Let’s be honest with ourselves—watch collecting is a niche hobby. In today’s day and age, most people wear smartwatches, and if they happen to have a “nice” watch on, it’s usually something that ticks from a department store.
Not that I’m hating on quartz watches or fashion brand watches. I’m not. I just have to remind myself, sometimes, that perspective is important in trying to engage an audience with important information.
If you surveyed a room of one hundred “watch civilians,” I’d guess the following: at least 95 out of 100 could easily recognize a Rolex; at least 50 had owned a watch at some point in their lives—including cheap cereal box watches from the nineties; about 15 would consider acquiring an expensive watch as a milestone purchase one day, with virtually all of them ultimately settling on a Rolex.
Such is the iconic status of Rolex. It is truly one of the most recognizable brands today, regardless of the industry. And so, being a “watch guy,” I am often asked the inevitable: “What entry-level Rolex should I purchase?”
The question carries weight—because with Rolex, it’s never just about telling time but rather about finding the perfect timepiece for your needs. Heavy is the crown and heavier still is the choice…
The Rolex Explorer Collection
The Explorer is my favorite Rolex—period. I love the mountains and the outdoors, and something about a robust three-hander without complications just gets me going.
The Rolex Explorer’s claim to fame came in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore Rolex Explorers during their historic ascent of Everest.
This iconic moment cemented the watch’s reputation as a reliable companion for those who push the boundaries of exploration. With its straightforward design and dependable build, the Explorer continues to honor that legacy, offering a blend of ruggedness and elegance that appeals to those who appreciate both adventure and heritage.
Today, the standard Explorer is available in 36mm and 40mm, fitting the vast majority of wrists out there, both male and female. The 36mm can be had for $7,350, and the 40mm retails for $7,800. If you are interested in adding a bit of “pizzazz” to your wrist, then you should opt for the two-tone explorer, available in 36mm and retailing for $12,700.
Of course, if we are discussing the Explorer collection, we have to mention the iconic Explorer II. First released in 1971 with the reference 1655, it wasn’t until the reference 16550, introduced in 1985, that the Explorer II gained a true GMT function, allowing the wearer to independently set the 24-hour hand to track a second timezone.
Since then, all subsequent Explorer II models have retained the GMT functionality, making them more versatile for travelers. Available solely in a 42mm stainless steel case, the current Explorer II can be purchased with either a black or white dial for $9,750.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection
Essentially the “foundation” of Rolex, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is often the first Rolex many people experience, and for good reason.
It’s the perfect blend of luxury and flexibility—a watch that can be easily worn with a pair of jeans or a suit. Its name comes from Rolex’s Oyster case, introduced in 1926 as the world’s first truly waterproof wristwatch.
Subsequently, in 1931, Rolex added its Perpetual self-winding movement—hence the name “Oyster Perpetual.” So, while the Oyster Perpetual wasn’t Rolex’s first watch, it was the watch that truly laid the groundwork for the brand.
Most Rolex watches today are technically Oyster Perpetuals in the sense that they have an Oyster case and a Perpetual movement. But the simple Oyster Perpetual model remains the purest version of Rolex’s legacy.
The Oyster Perpetual comes in a variety of stylish colors, with green being one of my favorites! The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is offered in 41mm and 36mm variations for men, with smaller 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm options also available.
This watch is crafted with a stainless steel case and a COSC-certified automatic movement, making it both robust and precise.
Don’t be tricked by the nomenclature: The Oyster Perpetual is very capable; with 100m of water resistance and Rolex’s legendary build quality, it can be a “Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything” (GADA) watch.
With a starting price of around $5,650 for the 28mm version and reaching up to $6,500 for the 41mm, the Oyster Perpetual is a great value proposition, especially when considering that these watches really don’t lose their value.
Rolex Explorer vs Oyster Perpetual – How to Choose
Ultimately, you can’t go wrong with the Explorer or the Oyster Perpetual, regardless of size, model, or case materials. Modern Rolex watches are built to extraordinary standards—they truly stand the test of time and can be passed down from generation to generation.
Don’t believe me? Take a look at the price of vintage Explorers and Oyster Perpetuals. They are highly sought after and usually priced above the MSRP of when they were first sold.
So here are some questions you need to ask yourself. Do you travel a lot? If so, does a GMT make sense to you? Do you like larger, more robust watches with rotating bezels? Then maybe you should take a look at the Explorer II, which is extremely sought after, especially for business executives on the go.
Are you an outdoorsy person who needs a rugged yet elegant watch? Do you want more options in terms of sizing while still maintaining a utilitarian style? You should take a look at the Explorer.
My preference is for 36mm, but I have 6.5-inch wrists, which is on the lower end of the average for men. Consider that “smaller” watches are currently in, and historically, a smaller watch will remain sought after, even during “larger” watch wearing trends. And if you want something bigger, the 40mm is available.
Do you like to express your style with color and flair? Or, perhaps, you desire a watch that flies under the radar while maintaining the quality and heritage of Rolex?
You should definitely opt for the Oyster Perpetual, available in a multitude of colors, with the “Celebration” dial being the loudest, and a traditional champagne or black dial is classic, understated, and versatile.
Conclusion
Ultimately, the best thing about watches and fashion is that there is great fluidity to them. It comes down to the three p’s: preference, purpose, and personality. It comes down to you.
The Explorer and the Oyster Perpetual are two sides of the same coin—both unmistakably Rolex, yet designed for different kinds of watch lovers. If you’re drawn to the idea of a watch with a sense of adventure, a tool built for the outdoors, something rugged yet refined, the Explorer is a perfect fit.
It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t just sit on your wrist—it becomes part of your story. Whether you’re hiking, traveling, or just appreciating the craftsmanship of a well-built timepiece, the Explorer never feels out of place.
But maybe you want something simpler, something that flies under the radar while still carrying all the prestige of the crown.
