William Boyd, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 3 of 17

 

Author: William Boyd

William has been collecting and exploring luxury watches ever since he was 19. He discovered his passion for timepieces when he received a vintage rolex submariner as a gift from his father on his 18th birthday! And there has been no looking back ever since!
do tudor watches hold their value

My list will be endless if I begin to mention the number of items that lose their value immediately after they are bought. From a set of blinds to an expensive ride, these items are capable of diminishing in value faster than you think. It’s a normal phenomenon. Some pricey items just don’t hold as much value as when they were initially bought.

But is it the same for Tudor Watches?

As a watch enthusiast, my preference is set on high-end timepieces that scream luxury and can be potential investments. But the truth is that after a certain period, some of these wristwatches lose their money’s worth, or it might take an exceedingly long time for me to gain profits on my watches as an investor. 

In determining whether a watch would retain or lose its value, everything boils down to the rate of supply and demand of the particular watch model. Brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe would rarely lose their value because the very high market demand is at play. However, the same cannot be said for Tudor watches in all cases, as its value retention varies for different models.

About Tudor Watches

The Tudor brand is popularly known for its luxurious feel and is loved by watch enthusiasts across the world. The watches are known to feature top functionality, excellent craftsmanship, and also great quality. I would not expect anything less since Tudor was created by the best-known luxury watchmaker and father of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf.

In 1926, a Swiss watchmaker known as Veuve de Philippe Hüther came up with the name “The Tudor”. That same year, Hans Wilsdorf purchased the exclusive rights to the name, and it allowed him to develop the brand from that point. 

The first set of Tudor-signed watches was released in 1932 and was sent to the Australian market. They featured rectangular-shaped faces, and some also had the Rolex name on the dial alongside the Tudor signature. After World War II, Hans created Tudor’s manufacturing company called the “Montres TUDOR S.A.” in 1946.

Thereafter, Tudor became a sister company to Rolex and has always benefited from its relationship with Rolex. Hans decided to create a luxurious but equally affordable wristwatch for people in the military and professional divers. So, between the early 1960s to 1980s, the watchmaker sold Tudor watches to military agencies, including the French Marine Nationale and the US Navy, who began issuing Tudor watches like the Submariners to their divers. 

These timepieces include the brand’s first-ever Rolex-influenced  “Oyster collection”, which features a waterproof Oyster case. Over time, Tudor introduced other features like the “Big Crown” and “Snowflake hands” into the Submariner watch line.

Various watch enthusiasts are in awe of Tudor watches due to their quality and luxurious delivery. On top of this, the timepieces are also affordable. I mean, a Rolex can feature intricate designs and bear lots of unique characteristics, no doubt. But I know that a luxurious Rolex watch will cost me a lot of money. 

On the other hand, Tudor watches tick off the luxurious box, the quality box, and the inexpensive box also. I choose to buy a Tudor watch because I will be getting the full package and, at the same time, without breaking the bank. Watch lovers don’t call it the “Budget Rolex” for nothing.

Hence, the main reason why watch collectors would buy a Tudor timepiece is that they would be getting the same “Rolex effect” at an economical price. This, of course, has made owning an opulent watch much easier. 

If I want to purchase one, I can own a Black Bay 54 that retails around $3,850 on the market. This water-resistant and modern iteration of the Tudor Submariner boasts a quality stainless steel body, a polished satin accent, and a light feel to it, alongside many more features.

What Makes Luxury Watches Hold Their Value?

At first glance, I would think of purchasing an affluent watch that only catches my fancy. But on second thought, I cannot help but also factor in whether the timepiece can be a source of investment for me also. I mean, in the end, it will be a win-win, right?

However, when I buy wristwatches solely because I admire them, it would lessen my pain by the time I want to sell them, and I realize that they have lost their worth after using them for years. The truth is, not all watches retain their money’s worth after a long period which can be disappointing.

But some still do, and if I purchase them, I will gain either the same value or a slightly higher profit. It is a given that some watches hold their value better than others due to varying quality, prices, supply, and demand. Although no one can accurately predict the future prices of things, there are a few things to consider when buying a luxurious watch that might hold its estimated worth for years to come.

Brand Heritage

If a watch’s worth is mostly determined by how trendy it is and how it is mostly requested by consumers, then it is highly advantageous to start by purchasing fashionable and most sought-after brands. What I mean by this is buying wristwatches from brands that have consistently been preferred over time as opposed to those that are trending at the moment.

Brands like this include Rolex, which is no doubt the King of all timepieces. Rolex has existed since time immemorial and is popularly known both in and out of the watch industry, especially for its fancy timepieces. I am certain that if I approach a random person who knows nothing about watches to mention a watch brand, they will definitely mention Rolex. This shows how widely-known the brand is.

Now, the fact that Rolex has built a name for itself in the market is mainly what helps the brand to make more sales. I highly doubt that you would find a lot of Rolex models that have lost their economic worth- that’s if you would even find any. Similarly, watch brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are popularly known brands that also retain most, if not all, of their original market price. 

I know for a fact that these two brands are the go-to watch investments for most people. Other older brands created over a hundred years ago, like Jaeger-LeCoultre, OMEGA, and IWC, among many others, have all built trust with customers.

Hence, I would not think twice before buying a wristwatch that was created by these brands. In essence, a brand’s heritage determines the possibility of a watch’s value retainment. So, the longer a brand has existed, the more likelihood that the worth of its timepieces will not diminish.

Iconic Watch Designs

In my opinion, a classy watch is mostly determined by how intricate and iconic its designs are. For various watch enthusiasts, unique designs, artistry, and out-of-the-world skillfulness featured on a timepiece are among the things that determine the value of such a piece.

Personally, I like spontaneity and never-before-seen wristwatches because such pieces elude more opulence. These pieces are usually rare, which makes them worth so much more. Hence, watches that are unique in their designs and very rare are known to hold their value retention well enough.

In fact, they can even increase in value as the years pass. Examples are watches that feature dial colors not normally inculcated in the watch by the watchmaker and bear designs that are only peculiar to the timepieces. A Vianney Halter Deep Space Tourbillon is a perfect example of a piece with an uncommon but beautiful design that will forever be valuable.

Material

Another thing to consider is the material from which a watch was made. A watch that is created from quality materials or worthy precious metals, like pure gold or platinum, will be valuable in the watch industry and also outside the industry.

I know for a fact that gold will always be worth a lot. So, if I buy a Yellow gold Rolex Daytona, I can rest assured that I will get my money’s worth once I sell it because of the gold material it is made of. 

Also, a timepiece made out of materials that are trending at the time it is about to be sold will be deemed valuable. The material will still be considered fashionable and will attract a lot of potential customers. Therefore, I can make a profit from selling such a timepiece.

Availability

When I hear the word limited edition, the watch that comes to mind is the Vacheron Constantin Chronometer Royal timepiece. This watch is notorious for being one of the least common, perhaps even the most-uncommon watch the world has ever known. Due to its rarity, such watches will never diminish in value.

The fact is that there are quite a few watches that are so rare that no one knows how many of them were produced. In this case, the Vacheron has only been seen once during an auction and is a highly limited edition. 

Another is the Cartier Crash watch, of which only four pieces in total have been manufactured. Its unique design, which features a look similar to a cloth worn by historic desert travelers, makes it stand out. Watches like these are definitely going to always increase in value and will never diminish.

Do Tudor Watches Hold Their Value?

Generally, Tudor watches are not known to have very high value retention. This is because, in the first place, they are not very pricey. However, some Tudor models have proven to be valuable even after purchase. 

An example is the Heritage Black Bay wristwatch line. This piece is one of Tudor’s most sought-after models, and it has been doing pretty great as regards value retention. The collection has seen various models over the years, which have all been recognized as highly valuable. 

Models under the Heritage Black Bay line, including the Black Bay 58, the standard Black Bay, and the Black Bay GMT watches, are notable pieces that have been a success when it comes to being worthy after a while. 

The demand for the Black Bay 58, which costs around $3,700, is very high. This is most likely due to its features that entail a vintage-inspired dive watch design, great proportions, and excellent specifications. As a timepiece that is highly requested, its value will at least not decrease as time passes.

It is the same with the GMT, which has also proven that, over time, it still holds value. Personally, I would not buy a Tudor watch as an investment because the possibility of the watch retaining its value over time is not certain. Rather, I would purchase them due to their awesome features and designs.

Most times, Tudor watches have been known to decrease in value by 50% and sometimes 60% immediately after they have been bought. The models I described above will retain their value. But those are just a few of the number of watches the brand has produced. For a higher investment, I would not advise that Tudor watches should be an option- not in this world.

It is, however, important to note that compared to other Tudor watch models, no watch has ever been worthy over time like the Pelagos. This model is also popular among watch enthusiasts due to its classy appearance, the quality of materials used in creating it, and its durability. Now, this watch ticks off more of the boxes than other Tudor models when it comes to the qualifications a watch must meet to gain the ability to retain its value.

Its attractive features speak for it and have given it easy access to being recognized as the best diver’s watch that the brand offers. Due to this, its status on the market will also increase. This gives the Pelagos an edge over other Tudor models in being eligible for potential investments. Therefore, compared to other Tudor watch models, the Tudor Pelagos has been recognized as a watch model that still holds its value after purchase.

Do Tudor Watches Appreciate In Value?

The fact that a Black Bay 58 holds value after some time does not mean that it is automatically a great form of investment. It is just like an expensive car. The moment I step out of an automobile shop with my brand-new ride, its value will significantly drop afterward.

While this may not be the case with all luxury watches, as some of them appreciate in value over time, Tudor watches just don’t fit into this description.

If I am looking to buy a watch that remains valuable for years to come and also appreciates in value, I’d not go for a Tudor watch. Of course, its sister company is Rolex, a brand that is known to always have value retention and also appreciates in value. 

But take it from me when I say that when it comes to value appreciation, these two brands are two opposite sides of a coin. A Rolex watch makes for a great investment, but a Tudor watch doesn’t. Unlike Rolex or Patek Philippe timepieces that produce limited editions, Tudor watches are mass-produced and always available at the Tudor stores.

But it does not mean that I would not be able to resell my Tudor watch. Looking at its top-notch quality, which is a given since it is related to Rolex, anyone would want to buy an affordable wristwatch that also bears the same high-end features that Rolex has.

Well, I know I would. In that regard, a Tudor watch can be a good investment because I will be able to sell it for a significant price, even though it may not be the exact amount I got it, nor will it be higher.

What About Vintage Tudor Watches?

As I have previously emphasized, Tudor watches have existed for quite some time. Since its initiation, it has produced an array of different lavish timepieces, some of which are now vintage. The demand for vintage Tudor watches has increased over time which is not surprising.

This is because their value has doubled, and they have also proven to be highly durable. Some of these vintage Tudor models that are now in high demand include the oldest Chronograph models, the Tudor Submariner References, the Tiger model, the Oyster Prince series, and the Big Block, amongst many others.

Many watch collectors have aimed to grab these vintage pieces whenever they find them because they are becoming harder to find, especially in good shape. What baffles me the most is why a watch with a manual winding movement holds as much value as up to double its original price.

