Category: Watch Reviews

So you want to buy a dress watch under $10,000? Excellent!! You already know you want something special. Whether you need it as part of your expanding collection of fine watches or you’re hunting for that one treasure that will become a family heirloom, getting the right dress watch can be daunting.

Reserved for business and formal occasions, a dress watch is an immaculate tribute to the fine art of watchmaking. The first appearance of a dress watch can be traced to the beginning of the 20th century when men began transitioning from pocket watches to elegant wristwatches. Dress watches are a must-have in any collection and are normally characterized by a fuss-free minimalistic design, making them pair flawlessly with suits, jackets, and other formal attires.

The inexplicable charm of a classic dress watch is known to bring untold satisfaction to the wearer, and this is just one of the many reasons why a dress watch will always be in vogue. From Patek Philippe’s Calatrava to Rolex’s Datejust 36, here are some of the best dress watches in the Haute Horlogerie universe under $10,000. 

What to Look for in Dress Watches Under $10,000

Whether you desire to have a quintessential status symbol in your possession or something practical and refined, taking your horological love home isn’t as simple as pulling out your credit card and saying I do. There are a couple of things you need to be informed about, which is why we put this short guide to help you make an informed decision.

Appearance

A timepiece is way more than a utilitarian timekeeping device. It is designed to significantly enhance looks and add an air of sophistication to your apparel, so consider the following.

The Case

Made up of the case back, bezel, and main body, including the lugs, the case of a dress watch is what protects the movement and gives a distinct character to the timepiece.

Every dress watch under $10,000 should have a classic, elegant, and refined case. Steel is the most ubiquitous material in use, even though gold, titanium, platinum, ceramic, and other hybrid materials are often used in the production of cases.

Look out for a fitting dimension depending on the size of your wrist. Most dress watches fall between 34 mm to 40 mm; however, be sure that the profile is thin enough to slide under your cuffs. It should also feature a highly scratch-resistant glass-like sapphire crystal and exquisite finishing.

Dial

Visible through the protective glass is the face of the watch or the dial. Its primary function is to display the time. But beyond that, the overall aesthetic allure of the entire timepiece depends largely on the dial. 

A true dress watch should have a dial void of all excesses. Look out for a dial with a clean, elegant, and minimalistic look with graceful numerals or hour markers and a simple handset.

Though there’s no hard and fast rule, it’s best to stick to black, gray, silver, or white dials with no unnecessary complications in the display.

Strap/Bracelet

The strap/bracelet of a watch is what fastens it around your wrist. It is also called a watch band and may be made of leather, rubber, plastic, or other materials. When it’s made from metal, it is called a bracelet. It is best to opt for a comfortable strap that exudes class and quality. 

The color of the strap is also important, and you should make a selection depending on your style preferences. While metal straps provide durability and are relatively easier to take care of, leather straps are more comfortable, lightweight, and fashionable.

Brand Reputation

Brand reputation is simply the public perception that customers, employees, and partners hold about a brand. Watch manufacturers take years of hard work to build a high degree of trust among their customers, which translates to the “status element” attached to different brands.

Swiss-made watches are reputed to be the best in the world, with legendary watchmakers who have built their enterprise upon the history and heritage of exquisite craftsmanship. Getting a watch from a reputable brand increases the watch’s value and attaches to it a timeless prestige.

There’s also the satisfaction that comes to the wearer just knowing that the watch brand they are wearing is recognized and appreciated. Buying your dress watch from a reputable brand that has built confidence and loyalty by consistently delivering high-quality watches to ensure longevity is important.

Build Quality & Finishing

The degree to which a timepiece is fit and free of all defeats is the build quality. For the build quality of a dress watch under $10,000 to be considered good, the quality of the materials used must be top-notch. Be sure to select a watch that is durable and will last for a very long time in good condition.

Check the spec sheet to find out what kind of material was used for the watch, and never buy a low-quality watch simply because it looks good. The finishing is a final touch performed to decorate the watch and offer it a more refined look. 

Movement

The movement (or caliber) of a watch is the internal engine that supplies energy to the timepiece and makes it run. It is one of the most important parts of the timepiece that drives whatever complication the watch features and moves the hands.

The three main types of movements include; quartz, manual-wind, and automatic. Quartz watches are powered by batteries and electricity. Automatic watches, on the other hand, are self-winding, while manually-wound watches require you to wind the crown every so often to avoid running out.

Mechanical watches are often appreciated more by collectors because they make excellent heirloom watches and are exquisitely decorated.

Value Retention

Here is one last crucial element; value retention. This is the difference between what you pay for a dress watch and what it eventually sells for a couple of years later. Not every luxury watch retains its value after you leave the store, and if you’re looking for a timepiece with a good return on investment, it’s best to consider this point carefully.

A couple of factors determine whether or not a watch will hold its value. They include brand prestige, rarity, aesthetics, and exclusive mechanical movements (especially if it’s in-house). Of course, you have to ensure that the watch is well maintained if you want it to retain its value, so treat your timepiece and all its accessories with as much care as possible.

The Best Dress Watches Under $10,000

1. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

Priced at $6,700, the Omega De Ville Trésor Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 is a perfect demonstration of exquisite craftsmanship from one of the most iconic and famous luxury watch brands in the world. The dress watch has a superlative aesthetic sensibility and comes in a steel case that measures 40mm across.

The timepiece pays tribute to the first model of the Omega Trésor line, which was released way back in 1949. That said, the design and personality of Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 encapsulates the bewitching charm of vintage watches from the 1950s.

The case has a sleek profile and measures 10.1mm in height. As you would expect from a reputable brand with decades of watch-making expertise, the case is highly polished throughout and features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

The domed opaline silvery dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible with hands and indexes in 18K white gold. The placement of the date window at 6 o’clock and the logo and brand name at 12 respects the elegant symmetry of the dial.

The watch houses the legendary 30mm Calibre 8910 that guarantees the Swiss industry’s highest standard of precision. It is visible via the transparent case back.

2. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW259

Grand Seiko is a fast-rising luxury watchmaker with divine prowess in crafting aesthetically magnificent watches. The brand is distinguished for being the premium sibling of the highly famous Japanese watch manufacturer; Seiko. Grand Seiko’s passion for pushing boundaries has made it a top-tier watchmaker today.

The Ref. SBGW259 from the Elegance Collection is an attestation to the creativity of the brand’s master craftsman. The timepiece, a recreation of the first ever Grand Seiko produced in December 1960, was launched in 2020 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of that icon.

The design codes are highly respected. The shape of the watch is identical to the first of its kind but now comes in a Brilliant Hard Titanium case exclusive only to the brand. The case now measures 38mm (as opposed to 35mm) and features the ‘Zaratsu polishing’, which makes Grand Seiko’s cases so attractive.

The dial is instantly recognizable as a production from the luxury brand and features perfectly finished mirror-polished hands and indexes executed in the traditional Japanese way with profound attention to detail. It is powered by the Calibre 9S64, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.

3. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (ref. 6651 1143 55B)

watches of all time. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has demonstrated exquisite craftsmanship and incomparable aesthetic sensibility in all its watches since its founding by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in the year 1735.

Ultraplate means  “ultra flat”, and that is what sets the Ref. 6651 1143 55B apart. The classic dress watch features a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of just 8.35mm. The slim profile of the watch, coupled with the short lugs, means the watch will easily accommodate a range of wrists.

The stark dial features polished silver Roman numerals affixed to the dial by hand. The slender, open-worked leaf hands bring depth to the simple design of the dial, while the discreet date window at 3 maintains the symmetry and adds to its appeal.

The Caliber 1151, with an ultra-slim height of just 3.25mm, provides a robust 4-day power reserve. The watch is priced at $10,400 and comes fitted with a classic black alligator strap. You can get it here.

4. Glashütte Original Sixties (ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04)

Glashütte is one of the most famous German watchmakers, firmly positioned among the top-tier watch manufacturers in the world. The Sixties collection debuted in 2007. The watches’ inspiration comes from vintage Spezimatic timepieces manufactured during the German Democratic Republic (GDR) era from 1949 to 1990.

The Ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04 is a unique one-of-a-kind timepiece that is enchanting, making it a highly coveted watch among collectors. The watch is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with a height of 9.40mm. The diminutive dimensions are enhanced by short lugs and a curved sapphire crystal case back, making the watch exceptionally comfortable to wear.

The retro dial is the undisputed champion of the show and comes with striking features that will charm the wearer endlessly. The stick and Arabic numerals are slightly curved to homogenize with the curved dial.

The galvanized black dial is captivating with a matte surface that has a pronounced rough surface which adds depth to the watch. The watch is powered by a Glashütte Original manufacture movement, the Caliber 39-52, with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. You can get it here.

5. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (ref. J007010240)

Founded in 1721 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for producing complex and intricate timepieces. The prestigious Maison, which is currently part of the Swatch Group’s Prestige and Luxury division, is the world’s 36th most recognized Swiss brand.

Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case, the Ref. J007010240 pays tribute to the first grande seconde model released in 1785. The pocket watch featured a graceful figure of eight made by intertwining large seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a smaller one at 12 o’clock for the hours and minutes.

The enchanting design was brought to life again in 2002 and remains Jaquet Droz’s flagship product with countless adaptations. The round case of the watch measures 11.52mm in height and is mounted on a velvety blue rolled-edge alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasps.

The silver dial, as the grande seconde model made 235 years ago, features the elegant figure-eight layout and is adorned with vibrant blued hands, applied markers, and a blue date ring for the pointer date. The watch is equipped with an in-house automatic movement, the Jaquet Droz 2660Q2, that provides a power reserve of 68 hours. Get it here.

6. Longines Master Collection Silver Dial 40mm (ref. L2.793.8.78.3)

The Master Collection from Longines features a lineup of extremely complicated and impressively simple mechanical watches produced to the highest possible standard. Longines is the oldest registered watch brand in the world, with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry.

The Swiss Marque is famous for pioneering many legendary creations such as the ‘13.33Z’, which was the first ever Chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch. The Ref. L2.793.8.78.3 perfectly illustrates the exquisite craftsmanship that the brand exercises to meet and exceed the highest standards of precision, durability, and elegance.

The 18-karat pink gold case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.80mm and a lug distance of 21mm. The silver “barleycorn” dial has a blasted finish that gives off a finely-grained texture. It is adorned with vivid blued steel hands that give it depth and character and painted Arabic numerals.