The Oyster Perpetual is pure Rolex—no frills, no complications, just a timeless design that works with anything. It’s an everyday watch in the best way possible, and with its range of colors and sizes, it lets you express a bit more personality.
At the end of the day, there’s no wrong choice—just the right watch for you.
The Rolex Explorer 2 is one of those watches that has a cult following, and for good reason. It’s rugged and instantly recognisable, carrying that unmistakable Rolex DNA.
It was originally designed in 1971 for spelunkers (that’s just a fancy word for cave explorers), with the intention of helping adventurers distinguish between day and night in total darkness. But let’s be real, most people you’ve spotted wearing it have never once set foot in a deep underground cave.
That’s because over the years, the Rolex Explorer II has evolved from a niche tool watch into something much bigger. With its bold 24-hour bezel, independent GMT hand, and no-nonsense steel construction, it’s now a go-to choice for travelers, collectors, and basically anyone who just appreciates a cool, solid timepiece.
But after all these years, is the Rolex Explorer 2 still worth the hype? Is it well and truly a watch deserving of adventuring or is it just another luxury sports watch riding on its own legend?
A Quick History of the Rolex Explorer
The Rolex Explorer is one of the brand’s most understated models in my opinion. It’s not quite as well known as the Rolex Submariner with its rotating diver’s bezel or the chronograph-equipped Daytona. It’s also not quite as timeless as the Rolex Day-Date.
That’s because it’s built for one thing: adventure. But while it may be one of Rolex’s simplest designs, it carries a history that’s anything but ordinary.
The Rolex Explorer was officially introduced in 1953, the same year Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Rolex had already been testing its watches in extreme conditions, including on previous Everest expeditions, and the Explorer was born from those experiences.
Built for durability, legibility, and reliability, it featured a clean black dial, high-contrast numerals at 3, 6, and 9, and a robust steel case designed to handle whatever the elements threw at it.
Over the years, the Rolex Explorer became the ultimate “go anywhere, do anything” watch. It was simple, reliable, and versatile enough to be worn from the mountains to the boardroom.
The reference 1016, produced from 1960 to 1989, remains one of the most beloved Explorers of all time, known for its timeless design and impressive longevity.
Even as Rolex introduced new variations, including a brief move to a 39mm case in 2010, the Explorer has largely stuck to its roots, staying true to its original purpose as a rugged, no-frills tool watch.
Then, in 1971, Rolex expanded the Explorer lineup with a brand-new model suitably named the Explorer 2. While it shared the same spirit as the original, it was designed for a different kind of adventurer, spelunkers, or cave explorers, who needed a way to distinguish between day and night in total darkness.
The Rolex Explorer II featured a fixed 24-hour bezel and an extra orange-tipped hour hand, originally functioning as an AM/PM indicator. Over time, it evolved to include independent GMT functionality, making it a popular choice for travelers as well.
Today, the Rolex Explorer and Rolex Explorer 2 continue to be staples in the brand’s lineup. They’re not as flashy as a Day-Date or as hyped as a Submariner, but that’s exactly what makes them special.
Built for adventure yet understated enough for everyday wear, they appeal to those who appreciate rugged functionality without the need for excess attention. Now without further ado, let’s get up close and personal with the Rolex Explorer II and see if it truly lives up to its status…
The Case
One of the defining features of the Rolex Explorer II is its robust and no-nonsense case. At 42mm in diameter, it’s on the larger side for a Rolex sports model, but that added wrist presence makes sense given the watch’s tool-watch DNA. It’s built to be legible, durable, and ready for adventure, whether you’re actually exploring caves or just navigating your daily routine.
Crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel (a 904L stainless steel alloy), the case is highly corrosion-resistant and maintains its polished sheen even under harsh conditions.
Rolex originally introduced 904L steel in the 1980s, borrowing the material from aerospace and chemical industries where extreme durability is a necessity. In real-world use, that means the Explorer II can handle almost anything, whether it’s saltwater, sweat, or the occasional scrape without losing its luster.
The case follows Rolex’s classic Oyster architecture, which means a monobloc middle case, a screw-down case back, and a screw-down Twinlock crown to ensure a water resistance rating of 100 meters.
That may not be as deep as a Submariner, but for a watch designed primarily for land-based adventure, it’s more than enough. The Twinlock system provides a secure seal against moisture and dust, and unlike the chunkier Triplock crown on the Submariner and GMT-Master II, the Rolex Explorer II’s crown is slightly smaller and more integrated into the case design. The crown guards also follow Rolex’s recent design tweaks, appearing more angled and streamlined compared to previous versions.
Then there’s the bezel which is arguably one of the most recognizable features of the Rolex Explorer 2. Unlike the ceramic bezels found on many modern Rolex sports models, the Explorer II sticks with its traditional brushed stainless steel bezel, engraved with a black-filled 24-hour scale.
Some collectors speculated that Rolex might introduce a ceramic version with some of their newest references, but in keeping with tradition, they wisely stuck to the brushed steel.
On the wrist, the case has a commanding yet balanced feel. The mostly brushed finish gives it a utilitarian appearance, but the polished sides of the case add just the right amount of refinement.
Rolex also adjusted the proportions slightly in recent years by widening the bracelet and slimming the inner edges of the lugs. While these tweaks are subtle, they help improve the overall balance and wearability of the watch, making it feel more proportionate despite its 42mm size.
Topping it all off is a sapphire crystal with Rolex’s signature Cyclops lens over the date. While Rolex historically avoided heavy anti-reflective coatings, recent models feature improved inner-surface coatings to reduce glare and improve legibility.
Combined with the bright, high-contrast dial and large markers, the Rolex Explorer II remains one of the most readable Rolex watches in any lighting condition.
