Category: Cartier

For over a century, the Cartier Tank has been ceaselessly impressing the market with its stunning, innovative work that has left enthusiasts speechless.

Cartier has been committing itself to excellence since the dawn of the luxury watch breakout, redefining what it truly means to create timepieces, leaving the market in disbelief upon every release.

The brand has one of the most esteemed reputations, so it’s no surprise that the Tank Francaise has lived up to the legacy.

Throughout its long reign as one of Cartier’s most iconic tanks, the Francaise has undergone its fair share of variations and updates, resulting in a wider range of options for customers to collect and enjoy. But how exactly has it aged, and what can new customers expect from purchasing a small Francaise vs purchasing a medium Francaise?

Most importantly, how do the sizes compare, and what exactly is right for you? In this article, we will compare the small and medium Francaise and look at the rich history that stands behind this masterpiece, as well as explain what will be the most optimal fit for you. 

A Brief History of the Francaise

In 1917, Louis Cartier would forever change the luxury watch industry by creating the Cartier Tank. With the flat brancards, the clean, crisp lines, and the smooth lugs, the Tank has one of the most unique aesthetics we have ever seen, inspiring countless variations while managing to hold on to what made the original so successful. 

In 1996, Cartier would go on to launch the Francaise to embody the original design of the Tank while adding a modern flare. The Francaise is technically the first Tank with an integrated bracelet that was designed to specifically complement the case.

The Francaise also comes with both an angular case and an angular bracelet that slims down the size altogether, attributing a much more sophisticated feel. 

The word “Francaise” is the feminine singular of the word French, which is quite fitting for a chic design like this, as it has become one of the most desired lady accessories during its reign.

In fact, Princess Diana is famously known for wearing a gold Francaise on numerous occasions, paying even more tribute to the famous legacy, shooting the piece into stardom, and causing it to become a modern icon. 

One of the most interesting dynamics of the Francaise is the twin linear, parallel bezels, which double as the lugs.

It’s not easy to preserve the iconic style of the original tank while keeping a much more preserved silhouette, but the angular brancards give the watch a sporty twist that blends with the ends of the bracelet to outline the lugs in a perfect manner that captures exactly the kind of feel Cartier was going for.

The watch takes both a rectangular and hexagonal shape, throwing quite the funky flavor into the mix that holds its own among the refined aesthetics. 

It’s safe to say that this watch takes any element of design and perfectly embodies it. There’s not one specific category that the Francaise fits into.

It’s a luxury watch, that’s for certain, and the refined elegance will most likely be the most appealing feature. But there is much more than meets the eye that you may not expect from a brand like Cartier. 

This watch seems to be much more daring and bold, which would be risky for any other brand, but Cartier has created something truly special that has broken the barriers of what traditional elegance can mean. 

How do the sizes compare, though? Depending on what you prefer, the small and medium sizes of the Francaise fit a plethora of styles and accommodations, but how exactly do you know which is the right fit for you?

While we compare both sizes, take note of what each Francaise variant has to offer so that you can get a better understanding of the specific strengths each brings to the table. 

The Francaise Small

The small model measures 25.7mm x 21.2mm, with a thickness of 6.8mm. This sizing is obviously optimal for fairly petit wrists and will prove to have a much more delicate look.

The small gives off a traditional feel, leaning back on the design of the original Tank while still carrying a fair amount of that Francaise boldness. 

This particular model was most likely engineered for those who prefer a demure look so as to not overpower the chic traditionality of Cartier women’s accessories. It also appears to be much more vintage, capturing an older style that will appeal to a fairly large number of customers.

Some may be turned off by the modern aesthetic of bigger sizes, so this version will prove to be the best for those who value the classics.

The small also features more compact proportions that seem to be more well-rounded and precise than bigger models. I, for one, prefer a tighter watch where everything flows and feels symmetrical, and when looking at smaller sizes, you can expect the Francaise to hold true.

And, of course, you have to admire the price. The smaller size lends itself to a much cheaper cost, typically rounding out at $22,000.

