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Most watch collectors, myself included, own a dive watch but have never actually dived with it. It’s more of a style statement than a piece of actual dive gear, and there’s something reassuring knowing your timepiece can withstand high pressures of water – just in case you spontaneously decide to dive headfirst into a pool. 

Alternatively, you might actually be one of those rare collectors who does dive, or maybe you’re not even a collector at all—just a real, seasoned diver looking for something reliable. If so, then the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this past week might just be the perfect watch for you. It’s not just about looking good (although if you’re like me and you do just enjoy a timeless dive watch aesthetic, it nails that, too), but this has a list of specs that promises a watch that performs.

Grand Seiko’s Background in Dive Watches

Grand Seiko has been around for over half a century, founded in 1960, and yet it wasn’t until 2008 that the Japanese watchmaker debuted their first dive watch. It included reference SBGA029, a stainless steel model, and reference SBGA031, done in titanium. 

Both were powered by the company’s legendary 9R65 Spring Drive movement, perfectly combining the ruggedness of a serious dive watch with the unprecedented precision of their Spring Drive technology. This unique movement, combining mechanical precision with quartz accuracy, gave their dive watches an edge in both reliability and performance, letting them contend in a saturated and highly competitive market.

In more recent years, Grand Seiko has also impressed with its Hi-Beat Diver models, which specifically target wearers who appreciate a higher frequency mechanical movement, offering greater accuracy and a more responsive feel. The brand has long been a strong contender in the sports watch market, so it’s no surprise that their dive watch collection is packed with high-performing, top-tier models.

One of their standout recent releases of recent years is the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 200m Diver SBGH289, launched in 2021 alongside its black-dialed counterpart, the SBGH291. These models lean more toward recreational diving, offering a slightly less rugged and oversized design, perfect for both underwater performance and casual weekend wear. 

They’re versatile and stylish, and still maintain the Grand Seiko reputation for excellence in craftsmanship and functionality. After wearing the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 for the past week, here are my thoughts…

A Solid, Water Resistant Case

No matter how hard I try, I can’t help but have preconceptions about a watch before it even lands on my desk for review. With the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289, despite the relatively compact dimensions listed on the GS website (at least, for a dive watch), I was convinced it was going to feel big—maybe even too big for my wrist. But, as usual, my assumptions were quickly proven wrong. 

Once I had it on, the watch felt perfectly balanced, with the sleek case design and smart proportions making it surprisingly comfortable. It manages to strike that rare balance between being substantial enough to feel like a true dive watch without overwhelming the wrist. It’s a perfect reminder that you can’t always judge a watch by its specs alone. 

Dimensions are made up of a 43.8mm width and a lug-to-lug of 51mm. It also has a thickness of 14.7mm which again feels much lower on the wrist than the numbers suggest. It should, as long as your shirt cuff isn’t too tight, slip easily under most dress shirts. The short but broad lugs that sloped downwards help to keep the case compact on the wrist while the bezel and sapphire crystal glass add to its height. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is engineered from stainless steel and, in typical Grand Seiko style, features a nice combination of finishes. The case sides feature a black polish, also known as Zaratsu polishing in GS’s dictionary. 

It’s a process that is done completely by hand and requires several years of training to master. The metal is held against a spinning tinplate to create a breathtaking mirror polish. It looks incredibly good on a dress watch, and in this case, a sports watch.  There’s also a small bit of bevelling along the side of the case, adding to its sleek architecture and satin-brushed finishing applied on the lug hoods. 

Up top, the bezel has its own stainless steel ring with knurled detailing for easy grip, even with wet hands or while wearing thick diving gloves. Sadly, the bezel is not ceramic, which is something you’d expect at this price point. In fact, Grand Seiko doesn’t specify exactly what the material is, but to me, it appears to be ADLC, aka Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon. 

It’s still a super scratch-resistant and glossy material that won’t shatter like a ceramic will. Grand Seiko has also suggested it’s been treated with a special hard coating so that durability is increased further. What I really love about the bezel is how silky and smooth it feels to turn. It’s a pleasure to set with an accurate 120-click action. The insert is a glossy black and has a 60-minute diver’s scale engraved in white around the circumference. A luminous pip is also added at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock, there’s a screw down crown nicely recessed into the case and protected by prominent crown guards. The case back is also screwed down, allowing for a healthy water-resistant rating of 200 meters. It’s the perfect level of water pressure protection for most recreational diving, whether you’re snorkeling, swimming, or going for a shallow dive. 

Even if you’re not planning on deep-sea adventures, 200 meters of water resistance means you never have to worry about everyday splashes, rain, or even taking it in the shower. It’s more than enough for casual divers or anyone who simply enjoys the peace of mind that comes with a robust, well-engineered dive watch. 

A Deep Navy Dial 

Like the pip on the bezel at 12 o’clock, much of the hardware on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch glows bright green in the dark. I’ve always loved the unusual combination of hands-on Grand Seiko’s dive watches, and the unique setup is made all the more obvious when the hands glow brilliantly at night. 

There’s a modern and broad arrow-tipped minute hand, a lollipop seconds hand, and a vintage-inspired cathedral hour hand. It might not be a combination of hardware suited to every taste, but I love it, and it really highlights Grand Seiko’s proficiency in bringing together traditional watchmaking techniques with modern ones. 

The dial has a gorgeous glossy blue finish that appears a deep royal blue in some lights and almost black in others. The rounded and baton-shaped hour markers are also generously decorated in Lumibrite for glow-in-the-dark capability and are hand-finished and brightly polished for an upscale look. 

It’s a relatively simple and standard dial layout, but the finishing of the hardware makes the dial look and feel more luxurious than any other standard dive watch. The date window at 3 o’clock, which replaces the hour marker here, also has its own polished border and a black-on-white date disc.

The only other notes of reference on the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch’s dial are the sloped navy seconds scale around the furthest edge and the applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. 

There’s also some lettering printed for Grand Seiko below the applied logo and several lines of text to denote the watch’s water resistance and movement at 6 o’clock. You could argue the text here could be reduced by a line or two to make the dial feel less cluttered, but since this is a time-and-date watch, after all, it doesn’t feel excessive.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is the Caliber 9S86 Hi-Beat movement. It’s automatic winding with manual winding capacity and is best characterized – and named after – by its high frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vibrations per hour. It also has a 55-hour power reserve, a quick set date, and hacking seconds. It’s also one of Grand Seiko’s most finely regulated movements, claiming an accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds a day. That’s an accuracy well within chronometer standards (-4 to +6 seconds a day).

