Category: Watch Reviews

Big date watches are works of art for hardcore horology lovers. And a simple timepiece for those who want a date window that’s easy to read. They don’t do much other than present you with an enlarged date window. 

But true watch buffs see beyond the dial. It’s their complex movements with intricate parts that make the hands tick. Another thing we love on big dates is their classy, dressy appeal. In this review, you’ll be captivated by their endless allure.  

We’ll look over twenty large date watches from as cheap as $300 to over $100,000. Our exquisite pick is the Philippe Patek Grand Complications. 

Your Big Date, Your Choice

You don’t have to splurge or search far and wide to pick a “great” large or “grande” date. All you need is a taste and a budget. Once you find a design that suits you, that’s all that matters. It doesn’t matter if it’s quartz or mechanical. 

The big date is simply a watch with a large date window. The only exception is that you may have to spend upwards of $800 to find one with an automatic or winding movement. 

About The Big Date Complication

Hold up! Big dates were a thing before Rolex shipped out those date-magnifying cyclops lenses. They still have this feature in their date watches – except for the Deepsea. That’s not our focus for today, but those engineered to have large dates, not ones under a magnifying glass. 

Original big date wristwatches had two large date windows. They were introduced by one of our favorite manufacturers, A. Lange & Sohne, the german watchmaker, in the 40s.

The First Date Window by a GP-Defunct Company

About a decade before, Mimo, owners of Girard Perregaux, released the first date watch (the Mimo-Meter) in 1930. At the time, it was such an essential function that its tagline was “the watch that sells itself.” 

Admittedly, it could have been a better look compared to today’s standard, but it was a groundbreaking feat nonetheless. 

The Big Entry

Helvetia introduced the first prototype of a true big date complication when they released a watch with two legible date windows. Unlike the Mimo-Meter, the windows were also more prominent than the indexes. The watch was powered by a Helvetia caliber 75A housed in a familiar tonneau-shaped case. 

But the Helvetia date complication needed to be fixed. It had a thing for running over the last day of the month to the 39th. And then switch to zero unless you manually change it. But they corrected this with a pusher in the crown. 

Enter a few years, many brands, including Mimo and GP, jumped on the idea of the big date. And they used Helvetia’s caliber 75A. 

The Purpose of Big Date Watches

A big date watch serves one functional purpose – to easily read dates on the dial. If that’s why you’re here, consider your needs met. Today, though, millennials and Gen Z folks would shrug it off as their top reason because smartphones and smartwatches are now a thing.

But if you’re intentional about the construction, you’d also get your taste of some of the most complicated models. Some big date watch movements carry the peripheral, overlapping, disc-on-disc, and unconventional stacked date discs.

Top 20 Big Date Watches for Every Man and Woman

Without wasting time, I’ll hook you up with the best big date watches in ascending order. Let’s go from entry-level to elite class. 

1. Seiko SPC153

Starts from approximately $150

There are two ways around this watch: either you roll your eyes in, or they light up as you sight the price tag. If it’s the latter, you’re in for a treat. The Seiko SPC153 is a classic and reliable timepiece, actually a steal. But that’s not a surprise coming from Seiko. 

The SPC153 is a stylish and sporty big date chronograph that’s powered by an in-house quartz movement. This Japanese budget watch is 42mm across and 12mm thick, with a masculine appeal. 

At the heart of this watch is the Seiko caliber ZT04. The battery-powered movement has a well-contrasting date window below 12 o’clock. The white date window pops on the black background of the main dial and subdials.

It makes it easy to read the date even though it’s a smaller font than the main indexes. It’s a nice dress watch and a budget option to add a dressy and rugged date window watch to your collection.  

2. Spinnaker Hull Chronograph

Starts from approximately $235

The Hull Chronograph is a bold vintage watch with a bulky 42mm frame. If bold and classy is your style, you’d confidently rock this boxy 15mm thick Spinnaker Hull. 

It features a genuine 22mm leather strap with durable stitching to the booth. In addition, you can improve the Hull’s versatility with add-on straps in fabric, rubber, and nylon in different variations. 

The dial is strikingly remarkable for its price. It’s a sandwich dial with a rug-like finish, the big date at 12 o’clock, and a noticeably bright lume. All of these are packed into a tall cushion-shaped solid back stainless steel case with an attractive polished tachymeter scale bezel.

The SP5068-01 chrono is fascinating when you consider how its deeply-recessed date and dial remain visible at angles despite having a double-domed crystal. 

However, the mineral lens is inferior compared to sapphire, although it’s scratch-resistant – understandable at its price point and craftsmanship level. What makes this beauty so affordable is probably its Japan VK73 Meca-quartz movement. 

Overall, the Spinnaker Hull chronograph is a feature-packed big date chronograph and a top choice if you are okay with quartz. 

3. Junkers Big Date (ref. 6640-1)

Here’s an entry for my classy, simple, and dressy watch guys. Junkers, an obscure German watch brand, offers a piece to drool over and for a good price. Sporting a white corrugated sheet dial with calligraphic Arabic numerals and a sizeable date window riding down north, the model Date 6640-1 would go with you for days. 

It’s an iconic dial that pays homage to the corrugated sheet body of the first all-metal airplane – Junkers J1. Not to mention it’s only 42mm and weighs under 70 grams, so you can rock this baby carefree. 

Add its two time zone function is a great everyday companion. It has a separately adjustable 12-hour time zone dial at 6 o’clock you can control with one pusher. The Junkers 6640-1 also runs a battery-powered Ronda 6203. B quartz movement. Unlike most dual-time complications, its dual-time is easy to read and operate for first-time owners. 

4. Certina DS-1 Big Date (ref. C029.426.11.041.00)

Starts from approximately $932

The Certina DS-1 is a fresh turn from what you’ve seen in this review. It boasts a colorful and numberless dial that allows the big date to shine. 

The dial is a shade of blue and black, with swordlike hands and markers reminiscent of the black panther mask. This combination of deep colors contrasts with the plain white big date window. 

Located at 6 o’clock, the date is the only number on the dial and is considerably bigger than the hour marker. Without question, its double tens date is easy to read. And easy on the wrists.

It’s 41mm and less than 12mm thick, giving it a sleek, minimalist profile. The Certina DS-1 uses a Swiss-made Powermatic 80 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve.

Furthermore, its exhibition-style case back gives true big date watch lovers a thing to show to friends and family when they go on about the mechanism. All in all, the Certina DS-1 is a great beginner mechanical big-date watch to buy on a budget.

5. Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date (ref. AL-372NB4S6)

Starts from approximately $1,100

This pilot watch combines a sporty, toolsy look with a touch of elegance. The bold 44mm diameter, 13mm tall stainless steel case with chrono pushers appears to be an instrument watch. 

But a closer look at the details will make you think twice. The Startimer, for one, has a finely brushed and polished case in addition to polished hands, pushers, and a grandiose crown. 

The navy blue dial synchronizes with the counters, indexes, hands, and the large date at 6 o’clock. Couple these with a calf leather strap, and you can’t help but have a gentleman’s watch. 

The Alpina Startimer has precision considered one-of-a-kind for a pilot watch. Well, actually, it uses a quartz AL–372 movement that lasts for four years. Get the Alpina for a stylish big date and a functional pilot watch in your collection. 

6. Mido Baroncelli Big Date (ref. M027.426.36.018.00)

Starts from approximately $1,100

Mido has one of the larger collections of large date display watches. But this rose-gold-plated Baroncelli is the model that takes the cake. 

It’s an embodiment of simplicity and luxury. The Baroncelli is a 40mm round case mechanical watch with a cow leather strap that’s only 10.4mm thick. That alone shows extra comfort even before it adorns your wrist. 

The Baroncelli’s plain white dial has a sunray finish that has an interesting play on light. Its rose gold plated hands and stick hour markers give the watch a refreshing pop of luxury. 

The Baroncelli runs on a powerful Mido caliber 80 (based on ETA C07.651) movement as icing on the cake. It’s presumably named after its astounding 80-hour power reserve. The Mido Baroncelli is easily the finest dressy big date with a perfect balance of form and function. 

7. Longines Master Collection Big Date (ref. L2.648.4.78.6)

Starts from around $2,000

The Longines stays on the trajectory we’ve come so far. It’s easy on the eye and classy. It’s your typical Arabic numeral dial in a stainless steel case and bracelet. The only difference is it introduces you to what luxury watches feel like. 

For one, the indexes are stylishly written, like calligraphy or animation. And it sports the rare feuille or “leaf” hand design seen in iconic watches like the Mont Blanc Star Legacy and H.Moser & Cie Endeavor watches. 

The Master Big Date also has a guilloche finish dial, which you only see in top-tier watches. If you need to familiarize yourself with the term, it’s a decorative pattern that resembles thorns or pyramids. Well, that’s the thing about artful timepieces: you get to picture them in your reality. 

Generally, this Longines facilitates clean and easy yet stylish timekeeping. The 12-hour format, 60-minute inner bezel, luminous hands, and oversized date paint the picture. If you’re looking for an affordable big date model from a famous brand, consider the Longines Master.    

8. Breitling Galactic 41 Big Date (ref. A49350)

Starts from approximately $4,280

The Breitling Galactic is for those who genuinely appreciate style and function. It’s galactic or sci-fi-themed, like a device on a spaceship. But it’s practically a simple and user-friendly design. 

First off, the Galactic 41 has a solid 41mm stainless steel case with bold bezel engravings. It’s solidly built from the case back to the protective rim around the crown. 

Secondly, the blue dial is almost plain but sophisticated. The dial has oversized black-and-white stick hour markers and hands for easy reading. And, of course, a large date at 3 o’clock.

As you probably can tell, this watch is clearly built like a tank. A quick look at the bracelet’s build alone reveals that. But even better, it has strap varieties in leather and rubber to one down the look.

A COSC-certified Breitling caliber B49 powers the Galactic 41. That’s 42 hours of power reserve and 300 meters of water resistance. You’ll appreciate the Galactic 41 Big Date for its versatility. It’s perfect for a night out in a suit but also looks terrific with casual attire. 

9. Omega De Ville X2 Big Date (ref. 7813.30.39)

Starts from approximately $4,030

Ever thought of getting an avant-garde timepiece that’s also practical? Look no further than the Omega De Ville X2 Big Date. 

The De Ville is the first watch Omega collection watch equipped with a co-axial escapement. This X2 Big Date houses a modern caliber 2610 with a 48-hour power reserve and tourbillon for greater accuracy. 

But that’s enough beauty to get movement fans going. Now let’s talk about its aesthetic face and strap. Its square-shaped stainless steel case will stand out in the crowd. And it’s only 35mm, which is ironic because it packs a punch considering its movement and large font dial.

Speaking of which, the dial is a classic painting in a frame. The indices have an ingenious combo of a dagger and Roman/Arabic numerals. You’ll also see this number concept in the date window, which is impressive. 

More impressive is how these indices are enlarged out of proportion to its 35mm case. This makes the De Ville X2 an easy watch to read despite being extremely dressy. However, it doesn’t have a lume.    

Regardless, it’s a precision big date dress watch from a respected watchmaker and a respectable collection. 

10. Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec BigDate (ref. 00.10628.13.53.01)

Starts from about $8,600

The tenth big date watch on our list offers some complications you’d appreciate if simple isn’t your vibe. One of the unique complications is its big date aperture at the 11 o’clock position. The window is solid-framed, and the date even has a deeper black font than most grande date models.

In addition, the EvoTec has a small date window at 6 o’clock, which declutters the dial. This makes it even easier to read. Not to mention, the Patravi EvoTec is super-comfortable and dressy.

It sports a blue 39mm stainless case that accentuates the blue dial and blue calfskin strap. And it’s somewhat thick at 13mm, so it’ll also pass for casual wear. It houses an automatic movement with 55 hours of power reserve in its transparent case back.