The Francaise Medium 

Then, we have the medium, measuring 32mm x 27mm, with a thickness of 7.1mm. This model will appeal to those with a little bit larger wrists, measuring pretty big for a women’s watch.

The boldness of the Francaise aesthetic is now on full display, offering a much more substantial presence on the wrist that incorporates that modern look. 

For the medium, the proportions are much larger, which naturally makes the watch far more noticeable. The numerals on the dial have also been slightly adjusted to define the bezel, evenly suiting the larger case. 

Because of the size, the unique elements of the Francaise are much more noticeable, which will appear to those who may desire a slightly elevated demeanor that looks a little different than the original tank. Since there are more pristine materials needed to suit the case, the medium size is more expensive, totaling $26,000.

Cartier Tank Francaise Small vs Medium – How to Choose

Aside from the size difference, the small will appeal to those who prefer the preserved and vintage feel of the original Tank, while the medium will be for those who enjoy the bold twist that the Francaise incorporates. 

Don’t get me wrong; I’m not saying that those who prefer the smaller size would be better off looking for another Tank variant; the Francaise aesthetic will undoubtedly appeal to anyone who enjoys an elegant and curvy case, but the medium is much more straightforward with how it decides to display all of those modern features. 

It seems like no matter the watch, there will always be two sides to every spectrum. Some simply like an older feel to their timepiece, while others are more appreciative of the modern designs that continue to shape the industry. There is no right or wrong choice; it simply comes down to preference. 

Conclusion

The Francaise is a masterpiece. Plain and simple. I would go as far as to say that it is one of the most prevalent women’s watches in the entire industry.

Cartier deserves all the recognition that they get, as their reputation lives up to the quality of their pieces every single time. Finding the perfect combination of modern themes and vintage history is not easy by any means. 

Cartier’s commitment to excellence extends to the birth of the brand itself. It’s because of the iconic pieces that fueled the first generation that we are able to get masterpieces like the Francaise.

As the market continues to evolve and designs continue to get bolder, Cartier will be one of the brands you want to keep an eye on because they have been pioneering evolution in the industry for over a century, and I have no doubt they will continue to be one of the most influential brands in the luxury space. 

If you are in the market for something that breaks the rules and exceeds everything you thought you knew about chic wristwear, I cannot recommend the Francaise enough.

Size matters, especially when you’re strapping on a watch as legendary as the Cartier Tank Must. And let’s be real, choosing between the Small and Large isn’t exactly easy.

On one hand, you want your watch to make an impression, so it fares to go big, right? But then you remember this is a dress watch, so the size should feel effortless, and comfortable, sitting just right without dominating your frame.

As someone who obsesses over watch sizes, and as a person with a relatively small wrist but a love for larger watches, I know how important it is to find the right balance. Too big, and it overwhelms your wrist but too small, and it might not give you the presence you want.

The Cartier Tank Must is all about proportions, elegance, and wearability, so choosing between the Small and Large comes down to more than just aesthetics. It’s about how it feels, how it fits, and how it complements your style. In this guide, I’ll break it all down to help you find your perfect match.

A Quick History of the Cartier Tank Must

The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watches of all time, a design that has barely changed since its creation in 1917. Inspired by the silhouette of military tanks viewed from above, its clean lines and rectangular shape broke away from the round pocket watches of the era. The Tank was revolutionary, not just in design but also in its philosophy.

It was a watch for everyone, worn by style icons, Hollywood stars, and royalty alike. Over the decades, Cartier introduced multiple variations, but in the 1970s, a new era of the Tank was born with the Must de Cartier, otherwise known as the Tank Must.

The 1970s were a turning point for the watch industry. With the rise of quartz movements, traditional mechanical watches were facing an identity crisis.

Cartier, known for its ultra-luxurious timepieces, saw an opportunity to create something more accessible while maintaining the brand’s signature elegance. Enter the Must de Cartier collection in 1977. Unlike its solid gold predecessors, the Tank Must featured gold-plated cases and quartz movements, making it a more affordable luxury.