Thanks to its higher frequency, the seconds hand glides with a noticeably smoother sweep compared to standard mechanical watches running at 28,800 vph. While it may not achieve the ultra-smooth flow of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movements, it still offers a wonderfully fluid motion and a subtle, satisfying tick that’s a pleasure to see and hear.

A Solid Metal Bracelet

The bracelet of the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is really nice and has a lot going for it. It has a lovely conforming end link which sits flush to the bracelet. There’s nothing worse than a metal bracelet that leaves a gap, even one small, between the bracelet and the case. 

That’s not a problem here, though. It has a modern look with a three-link architecture and wide spacing between the lugs. The bracelet does have a slight taper, decreasing ever so slightly the closer it gets to the folding buckle.

Like the case, the bracelet’s stainless steel surface has a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishing. The edges of the links have beautiful, rolled bevels with polishing, while the central links are tipped by edges that are also polished.

Annoyingly, the links are fixed with pins instead of screws, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko’s stainless steel model – we’ve seen this with some of their titanium models, but rarely those made from classic steel. It would have been better to have seen screws here, but changing out links is still easy and requires few tools.

That said, there likely won’t be many links to remove since there are plenty of micro-adjustment options on the buckle. There are four micro-adjust holes equipped on the buckle and a diver’s extension, so you can make super accurate amendments. 

The dive extension is particularly useful, as it can be done on the go while the watch is on the wrist. You just lift the two tabs on the buckle to adjust the sizing. It means you can adjust the length even while around marine environments without the worry you’ll drop it in the water! 

The buckle itself has a twin trigger release for added security and is nicely embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. If you’d rather wear – or dive – in a water-resistant strap like a rubber watch band, then the 22mm lug width and drilled lugs make shopping and changing out the strap a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

Despite its seemingly large dimensions, I’m thoroughly impressed with how the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 wears. The short, angled lugs are thoughtfully designed to hug the wrist, giving it a surprisingly comfortable fit. In fact, I think it could work on wrists as small as six inches, as long as you don’t mind the oversized look. 

That said, I’d recommend it for wrists between six-and-a-half and eight inches for the best balance of size and proportion. The only drawback is the use of stainless steel, which adds a bit of heft and makes it feel slightly heavier than you might expect. However, the extra weight doesn’t make it too cumbersome; it still wears well and feels solid without being overbearing, making it a good choice for those who appreciate a more substantial dive watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 watch is a permanent addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio, meaning that it’s a non-limited edition and doesn’t appear to be leaving the collection anytime soon. It retails for $7,300 brand new when ordered from authorized retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. 

It’s always worth purchasing your watches through authorized retailers like this, as you’ll have the reassurance that you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find the Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 on the second-hand market, averaging between $4,000 and $5,000.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat Diver SBGH289 is a fantastic dive watch that feels robust, reliable, and built to last. The case is surprisingly compact despite its listed dimensions, and it’s impressive how well Grand Seiko has managed to pull off a watch that’s both functional and attractive – especially at this price. The bezel and deep blue dial are also well executed and feel right at home alongside much more expensive dive watches. I will always love the unique combination of hand styles, too. In my opinion, you’ll not find a comparable Swiss-made dive watch with this level of hand-finishing and technology. I’m happy to recommend it to anyone who loves the look of a dive watch or genuinely wants something robust and reliable that can join you under the waves.

A stylish addition to Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, and rightfully so, the SBGK007 blends modern formality and classic timelessness. With a quick look, it’s pretty apparent that the watch is more than ideal in formalities.

The SBGK007 may have been launched several years ago, back in 2019, but it still holds up as an excellent choice. Of course, this is for many reasons, from design choices to internal components and how it wears. Grand Seiko is known to get creative with their designs, but there’s nothing wrong with sticking to the basics.

For those looking for something a little more retro from Grand Seiko, I feel the SBGK007 definitely hits the mark. To discern this for yourself, this review will break past the surface details of the watch to provide a more comprehensive picture.

When Did the SBGK007 Launch?

Released in 2019, the SBGK007 is a clear attempt at a retro-looking watch that exudes luxury both visually and to the touch. You can find it in Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection, and you can find two dial-variants of this watch: the SBGK009 and SBGK005.

While all three watches look stellar, the SBGK007 delivers the most universal wearability. I don’t look at the watch as a historical piece per se, but up close, it’s a sight to behold. It’s important to note that it isn’t a reissue, but it’s evident that the design choices are a call-back to a classic look.

As enough time passes, I’m confident this watch will become a historical staple for Grand Seiko. Everyone can benefit from a clean-cut, retro luxury watch, and the SBGK007 does a great job of blending the old with the new.

The SBGK007 Case From Every Angle

To give you an idea of how the case might look and feel on your wrist, it can be helpful to look at the varying dimensions. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 11.6mm thickness, the watch dons a subdued design with minimal wrist presence.

It isn’t necessarily meant to be a flashy timepiece but rather blend in with the professional tone of your outfit and the occasion. The Elegance Collection is perfect for this watch, as it truly embodies the nature of simplistic luxury.

The slim design on top of a 44mm lug-to-lug length offers a proportional design that blends well with the curvature of your wrist. Most Grand Seiko watches in my collection stand out, whether due to size, dial color, or accents. However, I immediately craved something different when I saw the SBGK007.

You’ll find the case is crafted with a mostly polished surface, with minor satinized accents for a bit of contrast at the right angles. A sloped case design gives the scale of the watch a sleeker look and adds to the overall comfort. Taking inspiration from King Seiko models, the case is reminiscent of the 1969 Grand Seiko style.

The case itself is made of stainless steel, but the components are slim enough that you won’t have to worry about excessive weight. Of course, you get the benefit of dual-curved sapphire crystal, offering the clarity and durability you need. As an added note, the crystal comes with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, which is essential, in my opinion.

I’m a huge fan of open case backs, which is a pleasant surprise with the SBGK007, and it’s built with a screw-down design. Better yet, this reveals the inner workings of the 9S63 movement on the inside.

If you take a close look, you’ll discover a subtle cutout for the push-and-pull crown. This is a call back to the 1969 King Seiko and includes the classic GS initials. I’m impressed with the watch’s low-profile bezel, as it helps boost its flatter design. You won’t find a bezel insert, but the simple yet highly polished design of the bezel gives the dial more room to shine.

Classic Dials Never Miss

A face card that’ll always impress, the dial of the SBGK007 is serene, to say the least. Delivering a relatively muted silver colorway, it shines just enough to catch your eye but never distracts from the time. Balance is a key factor for me in luxury watchmaking, something that isn’t very easy to achieve.

