold 6263 Sigma Dial

This distinctive variation of the Daytona dial, recognized by collectors as a Sigma dial, showcases two lowercase Greek Sigma letters (σ) flanking the esteemed “T SWISS MADE T” signature positioned below the 6 o’clock marker. The Sigma symbols indicate the use of lustrous solid gold for the hour markers, be it white gold or yellow gold, depending on the specific version of the reference 6263 Daytona. 

Though a seemingly subtle detail, these coveted Sigma dials, gracing various Rolex models from the early 1970s to the latter part of the decade, command a premium on the vintage market. Mayer’s Yellow Gold 6263 Sigma Dial is an iconic watch of its time and one whose vintage appeal and rarity still enflames the passions of collectors to this day.

10. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold 6263 Paul Newman Dial

Stop me if you’ve heard this one before – the Paul Newman Daytona is practically an institution that carried the Rolex brand over many years. A truly legendary timepiece, the Yellow Gold 6263 with its revered Paul Newman dial is a clear indication (if you still needed one) of Mayer’s affinity for vintage Rolex Daytonas. 

These exceptional timepieces, coveted by collectors, possess the potential to command staggering million-dollar prices at auction, given that they speak for a revelation in watchmaking history, as well as for a specific era of style and panache. Among Mayer’s treasures, the gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 adorned with a Newman-style dial holds a special place. 

A similar masterpiece with a slightly different dial fetched a staggering $4,000,000 at a prestigious Phillips auction in 2017. Considering the current fervor within the watch market, one can only fathom that the price has ascended even further since.

11. Rolex Daytona Steel 6263 Paul Newman Dial

The inclusion of a steel Paul Newman model showcases Mayer’s true admiration for the legendary Newman Rolex Daytona. It says a lot that Mayer would be willing to step away from his affinity for gold Daytonas to complete his Newman collection with this simple steel piece. To further emulate the spirit of the legendary Newman, or perhaps to pay homage to it, Mayer has this timepiece on a bund strap, just as the watch’s namesake did. 

I personally love a steel watch – it’s unpretentious in every way, giving itself over to the practical workings of the piece rather than leaning on lofty aesthetics and precious materials. There’s something admirable about a collector who acknowledges a watch for its cultural status as opposed to its weight in gold.

12. Rolex Daytona 6264 Paul Newman Panda

The Paul Newman Panda is certainly a favorite in the Newman line of Rolexes – Panda dials have, for their striking contrast, become beloved by watch enthusiasts the world over, whether said enthusiasts love actual panda bears or not. 

Crafted for a fleeting moment between 1970 and 1971, this Ref. 6264 timepiece is certainly a rarity, as evidenced by a handful of exceptional sales, with prices reaching almost $300,000 in late 2018. Again, it’s hard to say whether Mayer paid anything close to 300k for his Newman Panda, but it’s likely that whatever he spent, he’s a very happy man with this in his watch box.

13. Rolex Daytona 6264 Pulsation Dial

Pulsation dials, an elusive breed, are as scarce as hen’s teeth (hens don’t have teeth). According to esteemed experts such as Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer, a mere handful of verified examples exist in the world, possibly numbering around 8 or 10.

With a brushed silver dial and pitch-black sub-dials, this smaller Daytona is an absolute marvel of its class. It gets its name from the pulsation dial on the outer track of the face, which was theoretically used by doctors to measure heartbeats.

The absurd value of these timepieces is unquestionable – they’re estimated to fetch nearly a million dollars or more at auction. Mayer’s 6264 Pulsation dial variant is in fantastic condition and, thus, is poised to captivate collectors and potentially surpass that value if and when he ever decides to sell it.

14. Rolex Daytona 6265 Omani Khanjar 

It could be said that John Mayer’s prized possession, among his Daytona collection at least, is his 6265 Omani Khanjar. A standard Ref. 6265 commands a hefty estimate of $300,000 to $500,000 at auctions, and Mayer’s watch, which bears the green, “kinda pot-leafy” crossed-sabers symbol at the 6 o’clock mark, set into the lower white sub-dial, would likely go for the same. 

This distinctive mark significantly enhances the value of the watch, solidifying its desirability among collectors. With Mayer’s penchant for acquiring extraordinary timepieces, it’s no wonder he, too, has fallen for Rolex’s Arabic iterations, as the next item on the list confirms…

15. Rolex Daytona 6265 United Arab Emirates Desert Eagle Coat of Arms

The craziest thing about the 6265 United Arab Emirates Desert Eagle Coat of Arms is the fact that it doesn’t say Rolex anywhere on the dial, which is a testament to the truly custom nature of this model. In a tale of timeless prestige, His Highness Shaikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the esteemed Defence Minister of the UAE in the 1970s, personally commissioned a masterpiece. 

The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 emerged, adorned with the emblem of the UAE, the Quraysh Hawk. Only a select few bear this distinguished quality. Mayer’s acquisition is the updated 6265 iteration, a more modern but equally extraordinary timepiece.

16. Rolex Daytona 6269

Considered the progenitor of the illustrious “rainbow” lineage, this Daytona boasts a bezel and dial bedecked with a symphony of dazzling diamonds. Its rarity is unquestionable, with only a handful of these marvels on the wrists of fortunate collectors. It’s a flashy piece, no doubt, but with its unisex appeal and classic shape, this 6269 is more pared-back than Mayer’s Rainbow Daytonas in almost every way.

17. Rolex Daytona 6270

In the depths of rarity lies the remarkable Rolex Daytona 6270, a cherished sibling to the esteemed 6269. This horological gem, adorned with undeniable allure, resides within the realm of utmost scarcity. In 2014, Christie’s astounded the watch world by auctioning one of these elusive treasures for an astonishing CHF 905,000. 

Made for the Sultan of Oman, it is said that only 6 of these watches exist and that they are likely the most expensive items ever produced by Rolex, with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and a pavé-set diamond dial. This is likely the most bonkers timepiece on this list as far as true, unabated luxury goes.

John Mayer Rolex Submariner Collection

The Submariner, arguably the most iconic and genre-defining dive watch ever made, epitomizes the fusion of form and function. With its iconic design, the Submariner strikes a chord with Mayer’s affinity for practical aesthetics and easy-wearing watches.

1. Rolex Submariner 1680 COMEX

Discussed in Mayer’s first Talking Watches episode, this COMEX Sub is a quirky timepiece in its class for one very particular reason. Crafted exclusively for the renowned French dive company COMEX, the ref. 1680, unlike its counterparts, is devoid of a helium escape valve (an essential feature on dive watches) and was, therefore, more of a ‘tester’ than a watch manufactured for the market. 