But I remember that these vintage timepieces were very common amongst people in the military due to their waterproof features. Its strap was also suggested and supplied by the military back when Hans Wilsdorf began to create Tudor watches.

Hence, a Tudor Submariner Marine Nationale has notably doubled in value and is one of the most purchased Tudor vintage watches. The Marine Nationale, which has the initials “M.N” at the back of its case, goes hot at $22,000.

Another expensive vintage Tudor timepiece can also be the Oyster Prince series, especially the Oysterdate. This model was among the first ever Tudor watches to be released and is quite similar to the “Datejust” watch by Rolex. When I think of a simple yet elegant timepiece, the Oysterdate comes to mind because of its classic design and historical beauty. Tudor vintage pieces are the real definition of the phrase “old but gold.”

Conclusion

While it is safe to say that Tudor watches can be classified as classic, exceptional, and luxurious timepieces, the sad truth is that some of its products just might not retain their value for a long time. I would purchase a Tudor watch for its affluent look, for the “Rolex effect” which it gives, and for its other amazing features.

But I would not set my mind towards gaining double the price at which I purchased it or expect a value appreciation over the years. Overall, Tudor watches are great luxury-wise but just might not be my go-to brand for investment.

Maybe you’ve always thought owning a decent watch with a high price tag isn’t for someone at your wage level. You probably already know that owning a quality watch is a meaningful investment that may turn into a family heirloom or a rite of passage, but alas! You’ve been buying knock-off watches every year!

Come on! A timepiece is way more than a time-telling machine and is worth splurging on. Just as family matriarchs sometimes pass down treasured items, high-end watches have an inherent value that can be passed down to future generations.

But there’s a common crisis we all go through once we’ve made up our minds to seal the deal and pay for the watch we always wanted. A second dilemma. Which brand? Which design? Which material?

Getting a luxury watch is a major life decision, and the weight of responsibility to get it right often rests solely on the shoulders of the potential buyer, but hey, we are here to help!

Whether you’re marking a personal milestone or you’ve set some money aside to finally bring home your horological love, here are 12 exciting, exclusive, and extravagant timepieces under $20,000.

What To Look For In Watches Under $20,000.

High-end watches are a class of their own, and they are called Haute Horlogerie for a reason. Their very raison d’être has always been to catch the eye of top collectors, and they come with features to back this claim.

It is important to consider a few points before purchasing one because of their premium price tag and because getting one is an emotional investment. That said, here are a few points to consider before making that payment.

1. Watch Purpose

Beyond time telling, a watch is (and will always be) an intricate piece of hardware that expresses our personality. Watches come with intriguing features aside from telling the time, and these additions are called complications.

There are various complications designed to serve different purposes, so you should decide which is best for you. The most common include a tourbillon, a Day-Date complication, a moon phase, a perpetual calendar, an annual calendar, and a chronograph, which measures elapsed time and GMT. 

People who travel across many countries for business or leisure will find this world time function necessary. Again there are ‘tool’ watches which are a great option for daily wear and can easily be taken along rugged and even aquatic adventures. And dress watches which are versatile everyday timepieces for formal and informal occasions.

2. Brand Reputation

While most high-end watches from recognized brands with premium prices are designed and crafted to outlast their owners, not all proffer a statement of power and prestige. Certain watch manufacturers enjoy a global reputation for consistently delivering high-quality timepieces.

It is best to buy a watch from a reputable watchmaker if you want your timepiece to stand the test of time and convey a distinctive fashion flair.

A luxury watch is an enduring symbol of taste and class, and some of the big names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Blancpain have secured their places as world leaders in haute horlogerie.

3. Build Quality & Finishing

The build quality and finishing are just some of the major factors you should consider when getting your luxury timepiece.

The build quality generally depends on how well the watch was constructed and designed, including the state of the machinery. You should inspect the watch you plan to purchase for defects, scratches, dents, and/or any imperfections on the case, crown, buckle, strap, dial, etc.

The finishing entails the last-minute touches given to the internal and external components of the watch. Watches with exquisite shine and smoothness represent the ultimate expression of the fine craft of watchmaking.

Be sure to buy your watch from an official brand retailer to get the right quality and official packaging with a warranty.

4. Movement

The movement of a watch is the internal mechanism or engine that drives it. It is what makes the functions and complications operate, and a good movement (or caliber) will keep time reliably. Mechanical, automatic, and quartz are the three primary types of watch movement.

High-quality movements are sometimes hand-made or hand finished and polished; the best movements are COSC-chronometer certified. To attain this, the movement must pass various stringent tests over a 15-day period and fall between – 4 and + 6 seconds.

Bad movements can lose significant minutes per day and have inconsistent tick speeds, so be sure to go for a reliable movement from a reputable brand.

5. Value Retention

Certain watches make for excellent investment pieces. Buying and selling high-end watches can be a minefield of disappointing slopes for the untrained, which is why you must secure your investment by selecting watches that hold their value.

Many timepieces out there plummet in value the second they are unboxed, while others can be sold after some years for a profit under the right circumstances.

Some factors that lead to watches holding value include; brand recognition, heritage, exclusivity, availability, celebrity/movie affinity, and demand. Watches from prestigious brands like Rolex are known to retain their value and make for great investment pieces.

Remember to have your timepiece checked by a qualified professional about every five years and service it whenever advised to avoid expensive damages.

The 12 Best Watches Under $20,000

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Starting this list is none other than an iconic timepiece from the King of Haute Horology. Some misguided enthusiasts consider Rolex watches as nothing more than a status symbol that gained popularity only because they are extravagant timepieces destined to end up in fiercely guarded private collections.

How ignorant! Rolex became so popular in the first place because each watch from the Swiss Marque is hand-assembled, hand-tested, and offers incredibly high quality and longevity. 

Rolex’s raison d’être appears to be to break world records every single time, a feat they have largely accomplished since they began manufacturing avant-garde timepieces in 1905. The GMT Master II collection is part of the brand’s professional watch collection, with a lineup of robust timepieces that displays the time in two different time zones simultaneously.

The Ref. 126710BLNR is the pinnacle of the collector’s dream timepiece and is presented on a 40mm Oystersteel case with a height of 12.5mm in line with the rest of the collection. The case is entirely satin-brushed with a screw-down Triplock crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The bezel is a 24-hour GMT that combines black and blue Cerachrom flawlessly. 

The watch features the same gloss black found on contemporary professional Rolex models and is powered by the new in-house manufacture caliber 3285. Expect to spend around $17,000 in the secondary market for a like-new piece.

2. Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, Hublot’s obsession with unusual materials has revolutionized the watchmaking universe. Amidst the wide array of big and bold timepieces, the Big Bang Unico Titanium stands out and can best be expressed as the epitome of “more is more.”

The unique watch is presented in a 44 mm satin-finished and polished titanium case which obviously would be overwhelming on a small wrist. Despite the size, the watch is substantially light thanks to the use of high-quality grade 5 titanium which also offers high corrosion resistance and retains a slightly bluish metallic sheen when polished.

The matte blue skeletonized dial is pretty busy at first glance but, trust me, after wearing it for a few days, it won’t appear cluttered in any way. The dial features a 60-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, we have continuous seconds. If you look closely at the 3 o’clock sub-dial, you’ll find the date subtly positioned within.

Visible from both sides is the caliber HUB1280. Hublot calls it a UNICO manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a column wheel. The movement consists of 354 components and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The watch retails for $19,154 on Hublot’s website.

3. Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet is a brand that deserves more attention. The Swiss watchmaker produces some of the most elegant timepieces in the world with such exquisite designs that should make members of royal families and Hollywood A-listers empty their pockets. 

The Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6 is one of those watches that will make anyone turn their head towards your wrist, even if they’re mildly interested in the fine art of watchmaking. The watch seamlessly demonstrates the brand’s “savoir-faire” and is presented in a splendid 38mm 18ct rose gold case with a  slim profile of only 5.45mm.

The watch is all about purity and is extremely clean, simple, and captivating with a 2-hand display. The engine-turned “guilloché” dial is the easiest feature to spot as it steals the show while complimenting the gold case superlatively.

The dial has been kept as pure as possible and features a charming “clous de Paris” pattern in the center. Moving away from the center, you will notice circular brushed surfaces for the hour ring and, lastly, a “pavé de Paris” cobbling to distinguish the indication. The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 with a 45h power reserve. It retails for approx. $19,850

4. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin is a brand that has produced some of the most complicated and impressive timepieces in history. It is also one of the world’s top luxury watch brands, with ultra-high-end watches produced in the strictest manner to adhere to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. 

The Patrimony Manual-Winding Ref. 81180/000G-9117 is an example of the horological brilliance of the longstanding Maison and is presented in a 40mm white gold case. 

The watch is incredibly versatile with downward sloping lugs which ensures the watch sits snugly on the wrist with the help of a black Alligator leather strap. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, the classic dress watch is an aesthetic and mechanical delight. The dial is elegant, pure, and enchanting, with a flawless minimalist design.

It features slender applied white-gold hour markers, dauphine hands that are mirror polished on one side only, and a graceful Maltese Cross above ‘Vacheron Constantin’. It is powered by the in-house caliber 1400, a manual-winding movement that meets the standards of the Geneva Seal. It beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 40 hours. Expect to spend around $20,000 for the Ref. 81180/000G-9117.

5. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1130-52)

Blancpain is one of the oldest surviving brands, with roots dating back to 1735. The brand is known for producing classically styled timepieces with avant-garde technicalities. Exploring the depths of the diver’s history and evolution is impossible without talking about Blancpain.

The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms is widely recognized as the first dive watch. And whether we like it or not, Blancpain belongs in the Hall of Fame, next to legendary brands like Rolex and Omega. Fifty Fathoms, one of the earliest creations of the innovative brand, has remained an iconic and successful diving watch since its introduction in the 1950s.

Like many groundbreaking inventions, the Fifty Fathoms was born out of necessity. It was adopted by military diving units worldwide immediately after its launch and became an essential part of many divers’ kits. The Ref. 5015-1130-52 continues the outstanding legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 45mm stainless steel case with a height of 15.5mm.

The matte black dial keeps the spirit of the Fifty Fathoms alive by remaining highly legible and uncluttered. The watch is powered by the Caliber 1315, an automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve. It retails for approximately $16,000.

6. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61 is an elegant, clean, and poetic timepiece with immaculate aesthetics and clear graphics.

Inspired by high-end antique pocket watches, the case, which is made of 18-carat red gold, is exquisite and striking with juxtaposed polished and satin-brushed surfaces and strongly curved lugs. 

Turning the watch over will reveal a sapphire exhibition case back which offers a splendid view of the self-winding movement within the timepiece. The Calibre 90-02 is a beautifully refined in-house movement that can store about 42 hours of energy when fully wound. It features a large date, off-centered hours and minutes, a small second, and a moon phase indication.

The movement features nicely chamfered angles, highly polished steel parts, and thermally blued screws. The brand’s iconic “Duplex Swan Neck Regulator” heightens its appeal and includes hand-engraved balance cocks. 

The dial is what you’d expect from a distinctly German Maison with superlative watchmaking craftsmanship. It is perfectly structured and looks quite balanced and uncluttered despite the numerous indications it hosts. The watch sells for $10,000 and is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap.