However, when it comes to Grand Seiko, it’s clear this is a focal point in everything they do. Some find the dial to be too simple for their liking, but the contrast of the strap color helps the dial really stand out.

Due to the somewhat blank slate look of the dial, I’m able to see it take on the color hues of the surrounding light. Whether it’s an orange sunset or neon lights, these colors will subtly reflect off the dial, a small yet satisfying detail.

This also helps the hands and indices stand out without looking too hard. This is an important detail, considering this watch doesn’t have any luminescence. I find it a little unfortunate that a date window isn’t included, but I feel like I understand why they went that route.

You have a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. If they added a date window, too, the dial wouldn’t look as serene as it does. The placement choices on the dial help with its symmetry, which is a small choice I really appreciate. I’m not really a fan of subdials being at even and odd positions. Having these sub-dials at three and nine guarantees uniformity with the center of the surface.

It’s likely that you wouldn’t immediately notice this, but the dial is also built with a sloped design. Tapering off the closer it gets to the edge, I’m always amazed at how colorful the dial can be with the most subtle influence of light.

Grand Seiko put a lot of fine detail into a watch that seems pretty simple on the surface. The dial texture might not seem like much, but with the right angle, you’ll see what it really brings to the table. Boasting what’s referred to as a sunburst finish, the dial looks like it gleams in the center and begins to fade near the edges.

You’ll also enjoy the finite index markers and hands, as they come with a nice finish and don’t pull away from the surface of the dial. Classic sword-style hands count every second, and I love the fact they decided to avoid a large seconds hand. 

It really helps keep the dial more open face, which I feel is the highlight of the overall design. The minute is as classic as it gets, only providing exactly what you need to tell the time. 

Much More Than a Standard Mechanical Movement

Built with a beautiful 9S63 mechanical movement, it’s the first manual winding movement Grand Seiko has introduced in quite some time. The power reserve is 72 hours, and once I saw the 28,800 vibrations per hour, I knew the watch was going to be a satisfying wear. You can see the smooth timekeeping with each passing second, a true testament to the hand-assembled approach from Grand Seiko.

The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds, and the normal accuracy for regular use is +10 to -1 seconds per day. This specific movement comes from the craftsman at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, further cementing its unique in-house engineering and quality. 

When I first learned about this watch, it was the finer notes about its creation that kept me locked in. All it took was for me to give it a test run, and all of the documentation made complete sense.

This is especially true with the manual winding mechanism of the SBGK007, as it adds to the old-school tone of the design. Some things never go out of style, and the movement of this watch carries that entire sentiment. 

You can even see several large jewels in the open case back, as well as the finite workings that are built with micro precision. I have no issue with watches that like to tick, but I’m honestly impressed with how smoothly this movement functions. 

The seconds hand looks like a seamless glide, and watching the movement in action is a testament to the quality and consistency of this timepiece.

Sometimes, I think it’s unfortunate I can’t just admire every layer of the movement at any time. While an open case back is as good as it gets for everyday wear, I find myself appreciating it more every day.

Once again, the watch doesn’t seem like much until you take a closer look. With the SBGK007, you get a one-of-a-kind quality movement that really shows you that what is on the inside really counts.

How the SBGK007 Strap is the Perfect Compliment

You can never go wrong with a solid black strap. The SBGK007 finds contrast and balance in its high-quality alligator strap. Not only does this promise durability, but I find myself surprised at how soft the inside layer feels on the wrist. Even if it feels obviously durable on the outside, you won’t feel any friction on the skin.

One small downside here is that it’s built with a 19mm lug width, a sizing that’s known to make finding replacement straps a bit difficult. Swapping it out is not impossible, but the strap delivers a quality that makes me want to leave everything as it was meant to be.

The strap quality is meant for long-term, consistent use. You don’t need to have a suit on every day to warrant this watch. I’m using it as a daily wear myself, and the durability of the strap hasn’t wavered in the slightest.

You’ll also appreciate the slight grooves and serene finish on the strap, as it beautifully compliments the Zaratsu-polished areas across the case. Grand Seiko doesn’t include any additional straps with this watch, as its original design will hold up in quality and style for generations to come.

What It’s Like to Wear the SBGK007

I’ve had skinnier wrists my entire life, which definitely comes with some challenges in the timepiece category. That’s partly what makes me so excited about the SBGK007, is that it wears very well for 6-inch wrists. I’m only slightly over that mark, and I find it to be a snug yet comfortable fit.

Of course, on the other end of that spectrum, people with larger wrists might have a harder time with this watch. Nevertheless, the overall thinness of the watch, specifically the case, makes for a hidden gem on the wrist. It’s beautiful to the naked eye and can easily blend in with a vast range of outfits.

Whether you’re out boating, at the office, or on a date, this watch comes with a very universal use case. I like a little color here and there, but the muted look of this watch has become a common part of my weekly rotations.

Aside from the many selling points in the design of the SBGK007, the cost is bound to sway your decision-making. Thankfully, I, among many others, find this watch to come at an understandable cost. I feel Grand Seiko has found a mid-range for entry-level enthusiasts and luxury that’s worth the asking price.

Cost and Availability

With a search online, you can find the Grand Seiko SBGK007 retailed at $6,900. This is a bit high for me, but I can see why many others wouldn’t even give the cost of this watch a second thought. Understandably steep for some individuals, this is actually quite respectable considering how expensive luxury watchmaking can get.

However, a preowned SBGK007 is much more affordable, commonly found between the $3,700 and $4,500 range. Many used luxury watches look brand new if properly taken care of. Everyone likes a brand-new watch, but it’s not a necessity in the world of high-quality timekeepers.

As far as availability goes, the watch isn’t hard to find, but you should choose a retailer that understands Grand Seiko to its core. This is rarer than you might think, as many sellers are just trying to make a quick buck.

If you want an educational buyer’s experience accompanied by a historical understanding of GS and its craftsmanship, consider working with Exquisite Timepieces. This ensures you have the support you need in your decision-making process and answers to every question that crosses your mind.

At Exquisite Timepieces, you can easily access the Grand Seiko SBGK007 without having to worry about authenticity, quality, or customer service. 

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko may not be new to the luxury watch market, but they often impress newcomers and veterans alike. Between the unique movement and smart, stylish design choices, the SBGK007 is a personal favorite from the Elegance Collection.

What makes this watch an outstanding choice is that its styling will never stop being relevant. This same sentiment can be shared with the quality of Grand Seiko engineering, which continues to stand the test of time and push innovation.