Decorated to Longines’s high standards, the transparent case back with sapphire crystal reveals the classic caliber L888. The self-winding mechanical movement beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

7. Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Everyone knows what a Rolex is and what it looks like, and despite being among the highest producers of luxury watches, the brand is firmly positioned among the most successful watchmakers with a class that is impossible to beat.

The Datejust is one of the earliest models from the brand that first debuted in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rolex. The collection entails an amazing catalog of versatile, elegant, and high-quality timepieces that get die-hard enthusiasts and casual watch lovers hot under the collar.

Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, the Datejust 36 Ref. 126234 comes in a fully polished 36mm case with a mixed-finished Jubilee bracelet. The dress watch is only 12mm thick and has a lug-to-lug distance of 43.3mm, making it even more slender and sleek when worn.

The fluted bezel contains 18k white gold, while the middle case is made from OysterSteel. Ensuring a water resistance rating of 100 meters is the crown, which is fitted with the Twinlock double locking system.

The dial of Ref. 126234-0049 is blue and features the familiar Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock and 18k gold hour markers and hands. It is powered by the in-house caliber 3235, a certified Superlative Chronometer movement that offers a precision of 2/+2 seconds. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours and comes with a five-year guarantee.

8. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 3919)

Patek Philippe has been making exceptional watches since 1839, making it one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world. For almost two centuries, the Swiss watch brand has dedicated its efforts to mastering every aspect of fine watchmaking.

It is one of the last independent watchmakers famous for creating Haute Horology timepieces that meet and exceed the highest standards of elegance, durability, accuracy, and grand style.

The brand is also known to design and produce some of the most complicated mechanical watches in the world, so it doesn’t confine its skills to a single niche. The Calatrava model has been the gold standard of just what an iconic dress watch should be like since its appearance in the early 1930s.

It has remained Patek Philippe’s flagship dress watch for over eight decades, and the Ref. 3919 continues onward in this proud tradition with mesmerizing features. The 18k gold case measures 33mm in diameter and is just 6.5mm thick. The bezel features double layers of mini pyramid accents that add sophistication to the otherwise bland, understated dress watch.

The crisp white lacquer dial is clean, legible, and elegant with black Roman numerals, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and leaf-style hour and minute hands. It is powered by the Caliber 215 PS movement, which provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a watch that is both eccentric and striking. The patented case from Jaeger-LeCoultre started life as a practical solution for some British officers in India in the early 1930s. These men were distressed by the error of breaking the crystal glass on their watches repeatedly during polo matches.

The Reverso was a functional swiveling case with a rectilinear shape capable of being completely turned over. The invention was a trail-blazing novelty that immediately distinguished Jaeger-LeCoultre from other ubiquitous pocket and pendant watch producers. The Ref. Q713842J pays tribute to the first genuine icon and comes in an 8.51 mm thick case that measures 45.6 x 27.4mm (L x W).

The brand reports that the case is produced and hand-assembled by a specialized team, and the design of the dial is in line with the codes that laid the foundation of the first Reverso.

The opaline dial is straightforward, clean, and elegant with applied faceted hour markers, Dauphine-style hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a rectangular railway minute track on the periphery of the dial in black print. 

The watch is equipped with the Manufacture hand-wound Calibre 822, which delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. It comes with a black Casa Fagliano-designed bi-material strap (leather/canvas).

10. Cartier Tank Française Large (ref. WSTA0067)

Established in 1847, Cartier is a world-renowned jeweler known for producing some of the most exquisite and ultra-high-end timepieces that have graced the wrists of celebrities. The luxury watchmaker is a favorite choice of royalty and celebrities alike, as its watches are often unique, elegant, and enchanting.

The Tank collection, in particular, is one of the famous models from the brand that was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Louis drew his inspiration from the Renault Tank FT, which the French forces used in the later stages of World War I. 

The Tank Francaise, which was a bestseller in the 1990s, made a bold comeback recently. The line now features elegant watches with contemporary features but still keeps the look of the armored vehicle it was named after. The shape of the watch is squared still and is presented with an integrated strap held between two straight parallel brancards.

The watch features a 36.5mm x 28.15mm stainless steel case with an octagonal crown in yellow gold at 3 o’clock. The crown is adorned with a blue cabochon, while the silvered flinqué dial is decorated with Roman numerals and a railroad minute track. 

Blued sword-shaped hands add elegance to the face of the watch, while a calendar aperture at 6 o’clock maintains the symmetry of the watch. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

11. IWC Portofino Automatic (ref. IW356501)

IWC (International Watch Co. Schaffhausen) was founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones, a young watchmaker from Boston, in 1868. The brand is known to demonstrate an intuitive understanding of aesthetics coupled with precision and excellence at every stage of its production process. The Portofino Automatic is a signature model remarkable for its distinct timelessness and visually appealing minimalistic dial.

The watch comes in a 40 mm wide round case identical to the Portofino family. The height of the stainless steel case is 9.2 mm, and it is highly polished and refined with straight, thin lugs. The dial is clean and uncluttered yet elegant and very attractive.

The smooth silver-plated dial features a cute date window at 3 o’clock, a peripheral minute track, and applied silver-plated indices with Roman numerals XII and VI for 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively.

Time is indicated by a sleek and beautiful leaf-shaped hour and minute hand. Powering the watch is the automatic, self-winding Calibre 35111. The movement beats at a frequency of 28800 VPH (4 Hz), has 163 Components with 25 Jewels, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

12. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

The Ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923 is an elegant watch inspired by the aesthetic designs of classic watches from the 1950s. The timepiece is presented in a 40.5mm steel case. The ultra-thin in-house manufactured movement with a power reserve of 50 hours under the hood allows the case to have a thickness of just 9.35mm. This feature makes it the perfect dress watch, slim enough to slide in comfortably under your cuff.

The slate grey dial features a very simple seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and moon phase at 6. It is strikingly different due to the stamped sunray pattern on the surface that emanates beautifully from the center all the way to the periphery of the dial. The watch comes fitted with a gray alligator leather strap. 

13. Laine V38 Frosted

Torsti Laine is one of those iconic watchmakers you probably have no idea about but should. After he graduated from the Finnish School of Watchmaking, he worked with A. Lange & Söhne F.A. Lange, and showed such outstanding potential that ultimately earned him the Watchmaking Excellence Award in 2014.

He went on to start manufacturing elegant watches under his eponymous brand. The V38 Frosted comes in a stainless steel case that measures 38mm across and has a thickness of only 9mm. The beautiful case is fully polished and features a domed sapphire crystal on top with an anti-reflective coating. 

The dial is the star of the show and features a guilloche center with a frosted outer portion. An applied steel ring encompasses the inner section and separates it from the frozen area while also bordering a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a minute track on the edge of the dial and applied Breguet-style numerals in white gold on the outer ring.

Visible through the case back is the Vaucher VMF 5401 micro-rotor movement with 160 components and 29 jewels. The visual appeal is very satisfying as even the edges are beveled and polished by hand. The watch is fitted with a natural tan Babele leather and is priced at approximately $10,000.

14. MeisterSinger Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold (ref. LS908G)

Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler and based in Münster, Germany, MeisterSinger is a luxury watch brand renowned for its single-handed watches. All the watches produced by the brand are extremely well made and feature iconic designs that fuse traditional style with present-day creativity.

The Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold watch is, in very simple terms, a breathtaking poetic piece bound to enchant the wearer endlessly. The watch comes in a stainless steel case that measures 41mm across with a lug width of 20mm and height of 12mm. The case has a slim bezel that takes the focus to the expansive dial.

The blue dial is a classic MeisterSinger with just one hand simultaneously indicating the hours and minutes. The layout is very familiar; however, there’s an oversized moon phase sitting at the upper half of the watch that looks very realistic. It is romantic, poetic, and beautiful.

There’s a circular date window at 6 o’clock and gold-plated applied hour markers that pair well with the moon (colored in gold), adding a luxurious touch to the watch. The exhibition case back offers a view of the MS Luna automatic movement, which is based on the Swiss Sellita SW220. The rotor offers a power reserve of 38 hours to the Ref. LS908G. You can get it here.

15. Louis Erard Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Founded in 1929, Louis Erard is a relentless fighter in the now sparse ranks of affordable luxury watches. The aim of the independent Swiss watch manufacturer has always been to make the most exclusive craftsmanship accessible.

That said, the Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition is a luxury watch that comes in a sleek 39mm stainless steel case. The case back is a pane of sapphire crystal which affords a beautiful view of the self-winding movement powering the watch. The self-winding Sellita SW261-1 will run autonomously for up to 38 hours when fully wound and has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz).

The Grand Feu dial is what confers luxury and elegance to the watch because the quality of an enamel dial is always unsurpassable. Due to the complexity of the craft, many watch brands shun the production of such dials, but the results are often satisfying. 

The lustrous appearance of the dial here has an eternal-like depth that is very captivating. It is adorned by vivid blue Roman numerals and triangular batons which denote the hours. The 12 o’clock index is red, providing a much-welcomed liveliness to the dial and matching very well with the red-grained calfskin leather strap on the watch.

Conclusion

Dress watches have evolved significantly since they first appeared in the 20th century. Even though the classic rules for what a dress watch should represent have softened over the years, the quintessential design codes have remained the same. 

That said, dress watches will always be the meeting point of style and etiquette, so don’t hesitate to treat yourself to an exquisite timekeeper!

In a world where there are so many incredible watches out in the wild, it can be challenging to pick out the absolute best ones for the money. Now more than ever, it is important to do a lot of research before making that big purchase and adding another beautiful timepiece to your collection. 

There are plenty of resources out there to understand every detail about your future dream watch, and we’ve created a list of the best watches in the under $10,000 category. Within this budget, an amazing assortment of watches awaits you! 

What to Look for in Watches Under $10,000

When you’re looking for a new watch under $10,000, there are several important things to consider. All of these factors should play a role as you carefully decide on your next timepiece.

Watch Purpose

Of course, the actual purpose of this watch is definitely something to keep in mind. Will it be a versatile piece that can do it all? Or will it have a specific purpose, like for formal situations or diving? 

Some collectors have a watch for every situation, while others have found peace with the perfect one-watch collection. Add pieces to your collection until you feel you’ve covered everything you want your watches to do. 

