Category: Watch Reviews

The panda dial first caught my eye on a Seinfeld episode. Jerry wore a Breitling Chronomat with a reverse panda dial. The dial and “rouleax” were on full display as he talked over a cup of coffee.

But luxury watches with black-on-white or white-on-black dial designs reigned long before Seinfeld and are back to stay. As you probably know, they are named after the cute and clumsy Panda bear. There’s no telling who named it, but it’s clearly a befitting name for the design. 

Take a stroll back in time with me as we trace its origins to the 60s. And enter the moment with a list of 15 adorable panda dial watches in 2023.

History of The Panda Dial on Watches

The panda dial was a trend that took off in the 1960s, but its origin is unknown. However, most enthusiasts attribute its origin to the king, the Rolex Daytona. While there’s some truth to that, it’s technically not factual.

The earliest known panda dial is Breitling’s original 1957 Superocean. But it was a reverse panda dial.  White-on-black dial chronographs only took off after the Rolex Daytona 6239 hit the market in 1963. With its success, top luxury watchmakers released panda dial versions of their favorite timepieces. 

Maybe it was too cute to resist, or their designers just wanted a share of this new market–we’ll never know! Ultimately though, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6239 is the first known pure panda dial (white dial with black sub-dials). 

Breitling released its first true panda dial in 1964, TAG Heuer (Carrera) in 1968, and Zenith’s El Primero in 1969 was the first multi-colored version.

Design That Pops

There’s a saying that people buy with emotions, not reason. Sure, there are features you may love, but you eventually purchase an item based on how it makes you feel. This can’t be any truer with the panda dial. Watch enthusiasts love the dial for its name, look, and how it’s a surefire way to show off a chronograph. 

The panda has no special features except for the watchmaker’s complication for that model. That’s why it’s a timeless style. You can buy a “nameless” brand, wear a quartz watch, and still enjoy the black-and-white appeal. 

Choosing one boils downs to your budget and level of craftsmanship on the dial, first of all. Then your choice of strap material, movement complications, or bezel design is at the heart of it. Fortunately, our extensive list cuts across many options to meet your taste. 

Types of Panda Dial Watches

As you may have noticed earlier from the history of panda dials, it’s not exclusive to the typical white-and-black color combination. Here are three types of panda dials you’ll come across. 

1. True Panda Dial 

True to the face of the Chinese panda, true panda dial watches have a white dial and two or three black sub-dials. 

2. Reverse Panda Dial

It’s a watch with the reverse of a pure panda dial – a black main dial with white sub-dials. And it can be a non-black-and-white color scheme. But they are also available in several combinations, like Zenith’s El Primero, with gold dial and black sub-dials. 

3. Multi-colored Panda Dial 

The multicolored or tri-colored panda dial has a single-colored base dial with sub-dials in multiple colors. Zenith originated this style with its 1969 El Primero models with a white background and subdials in three colors. The tri-colored A386’s sub-dials were silver, black, and blue. 

The 15 Panda Dial Watches Worth Buying in 2023

Here’s my selection of the best panda dial watches on the market. Some are iconic chronographs from celebrated brands, and a few are innovative quartz timepieces for the budget-conscious enthusiast.

1. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Starts from approximately $14,000 

The Daytona line (past and present) includes some of the rarest watches worldwide. For one, Paul Newman’s Paul Newman Daytona (ref. 6239) is the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction. 

The original series from the 60s had four-digit serial numbers and are the pioneer panda dial watches. They were hand-wound and had solid sub-dial colors, unlike the modern Daytona editions. You’ll spend no less than $100,000 on a vintage Daytona. 

However, modern Daytonas, like the ref.116500, sport a less prominent panda design. The sub-dials are less pronounced because only their outer tracks have a contrasting color. But pricier models like the 116528 feature the solid panda face we’d love to see in a yellow-gold case. 

It’s not just the technical and artistic prowess that makes the Daytona special. Wearing one with a panda dial also puts you in the one percent of collectors and enthusiasts. 

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 26331ST.OO.1220ST.03

Starts from approximately $46,000

The Royal Oak is arguably one of the greatest luxury sports watches for men. And its panda dial version is no different when you consider the level of attention to detail in crafting it. 

The iconic “Grand Tapisserie” embossing on its silver-white dial is only found in AP Royal Oaks. There’s also an artistic spiral pattern on the blackened sub-registers you’d only see from brands like AP and GP.

Since the panda dial is only a look, there’s plenty more to stare at if you’re prepared to whip out the cash. The Royal Oak also has white-gold applied hour markers and a 41mm scratch-proof octagonal stainless steel with a brush finish that’s a beauty in the eye of the beholder and onlookers. 

The pushers are carved in a matching octagonal style and are level with the screw-locked crown. Audemars Piguet provides matching Royal Oak cufflinks to rock your timepiece like royalty to top off the look. 

3. Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0118221G1P1)

Starts from approximately $8,750

Breitling Chronographs got me enchanted when I first saw Jerry wearing the Chronomat and Navitimer. But I thought the latter was quite oversized. Breitling provides solace, though, in the Premier B01 chronograph AB0118221G1P1. It’s the polar opposite with a sleek 42mm stainless steel case and “true” panda dial. 

The bi-compax – only two subdials – panda dial is simple yet handsome. Its contrast of black and white and subtle red on the inner bezel is refreshing. Although some enthusiasts may wish it was more clutter-free. 

The B01’s sleek old-school stopwatch-like crown and pushers have the graceful low-key look of a sports watch. Perhaps even a dress watch. The two rectangular pushers stay flush on the same line as the crown.  With the absence of a bezel, you’ll appreciate the discreet push-down buttons even more.

4. Omega Speedmaster Pulsometer (ref. CK2998)

Starts from approximately $7,000

CK2998 is a vintage Omega Speedmaster from 1959 and the first Omega in space. Omega re-introduced this classic in a stunning panda dial and aesthetic leather strap. It’s set in a 39mm case with three subdials.

This rare panda dial watch is limited to only 2,998 pieces. It’s powered by a manual winding movement and has a rare pulsometer, which completes its vintage status. The pulsometer – used to check heartbeats per minute – is inscribed onto its black ceramic bezel. 

On the contrary, Omega beautifully signs the limited edition number on the CK2998’s case back. It’s like a certificate of its exclusivity. 

With this status and design, the Moonwatch Pulsometer is one of the best panda dial chronographs within the $10k range. It has all the requirements for a good resale: scarcity, value, and demand. 

5. Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival

Starts from approximately: $7,000

The Zenith El Primero is one of the more manly chronographs with a panda dial. Its tonneau shape – rectangular with rounded edges – case wears well as a bold sporty, or dressy watch. But even more impressive is how it encircles the white-lacquered panda dial and black tachymeter in a 37mm darkened steel case. 

Like the Omega Moonwatch, the A384 (Ref 03.A384.400) Revival is a modern remake of the vintage A317. It was Zenith’s first steel watch to use the El Primero high-frequency automatic caliber from 1969. 

You’ll experience the El Primero movement sweeping across the lacquered dial at 36,000 beats per minute for 50 hours non-stop. Not to forget the ladder bracelet originally produced by legendary watch designer Gay Freres. It’s a relatively slim-profile and lightweight strap with a classic stamped clasp. 

6. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Starts from approximately $5,450

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is a great panda dial chronograph for hobbyists and followers of new-school tool watches. 

Released in 2021, the Black Bay Chrono M79360 offers both original and reverse panda dials and a few strap attachments. The M79360 has two “panda eyes” at (3 and 9 o’clock) a tachymeter scale, and trademark Tudor indexes and hands. 

This model has a stainless steel bracelet, but you can get black fabric and leather options. It packs a ton of value with the features it offers at its price point.

A COSC-certified Omega or Rolex with 70 hours of power reserve, chronograph, lume, and tachymeter will cost a few more thousand. Not to mention its five-year guarantee coverage. Plus, it sports a vintage Daytona look that will pass as a budget alternative.

7. TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback (ref. CBE511B.FC8279)

Starts from approximately $6,750

The Autavia Flyback panda is the third release from TAG Heuer’s 60th anniversary. It came in after the Black edition with a refreshing gray dial and multicolored panda. 

