An authentic Rolex watch is one of the most sought-after pieces on the market. Rolex has become more than just a simple watch brand, appealing across the world as a testament to fashion, blending themes of pristine elegance to give their fans something truly unique.
The grand appeal of Rolex all over the world has inevitably created a vast market of counterfeit watches that seek to cheaply emulate that iconic style everyone is so familiar with. These replicas are very deceiving, fooling even the most seasoned collectors, so how do you tell a real from a fake?
There are various features to look out for that indicate a real Rolex watch, including the authenticity of the gold. Today, we will explore the steps you can take to ensure that the gold Rolex you have coveted for so long is true to its name, eliminating any suspicion that it could be a fake piece hiding under a very convincing case.
The Telltale Signs of a Fake Gold Rolex
At first glance, fakes fool everyone. A good fake is almost impossible to sniff out just by looking from afar, but upon picking up the watch and taking a closer look, the weight can betray a fake almost immediately. The weight of a watch is a representation of its materials.
In other words, the higher the quality of the materials, the heavier it’s going to be. When fake gold is used, the watch is very light, and if you were to hold the two in either hand, it’s very obvious which one is real.
The absence of weight is almost always the first clue that multiple corners have been cut. Authentic gold feels like authentic gold. Understand that Rolex only uses 18k gold for their watches. From the get-go, if a seller is claiming that the watch is made of 14k or 10k, that’s a certain fake.
Rolex also does not use any other metallic alloys in any of their gold watches, meaning that if a watch is marked as “gold plated” or “gold-filled,” it is a counterfeit.
Look at the dial as well. Rolex dials are often made of enamel or mother-of-pearl, dubbing them some of the highest-quality dials on the market.
Obviously, counterfeiters will not have access to pristine materials like these, so they will turn to cheaper dial materials or cut corners on the finishing.
Fake dials have far less amounts of polishing on their surface, so look closely for any signs of unevenness and make sure that the polishing is thorough all the way around.
On a genuine gold watch, the crown should be made of 18k gold as well, engraved with the Rolex logo. Sometimes, counterfeiters have skipped the crown altogether, making for a pretty straightforward telltale sign that you’re being sold a fake.
Also, be sure to examine the watch’s documentation carefully. Genuine Rolex’s come with certificates of authenticity, a warranty card, and an instruction manual. If any of these are missing or counterfeit, the watch is fake.
The movement hints at authenticity. Though it is significantly more difficult to tell, the speed and precision on which the watch is operating is a clear indicator of how real or fake the watch is.
Rolex’s are known for their flawless precision, so look out for an erratically running watch or a watch that reads the wrong time altogether.
These are a few of the clear features that I encourage you to look out for when looking for a gold Rolex—or any Rolex, for that matter. A very well-made fake will be tremendously hard to spot, but you want to be sure you are doing the most you can to prevent yourself from being scammed.
Are Fake Gold Rolex Watches Worth It?
But as much as I have encouraged you to avoid fakes, there is genuine debate among the watch community about whether or not fakes are worth it. This leads us to question if it is worth investing in a fake or if they are truly scams through and through. Let’s dive in a little deeper.
In some cases, if the fake watch is made of higher-quality materials that closely resemble the real version, it can be worth it. A good counterfeiter will typically put in extra effort to make their fake resemble the authenticity of a Rolex as closely as possible.
Not all fakes are street scam watches that will break within an hour of wearing them. Some are very exceptionally made and can serve as a cheap alternative if you are simply going for the Rolex-like aesthetic.
There is a fine line between a scam watch and a counterfeit watch, so be very careful and make sure that if you were to buy a fake, the counterfeiter knows what they are doing. Don’t let your excitement blind you, and do your own research before deciding if a fake is worth it or not.
How to Avoid Getting a Fake.
The only advice that I can give is to be observant and do your own research. Establish what kind of watch you want, and if at all possible, go to a Rolex store or order your piece from the Rolex website.
Third-party retailers (like Exquisite Timepieces) offer them as well, but far more research will be needed if you are going to go that route to make sure the watch you are getting is legitimate. Get hand-held experience as well.
If you are presented with the opportunity to feel the watch before you buy it, I can’t recommend that you take it enough. The weight of the watch is the number one telltale sign, and upon lifting it, you can usually always determine the piece’s legitimacy.
Conclusion
So now you know. Look for the signs, pay attention, and be wary of scams. Real gold Rolex’s are some of the most majestic pieces the watch world has ever seen, and if you are eager to experiment in the world of luxury watches, then a lot of personal responsibility is associated with this new-found journey.
Fakes are convincing, and in some cases, fakes can be a great alternative, but there is only one true Rolex whose legacy cannot be cheaply emulated.
I wish you the best of luck with your journey, and I hope that you take special care to learn the ins and outs of authentic pieces because it is truly a blessing to discover how these watch engineers continue to defy the meta and innovate the industry. That’s something that cannot be recreated.
Ahh—yes, Rolex. One of the most storied brands in the world, recognizable even to people who have never put a wristwatch on, nevermind a luxury timepiece. Rolex is arguably the most celebrated watch brand in the world, with its green backdrop, iconic crown, and gold embossed lettering.
And, admittedly, no Rolex is as famed as the Submariner, worn by Sean Connery during his Bond tenure. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides.
And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake.
And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolex Submariners than I’d care to admit.
But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus.
So, before you take the plunge on a Rolex Submariner, let’s make sure you’re not treading in counterfeit waters.
The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex Submariner
Watch Price
Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which can be challenging even on a good day? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP—period.
So, if someone is offering you a Submariner for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?
Watch Weight
A reliable way to spot a fake Submariner is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits.
This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, with the Submariner offered in 904L stainless steel, 18k white and yellow gold, or two yellow Rolesor (two-tone Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold).
