Category: Watch Reviews

Over the past few years, a new trend has emerged in the world of luxury watches – the rising popularity of salmon dial watches. Once considered a niche choice, salmon dials have now become a must-have feature for many luxury watch brands.

This trend is particularly visible in vintage-inspired models, where salmon dials are becoming increasingly common and are often considered a hallmark of high-end luxury timepieces. Salmon dials are characterized by their warm, pinkish-orange hue.

They are often created through a complex process of layering different colors and finishes on a silver base, giving them their unique, multi-dimensional appearance. In addition to their distinctive color, salmon dials are also prized for their ability to change appearance in different lighting conditions, from a soft, muted shade to a bright and vibrant hue.

Historical Review of the Salmon Dial

Salmon dial watches first appeared in the 1920s and 1930s, but it was not until the 1940s and 1950s that they gained widespread popularity. During this time, salmon dials were a standard feature on high-end dress watches and were often paired with gold or rose gold cases.

However, they gradually fell out of favor in the following decades as other styles of dials became more popular. Crafting a salmon dial is a complex process requiring high skill and attention to detail. The dials are typically made from a base of silver that is coated with several layers of color and finish to create the final salmon hue.

The exact process can vary depending on the brand and model, but it often involves a combination of electroplating, painting, and heat treatment. The result is a dial that has a rich, multi-dimensional appearance.

Should You Buy a Salmon Dial Watch?

The decision to purchase a salmon dial watch ultimately depends on personal preference and style. While salmon dials are currently a popular trend in the world of luxury watches, there may be better choices for some.

In terms of style, salmon dials can work well with a variety of outfits and occasions. Their distinctive color can add a touch of personality and character to an otherwise simple or classic watch design. However, it’s worth considering whether a salmon dial will complement your existing wardrobe and personal style.

A salmon dial may clash or draw too much attention if your wardrobe is mostly composed of muted or monochromatic colors. Similarly, there is no specific season or work environment where a salmon dial is more appropriate.

They can be worn year-round and in various settings, including formal occasions, the workplace, and casual settings. However, it’s worth noting that a salmon dial’s warm, orange-pink tone may be better suited to spring and summer when lighter and brighter colors are more prevalent.

The Top 20 Salmon Dial Watches

1. PATEK PHILIPPE PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH 41MM 5270P-001

The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a unique and beautiful timepiece. The 41mm platinum case has a thickness of 12.4mm and is complemented by the distinctive salmon dial, which sets this version apart from the classic silver-tone dial.

The dial features applied hour markers and multiple sub-dials to display the perpetual calendar information, including the day, date, month, and moon phase. The chronograph function is displayed through a sub-dial, allowing the wearer to accurately measure elapsed time.

The watch is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS, which has a power reserve of up to 65 hours and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The salmon dial, combined with the platinum case, creates a warm and inviting, elegant, and modern aesthetic.

The watch is finished with a black alligator strap and a fold-over clasp, making it the perfect choice for the discerning collector who desires a unique and stylish timepiece. 

Price: $211,720

2. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO 39MM 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo with a salmon dial is a magnificent timepiece that embodies luxury and precision. The watch features a 39mm 18-carat white gold case with a thickness of 8.1mm and is housed by the iconic octagonal bezel, secured by eight hexagonal screws. 

The white gold hands and markers against the pink gold-toned dial add a touch of cordial and classic. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 2121 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. The timepiece is finished with a matching 18-carat white gold bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. 

Price: $213,215

3.  ROLEX AIR-KING 34MM 114200

The Rolex Air-King is simply timeless. The watch features a 34mm stainless steel case and a simple yet elegant salmon dial, accented by applied hour markers and hands in white gold. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 3130 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 48 hours and is protected by a durable Oyster case, making it suitable for everyday wear. 

The watch is finished with a stainless-steel bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. The Rolex Air-King is an excellent entry-level Rolex. Still, the salmon dial’s uniqueness and recent resurgent popularity set this version apart from the classic models, making it a standout choice for the discerning collector. 

Price: $4,450

4. BREITLING PREMIER B25 DATORA 42MM AB2510201K1P1

Breitling is mostly known for their dependability and the pilot functions of their tool watches, but they aren’t always considered trendsetters in the design space, at least in recent decades. This watch might just change that. The B25 Datora is timepiece artwork at its best. The watch is encased in stainless steel with a salmon dial. 

The three subdials are all subtly sunken, and the day and date are set back from the main dial. The moon phase calendar is simply majestic. All the details, from the spacing of the text to the syringe hands, exude class. You could be forgiven for mistaking this timepiece for a Patek Phillippe. It’s that lovely. 

In typical Breitling fashion, this watch is big, bringing you back down to earth a bit. The case size is 42mm in diameter. It’s 15mm thick and sits high on the wrist. However, if you’re used to Patek pricing, the cost of this timepiece will put a smile back on your face.

The caliber B25 movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and includes the features of time, chronograph, calendar, and moon graph. All this is paired with a brown alligator leather strap. 

Price: $13,500

5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 31MM 77080

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31mm 77080, with the salmon dial, is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece. The watch is powered by a self-winding automatic and is water resistant up to 100 meters, which means it is suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not deep-sea diving. The watch is encased in stainless steel, and the case size is 31mm. It features a salmon-colored dial with silver-tone hands and indexes.

The Rolex 77080 features a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with an Oysterclasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet also features an Easylink comfort extension link that allows you to adjust the size of the bracelet without the need for tools, making it easy to get the perfect fit.

Price: $2,300

6. BREGUET TYPE XX-XXI-XXII 39MM 3820

The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantique is a sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed and crafted by the luxury Swiss watchmaker Breguet. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a rotating bezel and a salmon-colored dial, which gives the watch a unique and stylish look.

The watch is powered by the caliber 582, based on a Lemania 1350. It features a flyback chronograph function, allowing the wearer to time multiple events without the need to stop and reset the chronograph.

The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantiquel also has a date display at the 6 o’clock position and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The watch comes with a brown leather strap and a steel folding clasp, providing a secure and comfortable fit.

Price: $16,545

7. ROLEX DATEJUST SALMON ROMAN DIAL 36MM 16220

The salmon color dial with roman numeral hour markers adds a touch of uniqueness and sophistication to the watch, making it stand out from other models in the Datejust line. The dial also features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a cyclops lens, which magnifies the date for easy reading.

The DateJust 16220 features a 36mm stainless steel case with a smooth bezel, which gives it a sleek and elegant appearance.

The 1315 automatic in-house movement features a 42-hour power reserve. As is standard on most Rolex’s, the timepiece includes a waterproof screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 100 meters.

The watch comes with a stainless-steel Jubilee bracelet with a folding clasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet features a polished center link and brushed outer links, which gives it a sophisticated and refined look.

Price: $3,200

8. A. LANGE & SÖHNE DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON 41.5MM 740.056

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed by the renowned German watchmaker. The watch features a platinum case and a stunning salmon-colored dial.

The dial features a combination of Arabic numerals, baton-style hour markers, and luminescent hands. It also has subdials for the chronograph function, perpetual calendar, and moon phase indicator, which displays the current phase of the moon.

The perpetual calendar is accurate until 2100 and includes day, date, month, leap year, and day/night indicators. The case size is 41.55mm. The watch is powered by a highly complex and accurate movement, the caliber L952.2, which features a tourbillon and a flyback chronograph function.

The tourbillon is visible through the sapphire crystal case back and serves to improve the accuracy of the watch by compensating for the effects of gravity on the movement. The Perpetual Tourbillon is a limited-edition timepiece, with only 100 pieces produced worldwide.

The watch comes with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a platinum deployant buckle, providing a secure and comfortable fit. This timepiece is a masterpiece of watchmaking and is a highly desirable and sought-after timepiece, perfect for collectors and watch enthusiasts who appreciate the finest in horological craftsmanship.

Price: $278,800

9. PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR 39MM 5450P-001

The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is a stunning and sophisticated timepiece. This watch is housed in a platinum case, measuring 39mm in diameter, and features a beautiful salmon-colored dial that adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.

The watch features a perpetual calendar complication that displays the day, date, and month and requires adjustment only once a year in February. It also has a moon phase display that shows the current phase of the moon. The dial features applied white gold hour markers and dauphine-style hands.

This model is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which is one of Patek Philippe’s most accurate and reliable movements. The movement has a power reserve of approximately 45 hours and features a 21k gold rotor that provides efficient winding.

The watch also features a sapphire crystal case back, which allows the wearer to admire the exquisite finishing of the movement. The platinum case is water-resistant up to 30 meters, providing ample protection from the elements.

Price: $81,250

10. GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PANOMATICLUNAR 40MM 1-90-02-12-32-30

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar offers a unique and elegant design. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case and a salmon-colored dial that gives it a distinctive and eye-catching appearance.

The dial features a classic Panorama Date display, along with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a moon phase display at 2 o’clock. The moon phase display is particularly impressive, featuring a beautiful golden moon and stars set against a deep blue background, adding an element of romance and mystery to the design.

The watch is powered by a caliber 90-02 automatic movement visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The movement features a 42-hour power reserve and is beautifully decorated with Glashütte Original’s signature three-quarter plate, a swan-neck regulator, and a hand-engraved balance cock.

The dial is completed with a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, which complements the color scheme of the watch perfectly. The strap is secured with a stainless-steel folding clasp, providing a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.

Price: $10,409 (Priced at the exchange rate at the time of this article.

11. MONTBLANC HERITAGE 40MM MB119944

The case of the Montblanc Heritage measures 40mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is both polished and brushed, giving it a refined and modern look. The watch’s bezel is also made from stainless steel and is fixed.

The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, the MB 24.27, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The sophisticated salmon dial of the Montblanc Heritage is adorned with anthracite-colored Arabic numerals markers and luminous hands. 

Price: $2,435

12. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TANGENTE RED DOT 164.S10

This limited-edition watch is a celebration of the Red Dot Design Award that NOMOS won in 2018, and it is sure to turn heads with its unique salmon dial.

The case of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot 2018 measures 37.5mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is polished to a high shine, giving it a luxurious appearance. 

The watch is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, the NOMOS Alpha. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back and features a Glashütte three-quarter plate and blued screws, adding to the watch’s elegant and sophisticated aesthetic.

The salmon dial of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot is the star of the show, with its vibrant color and clean, minimalist design. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are slim and elegant, providing excellent visibility even in low-light conditions.

The dial includes a small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position, adding a practical element to the watch.

This model is finished with a brown Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap, which is both comfortable and stylish. The strap is secured with a stainless steel tang buckle, ensuring the watch stays securely on the wrist.

Price: $2,340

13. VARIO ECLIPSE SUNSTONE 38MM

The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is a unique and stylish timepiece combining classic design and modern flair. The watch features a 38mm stainless steel case polished to a high shine, providing a luxurious appearance. The case has a thickness of 7mm.

The standout feature of the Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is its dial, and convex salmon color sunburst, which gives the watch a beautiful and distinctive appearance. The sunstone dial is a warm shade of orange and has a captivating shimmer, which changes depending on the angle of the light.

The dial is complemented by gold-tone hour markers and hands. The watch is powered by a Seiko VH31 mechaquartz movement. The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch comes with a brown leather strap, which is both stylish and comfortable.

Price: $218

14. SINN 356 SA PILOT II 38.5MM 356072

The Sinn 356 case has a satin finish, which gives it a sleek and sophisticated appearance. It’s made from stainless steel and measures 38.5mm in diameter, which is ideal for both men and women. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters.

The dial of the Sinn 356 Sa Pilot II is a warm shade of salmon and features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are coated with luminescent material. The dial also includes a day and date display at the 3 o’clock position, which adds to the watch’s practicality.

The watch is powered by the Swiss-made Sellita SW-300-1 automatic movement. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back, showcasing the watch’s intricate inner workings. Paired with a handsome brown leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet. 

Price: $2,695

15.  ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT HERITAGE GMT 42MM AL-555RGS4H6

The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT is handsomely styled with a retro ‘70s look and is paired perfectly with a salmon dial, which features an eye-catching metallic sheen. The case is made from stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter, which is an ideal size for most men’s wrists. The case has a brushed and polished finish, which gives it a classy appearance.

The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The Alpina Startimer Pilot is powered by the Swiss-made AL-555 automatic movement. The watch is finished with a brown leather strap with contrasting white stitching. 

Price: $1,395

16. MONTBLANC HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH 40MM 119914

This timepiece has a charming, old-fashioned quality to the design. The Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph features a salmon dial with a sunburst finish. The hour markers and hands are black, which complements the warm tones of the salmon. The watch has a pulsometer function, which allows the wearer to measure their heart rate by counting the number of heartbeats in a set amount of time.

The pulsometer scale is printed in black on the outer edge of the dial and is used in conjunction with the chronograph function to measure the heart rate. The case of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm.

The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is powered by the Montblanc Caliber MB M13.21, a hand-wound movement that has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The watch is completed with a black leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle. 

Price: $30,700

17. CARTIER BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER 33MM WSBB0046

Cartier is a French luxury goods brand founded in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. While the company initially focused on jewelry and other luxury items, it was in the early 20th century that Cartier began producing watches.