Perhaps this COMEX never made it into the water, but it became the prized possession of Comex office personnel, who shared among them the few of these made. It’s a simple watch – steel case, black bezel, black dial with lume indices, and a bold white COMEX logo sitting above the six o’clock mark. John’s own 1680 is, of course, in amazing condition.

2. Rolex Submariner 5514 COMEX

As if one COMEX Sub isn’t enough, Mayer owns two of these vintage divers. His second is the Rolex Submariner Comex ref. 5514. At first glance, it resembles the iconic ref. 5513, exhibiting the very same matte dial and a subtly weathered grey bezel. However, upon closer inspection, a small yet significant detail emerges—the discreet presence of a helium escape valve discreetly nestled on its side. 

This extraordinary model, shrouded in exclusivity, was reserved solely for the esteemed members of COMEX, eluding the grasp of the public, similar to the 1680, although it lacks the bold COMEX logo that defines the dial of its predecessor.

3. Rolex Submariner 6200

This is it. Perhaps the most important Submariner ever built by Rolex, this watch laid the groundwork for a horological icon. The Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 predates the revered Submariner name. Made on a run of 300 pieces in 1954, the 6200 is unique in a few ways; it doesn’t say ‘Submariner’ anywhere on the watch, it’s got an Explorer-type dial, and it was the first Submariner to have Mercedes-style hands. 

It’s certainly a grail watch for many collectors, as evidenced by its history at auction – Phillips sold one of these illustrious specimens in October 2017 for a staggering $579,000. An absolute gem in John Mayer’s remarkable collection, his 6200 is a genuinely impressive timepiece, despite its antiquated look.

4. Rolex “MilSub” Submariner Ref. 5517

The Rolex ‘MilSub’ Submariner Ref. 5517 is a watch built for submerged military applications. Although John Mayer is unlikely to be doing any underwater ambushes anytime soon, the 5517 is a more-than-worthy inclusion in his collection, given its singular history and build. Fixed spring bars, a satin case finish, a ’T’ dial, sword hands, and a continuously graded bezel come together to make this timepiece of note. 

It’s a hard-wearing, rugged piece, if ever there was one, and Mayer’s own 5517 shows all the glorious signs of wear you’d expect to see on a vintage military watch. While the MilSub is well-known amongst enthusiasts, its scarcity elevates it to mythical proportions – it’s said that only 1200 MilSubs were crafted by Rolex, with a mere 180 believed to still be in circulation.

5. Rolex Submariner 116619

The only non-vintage Submariner on this list is the well-renowned Rolex ‘Smurf’, a modern piece that yells ‘I’m casual and sporty’ everywhere it goes. Mayer’s Smurf has a solid 18k white gold case and bracelet, a theme that carries through a few of his Daytonas, as I’m sure you’ve noticed. In fact, the 116619 was the first Rolex Submariner to come in all-white gold, a peculiarity that betrays Mayer’s interest in this reference. 

Yet, it’s not just the precious metal that defines the Smurf but the enchanting interplay of colors from which it gets its nickname. The blue Cerachrom bezel and lacquered blue dial bestow upon it an irresistibly easy-going charm. The Smurf Submariner is a harmonious fusion of sophistication and playfulness, effortlessly capturing attention and thus leaving an indelible mark on the world of horology.

John Mayer Rolex GMT Master II Collection

As an artist who is endlessly on tour, thus constantly traversing time zones, Mayer finds solace in the GMT Master II’s ability to seamlessly adapt to his jet-setting lifestyle. Its iconic rotatable bezel, striking dial variations, and robust construction render the GMT Master II victim to its owner’s movements across borders – it’s a sturdy, reliable, and eye-catching watch that does the job in style.

1. Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” 116710BLNR

The 126710BLNR, affectionately known as the ‘Batman’, broke the mold (and the market) when it was released in 2013. The moniker was quickly applied to the watch by adoring Rolex fanatics as it perfectly describes its captivating blue and black bezel, reminiscent of the iconic colors of DC Comics’ favorite dark hero. The Batman was a huge success as it was the first watch of its kind (with a split-tone Cerachrom bezel) to be released by Rolex. 

Although a newer version is available on a Jubilee bracelet, Mayer opts for the simplicity of the Oyster bracelet, which I totally get – it’s a proud watch on humble shackles, and with its unstoppable 3186 movement, there’s little chance of it letting Mayer down while he’s playing sets away from home.

2. Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” White Gold Black Dial 116719BLRO

A groundbreaking creation, this white gold wonder marks the first Pepsi model crafted from precious metal. Its allure is further enhanced by noteworthy upgrades, including the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, replacing the previous aluminum material. The addition of the Triplock waterproofing system ensures unparalleled aqueous protection, while the Maxi Dial boasts larger lume plots, which emboldens the dial in a significant manner. 

Now discontinued, the 116719BLRO commands a princely sum of approximately $42,000 on the thriving secondary market. Much like the Batman, this piece is playful yet austere, with its black face acting as a sort of grounding influence to the lively bezel.

3. Rolex GMT Master II Black Bezel 116710LN

Although it may be the most approachable of Mayer’s watches due to its affordability and monotone design, the 116710LN is a highly sought-after member of the GMT Master II family. With a stainless steel case, black-on-black bezel and dial, and an easy-wearing 40mm case, the 116710LN is a masterclass in design moderation. Rolex could have done a lot more here if they didn’t know that few things are more timeless than the combination of black and silver. 

Don’t let this watch fool you, though – it represents the final iteration of the GMT-Master II series to showcase a monochromatic bezel insert, bidding adieu to an era of singular allure and making it a special timepiece to own. Though discontinued in 2018, it’s still fawned over on the aftermarket, unsurprisingly. This may be my favorite watch of Mayer’s, if only for its chaste character.

4. Rolex GMT Master II Gold 116718LN

Let’s go out with a bang – the final item in John Mayer’s seemingly endless Rolex collection is the opulent yellow gold Rolex GMT Master II Gold 116718LN, a piece that champions Mayer’s belief that the GMT is Rolex’s greatest movement. This golden marvel, adorned with a striking black dial, exudes an air of refined sophistication. 