The Dial
Speaking of legibility, the dial of the Rolex Explorer 2 is designed with absolute clarity in mind. Whether you opt for the classic black display or the striking white “Polar” dial, readability is exceptional as you’d expect.
Each dial comes with bold geometric hour markers which include a mix of triangles, circles, and rectangles so legibility is instant. The high-contrast design of the Polar dial is particularly impressive with the stark white background offset by deep matte black markers and hands, a combination rarely seen in Rolex’s lineup.
The black dial version, by contrast, uses polished white gold markers and hands filled with Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight luminescent material, giving it a more traditional but equally effective look.
Another defining feature of the Rolex Explorer 2 is its bold orange GMT hand, a nod to the original 1971 reference 1655. Unlike the modern GMT-Master II, which features a rotating bezel for tracking a second time zone, the Explorer II uses a fixed, 24-hour-engraved steel bezel.
This means the GMT hand is primarily intended as an AM/PM indicator for those operating in environments where day and night distinctions are blurred. That being said, the GMT hand can still be used to track a second time zone, making the Explorer 2 an equally functional travel companion.
Of course, no Rolex sports model would be complete without the brand’s signature Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o’clock. The magnification makes the date easier to read, once again adding to the dial’s reputation for legibility.
Finally, the dial is completed by some simple lettering for the EXPLORER II logo at 12 o’clock, printed in orange to match the GMT hand, and markings for the Superlative Chronometer certified movement at 6 o’clock.
The Movement
The Rolex Explorer II runs on the caliber 3285, the same movement found in the GMT-Master II. If that sounds like Rolex cutting corners, it’s not. The 3285 is a thoroughly modern movement built to handle both everyday wear and the kind of punishment you’d expect from a watch
designed for explorers. It’s chronometer-certified, accurate to within +2/-2 seconds per day, and packs a 70-hour power reserve which is more than enough to keep ticking through a weekend off the wrist.
Where the Explorer 2 diverges from the GMT-Master II is in how it uses its 24-hour hand. Since the bezel is fixed, this isn’t a watch designed to juggle three time zones at once. Instead, it stays true to its roots by helping the wearer distinguish day from night in environments where the sun isn’t a reliable indicator.
The independently adjustable local hour hand still makes it a useful travel companion, but it’s clear that Rolex intends this watch for those who need a rugged, no-nonsense tool rather than a jet-setter’s accessory.
Functionally, it’s as practical as it gets. The hacking seconds function allows for precise time setting, and the quick-set local hour hand makes adjusting for time zones a breeze.
The date mechanism, which as mentioned is viewed through the Cyclops lens, jumps instantly at midnight, rather than creeping forward. These are small details, but ones that Rolex gets right.
The Strap
The strap for the Rolex Explorer 2 is exactly what you’d expect. It’s a solid three-row link 904L stainless steel Oyster bracelet that is durable, comfortable, and secure.
It comes with a handsome brushed finish that matches the rugged, tool-watch aesthetic of the case. There’s no polished center link here either, just a utilitarian design that feels every bit as refined as it does functional.
The bracelet is secured with Rolex’s Oysterlock folding safety clasp, designed to prevent accidental opening. It’s a small but critical feature, especially for those who intend to put the watch through its paces in unpredictable conditions.
And because comfort is just as important as security, Rolex has included the Easylink extension system, allowing for a quick 5mm adjustment without the need for tools.
The integration between case and bracelet is seamless, with solid end links that flow perfectly into the lugs. Rolex has never been one to cut corners when it comes to their bracelets, and it shows here; the brushed surfaces are crisp, the taper of the bracelet feels just right, and the overall balance on the wrist is impeccable.
And while the Oyster bracelet is undoubtedly the perfect match for the Explorer 2, Rolex has given you options. With a 21mm lug width, you could swap in a rubber or leather strap if you really wanted to, but honestly, it’s hard to imagine anything looking better than the bracelet it comes with.
On-Wrist Experience
The Rolex Explorer 2 has never been a delicate watch and the models in the current collection carry that tradition forward. At 42mm in diameter and 12.5mm thick, it has a definite presence on the wrist. It’s substantial enough to feel like a proper tool watch, but not so bulky that it
becomes cumbersome. It won’t disappear under a fitted shirt cuff, but it’s still comfortable enough for all-day wear.
Thanks to the updated case proportions and subtly refined bracelet that came with the 2021 Explorer II, the watch feels well-balanced, with the weight evenly distributed across the wrist.
The fully brushed Oyster bracelet keeps things secure without sacrificing comfort, and the Easylink extension ensures a perfect fit no matter the situation.
If you have a wrist in the 6.5 to 7.5 inch range, the 42mm case will wear well, sitting broad but not overwhelming. On smaller wrists, it will lean further into its tool-watch identity, offering that decisive, adventure-ready aesthetic with an oversized look, but one that looks purposeful.
Price & Availability
The Rolex Explorer 2 holds a prominent position in the luxury watch market and that’s mirrored in its pricing and availability. As of March 2025, the retail price for a new Explorer II stands at around $9,750. However, due to high demand and limited availability, getting one isn’t easy.
There are a lot of long waiting lists with authorised retailers, and any retailer online suggesting they have them in stock probably deserves a second look.
Because of their current allusivity, Rolex Explorer 2 watches have increased prices on the pre-owned market. Of course, prices vary depending on the condition, age and provenance, but from looking, most models are selling for around $10,000 to $12,800.
If you are going to purchase pre-owned, just be sure you’re choosing a reputable retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. We ensure all of our pre-owned Rolex watches are genuine and we’ll ensure your model comes with the box, papers and official warranty.
Conclusion
If you were to ask me, then yes, the Rolex Explorer 2 more than lives up to its reputation. Sure, it’s a luxury sports watch but it’s equally a rugged, adventure-ready timepiece with real functionality and a history to back it up. It’s clearly built to withstand the elements but also maintains Rolex’s classic design language and drive for precision.
