Category: Watch Reviews

As watch enthusiasts, we tend to love the rich history and stories behind the timepieces we wear on our wrists. So much so that the industry as a whole tends to perpetuate these stories and ride their popularity until even the most hardcore of collectors roll their eyes at yet another “special/limited edition”. 

But, with that said, there is a category, a subculture if you will, in the watch community that will always amass followers and evangelizes them with stories of renown, bold adventures, and true tool watch lore. 

That, my dear reader, is the loved/lusted by many, luxury military watch. And yes, while I’ll be the first to admit it does sound like an oxymoron, the timepieces on our list today have a true tool watch lineage and have served a purpose for the original wearers far before becoming the desk divers they are today.

So, strap on your best all-black multicam tactical loadout because today we are talking about the 25 Best Luxury Military Watches. 

WHAT IS A LUXURY MILITARY WATCH?

I think it is safe to say that many of us in the watch enthusiast community have a pretty good understanding of what a luxury military watch is, but for those who might be new to the obsession, let’s do a high flyby with the basics.

In short, a military watch is a timepiece that has been used in military service in some way, shape, or form. Pretty basic and easy to understand. But the idea of a “luxury” military watch is a bit of an oxymoron or misnomer. So, if I were going to define a luxury military watch, I’d say that it is a timepiece initially created for a purpose and has since seen a meteoric rise in popularity and price due to the demand from the enthusiast community.

HISTORY: LUXURY MILITARY WATCHES

So as stated before, military watches have always been used in a professional manner by those men and women in the armed forces. But, it wasn’t until the watch market exploded that the demand for some of these vintage military timepieces also exploded.

In turn, you saw an increase in demand for watches that weren’t as mass-produced as others. This led to watch manufacturers capitalizing on the opportunity to produce and release new or reissue variants of these timepieces with more modern materials for a modern market.

And just like that, the luxury military watch was born.

It goes without saying that in the world of watches, some of the most sought-after timepieces are those that have been on the wrist of an armed forces member. 

In today’s article, we will discuss vintage military watches that have become “luxury” and modern luxury military timepieces that have seen their share of work, stood the test of time, and have since been reissued to watch nerds around the world. 

LUXURY MILITARY WATCHES: WHAT TO LOOK FOR

To begin, we need to understand what constitutes a military watch and what the daily use of one might entail.

Again, as we’ve discussed, a military watch is going to see hard use. It will likely be used as a tool; with that said, a luxury military watch should follow the same guidelines as its less-expensive brethren. Below are some characteristics to look for in a luxury military timepiece. 

TOUGHNESS

I think one of the most important things a military watch needs to be is tough. This means it can withstand daily use by someone who might be doing lots of exercising, rucking, or other forms of physical activity that might subject the timepiece to some bumps and bruises. Toughness also means using the proper materials that will handle the hard knocks with ease; we will discuss more about materials soon. 

LEGIBILITY

A proper luxury military timepiece needs to be legible. If there is one thing that I have learned from friends and family members who have served in the military, it is that cleanliness is next to godliness, and timeliness is a close second. 

With that said, it is important to be able to read the time at-a-glance so as not to be punished for your tardiness. 

HIGH-END MATERIALS

As discussed earlier in the toughness section, a luxury military watch needs to use quality materials that can withstand the hard use of said timepiece.

While stainless steel is the go-to choice for many of these timepieces, the use of alternative materials like titanium, carbon, or high-strength polymers can also be found in this category of watches.

It is important to note that there are also different finishings/coatings that increase the toughness and quality of the materials being used, such as Sinn’s TEGIMENT process, DLC coating, or modern-day PVD coating. 

BUILD QUALITY

The build quality and water resistance are of the utmost importance when it comes to luxury military timepieces. 

I think it is obvious that you want an accurate timepiece, but you also want one that is put together well. A solid piece that will not waver when confronted with challenges, one that will not croak on you in the middle of an important mission, even if that mission is to free the cookies from the confines of its jar at 2:00 AM.

But, while the build quality is important, you don’t want a timepiece with such tight tolerances that it takes a master watchmaker to fix.

Much like the idea of an EDC or Duty pistol, you want something that is reliable and durable, like your Glock, S&W M&P, or Sig pistols, as opposed to your high-end custom shop 1911 pistols that take a true master to work on. 

WATER RESISTANCE

Last but certainly not least, I think every military watch needs to have some sort of water resistance.

Now I’m not saying that they all need to accompany James Cameron to the bottom of the Challenger Deep. But, it is important that they can withstand certain water pressures, especially in the instance of a maritime mission to the bottom of the sink or an emergency water landing as you drunkenly fall into the pool. 

THE BEST LUXURY MILITARY WATCHES

Alright, now that we have any idea of what luxury military watches are, their history (if we want to call it that), and what characteristics to look for in one, let’s get into our list of watches.

1. Marathon Large Diver’s Automatic (GSAR) Official USMC™ (ref. W194006)

Perhaps one of the coolest timepieces on our list and what happens to be my next watch purchase, the Marathon Government Search and Rescue, more commonly known as the GSAR, is definitely a contender for the toughest and most robust on the list.

With a case diameter of 41mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 48mm, and a case thickness of 14mm, the GSAR is a great size for anyone with an average-sized wrist. But in the event you have a smaller or larger than average, Marathon also makes a 36mm and 46mm case in the SAR line.

One of the standout features on the GSAR has got to be the lume. Unlike typical timepieces that use Super-LumiNova or some kind of proprietary lume, the GSAR uses Tritium-filled gas tubes with a half-life of 12 years. The GSAR is powered by the Sellita SW200 and retails for $1,500 on a rubber strap.

2. Benrus Type I – Original Military Dive Watch

While we are only on our second watch, the Benrus Type 1 is the first reissue watch on our list. The Benrus Type I was originally produced in 1972 as a more robust alternative for American Soldiers during the Vietnam War.

The Type I was built more specifically to meet the standards and requirements for the Underwater Demolition Team or UDT divers. The Benrus Type I has a case diameter of 42.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 47.5mm, and a case thickness of 14.6mm.

The standout feature of Type I is the unique asymmetrical case design that protects the crown without the need for crown guards. Much like the original, the Type I utilizes a two-piece seatbelt NATO and is water resistant to 30 ATM. Unlike the original version, the new Type I is available to the public and has an MSRP of $1,695.

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono (ref. H71706830)

Next on our list is a brand that has had its timepieces featured in over 500 films, Hamilton. The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chrono is just one of the many timepieces to be featured in Hollywood.

While it wasn’t this exact reference, but a slightly different sleek, and tactical all-black version seen on the wrist of John Krasinski as Jack Ryan, Hamilton proves that their military heritage inspired Khaki Chrono is as at home on a soldier’s wrist as it is on the big screen.

The Khaki Chrono has a case diameter of 44mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 52mm, and a case thickness of 14.15mm. Considering that the Khaki Chrono is packing an automatic Hamilton H-21 movement (Valjoux-7750 Base), it is a rather slim chronograph.

The standout feature of the Khaki Chrono has got to be the nostalgia-laced design language. With a bead-blasted stainless steel case, classic Khaki dial layout/markings, retro bund strap, and an MSRP of $1,945, this Hamilton is sure to please the vintage enthusiast.

4. CWC 1980 Royal Navy Divers Watch Reissue

The CWC 1980 Royal Navy Diver is a watch that might not be on the average enthusiast’s radar, which is a shame because it is a timepiece that is just dripping with 80s cool. It was the watch that kicked off the relationship between the Cabot Watch Company (CWC) and the British Royal Navy.

Much like the Benrus Type I, the CWC 1980 is a reissue based on the first CWC watch produced for the Royal Navy. The watch was issued to Royal Navy Divers and was actually the watch to replace the venerable Rolex Milsub (which we’ll talk about later), which means that it had to meet certain criteria, one of the most important being fixed lugs.

The idea is that standard spring bars are failure points in a watch’s design. If you take away that failure point, you have a timepiece that is far less likely to be lost during underwater dive missions, hence the reason for fixed lugs.

The 1980 is definitely a watch for those who like the fauxtina look. With a case diameter of 45mm (including crown guards), a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm, a case thickness of 12.7mm, and a price of around $3,000, this slim and capable successor to the Milsub throne should definitely be on your shortlist for vintage inspired military dive watches.

5. Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale (ref. L2.833.4.93.2)

The number five spot on our list goes to a company whose military heritage and back catalog of timepieces is as impressive as any.

The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale, unlike a few watches on our list so far, is not a reissue per se but rather a reinterpretation of the Longines 5774, a timepiece originally produced in the 1940s for the Marine Nationale (French Navy).

With a case diameter of 38.5mm, larger than the original, this modern-sized reinterpretation is a perfect example of making slight changes for a modern consumer.

One of the standout features of the Heritage is the attention to detail when designing the dial and its layout. The painted numerals, blued hands, and “Fab Suisse” imprint on the dial make this perfectly proportioned dial a real looker.

The Heritage has an MSRP of $2,300 and is the perfect modern interpretation of a Longines classic. 

6. Laco Squad Watches Seven Seas (ref. 861703)

The Laco Squad Watch Seven Seas was born out of the need for a watch that met the high standards and requirements for those serving as firefighters, police officers, and members of the German military.

Made in close collaboration with the German Army, the Seven Seas is a great example of a modern luxury military timepiece not based on a watch from the past.

With a case diameter of 45.8mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 55.3mm, and a case thickness of 16.65mm, this oversized timepiece was made with toughness in mind. The robust nature of this watch can withstand some of the harshest conditions and will continue to serve you well.

With 1,000m of water resistance, this ETA-powered behemoth is sure to stand up to whatever recreational water sports you use it for. The MSRP is $2,350, and while it is lacking a bit in the movement department, it more than makes up for it in the rugged toughness department. 

7. Longines Heritage Military RAF (ref. L2.819.4.93.2)

The next watch on our list is another Longines. Remember when I said that they have an extensive back catalog and impressive military heritage? Well, I think being one of two brands on our list to have multiple timepieces represented is a clear indicator that I wasn’t lying.

The Longines Heritage Military RAF is similar to the Marine Nationale in that it was produced for a specific branch of the military, in this case, the Royal Air Force.

Much like the Marine Nationale, the RAF has a case diameter of 38.5mm and is highly legible and very easy to use. The standout feature on the RAF is the blued steel hands which give a great pop of color to the parchment-colored printed dial.

The RAF is yet another excellent example of the military and, more specifically, aviation heritage that Longines is so proud of. With an MSRP of $2,425, the RAF is a beautiful timepiece with a little old-world charm that could make for great everyday wear.

8. Montblanc 1858 Automatic (ref. MB119907)

One thing I’ve always found interesting about Montblanc is, for the most part, people know them as the luxury pen manufacturer and tend to disregard their watches which is a shame because, within the Montblanc 1858 line, there are some very neat timepieces.

The Montblanc 1858 Automatic is a timepiece inspired by the professional Minerva watches of the 1920s and 30s, originally produced for military use and exploration.

The 40mm polished and satin case sits in a sweet spot for most wrist sizes. The large crown and cathedral hands give the 1858 a true early 20th-century design language that is seen in timepieces of the first world war.

The 1858 has an MSRP of $2,670 and harkens back to the days Hemingway waxed poetic about and a time when the spirit of adventure was beckoning. 

9. Bremont Broadsword “Dirty Dozen”

The Bremont Broadsword “Dirty Dozen” is the first watch on our list to tackle a modern interpretation of the famous and beloved “Dirty Dozen” watches of WWII.

For those who might not know the nomenclature, the “Dirty Dozen” is the nickname given to a group of twelve watches commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD). Produced by twelve different Swiss watch manufacturers, the “Dirty Dozen” were meant to be tough, durable, and reliable.

The Broadsword, a modern interpretation of the “Dirty Dozen”, has a two-piece stainless steel case that is both polished and satin-finished with a diameter of 40mm. Much like the Montblanc 1858, it is a great-sized timepiece.