11. IWC Big Pilot Big Date “150 Years” (ref. IW510504)

Starts from about $14,000

Let’s take a break from sophistication to reintroduce a clean and uncomplicated design – the limited-edition IWC Big Pilot 150 Years. 

It’s a simple but prestigious big date watch. As its name implies, it’s an homage to IWC’s 150th year of watchmaking in 2018. And only 100 pieces of these babies are available (IWC produced 150 pieces, as they should have initially). 

What makes the Big Pilot Date so special? Start with a hand-wound IWC caliber 59235. It’s intriguing that a manual movement powers the double-date display and has an eight-day power reserve.

Now that you know it’s technically capable, we’ll briefly tour its plain white gloss-finished face. The dial is vibrant with a play of Arabic numerals and stick indexes, and blue hour hands.

Top that off with alligator skin leather with metal pins for a bold look. And it’s housed in a massive 46.5mm stainless case. So while this may sound like a perfect watch on paper, the IWC 150 Big Pilot 150 Years would wear more comfortably by tall wearers.

12. Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moon Phase (ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B)

Starts from approximately $14,500

The GP Vintage 1945 is a watch with notes of class, artistry, and masterful engineering; it’s an appealing model for vintage and stylish watch lovers.

The Girard Perregaux Vintage XXL is one of the best picks for the case and large date design. First off, it has a 39mm convex stainless steel case. This means it’s curved at every angle to give a 3D-like look, which is difficult even for a luxury brand.  

The convex profile is a challenging engineering accomplishment only seen in elite luxury brands like Vacheron Constantin. Its polished stainless steel case houses a stunning silver dial with a perfect play on light that gives it a darker shade. 

Under the sapphire crystal are Arabic numeral indexes, a moon phase indicator at the door (6 o’clock), and a grand date below the roof (12 o’clock) of the dial. 

There’s more to GP’s Vintage 1945 big date than meets the eye (for most watch buyers). Its COSC-certified GP03300 caliber delivers unparted date windows on the same plane. This “borderless” design also achieves clear tracks for its railway minute markers. 

Any collector or watch enthusiast will gladly pay 20 grand for the level of attention to detail and durability of the Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL. It’s not shy of daily use and will pass for a regalia timepiece. Furthermore, it will hold its value if you’re a shelf collector. 

13. Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-02-01-04)

Starts from approximately $8,000

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date is a steal-buy for a taste of luxury engineering and embellishment. The first pass you get is into the world of convex lenses and dials.

That’s the same engineering in the 15k GP Vintage 45′ – we reviewed previously – or a 50k Vacheron Constantin Patrimony. Its domed silver dial is unmistakable under the Sixties Panorama’s ultra-slim case and curved sapphire crystal lens.  

Gold-plated hour incisions and hands and four Arabic numerals dissect this Sixties Panorama into four cardinal points. While that’s aesthetically pleasing, it’s the caliber 39-47 and its big date function that births this model’s name. 

The big date changes the date after 24 hours in a cinematic crossover – panorama. Its display discs at 6 o’clock are two concentric plates on the same plane. They achieve the smooth transition that Glashütte calls “panorama.” 

14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date (ref. 5050 12B30 B52A)

Starts from around $18,500 

Blancpain, one of the oldest luxury watchmakers, offers the tanking Fifty Fathoms in a grande date display. Its deep black dial and titanium steel case paired with the sail cloth strap give off a bold image.

In addition, the Super-LumiNova coating on the black background makes it even easier to read in low light.  Trust the Fifty Fathoms to give you the confidence of a tool or dive watch with its thick 43mm titanium case.

It has a unidirectional bezel and up to 300 meters of water resistance. This model features a grande date automatic caliber 6918B. It’s a nice upgrade from the tiny date window of the normal version – about twice the size of the original. 

It makes the $3k price bump worth it if you want the Fifty Fathoms with a large date. It holds value well on the resale market, so it’s also a gratifying investment watch.

15. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Big Date (ref. 49140/423A-8886)

Starts from approximately $20,000

The VC Overseas is a small but intense chronograph with exceptional attention to detail – can’t expect less from a member of the “Holy Trinity.”  

This well-polished chronograph houses a toned black dial with detailed designs in a VC cross-shaped bezel. It has Roman numeral indexes on every hour except the cardinal points. 

The counters flesh out the face as they intertwine with 10th and 2nd-hour markers with minute trackers and dagger hands that look like ties: a small second counter, a 12-hour timer at 9, and a 30-minute counter at 3. 

Finally, the grande date window crowns the dial at 12 thanks to the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1137. It has 40 hours of power reserve and an anti-shock system. 

The Overseas is a luxury sports watch to dress up or down in grand style. Although it can take a beating, it’s not exactly cut out for a tool watch. 

16. Cartier Tortue Large Date Small Seconds (ref. CRW1556233)

Starts from approximately $30,000

Cartier, the world-renowned jeweler of over 170 years, has something in store for historical watch buffs. Its tonneau shape is one of the closest designs to the real thing – The MimoMeter – back in the ’30s. 

The Tortue is one of the rarest big date watches. And its history goes way back to 1912 when Louis Cartier designed it, inspired by the shape of a tortoise. It’s a similar concept to the Cartier Tank. 

It’s a masterful creation and an embodiment of rare luxury. The Tortue Large Date Small Seconds is a self-explanatory design but finer when you look in detail. Start with a luxurious real estate of 18K white gold case with a closed back.  

Moving to the dial, you get a matte silver sheet inside a 38mm fence. It’s embellished with concentric Roman numeral hour indexes and a small second window door at 6.

The big date is square and center at 12. And you get to carry this work of art around in a reptile strap. The Cartier Tortue CRW1556233 is a great fit for professionals in finance, law, or high-class society. 

17. H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD (ref. 3808-1201)

Starts from approximately $35,000

The Pioneer is an ultra-slim 43mm dress big date watch on steroids! The engineering, complications, and aesthetics are detailed to the highest standard. A funky blue fume dial with a sunburst plays light and color tricks in a calm display. It’s a clutter-free display – the stick and dot indexes only indicate ten-minute intervals. 

Actually, the dots are its bezel numbers, so you can imagine how immaculate the MD is. These and the skeleton dagger hands light up even in pitch darkness. 

The world-class watchmaker blows our minds with an HMC 808 movement engine (168-hour reserve). It has a month and date display window at 3, a small seconds window at 6, and a power reserve indicator at 9. 

What’s impressive is how these complications make the HMC Pioneer MD easier to read and adjust. 

This watch would be a great addition to any collection if you can afford it. It can be formal only, casual, or even for adventure. Not to mention, it’s a limited edition model from a renowned brand, so you’re also looking at a great investment watch. 

18. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (ref. 191.039)

Starts from approximately $40,000

With the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, we’ll stray from the conventional. It’s practically a date watch than one for timekeeping. 

A. Lange & Sohne tagged it the “inimitable” dial because of its asymmetric – off-balance – design. Its silver dial is flush with a 38.5mm white gold casing. There’s a 12-hour window in Roman numerals on the left gracefully intertwined with a seconds window below. 

The large date display sits alone in the top-right as the most legible writing on the dial. And for this, we can give credit to L121.1 in-house caliber. 

Knowing how beautiful it is, the brand displays it through its see-through sapphire crystal case back. It’s manually wound, has a 72-hour power reserve, and offers instantaneous date change at midnight.  

The Lange 1 is undeniably one of the most iconic modern watches. It’s a great buy if you want a visible high-end movement with a unique, gorgeous dial and precious metal finish.   

19. Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Large Date Tourbillon (ref. 26009BC.OO.D002CR.01)

Starts from around $70,000

For our second entry from the “Holy Trinity,” we introduce the Edward Piguet Large Date. It’s a masterpiece of horology with a renowned price tag that limits it only to the elite and hardcore watch buffs. 

Who else can appreciate horology enough to pay over 50 grand for a sophisticated big date movement? The Eduard Piguet Large Date has a partial skeleton dial with Roman numeral markers, a tourbillon, and a large date window on a 34mm case.

They complement the dark rhodium-finished 18k white gold case and an alligator strap to add a touch of class. However, the true champion is its tourbillon movement with complications of extreme difficulty that you can even see through the case back. It’s manually wound with up to 72 hours of power reserve.

AP gives you a glimpse of Swiss engineering perfection in the dial and case back. It’s undeniably a statement piece for special occasions but is durable enough for casual wear if you can pull it off.

20. Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5236P)

Starts from around $140,000

What better way than to end our list with the final member of the “Holy Trinity”? The Patek Philippe Grand Complications delivers masterfully on every note of complication, readability, and choice of materials. 

With a 41mm platinum case, we have Patek Philippe’s biggest Perpetual date model. The price is readily justifiable considering the special features of its caliber 31-260 PS QL, like hand-woven engineering, mechanism, and a moon phase. 

The clear winner, though, is the Grand Complications big date. It displays the day, date, and month in the same aperture, which is truly special. But the gradient blue satin-finished dial provides an aesthetic touch that turns heads.

Flip it over, and you’ll still have the movement to yourself through the open case back. The Philippe Patek Grand Complications is finally cased in platinum and has an alligator strap to complete the look. 

21. Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Worldtimer (ref. FC-718NWM4H6)

Starts from $4,695

A name any watch enthusiast should be familiar with, the Classic Worldtimer from Frederique has a sizable date window, to say the least. I gravitated toward this watch because I consider myself to be an avid traveler. It gives me a view of 24 different time zones, and the big date window couldn’t be any more obvious.

It’s a 42mm stainless steel watch, with every part, inside and out, made in Geneva, Switzerland. Most of my collection tends to look pretty neutral compared to this watch, but the intricate design is hard to ignore.

It’s a little over 12mm thick and comes with a 22mm lug width. At a glance, I assumed it was too bulky, but it settled nicely on my wrist. The dial is easily my favorite part, as it embodies the continents across the globe with a deep blue background.

Conclusion

Big date watches are perfect for functionality, style, and precision. Each timepiece caters to watch enthusiasts’ unique needs and preferences, with features like high-quality materials, intricate designs, and precise timekeeping mechanisms. 

From sporty and casual to elegant and formal, these timepieces offer versatility and sophistication. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, you’ll find an affordable and functional model that catches your eye.

The venerable and humble Valjoux 7750 is the widespread beating heart of many self-winding-chronograph watches. As a result of groundbreaking engineering, it has proven to be an immortal movement that is easy to service, reliable, accurate, universally sized, heavily modifiable, and even cloned by movement manufacturer Sellita to make the SW-500 (to meet the demand for non-ETA exclusive watchmakers).

The 7750 is the world’s most popular self-winding-chronograph movement, still very relevant today under the arm of ETA; the Valjoux 7750 has been the horological lifeblood of many brands since before and after the Quartz crisis – thus enabling a formidable comeback from the mechanical watch industry due to its allure as an affordable well-designed platform that allowed for many complications and levels of finishing to be offered by its adopters. We are excited to discuss 15 of the best Valjoux 7750 watches that you can get your hands on today.

About The Valjoux 7750

The race from many tycoons in the watch industry to invent the first self-winding chronograph made 1969 a revolutionary year for watchmaking. The Calibre-11 was the first to achieve this status, a manifestation of a collaboration between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and chronograph specialist Dépraz & Co., followed by Seiko with the 6139 and Zenith with the over-engineered and rather excellent El Primero; all simultaneous releases within the year. 

The age of the self-winding chronograph had begun, and Valjoux took notice, seeking to offer such technology in vast numbers. The manual-wind Valjoux 7733 was the foundation; a young Edmon Capt was tasked with turning it into a self-winding chronograph.

With a tight development timeline, the Valjoux 7750 would be the first movement to have its workings simulated on a computer and would go on sale in 1973 amidst the Quartz crisis. It proved popular, selling in 6-figure numbers but would soon be impacted by rapidly dying sales due to the Quartz and digital watch market craze – at its peak in 1975. 

Similar to the fate of the El Primero, Valjoux’s senior management ordered the destruction of machinery, drawings, and tooling for the 7750 – an order which Edmon Capt chose to disobey and was thereby able to find means of protecting his creation for a brighter, longer future. 