The bold design includes black subdials and a silver window at 6 o’clock. Complete with a sporty screw-down crown and chronograph pushers. The Autavia Flyback is even more beautiful at night when the SuperLuminova-applied hands and Arabic numerals light up. 

This model is the perfect everyday watch. While the 42mm Flyback Chronometer looks oversized, it’s considerably lightweight. 

But the real magic of this watch lies in its performance. Its COSC-certified movement is a powerhouse with a power reserve of up to 80 hours and is made in-house. It also has a trademark flyback function to set and reset the stopwatch with a single button. 

Also, if you’re a fan of the exhibition-style casebacks, Tag Heuer Autavia has one for you. And the Flyback movement is one beauty to behold. Overall, though, this model with a panda dial is a great option if you’re looking for a masterful combination of style and function. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary (ref. 3569.31.00)

Starts from approximately $16,950

The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI is another panda dial on the list celebrating one of humankind’s greatest achievements – the moon landing. And what better honor than to use one of the most iconic dials of the 60s. 

Its panda dial has a clean, artistic silvered white background and three close-knitted subdials. Flip the watch, and you’ll be greeted with a colorful Bald Eagle soaring over the moon on its case back. It’s the original Apollo XI mission patch. 

And, of course, the robust stainless steel case and tachymeter scale Speedmaster fans have adored for decades. 

Powering the watch is an in-house Omega 1861 movement with a decent 40-hour reserve and 21,600 beats per minute. What’s interesting, though, is that caliber 1861 is an evolution of the 861s from the original Moonwatch models. 

Get a Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary if you love timeless, exclusive watches. Each watch is even inscribed with a number to prove its exclusivity. 

9. Girard Perregaux Laureato Chronograph (ref. 81020-11-131-11A)

Starts from approximately $5,000

This GP Laureato 42mm carries an astoundingly stunning panda dial! But its beauty goes beyond the panda dial for a watch with craftsmanship similar to the Patek Philippe Nautilus and AP Royal Oak. Firstly, the Laueato’s dial is a Clous De Paris guilloche with small pyramid-like knobs, also seen in brands like Patek Philippe and Breguet. 

Secondly, it’s clothed in a unique octagonal 904L – contains high chromium – case with sublime scratch resistance. Or simply, wear the Laureato in an 18-carat pink gold case. If you pay attention to the detailing on your watches, you’ll appreciate the contrasting polished finish on the bezel and pushers. 

The GP Laureato is also incredibly comfortable to wear with its matching integrated 904L steel bracelet. It’s unsurprisingly one of the best luxury sports watches from this decade. 

Girard Perregaux Laureato uses an in-house GP03300 automatic movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Interestingly but unsurprising, it’s also gem-studded with 63 jewels, so you can bet it’ll run for generations. This chronograph is perfect if you want a panda dial chronograph at the top of your collection. 

10. Bremont ALT1-C

Starts from approximately $6,295

A two-face panda dial, the ALT1-C is another classic masterpiece worth your time. Its timeless design dates back to military use as a pilot watch. Its panda design speaks for itself with contrasting white-on-black backgrounds and subdials facilitating easy reading. 

Although I prefer Arabic numeral indexes on a dial, Bremont replacing them with stick indexes gives the dial a clean, minimalist look. Not to mention that they’re in-laid with Super Luminova, which provides it with a pristine look in the dark. 

What’s more, the ALT1-C’s 43mm satin-finished case complements the overall look of the dial perfectly. The case is missing a functional bezel-like tachymeter, but this actually makes it a dressier option.

And its see-through case back exhibits the Caliber 13 BE-50AE with 25 jewels and 42 hours of power reserve. Like most top-tier watches on our list within its price range, the Caliber 13 is a highly accurate and reliable movement. And it has a COSC certification as proof of quality. 

Ultimately, the Bremont ALT1-C is a relatively average chronograph in this review. But that means it’s durable, accurate, and a beautiful panda watch.

11. Montblanc Timewalker (ref. 118490)

Starts from approximately $5,400

Again, I’m a big fan of dials with Arabic numerals, and hopefully, there’s a comrade who also sees this beauty. 

If not, you can consider the Montblanc Timewalker as a budget alternative to the Omega Apollo XI. Although you won’t enjoy the prestige of the Moonwatch or its Apollo XI medallion, you’ll save over $10,000 and get an equally beautiful panda dial. 

This Timewalker model is a solid 43mm timepiece with high-quality materials like a ceramic bezel and solid stainless steel build. It runs on a Richemont ValFleurier – a respected Swiss movement maker – caliber 25.10. A powerful self-winding column wheel movement with 46 hours of power reserve. 

I’ll recommend the Montblanc Timewalker 118490 for a watch enthusiast who values quality and economy over prestige in a panda dial watch.

12. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

Starts from approximately $2,000

I’ve always had a soft spot for Hamilton watches, and the Intra-Matic Auto is no different from its vintage-inspired design to its reliable movement. 

The Intra-Matic Auto has a classic look reminiscent of the 60s and is a remake of a 1968 signature piece. While you can’t help but appreciate its distinctive two-eyed panda, you’d love the classic dial even more. 

Its internal bezel fills the “empty” appeal of the polished case and pushers. The calf leather strap is eye candy and develops a unique shine as you break it in. 

And if you cherish movement engineering, you’d be proud of its H-31 movement. It displays great attention to detail and craftsmanship for its price with features like a column wheel mechanism, a monobloc rotor, and perlage on the main plate. 

For the more casual enthusiasts, this translates into reliable 60 hours of power reserve and steady accuracy of +/-30 seconds a day. The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a great pick for a retro-watch lover gunning for a complete vintage panda on a budget. 

13. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813P1

Starts from approximately $680

The Seiko Speedtimer SS813 is the most affordable panda dial chronograph with some interesting features to boot.

Arguably its standout feature is its solar-powered movement. A solar ring on the edge of the dial charges the movement, which means the watch can run forever without a battery change or winding. Actually, it has a power reserve of up to six months.

Although touted as “cheap” by hardcore watch enthusiasts, a solar chronograph is an innovative, practical, and eco-friendly feature newbie watch enthusiasts love. 

The SSC813’s panda dial is a change from what we’ve sear. The hazy look of its finish has a striking contrast against the black bezel that can grow on you. And there’s the case and bracelet with the famous Seiko hairline and brush finish, which even quartz haters respect. 

14. Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph (ref. T1374271101100)

Starts from approximately $5,200

The Tissot PRX is a GP Laureato lookalike that’s functional enough to be a budget alternative to the $18,000 powerhouse. 

Now, don’t expect to see the level of craftsmanship of the Laureato, like the guilloche-patterned dial, in the PRX. But you’ll get a 42mm clean satin-finished octagonal-cased timepiece with a lovely panda dial. 

It moves away from the conventional green ta blue-colored SuperLuminova hands and indexes. What’s more, the Tissot PRX has an integrated-like bracelet with quick release. However, it doesn’t have micro-adjustment, and you’ll have to settle for half links to resize it. 

In terms of functionality, the PRX is highly capable, with a stronger 60-hour power reserve Valjoux A05.H31 movement. However, it’s only accurate to -10/+20 seconds a day. 

15. Longines Heritage 1973 (ref. L2.791.4.72.0)

Starts from approximately: $2,900

The Longines Heritage 1973 is a watch that oozes retro charm. It’s a stunning homage to a bygone era, with a design inspired by the racing chronographs of the 1970s. 

Its cushion-shaped case, combined with the white dial and contrasting black subdials, and blue-numbered tachymeter, creates a striking visual impact that is impossible to ignore.

The tonneau case is only 40mm, so it would perfectly fit most hands and is a prime candidate for a versatility watch. It’s brushed on the top and polished on the sides, which is an eye-catcher in my opinion. 

The Longines Heritage 1973 is also one of the more affordable panda dial watches from a reputable Swiss brand. And its resale value has been on the rise for almost a decade. It might be a sporty chrono, but it still carries a dressy vibe which is Longines’ prestige anyway.