Since then, Cartier has become one of the world’s most iconic watch brands, known for its distinctive designs, high-quality craftsmanship, and technical innovations. This timepiece is classy and distinctive.

The salmon dial with its soft circular pattern, silver roman numerals, sharp blue hands with black lettering, and its highly polished case and fluted crown is a fine work of art. 

The case size is 33mm, and the thickness is 10.16 mm. It features an automatic movement and is paired with a brushed stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $5,850

18. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TETRA DIVINE SPARK 444 29.5MM

The rectangular, salmon dial of the Tetra Divine Spark has a beautiful sunburst finish, which gives it a subtle shimmer in different lighting conditions. The dial is also adorned with a small seconds sub-dial, positioned at the 6 o’clock position. The sub-dial is framed by a polished steel ring, adding elegance to the overall design.

The case of the Tetra Divine Spark is made of polished stainless steel and measures 29.5mm x 29.5mm. The watch has sapphire crystal glass curved on both sides, giving it a unique and distinctive look. The Tetra Divine Spark is powered by the NOMOS Alpha movement, a highly regarded and precise manual-wind movement that has a power reserve of up to 43 hours.

The movement is handcrafted in-house by NOMOS Glashütte, a German watchmaker that is known for its dedication to quality and precision. The timepiece is paired with a velour gray leather strap with a pin buckle. 

Price: $2,320

19. MONTBLANC HERITAGE GMT 40MM MB119950

The Montblanc Heritage GMT is a beautiful timepiece that features a unique salmon dial. The watch is part of the Montblanc Heritage collection, known for its vintage-inspired design elements and high-quality craftsmanship.

The salmon dial is characterized by its sunburst finish. The dial is also adorned with a polished domed dial with applied Arabic numerals, dots as indexes, and a domed sapphire crystal.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 40mm in diameter. The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch also features a bi-directional rotating bezel that is engraved with a 24-hour scale, allowing the wearer to easily track a second time zone.

The timepiece is powered by the Montblanc caliber MB 24.05, an automatic movement that has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. 

Price: $3,006

20. FEARS BRUNSWICK SALMON DIAL 38MM (Individually numbered)

Fears is a British watch brand that was established in 1903 by a watchmaker named Aaron Lufkin Dennison. The brand was originally called “Dennison Watch Case Company” and was primarily known for producing high-quality watch cases.

In the 1920s, the company began producing complete watches under the Fears brand name. The timepieces were known for their precision and durability and were popular among military and professional users.

The brand became especially famous for its military watches, which were used by the British military during World War II. The Brunswick’s copper salmon dial is a nod to vintage designs from the ‘40s and ‘50s and was created with 18c gold and copper and finished with a brushed look.

The skeletonized hands look blue in some lights and black in others. There’s also a sunken sub-seconds dial at the 6 o’clock position. The timepiece is encased in 316L steel, and the case size is 38mm. It’s powered by an ETA 7001 automatic movement.

Price: $3,000

PARTING THOUGHTS

Luxury salmon dial watches have become a popular trend in the world of luxury watches thanks to their distinctive and unique appearance. The warm and inviting tone of a salmon dial is a refreshing change from traditional black and white dials, making them a perfect addition to any watch enthusiast’s collection. The history and craftsmanship behind these watches are a testament to the dedication and attention to detail that goes into their creation. 

While the decision to purchase a salmon dial watch comes down to personal preference and style, these watches offer a level of character and distinction unmatched by other styles. As the popularity of these watches continues to rise, it’s clear that salmon dial watches are here to stay, making them an excellent investment for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

The firmament has enthralled humans since time immemorial, but space travel has remained largely inaccessible to most. In 2021 Virgin Galactic, a space tourism company, sold 90-minute rides to suborbital space for about $450,000 per seat.

Axiom Space, another company that offers human spaceflight services to individuals and groups, was also marketing a 10-day trip to Space for $55 million at that time. The figures show how much space exploration has been reserved for the elite few.

But what if you could still have something truly out of this world without spending half a million dollars? What if you could own an extraterrestrial piece from a comet, asteroid, or meteoroid?

Introducing meteorite dial watches, the perfect amalgamation of time and space! Coming from cosmic rocks that survived a journey of hundreds of miles through the atmosphere to get to the Earth’s surface, meteorites are debris from asteroids or even exploding planets.

Here we take a look at the best watches equipped with superbly inviting meteorite dials.

About Meteorite Dial Watches

Meteorites are both astrological and mystifying. These unusual celestial materials have been used to make jewelry for decades. In 1922, a team of Egyptian excavators (led by Howard Carter) found meteorites among the objects retrieved from the tomb of Tutankhamun. 

In the watch industry, however, its use is a recent occurrence. It’s not certain which meteorite watch was the very first, but in 1986, Corum unveiled a timepiece with a meteorite dial. The meteorite used was one discovered by  Robert E. Peary (a famous explorer) in Greenland, and the watch was called the ‘Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Meteorite Dual Time watch‘. 

Rolex is another brand that has used slices of meteorites to make elegant dials for decades within the Daytona and the Day-Date collection. Nevertheless, with the advent of the 21st century, many high-end brands began to unveil meteorite dials intermittently. 

Each meteorite is literally out of this world, and the dials with them feature a naturally occurring configuration that cannot be replicated synthetically. Apart from their rarity within the horological world, they became famous for their mesmerizing appearance due to prominent Widmanstätten structures.

The striations and patterns are highlighted after the slice of meteorite to be used for the dial has been cleaned, polished, and ‘etched’ with an acid (often nitric acid). These are called Widmanstätten patterns after Beckh Widmanstätten, who was director of the Imperial Porcelain Works at Vienna in 1808.

It was he who discovered that heating iron meteorites influences their natural luster and reveals a fine interleaving of long nickel–iron crystals that are both dramatic and distinctive.

Should You Buy A Meteorite Dial Watch?

Mysterious and architectural, meteorite watches tell a compelling story that will make a difference to the wearer anytime, any day. From outer space to planet Earth and then to watch’s face, these space rocks travel billions of miles across the universe to get to a timepiece. That said, why would anyone desire anything less?

Not only do you get a chance to own a piece of the molten planetary core that has existed for billions of years, but you also get to hold a fingerprint of the universe in your hands. I say this because each meteorite dial is unique. So no two meteorite watches produced will ever appear the same.

Collectors who view their passion for obtaining rare timepieces as a convergence of time and space would find these space-material watches particularly satisfying.

Many meteorite timepieces are elegant conservative dress watches and make a great ‘tuxedo timepiece’ for formal occasions. However, some of these are also known to offer a few ‘extras’ upon closer inspection, so they end up fitting various styles and can be used in any season.

12 Best Meteorite Dial Watches

1. Rolex Day-Date Meteorite Dial (ref. 228239)

Coming in an 18kt 40mm white gold case, the Day-Date (the first timepiece to spell out the day of the week in full) is the ultimate watch of prestige. Its meteorite dial features a unique crystalline crosshatch pattern called the Widmanstätten pattern or Thomson structure. 

18kt white gold hands adorn the luxe face of the dial, while baguette diamond index hour markers add excellence to the overall visage. 

With a 12mm case thickness, a lug-to-lug distance of 47.4mm, and an 18kt white gold President bracelet, the timepiece epitomizes wealth, and will accommodate a variety of medium-sized wrists. Rolex’s fluted bezel with a wavy design is instantly recognizable for gracing the watch pleasantly. 

An arched day indicator window can be seen at the 12 o’clock position. Beneath it is a polished Rolex logo and the words ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date’ neatly spelled out. At the 3 o’clock position is the date window with a cyclops magnifier that has been integrated with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal to heighten the legibility of the date window. 

Oscillating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is Rolex caliber 3255, an automatic movement with 31 jewels. It provides an outstanding power reserve of 70 hours.

2. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Meteorite (ref. 311.63.44.51.99.001)

Trends come and slowly fade out of existence, but never extolled timepieces like the Omega Speedmaster. Since the Speedmaster’s tryst with fate in 1969 when the original model landed on the moon, the collection has continued to be included in NASA’s certified equipment for space.

But the world is evolving, and the Speedmaster Professional has also been transformed into something more elegant, resplendent, and ostentatious.

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Meteorite is one of the most glamorous versions of the collection, boasting a slice of the rare piece of extra-terrestrial rock that hit planet Earth in prehistoric times.

The sleek gray ceramic case measures 44.25mm in diameter and has two recessed chronograph pushers bordering the winding crown. The bezel is Omega’s patented 18k Sedna gold, and the red gold alloy has also been employed in the making of the hands and applied makers.

The gray dial is breathtaking and has light-colored streaks organically integrated with darker bands to give a unique combination. Two sub-dials are neatly placed at 3 and 9 o’clock, while a date window is at the 6 o’clock position. A sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides protects the dial.

The Speedmaster Meteorite is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 9300, a top-tier automatic chronograph movement that offers the wearer up to 60 hours of power reserve. It is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and comes mounted on a gray leather strap with a titanium foldover clasp.

3. Rolex GMT Master II Meteorite Dial (ref. 126719BLRO)

The Rolex GMT Master ll meteorite watch is arguably the most practical awe-inspiring timepiece out there. That said, if you are searching for a rare watch that is refined and compelling from Rolex, look no further. 

The remarkable quality of the utilitarian timepiece is akin to other sports watches from Rolex, but the magnificence of the Gibeon meteorite is what takes it to another league. The white gold case measures 40mm in diameter, comes with a screw-down case back and Triplock winding crown, and has been mounted on a white gold Oyster bracelet. 

Like many other meteorite dials from Rolex, the sliced piece of Gibeon meteorite has been treated with an acid wash to reveal the streaky surface known as Widmanstätten patterns. Applied white gold indices and bold hour markers adorn the face of the dial, and both have been generously filled with Chromalight luminous solution. 

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the watch’s dial, while a cyclops lens magnifies the date display at 3 o’clock. The bezel features a two-color Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic, and the watch has been designed to tell the time simultaneously in two different time zones.

Powering the watch is the caliber 3285, Rolex’s in-house movement with a Parachrom hairspring, a Superlative-Chronometer certification, and a Chronergy escapement. The robust movement delivers an impressive power reserve of approximately 70 hours and an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

4. Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Caliber 321 (ref. 311.93.42.30.99.001s)

Presented on a non‑grained alligator leather strap, the 42mm platinum-cased watch represents the height of haute horlogerie. I consider this piece an enchanting window into the world of space. 

The dial is a true reminiscence of the vintage Speedmasters but is more spectacular and refined as it is fashioned out of polished black onyx. The lush onyx dial lays the foundations for the three chronograph sub-dials that are all made with slices of lunar meteorite. 

The streaked slate-gray meteorite subdials have been positioned at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. At 3, you will find the small seconds subdial, at 6 is the 30-minute counter, and at 9 o’clock is the 12-hour counter. 18K white gold has been used for the hour and minute hands, while plated brass is used for the central second hands. 

The dot over 90 or DO90 Bezel is a fascinating detail for ambitious collectors. Speedmaster fans will immediately notice that Omega has trailed the path of the vintage models that used this same bezel design until the 1970s. The bezel printing features a little indicator or dot above 90 on the tachymeter scale. 

Other details that bear a resemblance to the original models include the double-step case back, a second hand with a teardrop tip, the memorable bezel layout, and even the Omega logo with the inscription “Professional” at 12 o’clock. 

This timepiece houses the legendary Calibre 321, which is another heartwarming fact. A true veteran of space travel, the Calibre 321 still beats at 18,000vph, which is its normal slow pace; however, the power reserve is now 55 hours. It can be viewed through the sapphire-crystal case back.

5. Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Behold one of the most ingenious and exceptionally impressive haute horology icons. The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon! Representing a powered sculpture as much as an accurate timing machine, this watch is a tourbillon with an avant-garde, built-on-demand moon phase that is drawn up with the help of a pusher on the case.

The timepiece, which was designed in collaboration with Renaud & Papi, comes in a platinum case that measures 47mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.65mm. The timepiece is hefty and large, going by its measurement and robust arching lugs.

But the large size contributes to revealing the ostentatious openwork construction of its breathtaking dial and the profound complication of the movement within. According to the timepiece’s name, the watch brings in the presence of planet Earth and outer space, as seen in the appearance of a polished meteorite stone and platinum.

Following the supreme tradition of Cartier Fine Watchmaking, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch presents two displays through an impressive interplay of indications.  The usual display that shows the local time with a time zone indicator appears as a 24-hour disc on one side. Then a lunar display with a juxtaposed tourbillon and Moon-phase on-demand is on the other side.

The Ref.WHRO0013 features two sub-dials, each with a disc of meteorite stone. The subdial at the top of the timepiece houses the elegant Cartier blued-steel hands and is for telling time. It can be adjusted by the pusher at 2 o’clock.

The other meteorite disc, partly concealed at 4 o’clock, comes entirely into view with the help of the second pusher, which will automatically eclipse the tourbillon. Ticking at 21,600 vibrations per hour is the caliber 9440 MC movement with a mainspring that provides up to 72 hours of power reserve. The breathtaking movement can be savored through the case-back of the watch.

6. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite Dial (ref. 116519LN)

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite is presented in three elegant variants. The first option is an 18k white gold case watch mounted on an Oysterflex bracelet. It flaunts a black ceramic monobloc Cerachrom bezel and a tachymetric scale.

The second and third options are 18K yellow gold, and 18-carat Everose gold (Rolex’s proprietary rendition of rose gold) watches with metallic bezels and Oyster bracelets, respectively. 

Rolex takes the trio to a whole new level by adding a flawless meteorite dial to the classic Daytona formula. Technically, the Daytona recipe has not changed; the same 40mm gold case is used here, the black ceramic or gold bezel, and the robust caliber 4130 movement powers all three watches. 

Only the meteorite dial makes this watch stand out with a unique personality. The Widmanstätten pattern or streaky configuration created by the crystalline framework of the meteorite has been polished but still retains a rougher appearance than the smoothly-finished lacquered dials of other Daytonas.

The Rolex coronet logo, applied hour markers, hour, minutes and seconds hands, and chronograph register borders sport the same color as the case. The fixed bezel has an engraved tachymeter scale and a screw-down crown which uses the Rolex Triplock system to ensure the timepiece is water resistant up to 100 meters. 

The hands and hour markers are generously filled with Rolex’s Chromalight for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. 

Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the self-winding caliber 4130 with 44 jewels and 201 components. The watch comes with a 5-year warranty and has an impressive power reserve of approximately 72 hours when fully wound.

7. De Bethune DB28XP

Firmly established as an innovative watchmaker in the micro space of high-end luxury watches, De Bethune is recognized for its technological mastery, avant-garde movements, ingenuity, and impressive materials. 

The brand, founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet in 2002, has continued the art of traditional making with cutting-edge technologies. The De Bethune DB28XP is the immaculate manifestation of the brand’s watchmaking ideology.

The case has been finished in matte black Zirconium oxide, which is superior to the traditional cases used for most watches and is nearly impossible to scratch. It measures just right at 43mm and 7.3mm high and will sit snugly on the wrist, thanks to the floating skeletonized lugs from De Bethune. 

The meteorite used for the dial is believed to be “Muonionalusta”, and the brand’s expertise has enabled it to create an outstanding design from the heated meteorite. The blued meteorite dial has been interspersed with marked purple tones, and finally, a lineup of white gold pins has been driven by hand into the dial’s surface. 

An anthracite hour ring with pink gold Arabic numerals adorns the dial, while the arrow-shaped hour and minute hands match the surrounding chamfered blue polished steel rim. 

It is fitted with the aesthetically imposing Calibre DB2115v7 that can be seen through an opening at 6 o’clock.

8. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf SS Automatic Meteorite Dial

Zodiac is a watch brand with a unique heritage. Credited with manufacturing the first automatic sports watch, the watchmaker is known for offering excellent Swiss watches with innovative designs.

Presented in stainless steel that measures 40mm in diameter, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf timepiece features a gray and orange color scheme that draws attention to the meteorite dial. 

The meteorite used here is believed to be the ancient Muonionalusta Meteorite discovered in Sweden in 1906. The unique patterns give the dial a look that no other watch on Earth will share with it and enhance the natural configuration of the dark dial; gray and black accents have been used for the hands and hour markers. 

The case and bracelet are DLC gray to compliment the dial, while the gray bezel inserts feature orange accents that legibly display the first indexed 15 minutes. Much attention has been given to the dial to make it ultra-legible and practical.

The hands are baton-shaped, the hour markers are rectangular, and both have been generously filled with lume to offer profound readability in low-light conditions. A lone screw-down winding crown can be seen at the 3 o’clock position, and together with a compact stainless steel case back, 200 meters of water resistance is guaranteed.

The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal and comes mounted on a 5-link stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly-style deployment clasp. Beating in the heart of the watch at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Swiss-made automatic STP 1-11, with 26 jewels that provide 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered Meteorite Dial

Jaquet Droz is a renowned mechanical genius famous for its watches, songbirds, and androids. The brand has adhered to the highest possible standards in its sophisticated designs and intricate mechanism.

Many people familiar with the elegant designs of the high-end luxury watchmaker will not find the signature figure eight on this dial strange. This time, however, it has been tilted by about 30 degrees, including the movement, so the crown has moved to the 4 o’clock position.

The meteorite dial lends the watch a distinctive character with its Widmanstätten pattern, while the eccentric Jaquet Droz-styled dial transforms the entire wristwatch into a piece of art. The timepiece is completely breathtaking, with its off-center hour and minute display being positioned towards the Northeast location of the dial. 

It interlaces with the applied gold rings of the large off-centered seconds subdial, giving the entire watch a healthy dose of equilibrium. Like the rings, the hour, minute, and seconds hands have been fashioned out of 18k pink gold. 

As rare as the meteorite itself, the limited collection is available in three variants. There is a pink gold case model that measures 39mm across, another variant decorated with diamonds, and a third model that measures 43mm in diameter and features a red gold case. Visible through the sapphire exhibition case back is the self-winding caliber JD 2663P that provides an impressive power reserve of 68 hours

10. Piaget Altiplano Automatic Meteorite Dial

Piaget is a brand that has firmly established itself as daring, creative, and bold, with an audacity of unmatched style. The Altiplano Meteorite watch follows Piaget’s tradition in offering this elegant timepiece in a sleek and discreet case that makes modern luxury appear easy.

The case, which is made of 18k pink gold, measures 40mm in diameter and has been thoroughly polished. The height of the watch is only 6.5mm, and this feat has been achieved by some complex technicalities, including a thin movement that stands at a mere 3mm.

Even though the caliber 1203P (visible through the sapphire case back) is very, very thin, it still provides an impressive power reserve of 44 hours and operates at 3Hz. The dial, which is a thin slice of meteorite, has undergone treatment with nitric acid to reveal the distinct Widmanstätten patterns, which appear as elongated iron crystals running parallel to each other in blocked sections.

Adorning the dial is the pink gold applied indexes and hands, which complement the 18k pink gold case and perfectly match the meteorite dial. Being that the timepiece is a sleek dress watch, every component has been well-proportioned. 

The flat polished bezel, minimalistic crown, thin lugs, and even flat case band all accentuate the slim case giving the watch a personality on its own. It comes mounted on a gray alligator leather strap with an 18K pink gold pin buckle. 

11. Louis Moinet Man on The Moon

Louis Moinet is famous for its utilization of meteorites and fossils, and other exotic materials in creating high-end timepieces. In addition to the brand’s expertise in astronomical indications, Moinet’s watch line exudes extravagance, with each distinct timepiece making a loud statement that travels beyond planet Earth. The Meteoris watch collection bridges the gap between terrestrial art and outer space.

Incorporated with a genuine fragment of a Lunar meteorite, the Louis Moinet Moon watch comes in a 43.2mm 316L stainless steel case that is somewhat complex. The case features a stepped bezel with the upper section firmly attached to the head of the main watch with the help of six screws.

A capsule has been positioned at 3 o’clock, and it is here that a fragment of the stunning lunar meteorite sits against the brass dial. The openwork dial was designed to mimic the moon’s surface, especially the lunar impact crater features such as Gassendi, located at the northern edge of Mare Humorum, Tycho, and Cassini.

The hours and minute hands exude a unique gracefulness and have the flamboyant Gouttes de Rosée (dewdrop) tip. The hour markers aggrandize the allure of the breathtaking dial and are somewhat suspended in mid-air.

The cutouts on the dial also reveal the movement, escapement, and offset hands. Delivering up to 48 hours of power reserve,  the Calibre LM45 has been decorated with diamond-polished facets and circular-grained wheels. The timepiece is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and is presented on a hand-sewn blue alligator leather strap with an alligator lining.

12. Zelos Mako 500M Diver Meteorite

Zelos is a microbrand known for its unique timepiece that often draws inspiration from the rarest of places. Recognized for using non-standard materials in its production process, Zelos has a catalog of impressive watches made out of titanium, bronze, and many prized ancient materials, including meteorite discs.

The Zelos Mako 500 Meteorite is one such innovative creation with an impressive water resistance rating of 500 meters. Measuring a comfortable 40mm diameter (46mm diameter lug to lug), the stainless steel case was built to suit different occasions and wrists. 

The dial features a natural gray Widmanstatten Pattern and comes from a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite. The textured dial features small circular hour markers filled with BGW9 lume. Applied triangles adjoin the hour markers at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock, while a white-on-black date display has replaced the 6 o’clock index. 

The dial is uncluttered, clean, and legible with the applied Zelos logo above and the words “500m/1640 ft” and “Automatic” placed below in light blue. The hour and minute hands are slim-faceted swords in gold, while the second hand appears as a paddle with a light red tip.

Protecting the dial is a domed ‘box-shaped’ sapphire crystal that measures height to 15.4mm. On the other side, the brushed stainless steel case back features a raised illustration of a shark. It is driven by the Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.

Conclusion

In the world of magnificence and grandeur, meteorite dial watches are known to leave a strong expression. Since crafting a dial out of a rock is a truly delicate task, they generally command high prices. This is understandable because of the brittle nature of the special matter and the fact that the dial must be cut to an incredibly thin slice which sometimes still has to undergo drilling for the hands, numerals, etc.

While some people may consider the use of meteorites in watchmaking absurd and bland, the compelling story that comes with each meteorite dial timepiece brings our existence in the universe into focus and reminds us of our place as humans.

Find more enchanting meteorite dial watches right here.

As I sit here in my home office wearing my Datejust 41 (ref. #126300), with the white dial, of course, I’m smiling to myself. You see, ever since I got into watches, I’ve always been drawn to the ones with white dials like my dog is to socks. While I haven’t quite pinpointed what it is about them, I know they look great, whether on my wrist or someone else’s. 

Walk around your local downtown, grocery store, or mall, and us watch enthusiasts can spot a white dial watch from a mile away. Finding the right one can be a daunting task as there are endless options but don’t worry; we’ll discuss a few that I believe to be great.  

What’s a White Dial Watch?

You probably just read the header to this section and thought, “AJ – a white dial watch is simply a watch with a white dial,” to which I would respond, “yes, but there’s more!” The dial (or face as it’s sometimes referred to) color can be very important for how the watch presents on the wrist, which I’ll touch on in a bit.

While the first introduction of these watches is open to debate, we can safely say that they can be traced back to at least the 1940s. Historically speaking, you’ll find white dials popular among dress watches, but that isn’t to say you can’t find them on sports, dive, or other types of watches.

Over the years, watchmakers such as Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have introduced models in white that have become icons. Speaking of Rolex, the Daytona (ref. #6239) has become one of the most famous watches over the years. Not too difficult, I believe, when the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman wore it.

To Buy or Not to Buy a White Dial Watch?

Yes, you should. Ok, I think we can move on now. I can’t make choices for you, but I’ll try to explain my fascination with these watches. You should know that I’m not a person who likes attention, but I like to zig while others zag.

Amongst a sea of black, blue, and silver dial watches, white tends to stand out a bit. I know 3 seconds ago I said I don’t like attention, but there is a certain degree of flashiness a white dial offers while not going over the top.

They’re also incredibly legible, and it’s nice to be able to quickly and easily read the time on our watches, right? Before purchasing any timepiece, it’s important to put it on your wrist, especially if you’re considering a white dial watch. You see, watches with this dial color tend to present larger than they actually are.

An example is the Rolex Explorer II. The watch comes in black and white. If you try both on or look at pictures, you’ll see that the white dial looks considerably larger than the black one, even though they’re the same size. At 42mm in diameter, it should be noted that dial color matters, especially if your wrist leans on the smaller side. Let’s discuss some other greats, shall we?

20 White Dial Watches that are Outstanding

1. Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. #NJ0150-81A)

Citizen is a great brand, so it’s no surprise they’re included. The Japanese watchmaker offers an excellent everyday watch with an automatic movement, the caliber 8210, with approx. 40 hours of power reserve. The case is 41mm in diameter and only 11.7mm thick, which are great proportions for a lot of wrist sizes.

What I love most about it is the price point, which is very accessible at under $500. The watch is also well proportioned with a running seconds hand beating at 21,600 vph (vibrations per hour) and a cyclops date window. The only text on the dial is “Citizen” at the top & “Automatic” at the bottom. Minimal text for the win! The bracelet offers high-polish center links and brushed outer links.

I think this contrast in polishing is wonderful and adds a mix of dressy and sporty. The clasp is fully brushed, so while it will scratch, it won’t show them as much as a high-polish clasp would. Citizen decided to offer an exhibition-style case back, meaning the wearer can see the movement while the watch is off their wrist. A nice touch that I personally wish more brands would offer with their watches.

2. Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic (ref. #T1164071601100)

Tissot has a reputation for excellence, and I love what they’re doing lately. The Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic, which I will now refer to as “The Gent” for short, comes in a 42mm case diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 22mm lug width. Lug width may not be a big deal to everyone, but for some, 20mm or 22mm size means lots of options for strap changes.

Speaking of straps, this one has the option of either leather, steel, or fabric. The case is made with 316L steel, a highly scratch-resistant and great metal. It has 100 meters of water resistance, so if you elect the steel bracelet or other waterproof straps, this one can easily be taken in the pool or ocean. Not sure I would dive too deep with it, so be weary if you’re into that sort of activity.