Following Valjoux’s consolidation by ETA in the 80s, mechanical watches finally saw a revival of interest. This allowed for the return of the 7750, which required little to no reworking since its inception. Affordable, serviceable, reliable, universally sized, and modifiable, it became the popular choice for many brands in recovery, dawning on a renaissance of mechanical watchmaking.  

The Valjoux 7750 movement architecture utilized levers and an oblong-shaped cam which was easier to mass-manufacture than its column wheel-operated cousins. It also used a unidirectional winding rotor that allowed for faster winding and no dead zone in rotor movement, with the winding system always engaged. 

Its notorious quirk was its rotor wobble. Here we have an industrial movement at 7.9mm thick, with a self-winding chronograph, hacking seconds, compatible with a date and day wheel, available and affordable for many watch manufacturers to adopt rather than an engineer on their own at great expense.

/ETA also offered more complicated versions of the 7750, like the 7751, which had a full calendar and moon-phase display, and a 7753 with the sub-dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than a vertical layout. 

Due to its modifying potential, some movement specialists chose to incorporate a column wheel mechanism, which proved less expensive than acquiring a movement developed to incorporate one. IWC also took a liking to the movement, and Kurt Klaus used it as a base for what would become the legendary Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in 1985. 

Its success with IWC didn’t end, as Richard Habring followed suit by creating a split-seconds chronograph out of the 7750 that would eventually be turned into the 125th anniversary Destriero Scafusia. This grand complication combined a split-seconds-chronograph, flying tourbillion, and minute repeater. 

ETA also went on to devise its own version of a column wheel controlled 7550, which was the Longines Caliber-L688, which Omega later used as its base for the Co-Axial Caliber-3300. All of this is a testament to the 7750’s wide and favored adoption to date.

The Best Valjoux 7750 Watches

Tissot PRX Chronograph (ref. T137.427.11.041.00) (Valjoux A05.H31, based on the Valjoux 7753)

Under the current premise that the watch world is notoriously hyped for integrated bracelet luxury sports watches, Tissot has been widely recognized for positioning its PRX lineup as a budget-friendly alternative. Its cohesive case and bracelet design, adding to that a lineage dating back to the original era in the 70s, has made the PRX the prime choice for watch enthusiasts wanting to enjoy high horology levels of design. 

In 2022, Tissot was able to offer the PRX Chronograph with the proven Valjoux 7753 seen through its display caseback, with a 60hr power reserve, the classic 3, 6, and 9 o’clock chronograph layout, a date between 4 and 5 o’clock, 100m water resistance and a 2-year warranty. 

Available in 3 sunburst dial variations blue, white with blue subdials, and white with black subdials and gilt indices/hands. Priced at $1,825 on a quick-release interchangeable steel bracelet.

Sized at 42mm in diameter and 14.5 millimeters thick, with an overall brushed finish and polishing on its case flanks, sloping bezel, pushers, and crown; and the availability of panda-esque Royal Oak Chronograph inspired dial configurations to make this a very stylish and wearable sports watch, in addition to its great value offering.

Omega Speedmaster Date 40 (ref. 3210.50.00) (Omega Caliber 1164, based on the Valjoux 7750)

For those that desire the storied heritage of the greatest journey of mankind, and a budget-friendly smaller Moonwatch, with self-winding, a date complication, and most importantly, 100m of water resistance, look no further than this watch.

The Speedmaster Date 40 is an offering that punches hard above its weight class, housing the Chronometer Certified Caliber 1164 based on the 7750 with a 44hr power reserve. 40mm in diameter and 15.2mm thick, the Speedmaster Date 40 lends a few design elements of the Speedmaster Professional (1861).

These include an identically-finished lyre lug case profile and bracelet design, a tachymeter bezel that comes in black anodized aluminum, and a double-finished black dial with a metallic grain at the center. Alongside these are appliqué indices and the Omega logo, a vertical subdial layout as a result of its 7750 movement architecture, and a frame around the date window.

This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of $3,500. It is half the price of the current Speedmaster Professional and, therefore, an incredible value alternative due to its 7750-based caliber, making it better sized for smaller wrists, with added functionality to boot.

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H (ref. H38429730) (Hamilton H-51 movement based on the ETA/Valjoux caliber 7753)

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H is a modern remaster of the original 1968 model, with promising potential to retain the elegance of its predecessors and none of the drawbacks associated with wearing a vintage piece. As of 2021, the Intra-Matic Chronograph received further refinement, now offered in 40mm with a manual-wind movement allowing for a marginally slimmer case (0.3mm) than its automatic counterpart. 

By doing away with the hand-wound movement, this model offers further interaction and feeling for the vintage enthusiast it targets. This also allows it to have a flatter case back and less clearance between the dial and the domed sapphire, leaning onto a much cleaner overall aesthetic.

The Intra-Matic uses the 7753 for a simple classic dual subdial layout with no date. It comes in two vintage-inspired panda-dial variants; a plain black dial with off-white subdials or an off-white dial with black subdials and faux patina lume on its hands and indexes. 

With a two-year warranty, 100m water resistance, and a 60hr power reserve, priced at $2,045 on a leather ($2,095 on a Milanese bracelet), this is a truly authentic vintage chronograph experience to be enjoyed at an affordable price point, with modern-day conveniences.

Breitling Navitimer (ref. A2332212/C586) (Breitling B23 movement, based on the Valjoux 7753)

Following the post-war commercial aviation boom, the Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association pressured Brietling to create the Navitimer in 1952, now a monumental model in its lineup. With the help of the then-revolutionary slide rule bezel, the Navitimer became the first flight calculator, calibrated for all necessary flight calculations, such as ground speed, airspeed, drift, rate of climb, and fuel consumption. Not limited to the sky, it could also convert miles to kilometers, Fahrenheit to Celsius, or dollars to euros.

The Navitimer (ref. A2332212/C586) produced between 2003-2011, with a practical 41.8mm diameter and 14.6mm case, used the 7753 as a base for its 42hr COSC-Certified Movement. This model was offered in a deep navy blue, as well as black or white dial variations with the typical 3 subdial layout thanks to the architecture of the 7753, and a date complication between 4 and 5 o’clock. 

It was originally priced at $9,000 on a bracelet and is currently up to $6,000 on the secondary market. Its availability is a true testament to the vast takeover of the 7750/7753 base. As the Navitimer in 1969 was one of the first watches to house an automatic chronograph caliber, it needed to come full circle to adopt the Valjoux for the sake of its own survival.

Tissot Heritage 1973 (ref. T124.427.16.051.00) (A05.H31 movement based on the Valjoux 7753)

During the 70s, Tissot featured as a sponsor in F1, with Swiss ambassador and Brabham driver Lorris Kessel. Back then, he wore the Navigator 1973, a watch designed during the golden age of motorsport, when racing drivers needed timing instruments on their wrists. 

In 2019, Tissot celebrated its racing history with the revival of the Navigator, releasing the Heritage 1973, a modern interpretation of the original, limited to 1,973 pieces. Following this, they released a second iteration in 2021 as a mainstay in the collection, offered in 3 color variants, those being white, blue, or black.

Aesthetically belonging to the exclusive club of the 70s-inspired vintage racing chronographs, it sports a modern-sized 43mm cushion-shaped case with satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels, mushroom-style pushers, and a perforated leather strap (invented by Tissot in 1975). 

The dial is also changed from the original, now with the sub-dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than a vertical layout, and a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, thanks to the layout of the 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback) with a 60hr power reserve.

Carried forward from the original is the panda color dial configuration, with pops of 70s orange, and exclusive to the newest model, a minor touch of bright blue on the 30-minute elapsed counter between 0 and 5. It has a domed sapphire crystal, unlike the acrylic of the original. Priced at $2,175, with a two-year warranty and 100m water resistance, the Heritage-1973 has all the hallmarks of a great vintage racing watch revival.

IWC Pilot Top Gun (ref. IW3891-01) (IWC Caliber 69380, based on The Valjoux 7750)

IWC was an early pioneer in developing timekeeping instruments that catered to the needs of aviators. Its first Pilots Chronographs, often referred to as the ‘Flieger Chronographs’ were launched in 1988, including a self-winding model that housed a caliber based on the 7750. Decades later, still proving to be up to the task.

The Top Gun collection has been an integral part of IWC’s Pilot watch lineup since 2007, flexing its usage of advanced materials and giving them a distinctive tactical look and feel. 

To celebrate its close association with naval aviation, in 2019, we saw the release of the IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun IW3891-01, still using a heavily modified column wheel chronograph movement based on the 7750 and still adopting the 3 vertical subdial layouts and a day/date window at 3 o’clock, that the model is famous for.

This model features a 44.5mm diameter black ceramic case on a black textile strap, a matching matte black dial with concentric grooves visible on the subdials, a matte black hour and minute hands, and a black day & date window. It has contrasting white Arabic indices, markings, lume, and chronograph seconds hand, with a pop of red on the running second’s hand. 

Attached to the case are brushed steel pushers and a screw-in-crown allowing for 60m of water resistance. Priced at $8,950, this watch is a proven icon with looks ready for any dogfight.

TAG Heuer Carrera (ref. CBK2110.BA0715) (Caliber 16, based on the Valjoux 7750)

The Carrera is easily one of the most iconic racing chronographs to date, with a rich and storied history dating back to the 60s and 70s when Heuer was at the helm of racing timekeeping instruments. Post Quartz crisis, the Carrera was brought back by Tag Heuer in 1996, a mainstay in their collection since 2006, and it adopted the Caliber 16 (42hr power reserve) based on the 7750. 

Unlike the original Carrera that featured the first self-winding chronograph movement (Calibre 11), it would now adopt 3 vertical subdials with a date window at 3 o’clock as a result of its movement based on the 7750 (visible through a transparent caseback), with a 42-hour power reserve.

The CBK2110.BA0715 features a matte black dial with polished hands, indexes, a frame around the date window, and an applied Tag Heuer logo. This particular reference had its own time in the spotlight, worn by Kevin Bacon in the movie ‘You Should Have Left (2020)’.

Not owing too much to its racing history, it leans more towards elegance than sportiness, striking a good balance for daily wear with its high finish (41mm) case and bracelet and 100m water resistance. This model is currently discontinued and had an original retail price of $4,600. Secondary market prices can be found up to approximately $4000, depending on the condition.

Longines Master Collection Complete Calendar Chronograph (ref. L2.773.4.78.5) (Caliber L687.2 based on the Valjoux 7751)

The Master Collection, launched in 2005, pays tribute to Longines’ rich heritage in traditional and classical watchmaking. The halo model of the collection, the Complete Calendar Chronograph Moonphase, offers high complication at a value focussed price point. 

This is done with the help of a movement based on the 7751(visible through its transparent caseback, with a 48hr power reserve), a multifunctional caliber based on the 7750. Adding complications such as a full moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, a central pointer date hand pointing at the date on the outer periphery of the dial, day of the week and month windows at 12 o’clock, and a 24-hour hand at 9 o’clock.

It features a classic high-polish 40mm case with a rounded bezel and soft lines, overall contributing to a dressier feel and doing well to mask its high complication caliber. It has ‘old world’ looking pushers and a stamped crown. The dial is clean and uncluttered in silver barleycorn, with a stamped Clous de Paris style guilloché on the main level and concentric grooves on the subdials.

It has blued legible hands and vintage-style Arabic numerals printed well enough to look applied. Priced at $3,550 on a brown alligator strap with a luxurious twin trigger deployant clasp. For those seeking a complication dress watch on a budget, Longines is well-calibrated to deliver high sophistication and refinement.

Hublot Big Bang (ref. 301.SX.130.RX) (Caliber HUB4100, based on the Valjoux 7753)

The launch of the Big Bang in 2005 marked the rebirth of Hublot under Jean-Claude Bivers’ leadership. With the 7753-based 42hr power reserve workhorse movement (visible through its transparent caseback), and quite a bit of hype (or incredible marketing), it could compete with the greats from which it took inspiration. 

