Category: Watch Reviews

The romantic gesture of an automatic watch is just that; a romantic idea that you and the machine are one, reliant on the other. Unfortunately, unlike your motor vehicle or favorite appliance, you’re not really able to tell how much life is left within the movement.

That is unless you have a Power Reserve Indicator. Some find this complication essential as it tells the wearer just how much life is left, whereas others feel this is a tad polarizing. Unnecessary, and all it does is spoil the lines of the design.

The reality is this used to be an essential part of a working man’s pocket watch, and unsurprisingly the complication has stood the test of time. Let’s look at the 15 Best Watches with a Power Reserve Indicator.

About the Power Reserve Indicator

You’ll often see that watches or calibers have a listed “power reserve”, such as the Seiko caliber NH36 which has a power reserve of 41 hours, or the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Limited Edition IW5035-10 which has a 7-day power reserve. 

Remember, unlike a quartz watch, an automatic movement works with the power built up by the rotor (or by the manually wound crown). This energy is then stored or coiled into the mainspring and slowly released to make the watch work. 

It is often explained in relation to the little cars we played with as kids. You pull them back to wind them up and release them, and they shoot forward as the energy is released. A watch is meant to keep time, so, the energy release isn’t as aggressive as the little car.

Though, given the option, I’m sure any 4-year-old would prefer a bright red sports car over an A. Lange & Söhne. A power reserve is a display on the dial that relays to the wearer how much power reserve is left in the movement at any given time.

Originally used in the marine and railroad sectors (on pocket watches), the Swiss-French watch company Breguet created the first wristwatch with this complication, but it was merely a prototype. The first brand to offer this technology to the general public was Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1948 (obviously), with a line of watches called the Powermatic. 

What Is The Purpose of a Power Reserve Indicator in Watches?

Simply put, to tell you how much power is left! This might seem like a simple answer, but it goes a little bit deeper than that. Watches were originally worn as tools. These were tools humanity wore on our greatest missions and adventures, and they had to work. 

The Speedmaster helped put man on the moon, the Deepsea helped numerous divers, and the G-Shock has been used by more military personnel than you, or I could possibly fathom. These timepieces need to work, and part of that means it needs to have power… 

Having an idea of how much power is left can help you in many tight spaces or places. If you’re diving and your watch is about to run out of power but need it to time your dive, you best get out quickly. If you’re timing intervals as an engineer and suddenly lose your timing tool, your measurements afterward won’t be worth much. 

15 Best Watches With Power Reserve Indicators

Patek Philippe Nautilus Moon Phase (ref. 5712/1A)

The first Nautilus was launched in 1976 with the ref. 3700, and has since become one of the most sought-after watches on the planet. The ref. 5712 was launched in 2006 and elevates the steel Nautilus by integrating several popular complications, a moon phase, radial date, and a power reserve. 

The 40mm steel case houses the caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, which is equipped with a 48-hour power reserve. If you turn the watch, this movement presents itself thanks to a sapphire caseback, allowing you to view the Cotes de Geneve across the bridges and the 22K gold micro-rotor.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time Power Reserve (ref. 26120ST.OO.1220ST.01)

The original Royal Oak was designed by the legend Gerald Genta, who also designed the Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur, and various other big hitters. This Royal Oak features the same angular shape and integrated bracelet. The white tapisserie dial features various complications, such as a radial date, a second time zone with day and night indication at 6 o’clock, and a power reserve indication at 9 o’clock.

Despite the high complications, the watch remains incredibly wearable with a 39mm case. This case houses the caliber 2329/2846, which has a power reserve of 38 hours. This particular reference was discontinued in 2015. 

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

Completing the Holy Trinity, we have the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day Date, which honors the original model from 1956. A timeless case design matched with a silver dial featuring subdials that are finished with concentric circles. 

The polished 40mm case is matched with a leather strap to make a particularly useful dress watch. Complications include a day-date function and the power reserve indicator, which shows how much of the 40-hour power reserve the caliber 2475 SC/2 has. 

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down (ref. 234.026)

Perhaps one of the most iconic design languages belongs to A. Lange & Söhne as presented with the 1815 Up/Down. Finished in 18K white gold, the 39mm case has a thickness of merely 8.7mm, meaning it can slide under any cuff. 

As far as complications go, this reference may not be as inspiring as other models in the range. But, the watch still features the quintessential blued hands, Arabic numerals, and an exceptional hand-wound movement.

Caliber L051.2 offers the wearer a 72-hour power reserve which they can track courtesy of Patent No. 9349. This patent was granted to A. Lange & Söhne on 18 May 1879, allowing the Maison to indicate the power reserve on their pocket watches. 

Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.53.40.22.03.001)

Omega is certainly known for its sports models, but they have an extremely well-executed dress range as well, such as the De Ville Trésor. A thin and elegant rose gold case (or Sedna^TM Gold) is matched with a blue dial and blue strap. 

The dial is relatively simple, focusing on a clean aesthetic. You’ll find a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, indicating the power left in the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8935. This movement is equipped with a 72-hour power reserve. 

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

Grand Seiko is known both for exquisite finishing as well as some impressive technological advancements—the ref. SBGA211 or otherwise known as the ‘Snowflake’ embodies this duality perfectly. Released in 2017, the 41mm case is constructed from Grand Seiko’s “high intensity” titanium, an alloy stronger but significantly lighter than stainless steel.

The finish on the case is something to behold, a high gloss with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing method done by hand. The razor hands are powered by the Spring Drive Caliber 9R65, which also indicates its power reserve on the dial. Of course, this complication is also an aesthetic event and features guilloche patterns. 

Glashütte Original PanoReserve (ref. 1-65-01-26-12-61)

Glashütte Original is a German watch company based in Glashütte – obviously. Their design language is in line with other Germanic brands and makes itself known with the PanoReserve. A 40mm polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case is matched with an asymmetrical galvanic deep blue dial. 

The dial features various sub-registers and complications, such as a time indicator, small seconds, power reserve, and a large date function. When the 42 hours of power reserve is fully loaded, the power reserve indicator will display “AUF”, which means up in German. Conversely, if your watch is running low on energy, it will display “AB”, which means down. 

Turning the case over reveals the caliber 65-01, which is expertly finished as you would expect from one of the leading Germanic manufacturers. A nice touch to the movement’s finish is the addition of blued screws, truly combining utility with art. 

Breguet Classique 5277 (ref. 5277BR/12/9V6)

Despite what the second-hand market would make you believe, Breguet is one of the most important and definitive watchmakers on the planet. The Classique 5277 lives up to this moniker by combining extraordinary finishing with technological prowess. 

A 38mm rose gold case houses the caliber 515DR, a hand-wound movement with a staggering 96-hour power reserve. On the silvered gold dial, you’ll find hand finishing matched with their namesake blued Breguet hands. The watch is also offered in a white gold case, but the rose gold gives you a greater contrast. 

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days (ref. 405.NX.0137.LR)

Hublot is known for its avant-garde design paired with some of the most precious metals you can come by. Paired with a black leather strap, the polished and satin-finished titanium case offers extremely great contrast.

Even though the size is a hefty 45mm, thanks to the lightweight titanium the watch feels quite versatile on the wrist. But, of course, the main attraction is the dial with the tourbillon, a feature that essentially plays no role in a wristwatch other than being eye candy.

And when in the familiar case of the Big Bang, it’s quite the attraction. Behind the skeletonized dial beats the caliber HUB6016, a manually wound movement with a staggering 115 hours of power, which you can track thanks to the addition of a power reserve function on the dial. 

Blancpain Ultraplate (ref. 6606A 1127 55B)

Blancpain is the world’s oldest watch company, founded in 1735. They are known for relying heavily on their heritage diving models as they used to be up there with Submariners and Superoceans. The Ultraplate referenced here is not a dive watch but a dress piece with an elegant feel matched with a sleek dial.

The timepiece forms part of their ‘Villeret collection’, which is based on tradition and prime aesthetics. The 40mm steel case measures only 8.55mm in thickness, making it perfect for any dress cuff. The ultrathin watch houses the caliber 11C5.4, a hand-winding movement displaying a small seconds hand as well as a power reserve, which is rated at 72 hours. 

Longines Master Collection Power Reserve (ref. L2.908.4.92.6)

Longines is widely known as being one of the best value-for-money Swiss watches you can get your hand on, especially the Master Collection, where Longines displays elegance combined with high complications. The ref. L2.908.4.92.6 does just that, as it presents itself as a slightly more dressy daily watch. 

The 40mm case can be fitted with a steel bracelet or a leather strap and can come with a ‘Sunray Blue’ or ‘Silver “barleycorn”’ dial. The latter of which is matched with blued steel hands creating a beautiful contrast.

At the 6 o’clock position sits the power reserve indicator, and a date aperture is located at the 3 o’clock position. Internally, the watch is powered by the caliber L602 based on the ETA 2892. This self-winding movement is equipped with a 42-hour power reserve.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time “Sky Diving” SSA343J1

The Presage line is the dress watch line from the popular Seiko brand. Based in Japan, Seiko is more known for its sports and dive models; however, these dress watches have proven to be quite versatile. 

The ‘Sky Diving’ is the light blue version in the Presage line and offers a dial finish you will not get anywhere else at this price point. The 40.5mm case is matched with a leather strap and houses the caliber 4R57.

This caliber is automatic but has hand-winding abilities and a power reserve rated at 41 hours. The power reserve is indicated in a rather unique way that has not been seen on this list so far.

It is located within the hour markers, and the hand stems from the center, where the hour and minute hands also stem. This unique attribute perfectly fits the watch’s overall aesthetic and is a welcome change to regular power reserve indicators.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 (ref. 01 111 7711 4163-Set 1 22 72FC)

Oris is one of the last independent Swiss watch companies today and is certainly not afraid to push the envelope of design and technology. The Big Crown line has been a mainstay for the last couple of years, and with the introduction of the caliber 111, the watch has been elevated to a new status.

The 44mm case features various other pilot watch characteristics, such as a highly legible dial, a large crown (as the name suggests), and various complications. The anthracite dial features a small seconds sub-register and a date aperture at 9 o’clock, something you don’t see every day. 

On the 3 o’clock position sits the power reserve indicator, which displays how much of the 10-day power reserve is left. If 10 days sound like a lot, that’s because it is. The movement features various technical anomalies, like a 1.8m (5′ 11″) mainspring, to allow for the extended power reserve. 

IWC Portuguese Automatic 7 Day Reserve (ref. IW500710)

The ‘Portuguese’ was originally developed for two Portuguese clients, and throughout its long history, the name has been changed to Portugieser. The Portugieser has remained a mainstay of the dress lineup in the IWC catalog, and this contemporary version is no different. 

The deep blue dial features three complications, a date function at the 6 o’clock position and two subregisters displaying small seconds and the power reserve. At 42.3mm, the watch stays true to being large but not quite as large as the other offerings in the IWC catalog. 

The movement powering the watch is the caliber 52010, which is part of IWC’s 52000 family. First launched in 2015, this is widely known as IWC’s 7-day automatic movements, in reference to the staggering 7-day power reserve. 

Panerai Luminor GMT 10 Days (ref. PAM00986)

To round off the extreme power reserve timepieces, we have the ref. PAM00986, a Luminor Marina, presents a beautiful deep blue dial that contrasts greatly with the classic stainless steel case. Legibility is fantastic, as you might expect from Panerai, with the use of large hands and hour markers, the former of which is filled with luminescent material. 

The 44m Panerai doesn’t just display the power reserve but also features an AM/PM indicator as well as a GMT function. This is all thanks to the caliber P.2003, which, as the name suggests, has a 10-day power reserve. The case also features the trademarked crown bridge guard, which solidifies the tool watch moniker of the watch. 