Minimalist yet striking, the Cartier Tank Must was a departure from the ornate detailing of other Cartier timepieces. Many of the models had no numerals and indices, just a sleek dial and the classic sword-shaped hands.

The crown, still adorned with a blue cabochon, added a touch of unexpected flair. This balance of simplicity and boldness made the Tank Must an instant hit. It was a watch that felt luxurious but wasn’t out of reach which is a rare feat in high-end watchmaking.

Fast forward to 2021 and Cartier revived the Tank Must bringing back its signature minimalist aesthetic. The colorful lacquered dials returned as did many of the no-numeral dials. To this day, the collection stays true to the original Must ethos, remaining elegant, unisex, and effortlessly wearable.

The Cartier Tank Must Small

The Cartier Tank Must actually comes in three sizes: Small, Large, and Extra Large. The Extra Large is the only model equipped with an automatic movement, so today, we’re focusing on the two quartz-powered sizes, the Small and Large models, to help you decide which one suits you best.

The Cartier Tank Must Small measures 29.5mm by 22mm with a slim height of 6.6mm, making it the most compact and refined of the lineup.

Each model maintains the Tank’s signature aesthetic with its slim, polished rectangular case topped with sapphire crystal glass. And of course, they all feature the brand’s hallmark blue spinel cabochon set into the crown.

As of writing this article, the modern Tank Must Small offers four different variations, all sharing the same crisp white dial with black Roman numerals, blued sword-shaped hands, and an internal railway minutes track.

The most accessible model in the collection is the classic Small Tank Must on a black leather strap, powered by a traditional Swiss quartz movement. It’s elegant, understated, and a perfect introduction to the world of Cartier.

For those looking for something a little more innovative, there’s the Small Tank Must SolarBeat™. Debuting with the modern Tank Must collection, the SolarBeat™ movement is a groundbreaking photovoltaic-powered quartz caliber that uses light to recharge, offering an impressive 16-year battery life.

This means fewer battery changes and a more sustainable way to wear a luxury timepiece. Externally, this model looks identical to its traditional quartz counterpart but offers a more eco-conscious and forward-thinking movement inside.

For a touch of extra glamour, Cartier also offers the Small Tank Must with diamonds. This version retains the same SolarBeat™ movement but adds brilliant-cut diamonds along the case flanks, giving it a refined sparkle that elevates its presence on the wrist. It’s still classic but with an extra dose of elegance.

Finally, the last model in the Small Tank Must collection swaps the traditional leather strap for a sleek stainless steel bracelet.

Also powered by the SolarBeat™ movement, this version blends the timeless Cartier aesthetic with a more contemporary and versatile metal bracelet, making it perfect for those who prefer a polished, everyday-wear look.

The Cartier Tank Large

If you’re considering the Cartier Tank Must Large, you have even more choices than with the Small model. Not only are there multiple dial colors, but also different dial layouts including those without any numerals or indices, a design I personally love. If you appreciate minimalism, this could be a big deciding factor for you.

First things first, all models labeled as “Large” share the same dimensions measuring to 33.7mm by 25.5mm, with a slim 6.6mm height. They’re all crafted from stainless steel, featuring the signature rectangular case, polished sides, and sapphire crystal glass.

Much like the Small variations, some of these Large models stick to the classic Cartier aesthetic, featuring the crisp white dial with black Roman numerals, blued steel hands, and an internal railway minute track.

One of these comes on a black leather strap, while another offers the same strap but with a touch of extra luxury, diamonds set along the flanks of the case. Two other options swap out the leather for a sleek stainless steel H-link bracelet.

For those looking for something a little more modern and sustainable, there are also versions that trade the traditional quartz movement for the photovoltaic SolarBeat™ movement. These models come in both leather strap and steel bracelet variations.

Then, we have the models that truly stand out. These are where Cartier embraces a more minimalist, yet boldly colorful approach. Unlike the traditional white dial versions, these pieces strip away the Roman numerals and railway track altogether, leaving just two sleek hands and the Cartier logo at 12 o’clock.