Given the high horology inspiration, and Art of Fusion Concept, the Big Bang appears to have all the necessary hallmarks of a niche high-end timepiece while having a strikingly modern, sporty, and racy design language.

The 301.SX.130.RX has a 44mm case with contrasting satin-brushed and polished surfaces. It sports a sandwich construction with composite inserts at the sides to give an architectural look. Polished finishing continues on the crown and pushers with rubber outboard.

Rubber is also used for the strap, Hublot being the early pioneer of using the sporty material on a luxury sports watch. Its bezel, inspired by the porthole of a submarine, is satin and highly polished with distinctive Hublot H-sectioned screws.

To complete its look, we have a matte black dial with polished appliqué indices and hands (lumed) and a contrasting red chronograph seconds hand, minute/seconds track, and subdial track for the minutes and hours. It retains the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock layout of the 7753 with a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Priced at $12,900 retail, and approximately $8,500 pre-owned, it is a 100m waterproof luxury sports watch that still compares well against its highly-praised cousins who might not share the same specifications, price point, or sporty design.

Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope (ref. 27/4008.02) (J880.2 movement based on the Valjoux 7750)

The German watchmaker, Junghans, is popularly known for its commitment and genuine history with the Bauhaus design language. An artistic ideology that form follows function. Max Bill, a Swiss artist and former student of Bauhaus in Dessau 1927-1929, was tasked by Junghans to create a collection of watches in 1961 of Bauhaus influence, following the great success of its Max Bill kitchen clock.

The Design of the Max Bill Chronoscope carries forward its design language from the 60s as a modern offering, housing a movement based on the 7750 with a 42hr power reserve. Its 40mm almost pebble-shaped steel case is coated in matte anthracite PVD, has short lugs (which makes it very wearable), uses piston-style pushers, and has a thin bezel offering a generous view of its matte white dial.

It ditches the running seconds for just two vertically aligned subdials for symmetry. Grey is used for the minute/seconds track and subdials markings, with black environmentally friendly lumed Arabic numerals that match the font of Max Bill’s original kitchen clock. We also have matte black hands, with the hours and minutes being curved and lumed.

At 3 o’clock are two beveled apertures for the day and date, and for symmetry at 9 o’clock, its name is inscribed on the dial. Another compliment to its dial and case design is the usage of a domed sapphire. Priced at $2095, unhindered by any ornamentation, it is a minimalist, functional, and legible chronograph that stands on its own in the market.

Sinn 103 St Sa (ref. 103.061) (Valjoux 7750)

German tool-watchmaker Sinn is a fan favorite for its profound dedication to making pilots watches. Founder Helmut Sinn himself was a former World War II pilot and used his experience in aviation to manufacture clocks and pilot’s chronographs.

The Sinn 103 Pilots Chronograph carries its design from the golden age of pilot watches in the 60s when the original 103 saw its release. With the dawn of the Quartz Crisis, this humble period would induce harmony among watchmakers, who would share or purchase components from each other.

Hence, this is why the original 103 shares the same case and many components with the original LeCoultre, Brequet, Mathey-Tissot, and Breguet models from the era. The Sinn 103 as we know it today was remastered in 1993, with an automatic chronograph caliber based on the robust 7750 (48 hours power reserve).

The Sinn 103 St Sa has a high polish 41mm case with a thickness of 17.2mm. It does well to mask its thickness with its sloping lugs and rounded display case back. Using the 7750 vertical 3 subdial layout and a day/date window at 3 o’clock, it has a lumed dial in solid black with contrasting white Arabic numerals, markings, and hands (syringe style for the minutes and hours).

Complementing the dial is a domed ‘sapphire crystal’ (unlike on standard 103 models). It has attractive screw-in pushers like those found on a Daytona and a ratcheting anodized black unidirectional diving bezel with a triangular loom pip at 0.

One of the most notable features of this model as a chronograph is its impeccable water resistance of 200m. Priced at approximately $2,700 on a solid end-link bracelet, this is a proven feature-packed, legible, and timeless design built like a tank for the cockpit.

Damasko DC56 Black (Valjoux 7750 Elaboré)

Damasko, formed in 1994, is a relatively young German tool-watch manufacturer with a history of developing high-performance materials and technology for the aviation industry and hardened watchcases for Sinn until 2002. 

Catered to innovating in-house with new materials and processes, its main focus is to be affordable while engineering the toughest tool-watches on the market. A testament to its capabilities, its DC56 would go on to being the official watch of German Eurofighter Pilots since 2007.

The DC56 Black is simply put, a blacked out version of the standard model. It has a Black Damest-Coated, Ice-hardened steel case, 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of only 13.8mm; such tight tolerances are difficult to find from a brawn tool-watch housing the tall 7750 caliber (48hr-power-reserve). 

Attached to its muscular profiled case are matching black pushers with a crown guard perfectly integrating to SR71Blackits sharp lugs. It has a 7750 layout matte black dial with contrasting white hands, Arabic numerals, date/date display, and generous usage of lume on the hands and numerals, making for impeccable legibility.

To match perfectly with its case and dial, it comes on a tumbled calfskin leather strap with contrasting white stitching. Priced at $2,100, this is a refreshingly new take on a tool watch without history to hold Damasko back from creating this monster of a watch.

Tissot Telemeter 1938 (ref. T142.462.16.032.00) (A05.231 movement based on the Valjoux 7753)

In 2022 Tissot added to its trending heritage collection with the launch of the ‘Telemeter 1938’, a watch that takes inspiration deep from its archives in the late 1930s. It would feature a chronograph complication, with a telemeter scale that can be used to calculate distance based on time, using a movement based on the 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback), giving it a bicompax layout, and a 68hr power reserve.

As an attribute to the large but proven movement, it has a case diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 14mm, making it a wearable yet sporty classic dress watch on an embossed tapering leather strap with a deployment clasp. Its case design features fully polished surfaces, curved lugs, nearly vertical case flanks,  a sloping bezel, a signed crown (allowing for 30m water resistance), and oval pushers, enabling easy functionality. 

The best aspect of this model is its remastered telemeter dial, offered in two variants; a gloss black with gilt indices/markings/hands or a more legible silver dial with blue, red, and black printed markings/indices and contrasting blued hands. Priced at $1,950, this is a fine novelty from Tissot that combines old-world looks with modern-day functionality.

Oris Artelier Chronograph (ref. 01 676 7603 4054-07 5 22 71FC) (Oris Caliber 676, based on the 7753)

The Artelier collection is where Oris continues to push contemporary design while leaning towards a dressier aesthetic from the brand. The Oris Artelier Chronograph does just that by encompassing daring and elegant design traits while relying on the capable 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback, with a 44hr power reserve) to offer us an affordable yet high-finish complication dress watch.

Among many others that use the Valjoux base, this is also a complicated dress watch with sportier dimensions. It features a 43.5mm high polish case with long lugs and a rounded bezel. Attached to its case are unique mushroom pushers and a large knurled crown (offering 30m water resistance). 

Continuing the polished aesthetic is a predominantly shiny guilloche grey dial and subdials (3, 6, and 9 o ‘clock layout), with  black contrasts for legibility, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and polished, sharp-looking indices/hands.

Optional is a multilink bracelet (as opposed to calfskin leather), which cohesively compliments the sporty yet elegant design of the watch. This model is now discontinued and was priced at under $3,000 retail.

Hamilton Pan Europ Auto Chrono (ref. H35756755) (Caliber H31, based on the 7753)

The Hamilton Pan Europ has a significant history with relevance to the self-winding chronograph movement. The original housed the iconic first self-winding movement, the Caliber 11, only to follow up nearly half a century later with its re-release, made possible with the usage of a caliber based on the 7753 (with 60 hr power reserve).

As with many heritage remakes using a modern caliber, the Pan Europ Chrono now features a modern-sized case measuring 45mm, with a thickness of 15mm (with 100m water resistance). Maintained is the original aesthetic in the form of its design; its case features a cushion shape in a satin finish with polished bevels accentuating its curves. 

Attached to the case are polished pump pushers and a polished, signed crown at 3 o’clock rather than 9. Feature-packed for its time, it features a handy unidirectional turning bezel finished in anodized black. The dial layout is also faithful to the original, with a bicompax layout, and a date window at 6 o’clock to make for good symmetry and legibility. 

Available in a choice of black or silver dials, it adopts a high-contrast look, with red subdial and chronograph hands adding a pop of color and a sense of speed. This model is now discontinued, with an original retail price of approximately $1,950. It is a sensibly designed modern throwback with specifications to rival watches nearly twice its price point.

Conclusion

As the movement that democratized the self-winding chronograph for everyday people to afford, the modern watch industry would look very different without the Valjoux 7750 caliber. It has had a significant impact on the appreciation and widespread adoption of mechanical complications through the most difficult times into the current era, which appreciates this pursuit as an art form. 

Today the Valjoux 7750 is referred to as the ETA 7750 and has become increasingly exclusive to brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. While it still offers great value and is an important part of the lineage of many iconic models, its dependability has forced other manufacturers to clone the complication for its continued usage. Half a century since its inception, it is still considered an engineering marvel of significant importance to the watch industry.

The panda dial first caught my eye on a Seinfeld episode. Jerry wore a Breitling Chronomat with a reverse panda dial. The dial and “rouleax” were on full display as he talked over a cup of coffee.

But luxury watches with black-on-white or white-on-black dial designs reigned long before Seinfeld and are back to stay. As you probably know, they are named after the cute and clumsy Panda bear. There’s no telling who named it, but it’s clearly a befitting name for the design. 

Take a stroll back in time with me as we trace its origins to the 60s. And enter the moment with a list of 15 adorable panda dial watches in 2023.

History of The Panda Dial on Watches

The panda dial was a trend that took off in the 1960s, but its origin is unknown. However, most enthusiasts attribute its origin to the king, the Rolex Daytona. While there’s some truth to that, it’s technically not factual.

The earliest known panda dial is Breitling’s original 1957 Superocean. But it was a reverse panda dial.  White-on-black dial chronographs only took off after the Rolex Daytona 6239 hit the market in 1963. With its success, top luxury watchmakers released panda dial versions of their favorite timepieces. 

Maybe it was too cute to resist, or their designers just wanted a share of this new market–we’ll never know! Ultimately though, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6239 is the first known pure panda dial (white dial with black sub-dials). 

Breitling released its first true panda dial in 1964, TAG Heuer (Carrera) in 1968, and Zenith’s El Primero in 1969 was the first multi-colored version.

Design That Pops

There’s a saying that people buy with emotions, not reason. Sure, there are features you may love, but you eventually purchase an item based on how it makes you feel. This can’t be any truer with the panda dial. Watch enthusiasts love the dial for its name, look, and how it’s a surefire way to show off a chronograph. 

The panda has no special features except for the watchmaker’s complication for that model. That’s why it’s a timeless style. You can buy a “nameless” brand, wear a quartz watch, and still enjoy the black-and-white appeal. 

Choosing one boils downs to your budget and level of craftsmanship on the dial, first of all. Then your choice of strap material, movement complications, or bezel design is at the heart of it. Fortunately, our extensive list cuts across many options to meet your taste. 

Types of Panda Dial Watches

As you may have noticed earlier from the history of panda dials, it’s not exclusive to the typical white-and-black color combination. Here are three types of panda dials you’ll come across. 

1. True Panda Dial 

True to the face of the Chinese panda, true panda dial watches have a white dial and two or three black sub-dials. 

2. Reverse Panda Dial

It’s a watch with the reverse of a pure panda dial – a black main dial with white sub-dials. And it can be a non-black-and-white color scheme. But they are also available in several combinations, like Zenith’s El Primero, with gold dial and black sub-dials. 