Brand Reputation

When you purchase a watch, you become a part of that brand’s exclusive club. You can proudly tell others that, yes, you own a Seiko, a Rolex, an Omega, or any other brand. Brand reputation matters for someone looking to fulfill their own personal requirements of what makes a watch brand amazing. The brand also affects how others perceive your watch. 

Build Quality & Finishing

Without a doubt, the build quality and finishing need to be top-notch for every watch that you are considering. Your money should be spent on something you know will last and look marvelous for a long time. At a certain point, superb build quality and finishing are to be expected and not just a nice bonus on a watch.

Movement

The movement is the lifeblood of every watch. Depending on the budget, movements can range from popular, mass-produced ones to high-end, in-house masterpieces. These movements will power the watch and must be carefully taken care of. Regular maintenance and servicing will inevitably be a part of owning a timepiece. The right movement will be both functional and beautiful to behold. 

Value Retention

Value retention, or how well a watch can keep its perceived value, is an important factor to consider for investment-minded people. Some people are thrilled with their timepieces and don’t pay attention to market performance.

However, some enthusiasts greatly care about the perceived market value of their watch. In this case, hot and popular models from established brands may be the best choice for these individuals. 

The Best Watches Under $10000

We’ve broken down the 25 best watches under $10,000 into four distinct categories. This will make it easier to find a watch that suits your specific needs. Without further ado, let’s take a look at some of the pieces available in the fantastic world of watchmaking! 

Everyday Watches

Everyday watches can do it all. They will fit any situation and are perfect for someone who wants a versatile and robust timepiece. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (ref. 124300)

We start this list off with one of the most recognizable watches out there: a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. An everyday watch is suitable for almost any situation, and a trusty Oyster Perpetual is definitely a good candidate for this category. 

The Oyster Perpetual is purely a time-only watch with no additional complications. However, you are getting access to the Rolex brand, its incredible quality, and its elevated status. This particular reference has a silvery dial with light gold accents and Rolex’s signature Oyster bracelet. 

The caliber 3230 is hidden behind the blank, Oystersteel caseback and is highly accurate and regulated to ensure accuracy up to 2 seconds a day. This modern-sized 41mm Rolex can fit nearly any wrist and can be yours for $8,700. 

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

It’s hard not to be entranced by a Grand Seiko. There’s something truly special about each piece, and you can easily get lost in the beautiful dial. Perhaps it is the extraordinary Zaratsu polishing that creates a sharp mirror finish.

It might also be the incredible value you’re getting with any Grand Seiko, which can easily stand against much more expensive watches. The “Snowflake” is a masterpiece from Grand Seiko and embodies the brand’s dedication to fine Japanese watchmaking. The star of the show is the dial, which resembles freshly fallen snow.

The watch is powered by the famed Spring Drive movement, which makes the blued steel second hand glide around the dial. The movement’s 72-hour power reserve can be tracked via the handy power reserve indicator on the dial. The 41mm titanium “Snowflake” is available for $6,200 through official Grand Seiko dealers. 

Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Black (ref. 542.NX.1171.RX)

Hublot’s everyday watch is a lightweight, titanium piece that comes in various sizes. This model is a very wearable 42mm, making it easily noticeable on the wrist. Any Hublot is bound to be noticed from across the room anyway, and curious onlookers will probably see Hublot’s distinctive porthole-shaped case and signature screws around the bezel. 

The rubber strap is also worth mentioning. It is extremely comfortable and durable, and Hublot has made a name for itself for its quality rubber straps. Beating inside the Classic Fusion is the HUB1110, based on a Sellita SW-300. This self-winding movement has a 42-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. The handsome Classic Fusion can be yours for approximately $8,500. 

Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 115 (ref. 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC)

Oris is constantly innovating its lineup, and the skeletal 44mm Pro Pilot X is the perfect embodiment of this. As one of the few independently owned Swiss brands, Oris can fully control every aspect of its watchmaking. The Pro Pilot X is a stunning watch with a skeletonized dial that exposes every part of the beautiful caliber 115 movement. 

You’ll be able to see every small moving piece working in unison to power this watch’s enormous 10-day power reserve. The power reserve is easily seen with the handy indicator at 3 o’clock. This movement is one of the first in-house movements from Oris, and it is truly a wonder to behold. For $8,000, you’ll be wearing a mechanical marvel on your wrist.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere (ref. MB119286)

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere pays homage to daring mountain climbers who constantly push themselves to the limit in pursuit of adventure and exploration. One of the main features of the 1858 Geosphere is the innovative new world-time complication developed in-house by Montblanc. 

The two spheres located at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock rotate in opposite directions. These globes display the 24-hour time and indicate whether it is day or night. Another reference to mountain climbing is the seven red dots on the globes. These dots represent the seven highest mountains of each continent in the world. 

This 41.5mm timepiece is crafted with a mix of hard ceramic and stainless steel and is powered by Montblanc’s MB29.25 automatic movement, providing a 42-hour power reserve and high accuracy. This homage to adventure and mountain climbing can be found on Montblanc’s website for $6,300. 

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC’s modern 40mm pilot watch would be a worthy everyday watch due to its legibility, utility, and high quality. Long known for its association with the military and aviation, IWC has taken the traditional pilot watch design and perfected it. The large, sword-style hands are sharply cut and filled with a generous amount of lume. 

Legibility is one of this watch’s greatest strengths. The clearly printed white numerals are large and easy to read, and the dial is lined by a bright minute tracker. This watch can be found on the wrists of career aviators and eager enthusiasts.

Inside this robust timepiece is IWC’s caliber 3211 automatic movement, a precise movement that offers a whopping 120 hours of power reserve. The Mark XX is also outfitted with IWC’s new EasX-CHANGE system, making customizing strap options easy. The Mark XX can be yours for $6,150. 

Chronograph Watches

Chronograph watches are able to measure time like a stopwatch. These highly technical pieces require specially modified movements to create this helpful feature. 

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is a timepiece well-known throughout the watch world and is one of the best chronographs on the market. Omega has indeed found massive success with the Moonwatch’s timeless design and iconic link to space travel. The Moonwatch is a living legend. Some people might call it the only watch you will ever need. 

This version of the Moonwatch stays true to its original design, even using a domed Hesalite crystal. Although more prone to scratches, simple maintenance will leave the crystal looking good as new. The 42mm Moonwatch is outfitted with the OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 3861 movement, and just like the original, it is also hand-wound. You can obtain a piece of history for $6,600.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

The Navitimer is one of the most famous Breitling models. Its large, bold design and distinctive chronograph feature are unmistakable. The watch face looks even larger due to the thin bezel surrounding the 43mm case. This is a watch that certainly isn’t going to be slipping under a dress shirt any time soon. 

The Navitimer dial is filled with numerous features initially designed to help pilots perform necessary flight calculations. It can be difficult for an untrained eye to utilize the Navitimer to its fullest potential, but that shouldn’t stop anyone from having a Navitimer in their collection. 

This new iteration of the Navitimer has a domed sapphire crystal and retains many classic elements of older models that fans are sure to love. The caliber B01 is an in-house Breitling creation and is rigorously tested for accuracy. This iconic watch can be yours for $9,700, which is one of the more expensive watches on the list. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A3817 (ref. 03.A384.400/3817.M3817)

As the name suggests, the highly attractive Chronomaster Revival El Primero is a modern interpretation of the A3817 that was released in 1971. Zenith is credited for releasing the world’s first automatic chronograph movement in 1969, hence the name “El Primero.”

This high-frequency movement beats at 36,000vph and has a respectable 50-hour power reserve. The 37mm dial sits on top of a classic tonneau-shaped case. This case and the ladder-style bracelet are a vintage design that will remain timeless.

There is a lot of visual interest in the dial due to the different colors on the chronograph sub-dials—blue, silver, and black contrast with the white dial and black chapter ring. There is also a tachymeter scale around the bezel. This Chronomaster is a triumphant remake of one of Zenith’s most successful models. This legacy watch is available for $9,000.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Tudor has found remarkable success with the Black Bay collection. Long seen as Rolex’s sister brand, Tudor has made huge strides in creating its own identity. The Black Bay collection is one of the ways that Tudor is making a name for themselves. The Black Bay Chrono is a sporty chronograph watch with Tudor’s signature snowflake-shaped hands.

These blocky hands are also found in numerous other Tudor models. There are multiple color variations for the Black Bay Chrono, including a panda dial or a golden champagne dial. Despite not being a dedicated dive watch, this watch has a respectable 200m of water resistance, indicated by the bright red text on the panda dial. The chronograph buttons are also screw-down and highly watertight.

Inside this amazing chronograph is the COSC-certified caliber MT5813. This movement is a modified variant of an earlier in-house movement created by Breitling in 2009. It has a 70-hour power reserve and is a mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system. Get your very own Black Bay Chrono for a very reasonable $5,450. 

TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

The Monaco is a watch that is just effortlessly cool. Everything from its unique square design, association with motorsports and famous icons, and iconic status makes this undoubtedly one of the best watches you can purchase for under $10,000. There are numerous color choices available for the Monaco, and this particular model we are showcasing is blue with red accents. 

Like the original Monaco worn by Steve McQueen, the crown is located on the left side. The chronograph pusher buttons are a rounded square shape located on the right side. The chronograph dials at 3 and 9 o’clock positions are also square in shape, matching the case shape. 

The case is 39mm, but the shape of the case definitely makes the watch seem more significant than it is. The strap has an asphalt finish, another reference to motorsports. Inside the Moncao is Tag Huer’s caliber 11 movement, an automatic chronograph movement that has a standard power reserve of 40 hours. This amazing piece of racing history is available for $7,800.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chrono (ref. 168589-3002)

The Mille Miglia takes its inspiration from the Italian motorsport race of the same name. Chopard is heavily involved in the racing scene, being the official timekeeper of numerous races around the world. This Mille Miglia Chronograph is sure to delight both racing fans and watch enthusiasts.

The dial is large, and the exact seconds and minutes can easily be tracked with clear indicators around the dial. There is also a tachymeter, which can measure speed over distance. This makes calculations for neck and neck races easier to calculate.

The strap resembles the tires of motorsport vehicles, with a distinctive grooved, rubber pattern. The 42mm Mille Miglia is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement from Chopard, which is a certified chronometer. This jewel of racing is available for $6,650. 

Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph (ref. L3.821.4.53.6)

Any watch stamped with Longines’ famous winged hourglass logo is definitely going to be a stunning watch. Longines’ Spirit collection is relatively new and has proven to be a hit with watch fans. The amazing, high-quality timepieces in this collection are a mix of heritage and modern, with sleek designs that resonate with their audience. 

The case is extremely well-constructed and features a ceramic bi-directional bezel. This large, 42mm watch sits comfortably on the wrist. The bracelet gently tapers and bends around the wrist effortlessly. On the dial, the hands and markers are a slight, pale gold, and there are notably five stars at the bottom of the dial. 

These stars are a sign of a highly accurate movement, the caliber L791.4. This COSC-certified chronometer has a column wheel and flyback function with a sizable 68-hour power reserve. This Spirit chronograph is available for $4,550.

Dive Watches

Dive watches are extremely popular and are able to survive nearly any challenge that it comes across. Some of the most defining features of timepieces in this category are high water resistance and increased durability. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5100-1140-O52A)

The Fifty Fathoms collection is a testament to Blancpain’s long association with diving and underwater exploration. After all, this brand was one of the first to introduce a modern diving watch. This model’s very name, Bathyscaphe, takes inspiration from the deep sea diving vessel used for underwater exploration. 

Indeed, the 300m of water resistance is more than enough for almost any professional or casual diver. The dial is simple and legible, with a timeless design that has helped divers for decades. The blocky hands and markers are filled with a generous amount of lume to make telling the time even easier. The case construction is also exceptional. It is made of satin-brushed steel and the edges are smooth and expertly finished. 

Inside the modest 38mm case is caliber 1150, a masterpiece from Blancpain. This movement is relatively thin, comprises 210 tiny parts, and has a 100-hour power reserve. This watch is available for $10,100, which is slightly above our limit. However, that extra $100 goes towards a historic brand that garners huge respect. 

Panerai Submersible (ref. PAM02973)

The Panerai Submersible looks like a heavy submarine ready for battle. Everything from the large 42mm size and bulky case design to the elaborate crown guard shows that this watch means business. True to its name, the watch features 300m of water resistance and can survive any underwater excursion.

This model has a strong wrist presence and will not be found under any dress sleeve. The weight of the stainless steel case is cut down by using a comfortable rubber strap that bends to fit any wrist shape. One of the most exciting features of the watch is the brushed bezel.

The markings are etched into the steel and have a very utilitarian look. The dial is a rich black color with white and blue accents. Hidden behind the solid caseback is the caliber P.900 automatic movement, which has a large 72-hour power reserve and is equipped with anti-shock capabilities. The Submersible is available for $9,500. 

Seiko Prospex LX SNR029

Seiko has a watch for everyone at any price bracket. The SNR029 is part of the vast Seiko Prospex collection, one of Seiko’s most famous lines. These dive watches are engineered to be the best in their class for professional and serious divers.

The SNR029 is one of the most advanced Prospex watches because of the high-quality materials and Seiko’s famous Spring Drive movement. The case is constructed out of titanium treated with an extra coating to make it super durable. The Spring Drive movement is normally found in most Grand Seiko luxury watches; however, it makes an appearance here as well.

The caliber 5R65 Spring Drive movement has a large 72-hour power reserve and is a unique blend of mechanical and electrical parts. To help with diving, there is a large screw-down crown, a unidirectional bezel, and an extra secure clasp on the bracelet. This highly technical dive watch is available for $6,000. 

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

The SeaQ is a luxurious dive watch with a distinctive arrow-shaped second hand. It is based on a vintage design from 1969. This 39.5mm dive watch is perfect for anyone looking for something unique in their collection. The highly satisfying and responsive unidirectional rotating bezel makes setting the dive time easy. The large numerals around the dial and the bezel are filled with Super-Luminova lume.

The hands and numerals are a light patina color, which provides a lot of warm visual interest. The stainless steel case has been finished with refined vertical brush finishing. Underneath the caseback, which has a deep engraving of a trident, is the caliber 39-11. This highly detailed movement with a custom rotor and fine finishing has a 40-hour power reserve. The SeaQ is available for $9,900.

Bremont Supermarine S502 Jet

Bremont is an exciting British watch brand that proudly provides exceptional timepieces for military professionals. The 43mm Supermarine is a tactical all-black watch with a handy true GMT feature. GMT watches are extremely useful because they can track another timezone. 

The Supermarine’s yellow GMT hand stands out from the scratch-resistant black dial, case, and rubber strap. This yellow GMT hand will also be highly legible under the water. This watch’s remarkable 500m of water resistance is achieved through the helium escape valve, screw-in caseback, expert construction, and increased antishock capabilities. 

The Bremont caliber BE-93-2AE automatic chronometer is a modified ETA2892, a true workhorse movement with 42 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. The Supermarine is available for approximately $4,000. 

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte (ref. BR0392-D-BL-CE/SRB)

One look at this intense watch is enough to see the clear military inspiration behind it. Bell & Ross is one of the few luxury French brands with a strong military association and creates highly technical, durable timepieces for professionals.

This dive watch looks almost bulletproof, thanks to the sleek, matte black dial, rubber strap, and ceramic case design. The ceramic material is highly scratch-resistant and quite comfortable. The case shape is similar to other Bell & Ross watches and fits quite well for a 42mm watch.

Underneath the highly eligible matte black dial is the BR-CAL.302 automatic movement, which is based on the Sellita SW300. It offers a reasonable 38-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. This rugged watch can be yours for a reasonable $4,600. 

Dress Watches

Dress watches are normally reserved for formal occasions and are elegant, understated timepieces that can easily fit under any dress sleeve.

Cartier Santos Medium (ref. WSSA0029)

Most Cartier Santos models are extremely similar to each other and have used the same winning design for years and years now. This medium-sized version of the classic Santos has all the features you would expect to see on this flagship model from Cartier.

The blued hands, a blue jewel on the crown, and branding on the 7 o’clock Roman numeral are all there. One of the newest innovations to this classic design is the new “QuickSwitch” system. This makes switching between the metal bracelet and included calfskin strap extremely easy.

Another innovation is the “SmartLink” adjustment system, which lets wearers adjust the bracelet to fit them perfectly without any tools necessary. These fantastic additions to the Santos make the timepiece a blend of modern and traditional. The Santos Medium is available for $7,050.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds (ref. Q3858522)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is considered a dress watch by many. However, the model was originally designed to be a sports watch, able to survive a hard-fought polo match. One of the watch’s main features is the ability to flip the entire watch face around to protect the dial from outside damage.

This curious, rectangular watch is relatively thin but highly durable. It looks incredible on nearly any wrist and is packed with fine details, including the finely textured center dial and blued hands. The comfortable, smooth leather strap is from the unique Fagliano Collection, resulting from a collaboration between Jaeger-LeCoultre and artisan leather makers Casa Fagliano.

The Reverso’s caliber 822 movement has been perfectly molded to fit the rectangular case and is proudly stamped with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s statement that the watch has been adjusted to five positions. This classic watch is available for $10,600.    

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Every Grand Seiko comes with a story. For the SBGY007, that story begins with winter snow over Lake Suwa. Grand Seiko loves to craft romantic, imaginative imagery for many of their watches. The Elegance collection is a series of elegant and clean dress watches. The main attraction of this watch is, of course, the ethereal, icy white dial that looks like snow falling on blue waters. 

The dial is symmetrical and simple, highlighting the dial and blued seconds hand. The 38.5mm case features Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing, a technique that creates a mirror finish on each surface. Of course, Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement is also inside this watch, creating a buttery smooth seconds hand that glides around the dial. The Elegance is available for $8,300.

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.02.001)

The Globemaster is a masterful feat of engineering from Omega. As part of the Constellation series, the Globemaster is a beautiful dress watch with some serious horology backing it up. Omega proudly proclaims the Globemaster as the world’s first Master Chronometer.

This means that the timepiece has been certified by two powerful organizations in the watchmaking world: COSC and METAS. Essentially, it means the Globemaster is a certified masterpiece made with the absolute highest quality. The dial is clean and symmetrical, with a star at the 6 o’clock position.

The star is another reference to the Constellation series, Omega’s dreamy lineup of dress watches. Behind the sapphire glass caseback is a medallion of the famous observatory seen in many Constellation watches. Powering the Globemaster is the caliber 8900, a self-winding movement with a co-axial escapement with anti-magnetic properties. For $7,100, you’ll have a dress watch that demands respect. 

Laine V38 Frosted

Laine is an independent Swiss watch brand that creates handcrafted masterpieces in their workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. In a list filled with recognizable names like Rolex and Omega, Laine stands out from all the rest with breathtaking movements and impeccable attention to detail. 

The Frosted model is available in a few different finishes, one with a “Moondust” granular finish or a slightly more expensive option with a meteorite or center guilloche. No matter your choice, you are getting a dress watch that will turn heads. The 38mm watch has a symmetrical dial, with the main point of interest being the two circles in the middle of the dial.

The “Moondust” option is particularly stunning and really stays true to the Frosted name. Flipping the watch to its back reveals the gorgeous Vaucher 5401 movement. It is filled with tiny, precise details. The rotor is hand-engraved with a custom design, and the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes. One of these highly coveted pieces can be yours for approximately $10,000.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65

The final watch on this list is Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence. This perfectly sized 40mm dress watch is clean, symmetrical, and sophisticated. The stainless steel case is polished and satin-finished provides depth and interest to this dressy timepiece.

On the second hand is the brand’s double G logo. This logo is also found on the fluted crown. The dial is a cleanly finished matte black color with Arabic numerals that are filled with generous amounts of lume. 

Behind the sapphire glass caseback is the caliber 36-01, one of the most impressive movements that Glashütte Original produces. It has a substantial 100-hour power reserve and is finely decorated. The double G logo is found on the skeletonized rotor, and the oscillation weight is made of 21-carat gold. The Senator Excellence is available for approximately $9,000. 

Conclusion 

A list of the absolute best watches under $10,000 is a challenging task, but we have assembled some of the best timepieces on the market for you today. Any one of these superb pieces would be an incredible addition to your wardrobe.

Whether you’re looking for a watch with a specific purpose, or a watch that can do it all, there’s something on here that will definitely catch your eye. The hunt for a new timepiece is so exciting, and your next watch might be here! 

Cartier, a brand that needs no introduction, was founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier and quickly became a favorite among royalty and the wealthy elite. Over the years, Cartier has crafted absolute masterpieces – definitions of style and panache – adorned with gems, precious metals, and intricate designs.