7. Grand Seiko Sport Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC229

Launched at BaselWorld in 2019 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Nissan GT-R, the SBGC229 is just one of the ways Grand Seiko chose to express its DNA. The statement piece feels innately automotive and is dressed in “Bayside Blue”, from the GT-R’s iconic blue color.

The case is made up of high-intensity titanium and Grand Seiko’s blue ceramic. It measures 46.4mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 52.5mm. Ceramic has been used for the outer case only (including the bezel) since ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, while titanium is used on the inside.

The white crocodile strap is also a fitting tribute to Nissan’s classic sports car, with blue stitching that is in perfect aesthetic harmony with the blue of the case. The silvery-white textured dial has a grained surface with dark blue accents.

The dial is busy and houses totalizers for hours and minutes, a date window at 3:00, an inner and outer ring (each representing 30 seconds), the typical Spring Drive power reserve indicator, and expertly finished hour indices and handset. The watch retails for $21,000 and is powered by the Spring Drive 9R96, rated to be accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White” (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

The Calibre 321 is the holy grail of the Speedy collection and was incredibly well-received when it was introduced in 2019. Designed by Lemania’s Albert Piguet, the resurrected legendary caliber 321 is the same one found in the pre-moon references. What’s more, this revered movement is what powered the 145.012, which was worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the moon.

It is named “Ed White” because it pays respect to Astronaut Ed White, an aeronautical engineer and the first American to walk in space in 1965. During the Gemini IV space flight mission, Ed was equipped with the Speedmaster 105.003.

The Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 honors this legend and comes in a stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.7 mm across. The case is identical to the vintage model and features classic straight lugs and an unprotected crown flanked by two pushers. The matte black dial has a fine grainy texture and a ‘step’ profile, which means the minute track sits lower than the rest of the dial.

There are three recessed chronograph registers at 3, 6, and 9, showing off the running seconds, elapsed hours, and elapsed minutes, respectively. The timepiece is limited in production each year and sells for $14,100.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watchmaker with nearly 200 years of innovation and creativity pushing horology’s boundaries. The Swiss luxury watch brand was founded by Antoine LeCoultre and is famous for Its complete in-house manufacturing process.

All of its watches are of very high quality and are crafted to perfection with meticulous attention to detail. The Polaris Mariner Memovox pays tribute to the Memovox sports watches of the 1950s, whose built-in alarm was an extremely practical feature.

Memovox is a combination of two Latin words, ‘memor’, and ‘vox’, literally meaning “the voice of memory”. The alarm timepieces activated an acoustic signal to alert divers when to resurface divers after a defined time.

The Ref. Q903818J displays the epic characters of this prestigious lineage and comes in a 42mm stainless steel case. The case features a splendid mix of brushed and polished surfaces with three crowns.

The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters and adheres to the ISO 6425 standard. As a professional dive watch, the dial is highly legible, with the hands, numerals, and hour markers all treated with two colors of Super-LumiNova. It is powered by JLC’s automatic caliber 956 with 44 hours of power reserve. This watch sells for $ 19,300 on the brand’s website.

10. H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, H. Moser & Cie is a luxury watch brand that has built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. All of its watches have consistently demonstrated quality craftsmanship and mechanisms of the highest standard. 

The Dual Time Ref. 8809-1200 is a highly seductive watch that fuses the aesthetics of historical Moser pocket watches with contemporary vibes. The watch features a 42mm round stainless steel case with wire lugs and a large onion crown that bears a resemblance to the iconic pilot watches of the 1920s.

As its name states, the watch displays two time zones simultaneously. There is a third skeletonized hand similar in length to the hour hand for the dual time zone function. The main hand is sword-shaped, and both have a generous application of Super-LumiNova.

The burgundy fumé dial with sunburst pattern is enchanting and is adorned with applied Arabic numerals crafted from a ceramic-based material known as Globolight. Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house HMC 809 self-winding caliber that provides 72 hours of power reserve. The watch costs about $20,000.

11. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Bronze, an alloy of copper and pure tin, is a metal with tough properties widely used in the marine field. Apart from being highly resistant to saltwater corrosion, it is also fairly scratch-resistant and is known to acquire a stable oxidized layer after some time.

The oxidation layer preserves its structural integrity and gives it a warm and beautiful patina as time goes on. The patina-friendly material is a favorite choice for dive watches, and Panerai was the brand that sparked the bronze mania.

The Submersible Bronzo Ref. PAM00968 carries on the legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 47mm bronze case which, according to Panerai, comprises 161 grams of heavy metal for modern heroes only.

The case of the watch features a patented classic bridge device that can be seen protecting the winding crown. This focus of the brown dial is on simplicity and legibility, and as with all Panerai dive watches, it does not disappoint.

There are bold luminous hour markers and dots, a small seconds indication at 9 o’clock, and a neat date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by the in-house P.9010 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. It is rated water-resistant to 300 meters and is priced at $17,500.

12. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Presented in a 45mm grade-5 titanium case, the Ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC from Bell & Ross is a timepiece that made waves during its launch at Baselworld six years ago. The square case design is eccentric, with a round bezel and ergonomically-constructed rocker pushers with rubber inserts.

Resting above the skeletonized movement is a transparent sapphire plate used as the dial. It features a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock for elapsed chronograph minutes and indexes of the running second, printed directly on the sapphire disc at 3 o’clock. There is an applied track on the periphery and a logo and inscription below 12, all printed in gun-metal silver color.

A small aperture for the date lies nearly at six o’clock, while the hours and minutes are indicated by metal applique Super-LumiNova-filled indices. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes mounted on a woven black rubber. Expect to spend around $18,000 for a new piece.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the 12 best watches under $20,000. I hope this brief review has offered you great options for some of the most exclusive and exquisite timepieces. Whether you are buying your first luxury watch or gifting yourself a new watch to celebrate a special occasion, Exquisite Timepieces is here to help you. Check out our large selection of authentic luxury watches for sale from world-renowned luxury brands.

Seiko Shogun Ultimate Guide

Monster, Turtle, Tuna, Sumo, Samurai, Arnie…all of these are popular nicknames attributed to Seiko watches and are a testament to just how much the Japanese Giant Watchmaker has a strong cultural presence. But Shogun? That’s one we haven’t heard of recently.

Left to obscurity and sometimes the domestic market, the Seiko Shogun has been walking in the shadow of other successful dive watches from the brand’s vast portfolio since its first appearance in 2008.

We all know that the aliases proliferating online for Seiko watches all have deeper meanings, and Shogun is not without significance either. Japanese for “military ruler”, the nickname Shogun was bestowed upon the robust diver by Seiko’s fanbase to echo the imposing presence and dominating spirit of the watch.

From the history and origin of the Seiko Shogun all the way to the iconic generations that followed its release, here is an ultimate guide to one of the most ultra-robust and accessible divers of all time.

About Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko is a brand that is respected for its commitment to producing some of the best entry-level divers in the market that has charmed collectors for decades. The story of Seiko’s diver’s line of watches can be traced to the 1960s with the Tokyo Olympics.

There was a need to produce a high-performing timepiece to help the Japanese watchmaker compete with the Swiss brands hence the launch of the first dive watch from Seiko, the 6217 (62MAS), in 1965. It doubled as the first Japanese dive watch ever with a 150-meter water resistance rating. 

Before this launch, Seiko had introduced a series of pre-divers, such as a few in the Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave collection, with 50 and 30-meter water resistance. The 62MAS, however, is recognized as the brand’s signature entry into the realm of true divers.

The first version had a small crown with reference 6217-8000 and a short production span of only 90 days. An improved version (Ref. 6217-8001) with a larger crown was released the same year. 

The watch featured all the necessary dive watch elements, including luminous hands and markers, a bi-directional rotating bezel, domed plexiglass, a date window, and a low-beat automatic movement ticking at 18,000bph.

It quickly gained popularity and was a good competitor in the dive watch market until 1967, when the 6215-8000 came on board. It was the brand’s first 300-meter professional model with a Hardlex crystal and a screw-down crown.

A year later, the 6105 model, a hotly sought-after iteration, followed. The 6105-8110, or Captain Willard, is famously worn by Martin Sheen in “Apocalypse Now”. It introduced the cushion case shape, which appears to be square with rounded sides and can be seen in the SRP collection today. 

Research and development continued as the years went by, and many iconic divers with a cult following were released. Seiko divers hold a special place in the hearts of many watch enthusiasts and continue to offer excellent performance and durability at accessible price points.

History & Origin of The Seiko “Shogun”

Immediately after its debut in 2008, the Seiko “Shogun”, officially the Ref. SBDC007, attained legendary status in the Horological sphere. The history of the iconic dive watch is themed around community involvement and a display of exceptional craftsmanship from Seiko. 

The nickname was bestowed upon the divers’ from an adoring international public. It began with the watch’s description as a “full battle armor” with “crisp lines” that evoked imagery of a warrior under attack. 

The trend continued, and like a pop out of the woodwork, Shogun was embraced by Seiko’s fanbase because of the imposing presence of the timepiece due to the armor-like elements of the case. The nickname quickly spread and became deeply ingrained in the watch’s identity, representing the dive watch’s comfort, character, value, and charm.

The Shogun is presented in a 44mm titanium case which, although lighter than steel, is highly capable of withstanding an impact without distortion. 

Coming from the Seiko Prospex line, the watch is powered by the caliber 6R15 movement, which guarantees accurate timekeeping and boasts a 50-hour power reserve with hacking and manual winding functions.

The Story of the Seiko Shogun attests to the commitment and passion of a caring community. Its alluring design, combined with excellence, undoubtedly guaranteed it a spot in watchmaking history. 

The deeper we uncover the Seiko Shogun, the more we face outstanding testaments of unique features and enduring appeal. With all these in perspective, there’s no argument that the Seiko Shogun is an iconic timepiece with a track record of excellence.

Seiko “Shogun” First Generation

The first generation of the Seiko Shogun was released in 2008. The SBDC007, along with its orange variant SBDC009 were the two dive watches to first appear in Seiko’s catalog. Let’s take a closer look at the SBDC007.

The Case & Bracelet

The case of the SBDC007 had large dimensions. It measured 44mm in diameter (without the crown) and was 13.3mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 50.75mm. Titanium was used for both the case and the bracelet, making the watch lightweight and providing a high level of resistance to corrosion and outstanding durability. 

The classic elements defining the Shogun’s distinctive feature were first evident in the case of the SBDC007, as it featured a muscular angularity with razor-sharp transitions. 

The sharp dynamism of the watch can be noticed in crown protection, robust shoulders, angled inner lugs, deeply notched bezel, and flowing bevel along the circumference of the case that results in four flawless angles where the steeply angled lug descends.  

The case is brushed on top while the sides are polished, and the screw-down crown is signed with a simple S. The screw-in case back is also polished and has a few specs engraved in it as well as the Seiko Divers Tsunami logo.

The titanium bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a secure lock, a diver’s extension, and a push-button release.