Conclusion

To some, the power reserve indicator may seem moot in this day and age. But when you think about it, isn’t the idea of an automatic watch a romantic one? If you look at it like that, a power reserve indicator is functional and has a connection to your watch. You can see time pass in more ways than one; now that’s something a smartphone won’t be able to do.

With the advancement in technology, watches have become more than just a timepiece. They now come equipped with various features that cater to different needs and requirements. One such feature is the pulsometer, a specialized scale that allows the wearer to measure their heart rate. 

A pulsometer is a must-have feature for medical professionals, athletes, and fitness enthusiasts who need to monitor their heart rates regularly. 

In this article, we will explore some of the top watches with a pulsometer currently on the market. We will look at the different styles, features, and prices of these watches to help you make an informed decision when choosing the perfect watch for your needs.

We will cover a range of brands and models, including luxury watches from high-end brands, as well as more affordable options, such as microbrands, that offer great value for money. From classic designs to more modern and futuristic styles, there is a pulsometer watch for everyone.

About the Pulsometer Complication

In the early 19th century, physicians began using a pulsometer to measure a patient’s heart rate. This device consisted of a small clock with a second hand that would be started when the physician began counting the patient’s pulse.

The physician would then stop the clock after a predetermined number of seconds had elapsed, and the number of ticks on the clock’s second hand would indicate the patient’s heart rate. Watchmakers soon realized that they could incorporate this function into their timepieces by adding a pulsometer scale to the watch’s dial.

The scale typically consists of markings that indicate the number of heartbeats per minute, along with a chronograph function that can be used to time the pulse. Patek Philippe made one of the earliest examples of a watch with a pulsometer scale in the late 1800s.

This watch featured a white enamel dial with black Arabic numerals and a red pulsometer scale. Other watchmakers soon followed suit, and by the early 20th century, pulsometer watches were popular among doctors and other medical professionals.

In addition to their medical applications, pulsometer watches were also prized for their aesthetic appeal. The combination of a sleek, elegant watch with a useful medical function made these timepieces highly desirable among collectors.

Today, several high-end watchmakers still produce pulsometer watches, including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. These watches typically feature a chronograph function with a pulsometer scale on the dial and other advanced features, such as a tachymeter scale for measuring speed or a moon phase indicator. 

What Is The Purpose of Watches With a Pulsometer?

Watches with pulsometers serve a very specific purpose: measuring a person’s heart rate. This is a useful feature for athletes, doctors, and anyone who needs to keep track of their heart rate for health or fitness reasons. For athletes, a pulsometer watch can help them monitor their heart rate during exercise.

By timing their pulse using the watch’s chronograph function and pulsometer scale, they can ensure they stay within their target heart rate zone for optimal training results. This can help them avoid overexertion or under-exertion and ensure they get the most out of their workouts.

For doctors and other medical professionals, a pulsometer watch can be a valuable tool for diagnosing and treating patients. By measuring a patient’s heart rate with the watch’s chronograph and pulsometer scale, they can quickly and easily determine if the patient’s heart rate is too high or too low.

This can help them identify potential health problems and take appropriate action to treat them. Watches with pulsometers can also be useful for people monitoring their heart health for medical reasons.

For example, someone with a heart condition may need to monitor their heart rate regularly to ensure it stays within a specific range. A pulsometer watch can make this process much easier and more convenient than using a separate pulse measurement device.

The Best Watches With a Pulsometer

1. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CK2998 PULSOMETER 311.32.40.30.02.001

The Omega Speedmaster CK2998 Pulsometer is a limited-edition timepiece that pays homage to the original Speedmaster CK2998 model, which was introduced in 1959 and became one of the most popular and iconic models in the Speedmaster collection.

The CK2998 Pulsometer features a 39.7mm stainless steel case with a polished finish and a black ceramic bezel with a pulsometer scale. 

The lightly sandblasted silver dial of the CK2998 Pulsometer is adorned with three subdials: a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The hour and minute hands are gray, and the seconds hand is red, offering a pop of color. 

The movement powering the CK2998 Pulsometer is the Omega Caliber 1861, a hand-wound chronograph movement known for its reliability and precision. The watch has a power reserve of 48 hours and is water resistant up to 50 meters. The CK2998 Pulsometer is limited to 2,998 pieces and comes with a black leather strap.

Price: $10,700 

2. LONGINES PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH L2.801.4.23.2

The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph is a classic timepiece that combines elegance and functionality. Inspired by vintage medical watches, this watch features a pulsometer scale that allows the wearer to measure their heart rate quickly and accurately.

The timepiece features a 40mm stainless steel case with a polished finish. The white dial is adorned with a pulsometer scale on the outer rim and two subdials: a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, and a date window at 6 o’clock.

The hour markers and hands are made of blue steel, adding a touch of sophistication to the watch. The movement powering the watch is the Longines Caliber L788.2, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 54 hours.

The timepiece is water resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. The watch comes with a brown leather strap with a buckle clasp that complements the vintage-inspired design of the watch. 

Price: $2,150

3. BLANCPAIN VILLERET CHRONOGRAPHE FLYBACK PULSOMÈTRE 6680F 3631 55B

The Blancpain Villeret Chronographe Flyback Pulsomètre is a stunning timepiece that seamlessly blends traditional design with modern functionality. Named after the brand’s birthplace, the Villeret collection is known for its understated elegance and high watchmaking standards.

The watch features a 43.7mm rose gold case with a polished finish. The white dial is adorned with a pulsometer scale on the outer rim, two sundials, and a date window. The hour markers and hands are made of rose gold.

The movement powering the Blancpain Villeret Chronographe Flyback Pulsomètre is the in-house Caliber F385, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 50 hours. The flyback function allows the wearer to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button, making it ideal for timing events with multiple phases.

The watch is water resistant up to 30 meters. The timepiece comes with a brown leather strap with a folding clasp that complements the watch’s sophisticated design. 

Price: $33,000

4. ORIS BIG CROWN ROYAL FLYING DOCTOR SERVICE LIMITED EDITION II 01 735 7728 4084-Set LS

The Oris Big Crown Royal Flying Doctor Service is a distinctive and rugged timepiece that pays tribute to the Royal Flying Doctor Service of Australia. The watch is designed to be both functional and stylish, with a unique blend of aviation and medical themes.

The watch features a 45mm stainless steel case with a coin-edge bezel. The black dial is easily readable with white numbers and markers. There’s a pulsometer in dark orange on the outer rim. There’s also a day and date display window at the 3 o’clock position.

The timepiece is powered by the Oris Caliber 735, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 50 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The watch comes with a brown leather strap with a folding clasp that complements the vintage-inspired design of the watch. Limited to 2,000 pieces.

Price: $2,000

5. PATEK PHILIPPE CHRONOGRAPH 5170J-001

The Patek Philippe Chronograph is a classic and elegant timepiece that is a masterpiece of Swiss watchmaking. This watch is part of the company’s flagship collection, the Calatrava line, and is renowned for its precision, reliability, and sophistication.

The watch features a 39mm case made of 18k yellow gold, giving it a luxurious and timeless appeal. The silver dial is adorned with Arabic numerals and gold hour markers, and the two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock display the 30-minute counter and the small seconds, respectively.

The watch also features a pulsometer scale on the outer rim. The movement powering the 5170J-001 is the Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29-535 PS, a hand-wound mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 65 hours.

The watch is water-resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for occasional splashes and rain. The 5170J-001 comes with a brown alligator strap with a folding clasp that complements the watch’s elegant design. 

Price: $52,566

6. A. LANGE & SÖHNE 1815 PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH 414.028

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 is a stunning example of the German brand’s uncompromising dedication to traditional watchmaking techniques and exceptional craftsmanship. This watch is part of the 1815 collection, which pays tribute to the birth year of Ferdinand A. Lange, the company’s founder.

The timepiece features a 39.5mm case made of 18k white gold, with a sapphire crystal case back that allows a view of the beautifully decorated hand-wound mechanical movement. The black dial is adorned with silver Arabic numerals and hands, giving it a classic and timeless appearance. The dial also features a pulsometer scale.

The movement powering the 1815 Pulsometer Chronograph is the A. Lange & Söhne Caliber L951.5, a hand-wound mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is beautifully finished with traditional techniques such as hand-engraving, chamfering, and polishing and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

The watch comes with a black alligator leather strap with a white gold buckle, completing the understated and elegant design. The 1815 Pulsometer Chronograph is water resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

Price: $50,522 

7. VACHERON CONSTANTIN HARMONY CHRONOGRAPH CALIBER 3300 5100S/000R-B623

The Vacheron Constantin Harmony is a beautiful and sophisticated timepiece. The timepiece features a 42mm case made of 18k rose gold. The silver-tone dial is adorned with rose gold hands and markers, and the two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock display the 30-minute counter and the small seconds, respectively.

The watch also features a pulsometer on the outer rim of the dial. The movement powering the Harmony Chronograph is the Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3300, a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a power reserve of 65 hours.

The movement is beautifully finished with traditional techniques such as Côtes de Genève and perlage and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The watch comes with a brown alligator strap with a rose gold folding clasp that complements the watch’s elegant design.

The Harmony Chronograph is water resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for occasional splashes and rain.

Price: $65,800 

8. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CHRONOSCOPE 329.30.43.51.03.00

This timepiece combines the iconic Speedmaster design with a 40s vintage vibe. The stainless-steel case features a blue dial with silver numerals, markers, two subdials, a pulsometer, and small seconds. 

The timepiece is powered by the in-house 9908 with a 60-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 50M. All this is paired with a stainless-steel bracelet. 

Price: $6,000

9. JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVING CHRONOGRAPH WITH PULSOMETER Q1862640

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master is a robust and versatile watch designed for the needs of professional divers and athletes. This timepiece is part of the prestigious Master Compressor series, renowned for its precision, durability, and functionality.

The watch features a 44mm stainless steel case that is water resistant up to 1000 meters, making it suitable for deep-sea diving. The black dial features luminescent hands and index hour markers. The dial also features a date display at the 4 o’clock position and subdials that include a pulsometer.

The chronograph function is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 757 movement, which is a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of up to 65 hours.

The watch comes with a black rubber strap that is comfortable to wear and complements the watch’s sporty yet elegant design. The strap features a double folding clasp with a safety release, which ensures a secure and comfortable fit.

Price: $17,995 

10. GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER VINTAGE PULSOMETER 2CVCS.U14A

The Graham Chronofighter Vintage Pulsometer 2CVCS.U14A is a stunning timepiece that combines vintage aesthetics with modern functionality. The watch is part of Graham’s Chronofighter collection, which is renowned for its precise timing and rugged construction.

The watch features a 44mm stainless steel case with a polished finish that gives it a classic and timeless appearance. The blue dial features gold ring hands. There’s a day and date window at 9 o’clock. The dial also features a pulsometer scale.

The watch’s chronograph function is powered by Graham’s Caliber G1718 movement, which is a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of up to 48 hours. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, showcasing the movement’s beautiful finishing and precision engineering.

The watch comes with a blue leather strap that is comfortable to wear and complements the watch’s vintage aesthetic. The strap features a stainless-steel buckle with Graham’s signature logo, adding elegance to the overall design.

Price: $5,450 

11. MONTBLANC MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH 111626

The Montblanc Meisterstück is a luxurious timepiece combining classic design and modern features. This watch is part of the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage collection, celebrating the brand’s 90-year history of crafting fine writing instruments and accessories.

The watch features a sleek 41mm rose gold case with a polished finish paired with a black alligator strap that provides both comfort and sophistication. The silver dial is elegantly designed with mixed pink-tone gold Roman numeral and markers, rose gold sword-shaped hour and minute hands, a blue seconds hand, and a pulsometer scale.