Many watch collectors, myself included, have a bucket list of holy grail watches we hope to own one day. For some, it’s popular designs like the Rolex Submariner or the Omega Speedmaster. For me, though, it’s the Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Why? Because this is one of those pieces of technology that is impossible to replicate. 

No other watch brand has designed a movement quite like this one – a movement that not just tells the time but tells it almost perfectly, and two – a movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

But of course, with incredible technology often comes high price tags, and even though, when put into perspective, much of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive collection is very reasonably priced, it’s still out of reach for some. 

That said, there are a few designs in the collection that are the perfect entry-level pieces for those wanting to own a Spring Drive watch. One such model is the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439. It’s a watch that lacks very little in terms of design and technology and yet retails for less than $5,000. Shall we take a closer look? 

What is a Spring Drive Movement? 

Grand Seiko ultimately has three movement pillars to distinguish their watches. There are their 9F quartz models (some of the most accurate quartz watches in the world, I should add), their Hi-Beat models, and, of course, their Spring Drive watches. The latter is undoubtedly their best-known, for good reason. 

These are revolutionary watches that, in essence, use mechanical power as a reserve of energy with the help of a mainspring (a component used in all mechanical watches). The rotating wheel at the end of the gear train creates a small electrical charge that sends a signal to an integrated and quartz oscillator (the same used in quartz watches). 

It sounds complicated because it is. It’s a piece of proprietary technology Grand Seiko developed for several decades, first being initiated during the 1970s and later being launched in 1999, debuting at Baselworld that same year. 

The movement’s brilliance lies in a number of things, including its seconds hand, which is insanely smooth with a continuous motion – there’s none of that erratic ticking like a regular watch.

Spring Drive movements are also insanely accurate. To put it into perspective, even some of the most accurate mechanical watches on the market are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. The Grand Seiko Spring Drive, on the other hand, has an impressive tolerance of just +/- 1 second per day. 

Basically, you’re getting the accuracy of a quartz watch but with the artistry of mechanical watchmaking. It’s the best of both worlds in my opinion, and it’s for this reason so many watch collectors consider the Grand Seiko Spring Drive a prerequisite of a true luxury watch collection. 

OK, so back to the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch. This model was first released in 2021 alongside four other entry-level Spring Drive watches with silver, white, or champagne-colored dials. 

As mentioned in the introduction, trailblazing technology often comes with a price tag to warrant it. Typically, Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches retail from between $6,000 and $7,000, so to find one within the $4,000 bracket has become a huge win for those of us working with a smaller budget.

A Refined Steel Case

You might think that since the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive models in their portfolio, it will lack some of the luster and elegance of other designs in the collection. 

I thought that, too, honestly, but I was wrong. In fact, the SBGA439 wears just as beautifully as any other Spring Drive I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. It has a beautiful classic shape and wonderful dimensions that are going to suit pretty much any wrist size. 

It measures just 40mm wide, 12.3mm thick, and with a lug-to-lug width of 46.6mm. As someone with a five-and-a-half inch wrist, I typically max out watches at 40mm, but I have to admit, this model wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. And that’s not a bad thing. 

In fact, it’s incredibly compact, and I think that’s really down to the length of the case. It sits beautifully on my wrist, and yet I can just as easily imagine it on someone with a frame larger than myself. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 presents all the high levels of finishing we’ve come to expect from the Japanese watchmaker. The interior plains of the lugs and bracelet links are brushed, while the rest of the design, including the case sides, bezel, and aggressive line facets running down the case length, are brightly polished. 

These are created using the company’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a process done completely by hand, requiring several years of training and insane levels of attention to detail. The mirror finish is certainly worth the effort. 

For a nice touch of vintage appeal, the watch is topped by double-domed sapphire crystal glass with an anti-reflective coating for excellent visibility. There’s also a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, with slight knurled detailing, and the GS logo placed at the center in relief. The crown is ever so slightly recessed into the case for added protection without the need to add any bulky crown guards. 

Similarly, the case back is solid and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo and their legendary lion emblem. Both the case back and crown ensure a water resistance of 100 meters. The closed case back might be a letdown for some because it’s always nice to see the technology of the Spring Drive movement through a glass back, but minor sacrifices like this help keep the cost down. 

A Midnight Blue Dial 

If you’re even remotely familiar with Grand Seiko, then it’s very likely you’re aware that many of their dials are often patterned or intricately engraved. That’s not the case with the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch, however. Instead, the dial is kept simple and classic, yet somehow, it is still no less beautiful. 

It features this rich deep blue dial Grand Seiko called “Midnight Blue”. It has a subtle sunburst effect that radiates from the center of the display and creates this cool color-changing feature depending on the lighting conditions.

The dial appears royal blue in the bright light, and then, in darker areas, it seems almost pitch black. It’s a beautiful effect despite there being no obvious visual complexity. 

Of course, with this being a Grand Seiko dial, after all, the hardware placed at the center is not neglected by the brand’s hand-made craftsmanship. Every single hand and marker has been hand-finished by trained artisans to contribute their own element of light play.

Resting between the lined minute track in white, the large, hand-applied, and hand-polished hour markers glisten with every movement of the wrist. In a similar fashion, the hands are faceted and sharply finished, with the seconds hand freely rotating with not a single jump or splutter in sight – all thanks to the Spring Drive movement. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA43 watch does offer two complications. The first is the box-shaped date window at 3 o’clock, replacing its respective hour marker with a polished silver border and a nice color-matching date wheel. 

The other is the power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, printed in white with its own silver hand to showcase its remaining power. From there, the only other dial details are the Grand Seiko logos beneath the double 12 o’clock index and white ink lettering at 6 o’clock to denote the movement inside.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA43 watch is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. This is easily one of the better-known and most popular Spring Drive movements on the market, as it keeps things “simple” with just time, date, and power reserve. It’s still a world-class movement, and this is one of the reasons why this model is such a compelling point of value in the broader Grand Seiko lineup.

It delivers that silently and unbelievably smooth gliding seconds hand at the center and an accuracy of one second per day, or 15 seconds per month. It also boasts a weekend-proof 72-hour power reserve, so you can confidently take the watch off on a Friday and return it to your wrist on Monday, knowing it’ll still be keeping perfect time. Plus, the power reserve is on show on the dial, so it’s easy to keep track of when the watch might need a few hours of wear.

A Simple Steel Strap

Securing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch to the wrist is a bracelet we don’t often see from the Japanese watchmaker. It’s a standard, simply executed oyster-style bracelet with three links and a 20mm lug width. 