The Dial

The dial of the SBDC007 is presented in black with applied dot markers. The black surface is matte-finished, making the applied hour markers stand out all the more elegantly. At 12 o’clock, you will notice the usual inverted triangle or arrow with a line in the middle.

At 6 o’clock, there’s an italicized “Automatic” inscription, followed by “SCUBA” and then “200m” underneath it, keeping the symmetry quite balanced. Again the 6 and 9 o’clock markers are presented in sword-tip shapes that match the minute hand, while the hour hand is a reflection of the 12 o’clock marker. 

There’s a neat date window at 3 o’clock and both hands and indices have been filled with Seiko’s proprietary Lumi Brite for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The unidirectional bezel is executed in titanium and is a bit aggressive, with sharp sand-blasted knurling that gives it exceptional grip capabilities.

Movement

Under the hood of the SBDC007 is Seiko’s in-house 6R15 movement. The movement, which is just a step below most of the mainstream “high-beat” movements from Seiko, was produced in 2005. It is an upgrade from its predecessor, the 7S26, as it adds the hand winding and hacking mechanism to it. 

It operates with 23 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, keeping the second’s hand sweeping gracefully across the dial. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and is relatively accurate at +25/-15 seconds per day. The caliber 6R15 is a premium workforce and was made popular by Seiko’s SARB series, Seiko’s “Sumo”, “Alpinist”, and “62MAS Re-edition” watches.

Water Resistance

The SBDC007 is water resistant to 200 meters or 660 feet, making it a proper dive tool. This means it can be used for scuba diving and will comfortably keep accurate time when worn for other recreational water sports.

Other Models Of The First Generation

The other models of the first generation include the SBDC009 and SBDC029 and two limited editions, SPB057 and SPB099.

While the SBDC007 was popularly termed the “Black Shogun,” with its sleek and timeless design, the SBDC009 was referred to as the “Orange Shogun” because its vibrant color commanded a bold statement.

Moreover, due to Seiko’s commitment to continual innovation, loyalists eagerly awaited subsequent iterations. So, in 2015, Seiko ignited the passion of its dedicated fan base by introducing the Black Shogun Prospex (ref: SBDC029) to a zealous group of brand loyalists. 

The SBDC029 was pretty much a relaunch of the SBDC007 with little changes on the dial. Compared to the SBDC007, the dial of the SBDC029 had different dial inscriptions. It featured the Prospex “X” logo in addition to the word “Automatic”, but this time, all capitalized. 

Beneath that, you’ll see “DIVER’S 200m” neatly spelled out. Recall that the SBDC007 had an italicized “Automatic” inscription with the word “SCUBA” (not Diver’s) and then “200m” underneath it.

To cater to the desires of watch collectors, Seiko introduced limited editions of the Shogun designed exclusively for Thailand. Some of these editions were the Zimbe Shogun (ref: SPB057) and the Zimbe Red Shogun (ref: SPB099), released in 2017 and 2019, respectively.

Zimbe is a word coined from the Japanese name “Jinbe Zame”, meaning “whale shark”. The movement, case material, and layout of the dial are the same, but again, there are a few tweaks. 

The dials have a graduating scheme, and the words ‘Automatic’ at 6 o’clock have been replaced with “Limited Edition”. The SPB057J and SPB099 also feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, as well as cyclops over the date window at 3 o’clock.

Seiko “Shogun” Second Generation

The second generation of the Seiko Shogun was launched in 2020 under the reference numbers SPB191J1 and SPB189J1. The mission of this launch was to replace its predecessor with enhanced reliability and functionality, so the main upgrade is more technical than visual. 

That said, the Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 watches retain the core personality of the SBDC007 while incorporating some of the brand’s newest materials and technologies.

For dimensions, they measure 43.5mm in diameter (so still large yet able to sit comfortably), 51mm from lug to lug, and 13.3mm in thickness. The titanium case has the same angular lugs and strong shoulders with sharp crown protections for the screw-down crown. 

The case is further finished with Seiko’s super-hard coating for additional robustness. The watches still deliver all the elements of the Shogun we have come to love, such as remarkable legibility and a 200-meter water resistance rating.

Both feature a sharp-toothed unidirectional bezel like that of their predecessors with a titanium insert. The bezel of the Shogun SPB191J1 is two-toned and presented in black and anthracite, while the SPB189J1 variant has a distinctive black and bronze layout. 

Unlike the first Shogun generation, the Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 models have an upgraded sapphire crystal, which has a better scratch resistance than the Hardlex crystal found in the first generation.

The dials of the second generation also appear smoother and more rounded, resembling those on the Seiko Monster, and boast elegant triangle-shaped markers (no dots this time around) with more rounded hands.

We highlighted earlier that the main difference is more technical, which is evident in the movement mechanism. The second generation features the updated 6R35 caliber with 24 jewels and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. In contrast, the first generation uses 6R15 caliber with 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

While both movements offer hacking functionality and manual winding, the major improvement can be seen in the power reserve as the 6R35 provides 20 hours more than the 6R15.

Ultimately, the second-generation Shogun watches stand out in more ways than one. The various tweaks on the dial enhance legibility, while the improved power reserve makes it a better choice for watch enthusiasts.

Seiko “Shogun” vs Other Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko has been at the forefront of new technologies and designs since Kintarō Hattori released the brand’s first pocket watch, the Seikosha Timekeeper, in 1895.

The Seiko Shogun and other Seiko dive watches adhere to the brand’s high standards for the manufacturing of divers, garnering acclaim from professional divers all over the globe. However, the brand offers different types of diver’s watches at different price points.

Currently, there are over 120 models of divers in the Seiko Prospex collection, from mechanical watches to the solar-powered Prospex PADI Chronographs. Let’s see how the Seiko “Shogun” compares against other Seiko Dive Watches.

1. Quality

Even though Seiko has always focused on creating affordable dive watches, its watchmaking expertise and its proprietary technology have made it synonymous with high quality and expert craftsmanship.

There may be more style and functionality at almost every hundred-dollar increment when it comes to the watches in its catalog. But you can be sure that each one is made of high-quality raw materials, and the Shogun is no exception. 

All Seiko divers undergo a series of stringent lab tests to prove quality, reliability, and durability before they are released to the general public. So the Shogun, like other dive watches, is designed to last long. The protective glass of the more recent release is made up of high-grade sapphire, while the older iterations feature Hardlex crystal. 

Titanium, which is about 40% lighter than stainless steel but just as durable against impacts with similar technical and physical qualities, also gives the Shogun an edge over other dive watches from the brand.

Divers with nickel sensitivity will find the Shogun a preferable option because of the use of titanium. But, all in all, the quality is up to par with premium dive watches at the cutting edge of technology.

2. Legibility

Seiko dive watches are known for their straightforward, thoughtful, and highly legible design. Lume is always generously applied to the hands and indices with a high level of finishing on the hands and markers that not only play with the light for aesthetic purposes but also heighten the legibility of the watch.

The Shogun like many other dive watches has Seiko’s LumiBrite on the dial which glows brightly in the dark and will keep the timepiece highly legible at depths of 200 meters underwater. LumiBrite is a tremendously improved luminous paint that is completely free of radioactive elements and quickly absorbs light energy on exposure to it which it stores and emits in the dark. 

Visibility is enhanced in every detail, and the bold markers and handset of the Shogun are a testament to this. Add that to an uncluttered dial, and you have a timepiece with no compromise or distracting ornamentation, a feature of every dive watch from the Seiko. 

3. Movement

Seiko dive watches use three different movement variations. First, we have automatic or mechanical movements (such as the 6R35 in the Shogun) which are self-winding and work by harnessing the kinetic energy from the wearer’s natural movements. 

Some other dive watches utilize quartz. This means they are powered by a battery that transfers an electric current via the quartz crystal, thus creating vibration and oscillation. The electric pulse from this oscillating movement then powers a small electric motor that turns the gears in the watch. 

The last set of dive watches uses solar energy and works by converting light energy into electrical energy, which it stores in the rechargeable battery and ultimately uses to power the watch. The first generation of the Shogun used the 6R15 caliber, while the second generation is powered by the 6R35 caliber.

The latter is an evolution of the 6R15 movement and is found in many mid-range Prospex watches. Even though it’s not a very accurate movement, it is robust, reliable, easy to service, and offers great value for money. Quartz divers win in terms of accuracy and convenience. 

Even though the 6R15 and 6R35 of the Shogun serve their purpose and count as a reliable power horses, the accuracy is poor. You will find them in dive watches that typically span the $300-$600 range, including famous dive watches like the ‘Sumo’ (Seiko SPB103J1) and the Seiko Prospex Recreation (Ref. SPB053J1).

4. Design

When compared with other dive watches from Seiko, the Shogun utilizes the same layout but adds something a little extra. The element of beauty in The Shogun can be found in the interplay of sharp angles and flat surfaces that interact beautifully with light and shadow to create a striking aesthetic effect. 

When you look at the SPB189 & SPB191, you can see the standard divers watch feature with rounded sides and integrated lugs but the sharp lines and resilience of the Shogun are quite distinctive. 

Seiko knows better than to change a proven recipe, so every feature in the Prospex collection that is loved can be seen here. I mean the overall design (which is close to that of a Samurai watch), the reasonable price, and of course, the overall performance. 

So there are no major differences, only little tweaks here and there that make the watch appear more angular, creating a beautiful contrast, light on one side and shadow on the other to create an element of beauty.

At the core, the Shogun is just like other dive watches from Seiko with a polished and brushed case, screwed case back, a screw-down crown (both guaranteeing a 200m water resistance), and a highly legible dial.

5. Price

In terms of value for money, the Seiko Shogun holds its ground against other Seiko dive watches. When comparing prices, the Seiko Shogun is competitively priced within the dive watch market. 

The Seiko Monster, for instance, starts at around $250. The Seiko Samurai is priced at about $525, while the Seiko Turtle hovers around the $400 mark. The Seiko Tuna series, known for its durability, can range in price from $300 to over $800, depending on the model and condition.

While these other dive watches have unique features and price points, the Seiko Shogun remains compelling. 

The Seiko Shogun stands out on its own merits, but it is one of the most expensive entry-level dive watches from the Japanese Giant Watchmaker because titanium is used for the case and strap. Titanium watches are generally more expensive than stainless steel.  

Even though the latter is abundant and readily available, it is more difficult to process and costs more to purchase and repair hence the higher price.

Whether you’re a sports enthusiast, an adventure seeker, or simply appreciate a high-quality dive watch, the Seiko Shogun offers a compelling package that will impress you; however, prepare to spend a bit more for it.

Should You Buy A Seiko “Shogun”?

The Shogun is a timepiece that commands instant attention. Depending on the vendor and model, you can get the Shogun anywhere from $1,200 to $3,500 for a brand-new model, and it’s no longer news that its titanium case sets it apart from other watches in the Seiko Prospex collection. Here are four reasons why you should consider adding Seiko Shogun to your collection.

  • The value is just incredible.

The Shogun is a watch synonymous with excellent quality, fit, and finish. You will instantly recognize the high quality when you hold it in your hands. The watch is designed to be robust, reliable, and dependable.

  • It is built using high-quality materials.