One of the characteristics of a “Dirty Dozen” styled military timepiece is the sub-seconds register at six o’clock. The Broadsword has a beautifully laid-out dial and is a great modern version of a military classic.

Powered by the first chronometer-certified movement on our list, the Broadsword retails for $3,445 and is the perfect companion for binge-watching Band of Brothers over a long weekend.

10. Oris ProPilot Altimeter (ref. 01 793 7775 8734-Set)

Oris is a company that always seems to amaze me. They are one of the few independent watch manufacturers who give us timepieces at a large volume without sacrificing quality, design, and, most importantly, innovation.

The ProPilot Altimeter is a perfect example of the innovation that Oris brings to the consumer. The ProPilot Altimeter is in its second generation and is the world’s only watch to combine a mechanical altimeter with an automatic movement. The Altimeter is equipped with a pressure box that can accurately gauge your altitude up to 19,700 feet.

While it has a case diameter of 47mm, the ProPilot Altimeter is made of a carbon fiber composite, meaning it only weighs 98 grams! To put that in perspective, a Rolex Submariner, which is six to seven millimeters smaller in diameter, depending on the reference, weighs 155 grams. The Altimeter is a unique watch, most certainly for the pilot in your life, and retails for $6,500. 

11. Sinn EZM 10 TESTAF

For those who have read any of my other articles, you will know that I am a self-proclaimed Sinn fanboy. While I do understand why some might not be into the Teutonic, stoic, and almost surgical aesthetic, it definitely rings my bell.

The Sinn we will be discussing today, the EZM 10 TESTAF, is the first watch to be tested and certified to the Technical Standard for Pilot Watches, better known as TESTAF, hence the name.

This means that the pilot’s chronograph, whose bead-blasted titanium case with a diameter of 46.5mm, lug-to-lug distance of 53.2mm, and a case thickness of 15.6mm, meets all time measurement requirements of a professional pilot.

Like many of Sinn’s other premium offerings, the case is Tegimented to ensure maximum durability. It is also water resistant to 200m, uses Ar-Dehumidifying Technology, and has a mission-timer design for great legibility.

The Sinn EZM 10 TESTAF retails for $5,290 and might just be the most McGuyver watch on our list.

12. Accutron Astronaut “T” (ref. 2sw8a002)

The Accutron Astronaut “T” is a rather unique watch on our list due to it being the first watch on the list created specifically for, as the name would suggest, the US Space Program.

While the original Astronaut made its debut in 1960 with the use of some revolutionary technology, the tuning fork movement, the new limited edition of only 300 pieces is powered by a Sellita SW-330 and still offers the same great GMT functionality as the original. The Astronaut has a case diameter of 41mm and a case thickness of 13.8mm. 

The standout feature of the Astronaut, unlike the physical features we’ve seen on other watches from this list, is the history and use of the timepiece by the CIA. Due to the accuracy of the Astronaut, the CIA equipped its pilots of the then uber-secret and ultra-fast A-12 spy plane with the timepiece, which for history and watch nerds is awesomely cool.

The Astronaut has an MSRP of $3,500 and is a great way to get 60s space-age timepieces into the collection. 

13. Tudor Pelagos FXD (ref. M25707B/23-0001)

It is safe to say that this list would not be complete without the timepiece that set the watch world ablaze when it was released in 2021, the Tudor Pelagos FXD.

The FXD is the modern variation of the Tudor Snowflake, which we will discuss later in this article. As a modern interpretation of a classic, it is made with modern materials and in a modern size.

The FXD has a case constructed of titanium and has a diameter of 42mm, a case thickness of 12.75mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 52mm. While the length may seem a bit long, it is worth mentioning that, like the CWC 1980, the case with integrally designed fixed spring bars allows the watch to flare across the wrist more than traditional spring bars.

The Tudor Pelagos FXD retails for $4,100, and with their historic collaboration with the Marine Nationale, Tudor has created a true purpose-driven tool watch that has a great story to tell your dinner guests when you inevitably find yourself in awkward silence.

14. CWC Pilot Chronograph Limited Edition Valjoux 7733

As the second CWC entry on our list, the Pilot Chronograph with the Valjoux 7733 is probably one of the more rare watches on our list. Limited to only 100 pieces, CWC actually recommissioned the vintage original movements making the Pilot Chrono that much more special.

Similarly to the Benrus Type I, the Pilot Chronograph has an asymmetrical case design with a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, and a case thickness of 12mm.

This compact chrono is a great reissue of the first watch contract awarded to CWC by the MoD.

With a price of around $6,500, the CWC Pilot Chronograph Valjoux 7733 is a history nerd’s dream and a great addition to any collection.

15. Breitling Chronospace Military (ref. M78367101B1W1)

The Breitling Chronospace Military might be one of our list’s most unique watches due to its analog and digital capabilities. Unlike any watch on our list so far, the Chronospace is powered by the Breitling Caliber 78 SuperQuartz movement, which is COSC-certified.

The stainless steel DLC-coated case has a diameter of 46mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 56.5mm, and a case thickness of 15.5mm, which means this behemoth of a timepiece is ready for large-wristed individuals who can handle its size.

The Chronospace comes equipped with a chronograph, digital calendar, alarm, second timezone, and UTC world time.

With an MSRP of $6,200, it is safe to say that the Chronospace will have you prepared for anything your day-to-day can throw at you.

16. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph U.S. Navy Squadrons

IWC introduced its first pilot’s watch 87 years ago in 1936 and has since embodied what it means to be a pilot’s watch. With unbelievable legibility, build quality, and the use of unique materials, the IWC Pilot’s Chrono U.S. Navy Squadron is a perfect reminder of what IWC does really well.

The Navy Squadron line of pilot’s chronographs comes in three very distinct flavors to honor three different Naval Squadrons. There is a watch for the Royal Maces, the Tophatters, and the most famous, the Blue Angels.

All three watches share the same dimensions with a case diameter of 44.5mm and a case thickness of 15.7mm and are powered by the in-house caliber IWC 69380, which has a power reserve of 46hrs.

Each watch has a unique color scheme and, most notably, uses a ceramic case. The Royal Maces has a black case with yellow accents and a squadron badge, the Tophatters has a black case with red accents and a squadron badge, and lastly, the Blue Angel variant comes in a blue ceramic case with yellow accents and a squadron badge.

These incredible pilot’s chronographs have an MSRP of $11,200. 

17. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms “Nageurs de Combat” (ref. 5015E-1130-B52A)

Much like many brands on this list, Blancpain is a brand that needs no introduction. They have carved their name into the history books. Not only are they the oldest watch brand on earth, but they, along with Rolex and Zodiac, produced the first ever commercially available dive watch in 1953.

The “Nageurs de Combat” in the name translates to “Combat Swimmers”, and this limited edition of 300 pieces is the perfect tribute to Blancpain’s long-time collaboration with the French Military.

With a case diameter of 45mm, a case thickness of 15.6mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 50.6mm, this large military-inspired timepiece is best suited for those with larger wrists, but due to the relatively short lug-to-lug, comparatively speaking, it will work fine on a number of wrists.

The “Nageurs de Combat” is powered by a Blancpain 1315 and retails for $16,300.

18. Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech™ (ref. PAM00961)

The name Panerai has always been synonymous with military use. Anyone who knows the brand’s history knows that since the first prototype of the now famous Panerai Radiomir in 1935 for the Italian Navy, Panerai has been pushing out larger-than-life tool watches for those enamored with 80s and 90s action flicks.

The Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech is, in typical Panerai fashion, a large, oversized watch for an oversized man and is limited to a mere 33 pieces. 

The Submersible comes in at a whopping 47mm, with a lug-to-lug of 56.5mm and a case thickness of 16mm. The case is constructed of Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech material, which is a carbon fiber-based material with an uneven matte black appearance, giving it a very stealthy look.

The matte black case, coupled with the OD Green handset, markers, subdial, and rubber strap, make this Submersible legible and strikingly masculine.

It is powered by the Panerai P9010, which has a three-day power reserve, and it retails for an astounding $39,100

19. Omega RAF CK2292

The Omega RAF CK2292 marks the spot on our list where we move from discussing new and modern watches to discussing vintage timepieces. With that said, I will not include the price for the remaining watches on the list.

The Omega RAF CK2292 is likely different from other pilot’s watches you’ve seen in that it has a white dial. While there are a number of companies who produce white-dialed pilot’s timepieces, it is rare, and you’re more likely to find black-dialed (obviously) pilot’s watches.

The story goes that at the beginning of WWII, the RAF wanted a pilot’s watch with Arabic numerals, railroad markers on the dial, and a white face for legibility in low-light situations.

Omega answered the call with the CK2292, and the rest is military history.

The CK2292 is a small watch at 33mm. But, the perfectly proportioned dial with Arabic numerals and blued handset make this a highly legible watch for anyone looking to snag a piece of history for themselves.

20. Smiths W10 Military Watch

The Smiths W10 is a watch that is loved by enthusiasts due to its application in the field. Being a field watch, it was tested day in and day out by the soldiers who wore it. The Smiths W10 truly is the real deal when it comes to British watchmaking at its finest. 

The 35mm W10 is a classic example of a highly legible, durable, and reliable military timepiece. Its matte black dial has a somewhat traditional pilot-style dial, with Arabic numerals, railroad track markers along the outer edge, and sword hands. 

But what makes this watch uber cool is the “Made in England” printed at the bottom of the dial and the Broad Arrow insignia, identifying it as property of the Ministry of Defense, just above.

21. Omega “Weems” CK2129

The Omega “Weems” CK2129 is a timepiece that has a very storied history when it comes to being used by Spitfire pilots during WWII.

Originally introduced in 1940, the CK2129 was given the “Weems” nickname after the watch’s designer Philip van Horn Weems.

The “Weems” has a case diameter of 33mm, very small by today’s modern watch standards, and much like the RAF CK2292 we featured earlier on our list, the light dial with black printing was meant to be highly legible.

One really unique design feature of the “Weems” is the second crown at the 4 o’clock position, which acts as a locking mechanism for the free-turning bi-directional bezel. This interesting solution was created due to the pilot’s utilizing the bezel for navigation or mission timing purposes.

So, if you’ve got a smaller wrist and still want to feel like Tom Hardy in Dunkirk, the “Weems” is the watch for you.

22. Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner Marine Nationale ref. 9401

Making its second entry on our list, this time vintage, we will discuss Tudor and the Marine National ref. 9401.

The Marine Nationale ref. 9401, known colloquially as the “Snowflake”, was introduced in 1975 to replace the Tudor “Snowflake” ref. 7016, which was introduced at the end of the 1960s.

The 9401 was marked with “TUDOR M.N.” on the caseback to signify its use by the Marine Nationale or French Naval Divers.

The 9401 was produced until the 1980s and was in service with the French Navy until the early part of the 2000s.

While there could probably be a long article written about the Tudor “Snowflake” and their partnership with the Marine Nationale, this is just a high flyby, but it is safe to say that the relationship between Tudor and the Marine Nationale might just be one of the most significant in horological history. 

23. Omega Seamaster 300 British Royal Navy ref. 165.024

The original Omega Seamaster 300 was released in 1957, a few years after Blancpain and Rolex released the Fifty Fathoms and Submariner, respectively.

But, in 1964, the Seamaster 300 was redesigned and, in turn, found more success than the previous generation ever had. Gone were the days of the smaller 39mm case and thin bezel.

Dimensionally the Omega 300 increased only a few millimeters to 42mm, but. The big standout feature was the bezel and dial design. The new thicker bezel was fully graduated, and the broad arrow handset was replaced with large sword hands.

The watch was issued to the British Royal Navy until it was no longer produced in 1970. 

For those who love Omega, like me, it is easy to see the influence of the Seamaster 300 in new, more contemporary timepieces like the Planet Ocean.

24. Rolex Submariner “MilSub” ref. 5517

The Rolex “Milsub” 5517 is, for some watch enthusiasts, the purest form of tool watch expression ever produced, and, funnily enough, it was the watch to replace the previous watch on our list, the Omega 300.