I’m fearful of the ocean, so you won’t find me going below a few feet anyways. What really blows me away is the movement. Tissot has a patented “Nivachoron” balance spring, a titanium-based alloy that is more resistant to magnetic fields. The cherry on top is The Gent’s 72-hour power reserve (chef’s kiss).

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. #H69439411)

The hardest part of writing about watches is that I want every watch I write about. I know it’s a tough job, but someone’s gotta do it. I’m sure my fiance won’t mind if I just get one more, right? The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is no exception.

Wow, what a watch! 38mm matte finished case, durable military green NATO strap, automatic movement, 20mm lug width, and 80-hour power reserve. Do I really need to say more?! I have yet to touch on lume, and this watch has Super-LumiNova, which means it’ll be bright and long-lasting. 

If you’re unaware, lume is charged by the sun or other light sources and enables the wearer to wear the watch in low light or darkness because it offers a nice glow. Typically lume is applied on the hands and hour markers. A fun fact about the Hamilton Khaki is that it’s a recreation of the original 1960s version, and I think it does a great job of keeping that military-inspired look.

4. Victorinox Alliance (ref. #241871)

Somehow (don’t ask me how), Victorinox has pulled off a simple-looking watch that has a lot going on. That is if you allow yourself to look closer. The dial offers what they call three-dimensional, and it certainly gives that illusion with its stepped-down dial.

The company’s logo is at 12 o’clock, 9, and 3 are in Arabic numerals on the dial and a well-executed date window at 6 o’clock. That dial is mesmerizing with its grainy textured appearance. Again, we have a great size of 40mm and a lug width of 20mm, all held on with a black leather strap. I absolutely love the contrast between white dial watches and black leather straps.

The ticking happens with the ETA movement 2892, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. ETA movements, along with Sellita, are popular choices among big watch brands, extremely reliable, and easily serviceable. While the leather strap fancies this one up, the design of the dial brings it back to sporty, enabling this watch to be very versatile.

5. Seiko Presage (ref. #SARX055)

Only a matter of time before I mention this brand. Nicknamed the “Baby Grand Seiko Snowflake” due to its stunning textured dial, this Seiko is a real looker. First introduced to us in 2017, it offers a 40.8mm titanium case. You read that right—the first watch on the list to offer this type of metal.

If you’ve never experienced a titanium watch, they’re worth trying on and can be pretty surprising if you’re not expecting their lightness. Inside is the reliable 6R15 automatic movement with an accuracy rating of +25/-15 seconds per day.

Of course, it’s not the best timekeeping watch on the market, but it’s certainly fair given the sub $1,000 price point. What stands out most to me is the elegance of those sword-style hands and the splash of color we get with the blue seconds hand. It’s easy to get caught staring at this one. The watch leans more on the dressy side, but there’s no doubt it can be paired with a tee shirt and jeans.

6. Longines Presence (ref. #L4.921.4.12.2)

I typically wear my watches with anything and don’t particularly like putting them in a specific corner. That being said, it’s tough not to look at this watch and think, “wow, what a classy-looking timepiece. That would look nice in a fancy restaurant.” For me, what puts this watch in the category of a dress watch is the calf leather, crocodile-style black strap. It also comes in stainless steel at 38mm in diameter and only 8.3mm thick. If you’re keeping track at home, that’s quite thin for an automatic movement, which in this case is the caliber L888 (a Longines exclusive) conditioned to go 72 hours on a full wind.

It has some water resistance but just enough to get a few splashes on while washing your hands. The dial is clean, with the only text besides Longines being the word “Automatic” in all caps at the bottom. Longines offers excellent watches with a rich history. My grandfather owns a gold Longines watch from the 1960s, so the brand certainly has a special place in my heart.

7. Oris Divers Sixty Five “Social Club Edition” (ref. #01 733 7707 4051 OSC-MIL-Set)

Our first dive watch! And it’s not just any dive watch; it’s the Oris Divers Sixty Five inspired by the iconic model from 1965. While there are many variations from the Swiss brand, this one is the “Social Club Edition” and is unique because a portion of the purchase goes back towards your community.

Now, I’ve always been a sucker for black/white watch combos, and this one is no exception. There’s just something about that white dial with the circular indices and the black bezel. It just pops so well. Divers can get chunky, but luckily, this one is only 40mm in diameter and relatively thin.

It’s got everything you’d want in a watch under $3,000: screw-down crown, automatic movement (Sellita SW 200-1), 100 meters of water resistance, excellent brand, and comes with a black leather strap. Just be sure to swap it for something that will handle water a bit better before jumping into the pool. What I love most about this beauty is the ability to dress it up or down, as it works in all situations.

8. Tudor 1926 (ref. #M91550-0005)

When I first look at this watch, a couple of thoughts immediately come to mind. First, the blue against the white dial is perfect. It had the danger of being too striking, but Tudor did a fantastic job of toning it down with that amazing textured dial.

And second? It’s dressy in nature when you consider the 7-row steel bracelet, but then it has that mix of arrow/numeral indices and “Self-winding” text that appears to smile up at the wearer. The watch is going to fit a lot of wrists with a steel case of 39mm. It’s a time and date watch powered by the caliber T601 movement, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

This piece also comes in a variety of sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm and can be paired with various straps from Tudor. If you didn’t know, Tudor is a sister company to Rolex. They make many incredible watches, and what I love is that you get that Rolex quality but at a more affordable price. By the way, the watch is called 1926 because that’s the year Tudor was founded by Hans Wilsdorf.

9. Nomos Tangente (ref. #101)

Can we take a quick moment to thank Nomos for that easy-to-remember and, most importantly, short reference number? Other companies can learn from Nomos’ ways (looking at you, Omega). The first German watch to be discussed today, the Tangente’s unique design makes this a winner to me.

Dimensions are great: 35mm case diameter, 6.2mm thick, and only 45mm lug-to-lug. A quick note: the lug-to-lug measurement is important when discussing the wearability of a watch because a large size here can make the timepiece hang off either side of your wrist. In other words, it’s the length from the bottom of the lug to the top. 

It’s powered by the caliber “alpha manual,” an in-house movement that is manual wind. This means that the wearer will need to wind the watch once every two days, according to Nomos. It has a small running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position and the only text being “Nomos Glashutte” at 12 o’clock. It stays on the wrist with the help of a Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black strap. Bravo Nomos, and please keep them coming.

10. Cartier Tank Must Watch Large (ref. #WSTA0041)

I must confess something. I’ve been into watches for years, but until recently, I didn’t pay much attention to Cartier as a watch brand. That’s a mistake I’ll have to live with forever, but luckily, I’m on board now. The Cartier Tank Must Watch Large is beautiful, coming in steel with a case dimension of 33.7mm by 25.5mm and 6.6mm thick.

This model contains a high-autonomy quartz movement, although there are other options. The other quartz movement is the “small” version and has dimensions of 29.5mm by 22mm and 6.6mm thick. Lastly, there is an automatic option called the extra-large model. It has a case size of 41mm by 31mm and a thickness of 8.4mm, all while being the only option with a date function.

The Tank Must watch comes on an interchangeable black-grained calfskin strap. When I look at the watch, my eyes immediately fixate on those blue hands and how they perfectly align with the second, minute, and hour markers. These fine details in watchmaking make me absolutely adore this wonderful work of art.

11. Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic (ref. #10518)

As a watch geek, I can get caught up in the nerdy technical specifications of a watch in an instant. So when I see that this watch, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic, is COSC certified, it grabs my attention. A COSC certification is only for Swiss-made watches, and means that the watch has been tested and passed a certain level of accuracy and precision. In other words, it’s going to keep great time.

Baume & Mercier has been making incredible timepieces for a while now, since 1830, to be exact. Not only does the Clifton Baumatic look awesome, with its perfectly proportioned dial, but it has 5 days of power reserve!

The movement beats at 28,800 vph and is protected by a 40mm steel case at only 11.3mm thick. It also comes on a black alligator strap and has an exhibition caseback, allowing the movement to be visible. The minute/second numbers on the edge of the dial make it just a smidge casual and easier to wear with almost anything.

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. #220.10.41.21.02.001)

Look, as a collector, there is no such thing as a one-and-done watch. My wallet doesn’t love me for saying that. That being said, if there was such a timepiece, this is the watch you’re looking for (to quote the great Obi-Wan Kenobi). The Aqua Terra lineup from Omega is superb, and this particular model comes with a stunning white dial. The lovely, horizontal lines across it sort of resemble wood planks across a wall.

The arrow indices pop, and the color contrast between the hands and the dial makes seeing the time extremely easy. We also get a few hints of color, which I love, with orange splashes on the seconds hand, every 15-minute mark along the outside, and the iconic “Seamaster” text. It comes in a 41mm diameter steel case that’s 13.2mm thick and has a water resistance of 150 meters.

The movement is a co-axial, anti-magnetic one from Omega, the caliber 8900, and has 60 hours of power reserve and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. If that weren’t enough for you, it’s also METAS certified as a Master Chronometer, meaning it has undergone extensive testing. It’s the highest certification a Swiss watch can achieve, so yeah, it’s a fantastic watch.

13. Grand Seiko SBGA289

Finding a watchmaker who makes a better dial than Grand Seiko would be difficult. Their finishing ain’t half bad, either. The SBGA289 has a 39mm case size, is 12.5mm thick, and comes in white gold. It’s simply breathtaking when you see it.

The dial is textured, with a sword-style handset and a blue seconds hand. The movement is the 9R15, a spring dive with a power reserve of up to 72 hours and an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per month. That’s right, per month! I nerd out with mechanical movements, but when you watch a spring drive tick, it’s mesmerizing how it sweeps across the dial.

The dial also includes a power reserve indicator, so you never have to wonder how much power your watch has left. It comes on a black crocodile strap, which is a color combination I never tire of. It’s been stated by many that no one in the watch industry works harder for your money than Grand Seiko, and I can’t help but agree with that statement.

14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. #5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain markets this watch, which is a part of a larger collection, as the “first modern diver’s watch.” In recent years, vintage-inspired dive watches have largely taken over watch enthusiasts’ Instagram feeds, but with a quick look at this Blancpain, one can spot a fresh look immediately.

The case size is a bit larger than the previous pieces we’ve encountered here. A 45mm steel case diameter at a thickness of 15.4mm is no small watch, but everything is wonderfully proportioned. The unidirectional rotating bezel is a glossy white with a silver 60-minute indicator. The quite impressive power reserve of 120 hours is due to Blancpain’s caliber 1315 movement.

With a water resistance of 300 meters, this watch should be suitable for recreational divers, and it even comes with a fabric strap. This, to me, is one of those watches that would look awesome on various colored straps to break up the tone of it with a splash of color. Do that, and you got yourself one heck of a watch.

15. Breguet Classique 7147 (ref. #7147BB/29/9WU)

Details, details, details! The 40mm 18K white gold case, sapphire crystal, “Grand Feu” enamel dial, Arabic Breguet numerals, blued steel hands, and that offset small seconds hand tucked in nicely between the 5 and 6. This watch is pure class and is wrapped up beautifully with a black leather strap.

The piece is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 SD with a 45-hour power reserve. The small details are, in my opinion, what set this watch apart from the rest.

The only text on the dial is “Breguet” in the iconic font, along with the words “Swiss Emaille Grand Feu” in small text that wraps around the bottom from the 8 to the 7. The minute indicators are quite pleasing to look at as well. Along with the 18k white gold version, this watch also comes in rose gold as another white dial option.

16. Omega Speedmaster White Side of The Moon (ref. #311.93.44.51.04.002)

If you’ve been even a little bit into watches, then you’ve likely heard of Omega. That means you’re probably aware of their most famous watch, the Speedmaster. This iconic lineup of watches has a wide array of options, but if you’re looking to go against the norm, the “White Side of the Moon” is a good place to start.

The case is 44.25mm in diameter and machined from a single ceramic block. Since it is made out of this material, it will be highly resistant to scratches. It features 50 meters of water resistance, so while I wouldn’t recommend swimming around, it certainly can get caught in the rain and be just fine.

The sapphire crystal has anti-reflective treatment on both sides, making it very easy to see the time even as the light reflects off it. Omega’s co-axial caliber 9300 powers this timepiece, and its automatic movement has 60 hours of power reserve. When it comes to iconic chronographs, one would be hard-pressed to beat out the Speedmaster.

17. A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 (ref. #110.029)

Certain brands are known to many, even if you’re not much of a watch person. Other brands, such as A. Lange and Söhne, may not be as recognizable to non-watch folks but do not make any mistake about it: they pack quite a punch.

This watch, in particular, the Lange 1, immediately requires a double take upon first viewing. The case is 18k white gold and measures 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm thick. The ticking comes from the caliber L901.4, which includes the patented big date at 2 o’clock and an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Since it’s a manual wind watch, the exhibition caseback allows us to see that incredibly finished movement without the rotor covering it up. I know I’ve stated my love for the white dial/black strap combo, but this one works so well with that dark brown alligator strap. This watch proves you don’t need dial symmetry to have an excellent timepiece.

18. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. #15210OR.OO.A099CR.01)

Tough to mention Audemars Piguet, or AP, without immediately thinking of the Royal Oak. How can I blame you? But AP makes other incredible watches, too, including this Code 11.59. The dial is “white lacquered” and surrounded by an 18K pink gold case. An interesting tidbit about this watch is the sapphire crystal.

It’s actually double-curved and gives off a unique perspective to the wearer in terms of depth as it moves around. The real estate taken up on the wrist is 41mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick. While there are other strap options, selling me on anything other than the hand-stitched brown alligator strap with the 18k pink gold pin buckle it comes on would be tough.

Finally, the caseback. You know, I have a love/hate relationship with beautiful exhibition casebacks. Obviously, I love looking at a well-finished movement, and well, it’s AP, so you know it’s going to be spectacular. What’s difficult is that it would always be on my wrist, which makes seeing the movement a challenge.

19. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. #5116G)

This is THE dress watch. All right, everyone, dust off your hands, and let’s go home. Ok, I may be slightly kidding, but this watch is it. The case is 36mm in 18k white gold and is manual wind (caliber 215 PS), time only. It features a double Hobnail bezel and comes on a black alligator strap. 

The Roman numeral style handset ties in so well with that small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. The exhibition caseback displays a beautiful-looking movement, which is finished to perfection. One would expect nothing less from one of the finest companies in the history of watchmaking. 

20. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. #81180/000G-9117)

Remember when I said that the Patek Philippe Calatrava was THE dress watch like 5 seconds ago? This is the problem (beauty?) with watchmaking: there are so many amazing options out there. Honestly, I would feel like the luckiest watch collector in the world with either of these. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, this VC Patrimony comes in a white 18k gold 40mm case.  

The dial is simple, with only hour and minute markers sweeping across the “Vacheron Constantin Geneve” text. The strap is black alligator called “Mississippiensis.” The movement is manual wind, the caliber 1400, and has a power reserve of 40 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph and is stamped with the “Hallmark of Geneva” certification. Not many certainties in life, but I can say for sure that this watch is timeless. 

21 – Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. #m126500ln-0001)

Another option that can easily speak for itself, I firmly believe you shouldn’t overlook the Cosmograph Daytona from Rolex. I’m talking about features like a Black Cerachrom bezel supported by a platinum-coated tachymetric scale.

The physical features of the watch are impressive enough, but their choice of a white dial is what really sells the surroundings. I feel like you get a great blend of timeless Rolex design with modern functionality when it comes to this watch. It’s also important to note that it comes with a three-link design and might seem bulkier on smaller wrists. 

Conclusion

As a multi-white dial watch owner, I can admit my biases in this discussion. Earlier, I talked about how when you walk through your local grocery store, mall, and restaurant, you’ll see an abundance of blue, silver, and black dial watches.

Do not mistake my intention here because there is nothing wrong with that. But if you’re in the market for something less common, go try on a watch with a white dial.  The best part? As you’ve just seen, there’s something for everyone. 

Glowing lights in dark places have often sparked a childlike fascination in humans. Think of bioluminescent insects like fireflies, glowworms, etc, and the naive thrill that emanates from watching these enchanting marvels immediately comes to mind.

It’s the same for watches. You don’t have to be a watch enthusiast for the luminescent material that glows through a watch’s dial in the dark to kindle a childlike sense of delight.

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material or glowing solution applied on watch dials to keep them legible in the dark. The first instances of watch luminescence surfaced during the first World War when soldiers desired to tell the time without using a flashlight. 

In response, watchmakers began applying self-luminous paint on watch dials. These luminous watches turned out to be a critical tool, enabling soldiers to tell the time in the dark during battles. Despite being a historic advancement in the watch world, the luminous materials were radium-based.

Repeated exposure to the radioactive substance proved fatal, leading to a drastic reduction in its use and a subsequent ban in 1968. Since then, lume has evolved. From the story about how luminous timepieces saved lives in hellish trenches to the best lume watches trending right now, read on!

Short Guide

What Is A Watch Lume?

Lume is a shortened form of the word luminescence. So when we talk of ‘lume’ watches, we mean watches with properties enabling them to emit light rays visible in the dark. 

A luminous phosphorescent solution is generally applied to the hands, dials, hour markers, and sometimes the bezels of a watch. Usually, in a green or blue hue, the glowing solution absorbs light and re-emits it. Though this normally occurs during production, it is possible to “relume” a watch’s dial. 

Reluming means removing the old luminous material from the dial, hands, and hour markers, and applying new luminous material to it. It is important to relume a watch if it is a vintage timepiece and has a dial containing radium lume (which is radioactive). 

The duration of the lume effect varies according to the type of luminous solution (more on this later) and the amount applied to the watch. Whether single or multiple layers are used to ensure a long-lasting glow depends on the cost of the watch and the brand.

Which Watch Brand Has The Best Lume?

Different watch brands use their proprietary blend of luminous material (often strontium aluminate), and the brightness produced at the end depends on the chemistry of the luminous materials. Many watch enthusiasts argue that Omega, Seiko, and Panerai are the lume kings. Super-LumiNova is what Omega uses and is a blend of strontium aluminate.

It also is one of the brightest and longest glowing lume with exceptional legibility. Seiko uses its proprietary LumiBrite, an impressive luminescence variant found in all its diver watches ranging from affordable models to ones reaching thousands of dollars. Even though LumiBrite is relatively new in Seiko luminous dial painting, the glowing solution is impressively bright, longer-lasting, and free of radioactive substances.

About Lume In a Watch

A timepiece is generally as useful as its capacity to tell time. That said, most watches invented before luminescence was applied to watch dials had limitations. Though exquisite and finely crafted, they were, at best, ‘part-time’ watches.

With no smartphones or streetlights, time reading at night meant holding your timepiece to candlelight. This soon became a major problem, leading to the invention of the minute repeater complication. Timepieces that featured this complication came with an independent chiming machinery that could strike distinct sounds for minutes, quarter hours, and hours with the aid of two small hammers.

Unfortunately, it was only for rich folks, and the problem continued until people got innovative, leading to the invention of lume. Applied mostly for the legibility benefits it offers, watch lume has proved immensely beneficial for telling time in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.

Luminous hour markers and hands were first applied to wristwatches when World War 1 was raging, and since that time, most tool watches have continued to use a healthy dose of lume.

Inherently a byproduct of warfare, lume was conceived solely for utility. As a matter of fact, among the British troops, a luminous wristwatch with unbreakable glass was part of the soldier’s kit.

Some contemporary watch enthusiasts may consider lume as nothing more than a cool detail that enhances the aesthetics of a watch. However, it does more than improve the visual complexity of any timepiece. It provides legibility in low light conditions, which remains extremely useful for camping and diving. 

Tales of Lume Watches: Where it all Began

Luminescent materials have been used in watchmaking for over a century. The history of watch luminescence goes way back to 1898 with the discovery of Radium by Marie and Pierre Curie. Already known for its self-luminous properties, watchmakers began applying radium paint on the dials and hands of watches to make them legible in the dark.

The first instances of this application surfaced around World War I when soldiers deserted their pocket watches and began depending on wristwatches because of the ease of telling time promptly. However, they couldn’t read their timepieces in the dark, and using a flashlight on the combat front meant giving away their location, hence the necessity of watch luminescence. 

The revolutionary lume technology was groundbreaking then, leading to global demand for wristwatches with it. Radium, which produced a bright glow when combined with zinc sulfide, was applied to the hands and indices to provide luminescence with a precision brush.

The brushes are pointed with the tongue before the application of the solution by the employees (primarily young women) to shape the bristles and achieve a fine line. Unfortunately, radium proved to be radioactive (yup, radioactive!), and several of these women developed severe medical complications as a result of the radiation exposure (the “Radium Girls” story comes in here).

Of course, it was time for a new type of luminous material. So watchmakers quickly replaced radium paint with tritium-based luminous material in the 1970s. Undeterred by its weak radioactivity, Tritium was used up to the 1990s. It was in the mid-90s that Kenzo Nemoto, a Japanese entrepreneur, developed a safe and non-radioactive phosphorescent solution.

The strontium aluminate-based photoluminescent material gradually took the place of tritium. However, it only partially replaced it. References to tritium today in watchmaking are often about tritium gas tubes. These tubes are thin cylindrical glasses filled with gaseous tritium to ensure a luminescent glow.

Recent luminous materials are based on photoluminescent solutions (like strontium aluminate). These non-toxic materials are used as lume and work by absorbing and re-emitting light. Examples are Super-LumiNova, Chromalight (Rolex), and LumiBrite (Seiko). They usually come in green or blue hues.

What to Look for When Shopping for Watches With the Best Lume

Luminosity

A perfectly lumed watch should glow homogeneously with no obscurity or shades of luminescence in the dial. The hands, indices, etc, should shine brightly for a long time. Some watch brands have mentioned that if the lume is exposed for up to ten minutes to the light of more than 520 lux, it will glow for somewhere between 30 minutes to three hours.

Lume Material

There happens to be an array of luminous materials used by different watch brands to keep watches legible in low-light conditions. Many brands even use patented photoluminescent formulas.

For instance, Rolex’s Chromalight has a signature blue sheen and lasts up to eight hours when fully charged, while Seiko’s Lumibrite can last for over nine hours. It’s important to note the lume material used for a watch before buying it if you’re particular about this feature.

Duration

The duration of the lume is just how long it will glow in dark conditions. It is clear that tritium was the strongest lume and lasted for several hours, but it’s now gone for all the right reasons. The lume of any timepiece is useless if the glowing effect endures only for a few minutes.

Factors that affect the duration of luminescence range from exposure to a strong light to the amount of lume applied and the type of luminous material used.

Looks

There is an assortment of preferences when it comes to the luminous coating in watches. The appreciation of lume does not end at its functional purpose but stretches to its looks as well. You would think that lume is one size fits all, but the range is quite varied, with the green and blue lume being the most common. 

C3 Super-LumiNova has the brightest strength and gives off a green (sometimes yellow) color. BGW9 follows closely and is light blue in the dark but somewhat whiter during the day. There are many other colors you can choose from but expect a reduced amount of brilliance.

Watches With Tritium Lume

1. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical

Starting this list is none other than Marathon’s General Purpose Mechanical (GPM) – 34mm watch. Loved for Its military-issued timepieces, Marathon is renowned for combining Swiss engineering and expertise with military robustness.

Tritium radiance is a pivotal element across the brand’s collections, and if you really want a functional watch with outstanding tritium lume, Marathon is highly recommended.

Made in Switzerland and created to meet tough MIL-W-46374 specification standards, the GPM (General Purpose Mechanical) watch was designed with the highest level of craftsmanship and quality.

The high-impact composite fiber shell case measures 34mm and will stay tightly fitted to a range of wrists, thanks to its 16mm nylon strap that coordinates with the color of the case. Born out of military necessity, the dial is everything you’d expect from a function-first tool watch. 

The Lume used on the indices and hands is none other than tritium gas tubes which will continue to glow without exposure to light. Unlike other contemporary luminous materials, tritium is also known to offer consistent brightness for prolonged periods. 

The dial is thus guaranteed to offer impeccable legibility in all lighting conditions, especially when you include spectacular white hands projecting from a matte black dial.

Beating inside the heart of the watch at a rate of 21,600bph is Seiko’s NH35, a reliable automatic movement with 24 jewels. The dial of the GPM is guarded by extremely strong and scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal. 

2. Ball Roadmaster StarLight Bronze Watch (42mm RR1102-C)

Ball Watch is a Swiss luxury company known for its quality timepieces that work incredibly well in adverse conditions. Apart from churning out elegant watches, Ball is one of the major brands that employ the use of encapsulated tritium hour markers on its timepieces to enhance legibility.

In terms of design, the watch brand stands out for creating timeless watches that feature a modern yet classic look. Coming in a bronze case that measures 42mm, the corrosion-resistant Ball Roadmaster Starlight Bronze Watch demonstrates a strong emphasis on functionality.

Since the clear and swift reading of the dial has always been a top consideration for every BALL watch, the numerals and hands feature the brand’s signature tritium gas tubes. The luminous properties of these tritium tubes can glow perpetually for up to 25 years without requiring charging from an external light source.

Due to the glass tubes used here, the numerals have turned out to look a bit digital, giving the watch a distinct look that offsets the vintage idea. Apart from the copious luminescence, the dive watch is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters and is COSC chronometer-certified.

For those unfamiliar with the term, COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres. Every timepiece certified as a chronometer by the COSC must have undergone a series of rigorous tests. The bronze watch is equipped with the automatic ETA 2836-2, which provides 38 hours of power reserve. 

3. Luminox Leatherback Sea Turtle Giant, 44MM – 0337

Luminox is a luxury watch brand notable for its value-driven timepieces that were rugged enough to be the number one choice for U.S. Navy SEALs in the early 1990s.

The California-based watchmaker has made Its mark in the watch world thanks to its readable, robust, and high-quality tactical watches. The Swiss-made timepieces are known for providing long-term luminescence with the use of GTLS (Gaseous Tritium Light Source). 

The Leather Sea Turtle Giant features a case back that mimics a turtle’s curved shell earning it the turtle nickname. The dial features the proven GTLS Luminox technology that guarantees self-powered readability in low-light conditions with a constant glow for up to 25 years. GTLS tubes are incorporated into all the hour markers. 