3. Multi-colored Panda Dial 

The multicolored or tri-colored panda dial has a single-colored base dial with sub-dials in multiple colors. Zenith originated this style with its 1969 El Primero models with a white background and subdials in three colors. The tri-colored A386’s sub-dials were silver, black, and blue. 

The 15 Panda Dial Watches Worth Buying in 2023

Here’s my selection of the best panda dial watches on the market. Some are iconic chronographs from celebrated brands, and a few are innovative quartz timepieces for the budget-conscious enthusiast.

1. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Starts from approximately $14,000 

The Daytona line (past and present) includes some of the rarest watches worldwide. For one, Paul Newman’s Paul Newman Daytona (ref. 6239) is the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction. 

The original series from the 60s had four-digit serial numbers and are the pioneer panda dial watches. They were hand-wound and had solid sub-dial colors, unlike the modern Daytona editions. You’ll spend no less than $100,000 on a vintage Daytona. 

However, modern Daytonas, like the ref.116500, sport a less prominent panda design. The sub-dials are less pronounced because only their outer tracks have a contrasting color. But pricier models like the 116528 feature the solid panda face we’d love to see in a yellow-gold case. 

It’s not just the technical and artistic prowess that makes the Daytona special. Wearing one with a panda dial also puts you in the one percent of collectors and enthusiasts. 

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 26331ST.OO.1220ST.03

Starts from approximately $46,000

The Royal Oak is arguably one of the greatest luxury sports watches for men. And its panda dial version is no different when you consider the level of attention to detail in crafting it. 

The iconic “Grand Tapisserie” embossing on its silver-white dial is only found in AP Royal Oaks. There’s also an artistic spiral pattern on the blackened sub-registers you’d only see from brands like AP and GP.

Since the panda dial is only a look, there’s plenty more to stare at if you’re prepared to whip out the cash. The Royal Oak also has white-gold applied hour markers and a 41mm scratch-proof octagonal stainless steel with a brush finish that’s a beauty in the eye of the beholder and onlookers. 

The pushers are carved in a matching octagonal style and are level with the screw-locked crown. Audemars Piguet provides matching Royal Oak cufflinks to rock your timepiece like royalty to top off the look. 

3. Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0118221G1P1)

Starts from approximately $8,750

Breitling Chronographs got me enchanted when I first saw Jerry wearing the Chronomat and Navitimer. But I thought the latter was quite oversized. Breitling provides solace, though, in the Premier B01 chronograph AB0118221G1P1. It’s the polar opposite with a sleek 42mm stainless steel case and “true” panda dial. 

The bi-compax – only two subdials – panda dial is simple yet handsome. Its contrast of black and white and subtle red on the inner bezel is refreshing. Although some enthusiasts may wish it was more clutter-free. 

The B01’s sleek old-school stopwatch-like crown and pushers have the graceful low-key look of a sports watch. Perhaps even a dress watch. The two rectangular pushers stay flush on the same line as the crown.  With the absence of a bezel, you’ll appreciate the discreet push-down buttons even more.

4. Omega Speedmaster Pulsometer (ref. CK2998)

Starts from approximately $7,000

CK2998 is a vintage Omega Speedmaster from 1959 and the first Omega in space. Omega re-introduced this classic in a stunning panda dial and aesthetic leather strap. It’s set in a 39mm case with three subdials.

This rare panda dial watch is limited to only 2,998 pieces. It’s powered by a manual winding movement and has a rare pulsometer, which completes its vintage status. The pulsometer – used to check heartbeats per minute – is inscribed onto its black ceramic bezel. 

On the contrary, Omega beautifully signs the limited edition number on the CK2998’s case back. It’s like a certificate of its exclusivity. 

With this status and design, the Moonwatch Pulsometer is one of the best panda dial chronographs within the $10k range. It has all the requirements for a good resale: scarcity, value, and demand. 

5. Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival

Starts from approximately: $7,000

The Zenith El Primero is one of the more manly chronographs with a panda dial. Its tonneau shape – rectangular with rounded edges – case wears well as a bold sporty, or dressy watch. But even more impressive is how it encircles the white-lacquered panda dial and black tachymeter in a 37mm darkened steel case. 

Like the Omega Moonwatch, the A384 (Ref 03.A384.400) Revival is a modern remake of the vintage A317. It was Zenith’s first steel watch to use the El Primero high-frequency automatic caliber from 1969. 

You’ll experience the El Primero movement sweeping across the lacquered dial at 36,000 beats per minute for 50 hours non-stop. Not to forget the ladder bracelet originally produced by legendary watch designer Gay Freres. It’s a relatively slim-profile and lightweight strap with a classic stamped clasp. 

6. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

Starts from approximately $5,450

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is a great panda dial chronograph for hobbyists and followers of new-school tool watches. 

Released in 2021, the Black Bay Chrono M79360 offers both original and reverse panda dials and a few strap attachments. The M79360 has two “panda eyes” at (3 and 9 o’clock) a tachymeter scale, and trademark Tudor indexes and hands. 

This model has a stainless steel bracelet, but you can get black fabric and leather options. It packs a ton of value with the features it offers at its price point.

A COSC-certified Omega or Rolex with 70 hours of power reserve, chronograph, lume, and tachymeter will cost a few more thousand. Not to mention its five-year guarantee coverage. Plus, it sports a vintage Daytona look that will pass as a budget alternative.

7. TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback (ref. CBE511B.FC8279)

Starts from approximately $6,750

The Autavia Flyback panda is the third release from TAG Heuer’s 60th anniversary. It came in after the Black edition with a refreshing gray dial and multicolored panda. 

The bold design includes black subdials and a silver window at 6 o’clock. Complete with a sporty screw-down crown and chronograph pushers. The Autavia Flyback is even more beautiful at night when the SuperLuminova-applied hands and Arabic numerals light up. 

This model is the perfect everyday watch. While the 42mm Flyback Chronometer looks oversized, it’s considerably lightweight. 

But the real magic of this watch lies in its performance. Its COSC-certified movement is a powerhouse with a power reserve of up to 80 hours and is made in-house. It also has a trademark flyback function to set and reset the stopwatch with a single button. 

Also, if you’re a fan of the exhibition-style casebacks, Tag Heuer Autavia has one for you. And the Flyback movement is one beauty to behold. Overall, though, this model with a panda dial is a great option if you’re looking for a masterful combination of style and function. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary (ref. 3569.31.00)

Starts from approximately $16,950

The Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI is another panda dial on the list celebrating one of humankind’s greatest achievements – the moon landing. And what better honor than to use one of the most iconic dials of the 60s. 

Its panda dial has a clean, artistic silvered white background and three close-knitted subdials. Flip the watch, and you’ll be greeted with a colorful Bald Eagle soaring over the moon on its case back. It’s the original Apollo XI mission patch. 

And, of course, the robust stainless steel case and tachymeter scale Speedmaster fans have adored for decades. 

Powering the watch is an in-house Omega 1861 movement with a decent 40-hour reserve and 21,600 beats per minute. What’s interesting, though, is that caliber 1861 is an evolution of the 861s from the original Moonwatch models. 

Get a Speedmaster Apollo XI 35th Anniversary if you love timeless, exclusive watches. Each watch is even inscribed with a number to prove its exclusivity. 

9. Girard Perregaux Laureato Chronograph (ref. 81020-11-131-11A)

Starts from approximately $5,000

This GP Laureato 42mm carries an astoundingly stunning panda dial! But its beauty goes beyond the panda dial for a watch with craftsmanship similar to the Patek Philippe Nautilus and AP Royal Oak. Firstly, the Laueato’s dial is a Clous De Paris guilloche with small pyramid-like knobs, also seen in brands like Patek Philippe and Breguet. 

Secondly, it’s clothed in a unique octagonal 904L – contains high chromium – case with sublime scratch resistance. Or simply, wear the Laureato in an 18-carat pink gold case. If you pay attention to the detailing on your watches, you’ll appreciate the contrasting polished finish on the bezel and pushers. 

The GP Laureato is also incredibly comfortable to wear with its matching integrated 904L steel bracelet. It’s unsurprisingly one of the best luxury sports watches from this decade. 

Girard Perregaux Laureato uses an in-house GP03300 automatic movement with 48 hours of power reserve. Interestingly but unsurprising, it’s also gem-studded with 63 jewels, so you can bet it’ll run for generations. This chronograph is perfect if you want a panda dial chronograph at the top of your collection. 

10. Bremont ALT1-C

Starts from approximately $6,295

A two-face panda dial, the ALT1-C is another classic masterpiece worth your time. Its timeless design dates back to military use as a pilot watch. Its panda design speaks for itself with contrasting white-on-black backgrounds and subdials facilitating easy reading. 

Although I prefer Arabic numeral indexes on a dial, Bremont replacing them with stick indexes gives the dial a clean, minimalist look. Not to mention that they’re in-laid with Super Luminova, which provides it with a pristine look in the dark. 

What’s more, the ALT1-C’s 43mm satin-finished case complements the overall look of the dial perfectly. The case is missing a functional bezel-like tachymeter, but this actually makes it a dressier option.

And its see-through case back exhibits the Caliber 13 BE-50AE with 25 jewels and 42 hours of power reserve. Like most top-tier watches on our list within its price range, the Caliber 13 is a highly accurate and reliable movement. And it has a COSC certification as proof of quality. 

Ultimately, the Bremont ALT1-C is a relatively average chronograph in this review. But that means it’s durable, accurate, and a beautiful panda watch.

11. Montblanc Timewalker (ref. 118490)

Starts from approximately $5,400

Again, I’m a big fan of dials with Arabic numerals, and hopefully, there’s a comrade who also sees this beauty. 

If not, you can consider the Montblanc Timewalker as a budget alternative to the Omega Apollo XI. Although you won’t enjoy the prestige of the Moonwatch or its Apollo XI medallion, you’ll save over $10,000 and get an equally beautiful panda dial. 

This Timewalker model is a solid 43mm timepiece with high-quality materials like a ceramic bezel and solid stainless steel build. It runs on a Richemont ValFleurier – a respected Swiss movement maker – caliber 25.10. A powerful self-winding column wheel movement with 46 hours of power reserve. 

I’ll recommend the Montblanc Timewalker 118490 for a watch enthusiast who values quality and economy over prestige in a panda dial watch.

12. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

Starts from approximately $2,000

I’ve always had a soft spot for Hamilton watches, and the Intra-Matic Auto is no different from its vintage-inspired design to its reliable movement. 

The Intra-Matic Auto has a classic look reminiscent of the 60s and is a remake of a 1968 signature piece. While you can’t help but appreciate its distinctive two-eyed panda, you’d love the classic dial even more. 

Its internal bezel fills the “empty” appeal of the polished case and pushers. The calf leather strap is eye candy and develops a unique shine as you break it in. 

And if you cherish movement engineering, you’d be proud of its H-31 movement. It displays great attention to detail and craftsmanship for its price with features like a column wheel mechanism, a monobloc rotor, and perlage on the main plate. 

For the more casual enthusiasts, this translates into reliable 60 hours of power reserve and steady accuracy of +/-30 seconds a day. The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a great pick for a retro-watch lover gunning for a complete vintage panda on a budget. 

13. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813P1

Starts from approximately $680

The Seiko Speedtimer SS813 is the most affordable panda dial chronograph with some interesting features to boot.

Arguably its standout feature is its solar-powered movement. A solar ring on the edge of the dial charges the movement, which means the watch can run forever without a battery change or winding. Actually, it has a power reserve of up to six months.

Although touted as “cheap” by hardcore watch enthusiasts, a solar chronograph is an innovative, practical, and eco-friendly feature newbie watch enthusiasts love. 

The SSC813’s panda dial is a change from what we’ve sear. The hazy look of its finish has a striking contrast against the black bezel that can grow on you. And there’s the case and bracelet with the famous Seiko hairline and brush finish, which even quartz haters respect. 

14. Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph (ref. T1374271101100)

Starts from approximately $5,200

The Tissot PRX is a GP Laureato lookalike that’s functional enough to be a budget alternative to the $18,000 powerhouse. 