Conclusion

Panda dial watches are no doubt timeless. But you don’t have to break the bank or settle for less. There’s an endless list of options, as seen in our showcase of the 15 best panda dial watches on the market. 

With its unparalleled precision, durability, and reputation, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the crown jewel of our list. It is a watch that combines iconic design with legendary performance, making it a must-have for any serious collector.

At the same time, the Seiko Speedtimer SSC813 proves that luxury doesn’t always have to come with a hefty price tag. This watch offers exceptional value for money, combining a classic panda dial with reliable Japanese craftsmanship.

Regardless of whether you’re an avid collector or a newbie enthusiast, you’ll find one suitable for your budget and style. So, why not consider adding one to your collection and experience the timeless allure of this vintage design for yourself?

In our modern digitalized world famous for the “internet of everything”, it’s easy to forget that analog tools and their functions in the decades before computers were actually the norm. Today, most people can pick up a tool or instrument from the past and have no idea what it is or how it would even work.

Heck, try even explaining what a “VHS” tape is to my 5-year-old niece and why we’d have to drive to the local Blockbuster down the road to rent one every Friday night in the 1990s instead of just switching on Netflix (how “20th Century” of us). 

Even watches overall are “outdated tech”; need the time? Simply look at the corner of your computer screen, or pull out your iPhone to quickly check. But what do you do if your battery dies or you forget your phone at home?

I’m not suggesting that everyone has multiple analog redundancies for every part of their waking lives; however, simple things like wristwatches can function as totems, expressions of our aesthetic sense and tastes, and nostalgic reminders of when things weren’t so digital.   

About the Slide Rule Complication

On the topic of watches (that’s why you’re here after all, right?), it can be said with certainty that every function and complication developed came out of a specific real-world use or need. Take, for example, the dive bezel, used to track the elapsed time on a dive to ensure the user isn’t subject to decompression sickness.

Or the GMT hand, developed specifically for pilots frequently traveling across time zones. But perhaps the most visually impactful, with functions not limited to one specific purpose, is the sliding rule complication (or slide rule bezel).

Developed by Breitling in the 1950s at the request of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the sliding rule bezel was applied on the now iconic Navitimer (“navigation timer”) model to aid pilots in navigation and perform complicated arithmetic with a simple twist of the bezel. 

This feature was a hit, and the concept has been adopted by many watch companies in the decades since, even as its practical use has fallen out of favor with the advancement of computers and technology.

What Is The Purpose of Slide Rule Watches? 

While the modern buyer or watch enthusiast may no longer rely on slide rule bezels to fly planes or perform complicated arithmetic, this doesn’t detract from the bezel’s functionality. The tool is still there; the user just has to learn to use it!

So even if you purchase a watch with a slide rule bezel for the looks alone or appreciation for its use in history, here are a few ways you can get some use out of that Navitimer (or any of the other options we’re about to list below). 

First, some basics:

There are two scales and unit index markers; the inner scale, running along the outermost perimeter of the dial itself, and the outer scale, running along the periphery of the bezel itself. The index markers (specifically on a Navitimer; this may vary on other models) are indicated in red and serve as a reference point in the alignment of the rule. 

The bezel can be moved in either a clockwise or a counterclockwise direction. Finally, the slide rule doesn’t consider decimals; finding the number closest to the one you want, regardless of the decimal point sits, will be the way to go. 

Example: “50” on the slide would equate to 5 as input; Or, if the answer reads as 32.5, and we know intuitively the number should be in the hundreds, we’d read it as 325 instead. 

Multiplication

Let’s say we want to multiply 9 times 12. To do so, align the unit index 10 on the outer scale to the 9 on the inner scale. The scale is now aligned to all multiplications of 9. From here, find 12 (the number we’re multiplying against 9) on the outer scale, and the answer displays as 10.8, which, intuitively, we know to read as 108. Note: Multiply your restaurant bill by 20, and you’ll get an approximate tip figure to impress your friends with

Division

Let’s try division! For 20 divided by 16, move 16 on the outer scale to 20 on the inner scale. Our answer is read from the outer unit index 10: “12.5”, which, intuitively, we know would convert to 1.25.

Speed

Knowing that speed equals distance divided by time, we can calculate the average travel speed by looking at the inner scale value corresponding to 10 on our outer scale.

If we know it took us three minutes to pass one landmark from the start of our journey, we’d see that the inner scale reads about 33.5, or 3.35 miles per minute. On to the watches!

The Best Slide Rule Watches

1. Casio Edifice (ref. EF-527D-1AVEF)

Measuring 45mm in diameter, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 11mm thick, the EF-527D is an affordable and reliable step into the slide rule watch pool for anyone wanting to test the sizing or look of such watches.

Capturing the toolish busy look and functionality of watches at multiples in price, this model Edifice benefits in its quartz movement with a svelte case, screw-down crown, and 100 meters of water resistance despite also being a chronograph. 

This combination of chronograph functions in mechanical watches typically results in a lower water resistance rating (30-50 meters in most cases), making the EF-527D an attractive alternative in both the practical sense and for the wallet.

Retail Price: $190

2. Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Eco-Drive (ref. BJ7006-56L)

Anecdotally, for every Breitling Navitimer I’ve seen on a pilot’s wrist when flying, I’ve seen at least 3x the amount of Citizen Promaster Nighthawks on their wrist instead (filtering out all Apple Watches, naturally). Point being, if it’s good enough for a large number of real actual pilots, it should be good for us normie passengers as well. With a pleasant 42.4mm case diameter, 12.7mm thickness, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, it’s also quite wearable for a pilot’s watch, which is typically large in size for practical visibility in the cockpit. 

Add in 200m of water resistance and the hassle-proof light-powered Eco-Drive movement, and it’s no wonder that so many choose the Nighthawk when looking for a practical and reliable watch. The BJ7006-56L, in particular, is styled in an attractive blue and yellow in honor of the US Navy’s elite flight demonstration squadron, The Blue Angels.

Retail Price: $475

3. Seiko Prospex SRPB57J1

The SRPB57J1 is Made in Japan as part of the Seiko “Sky” collection, within the Prospex (“Professional Specifications”) line of watches intended for use by professionals. Powered by the caliber 4R35 movement, the watch is an automatic mechanical movement with both hand winding and hacking seconds (i.e.: the seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out for a more precise time setting) and is rated to 100m of water resistance. 

Without chronograph functionality, as we typically see in slide rule bezel watches, the SRPB57J1 offers a clean dial aesthetic in a 44.7mm diameter case with 12mm thickness. If you’re looking for an affordable mechanical watch alternative to the Pilot’s watch style, this Seiko is a great option.

Retail Price: $497

4. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind (ref. H77912135)

Hamilton has a long history of aviation watches (even providing the US Airmail service with watches as of 1918) and has developed the Khaki Aviation line in conjunction with air squadrons and renowned pilots to create function-forward timepieces that can be used effectively on the job. 

In the X-Wind (ref. H77912135) in particular, we have a combination of crosswind calculator, chronograph, and GMT functionality, all packed within a 46mm diameter case with 14mm thickness and a caliber G10.962 ETA Quartz movement accurate to +/- 10 seconds, water resistant to 100m to boot. It’s harder to imagine a more useful set of complications for a Pilot’s watch; just don’t ask us how to calculate crosswinds (we’ll defer to the watch manual book for that).

Retail Price: $1,045

5. Seiko Flightmaster SNA411

In the pantheon of household name Seiko watches, the SNA411 Flightmaster (colloquially known as the “Flighty” in some circles) is the watch of choice in the pilot watch category. Its overall popularity is attributed to a few things: its wearability, looks, and function. 

With a 42mm diameter case, 13mm case thickness, and short lug-to-lug of 44mm, the Flightmaster can be worn on a large range of wrist sizes, with its good looks and comfort accentuated by the infinite combination of straps and watch bands (21mm lug width) it can be placed on.

The reliable Seiko caliber 7T62 quartz movement, screw-down crown, 200 meters of water resistance, and alarm flyback chronograph capability are all the icing on the cake for this classic fan favorite.    