Cartier’s signature style is unmistakable; elegant lines, clean designs, and iconic shapes. The brand’s most well-known watches, the Tank and the Santos are certified classics and are beloved among celebrities, royals, and aristocrats the world over. It’s a simple truth that one can’t think of a quadrilateral wristwatch without confronting the image of a Cartier.

In this ultimate guide, we’ll explore the history of Cartier, from its modest Parisian start to its modern-day stylistic dominance, delving into the intricacies of some of the brand’s vintage timepieces. Whether you are a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey into the world of vintage watches, this guide will provide you with everything you need to know.

From Pilots to Princesses – The Endless Allure of Cartier

Cartier watches have been worn by some of the most influential figures of the past century, from aviators to royalty. Cartier can make the stunning (and surprising) claim of having produced the first-ever dedicated pilot’s watch (more on that shortly) as well as having supplied multiple royals with suitably elegant timepieces. 

Princess Diana was a notable wearer of Cartier watches, whose enduring admiration for the humble Cartier Tank was a well-known aspect of her style. Another fan of the simple Tank, John F. Kennedy, could often be seen wearing his. Likewise, Madonna’s Panthere and Cristiano Ronaldo’s Santos are undoubtedly watches that speak to and for the character of their owners – uniquely stylistic pieces that combine classic design elements with modern innovation, resulting in an effortlessly enduring product. 

The only Cartier is, quite clearly, Cartier. Nothing else even comes close, and that’s why so many people have chosen the brand’s watches as their daily accompaniment for over a century.

A History of Cartier – The Tradition of Style

Cartier is one of the most respected and recognizable luxury brands in the world of watches, but it hasn’t always been so. Established in Paris in 1847, Cartier made its start as a bespoke jeweler under its founder, Louis-Francois Cartier, before eventually expanding into the world of high-end timepieces and, indeed, taking that world by storm thanks to the efforts of Louis’s enterprising grandchildren.

One of Cartier’s earliest and most famous watch designs is the Santos de Cartier, created in 1904 for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This innovative watch was designed to be worn while flying, with a leather strap that was more comfortable than the metal bracelets of the time. 

The Santos also featured a square case, which was a bold departure from the ubiquitous round cases of the early 20th century. This four-sided design ethos would carry forward to the present day as a signature element of Cartier’s most highly renowned watches. 

Shortly after creating the Santos wristwatch, Cartier signed an agreement with Edmond Jaeger (yes, that Jaeger) to supply all of the company’s movements exclusively. So began Cartier’s pursuit of commercial horological success, and in the 1920s, the company introduced another profoundly iconic watch. 

The Cartier Tank was inspired by a birds-eye perspective of the design of tanks in World War I and featured a clean, simple rectangular case that quickly became a symbol of sophistication, minimalism, and style. Over the years, the Tank has been updated and refined, but it remains one of the world’s most identifiable and enduring watch designs and a signature part of the Cartier catalog.

Cartier’s success was propelled almost exclusively by the Tank for years until the 1930s when the brand began considering different styles and designs inspired by the one-off creation of the first ‘Pasha’, a timepiece made for the Pasha of Marrakesh. Known for its oversized case, screw-down crown, and distinctive Arabic numerals, the Pasha became a symbol of luxury and sophistication upon its public release decades later, adding a dimension of boldness and unabashed charm to Cartier’s visual identity.

In the 1980s, Cartier introduced the ‘Panthere’ watch, a distinctly-80s women’s timepiece designed to capture the spirit of the brand’s iconic panther motif. The watch featured a square case with a diamond-set bezel and a flexible bracelet representing a panther’s agility and grace. The Panthere watch was a hit among discerning ladies and remains a pleasantly obscure favorite to this day.

Cartier has continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watch design in recent years, exploring new materials such as carbon fiber with great fanfare. However, the attraction of the brand’s flagship designs is still the driving force behind Cartier and certainly represents the ideal version of Cartier’s watches, hence why we’re focussing on the company’s vintage offerings here.

Notable Vintage Cartier Watches

Cartier Santos

Since its public release in 1911, seven years after Louis Cartier created the first model for his friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos line has become a key part of Cartier’s catalog and may well be the brand’s most popular watch among men. 

Traditionally masculine features such as a square face and a prominent bezel are key attributes of the Santos. But, of course, Cartier has done things their way, rounding the edges of the case and creating a frame-like bezel with exposed screws. These subtle changes place the Santos in a singular realm of design; strong yet soft, conclusive yet fluid.

The most notable version of the Santos is the Cartier Santos Dumont, the longest-running iteration of the design and, thus, the closest to the original watch. These can be found with both quartz and automatic movements in steel, gold, and two-tone finishes. As with all the Santos variations, the Dumont looks best on a bracelet. Trust me.

Another strong contender for the most attractive vintage Santos is the Santos Galbee, which was released in the 1980s. Cartier’s response to the quartz crisis, the Galbee (which means ‘curved’ in French), is a touch more bowed than previous models, hugging the wrist with its slightly arching profile. For this reason, the Galbee is generally considered the most comfortable Santos, a claim I wholeheartedly agree with!

Cartier Tank

The Tank is quite obviously the most iconic member of the Cartier watch family. Its simple design and universal wearability make it a celebrated timepiece – a rectangular-shaped case, and gently rounded form have become definitive elements of horological culture since the Tank’s creation in 1917. 

The brancard case sides are not only frames for the dial but lugs as well, and it is this transition from frame to lug that defines the minimal personality of the Tank. Like most Cartier watches, the Tank is traditionally adorned with Roman numerals, so expect to see a lot of Xs and Vs during your search for the right one.

The Tank Louis Cartier was the second generation of this classic timepiece (the first being the Tank Normale) and, thus, remains a highly sought-after and respected watch that certainly has a place in every collection. 

The Must De Cartier Tank was introduced in the ‘70s as a more affordable entry into the brand, with either an ETA or quartz movement and a reductively plain face. Although the Tank Must can be found with a variety of dial designs, the single-colored variations are the most definitive of this model and, if you ask me, the most beautiful.

Finally, the Asymetrique is perhaps the most daring version of the Tank, having turned heads with its slanted appearance since 1936. The Asymetrique is certainly an acquired taste, given its off-center design, but this watch is an absolute icon in the world of fashion and haute horology.

Ronde De Cartier

What makes the Ronde De Cartier range different from most Cartier watches is obvious – these timepieces are round. The fact that, like most watches, the design of the Ronde case is circular doesn’t detract at all from the stark Cartier-ness of these tickers. 

The Cartier Ronde Must, a highly affordable steel design that’s available with either a quartz or automatic heart, is Cartier’s most approachable watch. Fret not – the dial, blue hands, and blue stone crown all define this watch as a Cartier, even if it doesn’t have four sides.

As with the Tank collection, there is a Ronde Louis Cartier, which represents a higher-end version of the Ronde Must, with an automatic movement, rose gold case, and blue sapphire crown. Like the Ronde Must, the Louis Cartier is available in altogether approachable sizes, with the most common being the 36mm.

Panthere

First seen in a watercolor painting made for Louis Cartier in 1914 (which would go on to become Cartier’s main symbol), Cartier’s favorite cat would eventually (inevitably, some would say) lend its name to the brand’s seminal unisex release. Studded with diamonds and produced in smaller sizes, the Panthere line was unveiled in 1983 and represents the merging of Cartier’s jewelry and horological pursuits. 

Reminiscent of a smaller, more feminine Santos Dumont, the Panthere line is defined by a riveted, square bezel, Roman numerals, a faceted octagonal crown, and a five-piece link bracelet.

From its introduction, the Panthere was made available in 5 sizes, mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo. Note that although jumbo brings to mind images of building-sized trucks and human head-sized burgers, the Panthere Jumbo maxes out at a dainty 31mm. Hardly the wrist-eating watch that its size descriptor alludes to.

Although they’re available in steel and all-gold, it’s the two-tone Panthere that has caught the eyes and hearts of most Cartier enthusiasts, and I certainly think that the dual-metal finish is the most attractive. If you’re particularly interested in the Panthere and have some scratch to spend, look out for the coveted Moonphase model in 18k white gold – it’s one of the most gorgeous watches you’ll ever see.

Should You Buy a Vintage Cartier?

I know – it’s hard not to be captivated by the idea of a Cartier on the wrist of a cooler, classier version of you. But before you take the plunge and make a brash, costly purchase, it’s important to weigh the pros and cons of buying a vintage watch.

On the one hand, vintage Cartiers are a testament to the brand’s history and heritage, given that they exhibit a unique charm that simply can’t be replicated by modern timepieces. They also often feature vintage movements made by some of the most talented watchmakers of the time, rendering them tangible vestiges of Cartier’s illustrious past.

However, these timepieces also come with their fair share of demerits. Being vintage means that whatever you’re buying will have been through years of wear (and tear), and it can be difficult to determine the true condition of an item without the help of an expert.

Additionally, many vintage Cartier watches will have been subtly modified or repaired by unauthorized hands over the years, which can greatly impact their value and authenticity. Ultimately, whether or not you should buy a vintage Cartier depends on your individual preferences and risk tolerance.

If you’re willing to take the time to research and verify the authenticity and condition of a vintage Cartier (which you should definitely do), it can be one of the most rewarding purchases you’ll ever make. However, if you’re not comfortable with the potential risks and uncertainties, it may be better to opt for a modern timepiece instead.

‘Old’ is the New ‘New’

Just as we know the sun rises in the morning, so too do we accept that no collection can be truly complete without a Cartier. With their timeless elegance and rich history, vintage Cartiers offer a uniquely storied glimpse into the world of luxury watchmaking. 

Although purchasing one requires careful consideration and research to ensure its authenticity and value, it’s a quest worth embarking on if you’re after an incomparable timepiece. After all, a Cartier never goes out of style.

The unique appeal of Pepsi timepieces helps them stand out from the sea of other watches on the market. These watches have come to be associated with style, elegance, and a dash of vintage flare because of their recognizable red and blue bezels, modeled by the unique colors of the Pepsi-Cola logo. 

But these timepieces are more complex than first appears. They have a fascinating past closely related to aviation and oceanic exploration. This article serves as a guide to the world of Pepsi watches. 