The watch is powered by the Montblanc MB M13.21 automatic movement, which provides accurate timekeeping and a power reserve of up to 55 hours. The movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back, which also displays the iconic Montblanc star emblem.

In addition to its classic design, the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph 111626 also includes modern features such as a date display at 6 o’clock and a chronograph function that measures elapsed time up to 30 minutes.

These features are operated by pushers located on either side of the crown, which is adorned with the Montblanc emblem.

Price: $32,400 

12. TAG HEUER MONZA CR2080.FC6375

TAG Heuer Monza is a sleek timepiece that combines classic design with modern technology. The watch features a striking 42mm black titanium carbide-coated steel case paired with a black perforated leather strap that provides both comfort and style.

The black dial is elegantly designed with two chronograph subdials, a sporty red seconds hand, and the TAG Heuer logo in white. The watch is powered by the TAG Heuer Calibre17 automatic movement and a power reserve of up to 42 hours. This model includes a date display at 6 o’clock, a pulsometer, and is water resistant to 100m.

Price: $5,950 

13. BELL & ROSS BR V2-94 GARDE-CÔTES CHRONOGRAPH BRV294-ORA-ST/SST

This Bell & Ross timepiece is inspired by the Garde-Côtes, which is the French Coast Guard. This watch is designed to be durable and reliable, making it ideal for professionals who require a watch that can withstand the demands of their job.

The case is made from stainless steel, which is durable and corrosion-resistant. The case measures 41mm in diameter. The case is also water resistant to a depth of 100 meters, making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling.

The watch’s dial is gray with white and orange accents, giving it a sporty look. The hour and minute hands and indices markers are white. The seconds hand is orange.  The watch is powered by the BR-CAL.301 automatic movement.

The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The watch features a chronograph, date, and pulsometer. The timepiece is paired with a stainless steel bracelet. 

Price: $3,350 

14. LONGINES ASTHMOMETER-PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH L2.787.4.16.2

This watch is inspired by the medical chronographs that were popular in the early 20th century and are designed to measure the respiratory rate and pulse of the wearer.

The case of the Asthmometer-Pulsometer Chronograph is made from stainless steel and measures 38.5mm in diameter. The case is also water resistant to a depth of 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The dial of the watch is white with a gold 12 and gold markers and hands. The dial is easy to read and has a classic and elegant look. The dial also features three subdials, one for the 30-minute counter, one for the small seconds, and one for the column wheel. 

The watch is powered by the L688 automatic movement. The movement has a power reserve of 54 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This particular timepiece features a pulsometer and asthmometer scale around the outer edge of the dial. 

The strap of the Asthmometer-Pulsometer Chronograph is made from black alligator leather and has a stainless-steel buckle. The strap is comfortable to wear and adds to the classic and elegant look of the watch.

Price: $1,866 

15. ETERNA PULSOMETER LIMITED EDITION 1942 1942.41.64.1177

This timepiece is designed to measure the wearer’s pulse rate and is inspired by the medical chronographs that were popular in the 1940s.

The case of the Pulsometer Limited Edition is made from stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter. The case is also water resistant to a depth of 50 meters, making it suitable for swimming and snorkeling.

The dial of the watch is silver with blue hands and green numerals. The dial has two subdials and a date window at the 6 o’clock position. The dial also features a pulsometer scale around the outer edge.

The watch is powered by the caliber ETA 2894-2. The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The strap of the Pulsometer Limited Edition is made from black leather with a stainless-steel buckle. The Pulsometer Limited Edition is a numbered limited edition of only 1,942 pieces, which makes it a highly collectible timepiece. 

Price: $794 

16. BOLDR FIELD MEDIC II

This is a COVID-19-inspired timepiece designed to celebrate the healthcare community at the frontlines of the pandemic. 

The case is made of titanium, and the size is 38mm. The “panda dial” is white with two black sundials. The indices are black, the hour and minute hands are gray, and the seconds hand is red, as are the subdial hands. The entire dial is luminous in the dark.  

The timepiece is powered by the VK64 Mecha-Quartz movement by Seiko and features a date window at the 6 o’clock position and a pulsometer. The watch is paired with a nylon NATO strap. 

Price: $299

17. NERO SABBIA 1072-A

Nero Sabbia is a Swiss watch brand that specializes in creating luxury timepieces that are both elegant and unique. The brand was founded in 2016 by a group of passionate watchmakers who wanted to create watches that combined traditional Swiss craftsmanship with modern design elements.

The name “Nero Sabbia” translates to “black sand” in Italian and reflects the brand’s philosophy of creating timeless and innovative timepieces. The brand’s watches are designed to be worn by both men and women and feature bold, distinctive designs that stand out from other luxury watch brands.

One of the defining features of Nero Sabbia watches is the use of unconventional materials in their construction. The brand uses materials such as ceramic, carbon fiber, and titanium to create watches that are both lightweight and durable.

The brand’s watches are also known for their distinctive case shapes, which range from sleek and minimalist to bold and angular. The case of this timepiece is made of 316L stainless steel and measures 38mm.

The striking sand colors of the roman numerals, subdial and outer pulsometer against the black dial give the timepiece a distinctive look. It features a Seiko VK64 Mecha-Quartz movement and is paired with a tanned Italian beige leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle. 

Price: $607

18. HAVEN CHILTON MK1

The Haven Watch Company was founded by Weston Cutter, an English professor, along with his father, Wes, a watchmaker, and his lifelong best friend, Steve Reidell, an art director. 

Founded on a love for luxury, well-made timepieces, and midwestern practicality, they birth a line of watches that seek to deliver the quality of the watchmaking elites, for a modest price. 

The MK1 offers a vintage, rugged, and colorful design. The case is made of 316L stainless steel with a titanium caseback. The silver dial features three subdials and a pulsometer. 

The timepiece is powered by an automatic Sellita SW510 M b movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. The bracelet is stainless steel with a handmade clasp. 

Price: $1,799 

19. ZEPPELIN LZ126 LOS ANGELES 8644-1

This is a stylish and sophisticated men’s timepiece that pays homage to the era of airships and aviation. The watch features a classic design that blends vintage elements with modern technology, making it a unique and eye-catching timepiece.

The watch has a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 42mm. The case is polished to a high shine and features a sleek, minimalist design that is both elegant and understated. The case is also water-resistant up to 50 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The dial of the watch is white with contrasting black indices and hands. The timepiece features a date window at the 12 o’clock position, a second time zone subdial at the 6 o’clock position, and a pulsometer. 

The watch is powered by a Swiss quartz Ronda 6203.B movement. The black leather strap features contrasting white stitching. 

Price: $263

20. KOBOLD PULSOMETER CHRONOGRAPH WATCH KD 942161

This is a high-end timepiece designed for medical professionals and enthusiasts who value precision and accuracy in their work. The watch has a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 39.5mm.

The case is brushed to a satin finish, giving it a sleek and understated look. The case is also water resistant up to 100 meters. The dial of the watch is blue (there’s also a copper dial version) with contrasting silver-gray hour markers and hands.

There’s a date window at the 9 o’clock position and a subdial at the 3 o’clock position. The bezel is brushed steel. The watch is thick and sits high on the wrist. There’s a pulsometer scale on the outer edge of the dial.

Conclusion

Timepieces with pulsometers have a rich history and serve a specific purpose – measuring heart rate. From their practical uses in sports and medicine to their aesthetic appeal, these watches are a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of watchmakers. Whether for function or fashion, a pulsometer watch is a unique and valuable timepiece.

There are fewer hotly debated topics amongst watch enthusiasts than the highly useful and most elementary of calendar complications, the date complication. Does it belong? And where, 3, 6, 9, 4:30! Where?

While some believe that, from a complication standpoint, there is none more useful for your day-to-day than a date complication, others see it as a mar on a dial, breaking its symmetry and ultimately being the reason for not purchasing a timepiece. 

Strangely enough, as complications get more complicated (e.g. day-date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar), enthusiasts and collectors seemingly change their tune. They look at these complications as must-haves for a well-rounded collection and the most sought-after in all of Haute Horology. 

With that said, strap in and thank the Romans for the development of the calendar because we are going to dive into the world of annual calendar timepieces, discuss a bit about its history and origins, compare it to its older brother (Perpetual Calendar), and showcase the 20 best annual calendar watches.

History of Annual Calendar Watches

As far as watch complications are concerned, the annual calendar is a relatively new complication. It was the mid-nineties, we were a few years out of the Cold War, Seinfeld and F.R.I.E.N.D.S. were on everyone’s TV, and the watch world was slowly recovering from the quartz crisis.

Because of the efforts of watch brands like Patek Philippe and its President, Philippe Stern, watch enthusiasts’ interest in mechanical complications was on the rise. 

The story goes that the idea for the annual calendar was developed as a graduate project of an engineering student at the Geneva School of Engineering after Patek challenged the school to invent a new movement that would invite a new sector of the market to purchase more mechanically complicated timepieces at a more financially accessible price point. 

This is Patek we are talking about, so the “accessible price point” is subjective at best. Patek loved what they saw, awarded the young engineer with a prize, and he went to work with Patek immediately. Patek brought the first annual calendar watch to market with the release and debut of the Patek Philippe ref. 5035 at the Basel Fair 1996.

In the fall of the same year, this watch was awarded “Watch of the Year”. With its incredibly legible and well-balanced three-register dial and, more often than not, gold case, the 5035 appealed to many perpetual calendar lovers because of its luxurious design and less expensive price tag.

Annual Calendar Watches vs Perpetual Calendar Watches

So what is an annual calendar timepiece, and how does it compare to its older brother, the perpetual calendar? Well, to begin, let’s discuss the functionality of both and see the differences between the two complications.

Annual Calendar

An annual calendar timepiece displays and correctly advances the day, date, and month taking into account and differentiating between 30 and 31-day months. With that said, the only manual change that needs to be made by the owner is once a year for the month of February.

Perpetual Calendar

A perpetual calendar timepiece was created to correctly advance the day, date, month, and year until the year 2100, taking into account the month of February and leap years without any manual adjustments by the owner. 

The first perpetual calendar wristwatch, notice I said wristwatch, was brought to market in 1925 by Patek Philippe (shocker!) with the ref. 97975. With that said, the earliest known example of a perpetual calendar was in a pocket watch made by Thomas Mudge in 1762. 

Verdict

So after comparing the functionality of both the annual and perpetual calendars, it is pretty evident that the difference is minimal. Aside from the manual adjustments that must be made once a year and the overall cost, these two siblings are very similar.

Annual Calendar Watches Purpose

So you might be asking yourself, what purpose does an annual calendar watch serve in today’s world? That is a question that anyone with a mechanical timepiece on their wrist should be asking themselves every day. 

In a day and age when we have an infinite amount of knowledge and information at the tips of our fingers, the last thing we are ever in need of is an incredibly complicated mechanical timepiece to tell us where we are in a calendar year. But the annual calendar is a reminder of what it means to be a skilled artist. 

A reminder that even though a smartwatch is more practical and efficient, there is something romantic about a mechanical timepiece that harkens back to a time when the accuracy and innovation that you wore on your wrist helped you keep track of your day-to-day life as it slowly moved under the arrow of time.

Best Annual Calendar Watches

Now that we have had the opportunity to learn a little more about annual calendar watches and how they work let’s dive into our list of the 20 best annual calendar watches. These are ranked from the most affordable to some that might require taking out a second mortgage on your home. 

It is worth noting that due to some of these timepieces being out of production, the pricing is as close to MSRP as we could find through authorized dealers, not gray market, etc.