Older Rolex Submariners might feature 316L stainless steel before Rolex transitioned to 904L in the late 1980s, as well as 14k gold for certain U.S. market models before the brand standardized 18k gold.
On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing.
Movement
One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex Submariner is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake.
New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day.
If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine.
However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. In the case of a “super clone,” an AD can help you with the verification process.
Caseback
Rolex Submariner casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of a polished outer circle with a brushed center; the caseback is devoid of engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Genuine Rolex watches have serial and model numbers engraved on the case between the lugs, not the caseback.
If you find such markings on the back of the case, it’s a red flag. A real Rolex caseback is made of high-quality stainless steel with a very precise, smooth finish. Fake casebacks might feel or look a bit off in terms of construction quality or the material used.
Cyclops
The Submariner reference 126610LN comes with a date and cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal.
The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant.
Many fake Rolex Submariners have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner.
When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all, really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.
Crown Markings
Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns, and the design and execution of them. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward.
A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jeweler’s loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown.
Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with the case material. Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner.
Serial Numbers
Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. On pre-2007 Submariners, the serial number is typically found between the lugs at the 12 o’clock position instead, which is an important distinction for vintage Submariners.
The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving!
Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches.
Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.
Dial Details
Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing.
Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye.
And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!
Hands
The Rolex Submariner features Mercedes hands, which is one of the defining design elements of the watch.
The term “Mercedes hands” refers to the distinctive shape of the hour hand, which has a characteristic pointed triangle at the end, resembling the Mercedes-Benz logo. When checking the authenticity of a Submariner, the hands can reveal a lot.
First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious.
Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off.
The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel (depending on the model). If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.
If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake.
I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch.
Crystal Etching
Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal of a modern Submariner.
This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately.
If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake. One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface.
This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such, even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.
Water Resistance
Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory.
While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.
Bezel (both inner and outer)
The bezel on a Rolex Submariner, both inner and outer, is a great indicator of authenticity. The outer bezel, on modern models is made of ceramic and boasts perfectly sharp, crisp markings that won’t fade or scratch easily.
On older models, you’ll find an aluminum bezel, which may show some wear or fading over time—something to keep in mind when buying vintage. The inner bezel, or rehaut, is where Rolex places its signature engraving, always sharp and precise.
Counterfeiters often fail to replicate this detail, either with poorly executed markings or a lack of distinctive engraving entirely. The bezel’s rotation should feel smooth and effortless, with no play or resistance, a feature that’s difficult to fake.
Are Fake Rolex Submariner Watches Worth It?
No!
I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit Submariner. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success, and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so.
There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake.
With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex, but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market.
Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.
How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex Submariner
Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex Submariner—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Submariner, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex.
This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock draw, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex.
Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!
Conclusion
If you want to own a Rolex Submariner, and you took the time to read this article, it’s likely that you are doing your homework and care about owning an authentic piece of Rolex history—so kudos to you!
Watch collecting is truly a joyful journey, and the research and literature leading up to your purchase is always enjoyable, or at least it is for me! Please don’t hesitate to reach out to our experts here at Exquisite Timepieces, especially if you are on the market for a pre-owned Rolex Submariner. We will always point you in the right direction!
Compare a watch that vibrates on your wrist to let you know you’ve met your steps goal for the day and your work meeting is about to commence in five minutes with a traditional analog watch that operates via a series of gear trains and wheels to keep accuracy and tell me they don’t both serve very different purposes in the modern world. A smartwatch like Apple and a traditional wristwatch like Rolex are worlds apart. Or are they?
As crazy as it may sound, there is an argument for a smartwatch and an argument for a mechanical timepiece. Although there will always be an element of Swiss snobbery when this debate crops up in conversation, there is no denying that smartwatches are the reluctant revolution none of us thought we needed.
In actual fact, Apple has forced many Swiss watch manufacturers down the digital route, and for some, it has really paid off. Lots of traditional watch companies have some sort of smartwatch offering. It makes sense when you think about society’s growing focus on fitness and health tracking.
Even though the technological feat of the smartwatch far outweighs the traditional watch on a functional level, there are still many reasons why your collection may call for a Rolex watch and an Apple watch at some point in your life. Indeed, smartwatches and traditional watches can co-exist in a collection, and there are no hard and fast rules to suggest you can only be pro and not the other.
But how do they compare when you put them side-by-side? Here’s a delve into the Apple vs Rolex debate and a comparison guide to their features and designs.
The Birth of the Crown
Rolex produces over 1 million watches per year. It remains the most recognizable brand in the entire world thanks to a fascinating heritage deeply rooted in independent manufacture and excellent craftsmanship, with a proven track record in iconic designs.
Founded in 1905, Rolex launched the Oyster case in 1926, forming the backbone for all other Rolex watches to follow. The hermetically sealed case was worn around the neck of famous Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitze performing admirably underwater.
Rolex is recognized for models like the Datejust, which landed in the 1940s, followed by the GMT-Master, the Day-Date, and the Milgauss. However, two of the brand’s most iconic designs were the Submariner and the Datejust.
Both models are respected for their robust case constructions, legible dials, and unmistakable design. Today, Rolex continues to build on its most well-loved collections, upholding standards in quality and authenticity that remain unmatched across the industry.
The Advent of the Smartwatch
The Apple Watch first arrived in 2015, setting the foundations of the modern smartwatch as we know it now with the Series 0. The brand set the bar for a slim, compact, and practical device compared to the bulky devices already circulating the market.
Being the first of its kind, its slow performance certainly needed some attention, and by the time the Series 1 and 2 were launched, a dual processor had been developed to increase its speed by 50%. Reasonably priced at just under $300, it also introduced GMT functionality and a “Breathe” app,.
The Series 3, which followed, featured cellular connectivity, enabling the wearer to make and take calls using the watch alone.
