Category: Watch Reviews

Watch brands have been releasing smaller-sized wristwatches in the past several years, and I believe this trend is here to stay. The days of mammoth-sized watches from the 2000s are fading, and 34mm seems to be the neutral size for all wrists. 

Although 34mm may sound small for a male wrist, during the 1960s and 1970s, wristwatches were typically 34-35mm in size, and that was accepted as a men’s size. Now let’s learn about a variety of watch case sizes and how 34mm can be the sweet spot.

Watch Sizes for Men

Men’s watches are typically sized 38mm and above, but this can vary depending on the type of watch. For instance, dress watches are usually smaller in size (ranging from 34mm to 38mm) as they are intended to be worn for formal events. 

These watches are designed to fit discreetly under a dress shirt cuff, so they tend to have a slim profile. The purpose of a dress watch is to complement one’s outfit without drawing too much attention. Examples of such timepieces include the Cartier Tank, which features a simple white dial and two hands, meeting the criteria for an elegant dress watch.

Another example of men’s watches is tool watches, which are typically larger in size due to their specific functions. Two prominent types of tool watches are dive watches and pilot watches.

Dive watches are traditionally larger because they serve a practical purpose. While modern divers rely on dive computers, divers used dive watches like the Rolex Submariner in the past. These watches feature luminescent markers on the dials and rotating bezels, allowing divers to measure their underwater activities’ duration. The larger size of dive watches was functional, as it facilitated easy readability and operation in underwater conditions.

Similarly, pilot watches are also known for their larger dimensions. Originally designed for aviators, pilot watches emphasized legibility and functionality. The larger size allowed pilots to quickly and easily read the time, even under challenging circumstances. Additionally, pilot watches often incorporated features like large crowns to assist pilots’ ability to wind the watch while wearing gloves. 

Which Watch Size is the Right Size for You?

Watches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. However, when determining the ideal size of a watch, the case size alone is not the sole factor to consider. The lug-to-lug measurement plays a crucial role in how well a timepiece wears on the wrist.

This measurement provides an accurate reflection of how the watch will fit and if there will be any overhang. Even if a watch appears wide, as long as it does not extend beyond the wrist, it can still be considered wearable.

For instance, the Panerai Radiomir is large at 45mm in case size, yet it wears compactly without any overhang on my wrist size of 6 inches. By taking into account both the case size and the lug-to-lug measurement, one can ensure a comfortable and well-fitting watch on their wrist.

Considering these factors when choosing a watch is important to ensure optimal wearability and a satisfying overall experience. In my opinion, 38-40mm tends to be the ideal size for wristwatches, and it strikes as a well-balanced size.

Should You Purchase a 34mm Watch?

This question is indeed personal and subjective. If you have wrists that are 16cm or smaller, then a 34mm size can be a suitable choice. However, it’s important to note that 34mm may not be suitable for everyone, especially if you have larger wrists, as it could appear disproportionately small and even comical.

Ultimately, the decision to purchase and wear a 34mm watch is a personal one. It’s important to consider your individual style preferences, wrist size, and how the timepiece looks and feels on your wrist. While getting different perspectives can be helpful, ultimately, you should choose a watch size that you feel comfortable and confident wearing.

Remember that watch sizes are based on personal taste. It’s always a good idea to try on different watch sizes and styles to determine what works best for you. Now let’s delve into the list of 34mm watches and look at them in further detail below.

The Best 34mm Watches for Men

1. Casio World Time (ref. A500WGA-9)

Casio is renowned as the king of affordable watches, offering timepieces as low as under $20 with models like the F91W. Casio produces excellent starter watches as well as durable “beater” watches like the G-Shock series. Now, let’s review the Casio World Time timepiece, which features a 34mm case size.

The Casio World Time watch exudes a retro charm with its gold plating that harkens back to the 1980s. It is the only watch on this list incorporating a digital display, adding to its unique appeal.

With a 34mm wide case, 38mm lug-to-lug measurement, and 9.6mm thickness, the watch offers a compact and sleek design. Weighing only 50g, it provides a light and enjoyable wearing experience. The Casio World Time features a positive LCD display, ensuring excellent legibility.

The case includes two buttons on both sides for easy-function controls, and the clasp is equipped with a clip-on mechanism for convenient adjustability.Overall, the Casio World Time watch is a delightful timepiece with a distinct charm. With a retail price of $48, it remains affordable, making it an attractive option for those seeking both style and value.

2. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex made a significant comeback with the release of the modern Marlin collection in 2017. This collection is a re-issue of the original Timex Marlin from the 1960s, marking Timex’s first mechanical watch release since 1982.

During the height of the Marlin hype in 2017, a friend of mine took advantage of the craze and purchased several Marlin timepieces, ultimately flipping them for a nice profit.

Now, let’s delve into the specifications of this Marlin re-issue. The case size is 34mm, with a thickness of 10mm. The Marlin offers various dial variations and colors, ranging from silver to black. The hour markers consist of Arabic numerals for even hours and stick markers for odd hours. With a water resistance of 30 meters, the Marlin is suitable for dress watch purposes.

The watch’s crystal is made of acrylic, which is relatively easy to buff out minor scratches. One drawback of the Marlin is its Chinese-made manual winding movement, manufactured by Seagull. Limited information is available about this movement. 

Overall, the Marlin exudes an old-world charm. It is a simple yet exquisite dressy timepiece, available at an affordable price of $209. Additionally, Timex often provides discount codes, allowing customers to pay less. 

3. Seiko Presage SRP841J1

Seiko offers exceptional value for money. One particular Seiko watch we will review is the Presage SRP841J1 from the Cocktail collection. This collection is known for its dressier timepieces. The SRP841J1 has a case size of 34mm and is marketed by Seiko as a ladies’ watch.

However, as we have learned, size is not limited to a specific gender, and this watch can be enjoyed by individuals of all genders. The watch’s dial is the standout feature, showcasing a silver color with beautiful blue hues. It features a unique design resembling a folding Chinese-style fan arranged in a circular pattern.

When light hits the dial, it creates a mesmerizing effect, adding to its visual appeal. The Hardlex domed shape of the crystal creates a visually pleasing effect, particularly when viewed from different angles. Additionally, the domed crystal can cause a slight distortion effect at the outer edges, adding further visual interest to the timepiece.

As a simple three-handed watch, the SRP841J1 includes a date indicator positioned at the 3 o’clock marker. The hour markers consist of applied indices, except for the 3 o’clock position. This watch serves as an excellent entry point into dressier timepieces.

Lastly, the SRP841J1 is attractively priced at $450, making it affordable for enthusiasts looking to own a Seiko timepiece from the Presage collection. 

4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

I have yet to own a Marathon timepiece in my watch-collecting journey, but I am familiar with the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches for U.S. military personnel. The timepiece we will review is the General Purpose Mechanical (referred to as the GPM).

The GPM features a case made of High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, which ensures exceptional lightness and durability. With a case size of 34mm and a thickness of 11mm, it strikes a balanced profile. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch-resistant properties.

The GPM houses the Seiko NH35A movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping. It has a water resistance rating of 3ATM, making it suitable for light water splashes. A standout feature of Marathon watches is the use of tritium tubes for low-light viewing.

These tubes contain fluorescent chemicals that automatically emit a glow in low-light environments. While your eyes may require a moment to adjust, once the tubes are fully activated, they emit a strong and colorful brightness.

The General Purpose Mechanical is a robust military field watch designed to withstand demanding conditions. It carries a price tag of $420, often discounted by Marathon, offering enthusiasts an opportunity to own a durable and reliable timepiece at a more affordable price.

5. Hamilton Khaki Field Officer Auto (ref. H70365133)

Until recently, I was unaware that Hamilton offered a Khaki Field Watch in 34mm, which highlights the brand’s commitment to catering to a wide range of wrist sizes. The Khaki collection spans from 34mm to 44mm, demonstrating that Hamilton understands the importance of offering diverse sizes for their watch models.

The Khaki Field Officer Auto in 34mm features a case with a thickness of 10.4mm. The dial is black, and the hour markers consist of Arabic numerals, with larger numerals at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions. Positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, there is a date indicator integrated into the dial. This Khaki Auto watch includes three hands, with a red arrow adorning the tip of the second hand, adding a subtle touch of color.

With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Khaki Field Officer Auto is well-suited for various activities. It houses an ETA 2824 automatic movement, a reliable and widely recognized movement in the watch industry. This choice of movement is fitting for a military field watch, as it ensures dependable performance whenever you need it.