Longines 1832 Annual Calendar (ref. L4.827.4.92.2) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 12.3mm | Price $2,359

The Longines 1832 Annual Calendar comes in as the most affordable annual calendar on our list. But don’t mistake its price point as a fault or assume that it means it is lacking in quality. Those who have had the opportunity to handle the flagship 1832 line in the metal know that this aptly named line (1832 being the year it was founded) is an amazing point of entry to the annual calendar complication at an amazing price point without compromising on quality and finishing. 

At 40mm, the Longines Annual Calendar sits right in the sweet spot for most average wristed enthusiasts. Its steel case and beige dial are subdued and incredibly clean. The applied indices and framed month/date window give this piece a bit of depth, character, and light play that would have been otherwise missing with a printed dial.

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar (ref. 00.10803.08.32.01) Case Diameter- 41mm | Case Thickness-14.15mm | Price $7,800

For those who are fans of the John Wick films, Carl F. Bucherer is a name that will sound relatively familiar. The titular character of the series, John Wick, played by the nicest guy in Hollywood, Keanu Reeves, can be seen wearing a Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate throughout the series. 

While the John Wick franchise has definitely made an impact on the cultural zeitgeist of the modern action film, it is the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar that has made an impact on myself and those looking for a beautiful panda or reverse panda dialed chronograph with an annual calendar and a big date! 

This is such an insanely neat piece that offers so much from one of the oldest family and independently-owned Swiss watch manufacturers in the world.

Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar (ref. 130.33.41.22.06.001) Case Diameter- 41mm | Case Thickness- 14.1mm | Price $8,700

What can be said about Omega that hasn’t already been said? A Swiss watch giant that has, since its founding in 1848 by Louis Brandt, created one of the most iconic timepieces in history, the Speedmaster. Oh, and if you haven’t been paying attention or happen to be a hermit living in a cave, it was this watch that went to the Moon. 

At 41mm in diameter and with a case thickness of 14.1mm, the Globemaster works on a wrist like mine, a little over seven inches, but might be pushing the limits in size for some enthusiasts. With that said, I think the Globemaster more than makes up for its size with its highly stylized design, which includes a “Pie Pan” dial, a hallmark, and a callback to the original line of Constellation timepieces from 1952. 

The Globemaster also comes with a Tungsten Carbide bezel, the most scratch-resistant metal known to man. So, if you are one of those enthusiasts who is a little rough on things, the Globemaster might just be the piece for you.

Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar (ref. 03.2070.4054/02.C711) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness-13.85mm | Price $10,183

Depending on who you ask, the Zenith El Primero, which literally means “the first”, was one of the first manufacturers to develop and bring the automatic chronograph movement to market. I say “one of” because there is quite a debate in the watch world about whose automatic movement was actually the first one.

Was it Zenith, Seiko, or the Chonomatic Group (a joint venture between Heuer-Léonidas, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren, and Dubois-Dépraz)?  Regardless, Zenith has a very storied history in the watch world, and the Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar is another timepiece that, as far as annual calendars go, has something we have not yet seen on our list, a day function.

Like the Globemaster, the 41mm case diameter and 14mm case thickness might be a deciding factor for some when purchasing this watch; I believe that some of the extra added features and Zenith’s rich history can make up for some of its shortcomings.

Montblanc Heritage Chronometerie Annual Calendar (ref. 112535) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 9.55mm | Price $11,400

Listen, I know that the name Montblanc doesn’t always bring to mind a rich and storied history of watchmaking. But, since the company’s entrance into the world of horology in 1997, Montblanc strived to have their watches reflect what they were best known for; luxury writing instruments.

Since then, Montblanc has really pushed the envelope when it comes to investing in more complex complications. This is where our number five entry on the list, Montblanc Heritage Chronometerie Annual Calendar, enters. This 40mm, 18kt gold-cased annual calendar has so much to offer.

With its silver sunburst dial and four-register layout, the Montblanc Heritage has something new to offer that we have yet to see on this list; a moonphase. The addition of a moonphase gives the owner a true sense of luxury and refinement that will always be a great conversation piece.

Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph (ref. 1533-320le-0a-175-1a) Case Diameter- 44mm | Case Thickness- 13.6mm | Price $12,700

In its 177-year history, Ulysse Nardin has been at the forefront of technological advancement in the old-world art form of watchmaking. They were the first company to use a silicon hairspring with their release of the 2001 edition of the Ulysse Nardin Freak.

This watch straddled the line between insanity and genius and is still seeing constant innovation. With that said, Ulysses Nardin is no stranger to doing things differently, and in the case of the Torpilleur Annual Chronograph, different is big and bold. The Torpilleur comes in as the third largest timepiece on our list.

At 44mm, the individually numbered Torpilleur has a dual register chronograph layout on a stunningly white varnished dial classically accented by Roman numerals, a mainstay in the Marine Collection. 

Rolex Sky-Dweller (ref. 326934) -0006 Variant Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 14mm | Price $15,900

Like the rest of the Rolex catalog, the Rolex Sky-Dweller is a watch that is synonymous with excellence and reliability. Oh, and an insanely growing price tag and inability to walk into an AD and purchase. Since its release over a decade ago (2012), the Rolex Sky-Dweller is a timepiece aimed at frequent, refined, and cultured world travelers. 

What made the Sky-Dweller such a neat piece with its release was that it was a completely new design without any ties to historical Rolex pieces. The Sky-Dweller has come in a multitude of variants. But, the one I would like to discuss today is the -0006 variant which comes in a 42mm Oystersteel case with white gold fluted bezel, a bright black dial that can simultaneously track two time zones, and of course, the annual calendar. 

So, if you have a great relationship with your AD and consistently travel to Europe for long weekends, I think the Sky-Dweller is the piece for you. 

IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar (ref. IW502710) Case Diameter- 46.2mm | Case Thickness- 15.8mm | Price $21,413

The IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar is just that. BIG. Coming in as the biggest watch on our list, the Big Pilot Annual Calendar is a whopping 46mm and has a thickness of 15.8mm, which is actually not too bad for its size. The Big Pilot certainly has a wrist presence best suited for my tree-trunked armed readers. 

The Big Pilot is the first watch on our list to have a power display that helps you monitor the impressive seven-day power reserve. Though the Big Pilot Annual Calendar is not a watch for everyone, I believe it is a great entry on our list from a manufacturer that has always made an impact in the world of horology.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar (ref. 231.53.43.22.06.001) Case Diameter- 43mm | Case Thickness- 14.6mm | Price $23,300

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is only the second gold-cased watch on our list. The 43mm elegant AT is cased in Omega’s Red Gold, which is darker with more red/orange hues and is much different from Omega’s newest Sedna and Moonshine golds. 

The beautiful case is accented by a “Teak Concept” patterned gray dial that makes the case vividly shine. While I might be a bit of an Omega fanboy, I do think that the two Omega entries on our list are great options for someone looking to purchase an amazing precious timepiece with a useful complication.

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Annual Calendar (ref. 4000E/000A-B439) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 11.6mm | Price $26,400

The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Annual Calendar is the second entry on our list to utilize a moonphase. While I earlier described a moonphase as a great conversation piece, it is worth mentioning that there is something romantic and poetic to a complication that can sometimes be underutilized. 

While the moonphase is not the focus of this article, I do believe it was very well-executed and helps to tie an incredibly well-balanced dial together. The FiftySix has a brilliantly silver-toned dial that is accented by a blue date hand, which helps distinguish the date functionality from the hours, minutes, and running seconds hands. I think that the FiftySix Annual Calendar is a great addition to an already stellar line by VC. 

Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar (ref. 1-92-09-02-05-62) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 12.4mm | Price $26,600

The Glashutte Original PanoMaticCalender is a watch that needs to be seen to understand its true beauty. To anyone who isn’t a watch enthusiast, the dial of the PanoMaticCalender might be considered a little strange, bizarre, and difficult to read. But the dial is exactly what makes this annual calendar beautiful and unique. 

The opaline silver dial gives the watch an almost iridescent shine while the applied red gold indices and date window surround tie everything together with the beautiful red gold case. The blued seconds hand and moonphase give the PanoMaticCalender a pop of color that helps provide a cool tone to the warm reddish hue that dominates this precious metal timepiece.

Blancpain Quantième Annuel GMT (ref. 6670 1127 MMB) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 11.1mm | Price $31,000

Blancpain is a name that is synonymous with innovation within the watch world and one that cannot be easily categorized. There is a dichotomous relationship within the brand that signifies a separation between the complex: complete mastery of complications and their impact during the earliest days of dive watches. Take the former, for example, and Blancpain’s entry on today’s list. 

At 40mm, the Blancpain Quantième Annual GMT, which is part of the Villeret line, is the perfect example of a luxurious and classic timepiece by a company that also produces some of the finest dive watches in the industry. There are always two sides to a coin, and the Quantième is a watch that shows the complication-driven side of Blancpain, which has made them such masters of their craft.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar Stainless Steel (ref. pfc907-1020001-100182) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 11.1 | Price $39,475

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar is, for me, the standout timepiece on this list. The 42mm sleek and modern stainless steel case is adorned with a platinum hand-knurled bezel and comes in at a slim 11.1mm. For those thinking that it is all show and substance, you’d be wrong. 

Atop a gray guilloche dial is the obvious, what we’ve come to expect from an annual calendar watch, day, month, moonphase, but here’s the kicker, the date is a strategically placed retrograde date at the top end of the dial. This ultra cool date function means there isn’t an awkwardly placed date window on the dial breaking the Tonda’s beautiful symmetry. If money were no issue, this would be the watch for me.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Annual Calendar (ref. 25920ST) Case Diameter- 36mm | Case Thickness- 8mm | Price $40,100

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Annual Calendar is an outlier on our list due to its size. Coming in at 36mm, the Royal Oak is the smallest watch on the list, but this feature-packed mid-sized watch definitely punches up with the big boys.

With its DNA firmly rooted in the 70s Genta design, the Royal Oak utilizes its minimal dial space for the best. With its tapisserie dial, applied indices, and lowered chapter ring acting as the date indicator, the Royal Oak has a great depth to the dial that is missing with some timepieces.

The only issue I see with this timepiece is its off-center month sub-dial. Definitely not for those with OCD. But one cool feature of the month sub-dial is the months printed in red, which correlates to the 31 printed in red, indicating those months are months with 31 days.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar (ref. W1580002) Case Diameter- 45mm | Case Thickness-14.05 | Price $44,283

Coming in as the second largest watch on our list, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar is a watch that uses its large dial and the space given to its advantage. Cased in white gold and working inward with concentric circles, the Rotonde uses the outer ring to denote the months, while the inner ring denotes the days of the week. 

These circles are broken up by the always present and always classic Roman numeral hour markers. One incredibly neat design aspect of this timepiece is the use of a guilloche lower dial, acting as a beautiful background to the wonderfully symmetric dial. The Rotonde also features a well-placed big date at the top center of the dial, right above the Cartier name.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 5726/1A) Case Diameter- 40.5mm | Case Thickness- 11.3mm | Price $56,180

Patek Phillipe is the reason that this list exists. So there was never an instance when their watches would not make it. The Nautilus, next to the Royal Oak, is one of the most popular and sought-after timepieces on today’s market. 

So how do you make an already incredible watch just a bit better? Add an annual calendar and perfectly execute the layout of the date, day, month, moon phase, and, just for good measure, a 24-hour indicator.

The horizontally embossed dial on the Nautilus is a beautiful touch that graduates from blue to black at the very edges of the dial. While it has no equal, the Nautilus knows how to take an already proven design and stand out from the rest that has come before.