To some, the 5517 might just look like another variation of the venerable Submariner, but to those who know their history, the 5517 is definitely on the Mount Rushmore of timeless and awe-inspiring timepieces.

Much like the Tudor “Snowflake” and the (Spoiler Alert) upcoming Rolex Submariner COMEX ref. 5514, the 5517 Milsub could have an entire article written about it, including every detail of how it came to be, who wore them, and what they go for at auction today.

But in an attempt to not get lost in the minutia of the 5517, I want to look at it from a design perspective.

This, in my mind, is a perfectly designed watch. It was designed to function as a tool, to be purpose-driven, and it does just that. In typical Submariner fashion, the 5517 is 40mm in diameter, but what sets the “Milsub” apart from your run of the mill Submariners is the fully graduated bezel, use of sword hands, and the use of fixed spring bars.

Again, all of these were used in order to make the 5517 as functional as possible. Especially the fixed spring bars. Like some watches we’ve discussed earlier, eliminating a failure point is a way to ensure that the watch remains fixed to the wearer’s wrist.

While I can continue to wax poetic about the PERFECT Submariner, I will resist the need and urge you all to read about the 5517 and all its glory.

25. Rolex Submariner COMEX ref. 5514

As we discussed with the 5517, Rolex and, to a degree Tudor have created the most important relationships with armed forces in all of watch history. They have been on the wrists of some of the most badass guys to ever walk the Earth, and that is why we love them. 

But in a strange twist of fate, one of the Holy Grails of Rolex collecting doesn’t really have a connection to the military or iconic Hollywood figure.

Instead, it has a connection to COMEX, pioneers in industrial diving, badasses in their own right, so infatuated with going deeper and deeper that in partnership with Rolex created the first ever HEV or Helium Escape Valve, which allowed divers to have a proper tool on their wrists while working in the harshest of environment.

COMEX is a company that helped push Rolex to its limits and squeezed every last ounce of performance out of their timepieces. It is safe to say that the modern Rolex line would not be what it is today without the help of COMEX.

26. Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission ref. V32395101B1X1

Featuring a combination of shock resistance and lightweight design, this Avenger Automatic from Breitling is great for on-the-go lifestyles. I personally love it for the rich black dial and the durability of all of the materials involved.

It’s Swiss-made, which means it comes with a quality you can trust. You should also know that this watch comes with an impressive water resistance of 300 meters. I have to point out that the case material impressed me, donning DLC-coated titanium. In short, the watch won’t be prone to any kind of easy breakage.

I find myself categorizing this watch as a stellar blend of style and functionality. It definitely leans more toward the outdoor look. However, understanding the ins and outs gives the watch an entirely new look. 

Breitling didn’t cut any corners here, and they really caught my eye with this watch due to its functionality and bold design choices. If the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 sounds like a fit for you, the watch can be found retailing for $5,400 right now.

PARTING THOUGHTS

To keep it brief, I will end with this. Enthusiasts of this crazy obsession we call watch collecting are attracted to, like so many other things in life, the bold, unique, and adventurous. The things we always hope to be as children. 

So, it goes without saying that the watches that truly grab our attention, the ones that make us daydream, the ones we have as screen savers or backgrounds, those watches have a rich history of adventure and intrepidness, and I’m willing to bet that for most of us, they are military watches, built for the toughest of all adventures.

The reliability and ruggedness of field watches have made them some of the most popular timepieces on the market. The average field watch is versatile and stylish, making it great for everyday wear. Don’t be deceived by the minimalist designs most of them have; some cost several thousands of dollars.

These types of timepieces have been around for hundreds of years and were initially designed for people in the military and pilots. Many people have found them useful in other aspects and have since adopted the style. There are many field watches from various brands, so choosing the best to suit your needs might be difficult. 

This is a guide to the best field watches across various brands, from affordable to luxury. 

About Field Watches

Field watches are known for their functional designs, rugged build quality, and very readable dials. They carry this look because of the initial purpose of the invention, which was for military use.

Watches have always been seen as ornaments solely for beautifying the wearer. The world war came, and they became more than an object for beauty. Field timepieces were originally called trench watches, and their history dates back to the 20th century during the first world war.

Soldiers needed access to time on the battlefield, and the use of pocket watches on the front line slowed them down, so they decided to have them tied to their wrists. Watchmakers noted this and decided to design watches fit to withstand the tough conditions at the war front, and field watches were invented.

Field watches have evolved from being worn by people in the military to a timepiece that could be styled up or down. They are now worn on different attires as no one is worried about wearing a corporate watch on a suit and tie; the requirements for fashion are now looser.

What Makes Field Watches Special?

Durability

I will think twice before jumping into the pool with my $20,000 luxury Patek Philippe, even if it has 100 meters of water resistance written on it, but I won’t cringe if I have a field watch on. They were originally built to withstand war activities, and they still maintain those qualities to date. They are resistant to water, shock, and dust.

Versatility

These watches look great on any outfit. They look amazing on shorts and t-shirts at the barbecue, and you will smash that look if you dress them up with your suit and tie.

Easy and Functional Design

Unlike your regular timepiece, every feature or design on a field watch is added to make the watch function better than the average watch. The dial and numerals are legible and easy to read, and the case and straps are built with some of the most rigid materials to withstand harsh conditions.

Style

Most field watches today are upgrades of previous models from hundreds of years ago, and they maintain that classic and timeless design that ceases to go out of style. 

What to Look for in Field Watches

If you are interested in field watches, there are a few things to consider before making that purchase.

Rugged Build

It is most likely a bad choice if it doesn’t look like a watch that could be worn daily. A field watch must possess the qualities of a daily beater. They are mostly cased with stainless steel or titanium and NATO straps for comfort on the wrist and durability. 

Water Resistance

The watch’s water resistance is one of the qualities that makes it suitable for the field. To withstand water pressure, some are built with up to 100 meters of water resistance, and a very good one can have more than 200 meters.

Movement

For easy control, field watches use uncomplicated movements like quartz and mechanical. They are very easy to operate and require little maintenance.

Legibility

Reading the numerals on a field watch should be easy, even in the dark. Most of them come with lume dials that glow when it’s dark to make them usable at all times.

Price

Just like every other timepiece, field watches have different prices, depending on the features and build of the timepiece. Some quality ones could be bought for a few hundred dollars, while the top-tier ones cost thousands.

Now that you understand field watches and how to sight a good one, this is a list of my favorites across all brands.

The Best Field Watches

Timex Expedition North Field Mechanical (ref. TW2V41700JR)

I have styled this classic timepiece with different attires, and I’m still in awe of its versatility. The Timex Expedition has all the qualities to be called a field watch. It has a stainless steel case covered with sapphire crystals, a black dial with glow-in-the-dark markers, and hands. It carries hand-winding mechanical movement and a 100 meters water resistance.

This field watch has a 38mm case size for both big and small wrists. The NATO strap used makes it fit for every activity, from working out to being styled up. The Timex Expedition is functional, stylish and offers much value at $295.

Citizen Garrison (ref. BM8180-03E)

The Citizen Garrison is an Eco-drive watch with rugged qualities fit for everyday wear. It has a 37mm steel case with very clear numerals on the black dial and a day-date feature at 3 o’clock.

This timepiece is powered by the in-house Citizen Eco-Drive technology that uses light as its source of power, and this feature makes the watch fit for any field activity as it doesn’t require any battery or winding for it to function. It is sold for between $100-$200.

Timex Expedition North Field Post Mechanical

An American brand through and through, Timex has made many military watches over the years, giving them experience with the utilitarian field watches we now look at today. The Expedition North Field Post Mechanical features a 23-jewel, manually wound mechanical movement and a nonreflective sapphire crystal, all fitted within a stainless steel case that resists water pressures of 100m. 

Timex prides itself on making eco-friendly watches, and this one is no different. Equipped with zero-batter leather, reduced battery-generated waste, and post-consumer plastics, its innovative stride to ensure that the watch is beneficial to the environment, as well as the consumer, is highly respectable.

The stainless steel case measures 38mm, with the 20mm Ecco DriTan leather strap. The dial is extremely simplistic, with a neutral white and bold black font to ensure high legibility. 

Overall this watch is quite a steal, only costing $229.

Seiko 5 Field Sports Style SRPG35

In addition to all the classic features of a field watch, this timepiece has a modern touch that makes it fit every function and outfit. It has a case diameter of 39.4mm, which fits most wrists. The Seiko 5 Field Sport watch is cased in stainless steel with a steel bracelet also. 

It has the Seiko 4R36 automatic movement, which is popular for its reliability and accuracy, as well as a 41-hour power reserve. If you’re looking for a field watch that will make you appear confident and stylish, the Seiko 5 Field Sports watch is a good pick, and it is currently sold for $295. 

BOLDR Venture Carbon Black

Titanium watches have always stood out for me, and at $300, this timepiece offers good quality. Not only is this BOLDR field watch affordable, but it’s also very light and stylish. 

Its 38mm case is made of titanium with a super lume coating on the markers and hands of the dial. It comes in Navy Blue, Jungle Green, and Carbon Black colors. The strap of the Venture Carbon is a tough nylon designed for any condition. The NH35A automatic Japanese movement powers it and has a water resistance of 200 meters.

Victorinox Swiss Army Heritage (ref. 241972)

The inspiration for the heritage collection dates back to the 20th century, to the watches made for the Swiss army during the World War. This vintage-styled watch is one of the most popular in the collection. At 40mm, the stainless steel case sits perfectly on my 8-inch wrist, and it is also coated with a black PVD. The green dial and black nylon fabric strap give it a unique and durable look.

The Heritage 241972 is powered by the Swiss quartz movement with a 100 meters water resistance. The green dial makes it a perfect fit for both men and women that fancy a unique timepiece with the features of a daily beater. For a Swiss timepiece, the Victorinox Swiss Army Heritage offers good value at $375.

Bulova Hack Watch Black Dial (ref. 98A255)

The unique feature of the Bulova Hack watch is its ability to stop and control the second hand, making it possible to make the time as accurate as possible. It is a perfect feature for professionals like pilots, doctors, engineers, and others who need an accurate time up to the exact second.

It has a 38mm steel case with a 10mm case thickness that sits well on a medium-sized wrist. The Bulova automatic movement powers the Hack watch with a 30-meter water resistance. This timepiece is currently sold for $380.

Marathon Sage Green General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003SG)

The Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (GPM) is the definition of a watch built to take some serious beating. The timepiece was inspired by the watches issued to US military officers in the 1980s. It’s a cool and stylish timepiece designed with some of the toughest materials. It has a case made of high-impact fiber with a steel core, which makes it resistant to corrosion and shock. It has a sage green dial that fits perfectly with the tough green nylon strap. 

It uses the Japanese Seiko NH35A automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 30 meters. Its 34mm case size and 11mm case thickness make it suitable for a small wrist, and at $450, the Marathon Sage Green General Purpose Mechanical will surely put a smile on your face without breaking the bank.

CWC G22 Automatic

The CWC G22 uses the Sellita SW200-1 movement, popularly known for its accuracy and reliability. For around $500, it’s a relatively affordable watch for its sophistication. This timepiece was originally designed for the British army, and it is still in use by some of its units to date. 

It has a case diameter of 38.5mm and a case thickness of 11.5mm. It’s mostly compared with the Hamilton Field Mechanical watch because of the similar designs, but the movement of the CWC G22 makes it a more durable timepiece. 

Nodus Sector Field Marina

The blue dial of this timepiece gives it personality, which I like very much. The dial has features like bold numerals, a 24-hour military tracker, and a date function. This timepiece has a screw-down crown with a very tough case back and up to 150 meters of water resistance. Its case diameter measures 38mm, which makes it a fit for most wrists, and it also has a stainless steel bracelet that complements the steel case.

The Seiko NH35 automatic movement powers it, and it comes with a 41-hour power reserve. The Nodus Sector Field Marina is a timepiece built to last, and it’s also a good choice if you want a shiny watch that will make you look sharp and stylish. It is currently sold for $450.