Retail Price: $475

6. Hamilton Khaki X-Patrol (ref. H76566751)

Returning to the Hamilton Khaki Aviation line of watches, we have the 42mm diameter (16mm thickness and 52mm lug-to-lug), automatic mechanical caliber H-21 movement X-Patrol, reference H76566751, with 60 hours of power reserve. 

A looker of a watch accentuated with a see-through case back to view the movement, the X-Patrol is rated to 100m of water resistance, no small feat for a mechanical chronograph which also features an inner rotating bezel in place of the typical slide rule bezels exposed on the outside of the case. With a day and date function windowed on the right-hand side of the dial, the additional sub dials are positioned at 12, 6, and 9 in an attractive configuration. 

Retail Price: $1,695

7. Ollech & Wajs Zürich OW P-104

Founded in the city of Zurich in 1956 by business partners Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs, Ollech & Wajs was formed to create robust, legible, and reliable tool watches powered by proven movements of the day; a brand ethos that still continues through today.

The P-104 in question is not a re-issue of a historic watch but rather a re-imagination of the watches created throughout the brand’s history. Measuring in a widely accessible 39mm diameter case, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 12.5mm in thickness, the P-104 has a fully brushed case which speaks to the robustness intended in use.

Of note, this is not a chronograph watch, but one built with both the military and commercial pilots in mind featuring a slide rule bezel akin to a diver’s bezel in form. With the proven workhorse ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical movement inside and a 300m water resistance, Ollech & Wajs have created a particularly unique watch stylistically and function-wise for discerning collectors.

Retail Price: $1,250

8. Victorinox Airboss Mach 9 (ref. 241710)

Outside of the Swiss Army Knife collector community, luggage, and cutlery worlds, Victorinox also makes some of the most rugged and capable wristwatches available on the market. Enter the Airboss Mach 9, reference 241710; 45mm in diameter, 15mm thick, with uncharacteristic left-sided “destro” crown and chronograph pushers, and slide rule accessible via a crown at the 2 o’clock position. 

The Airboss Mach 9 is a sizable and unique watch for those looking to make a statement, with 100m water resistance, chronograph, and automatic mechanical Valjoux caliber 7750 movement to boot. Even cooler, Air Force One squadron models have been known to surface on the aftermarket as well.

Retail Price: $2,450

9. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76726530)

Launched in 2020, the Khaki Aviation Converter Collection from Hamilton aims to capture the essence of traditional “E6B” flight computer-style watches, similar to the Navitimers of the world, which are the usual suspects in the genre.

It must be noted that the reference H76726530 is not a re-edition, though slide rule bezels have existed on previous Hamilton models in the past (look no further than this list). Rather its classic styling speaks to the success Hamilton achieved in capturing that vibe in modern materials and execution. 

Measuring 44mm in diameter and about 15mm in thickness, the Auto Chrono wears with a presence on the wrist with polished chronograph pushers and lug bevels, adding an additional layer of quality. With a 100m water resistance rating and the anti-magnetic silicon hairspring of the caliber H-21-Si movement, Hamilton has created a new riff on a classic design with all the advancements of modern watchmaking tech.

Retail Price: $1,995

10. Zeno-Watch OS Slide Rule Chronograph (ref. 8557CALTH-a1)

With a 47.5mm case diameter, Zeno-Watch classifies the Slide Rule Chronograph reference 8557CALTH-a1 within its Oversized “OS” collection, and rightfully so. Powered by an automatic chronograph Valjoux 7750 (with approximately 42 hours of power reserve) and rated to 30m of water resistance, the watch is certainly a bold look. 

Coupled with a crown at the 10 o’clock position to actuate the inner rotating slide rule, despite its size Zeno-Watch provides a clean and attractive aesthetic, balancing bold lumed Arabic along the dial with attractive cathedral-style hands. 

Retail Price: CHF 2,538

11. Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator (ref. 01 675 7648 4264-Set 5 23 77)

Originally developed as an homage to the first manned supersonic flight of October 14th, 1947, the Oris Big Crown Calculator is a uniquely gray-plated (PVD) stainless steel automatic chronograph from the brand. 

Clocking in at 46mm in diameter and 16mm in thickness with a 23mm lug width, the watch will certainly have a presence on the wrist. Still, with its grey PVD coloring and bold Arabic at 12, 3, 6, and 9 with the utmost in legible hands, you can’t knock the legibility and function of this uniquely styled slide rule watch. Particularly attractive is the coin edge bezel, a call back to vintage styling despite its outwardly modern case finish.

Retail Price: $3,950

12. Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 (ref. A17326241B1P1)

Redesigning and creating line extensions of classic, well-known watches can often be a delicate subject. Get it wrong, and the legions of fans will let it be known. Do it right, and you might just capture something new, worthy of its own praise. 

When Breitling sought to refine the Navitimer in the Automatic 41, it can’t be denied that the clean dial aesthetic lacking chronograph subdials and functionality captures the essence of the Navitimer at its core, providing a clean and direct focus on the bi-directional slide rule bezel overall.

With a 10.10mm thickness and 47.9mm lug-to-lug, the classed-up Automatic 41 will wear closer to a dress watch than the tool watch feel of the Navitimer Chronograph it pulls inspiration from. Available on a number of leather straps, the Automatic 41 is truly elegant.

Retail Price: $4,750

13. Sinn 903 ST Navigation Chronograph

Like many brands of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, Breitling was hit particularly hard by the quartz crisis, eventually closing its doors in 1979. In the wake of staff layoffs and liquidation, the rights to the Navitimer were sold to Sinn and Sicura, with Sinn, in particular, purchasing the rights to the Breitling 806 and 809 Navitimer models of the day.

Sicura continued to manufacture watches under the Breitling name (as well as owning the “Navitimer” name outright), while Sinn continued to develop the Navitimer technology into present day. The 903 ST Navigation Chronograph is an attractive culmination of those decades since, featuring a La Joux-Perret 8000 column wheel chronograph movement in a wearable 41mm diameter case (14.5mm thick, 48.5mm lug-to-lug) with 100m water resistance.

For anyone looking for an alternative to the Breitling Navitimer, the Sinn 903 ST is a surefire choice, both with its historic ties to the Navitimer itself and the classic telltale design at nearly half the price. 

Retail Price: $3,580

14. Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0137211B1P1)

The icon itself. When we talk about slide rule complicated watches, the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph is most certainly the standard to which all others are judged. From its initial inception in 1952, partnering with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) in developing a tool allowing pilots to perform all necessary flight calculations, to the latest iteration over 70 years later, the Navitimer defines the pilot chronograph genre. 

Of design note, the updated dial revives the AOPA wing logo to its original position at 12 o’clock, with new color variants in green, copper, and blue now available. The caliber Breitling 01 movement (70-hour power reserve) is housed in the familiar 46mm diameter case with 13.95mm thickness and is rated to 30m of water resistance. In a world of options, if you’re looking for the original archetype, there is no other choice.

Retail Price: $9,200

15. Richard Mille RM 039

It’s always fun to have a halo piece, and with the million-dollar RM 039, that’s a really high halo. But if your pockets are particularly well lined, and you have all the right connections to get it (limited to 30 pieces), the RM 039 offers one of the most difficult and complex Richard Mille watches to buy, with nearly 1,000 individual parts comprising its 50mm diameter case (at 19.4mm thick). 

With an oversized date display, adjustable UTC function for displaying a second time zone, gearbox-like function selector (winding, neutral, hand0setting, UTC setting functions), power reserve indicator, bidirectional slide rule bezel, and oh, by the way, did we mention that it’s a tourbillon; we have one heck of a watch constructed and finished to a degree simply impossible at a lower price point. How much is it again?

Retail Price: €1,042,500 (As they say, “If you have to ask…”)

Conclusion

The slide rule complication can seem like an anachronism, an analog function from another age when computers and digital technology weren’t even yet a dream. And yet, wristwatches with slide rule complications continue to be made in the modern era. 

Whether as a nod to history or an aesthetic appeal to aviation-age romance, the 21st-century watch collector can still find modern applications to this anachronistic tool. Just be sure to charge your phone the next time you forget your watch!