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar (ref. 330.025) Case Diameter- 38.5mm | Case Thickness- 9.8mm | Price $58,436

Like the Glashutte Original, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar is a German-made timepiece that is a true work of art. The level of finishing of any A. Lange & Söhne is always a sight to behold, and that has never been more true than it is with Saxonia. 

Launched in 2010 and coming in at 38.5mm cased in platinum, the Saxonia is a harmonizing design that combines the calendar features, including big date, and perfectly sews them in with the timekeeping and moonphase capabilities. The solid silver dial combined with the platinum case and solid gold moonphase disc makes this timepiece a statement piece with a lot of heft.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 5905/1A) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 14.3mm | Price $63,870 

Making its second entry on our list is the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph, a 2021 release with a flyback chronograph and an annual calendar, making this Patek a true work of art. With its all-steel construction and coming in at 42mm, this curvaceous timepiece offers the sizing of a modern watch with the wrist presence of a more luxurious timepiece. 

Its concave bezel makes this piece a joy to wear, much less intimidating than the 14.3mm case thickness might indicate. The sunburst olive green dial helps keep this Patek a little more playful and casual.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time (ref. 5326G) Case Diameter- 41mm | Case Thickness- 11.07mm | Price $78,660

Making a third and final entry on our list, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel time, like the Parmagiani Fleurier, is a stand-out piece for me. The 41mm white gold case gives the timepiece a heft that reminds you it is on your wrist. 

What makes this piece so incredibly useful and over cool is the Annual Calendar Day, which shows the date and month in two windows centered near the top of the watch, the ability to track two time zones (both local and home time), but also local and home day/night indicators within the local and home time apertures! This is just a magnificent piece that needs to be seen.

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Calibre 1300.3 Case Diameter- 38 or 40 mm | Case Thickness- 10.6mm | Price $175,802 (Est.)

F.P. Journe only produces about 900 timepieces per year, so the likelihood that you see them in the wild or up for sale is rare. That said, I think that is what makes the F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Calibre 1300.3 such a great piece. 

Not only is it an amazingly beautiful design with a platinum case, white gold dial and guilloche silver sub-dial, and retrograde date function, but it is a true Unicorn that, for the lucky individual who owns one, will likely always hold a spot in their heart.

Conclusion

I hope you all had a great time reading this article. In my research, I learned a lot on the topic of annual calendar timepieces, and I hope you did too. Until next time, thank you.

Big date watches are works of art for hardcore horology lovers. And a simple timepiece for those who want a date window that’s easy to read. They don’t do much other than present you with an enlarged date window. 

But true watch buffs see beyond the dial. It’s their complex movements with intricate parts that make the hands tick. Another thing we love on big dates is their classy, dressy appeal. In this review, you’ll be captivated by their endless allure.  

We’ll look over twenty large date watches from as cheap as $300 to over $100,000. Our exquisite pick is the Philippe Patek Grand Complications. 

Your Big Date, Your Choice

You don’t have to splurge or search far and wide to pick a “great” large or “grande” date. All you need is a taste and a budget. Once you find a design that suits you, that’s all that matters. It doesn’t matter if it’s quartz or mechanical. 

The big date is simply a watch with a large date window. The only exception is that you may have to spend upwards of $800 to find one with an automatic or winding movement. 

About The Big Date Complication

Hold up! Big dates were a thing before Rolex shipped out those date-magnifying cyclops lenses. They still have this feature in their date watches – except for the Deepsea. That’s not our focus for today, but those engineered to have large dates, not ones under a magnifying glass. 

Original big date wristwatches had two large date windows. They were introduced by one of our favorite manufacturers, A. Lange & Sohne, the german watchmaker, in the 40s.

The First Date Window by a GP-Defunct Company

About a decade before, Mimo, owners of Girard Perregaux, released the first date watch (the Mimo-Meter) in 1930. At the time, it was such an essential function that its tagline was “the watch that sells itself.” 

Admittedly, it could have been a better look compared to today’s standard, but it was a groundbreaking feat nonetheless. 

The Big Entry

Helvetia introduced the first prototype of a true big date complication when they released a watch with two legible date windows. Unlike the Mimo-Meter, the windows were also more prominent than the indexes. The watch was powered by a Helvetia caliber 75A housed in a familiar tonneau-shaped case. 

But the Helvetia date complication needed to be fixed. It had a thing for running over the last day of the month to the 39th. And then switch to zero unless you manually change it. But they corrected this with a pusher in the crown. 

Enter a few years, many brands, including Mimo and GP, jumped on the idea of the big date. And they used Helvetia’s caliber 75A. 

The Purpose of Big Date Watches

A big date watch serves one functional purpose – to easily read dates on the dial. If that’s why you’re here, consider your needs met. Today, though, millennials and Gen Z folks would shrug it off as their top reason because smartphones and smartwatches are now a thing.

But if you’re intentional about the construction, you’d also get your taste of some of the most complicated models. Some big date watch movements carry the peripheral, overlapping, disc-on-disc, and unconventional stacked date discs.

Top 20 Big Date Watches for Every Man and Woman

Without wasting time, I’ll hook you up with the best big date watches in ascending order. Let’s go from entry-level to elite class. 

1. Seiko SPC153

Starts from approximately $150

There are two ways around this watch: either you roll your eyes in, or they light up as you sight the price tag. If it’s the latter, you’re in for a treat. The Seiko SPC153 is a classic and reliable timepiece, actually a steal. But that’s not a surprise coming from Seiko. 

The SPC153 is a stylish and sporty big date chronograph that’s powered by an in-house quartz movement. This Japanese budget watch is 42mm across and 12mm thick, with a masculine appeal. 

At the heart of this watch is the Seiko caliber ZT04. The battery-powered movement has a well-contrasting date window below 12 o’clock. The white date window pops on the black background of the main dial and subdials.

It makes it easy to read the date even though it’s a smaller font than the main indexes. It’s a nice dress watch and a budget option to add a dressy and rugged date window watch to your collection.  

2. Spinnaker Hull Chronograph

Starts from approximately $235

The Hull Chronograph is a bold vintage watch with a bulky 42mm frame. If bold and classy is your style, you’d confidently rock this boxy 15mm thick Spinnaker Hull. 

It features a genuine 22mm leather strap with durable stitching to the booth. In addition, you can improve the Hull’s versatility with add-on straps in fabric, rubber, and nylon in different variations. 

The dial is strikingly remarkable for its price. It’s a sandwich dial with a rug-like finish, the big date at 12 o’clock, and a noticeably bright lume. All of these are packed into a tall cushion-shaped solid back stainless steel case with an attractive polished tachymeter scale bezel.

The SP5068-01 chrono is fascinating when you consider how its deeply-recessed date and dial remain visible at angles despite having a double-domed crystal. 

However, the mineral lens is inferior compared to sapphire, although it’s scratch-resistant – understandable at its price point and craftsmanship level. What makes this beauty so affordable is probably its Japan VK73 Meca-quartz movement. 

Overall, the Spinnaker Hull chronograph is a feature-packed big date chronograph and a top choice if you are okay with quartz. 

3. Junkers Big Date (ref. 6640-1)

Here’s an entry for my classy, simple, and dressy watch guys. Junkers, an obscure German watch brand, offers a piece to drool over and for a good price. Sporting a white corrugated sheet dial with calligraphic Arabic numerals and a sizeable date window riding down north, the model Date 6640-1 would go with you for days. 

It’s an iconic dial that pays homage to the corrugated sheet body of the first all-metal airplane – Junkers J1. Not to mention it’s only 42mm and weighs under 70 grams, so you can rock this baby carefree. 

Add its two time zone function is a great everyday companion. It has a separately adjustable 12-hour time zone dial at 6 o’clock you can control with one pusher. The Junkers 6640-1 also runs a battery-powered Ronda 6203. B quartz movement. Unlike most dual-time complications, its dual-time is easy to read and operate for first-time owners. 

4. Certina DS-1 Big Date (ref. C029.426.11.041.00)

Starts from approximately $932

The Certina DS-1 is a fresh turn from what you’ve seen in this review. It boasts a colorful and numberless dial that allows the big date to shine. 

The dial is a shade of blue and black, with swordlike hands and markers reminiscent of the black panther mask. This combination of deep colors contrasts with the plain white big date window. 

Located at 6 o’clock, the date is the only number on the dial and is considerably bigger than the hour marker. Without question, its double tens date is easy to read. And easy on the wrists.

It’s 41mm and less than 12mm thick, giving it a sleek, minimalist profile. The Certina DS-1 uses a Swiss-made Powermatic 80 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve.

Furthermore, its exhibition-style case back gives true big date watch lovers a thing to show to friends and family when they go on about the mechanism. All in all, the Certina DS-1 is a great beginner mechanical big-date watch to buy on a budget.

5. Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date (ref. AL-372NB4S6)

Starts from approximately $1,100

This pilot watch combines a sporty, toolsy look with a touch of elegance. The bold 44mm diameter, 13mm tall stainless steel case with chrono pushers appears to be an instrument watch. 

But a closer look at the details will make you think twice. The Startimer, for one, has a finely brushed and polished case in addition to polished hands, pushers, and a grandiose crown. 

The navy blue dial synchronizes with the counters, indexes, hands, and the large date at 6 o’clock. Couple these with a calf leather strap, and you can’t help but have a gentleman’s watch. 

The Alpina Startimer has precision considered one-of-a-kind for a pilot watch. Well, actually, it uses a quartz AL–372 movement that lasts for four years. Get the Alpina for a stylish big date and a functional pilot watch in your collection. 

6. Mido Baroncelli Big Date (ref. M027.426.36.018.00)

Starts from approximately $1,100

Mido has one of the larger collections of large date display watches. But this rose-gold-plated Baroncelli is the model that takes the cake. 

It’s an embodiment of simplicity and luxury. The Baroncelli is a 40mm round case mechanical watch with a cow leather strap that’s only 10.4mm thick. That alone shows extra comfort even before it adorns your wrist. 

The Baroncelli’s plain white dial has a sunray finish that has an interesting play on light. Its rose gold plated hands and stick hour markers give the watch a refreshing pop of luxury. 

The Baroncelli runs on a powerful Mido caliber 80 (based on ETA C07.651) movement as icing on the cake. It’s presumably named after its astounding 80-hour power reserve. The Mido Baroncelli is easily the finest dressy big date with a perfect balance of form and function. 

7. Longines Master Collection Big Date (ref. L2.648.4.78.6)

Starts from around $2,000

The Longines stays on the trajectory we’ve come so far. It’s easy on the eye and classy. It’s your typical Arabic numeral dial in a stainless steel case and bracelet. The only difference is it introduces you to what luxury watches feel like. 

For one, the indexes are stylishly written, like calligraphy or animation. And it sports the rare feuille or “leaf” hand design seen in iconic watches like the Mont Blanc Star Legacy and H.Moser & Cie Endeavor watches. 

The Master Big Date also has a guilloche finish dial, which you only see in top-tier watches. If you need to familiarize yourself with the term, it’s a decorative pattern that resembles thorns or pyramids. Well, that’s the thing about artful timepieces: you get to picture them in your reality. 

Generally, this Longines facilitates clean and easy yet stylish timekeeping. The 12-hour format, 60-minute inner bezel, luminous hands, and oversized date paint the picture. If you’re looking for an affordable big date model from a famous brand, consider the Longines Master.    

8. Breitling Galactic 41 Big Date (ref. A49350)

Starts from approximately $4,280

The Breitling Galactic is for those who genuinely appreciate style and function. It’s galactic or sci-fi-themed, like a device on a spaceship. But it’s practically a simple and user-friendly design. 

First off, the Galactic 41 has a solid 41mm stainless steel case with bold bezel engravings. It’s solidly built from the case back to the protective rim around the crown. 