Glycine Combat 6 Vintage Black (ref. GL0459)

Looking at this timepiece, you can tell the design was well thought out and put together. The combination of a vintage design and modern features makes it a total eye-catcher. The 43mm stainless steel case size of the Vintage Black gives it a bold look that’s fit for confident people. The black fabric used for the strap complements the black dial and well-polished steel case.

The movement of this timepiece is based on the Sellita SW200-1, the GL224 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. The big case and bold fonts make it a watch I will recommend for confident people who want a field watch with some style. It is currently worth $595. 

Luminox Atacama Field Day Date 1929

This is a modern watch, and its features differ from other field watches. The Luminox Atacama is set apart by the Tritium illumination it comes with. Tritium is a radioactive gas that releases light for up to 25 years, so this watch can’t lose its glow; this feature makes it a timepiece fit for long night activities on the field. It has a steel case that measures 45mm in diameter with a case thickness of 13mm. And as the name implies, there’s also a day and date feature on the dial.

It has a Swiss quartz movement and a 200 meters water resistance. Its leather strap makes it styleable on casual outfits and your suit and tie. It’s a bit pricey, but its modern features make it worth every dollar. If you are looking for a field watch that is rugged and with modern features that will last you for many years, I recommend the Luminox Atacama Field Day Date 1929 watch for you. It sells within the range of $650-$950.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

If you are looking for a classic military watch with a touch of modernity, this timepiece is for you. It is powered by the manual winding H-50 movement with an 80-hour power reserve, which means it can last for more than 2 days without winding.

It has a stainless steel case measuring 38mm in diameter with a 9.5mm thickness and a green NATO strap that gives it a functional look. However, it is inspired by the field watches used in the 20th century by the military. The Hamilton Khaki Field timepiece doesn’t look like a watch that will go out of style for many years to come. It is currently sold for around $495. 

Vaer A5 Field Auto 40mm Black

Vaer watches have a very solid look that I love to see in watches, and the A5 field timepiece is one of my favorites. It has a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter with a 10.4mm thickness. It has a black dial with white numerals that are very easy to read. It’s a light watch at 74 grams, making it sleek and comfortable on the wrist. 

It is controlled by the famous Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve and a 100 meters water resistance. It is better styled on casual outfits and field clothes. For $549, you can lay your hands on one of these.

Benrus DTU-2A/P Field Watch

The rugged build of the DTU-2A/P timepiece and the not-so-fancy designs made it a favorite among US military soldiers in the 1960s, and this reissue holds most of its original features and a couple of new ones. It has a 39mm case made of 316L stainless steel and covered with acrylic crystals. This watch has a black dial and a 24-hour scale with numerals and indices. 

The SW200-1 automatic movement used in this timepiece is an upgrade from the previous models that were hand-wound. The addition of a green NATO strap also gives it a modern touch that can be styled casually or for fieldwork. It has a water resistance of 50 meters and is currently sold for $595.

Orient Star Mechanical Sports Watch (ref. RE-AU0201E)

This mechanical sports watch is a beauty to behold, and it is also built to last. One feature that stands the Orient Star Mechanical Sports watch out from most field timepieces is its use of a large chrysanthemum-shaped crown that makes operating it very easy, even when you have gloves on while working. 

It has a 41mm case diameter made of stainless steel and sapphire crystals with an anti-reflective coating. The case back is also made of crystal glass, giving you a view of all the mechanics. Its dial consists of both Arabic numerals and indexes.

It is powered by automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve, and it has a water resistance of up to 100 meters. It comes with a well-polished leather strap that makes it fit for casual and corporate wear. The Orient Star RE-AU0201E is priced at $595 currently. 

Formex Field Automatic Charcoal 41mm (ref. 0660.1.6523.121)

From its case to the dial and strap, the Formex Field Automatic Charcoal reflects serious toughness. Its 41mm case is built with grade 2 titanium treated with a special hardening substance to make it a lot harder so it can withstand a serious beating. 

And despite its hardness, it maintains the usual light weight associated with titanium timepieces. The markers and numerals are inscribed into the charcoal dial, giving the dial a vintage and elevated look.

The Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement powers it with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 150 meters. This field watch comes in leather, rubber, and NATO straps, depending on your preference. Buying this timepiece with all the straps allows you to use the timepiece for casual, corporate, and field purposes. At $845, the Formex Field Automatic Charcoal timepiece offers great value.

Zodiac Olympos STP 1-11 (ref. ZO9713)

I find watches with history very amazing because they reflect years of continuous improvement in design. This Olympos watch is a great redesign of the original Zodiac Olympos used by British military officers in 1961. The STP 1-11 comes with some serious modern improvements. Its 40mm case is made of 316L stainless steel, and the dial is gray or green. Its strap is made of brown leather with a prong buckle.

It is powered by the SWISS STP 1-11 automatic movement with a 200 meters water resistance. The Olympos STP 1-11 is a very comfortable watch that can be styled up and down. It is currently priced at $895.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Matte Dark Blue (ref. AL-525NN4S6)

Do you know what sounds much cooler than flying a plane? It’s the Alpina Startimer Pilot watch. Pilot watches are known for their usual style and class, but this timepiece turns it up a notch with modern designs. It has a very bold 44mm stainless steel case with sapphire crystal that’s both anti-reflective and scratch-proof. The watch’s dial is matte dark blue and very readable, and the genuine black leather strap complements it. 

Inside this timepiece is the AL 525 movement with a power reserve of 38 hours and a 100 meters water resistance. Whether styled with a suit and tie or with shorts and tees, the Alpina Startimer timepiece will surely turn heads. It is currently priced at around $1000.

Accutron Legacy Railroad (ref. 2SW6B001)

For many years, pocket timepieces were the only watches approved by the railroad. Accutron watches were among the first set of timepieces approved by the North American Railroad, mainly because of the special tuning fork movement, which was very accurate compared to others in the 1960s. The Legacy 2SW6B001 is a total upgrade with the addition of the automatic ETA 2824-2 movement. 

This silver-toned stainless steel timepiece has a case diameter of 34mm with a case thickness of 12.5mm. Its strap is made of leather with a double-press deployant closure. It’s a perfect watch for smart and active gentlemen. For a limited edition watch, it offers good value at $1,290.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Day Date (ref. 01 752 7698 4164-07 5 22 14FC)

Like the Alpina Startimer, this timepiece perfectly combines classic style and modern sophistication. But what sets it apart from other pilot watches is the modification of the Sellita SW200-1 automatic, which has been updated with a big day and date function. Its 45mm case is made of stainless steel, and it comes in two bracelet versions.

One comes with olive green straps and a steel clasp, and another with a full steel bracelet. It is powered by the 752 Oris movement with a water resistance of 100 meters. If you are looking for a pilot watch that’s functional and classy, this is a great choice for you. It currently costs $1,750.

Weiss 38mm Standard Issue Field Watch

This is a very stylish timepiece, and it’s also built to last long. Cameron Weiss’ dive into the Pacific Ocean inspired its creation, and this hand-designed masterpiece is everything you expect from a great field watch. 

It has a case size of 36mm, built with stainless steel, with a 9.2mm thickness. The sapphire crystal back is well secured with four 316L steel hex screws. The crystal front is covered with a multi-layered anti-reflective coating. It also comes with different designs of handmade straps, and you can choose any design while purchasing.

It has the Weiss Caliber 1005 mechanical movement with a 42-hour power reserve. This field watch is a great choice that can be styled up or down. Its water resistance is 100 meters, and it is currently sold for $2,000.

Sinn 856 UTC

The Sinn 856 UTC is a definition of a modern timepiece; it embodies the characteristics of a watch meant for various activities. The 856 UTC has a dual time zone feature, which makes it possible for you to know the time in two different timezones. It also has magnetic field protection, which protects the watch and, most especially, the balance spring from functioning incorrectly due to the influence of magnetic fields. 

The German watch has a case size of 40mm and 11mm thick, and is made of stainless steel. It comes in leather, stainless steel, and silicone strap versions. It is powered by the SW 330-1 self-winding mechanism with a 200 meters water resistance.

This watch is for people constantly traveling across countries with different timezones. It’s also a timepiece that can be styled with different outfits and will make a statement. The Sinn 856 UTC is sold for around $2,000.

Bell & Ross V1-92 Military (ref. BRV192-MIL-ST/SCA)

The V1-92 military watch is the perfect timepiece for the field, as it is designed with tough materials and no-nonsense colors. Its 38.8mm case is made of satin polished stainless steel, and it has a brown strap made of calfskin with a pin buckle. Its markers and numerals are very visible on the black dial. 

The BR-CAL. 302 automatic movement powers this Bell & Ross timepiece with a power reserve of 38 hours and a water resistance of 100 meters. It’s a great choice for every active person that wants to maintain a great style on the move. The V1-92 military timepiece is currently priced at around $2,400.

Longines Spirit Titanium (ref. L3.810.1.53.2)

This classic timepiece was designed for pilots and explorers in the 1960s, and the Spirit Titanium is a modernized version. It features a titanium case and a bracelet, making it a light watch on any wrist. It has a case diameter of 40mm, which is perfect for both big and small wrists. 

Inside is the Longines Caliber L888 automatic movement with a 64-hour power reserve. It’s a COSC-Chronometer-certified watch with 100 meters of water resistance. It is currently sold for a little less than $3,000.

Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

There is no way I will complete this list without mentioning a Tudor because of how tough they make their watches, even the luxurious ones. The Ranger watch is a versatile watch that can be styled perfectly on any outfit. It has a stainless steel case diameter of 39mm with a satin-brushed steel bezel. The strap is made of stainless steel that has a Tudor T-fit safety catch, and it also comes with extra NATO straps. 

The COSC Certified in-house Tudor MT5402 caliber movement powers it with a 70 hours power reserve. It is built with a bidirectional rotor system and has a 100 meters water resistance. It is a timepiece that offers both luxury and functionality, and at $3,150, this Tudor Ranger offers good quality.

Bremont Broadsword “Dirty Dozen” Black Dial

This is an upgrade from the Dirty Dozen Timepiece issued to soldiers of the British military during the Second World War. Military watches are made to withstand harsh conditions, and the Broadsword watch offers the same standard with some added sophistication. It has a 40mm MOD hardened stainless steel case with an 11.7mm thickness. This Dirty Dozen comes in a NATO strap or a stainless steel bracelet.

The Bremont BE-95-2AV automatic movement powers it, and it is chronometer-certified to ISO 3159 standards. It has a 38-hour power reserve with a 100 meters water resistance. If you love military watches, spending around $3,000 on this timepiece would be a great choice.

Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 (ref. A45330101B1X1)

The tough case, bold dial, and accurate movement make this Aviator 8 the perfect Pilot watch, but it also comes with some features that stand it out from other Pilot watches. Its 41mm case is made of brushed stainless steel, and it has an 11.1mm case thickness. It comes in black or blue dial versions.

Inside it is the Breitling Caliber 45 automatic movement and bidirectional winding. It has a power reserve of over 40 hours with a water resistance of 100 meters. The Aviator 8 is a functional watch that looks good on casual and corporate outfits. It is sold for $4,250. 

IWC Spitfire Automatic (ref. IW326805)

There are four pilot watches on this list for a good reason, and that’s because they have built-in features specifically to cater to the needs of a pilot, and these are also some of the functions needed by most field workers. 

This is an upgrade from the Mark 11 navigation timepiece produced for the British Royal Air Force by IWC in the 1940s. This Swiss watch has a 39mm case diameter with a green textile strap. The attention to detail on this watch is its main distinct feature. Its case is perfectly finished with a very simple dial and clear numerals. 

It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber, with a 120-hour power reserve. This Pilot watch has a 60 meters water resistance, and it is currently sold for around $5,000.

Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.12.40.20.01.001)

The Omega Railmaster timepiece was originally designed for railway workers back in 1957; because of their regular contact with magnetic fields on the tracks, they needed a watch that could withstand it. Other people who worked close to strong electrical fields also used this timepiece. This timepiece is an updated model that carries modern complications.

It has a 40mm case diameter, 12.7mm case thickness, and 100 meters of water resistance. It is both COSC and Master Chronometer Certified, which means it is a watch fit to withstand any activity, and it has a high level of precision. It is controlled by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806. It is currently sold for $5,400.

Rolex Explorer 40 (ref. 224270)

As it should be, the Rolex Explorer is the most expensive timepiece on this list, but it is not just because of the name. This watch embodies the luxurious look of an average Rolex and the tough build of a field watch. The 40mm diameter case is a little bit bigger than the previous Explorer watches, and it also has more technical details.

It is made of Oystersteel, which is the famous proprietary stainless steel alloy by Rolex. The bracelet comes with a 5mm comfort extension that makes it adjustable to fit any wrist size. The watch uses an Oyster folding clasp for extra safety. 

It is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3230 with a power reserve of up to 70 hours. It has a 100 meters water resistance. This timepiece can be styled casually or with corporate attire. The Explorer 224270 offers good quality and value at around $14,000.

Conclusion 

Field watches have been a lot of people’s timepiece preference for years, and that’s because of their versatility and durability. Today, you can find field watches that can suit any taste or budget you have. Whether you need a simple, uncomplicated watch or one with many complications and features, you will surely find a field watch that suits your needs.

How wrong most people are to think that a timepiece is only a mass of cold metal with an escapement gear that makes it tick. How very uninformed are many humans to believe that a watch is only a piece of cogwheel, rack, and pinions strapped to the wrist by a strip of leather, rubber, cloth, or metal.

Watch collecting involves acquiring, researching, and appreciating timepieces for their design, craftsmanship, historical significance, or investment potential. Each watch holds a unique narrative, waiting to be discovered and cherished by those who appreciate the beauty of time.

Collectors are the ones who find joy and fulfillment in sharing these stories, ensuring that the art of watchmaking will forever be celebrated. The desire to collect multiple watches might not make much sense, but the art of collecting watches has more to do with our passion, emotions, experiences, and stories.

Welcome to the world of watch collecting, where we enjoy a range of emotional outbursts from joy, anger, surprise, desire, rejection, and hundreds of other states of mind.

How to Start Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you’re a newbie and want to begin this journey, be warned that watch collecting is a horological rabbit hole. Once you’re in its burrow, it is difficult to extricate yourself. This is because the more you acquire watches, the more knowledgeable you get and the more appreciation and satisfaction you derive.

The Horological universe is very enthralling, and by the time you begin to learn the functions of a tourbillon, chronometer, chronograph, etc, you’ll find yourself head over heels in love with watches. That being said, you need a lot of guidance to build a cohesive and meaningful collection. Here’s the best way to start your watch-collecting journey:

1. Learn Basic Watch Terminology.

No, I’m not saying you should take a certified watchmaking course or become a horology wizard. Learning basic watch technology is as simple as knowing the various terms and concepts used to describe different aspects of watches. 

This knowledge helps in building connections within the watch community and would enable you to discuss specific watch features accurately and precisely. 

You’d also gain valuable insights and information. With the basic watch terminologies at your fingertips, you can identify authentic pieces, distinguish between different watch types, and understand the intricacies of watch collecting.

If you’re not sure which watch terminologies you need to learn, here are a few crucial terms to give you a jumpstart:

• Movement: Also known as a caliber, it refers to the mechanism inside a watch that powers its timekeeping functions. The two primary types are mechanical and quartz movements.

• Dial: The face of the watch where the time is displayed. It usually includes hour markers, minute markers, and hands.

• Hands: The indicators on the dial that show the hours, minutes, and seconds. They are typically made of metal and move to indicate the time.

• Crown: A knob on the side of the watch used for winding the timepiece, setting the time, and adjusting other functions.

• Case: The outer shell of the watch that protects the movement and dial.

• Lugs: Projections on the case where the strap or bracelet is attached. They secure the strap or bracelet to the watch.

• Crystal: The transparent cover that protects the dial. Common materials used for watch crystals include mineral glass, synthetic sapphire, and acrylic.

• Bezel: The ring surrounding the dial. It can be stationary or rotatable and may have markings or other functions, such as calculating elapsed time or measuring distances.

• Strap/Bracelet: The band that holds the watch on the wrist. Straps are typically made of materials like leather, rubber, or fabric, while bracelets are made of metal links.

• Complications: Additional functions or features beyond basic timekeeping. Examples include a date display, chronograph (stopwatch), moon phase indicator, and GMT (dual time zone).

• Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to withstand water without damage. It is often measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres) and indicates the watch’s level of water resistance.

• Power Reserve: The amount of time a watch can operate without being wound or receiving additional power. It is especially relevant for mechanical watches.

2. Decide the Type of Watch You Want

There are several factors to consider when deciding the type of watch you want. The watch market is vast and diverse, with numerous brands, models, and variations available:

• Vintage-inspired watch: These watches often draw inspiration from classic timepiece designs and incorporate elements that evoke nostalgia and charm. 

It’s a type of watch that will be a great option for you if you appreciate history and classic designs. Brands like Omega, Rolex, and Longines have iconic vintage models that have stood the test of time and are highly sought after by established collectors.

If you have access to a real vintage watch, which is a timepiece that is old, antique, or typically from a previous era, say at least 20 to 30 years old, it’s also a good place to start.

Vintage watches embody the craftsmanship and technical achievements of a bygone era. They can offer unique and distinctive designs that may not be commonly found in contemporary watches, plus the scarcity and rarity of specific vintage models makes them highly valuable.

• Dress watch: Now, this type of watch is typically understated, elegant, and suitable for formal occasions. To lay hands on some exceptional dress watches, you might want to try brands like Nomos, Tissot, Hamilton, and Junghans. Look for watches with clean dials, slim profiles, and leather straps.

• Sports watch: You could also try this type of watch. If you prefer a more casual or sporty style, brands like Casio, Seiko, and Citizen offer a wide range of sports watches with features like water resistance, chronograph functions, and robust build quality. 

Additionally, you might consider dive watches like the Seiko SKX007 or the Orient Mako II, which are popular entry-level options.

• Swiss luxury watches: If you’re willing to invest in a higher-end timepiece, Swiss luxury brands like Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, and Breitling are highly regarded for their craftsmanship, heritage, and quality. They offer a wide range of models to suit different tastes and styles.

Ultimately, the type of watch you need depends on your personal preferences, budget, and intended use. Consider trying timepieces in person, researching different models, and exploring various brands to find the one that resonates with you the most. 
When choosing your first timepiece, getting a great all-around, versatile, or multi-purpose watch that will excel in various situations and environments is best. These watches typically combine multiple features and functionalities to cater to a wide range of activities and needs, so they’ll perfectly fit your lifestyle.

3. Set Your Budget

Watches come in a wide range of prices, from affordable options to luxury timepieces. By setting a price range you hope to stick with, you can narrow down your choices.

This saves time and energy by eliminating options beyond what you are willing or able to spend. It will help you make a more thoughtful and informed decision to ensure that your purchase aligns with your financial situation, goals, and values.

Apart from preventing overspending on a watch, it helps you resist the temptation to make a hasty decision that could lead to regret later on. It also encourages thoughtful consideration and evaluation of your options and prevents debt and financial strain.

Why Do People Collect Watches?

Once upon a time, in a small town nestled amidst rolling hills, there lived a man named Ben who lived with his grandfather. Together, they would spend hours tinkering with gears and springs, discussing the craftsmanship and precision required to create these engineering marvels. During those precious moments, Ben’s fascination took root and grew into an insatiable love for watches.

Grandpa passed on, but Ben never forgot how he mesmerized him with the ticking rhythm of his pocket watches. As Ben grew older, his fascination with watches intensified. He spent countless hours immersing himself in the intricate world of watchmaking. 

He soon began collecting watches, and each one held a special place in his heart, symbolizing a unique moment in his life or representing a particular era of craftsmanship. One fateful day, while browsing through a market in a bustling city, Ben stumbled upon a small, nondescript stall. There, hidden amidst a jumble of trinkets, lay a tarnished old pocket watch. 

Its worn exterior showed the signs of time, but something about it caught his eye. He picked it up delicately, feeling an inexplicable connection. As he turned the watch in his hands, a flood of emotions washed over Ben. Memories long forgotten resurfaced, transporting him back to his childhood home. 

He remembered the sound of his grandfather’s laughter, the scent of freshly oiled gears, and the warmth of a loving embrace. This watch, he realized, was the one his grandfather had once owned. Unable to contain his excitement, Ben bought the pocket watch without hesitation. He carefully restored it, breathing new life into its faded beauty. 

With each tick and tock, the watch seemed to tell stories of shared moments between grandfather and grandson. As Ben delved deeper into his grandfather’s legacy, he discovered a hidden compartment within the watch. Inside, he found a worn photograph of his grandfather, a handwritten note. 

The note read, “To my dearest grandson, may this pocket watch always bring back memories of our shared love for horology”.

The watch became Ben’s most prized possession, representing the eternal bond that reminded him that love transcends time and that cherished memories can be captured and treasured forever. 

Each day, he would wind the watch, savoring the synchronized rhythm of its ticking, a harmonious symphony that whispered stories of love and passion. Ben’s collection continued to grow, and he found fulfillment in sharing his story, ensuring that the art of watchmaking would forever be celebrated. 

Through his collection, he not only amassed a wealth of horological masterpieces but also touched the lives of those who heard his tale.

People collect watches because they can be seen as tangible pieces of a story. Many collectors are drawn to timepieces that have played a significant role in horological advancements or have connections to important events or individuals. 

These watches serve as a link to the past and evoke a sense of nostalgia. People also collect watches to enjoy the beauty and elegance they bring to their wrists. Collectors appreciate the engineering and technical mastery involved in the making of each timepiece and also collect watches as a form of financial investment.

A Watch Collector vs A Watch Addict

Now I know it may seem absurd, but there’s such a thing as a watch addict. Being a watch collector without becoming a watch addict requires a balanced approach and mindful decision-making. Watch addiction, like any other addiction, can be detrimental to your health, so I’m quickly going to look at the characteristics of each one side by side.

Watch Collector	Watch Addict
Collectors make a deliberate and mindful approach to acquiring a watch.	An addict has an uncontrollable and obsessive desire to acquire watches.
Collectors set specific goals, such as building a diverse collection, focusing on a particular brand or style, or aiming for rare and valuable pieces. All true collectors carefully curate their collection, selecting pieces that align with their collecting goals and personal taste.	Individuals with watch addiction have no goals and may experience a compulsion to constantly buy new watches, often without considering their financial situation or the value of these time-telling devices.
There is more focus on the quality, craftsmanship, and value of watches over accumulating a large number of timepieces.	Watch addicts do not care about the quality. They just make impulsive purchases driven by the thrill of acquiring new watches or being caught up in the hype or trends.
Collectors tend to have a long-term perspective, focusing on the enjoyment and appreciation of their watches over time. They may view their collection as an investment, both financially and emotionally.	For addicts, acquiring watches becomes the primary goal, and the watches themselves may not hold significant personal, financial, or historical value.
Collectors maintain a healthy balance between their passion for watches and other aspects of life.	The majority of addicts struggle to maintain a healthy balance between their watch-collecting passion and other areas of life. Their obsession with watches can dominate their thoughts and actions, impacting relationships, work, and other important aspects of life.
Collectors make conscious decisions about their spending and maintain self-control to avoid impulsive purchases.	Watch addicts sometimes overspend or accumulate debt in pursuit of their obsession. This can have negative consequences on their overall financial well-being.

If you’re struggling with watch addiction, the first step is acknowledging that you have this problem and that it’s causing negative effects in your life. 

Define your goals for reducing or eliminating your watch addiction and pay attention to the situations, emotions, or events that trigger your desire to buy watches. Is it stress, boredom, or the fear of missing out? By identifying these triggers, you can develop strategies to cope with them in healthier ways.