Titanium is one of the strongest materials out there, with a higher strength-to-density ratio when compared to stainless steel. The robustness of the case and bracelet of the Shogun will ensure longevity and durability, making it a watch you could wear every day for years without the slightest sign of getting worn out. From the onset, Seiko has never sacrificed durability in the making of any component, including the movement, which doesn’t change with the Shogun.

  • Enhanced legibility in every detail.

From the hands to the hour markers and bezel, the high level of legibility can be seen in almost every detail. If you want a durable watch for underwater exploration, you need to be able to read it. Seiko knows this, and the Shogun will always remain one of the most legible divers. A generous application of Lumibrite on the hands, indexes, and bezel means that time can be read correctly from any angle and at any depth, adding to the watch’s appeal.

  •  200 meters of water resistance.

The water resistance rating of the Shogun makes the dive watch reliable and suitable for the sport it is named for and for a great many underwater adventures. It can also be worn during sailing, surfing, and even fishing. 

Concerning availability and price. The SPB189 & SPB191 are readily available and can be gotten from authorized dealers from Seiko worldwide. If you want a budget-friendly option, a pre-owned Shogun can be bought anywhere from $750 up, but you can purchase a new piece of the Shogun SPB189 here and Shogun SPB191 right here for $ and $1,350 respectively.

Conclusion

Let’s be honest. The Seiko Shogun isn’t for everyone. If you like the concept of a timepiece with an imposing presence, large dimensions, and premium features, then it’s a great option. However, the size and muscularity might not appeal to everyone, which is just fine. 

Alternatives that can offer much of the Shogun’s features and charm can be found within the Seiko lineup. The Shogun, however, will forever remain one of Seiko’s emblematic dive watches beloved by devoted collectors, mostly because of its robustness and lightweight titanium case.

best watches under 10,000

In a world where there are so many incredible watches out in the wild, it can be challenging to pick out the absolute best ones for the money. Now more than ever, it is important to do a lot of research before making that big purchase and adding another beautiful timepiece to your collection. 

There are plenty of resources out there to understand every detail about your future dream watch, and we’ve created a list of the best watches in the under $10,000 category. Within this budget, an amazing assortment of watches awaits you! 

What to Look for in Watches Under $10,000

When you’re looking for a new watch under $10,000, there are several important things to consider. All of these factors should play a role as you carefully decide on your next timepiece.

Watch Purpose

Of course, the actual purpose of this watch is definitely something to keep in mind. Will it be a versatile piece that can do it all? Or will it have a specific purpose, like for formal situations or diving? 

Some collectors have a watch for every situation, while others have found peace with the perfect one-watch collection. Add pieces to your collection until you feel you’ve covered everything you want your watches to do. 

Brand Reputation

When you purchase a watch, you become a part of that brand’s exclusive club. You can proudly tell others that, yes, you own a Seiko, a Rolex, an Omega, or any other brand. Brand reputation matters for someone looking to fulfill their own personal requirements of what makes a watch brand amazing. The brand also affects how others perceive your watch. 

Build Quality & Finishing

Without a doubt, the build quality and finishing need to be top-notch for every watch that you are considering. Your money should be spent on something you know will last and look marvelous for a long time. At a certain point, superb build quality and finishing are to be expected and not just a nice bonus on a watch.

Movement

The movement is the lifeblood of every watch. Depending on the budget, movements can range from popular, mass-produced ones to high-end, in-house masterpieces. These movements will power the watch and must be carefully taken care of. Regular maintenance and servicing will inevitably be a part of owning a timepiece. The right movement will be both functional and beautiful to behold. 

Value Retention

Value retention, or how well a watch can keep its perceived value, is an important factor to consider for investment-minded people. Some people are thrilled with their timepieces and don’t pay attention to market performance.

However, some enthusiasts greatly care about the perceived market value of their watch. In this case, hot and popular models from established brands may be the best choice for these individuals. 

The Best Watches Under $10000

We’ve broken down the 25 best watches under $10,000 into four distinct categories. This will make it easier to find a watch that suits your specific needs. Without further ado, let’s take a look at some of the pieces available in the fantastic world of watchmaking! 

Everyday Watches

Everyday watches can do it all. They will fit any situation and are perfect for someone who wants a versatile and robust timepiece. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (ref. 124300)

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (ref. 124300)

We start this list off with one of the most recognizable watches out there: a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. An everyday watch is suitable for almost any situation, and a trusty Oyster Perpetual is definitely a good candidate for this category. 

The Oyster Perpetual is purely a time-only watch with no additional complications. However, you are getting access to the Rolex brand, its incredible quality, and its elevated status. This particular reference has a silvery dial with light gold accents and Rolex’s signature Oyster bracelet. 

The caliber 3230 is hidden behind the blank, Oystersteel caseback and is highly accurate and regulated to ensure accuracy up to 2 seconds a day. This modern-sized 41mm Rolex can fit nearly any wrist and can be yours for $8,700

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

It’s hard not to be entranced by a Grand Seiko. There’s something truly special about each piece, and you can easily get lost in the beautiful dial. Perhaps it is the extraordinary Zaratsu polishing that creates a sharp mirror finish.

It might also be the incredible value you’re getting with any Grand Seiko, which can easily stand against much more expensive watches. The “Snowflake” is a masterpiece from Grand Seiko and embodies the brand’s dedication to fine Japanese watchmaking. The star of the show is the dial, which resembles freshly fallen snow.

The watch is powered by the famed Spring Drive movement, which makes the blued steel second hand glide around the dial. The movement’s 72-hour power reserve can be tracked via the handy power reserve indicator on the dial. The 41mm titanium “Snowflake” is available for $6,200 through official Grand Seiko dealers. 

Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Black (ref. 542.NX.1171.RX)

Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Black (ref. 542.NX.1171.RX)

Hublot’s everyday watch is a lightweight, titanium piece that comes in various sizes. This model is a very wearable 42mm, making it easily noticeable on the wrist. Any Hublot is bound to be noticed from across the room anyway, and curious onlookers will probably see Hublot’s distinctive porthole-shaped case and signature screws around the bezel. 

The rubber strap is also worth mentioning. It is extremely comfortable and durable, and Hublot has made a name for itself for its quality rubber straps. Beating inside the Classic Fusion is the HUB1110, based on a Sellita SW-300. This self-winding movement has a 42-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. The handsome Classic Fusion can be yours for approximately $8,500

Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 115 (ref. 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC)

Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 115 (ref. 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC)

Oris is constantly innovating its lineup, and the skeletal 44mm Pro Pilot X is the perfect embodiment of this. As one of the few independently owned Swiss brands, Oris can fully control every aspect of its watchmaking. The Pro Pilot X is a stunning watch with a skeletonized dial that exposes every part of the beautiful caliber 115 movement. 

You’ll be able to see every small moving piece working in unison to power this watch’s enormous 10-day power reserve. The power reserve is easily seen with the handy indicator at 3 o’clock. This movement is one of the first in-house movements from Oris, and it is truly a wonder to behold. For $8,000, you’ll be wearing a mechanical marvel on your wrist.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere (ref. MB119286)

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere pays homage to daring mountain climbers who constantly push themselves to the limit in pursuit of adventure and exploration. One of the main features of the 1858 Geosphere is the innovative new world-time complication developed in-house by Montblanc. 

The two spheres located at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock rotate in opposite directions. These globes display the 24-hour time and indicate whether it is day or night. Another reference to mountain climbing is the seven red dots on the globes. These dots represent the seven highest mountains of each continent in the world. 

This 41.5mm timepiece is crafted with a mix of hard ceramic and stainless steel and is powered by Montblanc’s MB29.25 automatic movement, providing a 42-hour power reserve and high accuracy. This homage to adventure and mountain climbing can be found on Montblanc’s website for $6,300. 

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC’s modern 40mm pilot watch would be a worthy everyday watch due to its legibility, utility, and high quality. Long known for its association with the military and aviation, IWC has taken the traditional pilot watch design and perfected it. The large, sword-style hands are sharply cut and filled with a generous amount of lume. 

Legibility is one of this watch’s greatest strengths. The clearly printed white numerals are large and easy to read, and the dial is lined by a bright minute tracker. This watch can be found on the wrists of career aviators and eager enthusiasts.

Inside this robust timepiece is IWC’s caliber 3211 automatic movement, a precise movement that offers a whopping 120 hours of power reserve. The Mark XX is also outfitted with IWC’s new EasX-CHANGE system, making customizing strap options easy. The Mark XX can be yours for $6,150

Chronograph Watches

Chronograph watches are able to measure time like a stopwatch. These highly technical pieces require specially modified movements to create this helpful feature. 

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001)

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is a timepiece well-known throughout the watch world and is one of the best chronographs on the market. Omega has indeed found massive success with the Moonwatch’s timeless design and iconic link to space travel. The Moonwatch is a living legend. Some people might call it the only watch you will ever need. 

This version of the Moonwatch stays true to its original design, even using a domed Hesalite crystal. Although more prone to scratches, simple maintenance will leave the crystal looking good as new. The 42mm Moonwatch is outfitted with the OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 3861 movement, and just like the original, it is also hand-wound. You can obtain a piece of history for $6,600.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

The Navitimer is one of the most famous Breitling models. Its large, bold design and distinctive chronograph feature are unmistakable. The watch face looks even larger due to the thin bezel surrounding the 43mm case. This is a watch that certainly isn’t going to be slipping under a dress shirt any time soon. 

The Navitimer dial is filled with numerous features initially designed to help pilots perform necessary flight calculations. It can be difficult for an untrained eye to utilize the Navitimer to its fullest potential, but that shouldn’t stop anyone from having a Navitimer in their collection. 

This new iteration of the Navitimer has a domed sapphire crystal and retains many classic elements of older models that fans are sure to love. The caliber B01 is an in-house Breitling creation and is rigorously tested for accuracy. This iconic watch can be yours for $9,700, which is one of the more expensive watches on the list. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A3817 (ref. 03.A384.400/3817.M3817)

Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A3817 (ref. 03.A384.400/3817.M3817)

As the name suggests, the highly attractive Chronomaster Revival El Primero is a modern interpretation of the A3817 that was released in 1971. Zenith is credited for releasing the world’s first automatic chronograph movement in 1969, hence the name “El Primero.”

This high-frequency movement beats at 36,000vph and has a respectable 50-hour power reserve. The 37mm dial sits on top of a classic tonneau-shaped case. This case and the ladder-style bracelet are a vintage design that will remain timeless.

There is a lot of visual interest in the dial due to the different colors on the chronograph sub-dials—blue, silver, and black contrast with the white dial and black chapter ring. There is also a tachymeter scale around the bezel. This Chronomaster is a triumphant remake of one of Zenith’s most successful models. This legacy watch is available for $9,000.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Tudor has found remarkable success with the Black Bay collection. Long seen as Rolex’s sister brand, Tudor has made huge strides in creating its own identity. The Black Bay collection is one of the ways that Tudor is making a name for themselves. The Black Bay Chrono is a sporty chronograph watch with Tudor’s signature snowflake-shaped hands.

These blocky hands are also found in numerous other Tudor models. There are multiple color variations for the Black Bay Chrono, including a panda dial or a golden champagne dial. Despite not being a dedicated dive watch, this watch has a respectable 200m of water resistance, indicated by the bright red text on the panda dial. The chronograph buttons are also screw-down and highly watertight.