And while it might not be as popular as the Submariner or Daytona, it’s still a staple for those who appreciate durability, reliability, and understated style.
It’s mainly a watch for people who need more than just aesthetics. Travelers will benefit from the independent GMT function, collectors will appreciate its heritage, and those who prefer a no-nonsense tool watch will find it a perfect fit.
With its 42mm case and well-balanced proportions, it offers wrist presence without unnecessary bulk, making it suitable for both rugged environments and daily wear.
Availability can be a challenge, but let’s be honest, that just adds to the Explorer 2’s appeal. Demand often exceeds supply, so that keeps both retail and pre-owned prices strong so if you’re looking at a Rolex as an investment, it might be a smart choice.
All in all, the Rolex Explorer 2 is a watch that delivers where it matters. It’s tough enough to handle real-world adventures, refined enough for everyday wear, and built with the level of craftsmanship that has made Rolex a household name.
In the years that Rolex has dominated the market, we have seen them have their fair share of changes and revolutions to further cement the brand as one of the best to ever do it.
So much traction and publicity surrounds Rolex that every minor change they make to their lineup winds up being a major headline. One of the most recent big changes is the cancellation of the Submariner 40mm and the rise of the 41mm.
The Submariner series is a model that has continued to disrupt the entire industry. Part of the reason Rolex has reigned supreme for so long is because of the iconic legacy that this watch holds.
Since its release, the Submariner has always been sized at 40mm or less, which is why it was such a major headline when Rolex suddenly enlarged the Oyster case to 41mm and canceled the production of the 40mm altogether.
But what other features were changed besides the size, and why did Rolex feel like it was necessary to make these changes? Today, we will be comparing the 40mm to the 41mm and examining what stands out between the two and how one could potentially outperform the other.
40mm
The History of the Submariner is one of great importance. In a way, the Submariner is responsible for the reputation of Rolex itself. The cultural relevance that this piece holds is, quite frankly, too massive to capture fully.
Just know that everything that has come after the original Submariner has—in some way—been shaped by the iconic design.
When Rolex created their first diver in 1953, it wasn’t until six years later, in 1959, that the Submariner case was increased to 40mm, and the crown guards were added.
Over time, the design stuck, and with how famous Rolex is for hardly ever tampering with their designs, the Submariner still stood out as one of the least altered models in the entire catalog.
The Reference 6204 is generally accepted as the debut Submariner. Upon its debut, it drew instant comparisons to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which is healthily considered one of if not the first dive watch ever created.
Since it shared many of the same features as the Fifty Fathoms (jet black dial, same hour and minute hands, and an inverted triangle), it was difficult to tear away and make an authentic name for itself. But Rolex eventually revealed a trick up its sleeve that perhaps no one saw coming.
The Oyster case was equipped with a specific winding crown system that came with a gasket that could screw into a tube inside of the case itself.
This proved to offer a tremendous level of water protection that outshined the competition, eventually causing the Submariner to become the first-ever diver to be able to outlast 100 meters of water pressure.
The aesthetical prowess of the Submariner cannot be understated either. It has a sophisticated nature while also being subtle enough to style with casual wear.
The more models that were produced, the more seriously the community viewed them until, eventually, after a decade of fine-tuning and perfecting, The Submariner finally settled down and seemed to be consistent with its design. In 1959, the ref. 5512 provided a solid foundation for all Submariner models going forward, and the design has been virtually consistent ever since.
The turn of the century found increased demand for a larger submariner, with some suggesting that 40mm was much too small for a modern sports model. It made sense. Watches of similar style were advancing in size.
This caused Rolex to take a step back and subtly refine the case of the 1166xx series. While still 40mm, the Super Case of the 1166xx had thicker lugs, crowns, and guards, which gave the impression of a more durable watch.
This caused a fair amount of controversy as some fans appreciated the thicker size, while some still longed for the classic design of past references.
It would take until 2020, however, until Rolex finally decided to make a significant change that proved to silence the controversy and please all of its buyers.
The 1266xx was released as the first-ever Submariner to exceed 40mm, declaring the end of an age and the start of something new and spectacular.
41mm
With softened elements that provide an increased sense of elegance, the new Submariner also keeps the angular design of past reference models, causing a perfect blend of new and old features to please both sides of the spectrum.
It captures more of a vintage feel, taking surprisingly short strides to separate itself from its predecessor, holding on to the older look much tighter than anyone expected.
The lugs are longer and slimmer, and the crown guards are significantly thinner, trimming the aesthetic down and supplying the watch with a much more tapered profile, so for the Submariner fans who perhaps thought that previous generations were too bulky, this new edition may prove to be ideal.
Other measurements have been changed aside from the case. For example, the bracelet has been increased from 20mm to 21mm.
There are now two crowns that appear on the dial, and the “Swiss Made” text that used to be on older models is now separated by the Rolex crown between the two words.
Perhaps the most innovative feature is the upgraded movement. For more than 30 years, the Submariner has been driven by the Cal. 3135, one of the most popular and finest mass-produced movements ever crafted.
Even so, Rolex decided it was time to retire the dated movement and focus their sights on something fresh. Now, the Submariner—and many other Rolex models—are powered by the Cal. 3235, which has revolutionized modern pieces, improving upon nearly everything within, making them more efficient and more precise.
The 41mm seeks only to improve, aiming to upgrade every aspect of the older models. It doesn’t try to be too much, not exactly flipping the original on its head, but doing just enough to make noticeable improvements.
Rolex has maintained the Submariner’s reputation through their innovative minds, evolving not only the Submariner but the majority of their pieces to fit the new demand of the market. It’s no wonder how they have a virtually flawless reputation.
40mm vs. 41mm—How to choose.
As of today, Rolex no longer sells the 40mm Submariner, though—in my opinion—there is no reason why anyone would realistically prefer the 40mm to the 41mm other than rarity value. The 41mm is simply the better alternative, as it improves virtually everything, leaving nothing more to be desired.