The Series 4 brought more size options with it, as well as a chip for Bluetooth connectivity, while the Series 5, 6, and 7 introduced a new touchscreen, more colors, and faster charging capability, respectively. Apple currently holds the leading position in the smartwatch market, selling around 37 million units in 2023.
Rolex vs Apple Functionality
The Apple Watch has a lot more capabilities than a Rolex watch, that much can be agreed on. However, what appeals to you as a wearer all boils down to personal preference. If you’re the kind of person whowho likes a lot of exercise, Apple’s heart rate function and workout features will bring efficiency and intuition to your daily runs, hikes, or biking routes.
Apple experts design the many health and fitness tracking features to provide an all-encompassing, quick-accessing experience by which all elements complement one another in one single wrist-sized package.
More akin to a phone than a watch, the battery of an Apple Watch will need recharging, which can take some getting used to if you’re an automatic watch lover and never usually need to make a conscious effort to keep your timepiece ticking over.
This is where one of the Apple watch’s disadvantages becomes apparent. If your mechanical watch runs down at any point, there is the opportunity to wind that watch immediately and get it back on track. The Apple watch will, of course, take time to electronically charge back up before you can resume enjoying its features.
Nighttime functionality in the Apple watch is far superior to any Rolex watch. Apple watches benefit from a bright OLED screen, making time instantly clear and easy to reference.
However, Rolex uses luminescent material on all the essential dial features for nighttime legibility. As with all Super-LumiNova-type material, this will fade as the hours pass and is nowhere near as bright as the OLED screen of an Apple watch.
One advantage of the Apple watch over the Rolex watch is that it costs a lot less. Does a cheaper watch give you some subconscious flexibility to be less cautious and expose it to more environments? Possibly.
Rolex watches are undoubtedly some of the toughest in the world, but when you know that damaging one will likely cost the same amount as replacing an entire Apple watch, maybe you can get more out of the Apple Watch on a daily basis.
Apple Design vs Rolex Design
Being a smartwatch, the Apple watch has a suite of features, including a heart rate monitor, calorie counter, sleep tracker, and blood oxygen tracker. More specifically, using the watch’s ECG app, you can check for signs of atrial fibrillation with the Apple watch’s heart tracker feature and measure electrical signals across your heart.
You can also create sleep schedules, review your sleep history, and track sleep apnoea on the Apple watch, as well as display an overnight view of your health metrics on demand.
Tracking social media updates and receiving messages is also super easy with an Apple watch. You can also use voice dictation or the Scribble feature to write messages while you’re on the go, as well as stay on track of activity reminders and appointments without needing a physical planner.
It’s also worth noting that there’s a whole host of third-party apps to explore, as well as those built into the Apple Watch, and you can tailor all of these apps according to how much you want to utilize your smartwatch daily.
No surprise that the functions of a Rolex watch are entirely different to those of an Apple watch. Depending on the model you own or the one you’re thinking of investing in, Rolex watches keep track of time with a traditional analog dial comprising a central hour, minute, and seconds hand and will sometimes feature a date window.
Models like the Rolex GMT-Master II will track up to three time zones at once using a 24-hour bezel and GMT hand. Other features include a chronograph complication, which you’ll most likely have seen in models like the iconic motorsport-inspired Daytona watch, and a unidirectional rotating bezel for measuring elapsed time underwater when wearing the Sea-Dweller or Submariner.
While the Apple Watch provides an array of digital statistics and health metrics on demand, the allure of a Rolex watch is deeply rooted in the brand’s heritage and its many patented designs aimed at improving and preserving the beauty of the age-old mechanical watch.
Rolex watches feature Chromalight dial appliques – the brand’s own luminous material, a helium escape valve for saturation diving, and an Oyster case with a Triplock winding crown that upholds water resistance within a specially manufactured case.
COSC-certified movements and in-house manufactured bracelets like the Oysterflex bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet are other key design features of a Rolex watch.
Build Quality & Materials Compared
Rather than the classic unboxing of a traditional watch that you can slide straight out of the packaging and onto the wrist, the Apple Watch comes as a deconstructed piece of kit that you assemble as you go, comprising the case, the strap, and the charging components.
Size-wise, there is no drastic difference between the Apple and a 40mm Rolex watch. Clearly, the differences lie in the shape of the cases and their materials.
The Apple is a smooth, softly rounded rectangular shape and can be manufactured from steel, titanium, aluminum, or ceramic. Rolex watches are a traditional round shape, and many of the brand’s sports watches are manufactured from steel.
That said, Rolex has its own research and development department and manufactures its own gold. Often, you will see a Rolex watch listed as Oystersteel, Everose, or 950 Platinum, reflecting the brand’s ability to create completely unique designs without the limitations of a controlled manufacturing process.
Movements
Obviously, we can’t compare the complex mechanical movement of a Rolex watch and the Apple watch’s lithium battery.
The two watches work in completely different ways, and rather than being down to personal choice, there is no real choice to make when considering either option. If you’re basing your purchase on your love of mechanical movements, a Rolex watch is your only choice.
Both an Apple watch and a Rolex watch are pieces of equipment, and despite the latter becoming a symbol of status, wealth, and success – it wasn’t initially intended for this. Models like the Sub were built to serve a purpose.
You could smash it up against a rock while swimming through choppy seas without worrying about it holding up. The same can still be said for Rolex watches today. They’re also incredibly versatile, and you can wear one with a suit or attend a family gathering wearing one without it looking too flashy. At the same time, rock up to a corporate event in one, and it instantly conveys success and good taste.
While Apple watches do look smart and sleek on the wrist and can be worn with a suit, they don’t conduct themselves in quite the same way. Apple watches are worn less as a remarkable statement piece and more as a handy, wrist-worn device. Even Apple experts made the case design as discreet and as sleek as possible.