It’s worth noting that the Officer in this size has been discontinued. However, if you are interested in acquiring one, the secondary market may offer opportunities to find this timepiece. The Khaki Field Officer Auto carries a rich heritage and boasts an appealing design that captures the essence of a military field watch.

6. Victorinox Maverick Small Black 34 mm (ref. 241701)

Victorinox, renowned for being the original maker of Swiss Army Knives since 1884, has established a reputation for producing high-quality products. Their expertise in craftsmanship extends to their line of durable watches.

The watch under review is the Maverick Small Black, featuring a 34mm case diameter that sits thinly at 8mm. Inspired by dive watches, this Maverick model includes a unidirectional bezel. However, it’s important to note that despite its dive-inspired design, it offers a water resistance rating of 100m, which may limit its suitability for extensive diving activities.

The black dial of the watch is adorned with Arabic numerals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, contributing to its legibility. The presence of a date indicator at the 6 o’clock position ensures symmetrical aesthetics.

It’s worth mentioning that due to its 34mm case size and the inclusion of a diver’s bezel, the actual dial of the watch may appear relatively small when worn on the wrist. Therefore, trying on the watch before making a purchase is advisable to ensure the desired fit and appearance.

The Maverick Small is a straightforward, no-frills dive-style watch. With a retail price of $595, it is one of the more affordable options on this list.

7. Longines Conquest 34mm (ref. L3.377.4.58.6)

Longines, renowned for its heritage, quality, and brand recognition, holds a prominent position within the Swatch Group. Therefore, it comes as no surprise to find a Longines timepiece on this list, particularly in a 34mm size.

The Conquest 34mm, although marketed as a ladies’ watch, shares the same aesthetics as its larger counterparts in the 39mm, 41mm, and 43mm case versions. However, it’s important to note that the 34mm case version features a quartz movement instead of an automatic movement, resulting in a downgrade.

The Conquest 34mm serves as an excellent everyday timepiece, boasting a simple dial layout. The 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions are marked with numerals, while the remaining hour markers feature stick markers. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark is a date indicator with a small cut-off marker, maintaining a balanced design.

A potential downside of this watch lies in the design and size of the crown and crown guards. The crown is too long, potentially causing discomfort on the wrist. Additionally, the sharp and edgy crown guards pose a similar issue.

Regrettably, the Conquest 34mm model has been discontinued, necessitating a search in the secondary market to buy it. 

8. Junghans Max Bill 34mm Manual Wind (ref. 27/3701.02)

Junghans epitomizes the concept of “less is more,” and their Max Bill collection exemplifies this principle. With a range of automatic, manual winding, chronograph, solar, and quartz models, the collection offers various options. However, in this review, we will focus on the manual wind version.

The Max Bill Manual Wind in 34mm embraces simplicity with its clean and minimalist dial layout. Thin lines serve as hour and seconds markers, and some models feature small Arabic numerals and a small seconds sub-dial. The version under review features a symmetrical dial with small lume plots at the outer edge of the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions.

A hint of lume is also present on the hour and minute hands, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. Measuring a mere 9mm in thickness and equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, this Max Bill model exudes a vintage charm and provides a delightful wrist-wearing experience.

The design of the Max Bill in 34mm is clean and devoid of superfluous features, making it suitable for all genders. Its iconic design is highly regarded, and adding the Max Bill to one’s watch collection is highly recommended. The Max Bill Manual Wind is available for €975, which roughly translates to $1,050. 

9. Mido Baroncelli Heritage (ref. M027.207.11.010.00)

Mido, a brand within the Swatch Group, may not be as widely recognized in North America but enjoys popularity in Asia. Positioned in the mid-tier of the Swatch Group hierarchy, Mido falls below Longines but above Hamilton and Tissot in terms of quality and pricing.

This Mido Baroncelli Heritage is an interesting addition to this list as it is officially listed as a 33mm case diameter watch marketed towards women. However, due to its neutral colors and features, it can be easily worn by men with smaller wrists as well.

The dial of the Baroncelli Heritage is matte white with a wrinkled texture reminiscent of canvas material. The hour and minute hands feature a faceted design with alternating polish finishing, while the second hand adds a subtle touch of blue to the white dial. A date indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock, breaking up the dial that showcases painted hour and minute indices.