As Rolex currently refrains from offering a yellow gold GMT, the yellow gold GMT-Master II commands attention, particularly as it was discontinued in 2019. With this, Mayer yet again proves that every one of his timepieces is an item of special magnificence and (somewhat) unattainable rarity.

The Finish Line

It almost goes without saying at this point that Mayer’s Rolex selection is a sight to behold. One which showcases his desire to “take something from a high-style culture and adopt it into your own culture”. 

Each Rolex, with its definitive characteristics and precision craftsmanship, serves as an extension of Mayer’s musical virtuosity. Through his collection, Mayer reminds us that time is not merely a ticking of seconds but a rhythmic journey where art and engineering intertwine. 

His Rolex ensemble stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of horological mastery and the unwavering pursuit of perfection – a harmonious ode to the beauty of time, music, and the symbiotic relationship between the two.

The year 1945 witnessed the end of the Second World War. It was also the year that Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual Datejust reference number 4467. The Datejust marked a major innovation in watch technology, with the first-ever date function. A remarkable feat for a company under normal circumstances. 

However, Rolex managed to survive the war and emerged from the conflict, producing this breakthrough model in the face of nearly insurmountable supply chain disruptions. 

The original Datejust commemorated the company’s 40th anniversary. It was first available in a manual wind movement, 36mm case size, 18k yellow gold, and featured a fluted bezel, cyclops date window, a waterproof Oyster case, and the now famous Jubilee bracelet.

The Datejust would ultimately become one of the most recognizable Rolex models and their all-time best-seller. Often referred to as the brand’s ‘workhorse’. By the mid-1950s, Rolex, without much fanfare, released the lesser-known little brother to the Datejust, the Rolex Date. The Date was essentially the same timepiece, but in a smaller, 34mm size and at a lower price point.

The big brother eventually expanded its offerings to include a plethora of dial and material combinations, along with multiple case sizes. At the same time, its younger sibling kept things simple, with one case size and a few combinations. 

In this article, we’ll examine the commonalities and distinctions between the two collections. We’ll consider the design, functions, and features of some of their most popular versions over the decades to help you make the most informed decision in your next purchase. 

About the Rolex Date

The Rolex Date was added to the Rolex roster rather quietly in 1955. Throughout most of its tenure, the collection has served as a smaller version of the Datejust collection and is nearly identical. Even comparing the watches side by side, it’s difficult to see the difference in size without tools of measurement. 

The Date has a case size that measures 34mm and a 19mm lug width. Both watches were originally powered by a manual wind movement. Later versions featured automatic movements. The Date has always offered fewer customizations than the Datejust but a better price point. 

Some might see the Date as an entry-level Rolex, and the price would suggest that. But the Date is a solid performer and every bit a Rolex. Sure, there are fancier models, but this is an excellent first Rolex or addition to one’s collection. 

The model was discontinued in 2021, as subtlety as it was introduced, likely because the trend in men’s watches has been towards larger case sizes. It’s worth noting that the outgoing model didn’t receive the same upgrades to the movement the current Datejust offers. 

About the Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust, released in 1945, was the first timepiece to offer a date function, something that added great functionality and became a staple for many wristwatches. The original Datejust had a 36mm case size, but over the years, Rolex has offered it in different size options, including 31mm (primarily targeted to women) and 41mm. 

Both the 36mm and the 41mm have a lug width of 20mm.  Of course, the 31mm comes in a smaller lug width of 16mm. From the beginning, the model featured a magnified (by 2.5 times) date window at 3 o’clock, which has become known as a cyclops date, and is now synonymous with Rolex. It’s also known for its fluted bezel and its 5-link jubilee bracelet. 

While there have been upgrades to the movement over the generations, the style has remained largely untouched. It’s a classic design that has targeted executives and professionals. Perhaps this has limited the collection’s audience to a more mature clientele. 

While the collection tends to be viewed as a dressier sports watch, the timepiece can be dressed down by choosing options like a smooth bezel and the Oyster steel case and bracelet. The Datejust does offer a dizzying array of customizations. 

One can choose a smooth or fluted bezel, as well as the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. It comes in steel, white, yellow, and rose gold. The dial options are considerable, with black, shades of gray, silver, blue, green, and white. Some of the dials are textured or sunburst, and others are adorned with diamonds. There’s even an option for Roman numerals or simple indices.  

Rolex Date vs Datejust: Which Should One Choose

The two collections have largely shared the same classic style, features, and movements throughout most of their histories. However, let’s consider some of the distinctions and finer points of comparison. 

Model Options 

The Rolex Date collection keeps it simple. There are fewer customizations, in contrast to its bigger brother, which presently offers different-sized cases and various style and material options.

Build

The Datejust and Date have a nearly identical build quality. Both have rugged, water-resistant Oyster cases. The case size of the Datejust has always been slightly larger and now comes in three different sizes. Both collections have the same basic bracelet options.  

Movements 

Both have often shared the same movements and features throughout their histories. When considering pre-owned vintage models, it’s worth noting that the Datejust 16xx and Date 15xx collections were the first to introduce the quickset date feature to the model lines. 

This means that the date could be independently adjusted from the center hands; a time saving convenience. The latest Datejust features Rolex Calibre 3235 and offers a 70-hour power reserve. The last Date model from 2021 offered the older Rolex caliber 3135 with a 48-hour power reserve, which is not as advanced and accurate as the 3235. 

Price and Availability 

The current Datejust’s MSRP starts at around $7,000 for the 31mm and tops out at around $16,750 for the 41mm with options like rose gold and diamonds. If you fancy the Date, you’ll have to consider the pre-owned market, as this model has been discontinued; last offered in 2021. 

One example from Watch Charts pegs the Rolex 115200 at a market price of $6,634, though the retail price will likely be higher. Some older models might be found for less. For example, some vintage models from the 1970s can be found for $3,195 

Value Retention and Investment

Both collections tend to hold their value well. However, the Datejust is likely to appreciate faster, given that there are some configurations with diamonds and other precious metals, which increase the desirability and allow the timepieces to appreciate at a faster rate. 

Notable Rolex Date & Datejust Models  

ROLEX DATE REF. 115200

The Rolex Date originally arrived on the watch scene right at the midpoint of the 20th century, and while it’s no longer in production, this is a classic example of why Rolex just gets it right. It’s everything you want and expect from Rolex in a small package and at a reasonable price. 

The 115200 has a polished stainless-steel case measuring 34mm, as all of the Rolex Date models do, and sits at 12mm on the wrist. The dial is black with silver hands and white Roman numerals. 