These watches certainly appeal to the fast-paced generation of gym-going, meeting-attending men and women of today’s society, who barely have the time to take their phones out of their pockets. Contrastingly, the Rolex watch is chosen by someone who wants to take time out of the day to focus on the now and appreciate the simpler, more luxurious things in life.
Price Point
There is no denying the fact that something like the Rolex Datejust costs ten times the amount an Apple Series 5 watch costs. The entry-level of the Apple watch is an aluminum case, which you can choose in many different finishes.
These watches have an excellent level of customization, including the watch face itself. A decent Apple watch like the Series 5 costs around the $400 mark. Compared to any Rolex, it’s considerably cheap, given that the average cost of an entry-level Rolex is around $4-6000.
But if you want the next level up on the Apple watch, a stainless steel will cost you around $700. For a ceramic model, you’ll be looking at around $1,200 to $1,300. All of a sudden, the affordable Apple watch is now creeping into Rolex price territory.
There’s another downside too. Apple likes to release a new watch annually, causing the previous model to become quickly outdated, just like a mobile phone. When you consider that the Apple watch is designed to be worn for a year before it’s replaced, versus the Rolex Datejust, which has stood the test of time – one has to consider whether an Apple watch is worth the money.
Final Thoughts
If you’re still undecided on whether to opt for a Rolex or an Apple watch or add whichever one you’re missing to your collection, let me just say one thing. You may need a watch that will assess your sleep, optimize your prime active windows in the day, and advise you when to rest.
It may also be incredibly convenient to track how many steps you have walked or calories you have burnt. A wrist-worn computer makes even the ability to take and make calls or send messages easier. But it will never make you want to give up your favorite timepiece. A traditional watch connects in a more meaningful way.
Those favoring a traditional watch want the masculinity that a hefty piece of metal brings to the wrist. A smartwatch is not masculine. It’s a digital tool – an extension to your mobile phone if you will.
At the end of the day, a smartwatch like the Apple extends the functionality of your phone and, in a way, can make separating yourself from your phone an even harder task than before.
So, if you want to become more focused on the now and less engrossed in the time-consuming side of digital interaction and social media – a traditional watch is the escape route you’ll want to hold onto.
Smartwatches will not have Rolex lovers ditching their Daytonas and Datejusts in droves. Moreover, a Rolex fan may consider adding an Apple watch to their life if they’re looking for a digital device to aid them with their fitness goals.
(An Apple wearer by day and a Rolex devotee by night, maybe?) Likewise, those who’ve had their fill of smartwatch technology and want to come away from it may want to strip things back with an investment piece from Rolex as a lifestyle upgrade.
If you want my personal opinion? I can’t help but think that smartwatches won’t be around forever. They are undeniably beneficial and relative to the lives we lead today.
But the Apple watch’s ability to snap you out of the here and now and continually suck you back into a screen is not for everyone.
It appears that Apple is more than aware of this, too. The focus on the breathing app, the SOS call feature, and the apps that remind you to get up and keep active all put the emphasis on the consumer needing a wearable health assistant to improve their lifestyle. Is it possible to exercise, eat a balanced diet, and enjoy time spent in the now without an Apple watch? Absolutely.
Vacheron Constantin and Rolex are watchmaking giants that have celebrated several horological feats over the years, but which brand is best?
In this piece, both brands go head-to-head in a comparison guide, determining what features and historical milestones make them unique and worth the investment. Which will you choose? Let’s begin with a look at the history of both brands.
Brand Heritage
Part of the appeal of owning a watch from either of these brands, Vacheron Constantin or Rolex, is their rich history in watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin is by far the oldest, beginning in 1755 when Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin partnered up and started strategically working on ways to spearhead the standardization of movement parts.
The first pocket chronometer was released in 1872, winning the Geneva Observatory’s chronometry competition, followed by the opening of its first boutique in 1906. Vacheron Constantin watches were the first to bear the Hallmark of Geneva as a sign of excellence. The brand created the world’s thinnest manually wound watch in 1955.
The 2000s earmarked a period of modern watch design for Vacheron Constantin, with models like the Patrimony and sporty Overseas released under the Richemont Group.
Of all its greatest milestones, however, its development of some of the world’s most complicated watches must be among Vacheron Constantin’s most impressive achievements.
The Les Cabinotiers Berkeley Grand Complication pocket watch boasts 63 complications and was released last year, 9 years after the reference 57260 made history, complete with 57 complications.
Rolex’s history is equally fascinating, but for different reasons. The crown brand is recognized as an innovator of several iconic timepieces, including the Daytona, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master II, among many others.
The brand dates back to 1905 and was founded by a guy named Hans Wilsdorf – yes – that Hans Wilsdorf – the one also responsible for founding the sibling brand, TUDOR.
From the beginning, this brand produced superlative timekeepers and was awarded such certification as early as 1910. From the get-go, Hans Wilsdorf wanted these watches to accompany their wearers throughout their entire life, and in 1926, the Oyster case was developed.
The game-changing model formed the backbone of nearly every other Rolex watch to follow and was marketed as the world’s first waterproof watch, thanks to a hermetically sealed construction.
It comprised a bezel and caseback secured to a middle case, proving its superior water-resistant capabilities in 1927 when it was worn around the neck of female British Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitz.
In 1931, the Oyster Perpetual watch arrived, followed by the Datejust model and, in 1953, the Submariner. The 1970s underpinned Rolex’s successful streak in creating water-resistant watches with the Deep-Sea watch.
In comparison, the iconic Cosmograph Daytona hit the shelves in the 1970s as the world-famous motorsport watch to own. Since then, models like the Yacht-Master II, the Datejust II, and the Sky Dweller have joined the party, underpinning Rolex’s innate ability to produce some of the world’s most iconic designs of all time.
Model Variety and Design
As you’ll have gathered by now, both Vacheron Constantin and Rolex can claim some pretty impressive firsts. Rolex produced the first wristwatch that could change the day and date on the dial, as well as the first dual time zone watch and the first model to display both the day and date on the same dial.