The Baroncelli Heritage comes with a 7-piece link bracelet, resembling the style of the Breitling Navitimer. Overall, this watch exudes a dressy aesthetic and is well-suited for formal evening wear. The retail price of the Baroncelli Heritage is $1,100.

10. Tudor Royal 34mm (ref. M28400-0006)

Tudor is a watch brand that holds a special place in my heart, having owned the Tudor Prince Date 74000 and currently owning the Black Bay Harrods Edition. The Tudor Prince, like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, is 34mm in case diameter and features a slim case profile.

However, the Prince collection has been discontinued, and recent variations were only available in Asia by Tudor. In 2020, Tudor introduced the new Tudor Royal collection, initially targeting the Asian market but now available worldwide. The Royal collection has various case sizes, including the 34mm version we are reviewing here.

The Tudor Royal features an engine-turned-bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex Datejusts and a satin-like finish on the case. The dial is a sunburst blue with Roman numerals for hour markers and a date indicator at 3 o’clock. The watch incorporates an integrated bracelet design with five pieces in each link. The Tudor Royal draws inspiration from the Rolex Oysterquartz with its case shape and integrated design but with a modern interpretation.

Furthermore, Tudor now offers a five-year warranty on their watches, ensuring the trust and reliability of the brand. With a retail price of $2,350, the Tudor Royal presents an attractive proposition compared to its Rolex counterparts, providing a great value proposition for watch enthusiasts. 

11. Cartier Tank Must Large (ref. WSTA0041)

The Tank watch by Cartier holds historical significance as it was introduced in 1918 and was one of the first wristwatches created. This timepiece marked a significant milestone in horology. Since then, Cartier has established itself as a renowned jeweler and watchmaker in the industry, with the focus here being on the Tank Must Large.

The Tank Must Large embodies the essence of a classic dress watch, featuring dimensions of 34mm in length and 25.5mm in width. The dial boasts a silvery white color adorned with black Roman numerals, exuding timeless elegance. The Tank’s hands are iconic blue sword-shaped hands, adding a touch of sophistication.

With a leather strap and Cartier’s distinctive deployant clasp, which allows the excess strap to fold inward, the Tank Must Large offers both comfort and style. One of the signature features of this Tank is the beaded crown with a blue cabochon, which is a hallmark of Cartier’s design and adds visual delight.

The Tank is unquestionably a stunning timepiece that serves as a perfect complement to any evening attire. Its design is equally captivating on both male and female wrists, making it a versatile watch.

Considering the brand’s heritage and the historical significance of the Tank, this Tank is reasonably priced at $3,100 for a luxury watch of this caliber. 

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.001)

Omega has a rich history and a strong reputation for quality timepieces. For me, it also reminds me of my grandfather, making it my favorite watch brand.

The Aqua Terra 34mm retains the signature elegance of the Aqua Terra collection while offering a slightly more feminine design than its larger 38mm counterpart. With its 34mm case size and 11.9mm thickness, it is well-suited for those with smaller wrists. The lug width of 16mm and lug-to-lug length of 40.5mm further contribute to its comfortable fit.

This particular version of the Aqua Terra features a captivating “Lagoon Green” dial, which adds a unique and refreshing touch. The date indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock, ensuring a balanced and symmetrical design. The rounded hour markers distinguish it from the 38mm version, giving it its own distinct character.

Inside, the watch houses the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a precise and reliable movement that is METAS-certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy within a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.

With a water resistance rating of 150m, the Aqua Terra 34mm is a versatile timepiece that can handle more than just everyday splashes. Weighing in at 100g, it offers a comfortable and enjoyable wearing experience throughout the day.

Priced at $6300, the Aqua Terra 34mm represents a significant price. However, given its versatility, it could potentially serve as a one-watch collection.

13. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 (ref. 124200)

Rolex, known for its prestigious reputation and iconic designs, certainly holds its crown in the Swiss luxury watch industry. The Oyster Perpetual line, particularly in its 34mm size, offers a more understated and subtle option within Rolex’s catalog. 

Although the 34mm case size may initially sound small, the Oyster Perpetual’s design is deceptive in terms of how it wears on the wrist. The protruding case back and thicker lugs give it a larger presence. Additionally, the Oyster Perpetual offers a wide range of dial color variants, ensuring you’ll find one that suits your style.

With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Oyster Perpetual allows you to confidently engage in activities such as swimming without worrying about water damage. The watch’s clasp features Rolex’s Easylink system, allowing for a small extension of the bracelet if your wrist swells up on a warm day.