Now, don’t expect to see the level of craftsmanship of the Laureato, like the guilloche-patterned dial, in the PRX. But you’ll get a 42mm clean satin-finished octagonal-cased timepiece with a lovely panda dial. 

It moves away from the conventional green ta blue-colored SuperLuminova hands and indexes. What’s more, the Tissot PRX has an integrated-like bracelet with quick release. However, it doesn’t have micro-adjustment, and you’ll have to settle for half links to resize it. 

In terms of functionality, the PRX is highly capable, with a stronger 60-hour power reserve Valjoux A05.H31 movement. However, it’s only accurate to -10/+20 seconds a day. 

15. Longines Heritage 1973 (ref. L2.791.4.72.0)

Starts from approximately: $2,900

The Longines Heritage 1973 is a watch that oozes retro charm. It’s a stunning homage to a bygone era, with a design inspired by the racing chronographs of the 1970s. 

Its cushion-shaped case, combined with the white dial and contrasting black subdials, and blue-numbered tachymeter, creates a striking visual impact that is impossible to ignore.

The tonneau case is only 40mm, so it would perfectly fit most hands and is a prime candidate for a versatility watch. It’s brushed on the top and polished on the sides, which is an eye-catcher in my opinion. 

The Longines Heritage 1973 is also one of the more affordable panda dial watches from a reputable Swiss brand. And its resale value has been on the rise for almost a decade. It might be a sporty chrono, but it still carries a dressy vibe which is Longines’ prestige anyway.

Conclusion

Panda dial watches are no doubt timeless. But you don’t have to break the bank or settle for less. There’s an endless list of options, as seen in our showcase of the 15 best panda dial watches on the market. 

With its unparalleled precision, durability, and reputation, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is undoubtedly the crown jewel of our list. It is a watch that combines iconic design with legendary performance, making it a must-have for any serious collector.

At the same time, the Seiko Speedtimer SSC813 proves that luxury doesn’t always have to come with a hefty price tag. This watch offers exceptional value for money, combining a classic panda dial with reliable Japanese craftsmanship.

Regardless of whether you’re an avid collector or a newbie enthusiast, you’ll find one suitable for your budget and style. So, why not consider adding one to your collection and experience the timeless allure of this vintage design for yourself?

In our modern digitalized world famous for the “internet of everything”, it’s easy to forget that analog tools and their functions in the decades before computers were actually the norm. Today, most people can pick up a tool or instrument from the past and have no idea what it is or how it would even work.

Heck, try even explaining what a “VHS” tape is to my 5-year-old niece and why we’d have to drive to the local Blockbuster down the road to rent one every Friday night in the 1990s instead of just switching on Netflix (how “20th Century” of us). 

Even watches overall are “outdated tech”; need the time? Simply look at the corner of your computer screen, or pull out your iPhone to quickly check. But what do you do if your battery dies or you forget your phone at home?

I’m not suggesting that everyone has multiple analog redundancies for every part of their waking lives; however, simple things like wristwatches can function as totems, expressions of our aesthetic sense and tastes, and nostalgic reminders of when things weren’t so digital.   

About the Slide Rule Complication

On the topic of watches (that’s why you’re here after all, right?), it can be said with certainty that every function and complication developed came out of a specific real-world use or need. Take, for example, the dive bezel, used to track the elapsed time on a dive to ensure the user isn’t subject to decompression sickness.

Or the GMT hand, developed specifically for pilots frequently traveling across time zones. But perhaps the most visually impactful, with functions not limited to one specific purpose, is the sliding rule complication (or slide rule bezel).

Developed by Breitling in the 1950s at the request of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the sliding rule bezel was applied on the now iconic Navitimer (“navigation timer”) model to aid pilots in navigation and perform complicated arithmetic with a simple twist of the bezel. 

This feature was a hit, and the concept has been adopted by many watch companies in the decades since, even as its practical use has fallen out of favor with the advancement of computers and technology.

What Is The Purpose of Slide Rule Watches? 

While the modern buyer or watch enthusiast may no longer rely on slide rule bezels to fly planes or perform complicated arithmetic, this doesn’t detract from the bezel’s functionality. The tool is still there; the user just has to learn to use it!

So even if you purchase a watch with a slide rule bezel for the looks alone or appreciation for its use in history, here are a few ways you can get some use out of that Navitimer (or any of the other options we’re about to list below). 

First, some basics:

There are two scales and unit index markers; the inner scale, running along the outermost perimeter of the dial itself, and the outer scale, running along the periphery of the bezel itself. The index markers (specifically on a Navitimer; this may vary on other models) are indicated in red and serve as a reference point in the alignment of the rule. 

The bezel can be moved in either a clockwise or a counterclockwise direction. Finally, the slide rule doesn’t consider decimals; finding the number closest to the one you want, regardless of the decimal point sits, will be the way to go. 

Example: “50” on the slide would equate to 5 as input; Or, if the answer reads as 32.5, and we know intuitively the number should be in the hundreds, we’d read it as 325 instead. 

Multiplication

Let’s say we want to multiply 9 times 12. To do so, align the unit index 10 on the outer scale to the 9 on the inner scale. The scale is now aligned to all multiplications of 9. From here, find 12 (the number we’re multiplying against 9) on the outer scale, and the answer displays as 10.8, which, intuitively, we know to read as 108. Note: Multiply your restaurant bill by 20, and you’ll get an approximate tip figure to impress your friends with

Division

Let’s try division! For 20 divided by 16, move 16 on the outer scale to 20 on the inner scale. Our answer is read from the outer unit index 10: “12.5”, which, intuitively, we know would convert to 1.25.

Speed

Knowing that speed equals distance divided by time, we can calculate the average travel speed by looking at the inner scale value corresponding to 10 on our outer scale.

If we know it took us three minutes to pass one landmark from the start of our journey, we’d see that the inner scale reads about 33.5, or 3.35 miles per minute. On to the watches!

The Best Slide Rule Watches

1. Casio Edifice (ref. EF-527D-1AVEF)

Measuring 45mm in diameter, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 11mm thick, the EF-527D is an affordable and reliable step into the slide rule watch pool for anyone wanting to test the sizing or look of such watches.

Capturing the toolish busy look and functionality of watches at multiples in price, this model Edifice benefits in its quartz movement with a svelte case, screw-down crown, and 100 meters of water resistance despite also being a chronograph. 

This combination of chronograph functions in mechanical watches typically results in a lower water resistance rating (30-50 meters in most cases), making the EF-527D an attractive alternative in both the practical sense and for the wallet.

Retail Price: $190

2. Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Eco-Drive (ref. BJ7006-56L)

Anecdotally, for every Breitling Navitimer I’ve seen on a pilot’s wrist when flying, I’ve seen at least 3x the amount of Citizen Promaster Nighthawks on their wrist instead (filtering out all Apple Watches, naturally). Point being, if it’s good enough for a large number of real actual pilots, it should be good for us normie passengers as well. With a pleasant 42.4mm case diameter, 12.7mm thickness, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, it’s also quite wearable for a pilot’s watch, which is typically large in size for practical visibility in the cockpit. 

Add in 200m of water resistance and the hassle-proof light-powered Eco-Drive movement, and it’s no wonder that so many choose the Nighthawk when looking for a practical and reliable watch. The BJ7006-56L, in particular, is styled in an attractive blue and yellow in honor of the US Navy’s elite flight demonstration squadron, The Blue Angels.

Retail Price: $475

3. Seiko Prospex SRPB57J1

The SRPB57J1 is Made in Japan as part of the Seiko “Sky” collection, within the Prospex (“Professional Specifications”) line of watches intended for use by professionals. Powered by the caliber 4R35 movement, the watch is an automatic mechanical movement with both hand winding and hacking seconds (i.e.: the seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out for a more precise time setting) and is rated to 100m of water resistance. 

Without chronograph functionality, as we typically see in slide rule bezel watches, the SRPB57J1 offers a clean dial aesthetic in a 44.7mm diameter case with 12mm thickness. If you’re looking for an affordable mechanical watch alternative to the Pilot’s watch style, this Seiko is a great option.

Retail Price: $497

4. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind (ref. H77912135)

Hamilton has a long history of aviation watches (even providing the US Airmail service with watches as of 1918) and has developed the Khaki Aviation line in conjunction with air squadrons and renowned pilots to create function-forward timepieces that can be used effectively on the job. 

In the X-Wind (ref. H77912135) in particular, we have a combination of crosswind calculator, chronograph, and GMT functionality, all packed within a 46mm diameter case with 14mm thickness and a caliber G10.962 ETA Quartz movement accurate to +/- 10 seconds, water resistant to 100m to boot. It’s harder to imagine a more useful set of complications for a Pilot’s watch; just don’t ask us how to calculate crosswinds (we’ll defer to the watch manual book for that).

Retail Price: $1,045

5. Seiko Flightmaster SNA411

In the pantheon of household name Seiko watches, the SNA411 Flightmaster (colloquially known as the “Flighty” in some circles) is the watch of choice in the pilot watch category. Its overall popularity is attributed to a few things: its wearability, looks, and function. 

With a 42mm diameter case, 13mm case thickness, and short lug-to-lug of 44mm, the Flightmaster can be worn on a large range of wrist sizes, with its good looks and comfort accentuated by the infinite combination of straps and watch bands (21mm lug width) it can be placed on.

The reliable Seiko caliber 7T62 quartz movement, screw-down crown, 200 meters of water resistance, and alarm flyback chronograph capability are all the icing on the cake for this classic fan favorite.    

Retail Price: $475

6. Hamilton Khaki X-Patrol (ref. H76566751)

Returning to the Hamilton Khaki Aviation line of watches, we have the 42mm diameter (16mm thickness and 52mm lug-to-lug), automatic mechanical caliber H-21 movement X-Patrol, reference H76566751, with 60 hours of power reserve. 

A looker of a watch accentuated with a see-through case back to view the movement, the X-Patrol is rated to 100m of water resistance, no small feat for a mechanical chronograph which also features an inner rotating bezel in place of the typical slide rule bezels exposed on the outside of the case. With a day and date function windowed on the right-hand side of the dial, the additional sub dials are positioned at 12, 6, and 9 in an attractive configuration. 

Retail Price: $1,695

7. Ollech & Wajs Zürich OW P-104

Founded in the city of Zurich in 1956 by business partners Joseph Ollech and Albert Wajs, Ollech & Wajs was formed to create robust, legible, and reliable tool watches powered by proven movements of the day; a brand ethos that still continues through today.

The P-104 in question is not a re-issue of a historic watch but rather a re-imagination of the watches created throughout the brand’s history. Measuring in a widely accessible 39mm diameter case, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 12.5mm in thickness, the P-104 has a fully brushed case which speaks to the robustness intended in use.

Of note, this is not a chronograph watch, but one built with both the military and commercial pilots in mind featuring a slide rule bezel akin to a diver’s bezel in form. With the proven workhorse ETA 2824-2 automatic mechanical movement inside and a 300m water resistance, Ollech & Wajs have created a particularly unique watch stylistically and function-wise for discerning collectors.

Retail Price: $1,250

8. Victorinox Airboss Mach 9 (ref. 241710)

Outside of the Swiss Army Knife collector community, luggage, and cutlery worlds, Victorinox also makes some of the most rugged and capable wristwatches available on the market. Enter the Airboss Mach 9, reference 241710; 45mm in diameter, 15mm thick, with uncharacteristic left-sided “destro” crown and chronograph pushers, and slide rule accessible via a crown at the 2 o’clock position. 

The Airboss Mach 9 is a sizable and unique watch for those looking to make a statement, with 100m water resistance, chronograph, and automatic mechanical Valjoux caliber 7750 movement to boot. Even cooler, Air Force One squadron models have been known to surface on the aftermarket as well.

Retail Price: $2,450

9. Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76726530)

Launched in 2020, the Khaki Aviation Converter Collection from Hamilton aims to capture the essence of traditional “E6B” flight computer-style watches, similar to the Navitimers of the world, which are the usual suspects in the genre.