Additional tritium inserts adorn the hands of the watch, offering a 24hr illumination. The Cabonox case is extremely lightweight, weighing only 45 grams on its webbing NATO strap. Coming from Luminox, the watch is flawlessly styled with orange accents that contrast with the green dial producing an overall legible effect.

With a diameter of 44mm and a lug width of 22mm, the sports watch will sit snugly on various wrists. Inside, an affordable and highly accurate Swiss Quartz movement powers the watch. Apart from requiring little or no manual maintenance, quartz movements are known for their longevity, as they can last the user up to 30 years. Finally, this affordable timepiece has a screw-down case back that ensures 100 meters of water resistance.

Watches With Super-LumiNova

Super-LumiNova happens to be the go-to luminous material of many reputable watchmakers. It is a Swiss-made lighting product with no radioactive properties (unlike radium and tritium). As a result, it is 100% safe for the end user and the manufacturer. It is based on alkaline earth aluminate and works by absorbing natural and artificial ultraviolet light during exposure, which illuminates in lowlight conditions.

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ref. 220.10.41.21.10.001

Starting this part of the list is none other than Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra for all the right reasons. In 1997, Omega announced that all its watches would no longer use tritium. In replacement, a blend of strontium aluminate or Super Luminova was to be used.

Since then, Omega has stayed as one of the watch brands with the brightest and longest glowing lume. Indeed this timepiece is a nod to Omega’s long-standing reputation for top-notch legibility.

Equipped to remain readable at profound depths and darkness, the Seamaster Aqua Terra comes in a stainless steel case with a polished and brushed bracelet.

The sun-brushed green dial is both legible and stunning, with a design that features horizontal teak patterns. Omega does a great job marrying functionality with aesthetics to create an elegant timepiece.

The rhodium-plated hands and indices are all filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal readability even at depths of 150 meters underwater. The 41mm stainless steel case houses the Caliber 8900, which offers an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. 

Manufactured to the highest standards, the Aqua Terra 150m is a standard luxury selection for anyone desiring one of the best luminous watches with a quintessential design. Lastly, it has a transparent case back, a self-locking crown, and a date display window at 6 o’clock.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927

Famous for its chronographs, TAG Heuer remains a favorite sports watch brand with one of the most renowned racing and diving timepieces. The Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 bears TAG Heuer’s sporting spirit with a subtle masculine flair that is complimented by a modern touch.

The iconic sports watch was designed with refined hands and indexes that are easily readable even at top speed. Horizontal stripes add depth to the blue dial, while the bold hour markers and hands have been generously coated with green C3 lume.  

Everything looks particularly sharp; the uncluttered dial, dodecagonal bezel, bold hour markers, etc, all with a generous application of Super Luminova for excellent legibility all around the clock.

The sharp-lined geometric steel case measures 43mm in diameter. Together with the slightly elongated lugs, a perfect balance between aesthetics and comfortability is attained. A combination of brushed and polished surfaces makes it sharp but not overly glittery, which is just ideal for sports-car enthusiasts.

Overall, the Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 was designed to offer optimal legibility at top speeds and does that beautifully. It is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters (30ATM), and a Sapphire crystal protects the dial. Powering the watch is TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5, which offers 38 hours of power reserve. 

6. Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date

Coming in the sub-$1000 range, the Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date elaborates on Heuer’s technological innovation in motorsports. Built for those who dare to constantly be on edge, the watches in the F1 line are all bold, precise, and ultra-legible.

The Grande Date comes in brushed stainless steel that measures 44mm in diameter with a height of 12.50mm. The measurements might seem big, but due to the shape of the case and bezel, it wears thinner than the measurements indicate.

The dial layout is flawlessly styled with luminous hour markers and numerals. One of the most interesting things about this timepiece is that it offers a full lume dial against other luminous watches with lume applied only on their hands and hour markers.

That said, the entire dial glows in low light conditions, but different shades of Super-LumiNova are used for the numerals and markers. Readability is optimized with this approach making it an integral tool for racers and divers alike. There’s a beautiful sub-dial for the seconds with a perfectly integrated date display (“Grande Date”) at 6 o’clock. 

Overall, the whole dial is super legible with raised black markers that are round, just like the classic F1 timepiece. A distinctive triangle above the 12 o’clock position adds to the symmetry of the dial, while brightly brushed numerals on the uni-directional bezel can be seen at 5-minute intervals.

A quality quartz movement keeps the watch highly accurate, which is just appropriate because racers should never have to bother about winding their watches. The elegant timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters, and the dial is protected by a flat Sapphire crystal.

7. Longines Hydroconquest L3.781.4.56.6

Longines is a brand with a strong heritage in the vast world of watchmaking. Known for creating the first chronograph movement for a wristwatch (the ‘13.33Z), Longines has longstanding ties to varied forms of water sports and horse racing. The Hydroconquest line boasts this rich tradition with refined elegance and technical innovation.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, the Hydroconquest Ref. L3.781.4.56.6 is a high-performing timepiece with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. Though the dimensions suggest the watch is hefty, the curved lugs and flowing bracelet ensure a firm grip on the wrist. The case features a matte brushed finish letting the sunray black dial reflect pleasantly. 

Large applied Arabic numbers at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions contribute to the personality of this timepiece, while silvered polished hands and lumed dots keep the dial ultra legible and neat. There are no lumed dots on the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, and the Arabic numeral at 3 o’clock has been discarded for a date window to maintain the dial’s symmetry.

All the hands are silvered polished and have been treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova that will glow green in lowlight conditions. The central second’s hand has a ‘lollipop’ on its head, which is luminescent, the minute’s hand has lume down its spine, and the hour hand has a diamondlike area also filled with lume. 

Overall, Longlines goes above and beyond to offer maximum legibility, which can immediately be noticed with the way the dial has been tidied up with all the extra details done away with. The bare essentials are further heightened with the sunray black and silver color; just the right color scheme for top-notch legibility. 

8. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence

Presented in a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter, the Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65 is an elegant watch with a vintage feel that does not compromise its sporty look. The case fit and finish are superb, with polished and satin-brushed surfaces that elegantly reflect the light.

The top is brushed vertically, the bottom axially and the sides of the case are horizontally brushed. Under the scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal is a grainy matte black dial moderately inlaid with Super-LumiNova. The black dial contrasts perfectly with the large and luminous Arabic numerals in white, offering crisp clear legibility whenever you need it.

The steel glaive hands of the Senator Excellence are also filled with Super-LumiNova, and little triangles on the chapter ring at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock highlight the practicality of the timepiece.

Day or night, the details on the dial can be read at a glance with zero inconveniences, as Glashütte’s designers have worked at keeping it visually striking. Inside the beautiful watch is the Calibre 36-01, a robust automatic movement operating at 4Hz (28.800 vph) with an impressive power reserve of 100 hours. 

The finely finished movement with polished chamfers, 21-carat gold oscillation weight, a skeletonized rotor, and blued screws can all be savored through the sapphire crystal case back. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

9. Hublot Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic (Ref. 451.FX.6923.FX)

Recognized for its mastery of complex materials, Hublot is a brand loved by many for its bold designs. The Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic is a sporty chronograph watch that bears Hublot’s innovative spirit and craftsmanship.

Coming in a 42 mm x 13.45 mm case, the model of this timepiece is monobloc so the first link of the bracelet has been fused with the case (hence the name of the watch). A high-tech ceramic that is highly resistant to scratches and about three times the hardness of steel is used for the entire timepiece except for the crown, folding clasp, H-shaped bezel screws, and a few others that have been crafted from titanium.

The open-worked dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The stunning dial showcases gears, a date disc, and a chronograph column wheel. At 9 o’clock is a skeletonized sub-dial, while at 3 o’clock is a chronograph counter.

The dial is profoundly readable due to its large hands and indices being filled generously with Super-LumiNova. The sports watch also has a sharp look that is just ideal but not shiny due to the alternating polished and satin-brushed finishing of the case and bracelet.

Beating at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Unico HUB1280, a self-winding chronograph flyback movement that offers 72 hours of power reserve. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

10. Oris Aquis Date (Blue)

The Oris Aquis Date is a stunning timepiece perfect for divers who desire to tell the time at a glance at depths where legibility is crucial. The dial has a shimmering effect which Oris attributes to the appearance of sunlight on the water surface, bringing considerable gleeful design to the otherwise tough and high-performance watch.

The ref:73377304135MB comes in a 43.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet. The sunburst dark blue dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal that has an interior anti-reflective coating. The overall legibility is captivating as the blue dial contrasts perfectly with the applied silver indices.

The silver indices, hour, minute, and second hands all have white Super-LumiNova inserts that glow green for maximum legibility under the waves. A date window sits neatly at 6 o’clock, keeping the uncluttered dial very balanced, so a lot of thinking must have gone into this dial to keep it legible and clean.

The bezel on the Aquis Date is also surprisingly crisp, and as usual, a ceramic bezel is known to be a champion against scratches is used. True to its purpose as a high-performing dive watch, the bezel has 15-minute markers and a dot in the triangle at 12, which is luminous.

Powering the timepiece with a 38-hour power reserve is the robust Oris 733 automatic which is based on Sellita SW200-1. It beats at 28,800vph and has 26 jewels.  

11. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Ending the best lume watches with SuperLumiNova is an extraordinary dive watch… I present to you Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in all its glory. The one word that can be used to describe this timepiece is ‘breathtaking’. It is bold, lovely, alluring, and radiant.

The watch features a black sunburst dial that contrasts excellently well with the white gold indices. The bezel also features Arabic numerals at fifteen-minute intervals with a few hash marks from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock. All of the markers are crisp white gold and contrast beautifully with the gloss black bezel.

The sword-shaped hands have been treated with Super-LumiNova and will let out a greenish glow in the dark. The handset is a defining feature of this watch; the large hour hand has a diamond-shaped area filled with lume, the longer minute hand features lume down its spine, and the lollipop zone of the central second hand is also luminescent.

To avoid undesirable reflections, the central facet has been flattened. Together with a fully-lumed bezel insert, the dial is profoundly luminescent, offering amazing low-light visibility. The case measures a full 45mm in diameter and is more than 15mm thick, so it’s not for people with narrow wrists. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. At the heart of the watch is the caliber 1315, an automatic movement with a solid gold rotor with 120 hours of power reserve.

The Best Lume Watches

12. Seiko Monster SRPH13K1

Seiko is undoubtedly a legend in the field of dive watches. The Prospex collection (Prospex is short for Professional Specifications) continues the brand’s legacy with this tough and durable timepiece. Presented in a DLC-coated stainless steel case that measures 42.4mm in diameter, the Prospex Monster SRPH13K1 is a true sports watch with a sharp design.

The striking black dial is consistent with the overall back theme of the watch. The watch has a lug width of 20mm, so you can quickly replace the silicon strap. The dial has a day-date window function at 3 o’clock with rectangular applied hour markers large enough to contain a generous amount of lume.

Seiko’s Lumibrite has been lavishly applied on the hour hand, minute hand, and triangular tip of the second’s hand, making the watch excellently legible in low-lit conditions. Since the watch has to be perfectly visible underwater, it is great to note that it meets the stern ISO 6425 “Diver” watch specifications.

The dial is protected by the brand’s proprietary Hardlex crystal, which is harder and more scratch-resistant than mineral glass. Above the day-date display is a magnifying glass (cyclops) to aid reading. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, an automatic movement with hacking and manual winding functions that offers a power reserve of 41 hours.

13. Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243

Instantly recognizable for its high-grade materials and understated elegance, Grand Seiko has become the number one go-to luxury brand with affordable and elegant timepieces. The Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243 measures just right at a diameter of 40.1mm across its stainless steel case, with a 46.6mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.8mm.

The dial is black with a subtle vertically-brushed texture, and the yellow accents add a certain sporty flair to the timepiece without taking away the overall vintage vibes. Large, applied indices have been generously filled with Seiko’s LumiBrite for legibility anytime, anywhere.  LumiBrite is an improved fluorescent luminous material that is brighter than some conventional luminous materials and is known to last up to 10 times longer.

The minute and hour hands also have a great deal of lume applied carefully to ensure excellent legibility. Besides clarity, Seiko’s Lumibrite also improves the aesthetics of the dial, giving it an additional dazzle. The quality of the case finishing is outstanding, with a screw-down crown and water resistance rating of 200 meters. 

Overall, the highly accurate quartz watch has been built with great precision and care, as can be observed in the diligence given to its execution. A sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface protects the dial.

14. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba (Ref. H82201131)

Coming in a 37mm stainless steel case, the Khaki Navy Scuba is a highly functional unisex watch with 100 meters of water resistance. The affordable timepiece exudes a sense of luxury with its black dial and stainless steel bracelet. The dial contains a lot of information but manages to remain uncluttered.

A 24-hour scale surrounds the inner part of the hour markers, which is typical of the Hamilton Khaki design. Bold white trapezoids take up all the cardinal positions (12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock), while rectangular ones are used for the other hour markers.

All the hour markers are filled with a generous amount of lume. The hands are mirror polished, and the hour and minute hands have also been treated with lume.  The healthy amount of lume in the hour markers and mirror-polished hands will keep the watch ultra-legible in the dark.