From a collector’s perspective, you may be eager to get your hands on one of the retired 40mm, but other than a few specific instances, I would have to wholeheartedly recommend the 41mm as the superior piece.
Conclusion
Rolex is a brand that constantly demands respect. Even though most would agree it took them much too long to upgrade the Submariner, the common consensus is that the new 41mm is one of the most spectacular watches they have ever produced.
For a brand to stay at the top for so long, it cannot be pushed around by the market; it has to adapt to change while making innovative decisions to propel publicity and get both new and old fans excited for improvements.
The Submariner did just that. Now, as it continues its reign as one of the top divers available, it’s only a matter of time before the next upgrade is needed because the luxury watch market is never silent, and when brands start getting too comfortable, they will undoubtedly miss out on the next big thing.
If I can leave you with any advice, it would be to trust Rolex. History has proven that they never get too comfortable, as they are always seeking to push the boundaries and meet the enviable shift in the market with their own shifts as well.
When we think about watches and which one to buy for ourselves, most of us focus on the dial, the case, or maybe the movement inside. But the bracelet is often an afterthought.
It really shouldn’t be though, because the strap can make a huge difference to the watch. It doesn’t just keep it secured to your wrist, but it plays a huge part in how the watch looks, feels and even wears over time.
And if there’s one brand that’s absolutely nailed the art of bracelet design, it’s Rolex. Over the decades, Rolex has introduced a handful of iconic bracelets, but two stand out above the rest: the President bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet.
If you’ve spent any time browsing Rolex watches, you’ve probably seen both. The President has a bold and luxurious three-link design while the Jubilee gives off more of a vintage vibe with its intricate, dressy five-link construction.
But what’s the real difference between them? Is one better than the other? And most importantly, which one is the best match for you and your style? That’s exactly what we’re about to break down in this head-to-head battle of Rolex’s two iconic bracelets.
The Rolex President Bracelet
If there’s one bracelet in the world of watches that screams power, prestige, and luxury, it’s the Rolex President.
Even if you’re not a hardcore watch enthusiast, chances are you’ve seen this bracelet before whether it’s wrapped around the wrist of a world leader, a celebrity, or perhaps in a glitzy Rolex display case.
There’s something undeniably regal about the President bracelet, and that’s no accident. Rolex designed it to make a statement, and over the decades, it’s become just as iconic as the watches it’s attached to.
The President bracelet made its debut in 1956, exclusively designed for the launch of the Rolex Day-Date, a watch that was itself groundbreaking since it was the first to display both the date and the full day of the week spelled out on the dial.
Rolex didn’t just want the Day-Date to be another luxury timepiece though, they wanted it to be a watch that symbolizes success and status. So they created a bracelet to match, one that was bold, beautiful, and reserved only for the brand’s most prestigious models.
The Rolex President is a three-piece link design, but unlike the flat, wide links of the sporty Oyster bracelet it has semi-circular, almost little D-shaped links, that give the bracelet a rounded, almost fluid look as it catches the light.
It’s also noticeably more substantial and weighty on the wrist compared to the Oyster which only further adds to its luxurious feel. It’s one of those watch straps that feels like jewellery, but still with the durability and comfort you want in a high-end timepiece.
You’ll only ever find the President bracelet on Rolex watches made from precious metals. Rolex doesn’t do stainless steel when it comes to this bracelet. Instead, the President is exclusively crafted from 18k gold (yellow, white, or Everose) or platinum, ensuring that every time it’s worn, it feels like a statement of status.
You’ll most commonly see it on the Day-Date, which many people now casually refer to as the “Rolex President” because of the bracelet, but it also appears on certain versions of the Lady-Datejust in precious metals.
So why is the Rolex President bracelet called the President? The name first emerged in 1965 when U.S. President Lyndon B. Johnson was regularly seen wearing a yellow gold Day-Date with the newly designed bracelet.
Rolex even ran an advertisement referring to it as “the President’s watch” and from that moment on, the name stuck. In fact, it wasn’t long before the bracelet itself became known as the “President bracelet,” even though Rolex had originally just called it the Day-Date bracelet.
There’s also a popular story about Dwight D. Eisenhower being gifted a gold Rolex with a similar bracelet, but that was actually an Oyster bracelet, not the President.
Still, by the time Johnson put it on his wrist and countless other world leaders, CEOs, and Hollywood icons followed suit, the association between the Day-Date, the President bracelet, and a symbol of power was locked in forever.
One of the most unique aspects of the President bracelet is its hidden Crownclasp. Unlike traditional watch clasps that are visible when closed, the Crownclasp blends seamlessly into the design.
Once fastened, you can only see the iconic Rolex crown logo, making it look like the bracelet has no visible opening at all. It’s subtle, refined, and just another example of the attention to detail that Rolex are well known for.
Over the years, Rolex has played around with some variations of the President bracelet. Some vintage models feature a “bark finish” on the center link, a textured effect that mimics the look of tree bark. Others have appeared adorned with diamonds or other embellishments.
But the core design has remained largely unchanged since 1956, which is a testament to how perfect the President bracelet really is.
The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet
If you know anything about Rolex, you’ll know the Jubilee bracelet is a bit of a legend in its own right. It’s one of those designs that’s instantly recognizable the moment you spot those small, intricate links shimmering on someone’s wrist.
And while the Jubilee bracelet was originally designed for dress watches, it’s found its way onto some of Rolex’s sportier models too, proving it can do both sophistication and casual cool rather effortlessly.
The Rolex Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 and was specifically created to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, hence the name Jubilee.
Rolex needed a bracelet that would match the grandeur of their newest release, the Datejust, a groundbreaking watch that was the first to display an automatically changing date on the dial. Naturally, a watch this special needed a bracelet to match, so Rolex came up with something entirely new.