Share your goal with supportive friends or family members who can help you stay accountable. Seek support when needed, and don’t hesitate to reach out for professional help if you feel it’s necessary.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $500

Starting your collection with watches below $500 is an excellent way to begin. Since the watches are more budget-friendly, you have the opportunity to acquire multiple timepieces without breaking the bank. This way, you can explore different styles, brands, and complications without a significant financial commitment.

You can expect a wide range of options across various styles, brands, and features.

You may not find luxury or high-end Swiss watches in this price range, but there are still many excellent choices available. Here are the best 5 watches under $500.

1. Seiko 5 Sports SRPE55

Seiko was established in 1881 by Kintarō Hattori. The Japanese watch brand is known for its precision, innovation, and craftsmanship, making it a prominent player in the global watch industry. 

The SRPE55 is a specific model within Seiko’s popular Seiko 5 Sports collection. The watch features a round 40.0 × 11.5mm stainless steel case with a brushed and polished finish, giving it a stylish and versatile look.

This reference has a black dial with a textured pattern, giving it depth and visual interest. The dial features applied hour markers and luminescent hands, ensuring good visibility in low-light conditions. It also includes a day-date window at the 3 o’clock position. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, a self-winding mechanical movement, and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

You can get the SRPE55 for around $250 to $300.

2. Orient Kamasu

Orient is a well-established Japanese brand that was founded in 1950. It offers a diverse range of watch styles, including dress, sports, and diving watches, making it popular among watch enthusiasts and casual consumers alike.

The Kamasu is a popular diver’s watch model within Orient’s lineup that draws inspiration from traditional dive watches while incorporating modern design elements. The watch features a stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters (660 feet), making it suitable for recreational diving and water activities. 

It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, allowing divers to track elapsed time underwater accurately, a highly legible dial, and automatic movement. For about $300, you can get the Orient Kamasu Blue RA-AA0002L19A.

3. Tissot PRX Quartz

Tissot is a renowned Swiss watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces since its establishment in 1853. With a rich heritage spanning over a century and a commitment to innovation, a watch from the Le Locle-based is an excellent place to begin.

The PRX, short for “Precision, Robustness, and X-factor,” is a modern reinterpretation of a classic Tissot design from the 1970s. The beautiful watch combines contemporary elements with a vintage-inspired aesthetic, offering a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The case is 40mm in diameter, providing a balanced and comfortable fit on the wrist. The quartz watch also boasts a water resistance rating of up to 100 meters, adding a practical touch to its design.

For $350, you can get the Tissot PRX Ref. T137.410.11.041.00.

4. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm is a versatile and reliable timepiece suitable for collectors who appreciate military-inspired aesthetics, traditional mechanical movements, and a practical yet stylish design.

The Ref. H69439931 features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm, making it suitable for both men and women. The dial of the watch is black with neutral earth tone minute markers and large Arabic hour numerals.

There are no additional complications such as date or chronograph functions on this timepiece, emphasizing the minimalist approach and utilitarian nature of the watch. It is powered by the exclusive caliber H-50 with an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. It also comes on a NATO strap, further enhancing its military-inspired look and comfort.

The watch has an MSRP of $595, but you can usually find it for about $500 if you shop around. 

5. Lorier Falcon Series III

The Lorier Falcon Series III is a line of mechanical watches produced by Lorier Watches, a microbrand based in the United States. The New York-based brand is owned and operated by husband and wife Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega and is known for creating vintage-inspired timepieces. 

The Falcon Series III is the latest iteration of their Falcon line and features several updates and improvements over its predecessors. The watch draws inspiration from classic sports watches of the 1960s and 1970s but has a sporty edge. It comes in a 36mm stainless steel case which is a versatile size suitable for most wrist sizes. 

The lug-to-lug distance is 44mm ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. The dial of the Falcon Series III retains the brand’s signature honeycomb dial, and the hands and hour markers have been coated with luminescent material for excellent low-light visibility. The attention to detail, versatility, and overall build quality are superb.

You can get this amazing, vintage-inspired everyday timepiece for $499.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Under $2000 

Starting your watch collection with watches around $2000 is a great choice because there’s a significant step up in terms of quality and craftsmanship compared to cheaper options. You can expect higher-grade materials, better finishing, and attention to detail in both the case, dial, and movement.

Plus, many renowned watch brands offer entry-level models around the $2000 mark. By starting your collection with timepieces from respected brands, you establish a foundation for your collection and align yourself with the heritage and reputation associated with those brands.

Here are our top picks from this range:

1. Longines Hydroconquest 41 (ref. L3.781.4.96.6)

Did you know that the famous winged hourglass logo from Longines is the world’s oldest trademark? It was internationally registered in 1889 (57 years after the brand was founded) and has remained unchanged for over 130 years now.

The Longines HydroConquest 41 combines the functionality of a dive watch with the refined craftsmanship and heritage of Longines. It offers a versatile and robust timepiece suitable for both everyday wear and outdoor activities, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

The timepiece is designed as a diver’s watch and offers a water resistance of up to 300 meters (1,000 feet). This level of water resistance makes it suitable for recreational diving and various water activities. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 11.90mm.

The bezel is ceramic, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with multiple layers of anti-reflective coating. This reference is powered by the Longines Caliber L888 with 72 hours of power reserve, allowing for extended periods of use without winding.

The watch comes with an MSRP of $1,775.

2. Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date (ref. 01 751 7761 4164-07 3 20 03LC)

Oris is known for its combination of Swiss quality, affordability, diverse collections, independent spirit, and environmental consciousness.

Sized at 41mm, the Pro Pilot Big Date is the perfect balance of dressy and sporty. As its name suggests, one of the notable features of the Big Crown Pro Pilot Big Date is its big date complication. 

Positioned at 3 o’clock, the date display on this watch is larger than a standard date window, providing enhanced visibility. The aviation-inspired watch is designed for professional pilots and thus features a large, easy-to-read dial with prominent hour markers and hands for optimal legibility.

The robust stainless steel case features a coin edge pattern on the bezel inspired by a jet engine, and the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal. Under the hood of the watch is the caliber 751 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.

You can find this amazing Oris watch for $1,900. 

3. NOMOS Glashütte Tangente (ref. 101)

NOMOS Glashütte watches are known for their Bauhaus-inspired design, in-house movements, precision, value for money, and connection to the esteemed Glashütte watchmaking tradition. German watchmaking has a reputation for precision and engineering excellence, and Glashütte upholds this tradition with the Tangente Ref. 101.

The Tangente model is one of the brand’s most iconic and popular designs, making it a sought-after choice for many watch collectors.

The classic watch features a round stainless steel case that has a diameter of 35.0 mm and a height of 6.2 mm. The overall design is characterized by clean lines, simplicity, and functionality leading to a sleek, elegant, very charming, and mesmerizing watch.

The dial of the Tangente Ref. 101 features a minimalist layout, with Arabic numerals juxtaposed with stick hour markers, along with slender hands for hours, minutes, and seconds. The watch is suitable for both formal and casual occasions and is powered by the handcrafted and manually wound Alpha caliber with a power reserve of 43 hours.

The Tangente will run you back about $1,900.

4. Sinn 556 I

Sinn Spezialuhren, commonly known as Sinn, is a renowned German watch manufacturer. The brand is known for producing robust, precise, and functional timepieces that cater to professionals, adventurers, and collectors seeking high-quality watches with exceptional engineering and practical features.

The 556 I is part of Sinn’s 556 series, known for its sleek and minimalist design combined with robust functionality. The watch we have here has a satinized stainless steel case with a diameter of 38.5mm and a thickness of 11mm.  

It is built to be highly durable and waterproof, and pressure-resistant to 200 meters. The design of the glossy black dial emphasizes legibility and simplicity. The Sinn 556 I is equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which offers excellent protection against scratches and impacts.

The watch is powered by an automatic movement, the Swiss Sellita SW200-1, which is one of the most robust and reliable movements you can find.

Depending on where you shop for it, you can get the Sinn 556 I for around $1,500.

5. Doxa Sub 300T Professional (ref. 840.10.351.10)

Doxa watch brand is known for its strong association with diving watches and its commitment to producing timepieces that meet the demands of underwater exploration. The independent Swiss watch manufacturer is renowned for its expertise in creating functional and reliable watches that combine innovative features with avant-garde designs.

The Sub 300T Professional is a renowned dive watch that has gained a significant following among diving enthusiasts and collectors across the globe. Originally introduced in the late 1960s, the iconic timepiece is loved for its robust construction and impressive water resistance rating.

The Ref. 840.10.351.10 features a stainless steel case that measures 42mm in diameter, with a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking elapsed time underwater. One of the standout features of this watch is its exceptional water resistance rating of 1,200 meters.  

The watch also incorporates a helium escape valve, which allows the release of built-up helium during saturation dives, preventing damage to the watch.

It comes with an MSRP of $1,890 on the beautiful stainless steel bracelet.

Best Watches to Start Your Collection Around $5000

Starting a watch collection with watches around $5000 gives you access to a wide range of design options. 

Many renowned watchmakers and luxury brands produce timepieces in this price bracket, ensuring you’re investing in a well-made watch with meticulous attention to detail.

You’ll find timepieces here that can retain their value well and, in some cases, appreciate over time, making them both enjoyable to wear and potentially a good investment.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Omega is a Swiss luxury watch brand with a long-standing reputation for producing highly accurate timepieces. 

Apart from being at the forefront of horological innovation by introducing numerous technological advancements in the watchmaking industry, the brand has been involved in precision timekeeping since the late 19th century.

The Seamaster collection has been a part of the Omega family since 1948 and has gained significant recognition for its association with the James Bond film franchise. The Diver 300M is a professional diving watch designed for underwater exploration and is water-resistant up to a depth of 300 meters (1000 feet). 

The Ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001 features a 42 mm stainless steel case with a blue ceramic bezel and white enamel diving scale. The Master Chronometer-certified watch offers excellent legibility with its wave-patterned dial, inspired by the ocean.

The watch comes with a retail price of $5,900 on the stainless steel bracelet and $5,600 on the matching blue rubber strap.

2. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Tudor was founded in 1946 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf as a more accessible alternative to Rolex watches. The brand is known for producing high-quality Swiss watches that offer a blend of craftsmanship, reliability, and outstanding value for money. 

Its diving heritage, connection to Rolex, and attention to design aesthetics have contributed to the brand’s strong reputation in the watch industry. The Black Bay Chrono draws inspiration from Tudor’s vintage diving watches and has a distinct retro-modern appeal.

The watch features a 41mm steel case with a polished and satin finish, which is both robust and waterproof to 200 meters, making it suitable for diving activities.

The bezel is unidirectional and has a tachymeter scale with silver markings for measuring speed. The dial is clean and highly legible with sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock for 45-minute and small seconds counters, respectively.

The Black Bay Chrono can be yours for $5,450.

3.  Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW231

Grand Seiko is a brand that is celebrated globally for its blend of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, precision, and timeless design. It has earned a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate the brand’s commitment to excellence and its pursuit of perfection.

The Elegance SBGW231 is an elegant dress watch with exceptional beauty and refinement. It is one of the best statement pieces you can add to your collection and measures just 37.3mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.6mm.

The watch is clean and sharp with a highly polished case, hands, and indices, showcasing the brand’s signature “Zaratsu” polishing technique. This technique involves using a special tin plate to achieve an incredibly smooth and mirror-like finish, resulting in a captivating interplay of light and shadow.

It is powered by a caliber 9S64, with a power reserve of 72 hours, and you can purchase it for just $4,300 here.

4. Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 (ref. A32397101B1X1)

Breitling is a Swiss brand that is globally recognized for its collection of professional and tool watches that are specifically designed for various demanding environments. The Breitling Avenger collection is a range of robust and functional watches that combine a bold design with reliable performance.

The case of Avenger Automatic GMT 43 is made of stainless steel, providing durability and resistance to water and corrosion. It has a diameter of 43mm and a thickness of 12.2 mm. 