Secondly, the blue dial is almost plain but sophisticated. The dial has oversized black-and-white stick hour markers and hands for easy reading. And, of course, a large date at 3 o’clock.

As you probably can tell, this watch is clearly built like a tank. A quick look at the bracelet’s build alone reveals that. But even better, it has strap varieties in leather and rubber to one down the look.

A COSC-certified Breitling caliber B49 powers the Galactic 41. That’s 42 hours of power reserve and 300 meters of water resistance. You’ll appreciate the Galactic 41 Big Date for its versatility. It’s perfect for a night out in a suit but also looks terrific with casual attire. 

9. Omega De Ville X2 Big Date (ref. 7813.30.39)

Starts from approximately $4,030

Ever thought of getting an avant-garde timepiece that’s also practical? Look no further than the Omega De Ville X2 Big Date. 

The De Ville is the first watch Omega collection watch equipped with a co-axial escapement. This X2 Big Date houses a modern caliber 2610 with a 48-hour power reserve and tourbillon for greater accuracy. 

But that’s enough beauty to get movement fans going. Now let’s talk about its aesthetic face and strap. Its square-shaped stainless steel case will stand out in the crowd. And it’s only 35mm, which is ironic because it packs a punch considering its movement and large font dial.

Speaking of which, the dial is a classic painting in a frame. The indices have an ingenious combo of a dagger and Roman/Arabic numerals. You’ll also see this number concept in the date window, which is impressive. 

More impressive is how these indices are enlarged out of proportion to its 35mm case. This makes the De Ville X2 an easy watch to read despite being extremely dressy. However, it doesn’t have a lume.    

Regardless, it’s a precision big date dress watch from a respected watchmaker and a respectable collection. 

10. Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec BigDate (ref. 00.10628.13.53.01)

Starts from about $8,600

The tenth big date watch on our list offers some complications you’d appreciate if simple isn’t your vibe. One of the unique complications is its big date aperture at the 11 o’clock position. The window is solid-framed, and the date even has a deeper black font than most grande date models.

In addition, the EvoTec has a small date window at 6 o’clock, which declutters the dial. This makes it even easier to read. Not to mention, the Patravi EvoTec is super-comfortable and dressy.

It sports a blue 39mm stainless case that accentuates the blue dial and blue calfskin strap. And it’s somewhat thick at 13mm, so it’ll also pass for casual wear. It houses an automatic movement with 55 hours of power reserve in its transparent case back.

11. IWC Big Pilot Big Date “150 Years” (ref. IW510504)

Starts from about $14,000

Let’s take a break from sophistication to reintroduce a clean and uncomplicated design – the limited-edition IWC Big Pilot 150 Years. 

It’s a simple but prestigious big date watch. As its name implies, it’s an homage to IWC’s 150th year of watchmaking in 2018. And only 100 pieces of these babies are available (IWC produced 150 pieces, as they should have initially). 

What makes the Big Pilot Date so special? Start with a hand-wound IWC caliber 59235. It’s intriguing that a manual movement powers the double-date display and has an eight-day power reserve.

Now that you know it’s technically capable, we’ll briefly tour its plain white gloss-finished face. The dial is vibrant with a play of Arabic numerals and stick indexes, and blue hour hands.

Top that off with alligator skin leather with metal pins for a bold look. And it’s housed in a massive 46.5mm stainless case. So while this may sound like a perfect watch on paper, the IWC 150 Big Pilot 150 Years would wear more comfortably by tall wearers.

12. Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moon Phase (ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B)

Starts from approximately $14,500

The GP Vintage 1945 is a watch with notes of class, artistry, and masterful engineering; it’s an appealing model for vintage and stylish watch lovers.

The Girard Perregaux Vintage XXL is one of the best picks for the case and large date design. First off, it has a 39mm convex stainless steel case. This means it’s curved at every angle to give a 3D-like look, which is difficult even for a luxury brand.  

The convex profile is a challenging engineering accomplishment only seen in elite luxury brands like Vacheron Constantin. Its polished stainless steel case houses a stunning silver dial with a perfect play on light that gives it a darker shade. 

Under the sapphire crystal are Arabic numeral indexes, a moon phase indicator at the door (6 o’clock), and a grand date below the roof (12 o’clock) of the dial. 

There’s more to GP’s Vintage 1945 big date than meets the eye (for most watch buyers). Its COSC-certified GP03300 caliber delivers unparted date windows on the same plane. This “borderless” design also achieves clear tracks for its railway minute markers. 

Any collector or watch enthusiast will gladly pay 20 grand for the level of attention to detail and durability of the Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL. It’s not shy of daily use and will pass for a regalia timepiece. Furthermore, it will hold its value if you’re a shelf collector. 

13. Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-02-01-04)

Starts from approximately $8,000

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date is a steal-buy for a taste of luxury engineering and embellishment. The first pass you get is into the world of convex lenses and dials.

That’s the same engineering in the 15k GP Vintage 45′ – we reviewed previously – or a 50k Vacheron Constantin Patrimony. Its domed silver dial is unmistakable under the Sixties Panorama’s ultra-slim case and curved sapphire crystal lens.  

Gold-plated hour incisions and hands and four Arabic numerals dissect this Sixties Panorama into four cardinal points. While that’s aesthetically pleasing, it’s the caliber 39-47 and its big date function that births this model’s name. 

The big date changes the date after 24 hours in a cinematic crossover – panorama. Its display discs at 6 o’clock are two concentric plates on the same plane. They achieve the smooth transition that Glashütte calls “panorama.” 

14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Grande Date (ref. 5050 12B30 B52A)

Starts from around $18,500 

Blancpain, one of the oldest luxury watchmakers, offers the tanking Fifty Fathoms in a grande date display. Its deep black dial and titanium steel case paired with the sail cloth strap give off a bold image.

In addition, the Super-LumiNova coating on the black background makes it even easier to read in low light.  Trust the Fifty Fathoms to give you the confidence of a tool or dive watch with its thick 43mm titanium case.

It has a unidirectional bezel and up to 300 meters of water resistance. This model features a grande date automatic caliber 6918B. It’s a nice upgrade from the tiny date window of the normal version – about twice the size of the original. 

It makes the $3k price bump worth it if you want the Fifty Fathoms with a large date. It holds value well on the resale market, so it’s also a gratifying investment watch.

15. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Big Date (ref. 49140/423A-8886)

Starts from approximately $20,000

The VC Overseas is a small but intense chronograph with exceptional attention to detail – can’t expect less from a member of the “Holy Trinity.”  

This well-polished chronograph houses a toned black dial with detailed designs in a VC cross-shaped bezel. It has Roman numeral indexes on every hour except the cardinal points. 

The counters flesh out the face as they intertwine with 10th and 2nd-hour markers with minute trackers and dagger hands that look like ties: a small second counter, a 12-hour timer at 9, and a 30-minute counter at 3. 

Finally, the grande date window crowns the dial at 12 thanks to the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1137. It has 40 hours of power reserve and an anti-shock system. 

The Overseas is a luxury sports watch to dress up or down in grand style. Although it can take a beating, it’s not exactly cut out for a tool watch. 

16. Cartier Tortue Large Date Small Seconds (ref. CRW1556233)

Starts from approximately $30,000

Cartier, the world-renowned jeweler of over 170 years, has something in store for historical watch buffs. Its tonneau shape is one of the closest designs to the real thing – The MimoMeter – back in the ’30s. 

The Tortue is one of the rarest big date watches. And its history goes way back to 1912 when Louis Cartier designed it, inspired by the shape of a tortoise. It’s a similar concept to the Cartier Tank. 

It’s a masterful creation and an embodiment of rare luxury. The Tortue Large Date Small Seconds is a self-explanatory design but finer when you look in detail. Start with a luxurious real estate of 18K white gold case with a closed back.  

Moving to the dial, you get a matte silver sheet inside a 38mm fence. It’s embellished with concentric Roman numeral hour indexes and a small second window door at 6.

The big date is square and center at 12. And you get to carry this work of art around in a reptile strap. The Cartier Tortue CRW1556233 is a great fit for professionals in finance, law, or high-class society. 

17. H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD (ref. 3808-1201)

Starts from approximately $35,000

The Pioneer is an ultra-slim 43mm dress big date watch on steroids! The engineering, complications, and aesthetics are detailed to the highest standard. A funky blue fume dial with a sunburst plays light and color tricks in a calm display. It’s a clutter-free display – the stick and dot indexes only indicate ten-minute intervals. 

Actually, the dots are its bezel numbers, so you can imagine how immaculate the MD is. These and the skeleton dagger hands light up even in pitch darkness. 

The world-class watchmaker blows our minds with an HMC 808 movement engine (168-hour reserve). It has a month and date display window at 3, a small seconds window at 6, and a power reserve indicator at 9. 

What’s impressive is how these complications make the HMC Pioneer MD easier to read and adjust. 

This watch would be a great addition to any collection if you can afford it. It can be formal only, casual, or even for adventure. Not to mention, it’s a limited edition model from a renowned brand, so you’re also looking at a great investment watch. 

18. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (ref. 191.039)

Starts from approximately $40,000

With the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, we’ll stray from the conventional. It’s practically a date watch than one for timekeeping. 

A. Lange & Sohne tagged it the “inimitable” dial because of its asymmetric – off-balance – design. Its silver dial is flush with a 38.5mm white gold casing. There’s a 12-hour window in Roman numerals on the left gracefully intertwined with a seconds window below. 

The large date display sits alone in the top-right as the most legible writing on the dial. And for this, we can give credit to L121.1 in-house caliber. 

Knowing how beautiful it is, the brand displays it through its see-through sapphire crystal case back. It’s manually wound, has a 72-hour power reserve, and offers instantaneous date change at midnight.  

The Lange 1 is undeniably one of the most iconic modern watches. It’s a great buy if you want a visible high-end movement with a unique, gorgeous dial and precious metal finish.   

19. Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet Large Date Tourbillon (ref. 26009BC.OO.D002CR.01)

Starts from around $70,000

For our second entry from the “Holy Trinity,” we introduce the Edward Piguet Large Date. It’s a masterpiece of horology with a renowned price tag that limits it only to the elite and hardcore watch buffs. 

Who else can appreciate horology enough to pay over 50 grand for a sophisticated big date movement? The Eduard Piguet Large Date has a partial skeleton dial with Roman numeral markers, a tourbillon, and a large date window on a 34mm case.

They complement the dark rhodium-finished 18k white gold case and an alligator strap to add a touch of class. However, the true champion is its tourbillon movement with complications of extreme difficulty that you can even see through the case back. It’s manually wound with up to 72 hours of power reserve.

AP gives you a glimpse of Swiss engineering perfection in the dial and case back. It’s undeniably a statement piece for special occasions but is durable enough for casual wear if you can pull it off.

20. Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5236P)

Starts from around $140,000

What better way than to end our list with the final member of the “Holy Trinity”? The Patek Philippe Grand Complications delivers masterfully on every note of complication, readability, and choice of materials. 

With a 41mm platinum case, we have Patek Philippe’s biggest Perpetual date model. The price is readily justifiable considering the special features of its caliber 31-260 PS QL, like hand-woven engineering, mechanism, and a moon phase. 

The clear winner, though, is the Grand Complications big date. It displays the day, date, and month in the same aperture, which is truly special. But the gradient blue satin-finished dial provides an aesthetic touch that turns heads.

Flip it over, and you’ll still have the movement to yourself through the open case back. The Philippe Patek Grand Complications is finally cased in platinum and has an alligator strap to complete the look. 