As well as becoming the first brand to create a waterproof watch and receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometer Precision, it also became the first brand to master the command bezel.
While the Oyster Perpetual is the watch that carries all the Rolex hallmarks, the Datejust is the go-to design for those who value sophistication and functionality. Their bezels vary from smooth to fluted to gem-set and are elevated on a functional level by their instantaneous date window at 3H.
The Rolex Sub, on the other hand, is probably the world’s most famous dive watch. Special designs like the Kermit rack up extortionate price tags on the pre-owned market, while the classic black date and no-date models are as popular now as they were during the 1960s.
Of course, if you know anything about Rolex, you’ll have heard of the Daytona – the 1960s motorsport watch that soared in price after it was spotted on the wrist of Paul Newman. Although not a bestseller at the time, the first-generation Daytona watches featured a distinctive Art Deco style and are now some of the world’s most sought-after watches.
The second-generation Daytona watches are defined by their El Primero movements, before Rolex began equipping them with its Cerachrom bezel inserts. Other famous designs include the Day-Date, fitted with the famous President bracelet, and the GMT-Master II, featuring the iconic and well-deserved red and blue “Pepsi” bezel.
Vacheron Constantin is known for its rare pieces, but some of its most popular collections are also worth noting since each range offers the collector a different style to choose from. The brand keeps its selections small, its most popular line being the Overseas collection, which embodies the zeitgeist of the 1970s sports watch era with its own rendition of the angular bezel.
The unique rectangular indentations on said bezel echo the brand’s Maltese cross logo. Other popular collections include the Fifty Six dress watch, complete with a 22k gold peripheral rotor, and the more vintage-inspired Historiques collection, celebrating the mechanical watch renaissance of yesteryear. However, the most classic of all VC watches is the Patrimony – a no-frills dress watch for all occasions.
Build Quality and Materials
If you’re considering investing in a Vacheron Constantin watch, you must, at some point, have questioned what makes this brand so synonymous with horological excellence. What is this brand doing that earns it the position amongst the top three manufacturers in the world?
Sitting alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, there is no argument that Vacheron Constantin has one of the most intriguing histories thanks to being one of the oldest watchmakers in the industry. This uninterrupted heritage comes to life in the hallowed grounds of the brand’s manufacturing facilities, where an affection for the highest horological practices is nurtured.
Apart from the case and bracelet of a VC watch, everything was once made in-house. These time-honored practices extended into some of the most challenging components to produce, like the intricate hairsprings of a movement and pallet forks.
The Geneva striped finishing and perlage you see on a beautifully decorated movement were all once applied by hand, communicating the patience and devotion of every part of a Vacheron Constantin watch.
Vacheron Constantin also has its own Metiers d’Art department, where just a handful of artisans carry out advanced decorative practices on the dials of some of the brand’s designs. Some of these practices carried out in this department include gem-setting, guilloche work, and intricate dial engraving.
Those fully skilled in mastering the trades carried out here can operate rose engines that create meticulous finishes across the watch’s dial using an ancient practice. The engravers at Vacheron Constantin are no less impressive.
They can spend up to three months on one single watch case. Nor are the enamellers to be overlooked, who work on miniature copies of works of art, faithfully reinterpreting them onto a dial’s surface. The brand also uses a selection of exquisite materials that reflect the high price tag of a VC watch.
While exploring what this brand offers, you’ll see many examples of the materials used in its manufacture. The company uses conventional stainless steel for its sportier models and 18k gold in its dress watch and high-complication models, combined with sapphire crystal glass for everyday wear. The brand also uses diamonds for some of its more refined models, not to mention precious gemstones, and crafts some designs from titanium – a material chosen for its lightweight properties.
On the other hand, Rolex has well and truly put itself on the map for its range of proprietary materials. In fact, it is this know-how in the field of material manufacture that makes the brand such a well-respected one in the industry. The designation “in-house” goes a long way in watchmaking and carries a lot of weight, allowing brands like Rolex more control over their design and production processes. While many watch buffs may be able to tell you where Rolex watches are made, some may not know the alloys the brand uses for its ridiculously tough and long-lasting cases.
Rolex has its own research and development department dedicated to crafting new materials, and it is here where its proprietary 18k gold is crafted.
For example, the brand’s rose gold alloy is called Everose and is renowned for its resistance to saltwater and chlorine. The brand’s special blend of 904 stainless steel named Oystersteel also sets this brand’s designs apart, being more corrosion-resistant and harder than 316L stainless steel.
Aside from these case materials, Rolex also specializes in crafting components for the rest of the watch. Its specially formulated luminous paint is named Chromalight, which launched in 2008 and boasts a slightly longer glow with its striking blue emissions.
Rolex also produces its own durable ceramic compound, Cerachrom, which takes roughly 40 hours to create and, from a longevity standpoint, is superior to many alternative bezel materials.
Many in-house movements made by esteemed manufacturers house components crafted from materials resistant to magnetic fields, including the Crown brand. Rolex took five years to perfect the parachrom hairspring, another proprietary and patented element for superior efficiency in a watch.
Suffice to say, while both manufacturers offer a blend of functional and quality materials, Rolex trumps Vacheron Constantin on material innovation, with a range of in-house creations under its belt.
Movements
Both Rolex and Vacheron Constantin produce their own in-house movements, which is a feat in and of itself.
Many connoisseurs find an independently manufactured movement appealing because it guarantees an element of freedom in the design process and an opportunity to enjoy a range of proprietary components that often promise a better, more efficient, and improved mechanical performance.
Rolex began producing self-winding models in 1931. Before then, the brand exclusively manufactured manual-winding engines.
As with so many Swiss companies, however, the brand fell victim to the crushing effects of the quartz crisis and, as a result, sought to collaborate with leaders in quartz technology to produce its own Beta 21 quartz movement. Following this, the brand went on to make its own Oysterquartz movements, adapting to the climate and continuing to thrive.