It is also equipped with a screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance up to 300 meters. The legible dial has a date display at the 3 o’clock position, and a GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) function allows you to track two timezones simultaneously. 

The additional vivid red hand indicates the time in a different time zone, making it convenient for frequent travelers or individuals who need to communicate across different time zones. It is powered by the caliber TECH-217 with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and comes in at a very solid price of $4,300.

5. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC (International Watch Company) is a brand that has established itself as a respected luxury watchmaker. Renowned for its pilot’s watches, Swiss craftsmanship, mechanical expertise, timeless design, and notable collaborations, the Swiss brand has been on fire lately.

The IWC Mark collection pays homage to the original design and functionality of the Mark XI while incorporating modern advancements in watchmaking technology. The Ref.IW328201 is inspired by the iconic Mark II pilot’s watch, first introduced in 1948 for the British Royal Air Force.

The case of the watch has classic dimensions with a diameter of 40mm with a slim profile of 10.8mm, a screw-in crown, and a convenient water resistance of 100 meters.

The layout of the dial is superb, with large Arabic numerals, luminescent hands, and a date display at 3 o’clock. It is powered by an IWC-manufactured movement, the 32111 Caliber, with 164 components and an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.

The Mark XX comes with a retail price of $5,250.

10 Tips & Tricks To Help You On Your Watch Collecting Journey

If you have begun your watch-collecting journey, congratulations! Watch collecting can be an exciting and rewarding hobby for many people, and you’re going to enjoy every bit of it. 

However, it is also a complex and intricate hobby. There are numerous watch brands, models, movements, complications, and historical details to consider. 

Here are a few tips and tricks to provide you with valuable knowledge and expertise to make more informed decisions. 

1. Discover Your Style

To discover your style, learn about different watch styles, brands, and designs. Explore watch magazines, websites, forums, and social media platforms dedicated to watches. This will help you familiarize yourself with various options and understand what appeals to you. Determine if you lean towards classic, vintage, sporty, modern, minimalist, or other styles. Don’t forget factors like size, shape, complications, and movement types. 

If you lead an active lifestyle, you might lean towards sports watches or dive watches. If you prefer a more formal or professional appearance, dress watches might be your preference. 

Consider your needs and choose watches that align with your daily life. It helps to get hands-on experience by visiting watch boutiques and authorized dealers or watch exhibitions to try on different timepieces.

2. Research The Market

Market research is essential for watch collectors as it provides valuable insights into the value, investment potential, rarity, and authenticity of different watches. By staying informed, collectors can make educated decisions that enhance their collections and protect their investments.

Additionally, understanding market trends, popularity, and desirability allows you to make choices that align with your collecting goals and preferences. You can also identify reputable sellers, auction houses, and platforms, ensuring you transact with trustworthy sources. 

3. Save Up For Your Grail Watches

A grail watch is a timepiece you’ve been coveting, yearning for, craving, and drooling over all your watch-collecting life. It’s the haute horology timepiece that is exclusive, rare, highly valuable, and often a limited edition from a reputable brand.

Owning one of these watches sets you apart from other collectors and enthusiasts, as it showcases your discerning taste and appreciation for fine craftsmanship. If you choose wisely and purchase a highly sought-after grail watch, it can potentially provide a financial return in the future.

4. Connect With The Community

Engage with other watch enthusiasts and collectors through online forums, social media groups, or local meetups. Share your thoughts, seek advice, and learn from their experiences. The watch community is an excellent source of inspiration and knowledge.

5. Trust Your Instincts

Ultimately, trust your instincts and choose watches you genuinely love and enjoy wearing. Your style should reflect your taste and personality. Don’t get swayed by trends or others’ opinions if they don’t resonate with you.

6. Mix And Match

Don’t be afraid to try out eccentric styles and designs. Watch purists often have strong opinions when it comes to exploring leather, metal, and NATO straps for vintage watches, but never mind them, my friend. Experiment with different straps or bracelets to change the look of a watch and match your outfits or activities.

7. Buy From Reputable Sources

It’s crucial to buy watches from trusted and reputable sellers. Authorized dealers, established retailers, and reputable online platforms are safer options to ensure authenticity and receive reliable customer service. Be cautious of counterfeit watches and sellers offering deals that seem too good to be true.

8. Build Relationships With Experts.

Connect with experts and watch enthusiasts. Attend watch events, join online communities, or visit watch clubs and forums. Engaging in discussions and seeking advice from experienced collectors can help expand your knowledge and understanding of the watch-collecting world.

9. Keep Records And Documentation

Maintain a record of your watch collection, including purchase dates, prices, and any relevant documentation. This will help you track your collection’s value, provenance, and service history. Proper documentation also adds authenticity and enhances the resale value of your watches.

10. Take Care Of Your Watches

Regularly service and maintain your watches to ensure their longevity and accuracy. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended service intervals and store them properly when not in use. Avoid exposing them to extreme temperatures, water damage, or unnecessary shocks.

Conclusion

Enjoy the Journey. Collecting watches is a hobby that should bring you joy and satisfaction. Take the time to appreciate the craftsmanship, history, and artistry behind each timepiece. The journey of building your collection can be as rewarding as the watches themselves.

In the realm of horology, watch enthusiasts and manufacturers are constantly seeking innovative ways to enhance the aesthetics and durability of timepieces. As technologies and manufacturing techniques evolve and become available in the watchmaking world, one such advancement in this field that has left a large footprint in the industry is the advent of watch coatings. 

Among the most popular are Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) and Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coatings. Both techniques have changed the watchmaking landscape, adding a blend of style, resilience, and functionality to modern timepieces. 

In this article, we will delve into the technical aspects of PVD and DLC coatings, analyze their differences, highlight the pros and cons, and explore other types of watch coatings available in the market. Let’s dive in.

What is PVD Coating?

First, a description: Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a thin-film coating process that involves depositing various materials on the surface of a watch in a controlled environment. This technique ensures a uniform and resilient layer, enhancing the watch’s appearance and performance. 

PVD coating has gained immense popularity in recent years due to its versatility and ability to cater to various consumer preferences in both aesthetics and practical durability and wear. 

Brands across the price and size spectrum from the micro level all the way to the top high-end have models making use of PVD in various applications. At its core, PVD coating enhances a watch’s looks and durability.

The PVD coating process is a meticulously controlled sequence of steps in manufacturing that transforms the watch’s surface, providing it with an additional layer of protection and aesthetic style (color, texture, etc.).

Cleaning and Preparation

Before the PVD coating process can begin, the watch components undergo a thorough cleaning. This step is crucial to remove any contaminants from the watch’s surface, ensuring optimal coating adhesion. A clean surface allows the coating to bond effectively with the timepiece, preventing any imperfections and enabling a uniform appearance.

Pre-Treatment

Once cleaned, the watch components go through a pre-treatment stage. In this step, the watch’s surface is prepared to increase its reactivity, enhancing the coating’s adhesion. Techniques like etching or ion bombardment are commonly employed in this pre-treatment phase to create a suitable surface for the subsequent deposition in the next step.

Deposition

The heart of the PVD coating process lies in the deposition stage. In a vacuum chamber, the watch components are exposed to a vaporized source material. The most commonly used materials in PVD coating are titanium nitride (TiN), zirconium nitride (ZrN), chromium nitride (CrN), and titanium carbonitride (TiCN). Each material offers distinct properties, including color, hardness, and scratch resistance.

The source material is vaporized using various methods, such as arc evaporation, where an electric arc is generated between the source material and an anode (usually made of copper). The electric arc heats the source material to extremely high temperatures, causing it to vaporize and condense on the watch’s surface. 

Another such technique is sputtering, in which Argon gas (an inert gas that won’t chemically react with the target material) is introduced to the vacuum chamber. An electric field is applied, which ionizes the argon gas, creating a plasma. The plasma, containing positively charged argon ions, bombards the cathode surface with high energy. 

As a result, atoms or ions from the cathode (target material) are sputtered or ejected from the surface, traveling through the vacuum chamber to ultimately condense on the watch surface, creating a thin film coating. In either case, this forms a thin film that adheres uniformly, providing the watch with the desired color and properties.

Post-Treatment

In some cases, an optional post-treatment stage may follow the deposition phase. This additional step further enhances the coating’s properties, such as hardness and adhesion. Post-treatment may involve exposing the coated watch to high temperatures or introducing other elements to improve its durability.

What is DLC Coating?

Often erroneously used interchangeably with PVD coating, Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating is, in fact, a subset of PVD coating, which deserves special attention due to its unique properties. 

DLC coatings are primarily composed of carbon, and as the name suggests, they possess diamond-like attributes, such as exceptional hardness and high resistance to abrasion, which are particularly useful in watchmaking for case durability and robustness. 

The DLC coating process is similar to the standard PVD process, with some modifications to achieve the desired properties of the diamond-like carbon layer. Let’s examine this further.

Cleaning and Pre-Treatment

The watch components undergo thorough cleaning and pre-treatment, as with typical PVD coating, to ensure a clean and reactive surface for the DLC coating to be applied.

Deposition

Here in the deposition stage, we see the major breakaway from the standard PVD coating technique. With DLC coating, a carbon-based source material is used instead of the prior materials (ex: titanium nitride, zirconium nitride, chromium nitride, and titanium carbonitride). 

The carbon material is vaporized using various methods, such as plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition (PECVD) or arc evaporation, as described prior. Upon vaporization, the carbon atoms are then ionized and accelerated towards the watch surface, creating a dense and complex carbon layer organized in an amorphous diamond-like structure, giving it diamond-like attributes without the high cost associated with natural diamond material.  

Post-Treatment

DLC coatings often require additional post-treatment to improve their adhesion and hardness. Hydrogenation (introducing hydrogen atoms into the carbon matrix to occupy “vacant” sites within the amorphous carbon structure) is a common post-treatment method that enhances the DLC layer’s properties, making it more stable and less prone to delamination or cracking, as well as enhancing the coating’s ability to stay firmly bonded to the watch surface. 

Differences Between PVD & DLC Coating

Composition

The primary distinction between PVD and DLC coatings lies in their composition. PVD coatings are made of various materials, which allows for a broader spectrum of color options and various degrees of hardness and durability of the finished product. On the other hand, DLC coatings are composed of amorphous carbon, making them exceptionally hard and durable, living up to the “diamond-like” nature as described. 

Hardness

DLC coatings have a superior hardness compared to PVD coatings. Diamond-Like Carbon ranks high on the Vickers hardness scale, giving watches with DLC coating an added level of scratch resistance and protection against wear. Given the atomic structure of the material, it’s likely that DLC coating will have greater resilience and less tendency to flake or wear off the watch case overall, given the same duration of time.

Thickness

PVD coatings tend to be slightly thicker than DLC coatings, which can impact the final aesthetics of the watch. While PVD coatings are more visible, DLC coatings create a sleeker, smoother finish. And while we aren’t talking centimeters or inches of difference to the astute collector or those particular with watch thickness and measurements, it’s something to consider.

Color and Aesthetics

PVD coatings offer a wide range of colors, from gold and black to rose gold and bronze. These options cater to diverse consumer preferences and design choices. On the other hand, DLC coatings are predominantly known for their striking black appearance, though some variations like gray DLC also exist.

The stark black color gives DLC-coated watches a contemporary and sophisticated charm, appealing to many watch enthusiasts, and it’s often used in both sporty or military-leaning designs, which pair well with the material in aesthetic and functionality. 

Pros & Cons of PVD & DLC Coating 

Both PVD and DLC coatings have gained popularity in the watch industry for their versatility and ability to provide both functional and aesthetic benefits to watches. Let’s consider the pros and cons you might consider when choosing a timepiece with either treatment.

Pros

• Aesthetic Versatility: PVD coatings allow watchmakers to experiment with various colors, catering to a broader range of consumer preferences and style choices. The striking black appearance of DLC-coated watches exudes a contemporary and sophisticated charm, appealing to many watch enthusiasts.