Conclusion

Big date watches are perfect for functionality, style, and precision. Each timepiece caters to watch enthusiasts’ unique needs and preferences, with features like high-quality materials, intricate designs, and precise timekeeping mechanisms. 

From sporty and casual to elegant and formal, these timepieces offer versatility and sophistication. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, you’ll find an affordable and functional model that catches your eye.

The venerable and humble Valjoux 7750 is the widespread beating heart of many self-winding-chronograph watches. As a result of groundbreaking engineering, it has proven to be an immortal movement that is easy to service, reliable, accurate, universally sized, heavily modifiable, and even cloned by movement manufacturer Sellita to make the SW-500 (to meet the demand for non-ETA exclusive watchmakers).

The 7750 is the world’s most popular self-winding-chronograph movement, still very relevant today under the arm of ETA; the Valjoux 7750 has been the horological lifeblood of many brands since before and after the Quartz crisis – thus enabling a formidable comeback from the mechanical watch industry due to its allure as an affordable well-designed platform that allowed for many complications and levels of finishing to be offered by its adopters. We are excited to discuss 15 of the best Valjoux 7750 watches that you can get your hands on today.

About The Valjoux 7750

The race from many tycoons in the watch industry to invent the first self-winding chronograph made 1969 a revolutionary year for watchmaking. The Calibre-11 was the first to achieve this status, a manifestation of a collaboration between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and chronograph specialist Dépraz & Co., followed by Seiko with the 6139 and Zenith with the over-engineered and rather excellent El Primero; all simultaneous releases within the year. 

The age of the self-winding chronograph had begun, and Valjoux took notice, seeking to offer such technology in vast numbers. The manual-wind Valjoux 7733 was the foundation; a young Edmon Capt was tasked with turning it into a self-winding chronograph.

With a tight development timeline, the Valjoux 7750 would be the first movement to have its workings simulated on a computer and would go on sale in 1973 amidst the Quartz crisis. It proved popular, selling in 6-figure numbers but would soon be impacted by rapidly dying sales due to the Quartz and digital watch market craze – at its peak in 1975. 

Similar to the fate of the El Primero, Valjoux’s senior management ordered the destruction of machinery, drawings, and tooling for the 7750 – an order which Edmon Capt chose to disobey and was thereby able to find means of protecting his creation for a brighter, longer future. 

Following Valjoux’s consolidation by ETA in the 80s, mechanical watches finally saw a revival of interest. This allowed for the return of the 7750, which required little to no reworking since its inception. Affordable, serviceable, reliable, universally sized, and modifiable, it became the popular choice for many brands in recovery, dawning on a renaissance of mechanical watchmaking.  

The Valjoux 7750 movement architecture utilized levers and an oblong-shaped cam which was easier to mass-manufacture than its column wheel-operated cousins. It also used a unidirectional winding rotor that allowed for faster winding and no dead zone in rotor movement, with the winding system always engaged. 

Its notorious quirk was its rotor wobble. Here we have an industrial movement at 7.9mm thick, with a self-winding chronograph, hacking seconds, compatible with a date and day wheel, available and affordable for many watch manufacturers to adopt rather than an engineer on their own at great expense.

/ETA also offered more complicated versions of the 7750, like the 7751, which had a full calendar and moon-phase display, and a 7753 with the sub-dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than a vertical layout. 

Due to its modifying potential, some movement specialists chose to incorporate a column wheel mechanism, which proved less expensive than acquiring a movement developed to incorporate one. IWC also took a liking to the movement, and Kurt Klaus used it as a base for what would become the legendary Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in 1985. 

Its success with IWC didn’t end, as Richard Habring followed suit by creating a split-seconds chronograph out of the 7750 that would eventually be turned into the 125th anniversary Destriero Scafusia. This grand complication combined a split-seconds-chronograph, flying tourbillion, and minute repeater. 

ETA also went on to devise its own version of a column wheel controlled 7550, which was the Longines Caliber-L688, which Omega later used as its base for the Co-Axial Caliber-3300. All of this is a testament to the 7750’s wide and favored adoption to date.

The Best Valjoux 7750 Watches

Tissot PRX Chronograph (ref. T137.427.11.041.00) (Valjoux A05.H31, based on the Valjoux 7753)

Under the current premise that the watch world is notoriously hyped for integrated bracelet luxury sports watches, Tissot has been widely recognized for positioning its PRX lineup as a budget-friendly alternative. Its cohesive case and bracelet design, adding to that a lineage dating back to the original era in the 70s, has made the PRX the prime choice for watch enthusiasts wanting to enjoy high horology levels of design. 

In 2022, Tissot was able to offer the PRX Chronograph with the proven Valjoux 7753 seen through its display caseback, with a 60hr power reserve, the classic 3, 6, and 9 o’clock chronograph layout, a date between 4 and 5 o’clock, 100m water resistance and a 2-year warranty. 

Available in 3 sunburst dial variations blue, white with blue subdials, and white with black subdials and gilt indices/hands. Priced at $1,825 on a quick-release interchangeable steel bracelet.

Sized at 42mm in diameter and 14.5 millimeters thick, with an overall brushed finish and polishing on its case flanks, sloping bezel, pushers, and crown; and the availability of panda-esque Royal Oak Chronograph inspired dial configurations to make this a very stylish and wearable sports watch, in addition to its great value offering.

Omega Speedmaster Date 40 (ref. 3210.50.00) (Omega Caliber 1164, based on the Valjoux 7750)

For those that desire the storied heritage of the greatest journey of mankind, and a budget-friendly smaller Moonwatch, with self-winding, a date complication, and most importantly, 100m of water resistance, look no further than this watch.

The Speedmaster Date 40 is an offering that punches hard above its weight class, housing the Chronometer Certified Caliber 1164 based on the 7750 with a 44hr power reserve. 40mm in diameter and 15.2mm thick, the Speedmaster Date 40 lends a few design elements of the Speedmaster Professional (1861).

These include an identically-finished lyre lug case profile and bracelet design, a tachymeter bezel that comes in black anodized aluminum, and a double-finished black dial with a metallic grain at the center. Alongside these are appliqué indices and the Omega logo, a vertical subdial layout as a result of its 7750 movement architecture, and a frame around the date window.

This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of $3,500. It is half the price of the current Speedmaster Professional and, therefore, an incredible value alternative due to its 7750-based caliber, making it better sized for smaller wrists, with added functionality to boot.

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H (ref. H38429730) (Hamilton H-51 movement based on the ETA/Valjoux caliber 7753)

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H is a modern remaster of the original 1968 model, with promising potential to retain the elegance of its predecessors and none of the drawbacks associated with wearing a vintage piece. As of 2021, the Intra-Matic Chronograph received further refinement, now offered in 40mm with a manual-wind movement allowing for a marginally slimmer case (0.3mm) than its automatic counterpart. 

By doing away with the hand-wound movement, this model offers further interaction and feeling for the vintage enthusiast it targets. This also allows it to have a flatter case back and less clearance between the dial and the domed sapphire, leaning onto a much cleaner overall aesthetic.

The Intra-Matic uses the 7753 for a simple classic dual subdial layout with no date. It comes in two vintage-inspired panda-dial variants; a plain black dial with off-white subdials or an off-white dial with black subdials and faux patina lume on its hands and indexes. 

With a two-year warranty, 100m water resistance, and a 60hr power reserve, priced at $2,045 on a leather ($2,095 on a Milanese bracelet), this is a truly authentic vintage chronograph experience to be enjoyed at an affordable price point, with modern-day conveniences.

Breitling Navitimer (ref. A2332212/C586) (Breitling B23 movement, based on the Valjoux 7753)

Following the post-war commercial aviation boom, the Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association pressured Brietling to create the Navitimer in 1952, now a monumental model in its lineup. With the help of the then-revolutionary slide rule bezel, the Navitimer became the first flight calculator, calibrated for all necessary flight calculations, such as ground speed, airspeed, drift, rate of climb, and fuel consumption. Not limited to the sky, it could also convert miles to kilometers, Fahrenheit to Celsius, or dollars to euros.

The Navitimer (ref. A2332212/C586) produced between 2003-2011, with a practical 41.8mm diameter and 14.6mm case, used the 7753 as a base for its 42hr COSC-Certified Movement. This model was offered in a deep navy blue, as well as black or white dial variations with the typical 3 subdial layout thanks to the architecture of the 7753, and a date complication between 4 and 5 o’clock. 

It was originally priced at $9,000 on a bracelet and is currently up to $6,000 on the secondary market. Its availability is a true testament to the vast takeover of the 7750/7753 base. As the Navitimer in 1969 was one of the first watches to house an automatic chronograph caliber, it needed to come full circle to adopt the Valjoux for the sake of its own survival.

Tissot Heritage 1973 (ref. T124.427.16.051.00) (A05.H31 movement based on the Valjoux 7753)

During the 70s, Tissot featured as a sponsor in F1, with Swiss ambassador and Brabham driver Lorris Kessel. Back then, he wore the Navigator 1973, a watch designed during the golden age of motorsport, when racing drivers needed timing instruments on their wrists. 

In 2019, Tissot celebrated its racing history with the revival of the Navigator, releasing the Heritage 1973, a modern interpretation of the original, limited to 1,973 pieces. Following this, they released a second iteration in 2021 as a mainstay in the collection, offered in 3 color variants, those being white, blue, or black.

Aesthetically belonging to the exclusive club of the 70s-inspired vintage racing chronographs, it sports a modern-sized 43mm cushion-shaped case with satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels, mushroom-style pushers, and a perforated leather strap (invented by Tissot in 1975). 

The dial is also changed from the original, now with the sub-dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock rather than a vertical layout, and a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, thanks to the layout of the 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback) with a 60hr power reserve.

Carried forward from the original is the panda color dial configuration, with pops of 70s orange, and exclusive to the newest model, a minor touch of bright blue on the 30-minute elapsed counter between 0 and 5. It has a domed sapphire crystal, unlike the acrylic of the original. Priced at $2,175, with a two-year warranty and 100m water resistance, the Heritage-1973 has all the hallmarks of a great vintage racing watch revival.

IWC Pilot Top Gun (ref. IW3891-01) (IWC Caliber 69380, based on The Valjoux 7750)

IWC was an early pioneer in developing timekeeping instruments that catered to the needs of aviators. Its first Pilots Chronographs, often referred to as the ‘Flieger Chronographs’ were launched in 1988, including a self-winding model that housed a caliber based on the 7750. Decades later, still proving to be up to the task.

The Top Gun collection has been an integral part of IWC’s Pilot watch lineup since 2007, flexing its usage of advanced materials and giving them a distinctive tactical look and feel. 

To celebrate its close association with naval aviation, in 2019, we saw the release of the IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun IW3891-01, still using a heavily modified column wheel chronograph movement based on the 7750 and still adopting the 3 vertical subdial layouts and a day/date window at 3 o’clock, that the model is famous for.

This model features a 44.5mm diameter black ceramic case on a black textile strap, a matching matte black dial with concentric grooves visible on the subdials, a matte black hour and minute hands, and a black day & date window. It has contrasting white Arabic indices, markings, lume, and chronograph seconds hand, with a pop of red on the running second’s hand. 

Attached to the case are brushed steel pushers and a screw-in-crown allowing for 60m of water resistance. Priced at $8,950, this watch is a proven icon with looks ready for any dogfight.

TAG Heuer Carrera (ref. CBK2110.BA0715) (Caliber 16, based on the Valjoux 7750)

The Carrera is easily one of the most iconic racing chronographs to date, with a rich and storied history dating back to the 60s and 70s when Heuer was at the helm of racing timekeeping instruments. Post Quartz crisis, the Carrera was brought back by Tag Heuer in 1996, a mainstay in their collection since 2006, and it adopted the Caliber 16 (42hr power reserve) based on the 7750. 