Unlike the bold three-link Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee featured a more intricate five-piece link design, combining brushed outer links with three smaller, polished center links. The result was a bracelet that looked dressy, felt incredibly comfortable, and oozed understated luxury.
Initially, the Jubilee bracelet was available only in solid gold, underscoring its status as a true luxury accessory. But as time went on, Rolex began introducing two-tone (Rolesor) and stainless steel versions, allowing more people to experience the Jubilee’s charm without the eye-watering price tag of solid gold.
That shift also paved the way for the Jubilee to appear on a wider variety of models than the Datejust. That again made it more versatile in both style and appeal.
One of the defining features of the Jubilee bracelet is how it drapes around your wrist. The five-link design with three smaller inner links and two larger outer links makes it incredibly flexible and comfortable to wear.
It’s less rigid than the Oyster bracelet which gives it a more elegant, jewelry-like feel. And the way the polished center links catch the light is beautiful.
The Rolex Jubilee didn’t stay exclusive to the Datejust for long. In 1959, Rolex fitted it to the newly introduced GMT-Master, a pilot’s watch designed for international travelers. The combination of a tool watch and a dressy Jubilee bracelet was a bold move, but it worked.
The polished center links added a touch of refinement to an otherwise rugged timepiece, making it the perfect travel companion for those who appreciated both function and style.
Over the years, the Jubilee bracelet has undergone a few subtle changes. Early versions from the 1950s and 60s had folded links, meaning the metal was rolled and folded over itself to form each link, giving the bracelet a light and slightly “jangly” feel.
In the late 1970s, Rolex upgraded to solid links, giving the bracelet a more substantial and durable feel on the wrist. They also introduced a hidden Crownclasp, allowing the clasp to blend seamlessly with the design so that it looked like an unbroken band around the wrist/
The Jubilee did take a bit of a backseat in the Rolex sports watch lineup for a while. By the late 1980s, Rolex was favoring the sportier Oyster bracelet for models like the Submariner and GMT-Master.
The Jubilee, meanwhile, remained the hallmark of dress watches like the Datejust. But then, in 2018, Rolex did something unexpected and brought the Jubilee back to the GMT-Master II.
When the Pepsi GMT-Master II (ref. 126710BLRO) was introduced with a Jubilee bracelet many of us collectors were shocked, but in the best way.
Suddenly, the Jubilee was cool again, not just for dress watches, but for sports watches too. Rolex followed up with a Batman GMT (ref. 126710BLNR) on a Jubilee in 2019, confirming that the bracelet was now a legitimate option for their most iconic tool watches.
And that’s what makes the Jubilee bracelet so special — it effortlessly walks the line between formal and casual. On a Datejust, it’s pure elegance. On a GMT-Master, it’s a conversation starter. It’s also one of the most comfortable bracelets Rolex has ever produced.
The way the five-piece links conform to the wrist makes it feel like a piece of jewelry rather than a watch strap. And despite its delicate appearance, the Jubilee is built like a tank.
The Rolex President vs Jubilee: How to Choose
When it comes to Rolex, the bracelet isn’t just an afterthought, it’s an essential part of the watch’s identity. Rolex puts just as much engineering and craftsmanship into its bracelets as it does into its movements and cases.
And when we’re talking about high-end Rolex models, two bracelets arguably stand above the rest: the President and the Jubilee.
Both have a rich history, both are unmistakably Rolex, and both offer a level of comfort and luxury that other brands have tried and failed to replicate. But they also have their own personality, their own exclusive models, and their own appeal. So, how do you choose between the two?
The Design and Look
First things first — how do these two bracelets actually look on the wrist?
The President bracelet feels like a power move. It’s made up of three semi-circular, polished links that give it a very distinct and solid presence.
There’s a certain weightiness to the design too, both literally and figuratively. It’s bold, it’s eye-catching, and it’s dripping in luxury. The high-polish center links shine like jewelry, making the President bracelet the ultimate status symbol.
The Jubilee bracelet, on the other hand, is a bit more understated. It has a five-link construction, two brushed outer links and three smaller polished center links, that creates a beautifully intricate texture around the wrist.
Unlike the President, which feels powerful and solid, the Jubilee drapes like silk. It’s elegant, dressy, and has a delicate sparkle that catches the light in just the right way.
Which Watches Can You Get Them On?
You can’t just put a President bracelet on any old Rolex. It’s exclusive. And that’s part of its allure. It was designed specifically for the Rolex Day-Date when it launched in 1956 and to this day, it remains exclusive to the Day-Date collection and a few select Lady-Datejust models.
It also only comes in precious metals including solid 18k gold and platinum. There are no steel versions. It’s this exclusivity that makes the President feel a bit more elusive and exclusive.
The Jubilee bracelet, meanwhile, is far more versatile. It made its debut on the Datejust in 1945 but has since spread its wings. It now graces a variety of Rolex models, including the Datejust, GMT-Master II, and even certain Sky-Dweller references. You can also get it in stainless steel, two-tone (Rolesor), or solid gold, depending on the model.
Which Rolex Bracelet Is Right For You?
If you’ve got your heart set on a Rolex Day-Date, then your choice is made for you – it’s coming on a President bracelet. No exceptions. The Day-Date and the President bracelet are a package deal, and frankly, they couldn’t be a better match.
But if you’re looking at something like a Datejust, GMT-Master II, or Sky-Dweller, you’ve got a bit more freedom. These models often come with the option of a Jubilee bracelet, or in some cases, an Oyster bracelet, giving you a bit more room to choose what suits you best.
Another thing to keep in mind, and something many watch wearers don’t think about but should, is how they feel on the wrist. The President bracelet has some serious weight to it, especially if you’re going for solid gold or platinum.