The effect is a strikingly clean design that feels both contemporary and timeless. These models feature lacquered dials in four stunning shades of burgundy red, emerald green, royal blue, and classic black.

Each dial is complemented by rhodium-finished steel sword-shaped hands and a semi-matte alligator leather strap in a matching color, secured with a steel ardillon buckle.

Interestingly, despite being larger in surface area than the Small model, these minimalist Large variations are actually the slimmest of all, with a height of just 6mm giving them an extra sleek, refined profile on the wrist.

Cartier Tank Must Small vs Large – How to Choose

So, now that we’ve gone over both models individually, how do they stack up against each other? If you’re stuck deciding between the Small and the Large, let’s break down the key differences to help you figure out which one’s the better fit for your wrist and your style.

Differences in Size and Proportions

Obviously, the most obvious difference is size. The Small measures 29.5mm by 22mm, while the Large comes in at 33.7mm by 25.5mm. That might not sound like a massive jump, but on the wrist, it’s noticeable. The Large also has a bit more presence, without tipping over into being oversized.

Another key factor is thickness. The classic white-dialled Small and Large versions are a little thicker at around 6.6mm, whereas the Large with the ultra-minimalist lacquered dials are even slimmer at just 6mm, giving them an extra sleek, refined look.

Differences in Design Options

While both sizes offer the classic Cartier silver-white dials with Roman numerals, blued hands, and polished steel cases, the Large model gives you a few more dial colours to choose from. If you love the traditional Cartier aesthetic, both sizes will work, but if you want something a little different, the Large has a few options that stand out.

Some feature no numerals at all, just clean dials with two hands and the Cartier logo, creating a minimalist, modern feel. This ultra-clean look, paired with lacquered dials in striking colors like burgundy, green, blue, and black, isn’t available in the Small size, making the Large the go-to if you want something bolder.

Differences in Movement

Both sizes come with traditional quartz movements and Cartier’s eco-friendly SolarBeat™ movement. So thankfully, there’s no difference here in terms of functionality.

You’ve got a choice of whether you want the classic quartz or the SolarBeat upgrade. That said, if you’ve got your heart set on an automatic movement, then you’ll have to explore the Cartier Tank Much Extra Large family for that.

Differences in Price

Naturally, the Large models are slightly more expensive, typically by a couple of hundred dollars. In the grand scheme of Cartier pricing, that’s not a huge jump, but if you’re on the fence between the two sizes, it might be a factor worth considering.

The Small keeps things a little more budget-friendly, while the Large asks for a bit more, but also gives you extra dial options and a bigger presence on the wrist in return.

Which One is Right for You?

If you have a smaller wrist, prefer something more discreet, or just love the idea of a classic, timeless Cartier dress watch, the Cartier Tank Must Small is a fantastic choice. It’s elegant, refined, and fits beautifully under a cuff.

That said, if you want a little more presence, appreciate a slightly larger dial, or love the idea of those sleek, numeral-free color options, the Large is the way to go.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, both the Cartier Tank Must Small and Large are stunning options. You can’t really ever go wrong with a Cartier because these watches, no matter their size, are timeless, effortlessly stylish, and built with the kind of design language that has made them icons for over a century.

But when it comes down to choosing between them, there are two big factors that should guide your decision: the size of your wrist (and the presence you want the watch to have) and which dial design speaks to you the most.

For example, I have relatively small wrists at around 5.5 inches, so logically, the Cartier Tank Must Small would be the best fit for my frame. But I can’t help but love those bright lacquered dials with no numerals or indices on the Large models.

Those are what really call to me. They feel more aligned with my style, and I know I’d reach for them ten times more than the classic white dial with Roman numerals. So for me, that’s what would make the decision.

And that’s exactly how you should go about it, too. Consider the sizing, think about the designs you love, and decide what matters most to you. If you want something classic, understated, and perfectly proportioned for a smaller wrist, the Cartier Tank Must Small is a fantastic choice.

If you want something a little bolder, with a bit more presence and unique dial options, the Large is where it’s at. Either way, you’ll end up with a Cartier Tank on your wrist and that’s never a bad thing.