The term ‘marine chronometer’ may, at face value, seem a tad too complex for the average watch enthusiast. What if you don’t have a yacht? More aptly, can someone who doesn’t even own a swimming pool justify the purchase of such a quintessentially-aquatic timepiece?

In short, yes, although modern marine chronometers carry the name of their predecessors, they are (thankfully) no longer used to navigate open oceans. Rather, the aesthetic of marine chronometers today has found great popularity in the watch industry due to its carefully-honed balance between subtlety and complexity.

It is this design ethos that defines the contemporary marine chronometer style – white dials with black printing, Roman numeral indices, sub-seconds dials, blue steel hands, and an onion-shaped crown. Of course, these are just the most common features of a class of watches that is both vast and varied.

The Storied History of The Original Tool Watch

Many, many moons ago, the ‘Longitude Problem’ was a significant issue for early sailors who struggled to precisely determine their position at sea. So, in 1714, the British government offered a large prize to anyone who could solve the problem.

John Harrison, a self-trained carpenter, and clockmaker entered the competition with a handcrafted marine chronometer, which he claimed could keep accurate time over long oceanic voyages. Although it wasn’t exactly right at first, Harrison eventually perfected the technology (it only took him 40 years), winning the prize and paving the way for the evolution of the marine chronometer.

Safe to say, this particular type of timekeeper is one of the most historically significant watches you can own – one that literally enabled people to successfully explore the earth.

Designed To Navigate, Built To Last

Although there are many definitive examples of the marine chronometer, the most reputable are undoubtedly the Patek Philippe 5119 Calatrava and A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Pour le Mérite.

With this being said, there are many more affordable options for entry into the marine chronometer club, with brands such as Steinhart, Longines, and Raymond Weil offering excellent watches at accessible price points. Let’s jump into the list and have a look at some of the best pieces available.

1. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5119G-001)

The Patek Philippe 5119 is a watch that exudes classic perfection, rising to the high expectations that are rightly placed on the Geneva watch giant. This modern (now discontinued) reference sits at a very wearable 36mm, replacing the 3919 model, originally released at 33mm in 1985.

With its Clou de Paris bezel, created using a diamond guilloché technique (basically, diagonal lines finished to a near-impossible brilliance), this sits in both the dress watch and marine chronometer camps. The austere dial with narrow black Roman numerals on white lacquer is representative of functional marine chronometers – clear and, therefore, easy to read at any angle.

The timepiece is powered by the 215 PS hand-wound movement with time-only complications, visible through the sapphire caseback, and has a ridiculously slim profile of just 2.55mm with 130 parts. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 44-hour power reserve. Patek’s 5119G is available in yellow, rose, or white gold with an alligator strap and pin buckle, although I personally love the classic feel of the white gold. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth every penny.

2.  A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Pour le Mérite (ref. 260.028)

The Richard Lange Pour le Mérite is a seriously limited edition timepiece, with each of the 218 units in existence built around a legendary movement (more on that shortly). The black face of this attractively pared-back watch is actually a solid silver dial in disguise, enwrapped by a 40.5mm white gold case with a sapphire caseback.

Narrow Roman numerals, continuous seconds at 6 o’clock, and a simple design with just four small red touches at the standard quartered positions decorate the dial. It’s a silently serious reference. Well-known for its wonderfully unique and historic mechanism, the fusée-and-chain transmission, Richard Lange’s mechanism essentially provides constant torque to improve the watch’s accuracy as the mainspring gradually runs down.

The chain is wrapped around the mainspring barrel and fusée, which provides infinitely variable gear ratios. A beautiful hand-wound movement is decorated with intricate engravings, including on the balance bridge, escape wheel, and fourth wheel cock. 

The detail in this piece is truly mind-boggling, and if you’ve got a spare $85,000 lying around, you’ll have plenty of time to wrap your head around it all.

3. Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (ref. 1-58-01-02-05-30)

Since 2009, Glashütte Original has paid homage to the town’s rich history of producing marine chronometers with their enthralling Senator Chronometer line. This version is a classic watch with a stark, contemporary twist, not dissimilar to many of the brand’s pieces.

For the technical geeks out there, rest assured – this timepiece is an officially certified chronometer with a power reserve indicator, a large panorama date, and a day/night display. It’s powered by a manually wound, in-house Calibre 58-01 movement with the stop-second feature, which automatically jumps the seconds hand to zero and moves the minute hand ahead to the next complete minute when the crown is pulled out. 

It’s a small technical detail but a very convenient one. The case is made of red gold and is 42mm in diameter and 12.3mm thick, with a brown Louisiana alligator leather strap and a folding clasp also in red gold. Honestly, the strap alone is a thing of rare beauty.

Despite its impressive build and high-end finish, the Senator Chronometer is a simple and precise watch, aligning aptly with the quest for legible accuracy that was once the primary objective for marine watchmakers. 

The movement has the superb Glashütte Original finish, with the three-quarter plate, screw-mounted glass chatons, and a hand-engraved balance cock. For such a profound example of German engineering, expect to pay roughly $30,000.

4. Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur (ref. 1183-310/40)

Ulysse Nardin has a respected record of creating marine chronometers (somehow, even their name sounds oceanic), and their Marine Torpilleur watch doesn’t deviate from that heritage. The brand’s founder specialized in marine chronometers, and in the late 19th and early 20th century, Ulysse Nardin even supplied many naval forces around the world with them.

However, it wasn’t until 1996, the brand’s 150th anniversary, that it debuted a limited edition Marine Chronometer wristwatch that was so successful it evolved into its own collection. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is a holistically easy-to-wear watch – the case, made of stainless steel, measures 42mm in diameter and features a fluted bezel, screw-down crown, and 50-meter water resistance.

The Marine Torpilleur is in some way based on a vintage Ulysse Nardin pocket watch with a similar dial design. Although it may appear a tad busy at first, upon closer inspection, one can’t help but appreciate just how well laid out and proportioned the elements of the dial are.

Complimented by a no-nonsense black leather strap, this piece is understated where it matters and detailed where it counts. The watch’s calibre UN-118 movement is self-winding, COSC chronometer-certified, and has a power reserve of about 60 hours.

The movement is made with Ulysse Nardin’s proprietary innovations, such as the use of synthetic diamonds to greatly reduce friction, thus increasing durability and extending power reserve. A sapphire crystal window makes up most of the caseback, which reveals the movement’s circular Cotes de Genève and an elaborate oscillating weight with two anchors that further the nautical theme.

5. Bell & Ross BR 01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross released the Instrument de Marine collection in 2016, featuring three models inspired by 18th and 19th-century marine chronometers. The collection combines modern and traditional design elements. As we’ve come to expect from Bell & Ross’s square cases, this style leans more towards a modernist interpretation, which is nonetheless made of materials that pay tribute to the marine chronometer’s history – a bronze and rosewood case, with a more contemporary titanium caseback.

A 45mm case makes this a large-wearing time-keeper (slim-wristers, beware) with a white lacquer dial, black Roman numerals, and no date display. The slightly-odd brown alligator strap, which I personally would switch to a bracelet ASAP, and the bronze pin buckle complete the somewhat reductive look while adding a traditional touch to an otherwise very utilitarian watch.

Powered by the hand-wound BR-CAL.203 movement, a very reliable version of the ETA Unitas 6498 with 17 jewels, a power reserve of 56 hours, and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, this watch is limited to 500 pieces, so you may struggle to get your hands on one!

6. Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde

Aside from being a mouthful to pronounce, the Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde is perhaps the most ‘authentic-looking’ marine chronometer on this list. It features a fluted bezel, an enamel dial, and a small seconds sub-dial that gives it a sophisticated look reminiscent of some Breguet watches.

However, take a glance at the caseback, and you’ll see a much more robust, unapologetic layout – a wide, flat ring of steel encircles a small sapphire window to evoke a certain porthole aesthetic that just screams ‘maritime’. The matching blued steel hands and blue crocodile leather strap add a touch of luxury to the overall aesthetic, but I think this one really comes alive on the bracelet, which is an intricate 5-link design that drapes over the wrist comfortably.