Prominent crown guards executed in a fine manner give the timepiece a tough look, while the screw-down crown, which feels smooth and pleasant to operate, has an H logo that compliments that of the dial. The highly accurate quartz watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters. Much thought has gone into the design and proportions of the Khaki Navy Scuba, and it is executed extremely well with profound legibility of the dial, hands, and bezel.

15.  A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen (Ref: 405.034)

A. Lange & Söhne is respected for its outstanding models with complications that range from chronographs, tourbillons, annual calendars, and perpetual calendars… you name it.

The ‘Lumen’ collection is defined by its luminescent-inclined timepieces that feature a copious amount of lumed markers. The Ref: 405.034 is a particular stunner in this regard and pays tribute to the brand’s long-lasting watchmaking tradition.

The 41mm case is made from platinum, a pure metal which, apart from being uncommon, is hypoallergenic and has a lovely density. The Datograph Lumen has a flyback chronograph (which allows you to operate the reset function without having to stop the chronograph), two sub-dials, a power reserve indicator, and a quick-set oversized date window.

The smoked sapphire dial is breathtaking and can be dubbed the king of lumed watches. Nearly all the indications on the Datograph Lumen are luminescent. The watch’s numerals, hour, and minute hands have an ample amount of luminous material and will glow brightly in the dark through the sapphire glass that features a light-permeable coating. 

The grand date is ultra legible and also luminescent. The chronograph sweep-seconds hand, the registers, the chronograph counters, the tachymeter, and the minute scale are all luminescent and will let out a magical glow in the dark.

16. Rolex Submariner Date

Aside from the reliability of a Rolex, the Submariner Date from their catalog is known for its beauty and sizable luminescence. More specifically, I feel the lume really has a chance to shine due to the contrast of the Oystersteel color.

The boldness of this watch is found in many components, from the thick rotatable bezel to a chromalight display. I can tell just by putting it on that the watch can last more than a single lifetime. Moreover, I can’t ignore the fact that the lume draws my eye in any kind of dim lighting.

You really don’t need it to be pitch black for the lume to stand out on your wrist. With a matching Oystersteel bracelet, the Submariner Date from Rolex offers a professional look without compromising on functionality.

More specifically, I always make it a point to highlight that the watch is made with 904L steel. This means you get substantial, durable resistance with a pristine finish that is a great example of timeless luxury. 

Although I don’t have much Rolex variety in my collection, this is one I had to have. For me personally, it’s the bold take with the lume that makes the watch feel a bit different from others I have on hand.

Conclusion

Watch luminescence has evolved over the decades with upgraded and better-quality luminous materials coming into the scene. Though solely conceived for utility, the patina craze reveals to us that the appeal of lumed watches is not only driven by their illuminating properties. 

Having a great lume watch is a necessity, and many watch brands now design their timepieces with a healthy dose of lume. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we carry a lot of respectable brands that produce watches with excellent lume. If none of the watches in this list meets your expectations, check out other brands here.

Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate, Exquisite Timepieces earns from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links. This helps support our website at no additional cost to you.

Of all the reasons to be enamored with the mechanical marvels on our wrists, one of the most enduring is the story! These stories come in many forms on a wristwatch, whether it is the historical provenance of a significant timepiece or just the history of the brand in general. 

I am an absolute sucker for watches that play into these stories and can offer that historical feel but in a fancy modern execution (Black Bay 58 is my current daily driver). As much as I love the look of these timepieces, I oftentimes struggle to build a real connection, and they find themselves on the chopping block. So what gives?

Turns out the stories a marketing department can tell are only part of the picture. When I am looking for a story, I am looking for more. I am looking for the story of the exact watch. Every scratch and ding helps to tell the story that gives these watches a unique history, one that you can’t just read about in a watch review. Sometimes you need to pick the watch up and let it speak to you.

When Is a Watch Considered Vintage?

It is true that even modern watches can pick up a history of their own, some faster than others depending on the clumsiness of the wearer. As scratched as they may be, these modern watches don’t carry the same level of charm as ones that we would consider vintage. For a watch to be considered vintage, I use the guideline of 40-70 years.

For some products, that may seem like an eternity, but considering the lifecycle of a properly maintained wristwatch, there is still plenty of tread left on the tire, even at this age. Ultimately, you want enough time to have passed for the trends to come back into fashion but not so much time that they seem completely antiquated.

Should You Buy a Vintage Watch?

With all the great modern options available to consumers, should you really purchase a vintage watch? Absolutely yes! There are 2 main reasons everyone should own at least one vintage watch throughout their collecting journey.

The first reason is financial. The world of vintage watches is some of the most fun you can have in this hobby for a relatively low amount of money. There are several brands that can be acquired in the vintage market that cost less than a replacement strap for a current example from the same brand.

The second and more sentimental reason comes back to history. Some things you just need to hold in your hand to appreciate, and watchmaking is a great example. To appreciate how perfectly machined your new Omega Aqua Terra is, you need to hold an Omega Seamaster from the early 1950s.

You can immediately notice the resemblance, but the glacial improvement in quality over 70 years has resulted in a product that doesn’t feel the same in hand. Both are incredible and offer the wearer a unique experience, but they are not the same.

Vintage Watch Buying Guide

Despite the unmatched coolness of a vintage watch, there are several reasons you should pump the brakes before immediately pulling the trigger. The world of vintage watches is filled with far more landmines than diamonds in the rough.

If you’re new to vintage watches, take a look at a previous article I wrote that references my 3 guidelines for purchasing a vintage watch. If you’re watching the deal of a lifetime auction count down and don’t have time to read that article, here are the cliff notes. Research is key! Pick a reference and learn everything you can about it!

The worst thing you can do is start learning about the reference once you have already made a purchase. Cheap does not equal good. Rarely is the lowest price you can find for a reference the best value. Don’t be afraid to pay tomorrow’s price today if the watch comes from a trustworthy seller or a better example. 

Finally, condition is everything. When it comes to vintage watches, the smallest variance in condition can swing the price by hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. Be patient and get the best example of the watch you are looking for.

Those lessons took years to learn and seconds to read! Do yourself a favor and use them! Now that we have a feel for what a vintage watch is and what to look for when purchasing one, let’s take a look at 20 of the best vintage watches, from affordable to luxury. 

This list will be broken down into several price categories featuring examples for every budget. To keep things interesting, I have only included 1 example from each brand. Kick back, grab a coffee, and get your flux capacitor ready; we’re going back in time and exploring 20 of the best vintage watches you can buy!

Best Vintage Watches Under $1000

Hamilton Thin-O-Matic

Kicking off our list is one of two classic American watch companies on this list. From the early 1800s through the 1970s, Hamilton was one of the most prolific watchmakers producing timepieces on American soil. The 1960s would see them make several timeless designs, none more timeless than the Thin-O-Matic.

The Thin-O-Matic earned its name with its thin case design and automatic winding capability, both made possible by their adoption of the Micro-Rotor developed by Buren. These watches come in several varieties but are mostly available in 33-35mm cases made of stainless steel, gold filled, or 10K gold. 

The dials tend to lean toward a minimal design but share one detail that helps them stand apart. The “Thin-O-Matic” logo on these utilizes some of the best fonts I have seen on any watch dial. Depending on the style and condition, these watches will set you back anywhere from $300-$800. Given the brand history, movement technology, and timeless design, this price is an absolute bargain!

Ball Trainmaster

The second watchmaker on this list from the United States is none other than the Ball Watch Company. Founded by Webb C. Ball in 1891 after the famous Kipton railroad disaster, Ball initially specialized in very accurate pocket watches and later transitioned into wristwatches.

The most classic example of this transition comes in the form of the Ball Trainmaster. A white enamel dial with black Arabic numerals and red second hand became the distinct look of a Ball Official Railroad Trainmaster. What would change in these models, however, was the case shape and material. 

Despite being available in several case materials and shapes, the 34mm stainless steel with twisted lugs is my favorite of the bunch. Coming in at anywhere from $300-$800, these watches represent a tremendous value for a piece of American railroad and watchmaking history.

Longines Flagship

Before their acquisition by the now SWATCH group, Longines was a luxury watch brand often compared to the likes of Rolex and Omega. Despite their recent increase in popularity, they now comfortably occupy a position beneath both of these prestigious brands in the luxury hierarchy. 

Thankfully for us collectors, nobody told their vintage models that they are no longer the prestigious pieces they once were. Their vintage timepieces are every bit the luxury watch of a Rolex or Omega from the equivalent time period.

One example of their luxury vintage watches is the Longines Flagship. First introduced in 1957, the Longines Flagship shares a lot of DNA with other luxury watches of that time. The 33-35mm case size and simple dial with dauphine style hands could come to describe any multitude of brands producing watches during the late 1950s and early 1960s. 

The difference between these models is in the details. From the quality of the manual wind 30LS in-house movement to the impeccable finish on the sunray dial with complementing hands and markers, this watch exudes class and quality. 

If you are looking for a vintage timepiece that has the hallmarks of the more expensive luxury brands but comes in at around $500-$1000 instead of the $2000-$5000 mark, the Longines Flagship is a great place to start your search.

Vulcain Cricket

Few brands have been featured on the wrists of as many influential people as Vulcain. Their timepieces have been seen on the wrist of almost every American President since 1953, when the first Vulcain Cricket was gifted to President Harry Truman.

Since then, the tradition of receiving a Cricket watch as US President has become an honorary tradition, even resulting in the nickname of the Cricket as the “Presidents Watch”. What made the Vulcain Cricket so special? The alarm feature helped to set this watch apart from other timepieces of the day.

Featuring a 33mm case dimension and hand-winding caliber 120 movement from Vulcain, these watches didn’t necessarily look too different from their less complicated competition. My favorite feature of these iconic timepieces is that you don’t need to be a president or even get paid like one to have it occupy a space in your watch box. 

Coming in at a price of $500-$1000, these watches offer a great history and tremendous value in the vintage watch market.

Zodiac Seawolf

In 1953 the world of watches was absolutely flipped on its head. The Rolex Submariner was introduced to the masses, garnering mainstream appeal for a complication first seen on the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms a year previous. The dive bezel fundamentally changed the watch market. 

Although Rolex is synonymous with this feature, they weren’t the first to introduce it, nor were they the only manufacturer to introduce one in 1953. The Zodiac Seawolf was introduced alongside the Rolex Submariner in 1953 and offered something more compelling for your everyday underwater explorer.

Where original examples of the Rolex Submariner can cost as much as a new luxury vehicle, the early examples of the Zodiac Seawolf can be found for anywhere between $500-$1000, depending on the condition.

These watches were a little smaller, coming in at 35mm, and featured fiction fit brass coated bezels, but the functionality was much the same as the Rolex. If you are willing to compromise on the size and wait for a good example without a worn-out or refinished bezel, these watches deserve the same level of dive watch street cred as the almighty crown.

Best Vintage Watches Under $5000

Omega Constellation 168.005

Stepping up to the under $5000 price mark, you start to see an increase in brand equity. In terms of mainstream luxury watch brands, few carry as much cache as Omega. They have a history of producing some of the most iconic timepieces and have great vintage pieces that could fall under any of the price categories available on this list.

At the crossroads of quality and price is the Omega Constellation, specifically with the “pie pan” dial and “dog leg” lugs (you’ve got to love the ways us watch enthusiasts find to describe a timepiece). The Omega Constellation is a line of watches produced by Omega beginning in 1952 and is still in production, albeit with a completely different design.

These watches were the premium offering from Omega during their initial run and have come to represent the very best in terms of construction and precision from Omega in their heyday. The reference number 168.005 was prevalent in the 1960s and, in my opinion, utilizes the very best design elements from this product line’s illustrious history.

The angular facets on the “pie pan” dial help to give this watch dimension and personality. The “dog leg” lug design compliments the angular dial while offering a more visually interesting appearance than a straight lug design. 

Coming in at a price of $1500-$3500, these watches are a considerable price increase from the similarly designed Seamaster but given their design and chronometer-grade movements are well worth the extra investment.

Breitling Navitimer 806

Another luxury brand that has managed to transcend the watch market into pop culture is Breitling. Their celebrity brand ambassadors, such as John Travolta and Brad Pitt, have ensured that their timepieces have remained at the forefront of the general public’s mind when it comes to luxury timepieces.

There are several iconic models they have to their credit, but there is no doubt that the Navitimer is the show pony of the brand. The 7806 Breitling Navitimer is a vintage example from the 1970s that provides the function and design that have helped this timepiece stand the test of time.

Breitling, of late, has been slowly transitioning away from the oversized designs of the early 2000s and back toward the classic aesthetic that this model evokes. While not diminutive, the 41mm case size is a welcomed size for a collection that regularly pushes 44mm+.

The manual winding Valjoux 7740 is technically a step down from the modern B-01 in-house automatic movements Breitling uses today but is unmistakably vintage and beautifully designed. Starting at $4500, these vintage examples offer a great entryway into the Breitling Navitimer, with an overall aesthetic in line with the current brand’s direction.