This practical feature, appreciated by many, has set a standard other brands have followed. Among all the watches listed here, the Oyster Perpetual is my favorite, and it’s easy to understand why. Its simplicity and timeless design make a strong statement on the wrist. Priced at $5,800, the Oyster Perpetual represents a significant investment and long waitlist at authorized dealers.

14. Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J

The Patek Philippe Calatrava is indeed regarded as the epitome of a dress watch, exuding sophistication with its 34mm case size, hobnail-textured bezel, and leather strap. The Calatrava 3919J fits snugly on the wrist and easily slips under the cuff due to its slim profile, measuring only 7mm in thickness.

Patek Philippe utilizes 18K yellow gold for the case material, a hallmark of their exquisite craftsmanship. The white dial features black Roman numerals, complemented by a leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The small seconds sub-dial is positioned above the 6 o’clock mark.

The hand-wound movement of the Calatrava 3919J contributes to its thinness, allowing for a sleek and refined appearance. Additionally, it offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours, ensuring sufficient wear between winding.

While the Calatrava 3919J may not be my ideal dress watch from Patek Philippe, its intricate details and meticulous craftsmanship are undeniable. This Calatrava would undoubtedly be a fitting companion for a black-tie event or any formal occasion.

As the Calatrava 3919J was discontinued in 2006, sourcing it from the secondary market is the most likely option for purchasing this timepiece. 

15. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm White Dial (ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01)

Several years ago in New York City, I visited a watch store and noticed a vintage AP Royal Oak in the display case. It was 33-34mm in case size, and I asked to try it on. It was a great experience trying on the vintage Royal Oak, and especially in smaller case sizes, they offer a unique and charming appeal to watch enthusiasts.

Moving on to the modern Royal Oak in 34mm ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01, it is indeed a versatile and unisex timepiece, despite the availability of larger case sizes within the AP catalog. The stainless steel case of the 34mm Royal Oak features a combination of polished and brushed finishes, showcasing the brand’s fine craftsmanship. The watch measures 8.8mm in thickness and offers a water resistance of 50m.

The silver-toned dial with the iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers, and luminescent-coated Royal Oak hands contribute to the watch’s distinctive aesthetic. The bracelet is secured by a butterfly deployant clasp with dual buttons, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.

A minor critique of this timepiece is the absence of a micro-adjustment feature on the bracelet, which may make achieving the perfect fit a bit more challenging.

Considering the prestigious Royal Oak lineage and “Holy Trinity” title associated with the brand, the 34mm Royal Oak commands a high retail price of $25,300. Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that demand for Royal Oak watches often exceeds supply, resulting in waitlists for interested buyers.

Conclusion

Overall, 34 mm-sized watches are gaining appreciation in the watch industry, particularly among individuals with smaller wrists. This trend is refreshing as watch brands recognize the need for smaller sizes. As someone who has owned a variety of 34mm watches, I regret selling the Tudor Prince Date too soon.

I wholeheartedly support more brands offering watch variants in smaller case sizes, as it allows individuals with smaller wrists to fully enjoy the hobby. In my opinion, 34mm is a classically styled case size that strikes a balance. It is small and lightweight enough to go unnoticed on the wrist when desired, yet it still exudes elegance.

The message I want to convey is that we should be open to wearing watches with smaller case sizes. Embracing smaller watches can enhance the overall wearing experience. So, don’t hesitate to explore the world of 34mm watches!

Rubber? No, too casual and looks cheap. Stainless steel? Maybe, but it seems that every watch out there is made of this metal. Silver? Feels great but just has no significant difference in terms of looks with stainless steel. Bronze? Looks cool initially but quickly gets old and “rusty”. But gold? YES PLEASE. 

Do you want something that shows personality but yet stays elegant and classy? Gold. Do you want something that lasts you forever and that doesn’t ever corrode? Gold. Want to look like a badass like Tony Soprano or Michael Corleone? Gold watches are your answer. 

The attractiveness of the color gold is undeniable. When made well into a watch, it has the best combination of a luxury jewelry look and a time-telling tool that we all know and love. Not only does it exert an aura of confidence to the wearer, but the longevity and value of a gold watch also allow this confidence to be passed down to generations. In this article, we’ll list the 20 best solid gold watches you can buy.