Made of stainless steel, the case measures 42mm in diameter and 12.2mm in thickness and features Mühle-Glashütte’s signature vertically-brushed finish and volute-shaped lugs with polished top surfaces. It’s water-resistant to 100 meters, more than enough to protect the MU 9415 hand-wound movement, which has Glashütte’s characteristic three-quarter plate, woodpecker-neck regulation, and stop-second function for precision time-setting.

The movement also provides a 44-hour power reserve and fast date adjustment. The Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde costs $2,500 on the strap, but I’d definitely throw down a bit extra for the bracelet.

7. Wempe Chronometerwerke Power Reserve (ref. WG080007)

Wempe’s Chronometerwerke features a hand-wound movement, the CW3, which was designed and built by Wempe and had an edgy-looking power reserve indicator at the top of the dial, a logical and practical addition to any manually-wound watch.

It’s a bit of a large boy, with a steel case measuring 43mm across and 12.5mm thick, and as with all of the aforementioned timepieces, the movement is visible through a see-through caseback. The CW3 is decorated with traditional German watchmaking features, such as the large three-quarter plate with Glashütte wave decoration and a swan’s-neck adjustment for rate symmetry. 

The balance is unusually positioned at 12 o’clock, and performance is improved by laser-skeletonizing the escape wheel, pallets, and balance. In simpler terms, a lighter watch is a better watch. The company went as far as to establish its own testing institute in the Glashütte Observatory, where its watches are tested to the German standard DIN 8319, with precision requirements similar to COSC. It costs roughly $5200, a fitting price for a piece that excels at being both intriguingly different and reliably familiar.

8. Tourby Marine Roman 43

The most striking thing about the Tourby Marine Roman 43 is its case, which combines brushed and polished stainless steel finishes that please the eye in much the same way as Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu technique has done for years.

The dial is also impressive, featuring metallic blue hands and precise printed indicators set against a white dial. The same size as the Wempe, the case measures 43mm in diameter, is approximately 12mm thick, and sits on a black alligator strap with a pin buckle. 

The exhibition caseback showcases the beautiful hand-wound Unitas 6498.1 movement, which boasts a power reserve of 44-48 hours and runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hertz). The watch’s movement wheels can also be finished with a sunburst effect, and an optional folding clasp is available for the strap.

It is this customizability that makes the Tourby a very attractive purchase for those who value individuality above all else, especially as it’s priced at a very reasonable $1,550 and comes with a leather travel case. Overall, the Tourby Marine Roman might be the best value-for-money ticker on this list.

9. Raymond Weil Maestro Automatic Small Second (ref. 2238-STC-00659)

The Maestro, otherwise known as reference 2238-STC-00659, boasts a 40mm steel case with an alluringly slim profile, measuring only 10mm in thickness. It features the classic design elements of a marine chronometer-style watch but perhaps not where you might expect to find them – embellished hands are replaced by simple batons, while sans-serif Roman numerals ring around a multi-textural dial, the center of which showcases a wonderful circular guilloché detail. 

The result is a watch face that’s well-designed, compact, and balanced. The date window is subtle, and the small seconds sub-dial is strategically placed to ensure it doesn’t obstruct the numerals at the lower part of the dial.

The self-winding movement delivers 38 hours of power reserve, most likely an ETA 2895-2, visible through the sapphire caseback. A calf leather strap imprinted with an alligator motif is secured with a stainless steel folding clasp. This timepiece is priced at approximately $1300, making it an attractive entry point for the style.

10. Steinhart Marine Chronometer 44 (ref. M0509)

Steinhart is a watch brand known for its honorific nods to all aspects of watchmaking’s past, including its Marine collection, which celebrates John Harrison’s work on the first marine chronometer. The MC 44 has a classic design with a white lacquer dial and black numerals, blue poire hands, and a sub-dial for seconds at 6 o’clock.

Its polished bezel stands out against the brushed steel case, a nice touch in this price bracket, and the crown is truncated-conical, making it easy to grip when setting the time, although it does stick out a bit more than I’d like. 

This particular model features a 44mm case and a Unitas 6498-1 calibre movement made by ETA, known for its accuracy and legibility. The hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour, which is about as precise as you can hope to get for the money.

A perfect choice for enthusiasts who appreciate the art of traditional watchmaking but don’t want to break the bank, it’s a classic design brought to life by a precision movement and bolstered by impressive attention to detail. Hard to beat in terms of value, this Steinhart is definitely worth a double take.

11. Stowa Marine Original Roman White

Despite its rather dull name, the Marine Original Roman is a great choice for anyone looking for a left-of-center watch that doesn’t sacrifice reliability or accuracy. With a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 12mm, it’s in the ‘safe zone’ for most wrists.

The high-polished white dial with slim, black numerals and blued steel hands speak to something slightly modern in terms of style. Perhaps it’s the way the seconds sub-dial cuts into the V and VII indices to create a floating effect of sorts. These little touches can really elevate the otherwise mundane into something far more exciting.

The movement is a hand-wound Unitas 6498-1, a beloved unit modified and finished by Stowa with a swan-neck regulator. It runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 46-50 hours. This isn’t Stowa’s first rodeo – their earliest watches of this type date back to 1939, so you can rest assured that you’re buying something that the firm has perfected over decades.

12. L. Leroy Automatic Deck Chronometer (ref. LL200/1)

This one is a dark horse. A black duck. You may have no expectations when it comes to L. Leroy’s LL200/1, perhaps because you’ve never heard of it or because it lacks the gravitas of some of the other ‘louder’ brands on this list.

I don’t blame you, but I do feel sorry for you because this is a watch worth knowing, particularly if you value high-quality pieces that fly (or sail) under the radar. It’s a distinctly masculine representation of the marine chronometer – a 43mm white gold case houses the officially-certified L511 automatic movement. 

A silver dial hosts Roman numeral hour markers and a minute track, which runs around a minimal guilloché center. The lines are hard, and the curves are definitive. There’s nothing soft about this watch except the way the lugs meet the leather strap.

Somehow though, it’s a very unassuming piece, leaving most of the really impressive features to the L511 – a 36-jewel automatic movement that oscillates at 28800 semi-oscillations per hour, decorated by an exclusive “grainé-champlevé” décor on the bridges, hand-chamfered, with raised mirror-polished markings and a 22-carat gold oscillating weight. The watch is truly something special, and if you’re a discerning individual who can foot the bill, I would recommend it every time.

13. Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale (ref. 5547BR/12/9ZU)

The Marine Alarme Musicale wristwatch is a standout on this list for one obvious reason – it makes a little noise at the time that you want it to, thanks to its rather handy alarm feature. The self-winding watch includes an indicator for the alarm time, the alarm’s power reserve, and whether the alarm is on or off.

Additionally, it features a second time-zone display (very practical for travelers). Aesthetically, it’s certainly the most boisterous entry here, with an 18k rose gold case, matching gold hands that float over an intricate silver dial, and rather prominent Roman numerals with a lume-fill at every hour except six (thanks to the date window). 

The watch comes with a sapphire caseback, a screw-locked crown, another standard crown, and a pusher. It has a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 13mm (that alarm complication has to go somewhere) and can be purchased with a leather or rubber strap, with the option of a gold bracelet. Strangely enough, I feel like the rubber strap works best on this one, as it provides a sense of austerity, contrasting the otherwise busy-luxe composition of the Marine Alarme Musicale.

Finally, the watch is driven by Breguet’s calibre 519F/1, which features an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, a flat balance spring in silicon, contains 36 jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 45 hours. You can have all this and not a thing more for a mere $ 42,000. A word of advice – try before you buy.

14. Junghans Tempus Power Reserve (ref. 028/4725.01)

The Junghans Tempus Power Reserve watch pays tribute to the company’s founder, Erhard Junghans, who pioneered and innovated German watchmaking. The watch employs a timeless design with – you guessed it – a small seconds sub-dial and stunningly reductive power reserve indicator.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 41.8mm in diameter and 10.8mm in thickness, with water resistance up to 3 bar. My only gripe with this lovely piece is that it would be so much more in vogue if it were, say, 39mm, whereby it could play the dual role of marine chronometer and dress watch effortlessly. 