There seems to be a general consensus amongst luxury watch enthusiasts that only those brands with at least a century’s worth of history and experience behind their designs are worthy of being amongst the elite of the Haute Horlogerie universe.

Of course, that’s not true, and there are many up-and-coming names and micro-brands, not to mention young watchmakers making waves across the industry with their influential designs.

But for the purposes of comparing one Cartier watch with another, we can at least say that both of these models come from the same respectable, independent watchmaker, who has over 100 years of know-how and heritage behind its name.

The Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank are among the French luxury brand’s most famous and popular watches of all time. They’re also loved for very different reasons.

Cartier has an illustrious history, and the Tank and Santos have served as two pillars of outstanding craftsmanship and success, marking watershed moments for the brand. 

Should you be contemplating which model you’d like to embellish your collection with, you may require a little extra assistance to accompany your research. In this article, we’ll compare the history, materials, design, movements and the prices of both models as the Cartier Tank goes head- to-head with the Cartier Santos.

The Cartier Tank 

To many, the Cartier Tank may seem very simple in design. But while it embodies a purity that is appreciated amongst discerning collectors, it also tells the story of an unlikely design.

One that didn’t follow the conventional shape, yet reached the heights of popularity in a profound way with a unique design inspired by military tanks of the First World War…

The History of the Tank

The Cartier Tank first came to life in 1917 with its bold rectangular design that stood out drastically amongst a sea of Art Nouveau-inspired timepieces.

It echoed the profile of the Renault FT-17 machines of WWI with clear, structured lines that defied the conventions of its time, marking the beginning of a creative era in watchmaking.

The Tank set a new precedent for modernity and outside-of-the-box thinking. The case was formed by a set of parallel lines that Cartier likes to call “brancards” and the dial was occupied by sword-shaped hands and Roman numeral hour markers.

The crown at the side of the case was set with a blue sapphire cabochon – a hallmark of many Cartier watches. Lastly, its simple yet decadent design came equipped with a traditional leather strap for easy wearing.

The Tank actually took some influential cues from its predecessor, the Santos, yet the gently elongated case shape and clean lines gave it an elegant personality of its own.

It was one of the first examples to take influences from the Art Deco style, appealing to those brave enough to wear something that went against the grain. 

It would be 1919, however, before the first Cartier Tank watch would go on sale. It’s what we now call the Tank Normale, which preceded the Tank Cintree – both of which were led under the innovative direction of Louis Cartier himself.

The Cintree, however, was slightly more elongated, fully celebrating the unusual appeal of the rectangular case with a cambered case and stretched Roman numerals. The inaugural Normale, however, was produced in limited runs, making these originals some of the most covetable of all.

The watch also became ubiquitous on silver screen, starring in the 1926 film “The Son Of The Sheik”. The brand re-launched many historical Tank designs much later on, including the aforementioned Tank Cintree, which arrived in 2018 with iterations available in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold.

The Cintree is an acquired taste. Because it looks rather different to other Tank models, it’s often overlooked until experienced on the wrist. 

Back to the Tank’s history, though. The Tank Chinoise arrived later, resuming the more squared case shape similar to the Normale. It featured upper and lower brancards inspired by East Asian temples.

As time went on, subtle changes were gradually implemented into the collection, including the gently rounded corners of the Tank Louis Cartier case, donating a softer, albeit geometric profile.

Its scalloped edges offered a striking take on the watch and soon became the classic “Tank” style by which all other models are compared to.

The Tank Louis Cartier, otherwise known as the Tank LC was by far one of the most iconic interpretations of the Tank during the roaring 20s and was exclusively manufactured in precious metal, making it an appealing dress watch option for special occasions.

These models were eventually made available in quartz-powered versions, however the purist of ways to experience the model today would be in manually wound form. 

This brings us to the historical chapters that outline some of the most important versions of the Tank watch – each one becoming a renowned component of the larger Tank collection. Here they are in a little more detail.