Having returned to mechanical movement manufacture, Rolex’s catalog brims with some of the most reliable, accurate, and durable movements you can own. It hasn’t changed how it makes mechanical movements since the release of the caliber 3135 three decades ago.
The brand’s movements may not be the most aesthetically pleasing or elaborately decorated. Still, since Rolex is one of the few manufacturers in the world that makes almost all of its own components, its movements consistently show their worth over time, maintaining popularity and contributing to the brand’s resale value on the second-hand market.
On the other hand, when you see the Maltese cross on a dial, you know it has to be a Vacheron Constantin watch and, therefore, powered by an impeccable movement. VC chose this logo as it represented the shape of the component that fixed to the barrel of its movements, so this symbol is about much more than a brand name itself.
But being the long-in-the-tooth brand that it is, one would think that a Vacheron Constantin watch would be powered by a heritage movement that reflects the traditions and techniques of the long-upheld practices of its manufacturing house.
However, this is the modern world, and for quite some years, the brand has been equipping its watches with movements developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Don’t let this fact alone put you off, though.
JLC has been producing movements for some of the world’s most famous and respectable brands for many years, including Audemars Piguet and Patek – the other two slices of the “Big Three” pie.
The fact that JLC is one of the industry’s top movement manufacturers makes VC no less amazing or luxurious as a brand. But if in-house movement is your bag, Rolex takes this title.
Prices
Vacheron Constantin produces around 20,000 timepieces a year, while Rolex produces around 1 million yearly. While these numbers are incomparable in scale, Vacheron Constantin watches offer that all-important exclusivity factor due to being made in limited production batches.
However, part of the desirability of Rolex watches can be equated to their long waiting lists, which drive prices high on the pre-owned market. Since Rolex watches are seen as as more of a statement than a functional tool, they carry colossal wrist presence and can be picked out from across a room.
Both brands produce watches ranging from a few thousand dollars to tens of thousands of dollars. Vacheron Constantin watches do hold their value better than most other brands on the market.
Still, for the purposes of comparing this brand with Rolex, it’s not the better of the two brands for resale value and value retention. Many Rolex watches can double in value on the second-hand market if they’re deemed scarce or have a particularly appealing design feature that collectors crave.
However, the price of a VC watch is reflected in the level of craftsmanship and the intricacy of its many hand-applied finishes and highly complex features.
As a general rule, the RRP of a Vacheron Constantin watch is higher than that of a Rolex. However, investment-wise, Rolex watches retain their value better and can make for even greater family heirlooms.
Conclusion
There is an admirable purity to what both Vacheron Constantin and Rolex do in the watchmaking world. Each brand is worthy of the respect it garners for very different reasons. While Vacheron Constantin is admired for its horological complexity and fine, time-honored practices, Rolex is the brand you would go to for a robust, iconic design that oozes style and status.
While Rolex is undoubtedly the most recognized watchmaker, those in the know are more than aware of the masterpieces that an old but lesser-known brand like Vacheron Constantin can produce. Collectors and fans of both respective brands are not first-time buyers.
But while a Rolex watch will appeal to someone who wants to show the world what they have achieved with a statement piece, a Vacheron Constantin collector is someone who enjoys a private type of luxury – a stealth wealth watch that, despite the materials and complexity behind its design, does not instantly smack of flashiness and ostentatiousness.
Settling the debate between Vacheron Constantin vs Rolex can only be done one way, by asking yourself what is important to you in a watch. In some ways, Vacheron Constantin can be considered the brand that makes better watches because of its high complications.
On the other hand, Rolex watches have better resale value and can make the best investments because of their ability to retain value and appreciate over time. VC isn’t as world famous as Rolex, but it does have over 150 years of extra experience in watch manufacturing compared to Rolex.
At the end of the day, you can’t go wrong with either of these watch brands. Both are respected and revered in the watchmaking world, and they have their own strengths and characteristics that stand for exceptional quality and craftsmanship.
Upon reading the title of this article, many of you probably thought, “Tissot vs Rolex? That’s like a mediocre Division 3 college football team taking on the Philadelphia Eagles”. Yes, the two brands do inhabit different levels of the horological hierarchy.
Nevertheless, it’s a worthwhile comparison. If you are a newbie watch collector who dreams of a Rolex, you’re not there yet. For an entry-level timepiece, Tissot is a brand well worth considering.
Both Tissot and Rolex are Swiss-made and have long and illustrious histories. Each has contributed to the art of watchmaking and, to this day, continues to craft stylish, accurate, and reliable watches. In fact, even after you get your first Rolex, you may well want a Tissot or two in your collection.
Brand Heritage
When it comes to heritage, both Tissot and Rolex are loaded with it. Both have more than a century of watchmaking behind them. Both are based in Switzerland, still considered the capital of the horological world. Although each targets different sectors of watch lovers out there, both have plenty to be proud of.
Tissot
Tissot’s story begins in the mid 19th Century; 1853 to be exact. The father and son team of Charles-Felicien and Charles-Emile Tissot started crafting pocket watches in their home in Le Locle. Among their early successes was the first mass-produced pocket watch as well as the first that could track two time zones.
The Tissots’ timepieces became popular throughout Europe and particularly in the Russian Empire, where nobles purchased many of the pocket watches. Such was the demand, that Charles-Emile moved to Moscow in 1885. In the post-World War I era, when men began wearing wristwatches, Tissot jumped in with both feet, crafting some reliable, accurate, and popular timepieces.
When the Great Depression began in 1929, it impacted industries worldwide, including watchmakers. Tissot was determined to stay in business and partnered with Omega.
The move proved to be a wise one and Tissot thrived, creating one of the first anti-magnetic watches in 1930. As the decade moved on, Tissot became the Official Timekeeper for Swiss ski races in 1938, its reputation growing.