However, there are different color configurations and simple index options for this model, as well. At 12 o’clock is the iconic raised Rolex five-point crown, and there’s the quintessential Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. 

The Rolex treatment and standards are seen in the details. Upon close examination of the timepiece, one can see the hands are polished by hand, not machine, and the print is clean and crisp. The polishing and fitting of the case are perfect. 

That same attention to detail is continued with the movement. This model is powered by the caliber 3135 automatic movement, with a 48-hour power reserve. The Oyster bracelet completes the package for a timepiece that just hits the sweet spot. 

Price: $6,390 

ROLEX DATE REF. 6534

This is a true vintage model that’s rare and yet still reasonably affordable. Produced in the mid-1950s, the 6534 has a few unique features starting with the “ROLEX” signature in applied letters to the top half of the dial. At three o’clock, there’s a Cyclops roulette-style date window, with alternating red and black numbers, and the claw-shaped hour markers with double-pointed baton markers at 6 and 9, which transport one to another era. 

Most of these come in a stainless-steel case measuring 34mm; however, there are some yellow-gold versions out there, as well. The dial color of the one highlighted here is referred to as radium burn, which to my eye, is a creamy light yellow. 

The face is protected by a plexiglass, and the watch is powered by the caliber 1030 automatic movement. The timepiece was originally paired with a steel riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, though many on the pre-owned market have now been matched with leather straps. 

Price: $4,850

ROLEX DATE REF. 1500

The Rolex Date 1500 is another vintage model that can be found at a modest price point. The 1500s were made in the ’60s and ’70s and offer the old charm of thick acrylic crystal, antique hands, indices, and the rivet link Oyster bracelets. 

Most of these models are in stainless steel, but some are in yellow gold. One of this period’s most stunning and unique dials is their textured champagne face with the Tritium hands.

That one is a bit harder to get a price on, so the one featured here is their sunburst blue dial, which is still radiant after nearly 50 years. The timepiece is powered by the 1570 automatic movement and is paired with a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp. 

Price: $4,420

ROLEX DATEJUST 41 REF. 126334

The DateJust 126334 was first released in 2016 and is also the current model in 2023. This model has many different configurations with different material options in Oystersteel, White Rolesor, Yellow Rolesor, and Everose Rolestor, as well as a smooth or fluted bezel and an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

One can further customize their Datejust with multiple dial colors, some with textures and diamonds. The one we’ve selected is the Oystersteel and white gold. The white gold case measures 41mm and is fitted with a fluted bezel.

While the fluted bezel is thought of as a design feature today, it was originally designed to screw the bezel into the case, helping achieve a tighter seal and protecting against water penetration. The blue sunburst dial with white gold lined indices and a magnified date window at 3 o’clock is both well-made and lovely to behold.

So is the blending of the two metals, gold and steel. Gold is admired for its sheen and steel for its character; together, they make something special. The timepiece is thin, sitting at 12mm on the wrist. It’s paired with the Jubilee bracelet, which was originally designed for the 1945 Osterperpetual Datejust, and is a five-link metal bracelet that’s remarkably comfortable. 

The bracelet boasts an Oysterclasp and a 5mm extension. Inside, the watch features the Rolex 3235 caliber automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It’s also water resistant to 100 meters. 

Price: $10,500

ROLEX DATEJUST OYSTERQUARTZ

The Oysterquartz was Rolex’s answer to the quartz crisis introduced by Seiko in the early 70s. Rolex stopped manufacturing the DateJust Oysterquartz in 2001, but some Rolex Oysterquartz models can still be found for a relative steal on the pre-owned market. 

For this profile, we’ve selected a Datejust Oysterquartz from the late ’70s and ‘80s, the 17013. This is a handsome-looking two-tone watch in stainless steel and 14k yellow gold. The stainless-steel case measures 36mm and is fitted with a fluted yellow gold bezel. The dial of the timepiece is champagne with Tritium hands and a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. 

As the name implies, the watch is powered by a quartz movement. It’s paired with a stainless steel bracelet, which has thin 14-karat yellow gold perpendicular links running down the center. This watch just feels like the 80s to me. I can see this on the wrist of some business tycoon of the era. It just puts out a cool vibe. 

Price: $6,170

ROLEX DATEJUST 36 REF. 1600

In 1969 Rolex released the 1600, a version of the Datejust with a smooth bezel. Today it’s an option, but when the DateJust was first introduced, it only came with a fluted bezel, and that design feature gave the timepiece a dressier look. While only a subtle style change, this smooth edition made the watch more versatile. 

The polished stainless steel case measures 36mm and sits on the wrist at 11mm thick. The silver sunburst dial with its raised baton hour markers and handset exudes class. There’s a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece is powered by the Rolex caliber 1570 automatic movement and is fitted with a signed steel Oyster bracelet. 

Price: $3,785

Parting Thoughts

Both the Rolex Datejust and Date are excellent, timeless designs. The Date is simplified and comes at a more modest price point, while the Datejust is highly customizable but more expensive. Outside of the modest size and customization differences, the two are incredibly similar, and one’s choice will come down to those little details of preference.  

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as a dive watch designed specifically for professional use. Quite possibly the most recognizable timepiece in the world, the underwater tool watch has preserved its quintessence for decades, making it the most sought-after luxury watch on earth. 

Hyperbolic as this may sound, it’s no exaggeration. Its appeal stretches over cultural groups, continents, gender, personality types… you name it! Rolex knows better than any other watch brand how to preserve the ethos of its flagship products.

As a result, the Submariner has retained its classic design from the 1950s while displaying a mastery of mechanics and aesthetics over the years. All legends have a story, and in true Exquisite Timepieces fashion, we shall give this icon the attention it deserves. Today, we take a look at the different Rolex Submariner sizes throughout the years.

About The Rolex Submariner

The Submariner was Rolex’s first attempt to turn a functional timepiece into an item of luxury (and how well it worked!). Even though it started as a simple and relatively affordable tool watch, it quickly took its place in the elite circle of timepieces that influence generations of time-telling devices.

Designed for diving and outdoor activities, the Rolex Submariner is part of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual line, which include sport watches that are durable, highly accurate, and resistant to water and corrosion.

Here are some of its key features:

Waterproof: The Submariner is designed to be water-resistant up to 300 meters (1000 feet), making it suitable for diving and other water-related activities. Note, however, that the earlier models were water resistant to a depth of 100 and 200 meters, as we’ll see later on.