It must be noted that the reference H76726530 is not a re-edition, though slide rule bezels have existed on previous Hamilton models in the past (look no further than this list). Rather its classic styling speaks to the success Hamilton achieved in capturing that vibe in modern materials and execution. 

Measuring 44mm in diameter and about 15mm in thickness, the Auto Chrono wears with a presence on the wrist with polished chronograph pushers and lug bevels, adding an additional layer of quality. With a 100m water resistance rating and the anti-magnetic silicon hairspring of the caliber H-21-Si movement, Hamilton has created a new riff on a classic design with all the advancements of modern watchmaking tech.

Retail Price: $1,995

10. Zeno-Watch OS Slide Rule Chronograph (ref. 8557CALTH-a1)

With a 47.5mm case diameter, Zeno-Watch classifies the Slide Rule Chronograph reference 8557CALTH-a1 within its Oversized “OS” collection, and rightfully so. Powered by an automatic chronograph Valjoux 7750 (with approximately 42 hours of power reserve) and rated to 30m of water resistance, the watch is certainly a bold look. 

Coupled with a crown at the 10 o’clock position to actuate the inner rotating slide rule, despite its size Zeno-Watch provides a clean and attractive aesthetic, balancing bold lumed Arabic along the dial with attractive cathedral-style hands. 

Retail Price: CHF 2,538

11. Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator (ref. 01 675 7648 4264-Set 5 23 77)

Originally developed as an homage to the first manned supersonic flight of October 14th, 1947, the Oris Big Crown Calculator is a uniquely gray-plated (PVD) stainless steel automatic chronograph from the brand. 

Clocking in at 46mm in diameter and 16mm in thickness with a 23mm lug width, the watch will certainly have a presence on the wrist. Still, with its grey PVD coloring and bold Arabic at 12, 3, 6, and 9 with the utmost in legible hands, you can’t knock the legibility and function of this uniquely styled slide rule watch. Particularly attractive is the coin edge bezel, a call back to vintage styling despite its outwardly modern case finish.

Retail Price: $3,950

12. Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41 (ref. A17326241B1P1)

Redesigning and creating line extensions of classic, well-known watches can often be a delicate subject. Get it wrong, and the legions of fans will let it be known. Do it right, and you might just capture something new, worthy of its own praise. 

When Breitling sought to refine the Navitimer in the Automatic 41, it can’t be denied that the clean dial aesthetic lacking chronograph subdials and functionality captures the essence of the Navitimer at its core, providing a clean and direct focus on the bi-directional slide rule bezel overall.

With a 10.10mm thickness and 47.9mm lug-to-lug, the classed-up Automatic 41 will wear closer to a dress watch than the tool watch feel of the Navitimer Chronograph it pulls inspiration from. Available on a number of leather straps, the Automatic 41 is truly elegant.

Retail Price: $4,750

13. Sinn 903 ST Navigation Chronograph

Like many brands of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, Breitling was hit particularly hard by the quartz crisis, eventually closing its doors in 1979. In the wake of staff layoffs and liquidation, the rights to the Navitimer were sold to Sinn and Sicura, with Sinn, in particular, purchasing the rights to the Breitling 806 and 809 Navitimer models of the day.

Sicura continued to manufacture watches under the Breitling name (as well as owning the “Navitimer” name outright), while Sinn continued to develop the Navitimer technology into present day. The 903 ST Navigation Chronograph is an attractive culmination of those decades since, featuring a La Joux-Perret 8000 column wheel chronograph movement in a wearable 41mm diameter case (14.5mm thick, 48.5mm lug-to-lug) with 100m water resistance.

For anyone looking for an alternative to the Breitling Navitimer, the Sinn 903 ST is a surefire choice, both with its historic ties to the Navitimer itself and the classic telltale design at nearly half the price. 

Retail Price: $3,580

14. Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph (ref. AB0137211B1P1)

The icon itself. When we talk about slide rule complicated watches, the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph is most certainly the standard to which all others are judged. From its initial inception in 1952, partnering with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) in developing a tool allowing pilots to perform all necessary flight calculations, to the latest iteration over 70 years later, the Navitimer defines the pilot chronograph genre. 

Of design note, the updated dial revives the AOPA wing logo to its original position at 12 o’clock, with new color variants in green, copper, and blue now available. The caliber Breitling 01 movement (70-hour power reserve) is housed in the familiar 46mm diameter case with 13.95mm thickness and is rated to 30m of water resistance. In a world of options, if you’re looking for the original archetype, there is no other choice.

Retail Price: $9,200

15. Richard Mille RM 039

It’s always fun to have a halo piece, and with the million-dollar RM 039, that’s a really high halo. But if your pockets are particularly well lined, and you have all the right connections to get it (limited to 30 pieces), the RM 039 offers one of the most difficult and complex Richard Mille watches to buy, with nearly 1,000 individual parts comprising its 50mm diameter case (at 19.4mm thick). 

With an oversized date display, adjustable UTC function for displaying a second time zone, gearbox-like function selector (winding, neutral, hand0setting, UTC setting functions), power reserve indicator, bidirectional slide rule bezel, and oh, by the way, did we mention that it’s a tourbillon; we have one heck of a watch constructed and finished to a degree simply impossible at a lower price point. How much is it again?

Retail Price: €1,042,500 (As they say, “If you have to ask…”)

Conclusion

The slide rule complication can seem like an anachronism, an analog function from another age when computers and digital technology weren’t even yet a dream. And yet, wristwatches with slide rule complications continue to be made in the modern era. 

Whether as a nod to history or an aesthetic appeal to aviation-age romance, the 21st-century watch collector can still find modern applications to this anachronistic tool. Just be sure to charge your phone the next time you forget your watch!

The term ‘marine chronometer’ may, at face value, seem a tad too complex for the average watch enthusiast. What if you don’t have a yacht? More aptly, can someone who doesn’t even own a swimming pool justify the purchase of such a quintessentially-aquatic timepiece?

In short, yes, although modern marine chronometers carry the name of their predecessors, they are (thankfully) no longer used to navigate open oceans. Rather, the aesthetic of marine chronometers today has found great popularity in the watch industry due to its carefully-honed balance between subtlety and complexity.

It is this design ethos that defines the contemporary marine chronometer style – white dials with black printing, Roman numeral indices, sub-seconds dials, blue steel hands, and an onion-shaped crown. Of course, these are just the most common features of a class of watches that is both vast and varied.

The Storied History of The Original Tool Watch

Many, many moons ago, the ‘Longitude Problem’ was a significant issue for early sailors who struggled to precisely determine their position at sea. So, in 1714, the British government offered a large prize to anyone who could solve the problem.

John Harrison, a self-trained carpenter, and clockmaker entered the competition with a handcrafted marine chronometer, which he claimed could keep accurate time over long oceanic voyages. Although it wasn’t exactly right at first, Harrison eventually perfected the technology (it only took him 40 years), winning the prize and paving the way for the evolution of the marine chronometer.

Safe to say, this particular type of timekeeper is one of the most historically significant watches you can own – one that literally enabled people to successfully explore the earth.

Designed To Navigate, Built To Last

Although there are many definitive examples of the marine chronometer, the most reputable are undoubtedly the Patek Philippe 5119 Calatrava and A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Pour le Mérite.

With this being said, there are many more affordable options for entry into the marine chronometer club, with brands such as Steinhart, Longines, and Raymond Weil offering excellent watches at accessible price points. Let’s jump into the list and have a look at some of the best pieces available.

1. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5119G-001)

The Patek Philippe 5119 is a watch that exudes classic perfection, rising to the high expectations that are rightly placed on the Geneva watch giant. This modern (now discontinued) reference sits at a very wearable 36mm, replacing the 3919 model, originally released at 33mm in 1985.

With its Clou de Paris bezel, created using a diamond guilloché technique (basically, diagonal lines finished to a near-impossible brilliance), this sits in both the dress watch and marine chronometer camps. The austere dial with narrow black Roman numerals on white lacquer is representative of functional marine chronometers – clear and, therefore, easy to read at any angle.

The timepiece is powered by the 215 PS hand-wound movement with time-only complications, visible through the sapphire caseback, and has a ridiculously slim profile of just 2.55mm with 130 parts. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 44-hour power reserve. Patek’s 5119G is available in yellow, rose, or white gold with an alligator strap and pin buckle, although I personally love the classic feel of the white gold. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth every penny.

2.  A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Pour le Mérite (ref. 260.028)

The Richard Lange Pour le Mérite is a seriously limited edition timepiece, with each of the 218 units in existence built around a legendary movement (more on that shortly). The black face of this attractively pared-back watch is actually a solid silver dial in disguise, enwrapped by a 40.5mm white gold case with a sapphire caseback.

Narrow Roman numerals, continuous seconds at 6 o’clock, and a simple design with just four small red touches at the standard quartered positions decorate the dial. It’s a silently serious reference. Well-known for its wonderfully unique and historic mechanism, the fusée-and-chain transmission, Richard Lange’s mechanism essentially provides constant torque to improve the watch’s accuracy as the mainspring gradually runs down.

The chain is wrapped around the mainspring barrel and fusée, which provides infinitely variable gear ratios. A beautiful hand-wound movement is decorated with intricate engravings, including on the balance bridge, escape wheel, and fourth wheel cock. 

The detail in this piece is truly mind-boggling, and if you’ve got a spare $85,000 lying around, you’ll have plenty of time to wrap your head around it all.

3. Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (ref. 1-58-01-02-05-30)

Since 2009, Glashütte Original has paid homage to the town’s rich history of producing marine chronometers with their enthralling Senator Chronometer line. This version is a classic watch with a stark, contemporary twist, not dissimilar to many of the brand’s pieces.

For the technical geeks out there, rest assured – this timepiece is an officially certified chronometer with a power reserve indicator, a large panorama date, and a day/night display. It’s powered by a manually wound, in-house Calibre 58-01 movement with the stop-second feature, which automatically jumps the seconds hand to zero and moves the minute hand ahead to the next complete minute when the crown is pulled out. 

It’s a small technical detail but a very convenient one. The case is made of red gold and is 42mm in diameter and 12.3mm thick, with a brown Louisiana alligator leather strap and a folding clasp also in red gold. Honestly, the strap alone is a thing of rare beauty.

Despite its impressive build and high-end finish, the Senator Chronometer is a simple and precise watch, aligning aptly with the quest for legible accuracy that was once the primary objective for marine watchmakers. 

The movement has the superb Glashütte Original finish, with the three-quarter plate, screw-mounted glass chatons, and a hand-engraved balance cock. For such a profound example of German engineering, expect to pay roughly $30,000.

4. Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur (ref. 1183-310/40)

Ulysse Nardin has a respected record of creating marine chronometers (somehow, even their name sounds oceanic), and their Marine Torpilleur watch doesn’t deviate from that heritage. The brand’s founder specialized in marine chronometers, and in the late 19th and early 20th century, Ulysse Nardin even supplied many naval forces around the world with them.

However, it wasn’t until 1996, the brand’s 150th anniversary, that it debuted a limited edition Marine Chronometer wristwatch that was so successful it evolved into its own collection. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is a holistically easy-to-wear watch – the case, made of stainless steel, measures 42mm in diameter and features a fluted bezel, screw-down crown, and 50-meter water resistance.

The Marine Torpilleur is in some way based on a vintage Ulysse Nardin pocket watch with a similar dial design. Although it may appear a tad busy at first, upon closer inspection, one can’t help but appreciate just how well laid out and proportioned the elements of the dial are.

Complimented by a no-nonsense black leather strap, this piece is understated where it matters and detailed where it counts. The watch’s calibre UN-118 movement is self-winding, COSC chronometer-certified, and has a power reserve of about 60 hours.