When it came to using uncommon materials for watches, Tissot was near the front of the pack. In 1971, the brand made the first watch with a plastic case. It was innovative for the time and Tissot followed up in 1987 with the first mother-of-pearl dial.
A year later, Tissot created a watch that used wood, a material that is still fairly rare today. The brand now has a reputation as one of the best entry-level watches on the market. It sits under the umbrella of the Swatch Group along with Omega, Hamilton, Breguet, Longines, Blancpain, and several other quality brands.
Rolex
Perhaps more impactful than any innovation or watch model, is the reputation Rolex has created throughout the world. The company was founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, a fine watchmaker and a brilliant marketer. He registered the name “Rolex” in 1908, and following the First World War, moved his company to Switzerland where it thrives to this day as one of the nation’s greatest products.
In 1926, Wilsdorf demonstrated his marketing savvy when he purchased the patent for a water-resistant and dust-resistant case. Rolex developed it into its Oyster case.
Wilsdorf greatly boosted the brand’s reputation a year later, when a British nurse named Mercedes Glietze swam across the English Channel with an Oyster watch draped around her neck. The timepiece came out of the water functioning perfectly and Rolex got a huge amount of publicity.
In its early years, Rolex was an innovator, inventing the perpetual rotor in 1931. The metal semicircle attached to the back of the movement and rotated when the user moved their arms. This wound the mainspring and is the principle behind the automatic watch.
As the years moved forward, Rolex developed a reputation for building quality, durable, and accurate tool watches. Divers, chronographs, and GMTs were offered alongside dress watches and Rolex became the “it” brand.
Today, Rolex has settled into its reputation. It is by far, the best known watch brand on the planet. Even those who don’t know a crown from a bezel know Rolex. So great is the demand for their watches, that Rolex cannot keep up, and obtaining one can involve a long wait and building a relationship with an AD, not to mention shelling out a lot of money.
Model Variety
Although each brand sits on a different tier, both Tissot and Rolex have large catalogs filled with a variety of models of all the types of watches you would hope to find.
Tissot
Tissot offers a wide variety of men’s and women’s watches in several case sizes. Cases and bracelets are available in stainless or gold-colored stainless, as well as two-tone. Genuine leather straps in multiple colors are other options that allow customers to choose their perfect timepiece.
Tissot has a nice selection of dial colors and textures. Standard hues such as white, black, and blue sit in the catalog along with bolder colors such as green, gold, and ivory. Sport watches and casual timepieces are offered along with classy dress watches with either automatic or quartz movement.
Some of the brand’s more popular sport watches are the Seastar divers, which have a water resistance of 300 meters, equal to dive watches available in much higher priced brands.
Fans of chronographs have some nice options in the Supersport Chrono series. The Gentlemen’s, PR100, and PRX models are classic dress watches and are some of Tissot’s best-selling timepieces.
The Le Locle collection features Tissot’s most expensive watches. While being priced below $2,000, these models are available with 18K gold or rose gold cases and bracelets. They add luxury to your wrist at entry-level prices.
Rolex
Rolex also makes men’s and women’s watches and has many different models in its catalog. The classy, dressy Day-Date and Date Just watches are as reliable as they are elegant. Each features a date window at three o’clock magnified by Rolex’s Cyclops lens.
The Day-Date displays the day of the week at 12. These watches come in several precious metals as well as multiple case sizes and dial colors.
One of many popular Rolex models is its first automatic water-resistant watch, the Oyster Perpetual. It’s available in many dial colors and textures and has a solid water resistance of 100 meters.
Rolex has several collections of dive watches with amazing levels of water resistance. The 300-meter Submariner is the base model and since its release in 1953, has maintained a position as one of the most popular dive watches with horology lovers. The classic design has changed little and the dials and bezels are available in numerous color combinations to suit a wide variety of tastes.
Rolex makes two dive models with astonishing levels of water resistance. The Sea-Dweller is water resistant to 1220 meters and the Deepsea is rated to a mind-blowing 3900 meters. Certainly, these are not practical levels of resistance, but they have come about because of the fierce competition between Rolex and Omega.
In 1935, Sir Malcolm Campbell, a British racing driver set a world land speed record while wearing a Rolex, establishing the brand’s longtime connection to motorsport. The record was set in Daytona, Florida, and inspired the name for Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona Chronograph.
One of the most desired and difficult-to-obtain timepieces on the planet, the Daytona was legendary actor Paul Newman’s favorite watch. Available in numerous dial colors, and material options, it’s easy to see why people love it.
Yet another category in which Rolex excels is GMT watches. The GMT-Master was released in 1954 and is extremely popular throughout the world of watch collecting. These models are available in many dial colors with bidirectional rotating bezels that have two colors that nicely coordinate the dial. This has earned them nicknames such as “Batman”, “Root Beer”, “Coke”, and “Pepsi”.
Design
Tissot and Rolex both tend to embrace classic watch design. Rolex likes to stay with established favorites with proven sales records while Tissot is a bit more adventurous.
Tissot
Tissot’s partnership with Omega has influenced its design philosophy. The brand sticks with classic features such as dot and baton indices, Roman numerals, and sword hands. Straps are stitched leather and bracelets three and five link. T
he Powermatic series offers a check texture to the dial, and there are subtle and bold colors available on the brand’s dials. Most models are conservative in design but Tissot does offer some skeleton dials and square cases for watch lovers with more free-spirited tastes.
Rolex
Since its beginning, Rolex has carefully crafted its reputation as the most desired watch on the market. It has been the classic retirement, special achievement, and graduation gift for decades.
For many, it’s the grail of grails. As such, the brand does not mess with success and maintains the same design philosophy that launched it to such lofty heights.