It’s heavy, solid, and there’s absolutely no mistaking that you’ve got a Rolex on your wrist. The semi-circular three-link design hugs your wrist nicely, but it’s still got a noticeable presence. For a lot of people, that’s exactly what they want, a reassuring weight that screams luxury and success.
The Jubilee, on the other hand, is lighter and feels a little more like silk on your wrist. Thanks to its five-piece link construction, it has this fluid, almost liquid-like drape that is undeniably comfortable and dressy.
It’s also a lot less bulky which makes it perfect for all-day wear, especially if you’re the type who doesn’t love the feeling of a heavy watch weighing down your wrist. It’s subtle, it’s comfortable, and it’s got just enough sparkle to feel special without being too flashy.
So who’s the President bracelet really for? Well, if you’re someone who wants their watch to make a statement, this is it.
The President bracelet doesn’t do subtle. It’s bold, luxurious, and carries the weight of history. When you wear a Day-Date with a President bracelet, people notice. It’s deeply tied to power and prestige and it gives that “I’ve made it” energy/
The Jubilee bracelet has a very different vibe. It’s still luxurious, but in a quieter, more versatile way. It doesn’t shout for attention like the President does and instead has an effortless classiness about it.
The five-piece links give it a bit of flash, especially on two-tone models, but it still feels subtle enough to wear every single day. And that’s one of the biggest advantages of the Jubilee, it transitions seamlessly from casual to formal without missing a beat.
It’s also worth mentioning that if you’re eyeing a GMT-Master II with a Pepsi or Batman bezel, the Jubilee bracelet is a total game-changer. It adds this beautiful vintage-meets-modern aesthetic that feels completely different from the more utilitarian look of the Oyster bracelet.
Conclusion
Ultimately, choosing between the Rolex President and Jubilee bracelet comes down to the kind of presence you want your watch to have.
The President bracelet is bold, luxurious, and carries a weight, both physically and symbolically, that few other watch bracelets can match. It’s the choice for those who want their watch to feel like a statement piece, something that exudes power and status.
Meanwhile, the Rolex Jubilee offers a quieter, more versatile kind of luxury. It’s refined, effortlessly comfortable, and can move from casual to formal with ease. We’re pretty sure that no matter which Rolex bracelet you choose, you’re going to be very happy. It’s a Rolex at the end of the day, so there’s really no such thing as a wrong choice.
If you were to look at the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M side by side, you’d probably struggle to spot the differences right away. After all, both models share the same dimensions, that iconic jet-black dial, and the classic Rolex Submariner aesthetic we all know and love. At first glance, they’re virtually indistinguishable.
But, while the differences between these two models might not immediately jump out at you, they’re there, and they actually have a bigger impact on the overall feel and performance of the watch than you might expect.
The Rolex Submariner is the ultimate “grab-and-go” watch; it’s iconic, versatile, and built to withstand just about any occasion or environment.
It’s one of those watches that seamlessly transitions from the office to the beach, pairing just as well with a suit as it does with a wetsuit. But if you’re thinking about adding one of these legendary timepieces to your collection, you might want to dive a little deeper (pun intended).
What’s subtle at first glance could be a game-changer when it comes to how the watch performs, so if you’re wanting to know the difference between the Rolex 14060 and the 14060M, keep reading…
The Rolex Submariner 14060
If you’re even remotely familiar with the Rolex Submariner, then it’s likely you’ve already heard about the 14060 in passing. It’s considered a classic in the world of dive watches, and for good reason.
Released in 1988, it replaced the iconic Rolex Submariner 5513, a watch that had been a part of the brand’s history for decades.
While the 14060 certainly kept much of what made its predecessor so beloved, it also introduced a handful of important updates that made it more suited for modern use, all while still retaining its signature and timeless appeal.
One of the key upgrades in the Submariner 14060 was the introduction of a sapphire crystal. Unlike the acrylic crystals of earlier models, sapphire offers greater scratch resistance and durability, making it an obvious choice for a tool watch like the Submariner which is explicitly designed for adventure.
Additionally, the 14060 featured the Triplock crown, which enhanced its water resistance, bringing the depth rating up to an impressive 300 meters. These small but important changes made the Rolex Submariner 14060 an even more robust diving watch, ready for just about any adventure.
The movement inside the 14060 was the automatic Rolex Caliber 3000, known for its reliability and precision. With a power reserve of around 50 hours, it offered excellent performance, making the Submariner 14060 not only a great diving companion but also a dependable everyday watch – which let’s be honest is what it’s mostly used for.
It also retained the same 40mm stainless steel case size as previous models, a classic set of Submariner proportions that fit comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes.
The dial of the Rolex 14060 comes in the iconic glossy black and originally featured applied tritium hour markers and hands, giving the watch that unmistakable vintage feel.
Early models included the “SWISS-T<25” text on the dial, signifying the use of tritium for luminescence, which was eventually phased out in the late ’90s in favor of the more modern “SWISS” marking as the industry shifted toward the use of Super-LumiNova.
This design element, while subtle, contributed to the watch’s overall aesthetic, which was clean, functional, and practical.
In fact, the 14060 is often praised for its simplicity since there’s no date window and no extra complications. There’s three hands and a rugged, no-nonsense look that allows the wearer to focus on the essentials.
Another defining feature of the 14060 is its 40mm case, crafted from Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel. Known for its resistance to corrosion and its ability to take on a beautiful finish, this material is a hallmark of Rolex craftsmanship.
The watch also boasted drilled lugs, which made strap changes quick and easy, a small touch that many enthusiasts particularly appreciate, even if it’s less common in more recent models.
The bracelet on the 14060 was the classic 93150 Oyster, equipped with a folding clasp. While this design is often considered a bit less refined than the modern bracelets, it retains a certain charm and comfort that many collectors still admire.