It has the same combination of brushed and polished surfaces as many of GS’s bracelets, but it doesn’t have the signature polished middle links. It’s still a beautiful, solid-looking, and feeling bracelet but does have a little less pizzazz than those with the added polishing. 

The bracelet tapers down to a push-button folding clasp decorated with the GS logo in relief. The lugs are drilled, so strap changes are easy, and with its 20mm lug width, you’ll have no trouble finding replacement straps elsewhere. 

Since it’s a standard Grand Seiko clasp, don’t expect to find any micro adjustment here. It does arrive with screws and half links, though, so a good level of close adjustment is still possible.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I’d recommend to almost anybody. The Spring Drive technology inside speaks for itself, and its combination of finishing, dial color, and dimensions make it one of the most versatile daily beaters from Grand Seiko. 

It has excellent wearability thanks to its 40mm width and relatively thin 12.3mm height. It sits even smaller than its width suggests, too, keeping comfy and compact thanks to the 46.6mm lug to lug. 

I’d confidently say that anyone with wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches can effortlessly pull off this watch, and it looks just as fantastic on wrists up to eight inches. Even if you have a larger frame but love the elegance of a smaller watch, this piece can still shine. Its slender profile makes it ideal for formal occasions, easily slipping under shirt cuffs. 

The rich blue dial color is also perfect for these occasions, adding a touch of sophistication and depth that enhances its overall elegance. It’s one of those watches that transitions between an everyday timepiece and a dress watch, perfect for those who want to invest in a good quality all-rounder. 

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439 watch is one of the most affordable Spring Drive offerings from the Japanese luxury watch brand, retailing for just $4,800. 

This will never not be an impressive price, especially when you take into account the high levels of detail, the hand-finishing, and, of course, the groundbreaking Spring Drive movement. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces to ensure you receive a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. 

The model can also be found on the second hand market for around $3,500 and $4,000 if you’re interested. It’s a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Heritage Spring Drive collection, so we don’t expect it to be disappearing anytime soon.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive “Midnight Blue” SBGA439 watch is one of those watches I truly believe not enough people know about. When you type Spring Drive into a search engine, you’ll instantly become inundated with examples of some of the Japanese brand’s more expensive models and conclude that these are watches you can’t afford. But that’s just not the case. 

Grand Seiko does boast an impressive line-up of entry-level Spring Drive models and the SBGA439 is one of the best. If you want a highly accurate timepiece with a flawless sweeping seconds hand, hand-finishing detailing, compact dimensions and a mesmerizing deep blue dial, you’ll struggle to find anything better than the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA439.

After testing and reviewing several Grand Seiko watches, I’ve grown accustomed to a particular style—sleek, compact, and elegant. The pieces I’ve worn are mostly ones you’d expect to see on formal occasions. I wouldn’t call them dainty, but there’s definitely a refined, dressier feel to many watches in the Grand Seiko catalog. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko excels at, it’s evolving while maintaining its signature quality. To reach a wider audience, the brand expanded its collection to include sports watches that match the elegance of its dress pieces. At the same time, it continues to innovate, improving its in-house movements with precise complications like chronographs and GMTs. 

Since 2010, GS has gained worldwide popularity for its variety of sports watches. These watches have shed the delicacy of dress watches and adopted a more robust and rugged look, all while maintaining the elegance that made Grand Seiko the household name it is today. 

While browsing through a variety of sports watch options, one model stood out as a true champion among heavyweights—the SBGE277. I often associate Grand Seiko pieces with art, but I can’t overstate the brilliance that radiates from this exquisite watch. Much like a masterpiece in the Louvre, the SBGE277 can only be fully appreciated in person.

History

As touched upon earlier, the developers at Grand Seiko believed that to become a legitimate contender in the watchmaking world dominated by Swiss manufacturers, they needed to expand their collection. In 2002, GS produced an instant classic with the SBGM001. 

The SBGM001 was the first Grand Seiko model to feature the 9S56 movement, marking the brand’s introduction of a GMT complication. With its black dial and striking red GMT hand, this watch made waves upon release for its design, functionality, and precision.

The 2010s marked a new chapter for Grand Seiko with the launch of the Sports Collection. The brand expanded beyond dress watches, introducing chronograph and GMT models, including some limited editions. This shift into tool watches helped Grand Seiko break the mold and gain recognition in international markets.

After an impressive showcase at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko kept the momentum going by announcing another wave of releases. Among them was the SBGE277, launched in May 2022. This timepiece boasts a commanding wrist presence, featuring a striking black dial and housing the remarkable in-house Caliber 9R65 movement.

Case

Every rugged dive watch requires a solid and durable case, and the SBGE277 delivers precisely that. As one of the larger GMT models in Grand Seiko’s lineup, it measures 44mm in diameter, 14.77mm thick, and has a lug-to-lug width of 50.8mm.

The watch’s double-domed sapphire crystal fits nicely into the case and doesn’t stick out as much, giving it a shallow, snug look. The screw-down crown is placed conveniently at the 4 o’clock marker.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this Grand Seiko GMT is the bezel. The last time I reviewed a GS GMT, it lacked a rotating bezel. It almost sounds childish, but as soon as I got my hands on the SBGE277, my fingers wrapped around the bezel and began rotating away.

The SBGE277 features a beautifully designed half-black, half-white bidirectional sapphire bezel. The action of the rotating bezel is smooth, and the satisfying click as it turns makes up for the silence of the Spring Drive movement. (Not to knock Grand Seiko’s innovative Caliber 9R66, but I have a soft spot for the ticking sound of traditional watches.)

As someone with a smaller wrist, the idea of wearing a GMT can be daunting. When I read the specs of the SBGE277, especially its 44mm diameter, I was already bracing myself for disappointment, expecting yet another oversized horological beauty that just wouldn’t fit.

But once again, I was proven wrong by the master craftsmen and women at the Grand Seiko Studios. The stainless steel case tapers inward, making the watch feel more like a 40mm than a 44mm. The curved lugs also hug the wrist, making the SBGE277 surprisingly comfortable to wear.

With a blend of Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing, the SBGE277 offers the ability to track three different time zones and boasts 200 meters of water resistance. It’s the ideal combination of sporty and elegant—exactly what you’d expect from Grand Seiko.

Dial

Grand Seiko is renowned for creating dials that are nothing short of remarkable. Whether it’s the color, intricate details, or textured finishes, it’s no surprise that GS consistently delivers some of the finest dials in the industry.

Seeing a picture of the SBGE277 online doesn’t do it justice. I may be exaggerating slightly, but to truly appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of this dial, you need to see it in person.