Back in earlier days, Rolex was an innovator in the development of automatic movements and water-resistant timepieces. These days, the brand tends to rest on its laurels but still employs expert watchmakers who craft stunning timepieces of the best materials. These watches are reliable, durable, and among the most accurate in the world.
Rolex does still come out with some boldly-designed watches such as the Daytona Eye of the Tiger. The Oyster Perpetual Gumball is another wild dial that has sold very well. For the most part, though, Rolex stays with the classic designs that have carried to the top. A Submariner from the 1950s or ’60s looks very much like that model does today.
Quartz Rolexes are very rare and the brand has largely stayed with its high-quality automatic movements. The brand also tends to eschew exhibition and elaborately engraved case backs. Doing what you do best when you have a large and enthusiastic fan base is good business sense.
One area where Rolex has had to make some design changes is in making it easier to tell a real Rolex from a fake. No other watch brand is counterfeited nearly as much. Rolex has addressed this by adding features such as a laser-engraved crown logo on the crystal.
Build Quality & Materials
Tissot
Although not a luxury brand, Tissot does use quality materials in their timepiece. Cases, hands, indices, and bracelets are made with industry-standard 316L stainless steel. The surfaces are alternately brushed and polished for a look that pops.
Crystals and exhibition case backs are made from scratch-resistant sapphire coated with an anti-reflective material. This is a nice touch for watches at this price point. The Le Locle collection features some models that have 18K yellow or rose gold cases and bracelets. The popular Gentlemen collection offers titanium cases and bracelets.
Straps are made from genuine leather. Although not top-of-the-line, the straps look great and hold up well to daily wear. Super-Luminova is used on the hands and indices of numerous models. This ensures you can easily read the dial in low-light conditions.
Tissot watches are well-built by qualified watchmakers. Hold one next to a Rolex and the difference is clear, yet a Tissot is still a quality timepiece, especially given the much lower cost.
Rolex
Rolex uses the highest-quality materials in all of its watches. The brand uses its own unique blend of 904L stainless steel, called “Oystersteel”, in cases, bracelets, indices, and hands. It’s durable and looks incredible when brushed and polished.
Precious metal models are made with 18K yellow gold and everose gold. These metals are stunning to look at and are among the most prestigious timepieces in the Rolex catalog.
Rolex covers its dials in top-quality scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, which are anti-reflective coated. This same material is used in the Cyclops lenses that sit over date complications. Divers and GMTs have ceramic bezels that shine and resist scratches.
Straps are made from the highest quality leather, including crocodile. They’re comfortable, durable, and stylish. Rolex continues to live up to its reputation as a crafter of tough tool watches and classy dress watches. Their standards are high and you can be sure that every watch that leaves the factory lives up to them.
Movements
The movement is the heart of a watch and if it doesn’t function well, the looks don’t matter. Rolex is renowned for its movements and Tissot’s watch works are accurate and well-crafted.
Tissot
Tissot does make in-house movements, the best of which is its 11 ½” automatic. These have a useful 38-hour power reserve and are COSC-certified. The brand also has in-house movements that are accurate but not to COSC standards and have 30-hour power reserves. Naturally, these cost less.
Tissot uses generic ETA quartz and automatic movements in its lower-priced timepieces. They are Swiss-made and solidly built with a good degree of accuracy. Tissot’s movements are designed to be admired and with the exhibition case back models, you can do just that.
Rolex
Rolex was an innovator in developing automatic movements during its infancy. They excelled at modifying new advancements from other brands to create their own movements. A great example of this is the modified Zenith movement that Rolex used in the first Daytona models.
Currently, Rolex tends to stick with what works and their watches are powered by movements that are COSC-certified, reliable, durable, and some of the most accurate in the world of horology.
The power reserves are generous and the materials and craftsmanship are second to none. Rolex has rarely made quartz movements and doesn’t make exhibition case backs. Although you can’t see the movements, they are works of art.
Price Point
In the category of price point, there is a huge gap between these two brands. This is to be expected, as Tissot is an entry-level brand and Rolex occupies the luxury level.
Tissot
If you are just getting into watches, Tissot is one of the first brands you should look at. They offer many models that sell for less than $500.
Their in-house automatics can be had for $500-$1,000. At the top of the catalog are the Le Locle models, with the highest price settling in at $1,800. Quite a bargain for a precious metal timepiece.
Tissot gives you a ton of value for what you pay. High-quality, in-house COSC-certified movements, 18K gold, and all models prices below $2,000.
Rolex
Ah, Rolex. If you want one, you are going to pay. The brand takes advantage of its lofty status and even the lowest-priced models are close to the $10,000 mark. Once you start getting into the more desirable Rolexes, you’re talking north of $10,000 and even $20,000.
It is also difficult to obtain a Rolex. The brand simply cannot keep up with the incredible demand and Rolex ADs often will not have the model you are looking for.
You have to put your name on a list of interest and compete with regular customers who will take priority. Waits for Submariners, Daytonas, and GMT-Masters are usually measured in years.
An alternate way to go is to buy one on the grey market. However, you will likely have to pay much higher than retail.
Although Rolex makes extremely high-quality and beautiful watches, I have to score them low on value for the money. You are paying a premium for reputation and prestige. Is it worth it? I say no, but that’s for you to decide.
Conclusion
Comparing Tissot and Rolex is a stretch considering the difference in their status in the horological world. Despite this, both are excellent brands. If you are just starting your watch collection, I urge you to check out Tissot. You can easily find them.
Most major department stores carry Tissot and you can try a bunch on and for a reasonable price, walk out with the one you love that day. Going through the hassle and expense of getting a Rolex doesn’t make sense for beginners. Your tastes will change so why spend that much at the start?
Rolex has the rep and the street cred. If it’s your grail, then go for it. Just be warned, you will be shelling out a lot of money and going through loopholes. If you are a more experienced collector and have the money and patience, by all means, grab yourself a Rolex.
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