The movement is made with Ulysse Nardin’s proprietary innovations, such as the use of synthetic diamonds to greatly reduce friction, thus increasing durability and extending power reserve. A sapphire crystal window makes up most of the caseback, which reveals the movement’s circular Cotes de Genève and an elaborate oscillating weight with two anchors that further the nautical theme.

5. Bell & Ross BR 01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross released the Instrument de Marine collection in 2016, featuring three models inspired by 18th and 19th-century marine chronometers. The collection combines modern and traditional design elements. As we’ve come to expect from Bell & Ross’s square cases, this style leans more towards a modernist interpretation, which is nonetheless made of materials that pay tribute to the marine chronometer’s history – a bronze and rosewood case, with a more contemporary titanium caseback.

A 45mm case makes this a large-wearing time-keeper (slim-wristers, beware) with a white lacquer dial, black Roman numerals, and no date display. The slightly-odd brown alligator strap, which I personally would switch to a bracelet ASAP, and the bronze pin buckle complete the somewhat reductive look while adding a traditional touch to an otherwise very utilitarian watch.

Powered by the hand-wound BR-CAL.203 movement, a very reliable version of the ETA Unitas 6498 with 17 jewels, a power reserve of 56 hours, and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, this watch is limited to 500 pieces, so you may struggle to get your hands on one!

6. Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde

Aside from being a mouthful to pronounce, the Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde is perhaps the most ‘authentic-looking’ marine chronometer on this list. It features a fluted bezel, an enamel dial, and a small seconds sub-dial that gives it a sophisticated look reminiscent of some Breguet watches.

However, take a glance at the caseback, and you’ll see a much more robust, unapologetic layout – a wide, flat ring of steel encircles a small sapphire window to evoke a certain porthole aesthetic that just screams ‘maritime’. The matching blued steel hands and blue crocodile leather strap add a touch of luxury to the overall aesthetic, but I think this one really comes alive on the bracelet, which is an intricate 5-link design that drapes over the wrist comfortably.

Made of stainless steel, the case measures 42mm in diameter and 12.2mm in thickness and features Mühle-Glashütte’s signature vertically-brushed finish and volute-shaped lugs with polished top surfaces. It’s water-resistant to 100 meters, more than enough to protect the MU 9415 hand-wound movement, which has Glashütte’s characteristic three-quarter plate, woodpecker-neck regulation, and stop-second function for precision time-setting.

The movement also provides a 44-hour power reserve and fast date adjustment. The Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde costs $2,500 on the strap, but I’d definitely throw down a bit extra for the bracelet.

7. Wempe Chronometerwerke Power Reserve (ref. WG080007)

Wempe’s Chronometerwerke features a hand-wound movement, the CW3, which was designed and built by Wempe and had an edgy-looking power reserve indicator at the top of the dial, a logical and practical addition to any manually-wound watch.

It’s a bit of a large boy, with a steel case measuring 43mm across and 12.5mm thick, and as with all of the aforementioned timepieces, the movement is visible through a see-through caseback. The CW3 is decorated with traditional German watchmaking features, such as the large three-quarter plate with Glashütte wave decoration and a swan’s-neck adjustment for rate symmetry. 

The balance is unusually positioned at 12 o’clock, and performance is improved by laser-skeletonizing the escape wheel, pallets, and balance. In simpler terms, a lighter watch is a better watch. The company went as far as to establish its own testing institute in the Glashütte Observatory, where its watches are tested to the German standard DIN 8319, with precision requirements similar to COSC. It costs roughly $5200, a fitting price for a piece that excels at being both intriguingly different and reliably familiar.

8. Tourby Marine Roman 43

The most striking thing about the Tourby Marine Roman 43 is its case, which combines brushed and polished stainless steel finishes that please the eye in much the same way as Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu technique has done for years.

The dial is also impressive, featuring metallic blue hands and precise printed indicators set against a white dial. The same size as the Wempe, the case measures 43mm in diameter, is approximately 12mm thick, and sits on a black alligator strap with a pin buckle. 

The exhibition caseback showcases the beautiful hand-wound Unitas 6498.1 movement, which boasts a power reserve of 44-48 hours and runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hertz). The watch’s movement wheels can also be finished with a sunburst effect, and an optional folding clasp is available for the strap.

It is this customizability that makes the Tourby a very attractive purchase for those who value individuality above all else, especially as it’s priced at a very reasonable $1,550 and comes with a leather travel case. Overall, the Tourby Marine Roman might be the best value-for-money ticker on this list.

9. Raymond Weil Maestro Automatic Small Second (ref. 2238-STC-00659)

The Maestro, otherwise known as reference 2238-STC-00659, boasts a 40mm steel case with an alluringly slim profile, measuring only 10mm in thickness. It features the classic design elements of a marine chronometer-style watch but perhaps not where you might expect to find them – embellished hands are replaced by simple batons, while sans-serif Roman numerals ring around a multi-textural dial, the center of which showcases a wonderful circular guilloché detail. 

The result is a watch face that’s well-designed, compact, and balanced. The date window is subtle, and the small seconds sub-dial is strategically placed to ensure it doesn’t obstruct the numerals at the lower part of the dial.

The self-winding movement delivers 38 hours of power reserve, most likely an ETA 2895-2, visible through the sapphire caseback. A calf leather strap imprinted with an alligator motif is secured with a stainless steel folding clasp. This timepiece is priced at approximately $1300, making it an attractive entry point for the style.

10. Steinhart Marine Chronometer 44 (ref. M0509)

Steinhart is a watch brand known for its honorific nods to all aspects of watchmaking’s past, including its Marine collection, which celebrates John Harrison’s work on the first marine chronometer. The MC 44 has a classic design with a white lacquer dial and black numerals, blue poire hands, and a sub-dial for seconds at 6 o’clock.

Its polished bezel stands out against the brushed steel case, a nice touch in this price bracket, and the crown is truncated-conical, making it easy to grip when setting the time, although it does stick out a bit more than I’d like. 

This particular model features a 44mm case and a Unitas 6498-1 calibre movement made by ETA, known for its accuracy and legibility. The hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour, which is about as precise as you can hope to get for the money.

A perfect choice for enthusiasts who appreciate the art of traditional watchmaking but don’t want to break the bank, it’s a classic design brought to life by a precision movement and bolstered by impressive attention to detail. Hard to beat in terms of value, this Steinhart is definitely worth a double take.

11. Stowa Marine Original Roman White

Despite its rather dull name, the Marine Original Roman is a great choice for anyone looking for a left-of-center watch that doesn’t sacrifice reliability or accuracy. With a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 12mm, it’s in the ‘safe zone’ for most wrists.

The high-polished white dial with slim, black numerals and blued steel hands speak to something slightly modern in terms of style. Perhaps it’s the way the seconds sub-dial cuts into the V and VII indices to create a floating effect of sorts. These little touches can really elevate the otherwise mundane into something far more exciting.

The movement is a hand-wound Unitas 6498-1, a beloved unit modified and finished by Stowa with a swan-neck regulator. It runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 46-50 hours. This isn’t Stowa’s first rodeo – their earliest watches of this type date back to 1939, so you can rest assured that you’re buying something that the firm has perfected over decades.

12. L. Leroy Automatic Deck Chronometer (ref. LL200/1)

This one is a dark horse. A black duck. You may have no expectations when it comes to L. Leroy’s LL200/1, perhaps because you’ve never heard of it or because it lacks the gravitas of some of the other ‘louder’ brands on this list.

I don’t blame you, but I do feel sorry for you because this is a watch worth knowing, particularly if you value high-quality pieces that fly (or sail) under the radar. It’s a distinctly masculine representation of the marine chronometer – a 43mm white gold case houses the officially-certified L511 automatic movement. 

A silver dial hosts Roman numeral hour markers and a minute track, which runs around a minimal guilloché center. The lines are hard, and the curves are definitive. There’s nothing soft about this watch except the way the lugs meet the leather strap.

Somehow though, it’s a very unassuming piece, leaving most of the really impressive features to the L511 – a 36-jewel automatic movement that oscillates at 28800 semi-oscillations per hour, decorated by an exclusive “grainé-champlevé” décor on the bridges, hand-chamfered, with raised mirror-polished markings and a 22-carat gold oscillating weight. The watch is truly something special, and if you’re a discerning individual who can foot the bill, I would recommend it every time.

13. Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale (ref. 5547BR/12/9ZU)

The Marine Alarme Musicale wristwatch is a standout on this list for one obvious reason – it makes a little noise at the time that you want it to, thanks to its rather handy alarm feature. The self-winding watch includes an indicator for the alarm time, the alarm’s power reserve, and whether the alarm is on or off.

Additionally, it features a second time-zone display (very practical for travelers). Aesthetically, it’s certainly the most boisterous entry here, with an 18k rose gold case, matching gold hands that float over an intricate silver dial, and rather prominent Roman numerals with a lume-fill at every hour except six (thanks to the date window). 

The watch comes with a sapphire caseback, a screw-locked crown, another standard crown, and a pusher. It has a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 13mm (that alarm complication has to go somewhere) and can be purchased with a leather or rubber strap, with the option of a gold bracelet. Strangely enough, I feel like the rubber strap works best on this one, as it provides a sense of austerity, contrasting the otherwise busy-luxe composition of the Marine Alarme Musicale.

Finally, the watch is driven by Breguet’s calibre 519F/1, which features an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, a flat balance spring in silicon, contains 36 jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 45 hours. You can have all this and not a thing more for a mere $ 42,000. A word of advice – try before you buy.

14. Junghans Tempus Power Reserve (ref. 028/4725.01)

The Junghans Tempus Power Reserve watch pays tribute to the company’s founder, Erhard Junghans, who pioneered and innovated German watchmaking. The watch employs a timeless design with – you guessed it – a small seconds sub-dial and stunningly reductive power reserve indicator.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 41.8mm in diameter and 10.8mm in thickness, with water resistance up to 3 bar. My only gripe with this lovely piece is that it would be so much more in vogue if it were, say, 39mm, whereby it could play the dual role of marine chronometer and dress watch effortlessly. 

Nonetheless, there’s plenty to love here, still. The self-winding J830.5 movement powers the watch, running at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), and has a power reserve of 48 hours. Arguably my favorite dial of the lot, there’s a wonderful contrast between new and old here – elongated Roman numerals push the face outward while bespoke modern lettering centers it all, despite being, well, off-center. Reference 028/4725.00 costs $3,500, and given that it somehow stands alone in a very competitive field, I’d say that’s a price worth paying.

15. Longines Master Collection Power Reserve (ref. L2.708.4.51.6)

Full disclosure – I’m not a Longines guy. They haven’t reinvented the wheel with this watch. There’s nothing spectacular or outwardly engrossing about the way it looks or even about its movement. However, this is a watch that has a very useful superpower – it goes with anything and will never, ever look out of place.

There’s real value in that kind of stylistic security. The Longines Master Collection is a prime example of the company’s skill in making reliable watches that don’t rock the boat (pun intended). A 38.5mm stainless steel case houses on its face a black dial with white Roman numerals, a central seconds hand, and a power reserve indicator where the usual sub-dial would be, and that’s it.

Beneath the unassuming dial lies the L602 automatic movement made by ETA (calibre 2897), which has a power reserve of 42 hours and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The transparent caseback reveals the movement, and the watch has a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp that can be conveniently operated by pushers. 

For $2,350, there’s enough watch here to keep an experienced enthusiast happy for a long time and a beginner collector mightily intrigued until their next purchase. 

For The Explorer In All Of Us

With that, I’m hopeful that I’ve demystified the marine chronometer for some readers while perhaps encouraging others to add another (much-needed) MC to their collections. Strangely enough, there’s a tendency for people to become obsessed with watches that fill such a specific stylistic and cultural bracket, and these timepieces certainly are no exception. 

Even though the majority of marine chronometers are being worn at dinner events and in cars, as opposed to on the open ocean, I’m sure (as are you) that the historical reputation of this particular type of timepiece isn’t lost on the wearer, no matter the circumstance. So I suggest you try one on, not only to see how it fits but to see how it feels.