Whether you’re looking to start your collection with something special, want a cool statement piece, or are trying to make a good investment, a Pepsi watch is the way to go. However, if you’re unsure if they are for you, you’re guaranteed to find out by the end of this article.

A Brief Guide to Pepsi Watches

The history of Pepsi watches, which are distinguished by their recognizable red and blue bezels, dates back to the middle of the 20th century. “Pepsi” describes a color scheme resembling the iconic soft drink’s logo. 

The Rolex GMT-Master, released in 1955 as a tool watch for pilots and foreign travelers, was the first timepiece to include a Pepsi bezel. Since then, the Pepsi bezel has come to be associated with all watches sporting a distinctive color scheme, making these timepieces one of the watch industry’s most well-liked fads.

Why Are They So Popular?

For a number of reasons, Pepsi watches are extremely well-liked among watch aficionados. The red and blue bezel design is aesthetic, arresting, and readily identifiable. It also makes a strong fashion statement when worn on the wrist. The color scheme embodies the spirit of travel and inspires a sense of exploration.

The Pepsi bezel has also evolved into a symbol of nostalgia and tradition. Watches with this recognizable bezel frequently have historical importance or ties to famous manufacturers like Rolex and Tudor. The rich history and tradition connected to these watches are what’s most appealing to enthusiasts.

Should You Buy a Pepsi Watch?

Pepsi watches are for unique people who are daring but not reckless. They are often diver’s watches and GMTs, perfect for travelers, athletes, and hobby divers. You might think they are exclusively for collectors, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. 

Nowadays, Pepsi watches have become so popular that brands at every price point are participating in the trend. Ultimately, if you seek a statement timepiece, want a definite conversation starter, or want to make an investment, you are guaranteed to find a great match in the following list. 

The Best Pepsi Watches

Orient Mako II Pepsi Bezel (ref. FAA02009D9)

The Mako II was originally introduced as an upgrade to the popular Mako line with several notable improvements. The Orient Caliber F6922 grants reliable and accurate timekeeping, all for 40 hours straight. Its stainless steel case measures 41.5mm in diameter, making it just about suitable for smaller-sized wrists too. 

The iconic bezel rotates in one direction only, although it takes more effort than an average diving watch bezel. Being a diver’s watch, the Mako II’s water resistance will keep up with your occasional underwater adventures. The Orient Mako II Pepsi Bezel is a great entry point to the world of Pepsi watches. 

Price: $150

Timex Q GMT (ref. TW2V38000VQ)

The vintage appeal doesn’t have to go without contemporary functionality. Timex, a renowned American watch brand with a rich history dating back to 1854, pays homage to vintage timepieces from the ’70s with the Q GMT’s retro-inspired design. 

The watch has a 38mm polished and brushed stainless steel casing with the Pepsi bezel rotating in both directions. It’s a fully functional GMT, with the 4th hand being responsible for tracking a secondary timezone. The quartz movement isn’t a huge let-down considering the price point. This watch is really hard to hate for any true enthusiast. Its affordability and versatile design make it a popular choice overall. 

Price: $229

Citizen Promaster (ref. NY0086-83L)

Designed for adventure seekers, the Citizen Promaster NY0086-83L is a tough and sporty Pepsi watch. This Promaster model draws inspiration from Citizen’s rich heritage in professional diving watches. It’s equipped with a water resistance of up to 200 meters (660 feet), leaving the door open for deeper-than-average aquatic adventures. 

While you’re down in the deep, the unidirectional rotating bezel helps you not to overestimate your remaining oxygen supply. Using Citizen’s renowned Eco-Drive technology, the Promaster harnesses the energy of light to fuel its quartz movement. It’s an excellent choice for hobby divers looking to stay unique during their diving sessions. 

Price: $250

Seiko SKX009

Radiating the love of enthusiasts, the Seiko SKX009 is an affordable favorite among Pepsi diver’s watches. Born from the rich heritage of Seiko, the SKX009 doesn’t fail the test of quality and reliability. The watch was originally introduced in the 1990s as part of Seiko’s popular Diver’s Watch series. 

It’s now discontinued since 2019, and getting your hands on a used example holds a great challenge due to the increasing demand and limited supply. It features a rugged stainless steel case with a screw-down crown, and it’s powered by the trusty 7S26 automatic movement. It might just be me, but I haven’t seen anyone wearing it without a smile on their face… The Seiko SKX009 became an essential for lovers of Pepsi watches with its timeless style and great value. 

Price: $495

Mathey-Tissot GMT Pepsi Bezel

As you’re conquering the world, you need a reliable and classy wrist companion that lives up to the image of the person wearing it. That’s what the Mathey-Tissot GMT is about. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the 42mm stainless steel case and bracelet offer surprising durability with a small touch of sophistication. 

The design is, of course, deeply rooted in the origins of all Pepsi watches; the Mathey-Tissot GMT borrows many elements of its charm from the Rolex GMT Master II. But I guess there aren’t many Swiss-made Pepsi bezel GMTs on the market for this price after all… The watch is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a reliable option for a fair price. 

Price: $450

Seiko Prospex “Turtle” SRP779K1

A touch of retro charm. The SRP779K1 pays homage to the iconic Seiko 6309 from the 1970s. Its adventure-suited stainless steel case features a unique hefty design referred to as the “Turtle” with a diameter of 45mm. 

The watch is powered by Seiko’s reliable 4R36 automatic movement, which keeps accurate time throughout your diving adventures. The SRP779K1 keeps you stylish and unique up to water depths of 200m. The watch merges the spirit of the original diver’s watch with modern technology, resulting in a refreshing touch to horological heritage. 

Price: $500

Citizen Promaster Marine Aqualand (ref. BN2038-01L)

A diving watch with a ton of features built for exploring the ocean below. The 46mm stainless steel case is attached to your wrist via a sturdy polyurethane strap. The watch features a depth sensor for accurate diving readings and great water resistance of 200 meters. 

The watch is equipped with the Citizen Eco-Drive E168 movement, which uses the power of light to fuel itself. The Citizen Promaster Marine Aqualand is a fantastic option for serious divers looking to show off and impress sharks, octopi, and starfish. 

Price: $650

Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT (ref. 103-1062)

A watch that blends elegance and toughness. Similarly to the Mathey-Tissot GMT, the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT takes inspiration from the Rolex GMT-Master II. It’s powered by a Swiss-made automatic ETA movement in a 39mm stainless steel case. 

The 300-meter water resistance coupled with the unidirectional rotating bezel suggests there is more to this watch than what meets the eye. It’s a great GMT that you can drag along to your aquatic adventures. Adventurous travelers might find this watch a perfect wrist companion for their journeys. 

Price:$600

Lorier Hyperion Series II

A Pepsi watch with a modern twist that’s been largely influenced by historical designs. Lorier is famous for applying a modern touch to its vintage-inspired watches. Since entering the market in the Spring of 2018, Lorier has met critical acclaim in prestigious outlets for producing handsome, rugged, and affordable timepieces. 

These watches are specifically designed to be versatile, romantic, and durable. The Hyperion Series II comes in a small case with a diameter of 39mm, has water resistance up to 200 meters, and it’s powered by the Swiss SW200-1 automatic movement. This watch might easily be an attractive option for watch enthusiasts because of its traditional design features and modern aesthetics. 

Price: $800

Christopher Ward C65 Trident GMT “Pepsi”

Vintage-inspired again, but this time it’s a British-made GMT. The 41mm watch has a Swiss Made Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement and a water resistance of 150 meters. The iconic bezel is made out of aluminum this time, with bidirectional rotation. 

The LumiNova Grade X1 GL C1 ensures visibility of the dial and the hands, even in low-light conditions. The watch has a very competitive price among mechanical GMTs, making it a great option for someone who’s looking for a travel companion with great craftsmanship. 

Price: $1,100

Raymond Weil Tango 300 GMT (ref. 8280-ST3-20001)

A stylish and sporty GMT powered by a Swiss automatic movement. It all started in 1976, in the middle of a watch industry crisis, when Mr. Raymond Weil decided to found his own company. Mr. Weil’s creations were immediately praised by watch enthusiasts – amateurs and connoisseurs alike. 

The Tango 300 GMT is a 42mm travelers timepiece with water resistance up to 300 meters. The ETA 2893-2 automatic movement inside is known for its reliability and accuracy. The asking price of the Pepsi model is a bit higher than the standard GMT, but the added style is worth the extra. 

Price: $1,800

Yema Superman 500 GMT Pepsi Bezel (ref. YGMT22B39-AMS1)

The Yema Superman 500 GMT Pepsi Bezel is a modern interpretation of Yema’s iconic Superman dive watch. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 13mm. The watch is powered by the Swiss Made Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement with a standard GMT function. It has a stunning water resistance of 500 meters. 

The most unique part of this watch is Yema’s unique bezel-locking mechanism that adds security to the unidirectional rotating bezel. Although there are better value options at its price point, the Yema Superman 500 GMT offers fair value for the money, making it a viable option for frequent travelers. 

Price: $1,500

Davosa Ternos Professional TT GMT Pepsi Bezel (ref. 161.571.06)

A Swiss-made watch developed for Aquaman. It has a blue dial, a rotating ceramic bezel, and a stainless steel case. It is perfectly suited for underwater activities, but professional diving is no problem either since it has an outstanding 500-meter water resistance. 

It has a Swiss Made ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, and the Super-LumiNova BGW9 luminescent helps tell the time even in deep underwater conditions. Versatile functionality and a dash of elegance are combined in the Davosa Ternos Professional TT GMT. 

Price: $1,600

Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition (ref. ZO9408)

The Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition is a limited-edition timepiece that pays homage to the iconic Sea Wolf model from the 1960s. It features a stainless steel case, a coveted ‘Crystal’ sunburst dial, and the iconic bi-color rotating bezel. 

The watch has a truly unique design language, with the round dial being accentuated by the case shape. The Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition captures the spirit of adventure and nostalgia, thus being a prized possession for watch collectors.

Price: $1,800

Monta Skyquest Black Gilt

This Swiss-made tool watch kills it with its unique design language. It has a stainless steel case, a ceramic bezel, and a black dial with gilt accents. There is a limited edition model with an opaline silver dial that looks like something from heaven… Its GMT feature makes the watch ideal for world conquerors, although the 150m water resistance won’t let you too far into the ocean. The watch is a great example of Swiss engineering and performance. 