It’s an example of how the 14060 strikes the perfect balance between being a true tool watch and having a certain understated elegance. The stamped end links and the slightly bulkier clasp might not compare to today’s solid-link, glidelock systems, but they are part of the character and authenticity of the watch.
Finally, for lovers of collectible Rolex models, the Submariner 4060 is known for being the last “non-chronometer” Submariner before the brand began certifying all of its models for accuracy.
Some argue that this adds a layer of charm and purity to the 14060, as it lacks the excess text and certification labels seen on newer models. The two-line dial, noted with just “Rolex” and “Submariner”, gives it a clean, uncluttered look that many collectors find especially appealing.
The Rolex Submariner 14060M
Released in 1999, the Rolex Submariner 14060M was the “modified” version (hence the ‘M’ at the end of its reference number) of the beloved 14060.
With the addition of the new letter, it brought with it a few key updates that made this watch even more reliable and refined, while still keeping that classic Submariner appeal.
The change was the movement. The 14060M was now powered by the Rolex Caliber 3130, a significant step up from the Caliber 3000 found in the earlier 14060. This movement featured a larger balance wheel and a full balance bridge, improving stability and overall performance.
It’s a movement that had been tested in other models, so it wasn’t a big leap, but it was a much-needed refinement that made the 14060M even more dependable.
This also meant there was a small but noticeable change on the dial. In 2007, when Rolex officially submitted the 14060M for chronometer certification, the watch earned a new set of four-line text on the dial, proudly displaying the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” marking.
While this was a great advancement in terms of performance, there are still plenty of collectors who prefer the clean, two-line dials of the earlier 14060M models.
But while the Rolex Submariner 14060M was updated in certain areas, it still retained many of the core elements that made its predecessor, the 14060, a beloved classic. It kept the same 40mm stainless steel case, the familiar lug holes, and the no-frills Submariner look.
The dial was also the same, with a classic glossy black finish, applied hour markers and the signature clean, no-date display. The Rolex 14060M also kept the classic “hole case” design, making strap changes a breeze, and featured the 93150 Oyster bracelet with folding clasp, just like its predecessor.
So yes, while the Rolex Submariner 14060M might have had some tweaks, its essence and the qualities that have made the Submariner a legend are very much intact. It’s a watch that will continue to look great and perform flawlessly for years, keeping its place as a true classic in Rolex’s storied history.
Rolex Submariner 14060 vs 14060M – How to Choose
When comparing the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M, it’s easy to see that both models share the same iconic look.
They both boast the classic 40mm stainless steel case, the sleek black dial with applied hour markers, and the no-date display that has become synonymous with the Submariner’s utilitarian design. They also offer the same depth rating of 300 meters, ensuring their performance in underwater conditions.
However, the 14060M, released a decade after the 14060, does come with some key differences that could influence your decision depending on what you’re looking for in a timepiece.
The most significant change is the movement. The 14060M is equipped with the Caliber 3130, a movement that offers improved performance and stability compared to the Caliber 3000 found in the 14060.
The Caliber 3130 boasts a larger balance wheel, a full balance bridge, and the Breguet overcoil, enhancing the watch’s precision and durability. This updated movement makes the 14060M feel a bit more refined and capable, adding an extra layer of reliability and robustness.
Additionally, models released from 2007 onward are chronometer-certified, which means they’ve passed rigorous testing set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
This certification ensures that the movement meets a specific standard of accuracy within a range of -4 to +6 seconds per day making the Rolex 14060M not only more reliable but also officially recognized as a high-performance timepiece.
This added layer of quality assurance makes the 14060M a highly desirable model for watch enthusiasts who appreciate certifications of accuracy like this.
With the chronometer-certified movement also comes the extra text on the dial. The 14060 features just two lines of text, giving it a cleaner, more vintage-inspired look. This minimalistic design is perfect for those who love the old-school charm of the Submariner.
On the other hand, the 14060M, after its 2007 upgrade, carries a four-line dial with the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” label, indicating its chronometer certification. This adds a bit more text to the dial, which some collectors might appreciate for the added performance, while others might find it clutters an otherwise clean display.
If you’re someone who appreciates a classic, vintage-inspired design but still wants the benefits of modern watchmaking, the 14060 is a fantastic option.
With its no-date simplicity, timeless look, and features like the sapphire crystal and 300m water resistance, it offers the Submariner’s iconic style without unnecessary complication and added text on the dial. It’s the perfect model for those who want a nod to the past, with just enough modern touches to make it a reliable everyday companion.
However, if you’re more focused on precision and performance, or if you simply appreciate the extra stability and robustness of a modern movement, the Rolex Submariner 14060M will be the better fit for you.
The updated Caliber 3130 movement not only offers enhanced accuracy but also brings added durability with features like the full balance bridge and the Breguet overcoil. Plus, the chronometer certification of the 14060M ensures that you’re getting a timepiece with a high level of precision.
Conclusion
At the end of the day, both the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M are incredible watches, each bringing something special to the table.
If you’re someone who loves the idea of a vintage, no-frills dive watch, the 14060 will be your perfect fit. It’s got that classic, minimalist design with just enough modern upgrades to make it a reliable daily companion.
The Caliber 3000 movement may be a bit older, but it’s still rock solid, and the overall vibe of the Sub 14060 is timeless.
But, if you’re more about precision, performance, and the added peace of mind that comes with chronometer certification, the Rolex Sub 14060M will be more your style.
With the updated Caliber 3130 movement, it brings enhanced accuracy and durability, plus that extra layer of precision that comes with being chronometer certified. Sure, you’ll get a bit more text on the dial, but for those who appreciate the finer details, it’s definitely worth it.
There are other watches out there that might be more visually striking and more notably more affordable, but when it comes to a “grab-and-go” timepiece that can handle whatever life throws at it while still looking sharp and performing flawlessly, it’s hard to beat the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M. Both are fantastic watches in their own right, and honestly, you can’t go wrong with either one.
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