The Tank Models 

Let’s fast forward to 1977 – the year of the Cartier Tank de Must – a watch that launched during the era of the Quartz Crisis and a more affordable period of watch collecting. To keep up with the demand for accessible wristwatches, Cartier released the Tank de Must in gold-plated silver or brass.

Today, this line still exists, accommodating the Solar Beat variations that absorb light through their dials. A second sub- line has since been built out, too – the Tank Solo – a series of affordable quartz-powered steel models. 

The Tank Americaine followed the quartz period with a curved case that looked similar to the Cintree. These iterations featured a small seconds or moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, adding another layer of technical sophistication to the Tank design.

These models are curved on the dial side with flat casebacks and have recently launched in steel for the first time (2017).

Cartier continued the legacy of the iconic Tank watch in 1996 with the launch of the Tank Francaise, boasting a squared case design and a refined link bracelet that exuded a sportier presence.

In 2012, Cartier released the Tank Anglaise – a much bolder and more modern design with prominent brancards and a chunkier profile for a bolder wrist presence.

This design showcased the crown embedded into the brancards, forming one of the most distinctive designs within the collection. This blend of traditional and modern features serves to articulate the journey of the classic Tank and its evolution over the decades. 

Today, the Cartier Tank is still one of the most alluring designs to own and has been spotted on the wrists of royalty, as well as famous faces like Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and Andy Warhol.

Above all, it’s a highly popular collectible due to its minimalist design, striking rectangular shape, timeless aesthetics, impeccable movements, and its ability to retain value. 

The Cartier Santos

Similarly, the Cartier Santos is one of the brand’s most enduring designs to date and is once again defined by its unconventional shaped case.

Suffice to say, if you like to steer away from the traditional round case and you like vintage-looking watches that carry a curious and intriguing history, either the Tank or Santos is going to appeal to you for similar reasons.

Yet the Santos is steeped in an aviation heritage, blending luxurious square-shaped aesthetics with pilot-friendly functionality.

The collection ranges from stainless steel models to exquisite diamond-set creations and skeleton editions that show the workings of some of Cartier’s most impressive mechanical movements.

The History of the Cartier Santos 

The story of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont highlighted the need for a highly practical wrist-worn tool for flying. The pocket watch was impractical for such duties, thus Cartier responded to the request with a flat watch with a square bezel and a strap.

Santos-Dumont became the first pilot to sport the wristwatch during flight. The design was inspired by an earlier square-shaped Cartier pocket watch and featured an Art Deco-inspired dial that was crisp and highly legible and went on to define the 1920s and 1930s, as did the Tank. 

Earning the distinction of being the first men’s wristwatch, the unorthodox watch design went down in history and is still available today. The first models were made available to the general public in 1911 but have since undergone modifications that have helped evolve the watch into the practical, yet instantly recognisable model it is today. 

The Santos Models 

With screws that bolted down the watch glass, inspired by the legs of the Eiffel tower and a Roman numeral hour track that echoed the streets and boulevards of Paris, there is no denying that the Cartier Santos watch was unique, both in design and aesthetics.

When the watch hit the shelves in 1911, options in platinum and yellow gold became available. The brand then went on to create the deployant clasp (before innovating the QuickSwitch clasp) and played a pivotal role in defining the era that made the man’s wristwatch both acceptable and stylish. 

During the 1970s, Cartier was inspired by the stainless steel sports watch and the penned Gerald Genta designs that took the world by storm.

It turned to the Santos to capitalise on the trend, redesigning it and renaming it the Santos de Cartier in 1978. It switched out the classic leather band for an integrated metal bracelet and debuted in stainless steel. 

Similar to changing tactics during the quartz era with a battery-powered Tank, Cartier also revised and renamed the Santos during the 1980s with the large-wearing  Santos Galbee, before the arrival of the Santos 100 in 2004, marking the model’s centenary.

After lying dormant for a decade, the brand relaunched the Santos in 2018 with a modern collection of timepieces each featuring curvier lugs and cases. The range came with several patent-pending features including a SmartLink system for its bracelets and the aforementioned QuickSwitch mechanism.