Price: $2,435

Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT (ref. DG3030B-SCJ-BK)

For professionals, the Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT is a reliable and high-functioning timepiece. When Standard Time was adopted in 1883, Webster Clay Ball was the first jeweler to use time signals, bringing accurate time to Cleveland. Today, BALL Watch is one of the most respected and established watch brands in the United States. 

The Roadmaster Marine GMT is a 40mm travelers’ watch with many quirks and features. It has Ball’s ground-breaking Amortiser shock absorption mechanism for increased longevity, while its dial incorporates micro gas tubes for superior luminosity. The watch remains a favorite for its uniqueness, toughness, and style. 

Price: $3,500

TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT (ref. WAY201F.BA0927)

Look no further for a luxury sports watch designed for hobby swimmers and divers. This 43mm watch is powered by the outstandingly precise TAG Heuer Caliber 7 automatic movement and features a water resistance of 300 meters. 

The Pepsi-colored GMT bezel on the Aquaracer rotates in one direction. As its name suggests, the watch is ideal for aquatic sports. Overall this GMT is a great choice for frequent travelers and athletes who want a touch of uniqueness. 

Price: $3,900

Tudor Black Bay GMT Pepsi Bezel (ref. M79830RB-0001)

This chic and functional Pepsi watch blends contemporary design with historical appeal. It draws inspiration from Tudor’s rich diving heritage. It comes in a 41mm case, is powered by Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5652 automatic movement, and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters. 

This watch offers so tremendous value compared to its price, and it’s widely respected among watch enthusiasts. The Tudor Black Bay GMT is an outstanding example of the brand’s history. 

Price: $4,620

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M “Pyeongchang 2018” (ref. 522.32.44.21.03.001)

This timepiece is a limited-edition watch created to commemorate the Pyeongchang 2018 Winter Olympic Games. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm and a thickness of 16.04mm. With its outstanding water resistance of 600 meters, you can bring it to the Atlantic whale party and show it off. 

The watch is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 8900 automatic movement, known for its precision and anti-magnetic properties. It’s a truly high-functioning watch for the price of one of the biggest brands in the history of watchmaking. 

Price: $8,600

Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi (ref. 126710BLRO)

The avalanche starter. The original Pepsi watch. This is an iconic and highly coveted watch from Rolex. Powered by the Rolex Caliber 3285 automatic movement, offering exceptional accuracy among mechanical GMTs. 

Crafted from Rolex’s signature 904L stainless steel, the case of the GMT-Master II Pepsi measures 40mm in diameter. The watch features the iconic Rolex Oyster bracelet, known for its great comfort. The Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi represents the pinnacle of luxury travel watches. Demand for this watch keeps rising, and getting your hands on one is becoming very difficult. 

Price: $10,900

Conclusion

Pepsi watches had a great impact on the watch industry. True watch enthusiasts will always turn their heads when they see the distinctive colorway on someone’s wrist. A Pepsi on your wrist is guaranteed to start a conversation with anyone who has a trained eye for watches. And the best part is that they are available for every budget. 

Whether you’re a businessman trying to keep track of multiple timezones or a hobby diver wanting to show unique style to all the fish around you, there is a Pepsi watch for you. But most importantly, if you have a burning desire to make a statement, these watches are geared to your personality.

Had your eyes on that 126613LB Bluesy? Did you walk into your local authorized Rolex dealer only to be told, “For display only”? Well, welcome to the club. Finding a Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, or even Vacheron Constantin at an actual authorized dealer will be harder than finding a … I’m struggling to find something rarer than that.

Due to the boom in watch popularity in 2020, it is nearly impossible to buy the watch you want without spending thousands on other watches first. I have been on the waiting list for a two-tone Sea-Dweller for three years, and even though I have given them plenty of ‘gifts’, nothing. There must be another way of getting the watch you want, right? Gray Market Watches.

About Gray Market Watches

The term ‘gray market’ is merely a term used to denote that the dealer is neither authorized nor selling black market products. This is a perfectly legal practice, so you needn’t be worried about legality issues. 

Gray market dealers will simply buy watches from collectors, retailers, and other dealers and resell them on their own site/platform. This is an incredibly common practice and allows buyers to ‘skip’ the waiting line we so often see at certain watch companies. 

The origin of gray market dealers isn’t really known; however, in 2019/2020, the watch industry saw a massive boom in second-hand market sales. Some estimate that sales doubled in the span of 18 months, and it wasn’t just with the gray market and private dealers. The Swiss watch industry reported a growth of 15.5% from 2019 to 2022 despite the pandemic. 

Part of this was due to social media. We cannot deny that rappers and professional sports athletes wearing luxury watches do not influence the market. Hell, we even nickname some watches after famous individuals. Then came the onslaught of individuals focused on investing rather than collecting. All of this meant the rise of the gray market dealer. 

Some of the more popular gray market dealers include Jomashop, an online site selling way more than just watches but also selling some other luxury products as well. Another popular one online is Luxury Bazaar, which sells more than just watches and is well known for its YouTube antics. 

Are Gray Market Watches Legit?

Right, the big one, the one you probably clicked on this article for, “Am I getting a legit product, or is my Rolex going to be a Nolex when it arrives?”. Great question, and the one you should be asking right out of the gate. If you’re about to drop $15K on a Submariner, you’d want to be sure it’s the real deal. 

It depends. Watches are often faked; there’s no surprise there. In fact, Havocscope estimates that 40 million counterfeit watches are sold globally each year (Havascope is an online database of black market activities). They also estimate the profits from these watches are close to a billion dollars each year. 

Case in point, a fake vintage Daytona ref. 6240 was almost sold on Accademia Fine Arts, a Monano-based Monégasque auction house, in 2019. Other images of the 6240 were used on the listing, and when confronted with the information that the Daytona was indeed fake, the auction house agreed to pull the listing. They didn’t, and the proven counterfeit still sold for a whopping EUR 78,000.

But the question still remains if the gray market watches are fake or not. It depends. What is key to understand is that a gray market dealer can buy from various sources, including: 

• The actual company: If the watch company either has a boutique or sells their watches online. This isn’t extremely common, especially with high-end horology. That said, it would make sense to grab as many limited edition pieces as you can to resell later on when the demand has increased once again. 

• Other dealers: This is another way gray market dealers buy and sell timepieces. If you know you have a client looking for a ref. 5711, you might ask your list of ‘friends’ if anyone has one at a price that makes sense for you, the other dealer, and your customer. Then, you simply purchase the watch and sell it to your client. 

• From the public: This is the path that is most likely to yield ‘bad’ results for all parties involved. If the person is selling a fake watch and the dealer doesn’t pick up on this, then they might accidentally end up selling a fake watch. This does not happen that often, though.

It’s worth noting that not all gray market dealers are the same. Some only buy from watch companies, while others are happy to buy a watch from Joe halfway across the world. 

It’s somewhat important to know where your watch is actually coming from, but since you are buying it from a company and not someone off Facebook, you can contact them afterward to confront them if the watch is fake. 

Another reason you are likely to find real watches from these dealers is the fact that they will do everything they can to improve the value of the watch. Marketing, polishing, cleaning, research, etc. When you spend that much time (and money) on a watch, you are going to see if something is up.

So, for the most part, gray market watches are legit, and there are ways of sniffing out what’s real against what isn’t. One way to improve your chances of never getting a fake watch is actually connecting with the individuals in the company. Similar to how you would approach the owners and salespeople at an authorized dealer, if you’re nice to them, they end up being nice to you. 

You’re perhaps more likely to bargain with you and could even be more inclined to find a specific watch you are after. Consignment is not something every gray market dealer offers, but it’s a useful tool and a nice addition to the sales pitch. 

What to Look for When Buying Gray Market Watches

Obviously, various factors will influence your decision when choosing both the watch and the dealer. Let’s discuss some of these:

Buy the Dealer, Not the Watch

Have you noticed how frantic collectors and buyers are about boxes, papers, and serial numbers? That’s for good reason because that is how we judge how ‘real’ a watch is. Follow-up question, have you noticed that you might not always be able to tell a fake box from a real one? A fake warranty card from a real one? The thing is, most of us are very susceptible to ‘finding the perfect watch’ and overlooking glaring issues. Thus, buy the dealer. 

What this means is that you should do research on the dealer. Delve deep, read the reviews, contact previous clients, etc. There are so many things you can do to make sure the dealer is actually legit. A seller’s reputation will far precede themself, and doing a bit of digging will reveal whether or not you can actually trust the dealer. 

There are a couple of websites/destinations you can use to get more information on the dealer. 

• Reddit: A great place to ask other buyers or people who have sold to the dealer. You can message the other folks on the forum but note that people can ‘fake’ stories by using a pseudonym.

• Forums: Watch forums like Rolex Forums, Omega Forums, etc, which will give you some information on the dealer (if they are large enough). You won’t always find the information you need on these forums; however, it’s worth a shot. 

• Social Media: Websites like Instagram and Facebook might be able to give you relevant information. Most likely the dealer will have some kind of social media presence and if things look fishy or too good to be true, you need to be careful.

• (Unlikely) Word of Mouth: If you are very well connected in the watch world, you might be able to ask your horologically-inclined friends whether or not the dealer you’re about to approach is legit.

Another useful tool often overlooked is the ‘Authorized’ logo that some websites give. Chrono24 is a massive online watch sales site that allows private and gray market dealers to sell watches. If you are deemed ‘good enough’ by the company and by past clients, only then will you receive the ‘Authorized’ marking, making you far more trustworthy to potential clients. 

And, if possible, go see the dealer. Talk to them, see what they’re about. Talk about movements, the last Watches and Wonders, etc. This might not give you specific data, but sometimes trusting your gut is the best thing you can do. 

What’s Included in the Sale

As mentioned before, watches are usually sold as a ‘lot’ which includes the watch, box, and papers (warranty and booklets). Other things that might be included in the lot are extra straps, strap-changing tools, a loupe, a watch cloth, a screw-down caseback, etc.

The possibilities are endless, really; I’ve seen watches with lots so large you get tired of reading them. A good starting place is going to the manufacturer’s site and seeing what is usually included in the lot.

Alternatively, you can look at other listings on other sites like Chrono24 to see what a ‘Full Set’ would consist of. It’s not a massive red flag if the lot doesn’t include everything usually sold with the watch; however, take precautions and use common sense. 