At the foot of the Hotaka Mountains lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Grand Seiko designs, produces, and adjusts all Spring Drive-powered watches. The SBGE277’s black textured dial is a tribute to this volcanic mountain range, inspired by the rugged beauty of the Hotaka peaks.

A bit reminiscent of the SBGE201 and its jet-black dial, the SBGE277 has a black dial filled with intricate details, staying true to Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired theme. Like the volcanic rock of Mt. Hotaka, the dial resembles obsidian, playing with light as it reflects off its surface.

The inner rehaut mirrors the outer bezel, featuring black and white odd-numbered markers. As expected, the silver Grand Seiko logo sits below the 12 o’clock marker, while the red GMT lettering and Spring Drive reminder in white are positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker.

The red GMT hand is a bold and striking feature, standing out beautifully against the black dial and adding an extra layer of visual appeal to the already stunning design. The hour and minute hands are exquisitely polished, while the seconds hand glides smoothly around the dial, thanks to the Caliber 9R66.

A power reserve indicator is neatly positioned between the 8 and 9 markers, providing a valuable reminder for when to manually wind the watch. Additionally, there’s a slim date window at the 4 o’clock position.

I saved my favorite detail for last. While a watch under light is beautiful, a watch you can rely on in the dark is even better. At its core, the SBGE277 is a tool watch, and its incredible lume ensures you can quickly tell the time, whether you’re diving or simply in a dark room.

The dauphine hands, indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and the outer bezel all feature LumiBrite for enhanced visibility. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the bezel, the luminescence extends around the edge, illuminating the watch’s notable and functional details.

Movement

With the high torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch, Grand Seiko developed an in-house movement that combined the two mechanisms. Their creation would stun the world and solidify the brand as one of the world’s elite watchmakers. 

The Spring Drive movement was the result of a 20-year journey to create a watch that could be considered a representation of time itself. Silent and continuous, this revolutionary movement debuted in 1999 and set forth a groundbreaking new era for Grand Seiko. 

Round and round it goes, never stopping in a continuous flow—what am I? The answer to this little riddle could be time itself, but it could just as easily be the seconds hand on a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Grand Seiko, first introduced in 2004.

The SBGE277 is powered by the Caliber 9R66. The successor of the 9R65, the Caliber 9R66 is the first Spring Drive with a GMT compilation. 

Precision has always been a core goal for Grand Seiko, and the SBGE277 delivers with remarkable accuracy, offering a deviation of ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month. 

The crown plays a crucial role in the functionality of the 9R66 movement, allowing for manual winding to power the watch. As you wind it, the power reserve indicator on the dial moves accordingly, letting you know how much energy is stored. With a 72-hour power reserve, the watch can run for several days before needing to be wound again.

Pulling the crown to its second position allows you to adjust the hour hand independently, making it easy for travelers to set the local time without disrupting the sweeping hand.

With its unparalleled accuracy, time-hacking capabilities, and mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand, the Caliber 9S66 that powers the SBGE277 elevates this already impressive entry in the Grand Seiko lineup. The elegant yet bold design of the case, the layered, textured dial, and the seamless flow of the second hand all come together to create a cohesive and striking timepiece.

Bracelet

The SBGE277 features a beautifully crafted stainless steel bracelet, showcasing the classic Grand Seiko three-link design. The polished inner links contrast elegantly with the brushed outer links, creating a striking balance. From the side, the links appear rounded and polished to perfection, producing a stunning shine that adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

The bracelet is equipped with screwed-in links, making it easy to remove and adjust for a thinner wrist. And if the lack of links feels uncomfortable or looks unbalanced, don’t worry! The clasp offers four micro-adjustment settings, giving you extra flexibility to achieve the perfect fit.

The term “strap monster” refers to a watch’s versatility when it comes to pairing with different straps and bracelets, and the SBGE277 fits this description perfectly. Its design allows it to shine no matter the strap choice.

With the SBGE277’s 21mm band width, strap options may be somewhat limited, but the drilled holes in the lugs make swapping straps a breeze—and, if you’re anything like me, it can become addictive!

On The Wrist

The SBGE277 was one of the larger watches I’ve tested, and that’s exactly what drew me to it. Could I make this horological titan fit comfortably on my smaller wrist?

For anyone with small wrist syndrome, the answer is yes. Thanks to the engineering brilliance of the Shinshu Watch Studio, Grand Seiko has mastered the art of creating timepieces that are “more than meets the eye.”

Despite its 44mm size, this watch feels more like a 40mm on the wrist. I was genuinely dumbfounded by how comfortable it was once I got it strapped on, though it did take me a while to adjust it properly—something I’ll explain shortly.

The angles of the case allow it to sit snugly on any wrist. Thanks to the micro-adjustments, the watch stayed perfectly in place without sliding or shifting around. It felt nothing like I expected, which makes me wonder if the craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko specifically designed this case to accommodate smaller wrists.

The obsidian dial is truly a marvel, and at the moment, it’s my favorite. While I haven’t had the chance to test many watches, the SBGE277 carries a distinct attitude. It’s rugged, bold, and hefty. The more I wore it, the more I felt like this was the least “Grand Seiko” Grand Seiko I’ve worn.

The sporty nature of the SBGE277 allowed me to do something I thought I’d never do with a Grand Seiko—out of pure respect for their artistry and craftsmanship. I changed the strap not once, not twice, but five times, switching between NATO straps, leather, and back to the original bracelet.

I felt like I was committing a sin, but the truth is, the SBGE277 was a fun watch to experiment with (of course, with caution since this was a test run). It’s a stylish brute of elegance, and even when it felt less formal, the intricacies and details always reminded me that this was still a Grand Seiko.

Price

The Grand Seiko SBGE277 is being sold at a retail price of $6,200, with pre-owned models typically ranging from $3,800 to $4,000. This remarkable watch is currently available at Exquisite Timepieces.

Closing Thoughts

Shed any preconceived notion of the Grand Seiko dress watch standard. The SBGE277 is a Grand Seiko masterclass in pushing boundaries. It consistently offers something new to admire every time you wear it. If you plan to get your first GMT or plan to add another one to your collection, stop searching and consider this: the likelihood of wearing a GMT that is as technologically advanced and tough as the SGBE277 is very, very slim. If the black volcanic dial doesn’t pique your interest, the lume doesn’t spark something in you, or the Spring Drive fails to move you, then stick to your run-of-the-mill GMTs. The SBGE277 is a watch for those who know, and if you know, you know. 