Nonetheless, there’s plenty to love here, still. The self-winding J830.5 movement powers the watch, running at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), and has a power reserve of 48 hours. Arguably my favorite dial of the lot, there’s a wonderful contrast between new and old here – elongated Roman numerals push the face outward while bespoke modern lettering centers it all, despite being, well, off-center. Reference 028/4725.00 costs $3,500, and given that it somehow stands alone in a very competitive field, I’d say that’s a price worth paying.

15. Longines Master Collection Power Reserve (ref. L2.708.4.51.6)

Full disclosure – I’m not a Longines guy. They haven’t reinvented the wheel with this watch. There’s nothing spectacular or outwardly engrossing about the way it looks or even about its movement. However, this is a watch that has a very useful superpower – it goes with anything and will never, ever look out of place.

There’s real value in that kind of stylistic security. The Longines Master Collection is a prime example of the company’s skill in making reliable watches that don’t rock the boat (pun intended). A 38.5mm stainless steel case houses on its face a black dial with white Roman numerals, a central seconds hand, and a power reserve indicator where the usual sub-dial would be, and that’s it.

Beneath the unassuming dial lies the L602 automatic movement made by ETA (calibre 2897), which has a power reserve of 42 hours and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The transparent caseback reveals the movement, and the watch has a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp that can be conveniently operated by pushers. 

For $2,350, there’s enough watch here to keep an experienced enthusiast happy for a long time and a beginner collector mightily intrigued until their next purchase. 

For The Explorer In All Of Us

With that, I’m hopeful that I’ve demystified the marine chronometer for some readers while perhaps encouraging others to add another (much-needed) MC to their collections. Strangely enough, there’s a tendency for people to become obsessed with watches that fill such a specific stylistic and cultural bracket, and these timepieces certainly are no exception. 

Even though the majority of marine chronometers are being worn at dinner events and in cars, as opposed to on the open ocean, I’m sure (as are you) that the historical reputation of this particular type of timepiece isn’t lost on the wearer, no matter the circumstance. So I suggest you try one on, not only to see how it fits but to see how it feels. 

Every watch has a movement inside of it that breathes life into it. Some watches are operated with a battery, allowing for simple maintenance and high accuracy. Other watches are purely mechanical, with many moving parts working together to generate power.

Swiss manufacturing has a long history of making mechanical movements, and there was a time when nearly every single watch was mechanical. Now, consumers have the luxury of choosing from a variety of movements, usually boiling down to quartz or mechanical. 

Creating a movement entirely from scratch can be a huge challenge for some brands. This also comes with an increase in associated costs. Luckily, ETA SA has been a driving force in the Swiss watchmaking industry for a long time, providing high-quality and reliable movements that have powered countless watches since the brand’s debut in 1856.

One of the many great ETA movements is the 2892, a truly wonderful movement that balances luxury with cost. Today, we’re here to show you a sample of the many watches that house an ETA 2892 inside.

About the ETA 2892

Many watch companies use movements created by ETA in their watches. By doing so, they are also allowed to print the coveted “Swiss Made” label. The ETA 2892 is an automatic movement created in the workshops of  ETA SA.

ETA has gone to great lengths to ensure that all of its movements are worthy of the “Swiss Made” label. Because of its huge sway in the watch industry, ETA needs to make a quality product that supports its position in the market. Luckily, the 2892 is a truly fantastic work of mechanical art that lives up to its reputation. 

First, let’s go over all of the technical features of the movement. The ETA 2892 is a 21-jewel automatic movement that is relatively thin at 25.60mm and has a height of 3.6mm. Each movement is strong enough to generate an ample 42-hour power reserve.

The movement beats at 28,000 vibrations per hour and features hacking seconds and hand-winding. The accuracy ranges anywhere from +/-20 seconds per day to +/-5 seconds/day. This range depends on the grade or quality of the movement. The three grades are: elaborated grade, top grade, and chronometer (COSC) grade. Next, let’s talk history!

History of the ETA 2892

Some people might have heard about the Swiss brand Eterna. Eterna is a storied brand with rich history, and its most significant achievement is probably the creation of ETA SA. Eterna was founded in November 1856 by Dr. Joseph Girard and Urs Schild. 

They were one of the original movement manufacturers and continued to do so all the way until the company legally separated into Eterna and ETA SA. Eterna mainly focused on making watches, while ETA SA focused on movements.

The mighty Swatch Group now controls ETA SA, so it’s no wonder that ETA movements can be found in many of their brands. ETA movements are a gold standard in the watch world and are a “go-to” movement, especially when costs are concerned.

The Best ETA 2892 Watches

ETA movements are amazing right off the shelf. Of course, brands can take their time to beautify and personalize the movement, but the core features remain the same. We mentioned different grades before. Don’t worry; there’s no test for you today! 

Instead, these grades simply determine how rigorously the movement was tested before being used in the watch. Below are 15 examples of quality timepieces that will delight any future buyer. We’ll provide the description; all you need to do is imagine the amazing features of the watch!

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 212.30.41.20.01.002, Caliber 2500, based on the 2892-A2)

 

First on the list is an offering from the much-loved brand Omega. The Omega Seamaster Diver just oozes cool, and variations of this watch have been made famous by the James Bond movies. For example, the helium escape valve on the top left corner is actually used by Bond in the movies to operate some of his numerous gadgets. This model features a very cool ink-black dial with a wave pattern that decorates newer models in the Seamaster line. 

All of the watches on the list modify the ETA 2892 in some way. Whether that’s giving it a custom rotor or tweaking some of the specifications, each brand ultimately uses the ETA 2892 as a blueprint for its own designs. In this dive watch, Omega added their unique co-axial escapement, which increases accuracy over time. This is just one modification possible to the ETA 2892.  

2. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage ‘57 (ref. A10370121B1A1, Breitling Caliber B10, based on the 2892-A2)

Breitling is next on the list, a favorite of aviators and divers alike. The famous Breitling Navitimer rules the skies, while the Superocean rules the seas below. The SuperOcean Heritage is a reference to the golden age of diving when many brands were competing to create the best dive watch.

While many of these dive watches were bulky and large, this SuperOcean Heritage model is somewhat modest. The watch is 38mm in diameter with an extra large bezel that curves inward, giving it a unique appearance. 

The ETA 2892 helps to make this watch relatively thin, especially surprising given Breitling’s usually bold and thick watches. The bracelet and case almost seamlessly turn into each other, making this watch slender and very comfortable to wear. Of course, one of the most interesting things about the watch is the bezel that curves inward, which gives the watch a fascinating 3D effect.

3. IWC Spitfire (ref. IW3268-01, Caliber 32110, based on the 2892-A2)

IWC takes to the skies with the Spitfire model, featuring the Caliber 32110. In this movement, IWC uses silicon to bolster the movement’s strength. Silicon is used in watches because of its strength and flexibility. The escape wheel and pallet lever are made of this material, a very nice change because it improves the longevity of the pieces and allows the watch to go long periods without needing service. 

The Spitfire is a classic aviation-inspired watch. Aviation watches emphasize legibility above all else. And with a large, bold number printing, clearly delineated minute tracker, and large sword hands, you’ll have no trouble reading the time, even in the most intense situations. 

4. Hublot Classic Fusion 45 Chronograph Black Magic (ref. 521.CM.1771.RX, Hublot caliber HUB1143, based on the 2892-A2)

Wearing a Hublot means you’re not afraid of what anyone thinks. Hublot has built a reputation for its unapologetically bold timepieces. They immediately grab your attention and aren’t shy about it. This 45mm chronograph is no exception, and the outlandish name matches its aesthetic.

The ceramic case is extremely well-made and scratch-resistant. The futuristic black color coats every part of the watch. The bracelet is equally amazing, all ceramic and brushed and polished to a bright shine. The caseback is transparent, which shows off the HUB1143 behind the window.

Hublot modifies the baseline ETA 2892 with an integrated Dubois-Depraz module that powers the chronograph function. This module is an excellent feature and modification to the always-reliable ETA 2892. The module is added to the base movement to handle whatever additional feature the brand wants to add. 