Rotating Bezel: All Submariners feature a rotating bezel that allows divers to read the elapsed time from the beginning of any activity.

Oyster Case: The watch’s case is made of Oyster Steel, a highly durable and corrosion-resistant material developed by Rolex.

Date Window: Most contemporary Submariner models include a date window that magnifies the date display for easy reading.

Luminescent Markers: All Submariners feature luminescent markers on the hour markers and hands for legibility in low-light conditions.

Automatic Movement: The Submariner is powered by Rolex’s automatic movement, which is known for its precision and reliability.

Bracelet: The watch is typically paired with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet, which is comfortable and secure.

Triplock system waterproof crown: The Submariner’s crown features a triple gasket system, which helps prevent damage to the watch, and ensures its water resistance.

History of the Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner’s history is one of the most frequently rehearsed tales among watch enthusiasts, for good reasons. It was in 1953 that the Submariner was born, and its legend is an outstanding narrative of how a watch brand defied the odds to achieve unprecedented success.

At the time of its production, Rolex had already gained popularity and was revered as the superlative watch manufacturer with finely crafted timepieces. The brand had launched many groundbreaking inventions, such as the first waterproof and dust-proof watch in 1926 (The Rolex Oyster), the first self-winding movement in 1931, and the first automatic watch to feature a self-changing date indication (The Rolex Datejust) in 1945.

Before the release of the Submariner, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms – launched several months prior – was the first watch to tell time accurately at depths up to 91.45 meters. Then in 1954, at the Basel Watch Fair, the Submariner made its first public appearance, pushing that virtuosity further with a record-breaking feat of highly accurate timekeeping up to depths of 100 meters (330 feet).

The first iteration is believed to be the ref. 6204 (though there are still some debates on this). The watch had a black, gilt-finish dial and a rotating bezel marked for 60 minutes. It also featured straight hands styled like a pencil and luminous baton and dot indices offering superior legibility in the ocean’s depths.

Ref. 6205 followed in 1954 and was nearly identical to Ref. 6204 but had a thicker case and a larger crown. After these, a hotly sought iteration known as “King Sub” was launched and featured a large 8mm crown with a depth rating of 200 meters. The ref. 6538, which is the most revered of all – thanks to its association with the iconic Bond franchise – was produced in the latter part of the 1950s. The Ref. 5508 replaced the 6538 and was the first Submariner to house the Cal. 1530.

Over the next decades, production continued steadily and was mainly inspired by technical advancements such as enhanced water-resistant ratings and upgraded movements. Despite these changes, the Submariner has remained true to its original design. Today, the Submariner boasts a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, a patented high-tech Cerachrom bezel, a Glidelock bracelet, and a date function.

Rolex Submariner Sizes

The Rolex Submariner has been the go-to watch for divers since 1953. Since its creation, Rolex has revamped the Sub line with a handful of significant improvements, especially regarding the size, waterproofness, robustness, and functionality.

Below we take a look at the different Submariner sizes. We will not dive into the minutiae of each size that the Sub line has featured or every reference within the selected dimensions. But, we’ll take a look at the highlights of the primary Sub sizes so that you can understand the model’s evolution.

Rolex Submariner 37mm

Between 1953 and 1959, the Submariner came in a stainless steel case that measured 37mm across. It is important to note that the first few years of its existence were a bit turbulent, so Rolex seemed to be altering the design endlessly. Eight known models were launched within this short span, including Ref. 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536, 6536/1 6538, 5508, and 5510.

The stainless steel Oyster case featured a screw-down case back, often called “bubble back” because of its rounded shape and the movement it housed. 

Ref. 6204 was the first official Sub with the words “Submariner” appearing on the dial and the following iteration (Ref. 6205) displayed many of its hallmarks. Ref. 6205 was water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and used the same movement as Ref. 6204 (the Cal. A260). However, it featured an upsized crown (from 5.3mm to about 6mm) and did not have the Submariner logo on its dial. 

The following year the Marque released a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners that came in two distinct series. The design was pretty much the same as its predecessors; however, a few tweaks and upgrades are worth mentioning. First off, it had a thicker case with a big 8mm “brevet” crown that ensured an increased water-resistance rating of 200 meters. The dial also had a 3-6-9 Arabic numeral configuration (Explorer-style). 

Rolex continued evolving the Submariner at a rapid pace so that between 1956 and 1958, the line was significantly revised again, producing the 6536 (downsized crown: 6mm) and 6538 (oversized crown: 8mm) models. The Ref. 6536/1 had a thinner, chronometer-certified movement (the cal. 1030), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the “red triangle” marker on its bezel.

The Ref. 6538 had multiple versions and dial variations classified as “4-line” (Chronometer-Certified) and “2-line” (Non-Chronometer-Certified). It is also known as the “Bond” Sub because it is the reference that Sean Connery wore in Dr. No, the very first James Bond film. Again, in 1958, Ref. 5510 and Ref. 5508 were released, and they were among the last known references that came with a 37mm case. 

Ref. 5510 was virtually identical to Ref. 6538 with 200 meters of water resistance, a red triangle, and a big crown. The Ref. 5508 on the other hand was similar to the Ref. 6536/1 with a smaller crown, thinner case, and water resistance rating of only 100 meters. Both models featured the updated Caliber 1530 movement. The Ref. 5508 continued running till about 1962 and is the last Submariner ever produced without crown guards.

Rolex Submariner 40mm

The 40 mm generation of the Submariner begins with the Ref. 5512 released in 1959. From this point on the Submariner attained consistency and looked more like the contemporary Sub we know today. Crown guards were introduced to keep the winding crown from getting loose, in addition to the now standard Mercedes handset.

The Ref. 5512, along with its non-COSC certified sibling, the ref. 5513, represented an amalgamation of all the different elements that worked superbly for the previous Submariners. Both models were nearly identical with 40mm wide cases, 7mm crowns, 200 meters depth rating, beveled lugs, crown guards, Mercedes hands, and a demarcated dive bezel.

However, Ref. 5512 had the text “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” above 6 o’clock, while the 5513 did not. Both models were extremely long-serving; Ref. 5512 was in production from 1959 to 1980, while ref. 5513 ran from 1962 all the way up to 1989. Of course, during this time, there were a lot of tweaks and design changes to the dials of both references leading to a number of variants.