Quality of the Watch

On to the biggie – what does the watch actually look like? Typically, companies will use a grading scale to determine the quality of a watch. These can differ from vendor to vendor; here’s an example: 

• AAA: Completely unworn and like new 
• AA: May have been lightly worn/retail handling. May have light marks.
• A: Worn. Marks, but not significant.
• B: Significant marks which may not be removable.
• C: Heavily worn. Significant marks/dents which may not be removable.
• Vintage: Signs of wear and visible imperfections commensurate with age. Replacement components and case refinishing may be evident, and movement may not be running to the original specification.

Have a look at the watch. Scratches along the bracelet and clasp are incredibly common. Deeper scratches might be harder to remove with polishing, and deep scratches on the crystal are a big no-no – unless the price is right. 

Having a watch polished won’t be too expensive, but the costs add up. If they are expecting the same money from a mint watch as one that’s been banged up, they are being silly. Not uncommon in the watch world… 

It’s impossible for you to see if the movement is working well, but some companies do specify whether or not the movement is working well. Movements can cost a pretty penny to have serviced, and opting for a watch that already has a good movement will save you a lot of trouble. This leads me to the next point.

Is the Watch Serviced?

According to SwissWatchExpo, a watch service can cost anything between $600 and $1200. Again, not a huge cost, but if you’re buying a nice PRX for $450 second-hand and you have to pay another $200 for a service… See what I mean? 

When purchasing a watch from a gray market dealer, you have to look at all the costs associated that an authorized dealer would just include in the final sale. A service, polishing, shipping, these things do add up.

Plus, if you are purchasing from across the border, you’ll be paying import taxes as well. And if you do have the watch shipped, you rush down the stairs to collect the box, and you open the box in angst only to find… it’s fake? What then?

Stop Buying Fake Watches

Fake watches are rampant in the world, and there’s not much we can do about it. But you can make sure you don’t buy a watch that is fake. This is especially common in the vintage segment as vintage watches can carry huge price tags and everyone is looking to make a quick buck. 

There are numerous guides online on how to spot a fake timepiece, and you have to be sure the watch you’re investing in isn’t fake. Here are some factors to look at where con artists usually make mistakes: 

• Date windows will often be the wrong color, wrong font, or wrong font size 
• Finishing along the case and bracelet will be shoddy and poor 
• Movement finishing (might) be visible if the model has a sapphire caseback 
• Font on the dial might have minor imperfections 
• Certain markings on the lugs, caseback, and bracelet can sometimes be forgotten 

And then lastly, serial numbers. It’s not often that a dealer will share these, but if they are willing to do so, you have a one-way ticket to see if the watch is actually real or not. 

Consider the Price

Price will be one of, if not the biggest factor when purchasing a watch. Right off the bat, we know that if something appears too good to be true, it probably is. That John Player Special Daytona you found for only $100K might be more Nolex than Rolex. 

There are no precise guides on what a watch will or should cost since the market determines that; however, you can look at sites like Chrono24 and WatchAnalytics to find the ballpark of what the watch is worth. Take note that a watch sold by a private vendor will always be slightly cheaper due to fewer ‘fees’ needing to be paid – this lower price, of course, comes with an increased risk of buying a fake watch. 

Are They in a Great Hurry? 

Ever noticed those sales that have to happen today or … I’m not quite sure what happens if the sale doesn’t happen today, actually. Usually, these people are looking to scam you and are using sales tactics to try and allure you. It’s extremely unlikely that a real gray market vendor will ever do this, they’ll just run a regular discount/sale on a watch, so, if you see a ‘Must Sell Today!” take caution and do plenty of research. 

Dealers that ‘Specialize’

You’ll sometimes come across a gray market dealer that specializes in a certain style or type of watch – typically vintage offerings. These incredibly hard-working and precise individuals go to painstaking measures to ensure the watches they get their hands on are real.

If you are buying a high-value or vintage piece, you need to do even more research. You have to compare photos of your offering vs. real iterations, and you might need to use the ‘zoom’ function a lot. It wouldn’t hurt to also have someone to discuss this with. All in all, the more value a watch carries, the more likely someone is to fake it. 

Gray Market vs Authorized Dealers

As mentioned, there are two kinds of dealers which you can purchase from; three if you count boutiques as well. Gray Market dealers and Authorized dealers are vastly different from one another, so let’s delve into some of the key differences that might influence your purchase. 

Watch Availability

Let’s face it you probably have been on the waiting list, or you’ve heard the words “Sorry, no stock” for way too long. There has been a mountain of cries from fans and collectors that authorized dealers should stop this silliness and just sell to the person who shows up first (I’ll admit, I am one of them). 

In case you are not aware, certain watch companies have been putting good folks on waiting lists. The problem is these are not really waiting lists. The way it works is they sell to their ‘best friends’, the people who have spent the most money at their company.

This would mean you need to purchase several other watches before you get the one you want. Gray market dealers, on the other hand, have no alliance. No flag. No ‘best friends’. Money talks, and the one who shows up first wins. 

Another factor to consider is that authorized dealers don’t stock vintage watches, and if the limited editions are sold out tough luck. Gray market dealers have the ability to stock any and every watch they please – even a one-of-one. This, of course, does mean they can ask slightly more, but it’s the price we pay for not waiting 5 years. 

Pricing

To follow what I just hinted at, gray market dealers do charge more than authorized dealers. Let’s look at an example, the Bluesy Rolex ref. 126613LB, 2023, unworn. Retail price sits at $15,600, while you might be expected to pay $18,288 at a gray market dealer while you would (perhaps) pay $17,553 at a private dealer. 

Let’s look at an example that has risen in price so much that it becomes questionable – the Patek Philippe 5711/1R. The retail price sits at $59,140 (as of Dec 2021), while the market price is estimated to be $190,088! 

There is no getting around the fact that the watch market has exploded since 2020, and, unfortunately, this has made plenty of models inaccessible to most of us. It has been dying down the last few months, but you can expect to pay 10 – 100% more than retail. 

Authenticity

We have gone down the rabbit hole of fake watches before, but just to double down on what we mentioned earlier, gray market dealers do run the risk of accidentally selling a fake watch. This is unlikely, especially if you opt for a trustworthy dealer. 

This will never be the case with an authorized dealer – unless you purchase a watch out of a suspiciously marked van… Jokes aside, authorized dealers will sell you the real deal. This includes everything that should be included in the lot as well – box, outside sleeve, papers, swing tags, etc. 

Warranty 

As mentioned before, the repair on a watch can run you a pretty penny. If you bump your watch three days after purchasing it, you will wish you had a warranty. The problem is that most gray market dealers do not offer a warranty. However, there are some that do. Some gray market dealers offer a warranty on the movement or the entire watch. 

You will (probably) get a warranty from an authorized dealer. These may vary from two up to eight years and typically covers most types of damage. Most movements will only need to be serviced after ten years, but the warranty gives you peace of mind in case the watch gets a booboo. 

‘Who are You?’ 

While I hate mentioning it, if you are to buy from an authorized dealer, you are more likely to be able to purchase a higher-value watch from them in the future. Authorized dealers ‘guard’ their best pieces for their best clients, and while this is completely unethical, I get it.

If you are going to buy from your local authorized dealer, they will probably place you higher on the ‘waiting list’ than you currently are. Of course, this isn’t really a good thing if watch A isn’t a watch you really wanted, but it’s worth mentioning. 

It’s worth mentioning because gray market dealers usually carry a markup on the watches due to market value. The market value is solely determined by how little patience you have before you need the watch you really want. If you are looking to make a turnover on watches and perhaps look at investing, this is probably the way to go. 

You might need to purchase a few lower-value watches before buying something that makes sense economically; however, with second-hand watches beating the S&P 500 in the last couple of years, it will be worth it in the end. Just make sure to buy the right ones… 

Should you Buy Gray Market Watches?

Let’s cut to the chase – should you buy a gray market watch? Well, it depends. While there are slight risks and some nuances to the transaction, there are certain situations where it would be far better to go for a gray market option:

• Limited edition watches that have been sold out from your local authorized dealer will only be available at a gray market dealer. You might still need to do a lot of research to find it, and you might even need to ask them to find it for you, but it is possible. 

• If your authorized dealer isn’t playing nice then you might need to resort to a gray market dealer because you have to. Do your research prior and make sure you have a trusted dealer and the watch is real. 

• Watches that are in high demand might also be hard to find at your local authorized dealer. Case in point, I haven’t seen a Tudor Black Bay Pro at my local authorized dealer in 8 months because they never have stock. If I want one, I would need to find one at a gray market dealer and be willing to perhaps pay an inflated price due to high demand.

• If the watch is no longer being produced or, in other words, a vintage timepiece, then you might need to resort to a gray market dealer – they tend to be slightly safer than going to a private dealer. 

If you are looking for that ‘AAA’ option and you need to continue or start building a relationship with your local authorized dealer, then going to the gray market dealer would (obviously) be the second choice. Just know that authorized dealers do have their own drawbacks and benefits: 

• Sure, you might wait longer but you get the real deal which means you can sleep easily at night knowing your watch is 100% real. 

• You get the added benefit of a warranty period but keep in mind that plenty of gray market dealers have their own warranty protocol as well.

• You build a relationship that allows you to purchase ‘bigger’ watches in the future. This isn’t likely to happen with a gray market dealer, but they might be able to give you a better price if you continue coming back to them time after time. Gray market dealers that know you are also more likely to offer you investment pieces before they offer them to the public because they’re helping someone who helps them.

In the end, the decision lies with you. For plenty of us, there is no other way but going through a gray market dealer – thank you waiting lists. All you need to do is ensure that the dealer is trustworthy and the watch itself is legit – no pressure.

Conclusion

Gray market dealers are an excellent way of getting the piece you want – now. They are also able to sell you discontinued or vintage options as well, something no authorized dealer ever will. That said, there is an inherent risk with buying from a gray market dealer, the risks being that the company isn’t trustworthy and the watch might be fake. 

Thus, when considering a gray market approach, you need to do a lot of research prior to putting down your $7K for that Speedy. It’s not often that you will get robbed, it’s far more likely with a private seller, but be vigilant.

Above all, ask and ask once more. Ask for references, reviews, images, serial numbers, and anything else you can think of. Knowledge is power in this case. So, call up your local Gray market dealer and tell ‘em you’re ready for your ‘Sub; you’re done waiting for a call; you are the one who calls now!