5. TAG Heuer Autavia GMT (ref. WBE511A.BA0650, Calibre 7, based on the 2892-A2)

The Autavia line from Tag Heuer features many vintage-inspired models that take design cues from successful past models from Tag’s history. This model is a very handsome pilot’s watch that is effortlessly cool. It does all this while having a GMT feature, one of the most practical complications a watch can have.

As a pilot watch, the dial is extremely clean and legible. The printing is bold, large, and generously filled with lume for low-light conditions. 

This is a COSC-certified chronometer and pushes the ETA 2892 to its limit. COSC certification means that the watch has been tested in extreme conditions to ensure that it remains accurate. Any movement that doesn’t survive the process isn’t used for future watches. This is a mark of quality; anyone would be delighted to see this vintage-inspired beauty on their wrist. 

6. Longines Hydroconquest (ref. L3.695.4.53.6, Caliber L619.2, based on the 2892-A2)

With an intimidating name like Hydroconquest, I expect a watch that can conquer the seas and survive anything Mother Nature can throw at it. Longines certainly tries to live up to that expectation with this next offering on our list, a large 44mm stainless steel watch. 

This is a titan of diving, with 300m of water resistance and an expertly engineered case that shields the ETA-based Caliber L619.2. One of my favorite details on the watch is the heavily engraved caseback featuring the winged Longines logo. 

7. Panerai Luminor 1950 (ref. PAM01109, Panerai caliber P.9200, based on the 2892-2)

It’s definitely easy to spot a Panerai on someone’s wrist. The unique case shape and large 47mm case are unmistakable. This model is a little different from other Panerai models because it includes a chronograph function that takes up a majority of the dial. However, the large 12 and 6 hour markers are still present, which is a signature of many Panerai models. 

Inside this Italian classic is Panerai’s version of the ETA 2892, the Caliber P.9200. Panerai adds extra features like an improved balance wheel and increased shock-resistance to really make this watch true to its rich history and association with tough, military watches. 

8. Tudor Heritage Chrono 70330N (ETA Caliber 2892-2054)

Tudor is simply an amazing brand that offers top-quality pieces at unmatched prices. I love the Tudor shield logo because I know I am getting something incredible with this sign of quality. This timepiece is a colorful chronograph with racing-inspired design cues.

The Tudor shield is at 12 o’clock and seamlessly flows with the other hour markers. The chronograph subdials are filled in with a slightly darker color than the dial, giving an interesting contrast between them. 

Tudor added a separate chronograph module to the base ETA 2892. The Dubois-Depraz 2054 is a marvelous addition that really unlocks the capabilities of the base movement. The watch is heavy and thick, so it may take some time to get used to the extra weight on the wrist, but in the price-value category, this modern interpretation of a vintage watch is hard to beat.

9. Oris Divers GMT (ref. 01 668 7639 8454-07 8 24 01PEB, Oris 668, based on the 2892-A2)

As one of the few remaining independent watch brands, Oris holds a unique position in the market. Many of the brands on this list, like Omega and Longines, fall under the umbrella of the Swatch Group. Oris, however, is owned entirely by themselves.

The Oris Divers line is a series of no-nonsense models inspired by watches from the 1960s. This model also includes the popular GMT feature and combines practicality with luxury. Regarding the movement, Oris has been making waves with its movement work.

They even have their own in-house movement that they developed for their premium models. For this Oris 668, extra fine-tuning has made this movement even more accurate and reliable. The true GMT feature works amazingly when combined with the reliability of the base movement. 

10. TAG Heuer Carrera Big Date (ref. WAR5010.BA0723, Calibre 8, based on the 2892-A2) 

Like its namesake, the Carrera Big Date is as exquisite as any luxury sports car. Despite its seemingly wearable size, with a case diameter of 41mm, the watch wears bigger due to its large thickness and lug-to-lug distance. The black dial is gorgeous and features the Big Date complication at 12 o’clock, along with a subdial at 6 o’clock that keeps track of the second time zone.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 8, which is a modified ETA 2892 with an additional GMT function. Combined with the Big Date complication, it makes for an excellent everyday timepiece, especially for those interested in tracking two different time zones.

11. Omega Speedmaster Reduced (ref. 3510.50.00, Omega Caliber 3220, based on the 2892-A2)

While the Speedmaster Reduced is certainly smaller than its regular-sized counterpart, this does not compromise the quality. The Speedmaster Reduced is a smaller 38mm version of the legendary Moonwatch.

The dial has several small but noticeable differences compared to its big brother, like the location of the subdials. The subdials are also stretched to the outer edge of the watch. One of the biggest differences, which truly makes it reduced, is the lug-to-lug width and bracelet.

The Reduced is 44mm lug to lug, down from the normal 47mm of the Moonwatch. This makes it much easier to style with numerous wrist sizes. The bracelet is also slightly thinner at 18mm and tapers to a fine steel finish. Inside the Reduced is the Caliber 3220, Omega’s version of the ETA 2892.

It is automatic compared to the traditionally hand-winding Moonwatch movement. The chronograph function between the Reduced and Moonwatch is mostly because the Reduced chronograph is a module stacked on top of the movement, which changes the dynamics of the watch.

12. Breitling for Bentley Motors Blue (ref. A2536212.C618, Breitling Caliber 25B, based on the 2892-A2)

Breitling and Bentley have collaborated for a long time together to create amazing moto-inspired watches. Every Breitling for Bentley collection watch has a distinctive look, especially with the braided bezel design. 

This watch is quintessential Breitling. It’s a big 48mm watch with the famous Breitling wings logo, a Breitling-tipped chronograph hand, and a ton of information on the dial. The pushers to the side almost seem dwarfed by the large, adventurous watch. The ETA 2892 base movement is wonderfully decorated with Breitling design language and features a 30-second seconds counter as well.

13. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW3282-02, Caliber 32111, based on the 2892-A2)

IWC takes to the skies again with this excellent timepiece. Perfectly sized at 40mm and with the pilot-styled DNA everyone loves, the Mark XX is a surefire hit to everyone who can look at one. Even the name invokes the image of Iron Man, who is known to soar through the skies. 

IWC is a master of aviation watches. Just look at the numerous models in their extensive lineup. The Caliber 32111 is hidden behind the caseback and finished with intricately detailed Côtes de Genève patterns.

14. Longines Legend Diver (ref. L3.774.4.90.2, Caliber L888.5, based on the 2892-A2)

The Legend Diver is a look back at the past and transports you to a time when diving was still a brand new world to explore. As a modern interpretation, the Legend Diver is packed with modern conveniences, like an updated 42mm case size, sapphire crystal, improved inner rotating bezel, rugged stainless steel construction, and of course, enhanced modern movement. 

Underneath this surprisingly thin case is the Caliber L888.5, featuring an extra durable silicone balance wheel. Anyone who gets their hand on this collector’s item is sure to be amazed by just how handsome the whole package looks.

15. Oris Artelier Small Second Date (ref. 01 623 7582 4074-07 5 21 71FC, Oris 623, based on the 2892-A2)

Last but not least is the elegant Oris Artelier Small Seconds Date. The word “Artelier” brings up nostalgic images of old-school watchmaking in small, private workshops. Indeed, this model is carefully finished and shined to perfection. The hour markers are sharp like daggers and are polished to a mirror finish. 

The hands, too, look sharp and crisp. The dial is layered with two circles on top of each other, with the small seconds sub dial prominently featured at the 6 o’clock position. I love how the shiny shades of black look stacked on top of each other.

The date window is like a hidden surprise at the bottom as well, like a little window that provides extremely useful information to viewers. Of course, Oris’s skill at making movements is on display here with the excellent Oris 623.

The flash of red on the movement, as seen through the transparent caseback, is a welcome surprise. The many features of this movement, like the extra precise time accuracy and stop-second, make this an excellent and elegant timepiece.

Conclusion

As you can now see, the ETA 2892 can take many forms. Brands take this wonderful movement and decorate it to their liking. Sometimes they can add extra features to it, like a chronograph movement. Other times, they can innovate the materials used inside of it or customize how the rotor looks. Regardless of the changes, the same amazing, high-quality Swiss mechanical movement beats at the heart of every one of these watches!