A variant of the Ref. 5513 even features an ‘Explorer’ dial, much like the Ref. 6200. It is the last Submariner with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, making it a highly coveted vintage timepiece. The modern Submariner gradually began to emerge as production of the Ref. 5513 drew to a close. Tritium had already replaced radium luminescence, and the dials were now glossy black with white gold accents.

Another 40 mm model is the Ref. 1680 (1967-1979), the first Submariner to feature a date window without cyclops. It is one of the best-known vintage Rolex timepieces with several iterations. There is a version with the word “Submariner” printed in red (dubbed the Red Sub), a “white version” (which had all the texts on the dial in white), and even a special interpretation of the same Ref. 1680 designed for the Compagnie de Maritime Expertise (COMEX), which was never sold directly to the public.

Other references with 40 mm cases were merely ‘transitional’ but featured notable upgrades. For instance, the 16800 (1979-1988) was the first Sub to be equipped with a sapphire crystal (an upgrade from plexiglass) and a unidirectional bezel.

Other 166XX references with different tweaks and engine upgrades came into the market and stayed in production for roughly two decades. Luminova usurped tritium, and the drilled lug holes on the cases became a thing of the past. 

Production of 40mm Sub cases drew to a close with Ref. 14060 (non-date model with sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown) that came alongside Ref. 14060M (with the upgraded caliber 3130). Finally, the Ref. 114060 and 116610 (Super case models) were presented in slightly square cases (due to the large, robust lugs) with thicker crown guards than the previous generations.

Rolex Submariner 41mm

2020 saw the retirement of Ref. 114060 and the introduction of Ref. 124060 and Ref. 126610. The Submariner collection was updated all at once for the first time in history. The ‘big’ watch craze was gaining momentum worldwide, and Rolex acted in answer to the trending demand by increasing the case size.

The bulky and masculine “Super Case” is totally gone in this iteration, and the 41 mm cases now feature thinner lugs with elegantly sweeping silhouettes and slimmer crown guards. The case is still around 12.5mm high, but the slim profile of the lugs makes the 1mm diameter increase barely noticeable.

The Oyster Steel (904L stainless steel) case is finely executed with polished sides and brushed surfaces that give it a radiant gleam. The case back remains solid screwed steel, while the Triplock crown ensures a water-resistant rating of 300m or 1,000ft. 

The ref. 124060 is the basic “no date model” and is powered by the Cal. 3230 with 70 hours of power reserve. The Ref. 12661X, on the other hand, is the date model powered by the Cal. 3235 and is available in up to seven different iterations.

The Ref.126610LN has a monochromatic appearance and black bezel, while the 126610LV (nicknamed the “Kermit” as in the frog) features a green bezel. Both movements provide an increased power reserve of 70 hours (from 48 hours) and are Chronometer-Certified with a precision of 2/+2 seconds per day.

Conclusion

The Submariner is the one watch collection that has remained true to its original design, making it an all-time favorite. Heck, the archetypical dive watch would still be instantly recognizable by Hans Wilsdorf if he came back today.

It is one of the greatest of all and will forever remain a popular choice among divers, collectors, and watch enthusiasts alike. Due to its popularity, the Sub is a target for counterfeiters, so if you plan to add one to your collection, be cautious and ensure you are buying it from a reputable source.

No, ’Bluesy’ isn’t the street name of a character on the Sopranos. Instead, Bluesy is the nickname used for any Submariner references made by Rolex with a blue dial, blue bezel, and a two-tone Oystersteel case/strap. It’s not an official term coined by Rolex, but it has been around for almost as long as the watch has and is, therefore, a firm fixture in collector vocabulary. 

The Bluesy nickname is straightforward and less cliché than some others given to Rolex variations (I’m looking at you, Starbucks, and Batman). It’s not only a catchy moniker but one which accurately describes the main visual characteristics of the watch.

About The Rolex Bluesy

Although we don’t like to talk about it much anymore, one can’t ignore the lasting influence of the 1980s. To be more specific, one can’t help but notice that two-tone Rolexes came into the spotlight during the 80s. Wall Street-influenced style did a number on us in that department.

However, despite the questionable fashion choices of the era, it was a wild time to be alive, and the Bluesy reflects that in all of its multicolored splendor. It could be due to this ‘cultural capture’ that blue Submariners have been popular among collectors for decades.

There are 4 distinct versions of the Bluesy, which we’ll look at in more detail in a minute. Among the most iconic of these is the 116613LB, an era-defining watch that’s hard to fault. 

In 2020, Rolex released the successor to this classic, which features cutting-edge craftsmanship and innovations that some believe surpass the original. Is it possible for Rolex to further refine such a beloved watch? Let’s take a closer look at the Bluesy line to find out where the differences lie.

So Many Bluesy Models, So Little Time

Here’s a breakdown of the Bluesy models released by the Swiss firm since the early ‘80s, each of which is slightly different from the rest, as you’d expect.

1. 16803 (1983-1988)

The very first of its line, and the watch that inspired the nickname that now defines this family of Submariners, the 16803, was in production for just over 5 years and met much fanfare during the 1980s. Arguably the largest difference between this and other models, other than the movement, is the size and flatness of the case.

While I quite like this build, it doesn’t quite have the attitude of other versions. The 1680 Submariners are considered transitional models as they remained in production for a relatively short period but inspired several design improvements.

This generation of Submariner watches was the first to feature sapphire crystals, improved the water resistance rating to 300 meters, and used caliber 3035 movements. The 16803 has a 40mm Oyster case made of steel with a yellow gold winding crown and a yellow gold unidirectional rotating bezel fitted with an anodized aluminum bezel insert.

The dial features many yellow-gold details, including lume-filled index surrounds and Mercedes-style hands. Some early models of the 16803 were equipped with a “nipple dial,” which had raised gold hour markers like those on the all-gold version of the ref. 1680. Like most Rolesor Rolex watches, the ref. 16803 Submariner’s Oyster bracelet includes yellow gold center links flanked by stainless steel outer links.

2. 16613 (1989-2010)

The 16613 incorporated white-filled indices on the dial and began what would herald in Rolex’s march towards a more contoured case, which contracts with the slightly ‘flat’ feel of the 16803. Furthermore, the blue of this model is decidedly more vivid than the previous model’s, which makes the model stand out.

While this lends the watch a slightly more luxurious feel, it certainly doesn’t detract from its utilitarian build. This newer model features a two-tone 40mm Oyster case, an aluminum bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet.