Inside this amazing chronograph is the COSC-certified caliber MT5813. This movement is a modified variant of an earlier in-house movement created by Breitling in 2009. It has a 70-hour power reserve and is a mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system. Get your very own Black Bay Chrono for a very reasonable $5,450

TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

The Monaco is a watch that is just effortlessly cool. Everything from its unique square design, association with motorsports and famous icons, and iconic status makes this undoubtedly one of the best watches you can purchase for under $10,000. There are numerous color choices available for the Monaco, and this particular model we are showcasing is blue with red accents. 

Like the original Monaco worn by Steve McQueen, the crown is located on the left side. The chronograph pusher buttons are a rounded square shape located on the right side. The chronograph dials at 3 and 9 o’clock positions are also square in shape, matching the case shape. 

The case is 39mm, but the shape of the case definitely makes the watch seem more significant than it is. The strap has an asphalt finish, another reference to motorsports. Inside the Moncao is Tag Huer’s caliber 11 movement, an automatic chronograph movement that has a standard power reserve of 40 hours. This amazing piece of racing history is available for $7,800.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chrono (ref. 168589-3002)

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chrono (ref. 168589-3002)

The Mille Miglia takes its inspiration from the Italian motorsport race of the same name. Chopard is heavily involved in the racing scene, being the official timekeeper of numerous races around the world. This Mille Miglia Chronograph is sure to delight both racing fans and watch enthusiasts.

The dial is large, and the exact seconds and minutes can easily be tracked with clear indicators around the dial. There is also a tachymeter, which can measure speed over distance. This makes calculations for neck and neck races easier to calculate.

The strap resembles the tires of motorsport vehicles, with a distinctive grooved, rubber pattern. The 42mm Mille Miglia is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement from Chopard, which is a certified chronometer. This jewel of racing is available for $6,650. 

Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph (ref. L3.821.4.53.6)

Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph (ref. L3.821.4.53.6)

Any watch stamped with Longines’ famous winged hourglass logo is definitely going to be a stunning watch. Longines’ Spirit collection is relatively new and has proven to be a hit with watch fans. The amazing, high-quality timepieces in this collection are a mix of heritage and modern, with sleek designs that resonate with their audience. 

The case is extremely well-constructed and features a ceramic bi-directional bezel. This large, 42mm watch sits comfortably on the wrist. The bracelet gently tapers and bends around the wrist effortlessly. On the dial, the hands and markers are a slight, pale gold, and there are notably five stars at the bottom of the dial. 

These stars are a sign of a highly accurate movement, the caliber L791.4. This COSC-certified chronometer has a column wheel and flyback function with a sizable 68-hour power reserve. This Spirit chronograph is available for $4,550.

Dive Watches

Dive watches are extremely popular and are able to survive nearly any challenge that it comes across. Some of the most defining features of timepieces in this category are high water resistance and increased durability. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5100-1140-O52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5100-1140-O52A)

The Fifty Fathoms collection is a testament to Blancpain’s long association with diving and underwater exploration. After all, this brand was one of the first to introduce a modern diving watch. This model’s very name, Bathyscaphe, takes inspiration from the deep sea diving vessel used for underwater exploration. 

Indeed, the 300m of water resistance is more than enough for almost any professional or casual diver. The dial is simple and legible, with a timeless design that has helped divers for decades. The blocky hands and markers are filled with a generous amount of lume to make telling the time even easier. The case construction is also exceptional. It is made of satin-brushed steel and the edges are smooth and expertly finished. 

Inside the modest 38mm case is caliber 1150, a masterpiece from Blancpain. This movement is relatively thin, comprises 210 tiny parts, and has a 100-hour power reserve. This watch is available for $10,100, which is slightly above our limit. However, that extra $100 goes towards a historic brand that garners huge respect. 

Panerai Submersible (ref. PAM02973)

Panerai Submersible (ref. PAM02973)

The Panerai Submersible looks like a heavy submarine ready for battle. Everything from the large 42mm size and bulky case design to the elaborate crown guard shows that this watch means business. True to its name, the watch features 300m of water resistance and can survive any underwater excursion.

This model has a strong wrist presence and will not be found under any dress sleeve. The weight of the stainless steel case is cut down by using a comfortable rubber strap that bends to fit any wrist shape. One of the most exciting features of the watch is the brushed bezel.

The markings are etched into the steel and have a very utilitarian look. The dial is a rich black color with white and blue accents. Hidden behind the solid caseback is the caliber P.900 automatic movement, which has a large 72-hour power reserve and is equipped with anti-shock capabilities. The Submersible is available for $9,500. 

Seiko Prospex LX SNR029

Seiko has a watch for everyone at any price bracket. The SNR029 is part of the vast Seiko Prospex collection, one of Seiko’s most famous lines. These dive watches are engineered to be the best in their class for professional and serious divers.

The SNR029 is one of the most advanced Prospex watches because of the high-quality materials and Seiko’s famous Spring Drive movement. The case is constructed out of titanium treated with an extra coating to make it super durable. The Spring Drive movement is normally found in most Grand Seiko luxury watches; however, it makes an appearance here as well.

The caliber 5R65 Spring Drive movement has a large 72-hour power reserve and is a unique blend of mechanical and electrical parts. To help with diving, there is a large screw-down crown, a unidirectional bezel, and an extra secure clasp on the bracelet. This highly technical dive watch is available for $6,000. 

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

The SeaQ is a luxurious dive watch with a distinctive arrow-shaped second hand. It is based on a vintage design from 1969. This 39.5mm dive watch is perfect for anyone looking for something unique in their collection. The highly satisfying and responsive unidirectional rotating bezel makes setting the dive time easy. The large numerals around the dial and the bezel are filled with Super-Luminova lume.

The hands and numerals are a light patina color, which provides a lot of warm visual interest. The stainless steel case has been finished with refined vertical brush finishing. Underneath the caseback, which has a deep engraving of a trident, is the caliber 39-11. This highly detailed movement with a custom rotor and fine finishing has a 40-hour power reserve. The SeaQ is available for $9,900.

Bremont Supermarine S502 Jet

Bremont Supermarine S502 Jet

Bremont is an exciting British watch brand that proudly provides exceptional timepieces for military professionals. The 43mm Supermarine is a tactical all-black watch with a handy true GMT feature. GMT watches are extremely useful because they can track another timezone. 

The Supermarine’s yellow GMT hand stands out from the scratch-resistant black dial, case, and rubber strap. This yellow GMT hand will also be highly legible under the water. This watch’s remarkable 500m of water resistance is achieved through the helium escape valve, screw-in caseback, expert construction, and increased antishock capabilities. 

The Bremont caliber BE-93-2AE automatic chronometer is a modified ETA2892, a true workhorse movement with 42 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. The Supermarine is available for approximately $4,000. 

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte (ref. BR0392-D-BL-CE/SRB)

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte (ref. BR0392-D-BL-CE/SRB)

One look at this intense watch is enough to see the clear military inspiration behind it. Bell & Ross is one of the few luxury French brands with a strong military association and creates highly technical, durable timepieces for professionals.

This dive watch looks almost bulletproof, thanks to the sleek, matte black dial, rubber strap, and ceramic case design. The ceramic material is highly scratch-resistant and quite comfortable. The case shape is similar to other Bell & Ross watches and fits quite well for a 42mm watch.

Underneath the highly eligible matte black dial is the BR-CAL.302 automatic movement, which is based on the Sellita SW300. It offers a reasonable 38-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. This rugged watch can be yours for a reasonable $4,600. 

Dress Watches

Dress watches are normally reserved for formal occasions and are elegant, understated timepieces that can easily fit under any dress sleeve.

Cartier Santos Medium (ref. WSSA0029)

Cartier Santos Medium (ref. WSSA0029)

Most Cartier Santos models are extremely similar to each other and have used the same winning design for years and years now. This medium-sized version of the classic Santos has all the features you would expect to see on this flagship model from Cartier.

The blued hands, a blue jewel on the crown, and branding on the 7 o’clock Roman numeral are all there. One of the newest innovations to this classic design is the new “QuickSwitch” system. This makes switching between the metal bracelet and included calfskin strap extremely easy.

Another innovation is the “SmartLink” adjustment system, which lets wearers adjust the bracelet to fit them perfectly without any tools necessary. These fantastic additions to the Santos make the timepiece a blend of modern and traditional. The Santos Medium is available for $7,050.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds (ref. Q3858522)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds (ref. Q3858522)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is considered a dress watch by many. However, the model was originally designed to be a sports watch, able to survive a hard-fought polo match. One of the watch’s main features is the ability to flip the entire watch face around to protect the dial from outside damage.

This curious, rectangular watch is relatively thin but highly durable. It looks incredible on nearly any wrist and is packed with fine details, including the finely textured center dial and blued hands. The comfortable, smooth leather strap is from the unique Fagliano Collection, resulting from a collaboration between Jaeger-LeCoultre and artisan leather makers Casa Fagliano.

The Reverso’s caliber 822 movement has been perfectly molded to fit the rectangular case and is proudly stamped with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s statement that the watch has been adjusted to five positions. This classic watch is available for $10,600.    

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Every Grand Seiko comes with a story. For the SBGY007, that story begins with winter snow over Lake Suwa. Grand Seiko loves to craft romantic, imaginative imagery for many of their watches. The Elegance collection is a series of elegant and clean dress watches. The main attraction of this watch is, of course, the ethereal, icy white dial that looks like snow falling on blue waters. 

The dial is symmetrical and simple, highlighting the dial and blued seconds hand. The 38.5mm case features Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing, a technique that creates a mirror finish on each surface. Of course, Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement is also inside this watch, creating a buttery smooth seconds hand that glides around the dial. The Elegance is available for $8,300.

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.02.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.02.001)

The Globemaster is a masterful feat of engineering from Omega. As part of the Constellation series, the Globemaster is a beautiful dress watch with some serious horology backing it up. Omega proudly proclaims the Globemaster as the world’s first Master Chronometer.

This means that the timepiece has been certified by two powerful organizations in the watchmaking world: COSC and METAS. Essentially, it means the Globemaster is a certified masterpiece made with the absolute highest quality. The dial is clean and symmetrical, with a star at the 6 o’clock position.

The star is another reference to the Constellation series, Omega’s dreamy lineup of dress watches. Behind the sapphire glass caseback is a medallion of the famous observatory seen in many Constellation watches. Powering the Globemaster is the caliber 8900, a self-winding movement with a co-axial escapement with anti-magnetic properties. For $7,100, you’ll have a dress watch that demands respect. 

Laine V38 Frosted

Laine is an independent Swiss watch brand that creates handcrafted masterpieces in their workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. In a list filled with recognizable names like Rolex and Omega, Laine stands out from all the rest with breathtaking movements and impeccable attention to detail. 

The Frosted model is available in a few different finishes, one with a “Moondust” granular finish or a slightly more expensive option with a meteorite or center guilloche. No matter your choice, you are getting a dress watch that will turn heads. The 38mm watch has a symmetrical dial, with the main point of interest being the two circles in the middle of the dial.