If you consider yourself a fan of Grand Seiko watches, there is no disputing that you’ll have admired the tapestry of design elements, techniques, and traditional processes that the watchmakers of this company endure to create such spectacular creations. 

But have you ever really, I mean really, taken the time to immerse yourself in Grand Seiko’s philosophy – the spirit of Takumi? It’s where the seeds are sown for every innovation, including the SBGK017. The beating hearts (the movements) of these timepieces, created under the Takumi practice, are all inspired by the Nature of Time and, as the namesake suggests, take cues from nature around us.

The History of the SBGK017

Grand Seiko released the SBGK017 in 2022 as part of its Elegance Collection. It takes inspiration from Nanbu Tekki ironware. This traditional style of metalwork originated from the Iwate District during Japan’s Edo period. 

The watch belongs to a series renowned for its ornate dials and elevating Zaratsu polishing technique. In this article, we’re going to delve into the finer details of the SBGK017. First, let’s look at how this classic dress watch came to be.  

Grand Seiko’s penchant for creating highly sophisticated, technical, and beautiful timepieces originates from Japan’s unwavering obsession to compete with Western watchmakers. It was this innate drive that Grand Seiko owes its success to. 

Japan had been working towards becoming more independent, undergoing rapid industrialization following the Meiji Restoration of 1868. Its approach to watchmaking was gradual and subtle up until World War II. Before then, the Swiss held a 50% share of the global watch market and were supplying almost 70% of watch components to Japan.

Swiss dominance continued throughout the Second World War, while many other countries focused on war efforts. After the war, Japan focussed on researching Swiss watchmaking techniques and exploring the tools, methods, and machinery the country used in the art and practice of quintessential Haute Horlogerie. 

During this time, the founder of Seiko, Kintaro Hattori, opened two factories that would compete internally with one another. One produced the King Seiko model. The other manufactured the Grand Seiko.

This inter-brand rivalry would eventually culminate in both companies achieving the gold standard in most chronometer trials rolled out across Switzerland. Seiko became a serious contender in manufacturing accurate, technically sophisticated, yet classical-looking watches, producing innovations on par with the Swiss. The company’s quartz technology arrived during the 1960s, revolutionizing the future of watchmaking.

Catastrophically, the Swiss Market dropped in shares from 40% to 10% by the 1980s, while Japanese brands, including Casio and Citizen, soared to success. 

The market for affordable digital wristwatches had exploded, with LEDs that gave way to LCD technology, promising longer battery life than ever before. However, the Japanese market stagnated in the 1990s due to the rise of Chinese production. To diversify its higher-end offerings, Grand Seiko re-launched itself in the late 2000s.

In 2017, it would become a fully independent sub-brand. Its focus remained to create the “ideal watch” – a symbol of refinement and technical elegance. This came just a year after the brand launched its first black ceramic watch and the 8-day power reserve Spring Drive movement. The Grand Seiko name moved from 6 o’clock to the very top of the dial, symbolizing its journey to full independence.

Subsequently, Grand Seiko watches became more elevated, more refined, and more superior. They began featuring beautiful hand-engraved dials, jewellery-like masterpieces, and models that boasted movements that were more precise and powerful than ever before.

However, it was in 2019 when Grand Seiko watches gained a new identity. The Elegance Collection introduced a new design direction for the manufacturer. 

These models promised the strength and resilience to be worn every day but the grace and finesse to bring sophistication to every eventuality. Despite bridging the gap between classic and contemporary, some models pay homage to milestone models from the brand’s past.

Over the last few years, the collection has expanded to accommodate some very special timepieces that demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship. Watches from this collection lean into the dressier side of watchmaking. 

The dials are free from any intricate complications, instead offering simpler features like a date or GMT function. The displays are also clean and classic, lending to a very universal palette.

It makes sense that the only naysayers of the Grand Seiko name are those who tend to have had very little time on the wrist with them. I dare say that to fully appreciate the palpable beauty of a watch from the Elegance Collection like the SBGK017; one does have to shake hands with the timepiece and really get to know it. 

Upon doing so, you’ll quickly come to realize that Grand Seiko watches are every bit as beautiful as collectors say they are. The Elegance Collection SBGK017 watch is most deserving of this reputation and is no exception to the rule, as you’re about to find out.

The Case

Let’s get the basics out of the way first…

The Proportions

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 has a diameter of 39mm and a case depth of 11.6mm. The lug-to-lug measurement of the case is 44mm, and the watch is also 30-meter water resistant. It takes on the style of those watches belonging to the brand’s Thin Dress Series with a relatively slim profile, enabling it to slip easily under the cuff of a shirt. 

Its slim case will favor the watch well when it comes to pairing it with elegant evening attire or an office suit. The model features an exhibition caseback that grants a clear view of the working movement inside (we’ll get to that bit later), along with a non-screw-down crown.

Here’s where the case design gets interesting, however. The underside of the case is concave in shape, allowing the watch to sit closer to the skin. Grand Seiko specialists design this case with comfort in mind. 

Subtle, discreet details like this really do go a long way to achieving a more ergonomic fit for everyday wear. Unlike, say, the 44GS watches, for example – this model is anything but aggressive and sharp. Instead, its soft and flowing curves bring about an organic structure, allowing it to wrap nicely around the smaller-than-average male wrist.

The Zaratsu Case Polish

If you’ve spent a considerable amount of time with Grand Seiko watches before, you’ll know that the Zaratsu polishing technique is an exclusive and highly distinguishable feature of the famous Japanese brand’s watches. But this signature style didn’t just come overnight. It took the brand several years to research, trialing many different techniques until this exquisite and unique-looking execution was finally mastered. 

By perfecting the technique of Zaratsu polishing, Grand Seiko experts were able to achieve flat, smooth surfaces without any undesirable light distortion. Rather than softening the angle of the ridge that forms where two planes meet, GS craftsmen shelved the idea of buffing and instead turned to the skill of Zaratsu. 

Despite the refinement of CNC machining and cold forging, the completion of a Grand Seiko case still requires the expert skills of artisans who can sand a case, buff it until it’s smooth, and then finish it with the Zaratsu polish. As you can imagine, not everyone can be trusted with such a role.

The word “Zaratsu” takes its name from the company that owned the machinery that created this magnificent case finish. The execution is achieved by holding a moving surface firmly while facing it head-on towards a rotating disc clad with sandpaper. The result is an extraordinarily smooth surface. 

To bring the surface up to a mirror-polished effect, a final buffing is applied to the metal. The complexity of this process is often underestimated by enthusiasts. While Zaratsu polishing gives the watch a distinctive edge over other high-end competitors, there are hurdles to overcome. 