However, the Submariner 16613 is powered by the caliber 3135 automatic movement, a significant difference from the previous model. Although the 16613 was in production for about 20 years, it underwent many enhancements and updates throughout its run.

For instance, Rolex replaced tritium with Luminova as the luminescent material in the late 1990s, introduced solid end-link bracelets in 2000, and phased out lug holes a few years later. In the early 2000s, Rolex began engraving the watches’ serial numbers and “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX” on the rehaut and laser etching a micro crown on the crystal to deter counterfeiting.

As a result, a mid-2000s ref. 16613 will look and feel distinct from a late 1980s Submariner ref. 16613, despite being the same model.

3. 116613LB (2009-2020)

Although this may be the most popular Bluesy model, given the immense growth in the luxury watch market between 2010 and 2020, the 116613LB isn’t the most recent iteration of this famous blue beast. More ‘active’ in its finishing than the preceding model, the 116613LB underwent significant changes compared to its predecessor. 

Although the official case measurement remains the same, the “Super Case” silhouette is beefier and more robust, thanks to the larger crown guards and fatter lugs. The two-tone bracelet is somewhat improved, with solid 18k yellow gold center links and a completely redesigned durable clasp, which certainly adds to the watch’s heft.

This version features a larger bezel insert made of Rolex’s patented ceramic alloy, Cerachrom, offering excellent resistance to scratching and fading. The dial has also been given the supersize treatment, with larger lume plots and broader Mercedes-style hands.

Earlier versions of the Bluesy ref. 116613 featured the flat blue dial to match the blue shade of the Cerachrom bezel. However, Rolex revived the popular sunburst blue dial in 2013, and the flat one was phased out.

The Submariner ref. 116613 continues to run on the Caliber 3135, which underwent some key improvements over the years, such as achieving an accuracy rating of -2/+2 seconds per day, twice the requirement set out by COSC chronometer standards in 2015.

It’s worth noting that early iterations of this model were available with diamond hour markers, which is not the case with the sunburst blue dial version.

4. 126613LB (2020-)

While very similar to the 116613LB, Rolex’s newest Bluesy has two distinctly effective differences from all of its ancestors; a 41mm case and white text. By switching from the gold text they had used for decades to the white text they employ now, Rolex made the legibility of this watch (and other Sub models) easier by orders of magnitude. 

The slightly larger case and more refined lugs return to the classic proportions of earlier Submariners. This reference also boasts an updated automatic movement, the Caliber 3235, featuring a Chronergy escapement and patents and providing an improved power reserve of about 70 hours.

The yellow gold and steel cases and bracelets, unidirectional rotating Cerachrom bezels marked to 60 minutes, and a date window at 3 o’clock with a magnified Cyclops lens remain consistent with earlier versions.

Like its predecessors, the 126613 can withstand water pressure up to 1,000 feet (300 meters). Its hour markers and Mercedes-style hands are generously coated with Chromalight lume, optimizing legibility in low-light conditions.

Bluesy Reborn – The Submariner ref. 126613LB

Objectively, the 126613LB doesn’t offer any functional advantage over its all-steel counterparts. However, I would be a fool to dispute the simple fact that in the 21st century, most wristwatches, particularly those from Rolex, primarily serve luxury purposes. 

The two-tone Submariner with the blue dial embraces this luxury mission aptly by conveying warmth and prestige more effectively than the cold, clinical stainless-steel divers. At 41 millimeters, this generation of Subs remains just as sturdy as its ancestors.

The ceramic bezel, in a gorgeous marine blue with embedded dive markings in an 18-karat gold bezel, is a thing of beauty. Unlike other less boisterous models, the blue and gold combination has proven staying power. Even in the 1970s, dealers were known to conjure up custom two-tone Submariners for customers via a more liberal Rolex parts department.

From there, the two-tone Sub evolved into a staple, particularly in blue, befitting its nautical heritage. One small but significant change that aligns the new Submariner with modern times is the switch to white text on the dial.

It adds a fresh and contemporary feel while boldly contrasting the dark sunburst blue dial background and matching the bright Chromalite on the hands and indexes. Although it may feel indulgent, I prefer to think of it as a projection of confidence. 

The band of gold running down the center of the links is unmistakable from across the room, while the solid gold crown confirms the watch’s triple-protected impenetrability and continues that vault-like feel throughout the timepiece.

It’s a totem for your sense of self-worth, and if you’re wearing one of these, you’re bound to feel like a million dollars. Let’s have a closer look at the specific features of the Bluesy, seeing as we’re geeking out on the model already. Here’s a brief rundown of the main focal points of the watch;

Case

To use the word ‘impressive’ alone to describe Bluesy’s case may be an understatement. After all, we should bear in mind that the Submariner case redefined the modern dive watch aesthetic almost singlehandedly. That’s more than impressive.

It’s awe-inspiring. Boasting a 41mm diameter and 12.7mm thickness, this luxury diver’s watch fits snugly on almost any wrist. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 48.1mm and a 21mm lug width, it is similar in size to other Submariner models and a breeze to wear.

Crafted primarily from Oystersteel, the Rolex Bluesy is built to last. This patented 904L stainless steel blend (aka Oystersteel) is ultra-tough and resistant to scratches, impacts, and corrosion. Its finely polished case and satin-finished lug hoods give it a subtly sophisticated look despite its sporty origins.

Fashioned partly from luxurious yellow gold, the two-tone gold and silver exterior also features a unidirectional rotating bezel and screw-down crown. The bezel’s blue ceramic insert, marked with a matching gold elapsed time scale, has a bottle cap-like groove that provides a better grip for divers, even when wearing gloves. 

At the noon position, a luminous pip glows bright in the dark, ensuring improved visibility in low-light conditions. The bezel’s 120 clicks and lack of back play make tracking time underwater a breeze.

The yellow gold crown delicately emblazoned with Rolex’s iconic crown emblem, is protected by Oystersteel crown guards that allow for easy grasping and turning. Additionally, the watch’s Triplock waterproofness system and solid Oystersteel screw-down caseback offer impressive water resistance up to 300m (1000ft).

Dial

The Bluesy’s dial is arguably the main attraction of the watch. It is, after all, the reason behind this Submariner’s nickname. A striking royal blue metallic sunburst finish perfectly complements its blue bezel, and the iconic Submariner design is apparent in its geometric indices and bold hands, all encased in gold. 

Furthermore, Bluesy’s hands and indices are equipped with Chromalight, a cutting-edge technology that enhances clarity and visibility in any lighting condition, even in deep, dark, scary waters. The face features a date display that replaces the 3 o’clock marker.