Unlike the original Carrera that featured the first self-winding chronograph movement (Calibre 11), it would now adopt 3 vertical subdials with a date window at 3 o’clock as a result of its movement based on the 7750 (visible through a transparent caseback), with a 42-hour power reserve.

The CBK2110.BA0715 features a matte black dial with polished hands, indexes, a frame around the date window, and an applied Tag Heuer logo. This particular reference had its own time in the spotlight, worn by Kevin Bacon in the movie ‘You Should Have Left (2020)’.

Not owing too much to its racing history, it leans more towards elegance than sportiness, striking a good balance for daily wear with its high finish (41mm) case and bracelet and 100m water resistance. This model is currently discontinued and had an original retail price of $4,600. Secondary market prices can be found up to approximately $4000, depending on the condition.

Longines Master Collection Complete Calendar Chronograph (ref. L2.773.4.78.5) (Caliber L687.2 based on the Valjoux 7751)

The Master Collection, launched in 2005, pays tribute to Longines’ rich heritage in traditional and classical watchmaking. The halo model of the collection, the Complete Calendar Chronograph Moonphase, offers high complication at a value focussed price point. 

This is done with the help of a movement based on the 7751(visible through its transparent caseback, with a 48hr power reserve), a multifunctional caliber based on the 7750. Adding complications such as a full moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, a central pointer date hand pointing at the date on the outer periphery of the dial, day of the week and month windows at 12 o’clock, and a 24-hour hand at 9 o’clock.

It features a classic high-polish 40mm case with a rounded bezel and soft lines, overall contributing to a dressier feel and doing well to mask its high complication caliber. It has ‘old world’ looking pushers and a stamped crown. The dial is clean and uncluttered in silver barleycorn, with a stamped Clous de Paris style guilloché on the main level and concentric grooves on the subdials.

It has blued legible hands and vintage-style Arabic numerals printed well enough to look applied. Priced at $3,550 on a brown alligator strap with a luxurious twin trigger deployant clasp. For those seeking a complication dress watch on a budget, Longines is well-calibrated to deliver high sophistication and refinement.

Hublot Big Bang (ref. 301.SX.130.RX) (Caliber HUB4100, based on the Valjoux 7753)

The launch of the Big Bang in 2005 marked the rebirth of Hublot under Jean-Claude Bivers’ leadership. With the 7753-based 42hr power reserve workhorse movement (visible through its transparent caseback), and quite a bit of hype (or incredible marketing), it could compete with the greats from which it took inspiration. 

Given the high horology inspiration, and Art of Fusion Concept, the Big Bang appears to have all the necessary hallmarks of a niche high-end timepiece while having a strikingly modern, sporty, and racy design language.

The 301.SX.130.RX has a 44mm case with contrasting satin-brushed and polished surfaces. It sports a sandwich construction with composite inserts at the sides to give an architectural look. Polished finishing continues on the crown and pushers with rubber outboard.

Rubber is also used for the strap, Hublot being the early pioneer of using the sporty material on a luxury sports watch. Its bezel, inspired by the porthole of a submarine, is satin and highly polished with distinctive Hublot H-sectioned screws.

To complete its look, we have a matte black dial with polished appliqué indices and hands (lumed) and a contrasting red chronograph seconds hand, minute/seconds track, and subdial track for the minutes and hours. It retains the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock layout of the 7753 with a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Priced at $12,900 retail, and approximately $8,500 pre-owned, it is a 100m waterproof luxury sports watch that still compares well against its highly-praised cousins who might not share the same specifications, price point, or sporty design.

Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope (ref. 27/4008.02) (J880.2 movement based on the Valjoux 7750)

The German watchmaker, Junghans, is popularly known for its commitment and genuine history with the Bauhaus design language. An artistic ideology that form follows function. Max Bill, a Swiss artist and former student of Bauhaus in Dessau 1927-1929, was tasked by Junghans to create a collection of watches in 1961 of Bauhaus influence, following the great success of its Max Bill kitchen clock.

The Design of the Max Bill Chronoscope carries forward its design language from the 60s as a modern offering, housing a movement based on the 7750 with a 42hr power reserve. Its 40mm almost pebble-shaped steel case is coated in matte anthracite PVD, has short lugs (which makes it very wearable), uses piston-style pushers, and has a thin bezel offering a generous view of its matte white dial.

It ditches the running seconds for just two vertically aligned subdials for symmetry. Grey is used for the minute/seconds track and subdials markings, with black environmentally friendly lumed Arabic numerals that match the font of Max Bill’s original kitchen clock. We also have matte black hands, with the hours and minutes being curved and lumed.

At 3 o’clock are two beveled apertures for the day and date, and for symmetry at 9 o’clock, its name is inscribed on the dial. Another compliment to its dial and case design is the usage of a domed sapphire. Priced at $2095, unhindered by any ornamentation, it is a minimalist, functional, and legible chronograph that stands on its own in the market.

Sinn 103 St Sa (ref. 103.061) (Valjoux 7750)

German tool-watchmaker Sinn is a fan favorite for its profound dedication to making pilots watches. Founder Helmut Sinn himself was a former World War II pilot and used his experience in aviation to manufacture clocks and pilot’s chronographs.

The Sinn 103 Pilots Chronograph carries its design from the golden age of pilot watches in the 60s when the original 103 saw its release. With the dawn of the Quartz Crisis, this humble period would induce harmony among watchmakers, who would share or purchase components from each other.

Hence, this is why the original 103 shares the same case and many components with the original LeCoultre, Brequet, Mathey-Tissot, and Breguet models from the era. The Sinn 103 as we know it today was remastered in 1993, with an automatic chronograph caliber based on the robust 7750 (48 hours power reserve).

The Sinn 103 St Sa has a high polish 41mm case with a thickness of 17.2mm. It does well to mask its thickness with its sloping lugs and rounded display case back. Using the 7750 vertical 3 subdial layout and a day/date window at 3 o’clock, it has a lumed dial in solid black with contrasting white Arabic numerals, markings, and hands (syringe style for the minutes and hours).

Complementing the dial is a domed ‘sapphire crystal’ (unlike on standard 103 models). It has attractive screw-in pushers like those found on a Daytona and a ratcheting anodized black unidirectional diving bezel with a triangular loom pip at 0.

One of the most notable features of this model as a chronograph is its impeccable water resistance of 200m. Priced at approximately $2,700 on a solid end-link bracelet, this is a proven feature-packed, legible, and timeless design built like a tank for the cockpit.

Damasko DC56 Black (Valjoux 7750 Elaboré)

Damasko, formed in 1994, is a relatively young German tool-watch manufacturer with a history of developing high-performance materials and technology for the aviation industry and hardened watchcases for Sinn until 2002. 

Catered to innovating in-house with new materials and processes, its main focus is to be affordable while engineering the toughest tool-watches on the market. A testament to its capabilities, its DC56 would go on to being the official watch of German Eurofighter Pilots since 2007.

The DC56 Black is simply put, a blacked out version of the standard model. It has a Black Damest-Coated, Ice-hardened steel case, 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of only 13.8mm; such tight tolerances are difficult to find from a brawn tool-watch housing the tall 7750 caliber (48hr-power-reserve). 

Attached to its muscular profiled case are matching black pushers with a crown guard perfectly integrating to SR71Blackits sharp lugs. It has a 7750 layout matte black dial with contrasting white hands, Arabic numerals, date/date display, and generous usage of lume on the hands and numerals, making for impeccable legibility.

To match perfectly with its case and dial, it comes on a tumbled calfskin leather strap with contrasting white stitching. Priced at $2,100, this is a refreshingly new take on a tool watch without history to hold Damasko back from creating this monster of a watch.

Tissot Telemeter 1938 (ref. T142.462.16.032.00) (A05.231 movement based on the Valjoux 7753)

In 2022 Tissot added to its trending heritage collection with the launch of the ‘Telemeter 1938’, a watch that takes inspiration deep from its archives in the late 1930s. It would feature a chronograph complication, with a telemeter scale that can be used to calculate distance based on time, using a movement based on the 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback), giving it a bicompax layout, and a 68hr power reserve.

As an attribute to the large but proven movement, it has a case diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 14mm, making it a wearable yet sporty classic dress watch on an embossed tapering leather strap with a deployment clasp. Its case design features fully polished surfaces, curved lugs, nearly vertical case flanks,  a sloping bezel, a signed crown (allowing for 30m water resistance), and oval pushers, enabling easy functionality. 

The best aspect of this model is its remastered telemeter dial, offered in two variants; a gloss black with gilt indices/markings/hands or a more legible silver dial with blue, red, and black printed markings/indices and contrasting blued hands. Priced at $1,950, this is a fine novelty from Tissot that combines old-world looks with modern-day functionality.

Oris Artelier Chronograph (ref. 01 676 7603 4054-07 5 22 71FC) (Oris Caliber 676, based on the 7753)

The Artelier collection is where Oris continues to push contemporary design while leaning towards a dressier aesthetic from the brand. The Oris Artelier Chronograph does just that by encompassing daring and elegant design traits while relying on the capable 7753 (visible through a transparent caseback, with a 44hr power reserve) to offer us an affordable yet high-finish complication dress watch.

Among many others that use the Valjoux base, this is also a complicated dress watch with sportier dimensions. It features a 43.5mm high polish case with long lugs and a rounded bezel. Attached to its case are unique mushroom pushers and a large knurled crown (offering 30m water resistance). 

Continuing the polished aesthetic is a predominantly shiny guilloche grey dial and subdials (3, 6, and 9 o ‘clock layout), with  black contrasts for legibility, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and polished, sharp-looking indices/hands.

Optional is a multilink bracelet (as opposed to calfskin leather), which cohesively compliments the sporty yet elegant design of the watch. This model is now discontinued and was priced at under $3,000 retail.

Hamilton Pan Europ Auto Chrono (ref. H35756755) (Caliber H31, based on the 7753)

The Hamilton Pan Europ has a significant history with relevance to the self-winding chronograph movement. The original housed the iconic first self-winding movement, the Caliber 11, only to follow up nearly half a century later with its re-release, made possible with the usage of a caliber based on the 7753 (with 60 hr power reserve).

As with many heritage remakes using a modern caliber, the Pan Europ Chrono now features a modern-sized case measuring 45mm, with a thickness of 15mm (with 100m water resistance). Maintained is the original aesthetic in the form of its design; its case features a cushion shape in a satin finish with polished bevels accentuating its curves. 

Attached to the case are polished pump pushers and a polished, signed crown at 3 o’clock rather than 9. Feature-packed for its time, it features a handy unidirectional turning bezel finished in anodized black. The dial layout is also faithful to the original, with a bicompax layout, and a date window at 6 o’clock to make for good symmetry and legibility. 

Available in a choice of black or silver dials, it adopts a high-contrast look, with red subdial and chronograph hands adding a pop of color and a sense of speed. This model is now discontinued, with an original retail price of approximately $1,950. It is a sensibly designed modern throwback with specifications to rival watches nearly twice its price point.

Conclusion

As the movement that democratized the self-winding chronograph for everyday people to afford, the modern watch industry would look very different without the Valjoux 7750 caliber. It has had a significant impact on the appreciation and widespread adoption of mechanical complications through the most difficult times into the current era, which appreciates this pursuit as an art form. 

Today the Valjoux 7750 is referred to as the ETA 7750 and has become increasingly exclusive to brands under the Swatch Group umbrella. While it still offers great value and is an important part of the lineage of many iconic models, its dependability has forced other manufacturers to clone the complication for its continued usage. Half a century since its inception, it is still considered an engineering marvel of significant importance to the watch industry.