The “Moondust” option is particularly stunning and really stays true to the Frosted name. Flipping the watch to its back reveals the gorgeous Vaucher 5401 movement. It is filled with tiny, precise details. The rotor is hand-engraved with a custom design, and the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes. One of these highly coveted pieces can be yours for approximately $10,000.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65

The final watch on this list is Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence. This perfectly sized 40mm dress watch is clean, symmetrical, and sophisticated. The stainless steel case is polished and satin-finished provides depth and interest to this dressy timepiece.

On the second hand is the brand’s double G logo. This logo is also found on the fluted crown. The dial is a cleanly finished matte black color with Arabic numerals that are filled with generous amounts of lume. 

Behind the sapphire glass caseback is the caliber 36-01, one of the most impressive movements that Glashütte Original produces. It has a substantial 100-hour power reserve and is finely decorated. The double G logo is found on the skeletonized rotor, and the oscillation weight is made of 21-carat gold. The Senator Excellence is available for approximately $9,000. 

Conclusion 

A list of the absolute best watches under $10,000 is a challenging task, but we have assembled some of the best timepieces on the market for you today. Any one of these superb pieces would be an incredible addition to your wardrobe.

Whether you’re looking for a watch with a specific purpose, or a watch that can do it all, there’s something on here that will definitely catch your eye. The hunt for a new timepiece is so exciting, and your next watch might be here! 

best 34mm watches for men

Watch brands have been releasing smaller-sized wristwatches in the past several years, and I believe this trend is here to stay. The days of mammoth-sized watches from the 2000s are fading, and 34mm seems to be the neutral size for all wrists. 

Although 34mm may sound small for a male wrist, during the 1960s and 1970s, wristwatches were typically 34-35mm in size, and that was accepted as a men’s size. Now let’s learn about a variety of watch case sizes and how 34mm can be the sweet spot.

Watch Sizes for Men

Men’s watches are typically sized 38mm and above, but this can vary depending on the type of watch. For instance, dress watches are usually smaller in size (ranging from 34mm to 38mm) as they are intended to be worn for formal events. 

These watches are designed to fit discreetly under a dress shirt cuff, so they tend to have a slim profile. The purpose of a dress watch is to complement one’s outfit without drawing too much attention. Examples of such timepieces include the Cartier Tank, which features a simple white dial and two hands, meeting the criteria for an elegant dress watch.

Another example of men’s watches is tool watches, which are typically larger in size due to their specific functions. Two prominent types of tool watches are dive watches and pilot watches.

Dive watches are traditionally larger because they serve a practical purpose. While modern divers rely on dive computers, divers used dive watches like the Rolex Submariner in the past. These watches feature luminescent markers on the dials and rotating bezels, allowing divers to measure their underwater activities’ duration. The larger size of dive watches was functional, as it facilitated easy readability and operation in underwater conditions.

Similarly, pilot watches are also known for their larger dimensions. Originally designed for aviators, pilot watches emphasized legibility and functionality. The larger size allowed pilots to quickly and easily read the time, even under challenging circumstances. Additionally, pilot watches often incorporated features like large crowns to assist pilots’ ability to wind the watch while wearing gloves. 

Which Watch Size is the Right Size for You?

Watches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. However, when determining the ideal size of a watch, the case size alone is not the sole factor to consider. The lug-to-lug measurement plays a crucial role in how well a timepiece wears on the wrist.

This measurement provides an accurate reflection of how the watch will fit and if there will be any overhang. Even if a watch appears wide, as long as it does not extend beyond the wrist, it can still be considered wearable.

For instance, the Panerai Radiomir is large at 45mm in case size, yet it wears compactly without any overhang on my wrist size of 6 inches. By taking into account both the case size and the lug-to-lug measurement, one can ensure a comfortable and well-fitting watch on their wrist.

Considering these factors when choosing a watch is important to ensure optimal wearability and a satisfying overall experience. In my opinion, 38-40mm tends to be the ideal size for wristwatches, and it strikes as a well-balanced size.

Should You Purchase a 34mm Watch?

This question is indeed personal and subjective. If you have wrists that are 16cm or smaller, then a 34mm size can be a suitable choice. However, it’s important to note that 34mm may not be suitable for everyone, especially if you have larger wrists, as it could appear disproportionately small and even comical.

Ultimately, the decision to purchase and wear a 34mm watch is a personal one. It’s important to consider your individual style preferences, wrist size, and how the timepiece looks and feels on your wrist. While getting different perspectives can be helpful, ultimately, you should choose a watch size that you feel comfortable and confident wearing.

Remember that watch sizes are based on personal taste. It’s always a good idea to try on different watch sizes and styles to determine what works best for you. Now let’s delve into the list of 34mm watches and look at them in further detail below.

The Best 34mm Watches for Men

1. Casio World Time (ref. A500WGA-9)

Casio is renowned as the king of affordable watches, offering timepieces as low as under $20 with models like the F91W. Casio produces excellent starter watches as well as durable “beater” watches like the G-Shock series. Now, let’s review the Casio World Time timepiece, which features a 34mm case size.

The Casio World Time watch exudes a retro charm with its gold plating that harkens back to the 1980s. It is the only watch on this list incorporating a digital display, adding to its unique appeal.

With a 34mm wide case, 38mm lug-to-lug measurement, and 9.6mm thickness, the watch offers a compact and sleek design. Weighing only 50g, it provides a light and enjoyable wearing experience. The Casio World Time features a positive LCD display, ensuring excellent legibility.

The case includes two buttons on both sides for easy-function controls, and the clasp is equipped with a clip-on mechanism for convenient adjustability.Overall, the Casio World Time watch is a delightful timepiece with a distinct charm. With a retail price of $48, it remains affordable, making it an attractive option for those seeking both style and value.

2. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex made a significant comeback with the release of the modern Marlin collection in 2017. This collection is a re-issue of the original Timex Marlin from the 1960s, marking Timex’s first mechanical watch release since 1982.

During the height of the Marlin hype in 2017, a friend of mine took advantage of the craze and purchased several Marlin timepieces, ultimately flipping them for a nice profit.

Now, let’s delve into the specifications of this Marlin re-issue. The case size is 34mm, with a thickness of 10mm. The Marlin offers various dial variations and colors, ranging from silver to black. The hour markers consist of Arabic numerals for even hours and stick markers for odd hours. With a water resistance of 30 meters, the Marlin is suitable for dress watch purposes.

The watch’s crystal is made of acrylic, which is relatively easy to buff out minor scratches. One drawback of the Marlin is its Chinese-made manual winding movement, manufactured by Seagull. Limited information is available about this movement. 

Overall, the Marlin exudes an old-world charm. It is a simple yet exquisite dressy timepiece, available at an affordable price of $209. Additionally, Timex often provides discount codes, allowing customers to pay less. 

3. Seiko Presage SRP841J1

Seiko Presage SRP841J1

Seiko offers exceptional value for money. One particular Seiko watch we will review is the Presage SRP841J1 from the Cocktail collection. This collection is known for its dressier timepieces. The SRP841J1 has a case size of 34mm and is marketed by Seiko as a ladies’ watch.

However, as we have learned, size is not limited to a specific gender, and this watch can be enjoyed by individuals of all genders. The watch’s dial is the standout feature, showcasing a silver color with beautiful blue hues. It features a unique design resembling a folding Chinese-style fan arranged in a circular pattern.

When light hits the dial, it creates a mesmerizing effect, adding to its visual appeal. The Hardlex domed shape of the crystal creates a visually pleasing effect, particularly when viewed from different angles. Additionally, the domed crystal can cause a slight distortion effect at the outer edges, adding further visual interest to the timepiece.

As a simple three-handed watch, the SRP841J1 includes a date indicator positioned at the 3 o’clock marker. The hour markers consist of applied indices, except for the 3 o’clock position. This watch serves as an excellent entry point into dressier timepieces.

Lastly, the SRP841J1 is attractively priced at $450, making it affordable for enthusiasts looking to own a Seiko timepiece from the Presage collection. 

4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

I have yet to own a Marathon timepiece in my watch-collecting journey, but I am familiar with the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches for U.S. military personnel. The timepiece we will review is the General Purpose Mechanical (referred to as the GPM).

The GPM features a case made of High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, which ensures exceptional lightness and durability. With a case size of 34mm and a thickness of 11mm, it strikes a balanced profile. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch-resistant properties.

The GPM houses the Seiko NH35A movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping. It has a water resistance rating of 3ATM, making it suitable for light water splashes. A standout feature of Marathon watches is the use of tritium tubes for low-light viewing.

These tubes contain fluorescent chemicals that automatically emit a glow in low-light environments. While your eyes may require a moment to adjust, once the tubes are fully activated, they emit a strong and colorful brightness.

The General Purpose Mechanical is a robust military field watch designed to withstand demanding conditions. It carries a price tag of $420, often discounted by Marathon, offering enthusiasts an opportunity to own a durable and reliable timepiece at a more affordable price.

5. Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto (ref. H70365133)

Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto (ref. H70365133)

Until recently, I was unaware that Hamilton offered a Khaki Field Watch in 34mm, which highlights the brand’s commitment to catering to a wide range of wrist sizes. The Khaki collection spans from 34mm to 44mm, demonstrating that Hamilton understands the importance of offering diverse sizes for their watch models.

The Khaki Field Officer Auto in 34mm features a case with a thickness of 10.4mm. The dial is black, and the hour markers consist of Arabic numerals, with larger numerals at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions. Positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, there is a date indicator integrated into the dial. This Khaki Auto watch includes three hands, with a red arrow adorning the tip of the second hand, adding a subtle touch of color.

With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Khaki Field Officer Auto is well-suited for various activities. It houses an ETA 2824 automatic movement, a reliable and widely recognized movement in the watch industry. This choice of movement is fitting for a military field watch, as it ensures dependable performance whenever you need it.

It’s worth noting that the Officer in this size has been discontinued. However, if you are interested in acquiring one, the secondary market may offer opportunities to find this timepiece. The Khaki Field Officer Auto carries a rich heritage and boasts an appealing design that captures the essence of a military field watch.

6. Victorinox Maverick Small Black 34 mm (ref. 241701)

 Victorinox Maverick Small Black 34 mm (ref. 241701)

Victorinox, renowned for being the original maker of Swiss Army Knives since 1884, has established a reputation for producing high-quality products. Their expertise in craftsmanship extends to their line of durable watches.

The watch under review is the Maverick Small Black, featuring a 34mm case diameter that sits thinly at 8mm. Inspired by dive watches, this Maverick model includes a unidirectional bezel. However, it’s important to note that despite its dive-inspired design, it offers a water resistance rating of 100m, which may limit its suitability for extensive diving activities.

The black dial of the watch is adorned with Arabic numerals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, contributing to its legibility. The presence of a date indicator at the 6 o’clock position ensures symmetrical aesthetics.

It’s worth mentioning that due to its 34mm case size and the inclusion of a diver’s bezel, the actual dial of the watch may appear relatively small when worn on the wrist. Therefore, trying on the watch before making a purchase is advisable to ensure the desired fit and appearance.