Printed in white for maximum contrast and legibility, the brand’s signature and the Submariner title, depth rating, and Superlative Chronometer certification adorn the dial at 12 and 6, respectively.

Protecting the stunning dial of the Rolex Bluesy is a layer of scratch-resistant sapphire glass, known for its remarkable durability and sleek appearance. With a mineral hardness rating of “9” on the Mohs scale, this crystal is almost impervious to scratches and can only be damaged by diamonds. 

To minimize reflections, Rolex has added anti-reflective coatings to Bluesy’s sapphire crystal, making it easier to view from different angles. Additionally, a convenient cyclops lens, a feature that is now synonymous with Rolex date variations, magnifies the date display for easy reading.

Movement

The Rolex Calibre 3235, a step up from the 3135, is now a household name in the watch industry and a favorite among WOSTEP-certified watchmakers. This chronometer movement has earned its reputation, boasting an impressive accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day, certified by COSC.

With an approximate power reserve of 70 hours, the 3235 provides plenty of power to keep itself ticking on time. After almost three decades as the flagship movement of Rolex, the Calibre 3135 began to be phased out around 2015 in favor of this modified version.

Thus, 126613LBs purchased before then will contain a 3135, being the last models to feature this legendary movement. However, that doesn’t mean other models with the 3135 weren’t still being shipped to ADs during the transition period.

Bracelet

The Rolex Bluesy flaunts a yellow Rolesor bracelet incorporating Oystersteel outer and yellow gold center links. This bracelet exudes a remarkable level of sophistication while providing wearers with the utmost comfort and durability. The Rolex Glidelock system and Oysterlock folding safety clasp keep the bracelet fastened and secure on your wrist, regardless of whether you’re exploring the deep blue seas or running errands in the city.

Should You Buy A Rolex Bluesy?

If you’re considering purchasing one of these icons, there are a few factors to take into consideration before heading to the watch store. 

Firstly, the cost of this piece is far greater than its price, particularly if you’re looking for a daily wearer or just a single luxury watch to add to an otherwise modest collection. You have to acknowledge that this isn’t a humble watch, nor should we expect it to be. 

The Bluesy is decidedly thematic in its design, representing a kind of nautical luxury that demands attention while refusing humility in all forms. The Bluesy speaks for the boldest aspects of one’s character and, thus, should be treated accordingly. 

This isn’t a watch that you wear with joggers while picking up a coffee order down the road. This is a watch that belongs under the cuff of a good suit or on the wrist of an arm that’s caressing the railing of a cruising Sunseeker.

Understand that the true cost of the Bluesy means you’re paying the price for something that will likely alter your lifestyle. If you’re not ok with that, you should look for a timepiece that’s a bit less adventurous in its design.

Secondly, the price is obviously also a factor to consider – the Bluesy ref. 16613, for example, will set you back a clean $15,900. That’s not a figure to be scoffed at, and thus, one has to be very sure that they’re willing and able to throw down that kind of cash for a single ticker.

If you ask me, I’d say that the decision of whether to go with a Bluesy or not essentially comes down to two things, assuming you have the money to spend – taste and attitude. It goes without saying that if you hate the color blue or are not a fan of the two-tone look, which many aren’t, then this watch ain’t for you.

 Alternatively, if you’re into the look but lack the confidence that this watch demands of its owner, I would advise purchasing something a bit more humble. If, however, you’re the master of your reality – an engaged and engaging individual with a commanding character – then there are few watches that you deserve to give yourself more than the Bluesy.

Alternatives To The Rolex Bluesy

This is undoubtedly a covetable timepiece, but its price tag (and the state of the Rolex after-market) can make it an unattainable dream for many. Fear not, for there are several stylish and reliable alternatives to the Bluesy that won’t break the bank. While Rolex may be the ultimate benchmark, other high-performing diver’s watches are available at more affordable prices.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.20.42.20.03.001)

Omega makes perhaps the strongest contender when it comes to timepieces that can give the iconic Submariner a run for its money. The Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Master Chronometer is a sturdy yet luxurious dive watch that, much like the Sub, is a definite fixture in the watch world. 

Crafted from a stainless steel and gold blend, it boasts a 42mm case, topped with a gold unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a blue scratch-resistant ceramic insert with the Ceragold dive scale.

The watch is powered by the impressive Omega Calibre 8800, a self-winding movement with a co-axial escapement and a 55-hour power reserve. It’s a bit sharper in its outward appearance than the Bluesy, but indeed no less impressive.

Longines Hydroconquest (ref. L3.781.3.96.7)

The HydroConquest Automatic is perfect for those who love the general look of the Bluesy and want a reliable and respected mid-range timepiece. It features a solid blue ceramic bezel, luminous hour markers, and large Arabic numerals at 6, 9, and 12. 

The watch is powered by a Longines caliber L888 movement, which contains 21 jewels, beats at 25,200 vph, and has a 72-hour power reserve. These are all impressive numbers for a relatively modest $2025 watch. Even more surprising is the water-resistant rating of up to 300m/1000ft, which is on par with Rolex’s own Submariners, making the watch a practical competitor as well as a visual one.

Bulova Marine Star (ref. 98B334)

Part of Bulova’s Marine Star Collection, the 98B334 reference is an entry-level diver for those who are after something with a bit of attitude that won’t break the bank. With a sharp, cool two-tone case and bracelet and a sleek blue dial with a handy date window at three o’clock, the Marine Star gives off a decidedly sporty vibe. 

To make matters more interesting, an open-heart dial and seconds sub-dial grant this piece an air of complexity that punches above its price bracket. Plus, it’s got a durable flat mineral crystal, reliable quartz movement, and can handle water depths up to 100 meters. At 43mm in diameter, it’s a bit bigger than the Bluesy, but for only $360, what’s an extra 2 millimeters?

Conclusion

The Rolex Bluesy Submariner Date isn’t only an iconic watch for the sake of watch culture – it’s a true masterpiece that exudes exceptional style and incomparable reliability. Its release heralded an entirely new era of horological style. 

With its trend-setting design and timeless charm, it created a new visual standard for the luxury diver, being virtually indestructible while still able to turn heads at cocktail parties and company dinners. 

There’s nothing to fault here – a timepiece this great only comes around once every few decades, so thank your lucky stars if you were there to witness its release, and I’ll thank mine that I’m here to appreciate its indelible impact.