While one section may be polished beautifully, the left and right sides of the case may be uneven. The only way to tackle the problem is to increase the pressure that holds the surface against the wheel while checking the entire piece over.  It’s both an art form and a responsibility that only a few can master.

The Glass and Crown

The double-domed sapphire crystal in this Grand Seiko SBGK017 is quite pronounced. It looks raised and box-like, capturing a subtle vintage charm. Combined with the lug-to-lug measurement and a depth of nearly 12mm, the glass undoubtedly contributes to these crowd-pleasing proportions. 

One particular feature that collectors seem to love about this watch is the refinements of the winding crown. When winding up the watch, the crown stamped with the iconic Seiko logo is butter-smooth under the fingertips, adding to that all-important premium feel. A directional brushing on the sides of the case was mixed with the mirror-polished technique, too. 

You may not be able to venture into deep waters with this 30-meter water-resistant watch, but this is not a style you’ll likely want to do that with. Nevertheless, Grand Seiko experts do a superb job of combining all the features you need in a dressy, all-around daily beater.

The Dial

The dial is probably where this Grand Seiko watch differentiates itself the most when compared to other designs in the collection. The dial has become the signature feature of some of the most highly desirable GS watches, and many from this series are inspired by nature. Take the iconic snowflake-inspired dials, those that mimic falling blossoms or those that feature organic, earthy colors, for example.

There is a concentric and almost patisserie-like style to this dial. The pattern, which starts large at the periphery of the dial, gets gradually smaller as the layers work toward the center of the display. The effect is almost spiral-like. 

The multi-faceted markers also taper. And this is not a dial you’d instantly associate with nature because, this time, Grand Seiko doesn’t draw inspiration from the great outdoors. Instead, the dial is inspired by the textures found in the traditional Japanese art of Nanbu Tekki.

Nanbu Tekki is an age-old form of ironwork, common from the 1600s right through to the 1800s. As this is a manmade artform, rather than inspiration taken from nature, it makes for a particularly unique dial from Grand Seiko. This dial represents an age of classicism, which is very fitting considering the collection it belongs to. 

The textured dial is finished with facetted hands and a tapering needle-like hand for the power reserve indicator. As mentioned, the small seconds feature resides at 9 o’clock, giving more space and focus to the simple timekeeping elements of the dial.  

Upon looking even closer at the dial, I noticed that the tip of the minute hand has a slight curvature to comply with the curve of the dial. This cleverly rids the dial of any distortion when looking in at it from the side. This is a really nice touch because it’s not a design feature we see in many modern watches today.

The Movement 

The Calibre 9S63 was produced in 2019 as part of the 9S series, constituting a tried and tested movement that has proved incredibly reliable over the years. The mechanical manual movement has an impressive 72-hour power reserve once fully wound, enabling it to keep perfect time when you’re alternating the watch with other favorites in your collection. 

With an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, the movement comprises 33 jewels for a smooth performance and has undergone an extensive regulation process that goes far beyond the standards we associate with those outside the METAS testing institute. 

The arrival of the Calibre 9S63 was an important one since it marked the first update within the 9S series in terms of a non-Spring Drive Calibre in 8 years. The reason for the wait stemmed from a complete overhaul of the movement and a redesign. 

It featured a small second sub-dial at 9 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Now, with 20% more components than before, this new generation 9S movement is a complete in-house effort. 

Painstaking efforts have been made to execute this movement. Even the grooves between each gear tooth have been polished by a watchmaker, one by one, to avoid friction. Fabricated parts of the movement are engineered by Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) technology, and tolerances of one-thousandth of a millimeter are tested and approved before the movement is fitted to the heart of the SBGK017.

The Bracelet 

Grand Seiko equips the SBGK017 model with a stylish 9-link bracelet that almost leans into Milanese bracelet territory. The links, although quite elongated, are packed tight into the design, enabling you to get a snug fit against the wrist despite the absence of a micro-adjustment feature. 

This model also comes with an additional black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel buckle to match the case design. The Seiko logo has been engraved into the fastening, doubling up as a symbol of authenticity and quality craftsmanship. 

The bracelet begins at 19mm at the lug end and then slowly transitions into a slightly slimmer clasp end, measuring in at 18mm. Tapering bracelets do, of course, create the impression of a smaller and more manageable fit on the wrist. Those collectors with wrists measuring on the smaller side will appreciate this element of the bracelet’s design.

As with every high-end purchase, a collector is going to want all the little trimmings that come with a special purchase like this, and Grand Seiko knows this. The manufacturer includes the paperwork outlining the regulations of the watch, which I think is a really nice touch. Of course, you also get the instructions booklet and the warranty certificate, along with a genuine Grand Seiko presentation box to keep the watch safe.

How does it wear?

You’ll recall that earlier in this review, I mentioned that the SBGK017 belongs to the Thin Dress Series of the Evolution 9 concept. This collection launched back in 2019 with an intentional and purposeful design language – to wear at every opportunity. So, it’s not like these dress watches should be reserved for the finest of occasions. Moreover, the watch makes every occasion feel the finest.

As I also mentioned, the 39mm case is compact, which lends itself well to smaller-wristed males, as does the tapering bezel. The domed dial and curving minute hand, not to mention the concave underside of the case, all make for a comfortable and ergonomic fit on the wrist.

Price and Availability

If you love the impeccable finishing on a Grand Seiko watch as much as I do, you’ll agree that watches like this are every bit worth their price tag. You’ll struggle to find a similar case finishing for this price category elsewhere on the market. 

The watch has a richness and a depth to it that feels high-end, but when you compare it with some more expensive mechanical options out there, the level of finishing is much more superior. The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is priced at $8,900, which, if you ask me, is hard to argue with.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko SBGK017 is a well-executed and truly great design, especially if you’re looking for a brand that will give you that high-end feel but without the five-figure price tag.

The refined movement, with components made from anti-shock and anti-magnetic alloys, is resistant to magnetic damage and able to deliver incredible accuracy inside slim proportions. The Zaratsu polishing and brushing techniques are a nice blend. 

They add depth to the design, not to mention a high-end feel. The classic black dial is sure to pair well with all attire, and the case itself is geared towards those who struggle with larger watches sitting within the 41mm+ category.

On the whole, this is another stellar example of Grand Seiko’s Elegance Collection DNA. Ideal for wearing as a sophisticated companion with evening attire, you also have the chance to change the metal band over to something more casual from Grand Seiko’s strap range or, indeed, the additional black alligator leather strap it comes with.