The Maverick Small is a straightforward, no-frills dive-style watch. With a retail price of $595, it is one of the more affordable options on this list.

7. Longines Conquest 34mm (ref. L3.377.4.58.6)

Longines Conquest 34mm (ref. L3.377.4.58.6)

Longines, renowned for its heritage, quality, and brand recognition, holds a prominent position within the Swatch Group. Therefore, it comes as no surprise to find a Longines timepiece on this list, particularly in a 34mm size.

The Conquest 34mm, although marketed as a ladies’ watch, shares the same aesthetics as its larger counterparts in the 39mm, 41mm, and 43mm case versions. However, it’s important to note that the 34mm case version features a quartz movement instead of an automatic movement, resulting in a downgrade.

The Conquest 34mm serves as an excellent everyday timepiece, boasting a simple dial layout. The 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions are marked with numerals, while the remaining hour markers feature stick markers. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark is a date indicator with a small cut-off marker, maintaining a balanced design.

A potential downside of this watch lies in the design and size of the crown and crown guards. The crown is too long, potentially causing discomfort on the wrist. Additionally, the sharp and edgy crown guards pose a similar issue.

Regrettably, the Conquest 34mm model has been discontinued, necessitating a search in the secondary market to buy it. 

8. Junghans Max Bill 34mm Manual Wind (ref. 27/3701.02)

 Junghans Max Bill 34mm Manual Wind (ref. 27/3701.02)

Junghans epitomizes the concept of “less is more,” and their Max Bill collection exemplifies this principle. With a range of automatic, manual winding, chronograph, solar, and quartz models, the collection offers various options. However, in this review, we will focus on the manual wind version.

The Max Bill Manual Wind in 34mm embraces simplicity with its clean and minimalist dial layout. Thin lines serve as hour and seconds markers, and some models feature small Arabic numerals and a small seconds sub-dial. The version under review features a symmetrical dial with small lume plots at the outer edge of the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions.

A hint of lume is also present on the hour and minute hands, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. Measuring a mere 9mm in thickness and equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, this Max Bill model exudes a vintage charm and provides a delightful wrist-wearing experience.

The design of the Max Bill in 34mm is clean and devoid of superfluous features, making it suitable for all genders. Its iconic design is highly regarded, and adding the Max Bill to one’s watch collection is highly recommended. The Max Bill Manual Wind is available for €975, which roughly translates to $1,050. 

9. Mido Baroncelli Heritage (ref. M027.207.11.010.00)

Mido Baroncelli Heritage (ref. M027.207.11.010.00)

Mido, a brand within the Swatch Group, may not be as widely recognized in North America but enjoys popularity in Asia. Positioned in the mid-tier of the Swatch Group hierarchy, Mido falls below Longines but above Hamilton and Tissot in terms of quality and pricing.

This Mido Baroncelli Heritage is an interesting addition to this list as it is officially listed as a 33mm case diameter watch marketed towards women. However, due to its neutral colors and features, it can be easily worn by men with smaller wrists as well.

The dial of the Baroncelli Heritage is matte white with a wrinkled texture reminiscent of canvas material. The hour and minute hands feature a faceted design with alternating polish finishing, while the second hand adds a subtle touch of blue to the white dial. A date indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock, breaking up the dial that showcases painted hour and minute indices.

The Baroncelli Heritage comes with a 7-piece link bracelet, resembling the style of the Breitling Navitimer. Overall, this watch exudes a dressy aesthetic and is well-suited for formal evening wear. The retail price of the Baroncelli Heritage is $1,100.

10. Tudor Royal 34mm (ref. M28400-0006)

Tudor Royal 34mm (ref. M28400-0006)

Tudor is a watch brand that holds a special place in my heart, having owned the Tudor Prince Date 74000 and currently owning the Black Bay Harrods Edition. The Tudor Prince, like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, is 34mm in case diameter and features a slim case profile.

However, the Prince collection has been discontinued, and recent variations were only available in Asia by Tudor. In 2020, Tudor introduced the new Tudor Royal collection, initially targeting the Asian market but now available worldwide. The Royal collection has various case sizes, including the 34mm version we are reviewing here.

The Tudor Royal features an engine-turned-bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex Datejusts and a satin-like finish on the case. The dial is a sunburst blue with Roman numerals for hour markers and a date indicator at 3 o’clock. The watch incorporates an integrated bracelet design with five pieces in each link. The Tudor Royal draws inspiration from the Rolex Oysterquartz with its case shape and integrated design but with a modern interpretation.

Furthermore, Tudor now offers a five-year warranty on their watches, ensuring the trust and reliability of the brand. With a retail price of $2,350, the Tudor Royal presents an attractive proposition compared to its Rolex counterparts, providing a great value proposition for watch enthusiasts. 

11. Cartier Tank Must Large (ref. WSTA0041)

Cartier Tank Must Large (ref. WSTA0041)

The Tank watch by Cartier holds historical significance as it was introduced in 1918 and was one of the first wristwatches created. This timepiece marked a significant milestone in horology. Since then, Cartier has established itself as a renowned jeweler and watchmaker in the industry, with the focus here being on the Tank Must Large.

The Tank Must Large embodies the essence of a classic dress watch, featuring dimensions of 34mm in length and 25.5mm in width. The dial boasts a silvery white color adorned with black Roman numerals, exuding timeless elegance. The Tank’s hands are iconic blue sword-shaped hands, adding a touch of sophistication.

With a leather strap and Cartier’s distinctive deployant clasp, which allows the excess strap to fold inward, the Tank Must Large offers both comfort and style. One of the signature features of this Tank is the beaded crown with a blue cabochon, which is a hallmark of Cartier’s design and adds visual delight.

The Tank is unquestionably a stunning timepiece that serves as a perfect complement to any evening attire. Its design is equally captivating on both male and female wrists, making it a versatile watch.

Considering the brand’s heritage and the historical significance of the Tank, this Tank is reasonably priced at $3,100 for a luxury watch of this caliber. 

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.001)

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.001)

Omega has a rich history and a strong reputation for quality timepieces. For me, it also reminds me of my grandfather, making it my favorite watch brand.

The Aqua Terra 34mm retains the signature elegance of the Aqua Terra collection while offering a slightly more feminine design than its larger 38mm counterpart. With its 34mm case size and 11.9mm thickness, it is well-suited for those with smaller wrists. The lug width of 16mm and lug-to-lug length of 40.5mm further contribute to its comfortable fit.

This particular version of the Aqua Terra features a captivating “Lagoon Green” dial, which adds a unique and refreshing touch. The date indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock, ensuring a balanced and symmetrical design. The rounded hour markers distinguish it from the 38mm version, giving it its own distinct character.

Inside, the watch houses the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a precise and reliable movement that is METAS-certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy within a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.

With a water resistance rating of 150m, the Aqua Terra 34mm is a versatile timepiece that can handle more than just everyday splashes. Weighing in at 100g, it offers a comfortable and enjoyable wearing experience throughout the day.

Priced at $6300, the Aqua Terra 34mm represents a significant price. However, given its versatility, it could potentially serve as a one-watch collection.

13. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 (ref. 124200)

Rolex, known for its prestigious reputation and iconic designs, certainly holds its crown in the Swiss luxury watch industry. The Oyster Perpetual line, particularly in its 34mm size, offers a more understated and subtle option within Rolex’s catalog. 

Although the 34mm case size may initially sound small, the Oyster Perpetual’s design is deceptive in terms of how it wears on the wrist. The protruding case back and thicker lugs give it a larger presence. Additionally, the Oyster Perpetual offers a wide range of dial color variants, ensuring you’ll find one that suits your style.

With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Oyster Perpetual allows you to confidently engage in activities such as swimming without worrying about water damage. The watch’s clasp features Rolex’s Easylink system, allowing for a small extension of the bracelet if your wrist swells up on a warm day.

This practical feature, appreciated by many, has set a standard other brands have followed. Among all the watches listed here, the Oyster Perpetual is my favorite, and it’s easy to understand why. Its simplicity and timeless design make a strong statement on the wrist. Priced at $5,800, the Oyster Perpetual represents a significant investment and long waitlist at authorized dealers.

14. Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is indeed regarded as the epitome of a dress watch, exuding sophistication with its 34mm case size, hobnail-textured bezel, and leather strap. The Calatrava 3919J fits snugly on the wrist and easily slips under the cuff due to its slim profile, measuring only 7mm in thickness.

Patek Philippe utilizes 18K yellow gold for the case material, a hallmark of their exquisite craftsmanship. The white dial features black Roman numerals, complemented by a leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The small seconds sub-dial is positioned above the 6 o’clock mark.

The hand-wound movement of the Calatrava 3919J contributes to its thinness, allowing for a sleek and refined appearance. Additionally, it offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours, ensuring sufficient wear between winding.

While the Calatrava 3919J may not be my ideal dress watch from Patek Philippe, its intricate details and meticulous craftsmanship are undeniable. This Calatrava would undoubtedly be a fitting companion for a black-tie event or any formal occasion.

As the Calatrava 3919J was discontinued in 2006, sourcing it from the secondary market is the most likely option for purchasing this timepiece. 

15. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm White Dial (ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm White Dial (ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01)

Several years ago in New York City, I visited a watch store and noticed a vintage AP Royal Oak in the display case. It was 33-34mm in case size, and I asked to try it on. It was a great experience trying on the vintage Royal Oak, and especially in smaller case sizes, they offer a unique and charming appeal to watch enthusiasts.

Moving on to the modern Royal Oak in 34mm ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01, it is indeed a versatile and unisex timepiece, despite the availability of larger case sizes within the AP catalog. The stainless steel case of the 34mm Royal Oak features a combination of polished and brushed finishes, showcasing the brand’s fine craftsmanship. The watch measures 8.8mm in thickness and offers a water resistance of 50m.

The silver-toned dial with the iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers, and luminescent-coated Royal Oak hands contribute to the watch’s distinctive aesthetic. The bracelet is secured by a butterfly deployant clasp with dual buttons, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.

A minor critique of this timepiece is the absence of a micro-adjustment feature on the bracelet, which may make achieving the perfect fit a bit more challenging.

Considering the prestigious Royal Oak lineage and “Holy Trinity” title associated with the brand, the 34mm Royal Oak commands a high retail price of $25,300. Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that demand for Royal Oak watches often exceeds supply, resulting in waitlists for interested buyers.

Conclusion

Overall, 34 mm-sized watches are gaining appreciation in the watch industry, particularly among individuals with smaller wrists. This trend is refreshing as watch brands recognize the need for smaller sizes. As someone who has owned a variety of 34mm watches, I regret selling the Tudor Prince Date too soon.

I wholeheartedly support more brands offering watch variants in smaller case sizes, as it allows individuals with smaller wrists to fully enjoy the hobby. In my opinion, 34mm is a classically styled case size that strikes a balance. It is small and lightweight enough to go unnoticed on the wrist when desired, yet it still exudes elegance.

The message I want to convey is that we should be open to wearing watches with smaller case sizes. Embracing smaller watches can enhance the overall wearing experience. So, don’t hesitate to explore the world of 34mm watches!

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