The latest range is the Santos-Dumont, which launched a year later in two-tone options, featuring dials that look similar to early 1900 vintage models. 

Despite the many variations of the Cartier Santos and the fact that it’s the oldest design in the brand’s current catalogue, there is still a strong appetite for this aviation watch. It still looks good on the wrist some 100 years later, as does the Tank, making the decision process between the two particularly tricky. 

Which Is the Right Model for You?

It goes without saying that the Cartier Tank leans into dress watch territory with its simple, classic and undeniably elegant aesthetics.

Though both share the crisp black Roman numeral hour markers and signature blued hands of the true unadulterated Cartier style, the Santos is bolder and more functional, benefitting from a QuickSwitch strap, as well as superior water resistance. It’s an ideal go-to watch that straddles the line between dress and sports watch.

As well as capturing the brand’s pioneering heritage in aviation watchmaking, the Cartier Santos shows more technical sophistication, exposing elements of its fine watchmaking through skeletonised designs and industrial-inspired elements like the bezel screws, though these features may be too aggressive for some and it’s price too high when compared to entry-level Tanks.

The Tank however, excels in formal environments with its slim profile and elegant proportions. Great for business attire, the unisex designs from this collection are versatile across gender preferences thanks to their timeless design language and their cultural significance across the course of history.

At the end of the day, however, it’s the Cartier Santos that stands out for its practical adaptability. The implementation of its strap-changing features makes customising the watch easy while on the go, eradicating the need to use tools and providing more configurations for those who like to switch up the style of their watch as they go. 

Of course, deciding between the two depends on personal preference and requires some level of consideration in what you need in a timepiece and what your watch-wearing habits are. 

The Cartier Tank and Santos as Investments 

Understanding the investment side to collecting Tank and Santos watches is important. Both stand out for their strong value retention, but as with every model, market demand and price is affected by rarity, materials and condition.

From the Tank collection, models like Louis Cartier Tank watches hold their value well, while the Tank Must designs have provided a more accessible price point for collectors, strengthening the brand’s market position and appealing to a wider audience. 

Like many sports watch offerings, the Cartier Santos demonstrates good value retention, especially those that have since become discontinued, like the Santos 100.

Enhancing market appeal further are features designed for comfort and practicality like Cartier’s redesigned case proportions and strap-fitting mechanisms, benefitting from enhanced build quality whilst still preserving the links to it is heritage. 

Contrastingly, while the Cartier Tank commands premium prices when in precious metal form, the value of the Santos can be found within its steel sports watch offerings. For a new Cartier Tank quartz, you can expect to pay around $3k and within the region of $20k for a precious metal model.

For the Cartier Santos, prepare to part with around $7k to $40k depending on the complication, or more than original retail price for a vintage or discontinued model on the pre-owned market. 

Conclusion 

The word “iconic” is thrown around all too often in the world of watch collecting. But if there is one watch that lives up to that terminology, it’s the Cartier Tank. The watch has graced the wrists of many luminaries over the years, from Princes Diana and Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol and Muhammed Ali.

Although the watch has undergone many changes over the years, most have been functional upgrades rather than aesthetical ones. Indeed, the Tank has needed to change very little to keep up with current tastes.

It will remain amongst some of the most timeless designs in history thanks to its enduring shape and endlessly elegant style. Above all, the Tank is one of the most influential and recognisable luxury designs on the planet and is widely appreciated as a unisex design. 

Likewise, the Cartier Santos will always have a palace in the heart of aviation fans and pilot watch collectors, and appeals to a more niche segment, resonating with fans of the brand’s aviation roots, not to mention dedicated Cartier watch collectors who generally share an appreciation for the classic and timeless beauty of its unconventional case shape and suite of distinctive features. 

The recent boom in vintage watches has no doubt kept the Cartier Tank and Santos watches towards the top of the wish list for many discerning collectors. For those looking for a more modern interpretation of either watch, Cartier’s current line-up offers a little something for everyone.

And while neither the Santos or the Tank are the cheapest of investments, they do retain their value well and promise to make some of the best heirlooms you could opt for on the current market.