International Watch Company (IWC) Caliber 89

Many of the watches on this list are here because of the design or function they provide their end user. Although several models from the International Watch Company could fall into that category, it is their mastery of the simple 3 handed time-only movement in the 1950s that provides the best value for those hunting for a vintage watch from the brand.

The Caliber 89 was originally developed in 1946 and was utilized through the 1960s. These watches are simple dress watches in design, featuring a 35mm stainless steel or gold case, with thin hands and central seconds.

The beautiful script of the brand’s name and city of origin was often the only writing on the dial. The Caliber 89 movement itself was an overengineered 17 jewel manually wound movement ticking away at 18000 beats per hour.

The movement featured a tasteful finish and easy serviceability to please any watchmaker lucky enough to open one up. These watches can be found between $1500-$5000, depending on the case material. If you’re looking for a watch with a simple movement that got it right the first time, this is the watch for you. 

Doxa Sub 300t

In terms of luxury prestige, Doxa is not often a brand that comes to mind for many watch enthusiasts. They make some excellent watches but fall more comfortably in the premium tool watch category. Likewise, their vintage timepieces fall into a similar category as premium tool watches.

Because of their incredible functionality and iconic dive watch history, many of their vintage pieces have crossed into the luxury price range. Despite dating back to 1889, Doxa, as many of us recognize it, really began in 1967 with the release of their iconic Sub 300t dive watch.

This watch was different from anything else on the market and was aimed directly at the diving community. The bright colors helped with visibility underwater, while the no-decompression scale helped divers calculate safe descents with a click of a bezel. 

It wasn’t long before Jacques Cousteau, the grandfather of modern diving, chose Doxa as his team’s watch to accompany them as they explored undersea. The watch itself features a 42mm stainless steel case and comes in a variety of colors, my favorite being the Professional orange. 

If you are looking for a vintage dive watch with an incredible history but doesn’t look like every other one on the market for between $3000-$5000, the Doxa Sub 300t is a great option.

Universal Geneve Polerouter

Few brands have seen the spike in popularity with their vintage timepieces as Universal Geneve. They have some of the most revered chronographs to their credit while also producing the watch we will mention here, the Polerouter.

Perhaps, the greatest achievement of this brand is that much of its success has occurred recently, while the company can only be described as a shell of its former self. The Polerouter began production in 1954 to celebrate flights between Los Angeles and Europe that could now fly directly over the north pole to save several hours of flight time.

These watches provided a degree of anti-magnetism while packaged in an elegant design that evoked the class and sophistication of flying during the golden era. The Polerouter featured a 35mm case with twisted lugs and a textured dial ring. The later versions featured micro-rotor movements that helped to keep the profile slim while still offering the functionality of an automatic movement.

Perhaps the greatest part of the Polerouter’s history for watch nerds is that it was designed by a young Gerald Genta (I think he went on to create a couple of other iconic pieces, if memory serves!). If you’re looking for a watch with an interesting history, both mechanically and aesthetically, the Universal Geneve Polerouter for $2000-$4000 is as good as it gets.

Best Vintage Watches Under $10,000

Seiko Hi-Beat Diver 6159-7000

Whether vintage or modern, Seiko is a brand known best for its hits on the more affordable side of the spectrum. They have beautiful examples from their Seiko 5, Lord Matic, and King Seiko lines that could build a beautiful collection by themselves. In the 1960s, Seiko became a fundamentally different brand from what it was during the 1950s. 

The main reason for that transformation was the introduction of their iconic dive watches. There is a lot of fanfare, deservedly so, for the 62 MAS, and as much as I love this watch, I had to choose another model from their iconic archive for this list.

The 6159-7000 series Seiko Hi-Beat diver is the watch that really laid the groundwork for Seiko to become the dive watch powerhouse that it is today. Many of the design elements that we see in Seiko’s current lineup are present here with this model. The sharp edges and compact case design help this larger-sized 44mm watch fit great on even smaller wrist sizes. 

At roughly $6000-$8000, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver carries a premium fit and finish to match the premium price. If you are looking for the watch that set the foundation for some of our favorite Seiko dive watches today, the Hi-Beat diver is the one you’re looking for.

Enicar Sherpa Graph

One of the most exciting parts of exploring vintage watches is discovering brands no longer in production. One of the best examples of this discovery for me has been with Enicar. Despite being widely unknown outside select watch enthusiast circles, they designed some of the most beautiful tool watches of the golden era.

Unlike most of the now-defunct brands, however, Enicar has an impressive collector community, and their timepieces have become highly sought after. If I am looking for the watch that really grabs my attention from the brand, I have to pick the Enicar Sherpa Graph.

This 40mm stainless steel chronograph is one of the most balanced and aesthetically pleasing dials I have ever seen. The internal tachymeter scale and contrasting sub-dials give this watch a balanced and timeless design. However, the pops of color and fun logo take this watch to another level. 

These watches are powered by the infamous Valjoux 72 and can be found for $6000-$9000 (just a little cheaper than the more famous Rolex Newman Daytona that utilizes this same movement). If you are looking for a vintage chronograph with one of the best designs available, the Enicar Sherpa Graph is a great option for you.

Jaeger LeCoultre E2644 Chronograph

You don’t get the moniker of “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” by accident. Jaeger Lecoultre is a prestigious brand with several mechanical innovations under its belt. Despite having designed movements for the most luxurious Swiss watchmakers, some of their namesake watches, especially those not named Reverso, can fall into the category of under-appreciated. 

I hesitate to call the brand under-appreciated overall, but with a historical archive as impressive as Jaeger LeCoultre, it is almost impossible not to have some models that slip through the cracks. The Jaeger Lecoultre E2644 Chronograph is another Valjoux 72 powered chronograph that hasn’t yet seen the unobtainable pricing of other watches using this movement.

Coming in at a price of $5000-$7500, this watch features a 35mm case and a 3-dial layout. Despite being considered small by today’s standards, the chronograph pushers will help this watch provide a more suitable wrist presence. 

My favorite aspect of this timepiece is the fun use of color, particularly the fume blue dials that help give this watch a unique personality. If you are looking for an under-the-radar vintage watch from Jaeger Lecoultre, the E2644 Chronograph is the one to go with.

Heuer Carrera 2447

While we are on a roll with vintage chronographs, we might as well look at one of the brands most associated with the complication, Heuer. Finding their fame with their association in motorsports, it is no surprise that Heuer would invest heavily in the chronograph complication.

They have produced several iconic timepieces utilizing the feature, but there has always been one that stands above the rest, in my opinion. The Heuer Carrera, reference number 2447, is about as perfect of a watch as you will find. They feature the Valjoux 72 chronograph movement and a 36mm stainless steel case.

The watch utilizes a 3-sub dial design and has a very balanced dial. These watches are perhaps the second most famous watch to utilize this movement, behind the Rolex and have continued to rise in popularity because of it. 

As of the beginning of 2023, these watches can be found starting at just under $10,000, but I don’t expect that to be the case forever. There are plenty of examples that exceed this amount, but if you are patient and willing to put in some work, you can get this iconic model for a price that can feel like a downright steal when compared to the competition.

Tudor Submariner 94110

When looking into vintage watches, it is hard to overlook the popularity of the Rolex Submariner. The design has changed gradually throughout the years, allowing the aesthetic to remain virtually the same while the user experience is completely different.

Unfortunately for those of us without DuckTales money, a vintage Rolex Submariner is unlikely to happen. There is, however, another vintage Submariner available, and it comes from Rolex’s sister brand Tudor. The brand ethos of Tudor to produce lower-cost quality watches utilizing Rolex parts and design with stock movements has paid dividends for vintage watch lovers everywhere.

The 40mm Tudor Submariner 94110 is a beautiful stainless steel dive watch with a very similar design to a Rolex Submariner but featuring the iconic Snowflake hands.  There is something so pleasing about the square indices and Snowflake hands that the modern Black Bay or Pelagos just can’t compete with.

These watches will set you back roughly $7500-$10000 but represent a great value when compared to their sister brand Rolex. If you’re looking for a Submariner with a unique story and design, the Tudor Submariner 94110 is the one that I would go with.

Best Vintage Watches Over $10,000

Zenith El Primero A386

Here is the point in this list where things get a little crazy! To kick us off for our over $10,000 budget is a brand that is used to being first (just don’t ask Seiko), and that is Zenith. The brand most famous for its automatic chronograph known as the El Primero, Zenith is a premium luxury brand.

The El Primero line of chronograph watches is still the brand’s staple today, so let’s look at the model that has inspired many of the watches available today. The Zenith El Primero A386 is a 38mm stainless-steel watch featuring the high-beat automatic El Primero chronograph movement.

This movement has gone on to power several prestigious watchmakers, such as Rolex, with their Daytona model before going in-house. As much as I love this watch’s mechanics, it’s not the only reason it is on this list.

The aesthetics of the tri-color dial layout are really what separates this watch from the competition. Whether you are a movement aficionado or just someone who appreciates beautiful design, for $12500-$15000, this is one of the best vintage chronographs that money can buy. 

Rolex Explorer 1016

It was only a matter of time before Rolex made the list. The watch I went with is not the most expensive or the rarest vintage Rolex I could have put on this list, but simply the one with which I connect the most. Based on its surge in popularity over the last 10 years, it’s safe to say that I am not the only one that feels this way.

The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a simple field watch housed in a 36mm case and powered by an automatic Rolex in-house movement. This watch saw the largest production period of any Rolex model spanning 40 years with only very subtle changes. The painted 3-6-9 dial has become so synonymous with this watch that it is now referred to as an “Explorer” dial. 

Given the large production run and the fact that Rolex collectors are willing to pay astronomical prices for the most minute details, this watch will set you back anywhere from $10000-$25000+. It may not be the rarest or most sought-after from the brand, but If I won the lottery today, it would be the first watch I would drop my money on (certainly not the last, though).

Vacheron Constantin 222

The 1970s were a pivotal time of transformation for the watch industry. The increased pressure from Japan and their quartz technology began to filter out any brand pausing long enough to take a breath. In contrast, the most prestigious watchmakers of the time began to dabble in a completely new market, the stainless-steel luxury sports watch.

It’s hard to believe that luxury and stainless steel had not really crossed paths prior to this period. Although several of these models are available, let’s look at one that often gets overlooked. The Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel is an integrated bracelet sports watch that, despite having some inspiration from industry competitors Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, has a very unique look.

The 37mm case was considered “Jumbo” for the time period but allows this watch to be worn today in almost any situation. The distinct knurled bezel and hallmark imprinted insignia in the case help to differentiate this watch from the competition while also playing into the watch’s sportier vibes. 

Powered by a JLC 920, also known as the VC 1121 movement, this watch is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. Although currently not in production outside of a few re-releases, the 222 gave direct inspiration to their current sports watch, the Overseas. If you are looking for a timepiece with a distinct design from a Holy Trinity brand, the Vacheron Constantin 222, for $20,000+, is a great watch to consider.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700

When looking into iconic vintage watches, it is hard to overlook the significance of Gerald Genta. His designs helped to create an entire watch genre, not to mention help save the Swiss luxury watch industry from the impending threat of the “Quartz Crisis”.

Despite having several iconic models to his credit, some already appearing on this list, let’s look at perhaps his most hyped watch of all time. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 is the original version of one of the most influential watches of all time. This Nautilus remains aesthetically very similar today to the original released in 1976.

The integrated stainless steel bracelet and symmetrical crown guard design have become the signature attributes of this watch.  The movement powering this watch is the 28-255C self-winding, which is based on the same JLC 920 movement that Vacheron Constantin used for their 222 line.

The 42mm stainless steel case with the horizontally striped dial looks as timeless today as it did when it was first released. If you are looking for a truly iconic watch design and can afford the eye-watering $200,000+, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 will be hard to beat.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST

I bet you couldn’t see this one coming. We are wrapping up this list with the third member of the enthusiasts crowned “Holy Trinity”, none other than Audemars Piguet. There are several vintage models that would meet the criteria for this list, but given some of my previous picks, I can’t overlook the original stainless-steel luxury sports watch designed by Gerald Genta.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST is the watch that changed it all in 1972! It inspired 2 of the other watches on this list that I would purchase if money was no object. As much as I love the 222 and the Nautilus, the Royal Oak has the most purposeful design of the bunch.

The 39mm stainless steel octagonal case with an integrated bracelet is as tied to the Audemars Piguet brand as the name itself. The watch is powered by the caliber AP 2121, once again based on the JLC 920 movement (I guess that whole “watchmaker’s watchmaker” thing is more than just a marketing gimmick, after all). If you are looking for a watch that truly changed the trajectory of the luxury Swiss watch industry and have $60,000+ to spare, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST is the watch for you!

Conclusion

There it is, 20 of the best vintage watches you can purchase from entry-level to “who actually has that kind of money?”. Some of these options were layups, but I struggled a lot more than I expected putting this list together.

The under $1000 and over $10,000 were a breeze, but those in between budgets can actually be pretty tricky. No matter what your budget allows, following the guidelines discussed earlier will be your key to success. 

Whether you’re looking for an undiscovered gem or tracking down one of the most influential vintage watches of all time, make sure to enjoy the process. There is a lot of potential risk in the vintage watch market, but if you’re patient and well-informed, there can be even more rewards!

Happy watch hunting!