• Improved Scratch Resistance: The additional layer provided by PVD coatings enhances a watch’s ability to withstand daily wear and tear, preserving its appearance over time. DLC coatings offer an unparalleled level of hardness and scratch resistance, ensuring the watch’s surface remains unmarred for extended periods.

• Cost-Effective: PVD coating is relatively more affordable than DLC, making it accessible to a broader audience of watch enthusiasts.

• Low Friction: The smooth surface of DLC coatings reduces friction, leading to enhanced performance and longevity.

Cons

• Limited Hardness: PVD coatings are not as hard as DLC, making them more susceptible to scratches and wear in the long run.

• Fading Over Time: While PVD coatings are durable, they may fade over extended periods, particularly when exposed to harsh conditions or regular friction.

• Limited Color Options: Unlike PVD coatings, DLC coatings are predominantly black (or gray), limiting the color choices available to consumers.

• High Cost: DLC coating is more expensive than PVD, which can influence the final retail price of DLC-coated watches.

Other Types of Watch Coating

Apart from PVD and DLC coatings, several other watch coating types are available in the market, each with its own distinct attributes.

Ceramic Coating

Ceramic coatings (ex: Cerakote) offer scratch, chemical, and corrosion resistance, as well as a broad range of color options. They are durable and maintain their appearance over time, making them a suitable choice for sports and dive watches, and provide additional personalized customization when added aftermarket. 

Gold Plating

Gold plating provides an opulent appearance to watches, exuding a sense of luxury and prestige. However, it is less scratch-resistant compared to PVD and DLC coatings and may require re-plating over time (look to vintage gold-plated watches as examples). In practice, a layer of deposited gold plating can be much stronger and more resistant to wear than 12-karat or 14-karat gold watch cases at a more cost-effective price. 

Rhodium Plating

Rhodium plating in watchmaking enhances a watch’s shine and offers increased scratch resistance. It is commonly used on white gold or silver watches to prevent tarnishing, though electroplating with Rhodium will not hide surface imperfections.

Conclusion

It would be no understatement to claim that watch coatings have transformed the world of watchmaking, offering a new blend of combined style and resilience since their introduction. PVD and DLC coatings, in particular, have gained immense popularity for their remarkable properties. 

While PVD coatings provide a broader color palette and affordability, DLC coatings excel in terms of hardness and scratch resistance. Understanding these coating techniques empowers watch enthusiasts to make informed choices based on their preferences and intended use when ultimately deciding which watch to purchase. 

Yet, regardless of the type of coating in question, these innovations highlight the dedication of watchmakers in their pursuit of crafting timepieces that not only stand the test of time but also exemplify aesthetic beauty and durability in use.

 As technology continues to advance and materials improve, we can expect even more new technologies and watch coatings to emerge, further evolving the art of watchmaking. Such innovations ensure that watches remain timeless companions that complement both style and substance in our own watch-collecting journeys.

I once heard a funny watch quote that says, “With great popularity comes great counterfeiting”, which is a statement attributed to most luxury timepieces. 

After being in the business of crafting timepieces since 1875, Audemars Piguet has built a reputation for designing some of the most timeless watches to have graced the watchmaking scene, like the Royal Oak and Millenary. The high demand for AP watches comes with a very high level of counterfeiting, and the market is now filled with fake AP watches.

The increasing demand for Audemars Piguet watches has led to the success of the counterfeit market. The fake watches are made with simulated materials and with poor designs also. These fakes are often difficult to distinguish from genuine AP watches because they make them look identical to the real ones. 

About Fake Audemars Piguet Watches

The fear of being called out for wearing a fake built my interest in watches in the first place because I had to understand every piece that caught my eye. It is not a surprise that there is a fast-growing market for fake AP watches, as they are one of the most sought-after brands for producing luxury watches worldwide. 

If I were not familiar with Audemars timepieces, I would have probably bought a fake one, thinking it was the real thing, because of how popular these fakes have become in the market. 

Audemars Piguet watches are made with top-of-the-notch materials and high-level craftsmanship, these fakes are quite the opposite, and they often don’t even replicate the real versions in any way. So if these watches aren’t built like the real ones, why do people buy them?

We live in a world where having a luxury timepiece on your wrist would get you into circles you won’t dream of entering. So, many people who can’t afford a real AP settle for the fake to fit into these gatherings. Some people have little or no understanding of luxury watches, so they end up buying the fake Audemars Piguet to show it off as its real counterpart. 

Purchasing a fake AP is not a good idea for whatever reason you might have because you’re not only fooling yourself by buying a sham product, but you’re also promoting the counterfeit market.

How to Spot a Fake Audemars Piguet

Even as a watch enthusiast, I’m always critical when it comes to AP watches because of how convincing the fake ones are. These are a few factors to take note of before buying an Audemars Piguet watch:

Price of the Watch

I would be suspicious of a dealer trying to sell me an AP for $10,000, and you should too. An entry-level Audemars Piguet watch, like the 33mm quartz Royal Oak could cost around $15,000,  and the most expensive AP watches could be sold for over $400,000. It would help to be careful of watches sold for less than the retail price because most luxury timepieces tend to cost more on the secondary market than they do at retail.

Build Quality and Materials

Audemars Piguet watches are made with the finest materials like titanium, ceramic, shades of gold, and stainless steel. The brand is well-known for its choice of the highest quality materials, so buying an AP watch that doesn’t portray a very high standard of quality won’t be a good idea.

Weight of the Watch

The features and complications a watch has often determines how heavy it will be. An average AP watch with few features feels pretty heavy on my 8-inch wrist, and some models, like the new calibre 1000, have up to 40 functions with 23 complications and are a lot heavier. So being conscious about the weight of an AP you are trying to purchase might save you from buying a fake one.

Case Finish

AP watches are smoothly polished with sharp edges, and it is always difficult to meet the standard of such fine finishing on a fake one as they often have uneven finish and rough edges.

Dial

The markings and logo on the dial of AP watches are crisp and clear with the same measurements, and they do not wear or fade off. Fake Audemars Piguet timepieces often have uneven logos and markings, which can be noticed if taken note of, and they always change colors because of the substandard materials used in making them.

Watch Movement

Audemars Piguet watches come with sophisticated in-house movements and some other popular ones among luxury watches. Unlike other timepiece parts, original movements are hard to find, so a fake timepiece often has a substandard movement and can be spotted. 

Watch Bracelet

The links of AP watches are appropriately aligned and made with quality materials. The clasps of the watches are also firm and secure, with the Audemars Piguet logo engraved at the tip sometimes. The fake AP watches are often made of cheap metals with unaligned links.

Watch Documentation

Having a reputable watch dealer as a friend has come in handy more times than I can count. Checking the case back for the serial number and requesting the documents is another way of detecting a fake timepiece. And when you’re still in doubt, take the watch to a reputable watch dealer for further confirmation.

How to Spot a Fake Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Royal Oak is not just the most popular Audemars Piguet watch. It is one of the most sought-after in the world of luxury timepieces, so it is not a surprise you can find many counterfeits in the market. You must know how to differentiate between a fake and a real one if you want to buy a Royal Oak. 

These are some of the things to look out for to spot a fake Royal Oak:

Watch Bezel

The Royal Oak is known for its well-polished steel bezels, screwed down with eight hexagonal screws. These screws are spaced evenly and are well aligned. A fake Royal Oak might have a rough bezel with different shapes of screws unevenly spaced, so be on the lookout.

Watch Dial

The signature dial on a Royal Oak is made of Tapisserie, a guilloché pattern. This pattern is spaced evenly and is symmetrical; the design used on a fake one may be uneven and crooked.

Case Back

The case back of Royal Oaks is one distinct feature that makes it easy to spot a fake one. It is made of sapphire crystal, so the watch’s movements can be seen through it. Sapphire crystals are also scratch-proof, so scratches on the back can quickly give a fake one away. And the movements are always sophisticated and defect free, which is always very difficult to replicate on a fake Royal Oak, and they could be easily spotted through the transparent back.

Watch Logo

A genuine Royal Oak has a logo designed with raised gold letters. They are well-polished and clear, and they do not fade off. The logo on a fake one might be printed or stamped on the dial and have a faded or blurry look.

Serial Number

All luxury watches come with unique serial numbers, and the Royal Oak is no exemption. They can be found on the case back of each one, engraved in a consistent and prominent font. A fake Royal Oak might have the serial number printed or stamped with inconsistent and blurry fonts.

Warranty

Royal Oak watches come with a warranty when they’re bought on retail, so asking your dealer for a warranty and a certificate for authentication is a way to ensure you are getting a genuine piece. If they can’t provide you with these papers, you should probably not swipe your card for such a timepiece.

Watch Packaging

To get customers hooked at first sight, materials like suede and velvet are mostly used in the packaging of luxury timepieces. So when trying to get a Royal Oak, don’t just focus on the watch itself; take a look at the packaging for cheap materials before buying.

How to Ensure You Buy a Real Audemars Piguet 

Made up of valuable materials like gold and platinum, and having such a strong position in Swiss horological history, investing in an Audemars Piguet watch could be a great idea because most of them tend to appreciate value. But before making that purchase, there are some things you should do to ensure you are getting a genuine AP timepiece.

Do Not Buy On Impulse

Just because a timepiece looks good on the outside doesn’t mean you should jump on it immediately. Take time to compare different models to see if you can get another that might serve you better. An AP watch is a serious investment and should be carefully thought about.

Do Your Research

Learning about the brand’s history and models will help you identify a genuine Audemars Piguet watch from a counterfeit. So read about the timepiece you want to buy and also try to understand its heritage.

Make Sure You Seek the Opinion Of Experts 

Asking experienced collectors and watchmakers for their opinion on a Particular AP watch would be helpful if you are not certain about the authenticity. There are also various online platforms where the opinions of watch experts can be sought for free on watches, so make sure you are seeking the help of people that know a lot more than you when it comes to timepieces. 

Asking Your Watch Dealer for Photos and Documents

Most purchases are now made online, so asking for photos and videos of the watch would not only save you from buying a fake Audemars Piguet, but you will be able to confirm if the timepiece has any defects or damages. And if it does, you can either terminate the transaction or request for it to be changed.

Where to Buy Authentic Audemars Piguet Watches

Your first concern at this stage is looking for retailers you can trust. This considers more than just reviewing surface-level information. Thankfully, there are plenty of examples that come with a historical reputation you can trust, with Exquisite Timepieces being a great example.

Nevertheless, verification and authenticity are everything when it comes to navigating your buying decision. This includes reviewing angles like international warranties, serial numbers, third-party verification, and any related after-sales brand services.

It sounds like a lot to consider, but the right retailer will be able to guide you through every step. I always make authenticity a point in my search for any watch, as every detail matters, visual or not. Aside from that, think about what the pre-owned market has to offer. In many cases, pre-owned is just as good as brand new, just at a fraction of the original price.

For me, it’s more important to be smart about this purchase than to care about anything status-related. Think of the long term and prioritize quality and originality over fads and marketing gimmicks. Although reputable retailers exist in the world, it’s even easier to stumble across risky platforms. Speaking face to face with those who have years of hands-on industry experience is the best way to go.

Buy From A Reputable Seller

There are watch dealers authorized by Audemars Piguet to sell their watches, and these are the best people to buy from. They can provide you with a certificate to authenticate the timepiece, and you can be sure they have a return policy in place if you eventually discover any defect after purchase.

These fake watches often come with very attractive price tags to interest people. After taking these steps and you’re still not convinced about the originality of the Audemars Piguet timepiece you want to buy, you should tread the path of caution and let go of that deal, no matter how juicy it might seem, to avoid any regrets. You can also go to different buyers to compare the look of the same watch and the price. 

Conclusion

Even for experienced collectors, differentiating between real and fake AP watches might be difficult because of the effort put into counterfeit watches these days. Summarily, no guide can 100% guarantee you spot a fake Audemars Piguet, but being conscious of these factors above gives you a better chance of going home with an original timepiece.