Why Are Solid Gold Watches Cool and Why You Should Buy One

The first ever solid gold wristwatch was made by Girard-Perregaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city in Switzerland. It was believed that the watch was made for the German Emperor William I in 1879 as he wanted to commission them for Naval officers. 

The material gold was used as it is corrosion-resistant, particularly useful for Naval officers to do their duty guarding the sea. It might look a little extravagant for officers and soldiers, but at that time, stainless steel was not discovered, and thus, gold was the most suitable material despite looking a little out of place. 

Fast forward to the current generation, gold watches are worn to show luxury, elegance, and status. It can be worn with a suit to show class and elegance, enhancing your individuality; it can also be worn casually, paired with a collar T-shirt and jeans to provide a sophisticated yet vintage look. 

Gold watches are also often featured in famous Hollywood movies, particularly Mafia movies such as Scarface, Godfather, and The Sopranos. When you see Al Pacino wearing a black suit with a gold watch, the watch really stands out, perfectly showing off his personality as a badass Mafia.

There are often misconceptions about gold watches as there are several different types, such as gold-plated, PVD-treated, or blended gold (also known as two-tone). In this article, we focus solely on solid gold watches – which means they’re fully constructed with gold, inside out. 

There are also different types of gold used, such as yellow, white, pink, and red gold. Some manufacturers go a step further and mix gold with another alloy to improve its properties while maintaining the looks, such as the Everose gold and the Sedna gold. 

Gold being gold, never loses value because it is a precious material often sought after. Thus, despite being a time-telling piece, a gold watch’s value, durability, and fashionable aspect is truly timeless. 

The Best Soild Gold Watches

1. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 (ref. 4200H/222J-B935)

First released in 1977, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was to commemorate their 222nd anniversary as a company. The watch came in stainless steel and gold with an integrated bracelet, released to compete with the ever-so-famous Patek Philipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. March 2022 marks the return of the iconic 222, arguably one of the best releases in Watches and Wonders 2022. 

The new 222, in yellow gold, carries over a lot of the original design, including the very cool hexagonal central links, integrated bracelet, Pd150 white gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o’clock of the case, and a few tweaks to its movement. 

The new movement is their in-house caliber 2455/2 and has a power reserve of 40 hours. With a 37mm diameter case size and 7.95mm thickness, it definitely retains its vintage size and design while implementing contemporary touches by improving the comfort of the bracelet, making all of us feel like the Vacheron Constantin 222 has never really left our side. 

Price: $109,000

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Rose Gold (ref. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01)

The Royal Oak is probably one of the most sought sports watches in the world and for good reason. It was first released in 1972, designed by the very talented Gerald Genta (who is like the Picasso of designing watches). 

With the introduction of the integrated bracelet and the iconic hexagonal case in stainless steel, Genta essentially changed the watch industry forever. At that time, the Royal Oak was one of the first few watches to introduce a stainless steel watch commanding luxury prices. But today, clearly, everyone is on the same wavelength with this outrageous (at that time) idea. 

The Royal Oak 50th Anniversary was released in 2022. It maintains much of its original design, but with the material rose gold and a smoked slate gray dial, you get a sporty and elegant look on your wrist with excellent contrast. Housing the new in-house caliber 7121 with a power reserve of 50 hours is a familiar hexagonal-shaped 39mm case and a thickness of 8.1mm, making it fit onto many wrists comfortably. 

Price: €72,500

3. Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

Arguably the most wanted, most sought after, most hyped watch in the world is the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711. The name and design of the Nautilus were inspired by a novel called “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea”. From the octagonal yet square-looking case resembling a submarine’s glass window and its deep ocean-blue dial, we can see where the design was inspired.

Patek Philippe did not stop the legacy and introduced the 5811/1G in 2022. It stays true to the identity and design of the 5711 while improving on it with white gold, making the timepiece exude elegance and sophistication. 

The 5811/1G also comes in the 41mm classic submarine-window case that seamlessly blends in with the beautifully designed integrated bracelet, along with the same iconic and instantly recognizable horizontally embossed deep blue dial. Powering the 5811/1G is their self-winding caliber 26-330 SC with 45 hours of power reserve, ensuring accurate and reliable time-keeping.

With its exceptional craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and iconic design, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5811/1G represents a fusion of tradition and innovation, making every avid watch collector drool. 

Price: €69,200

4. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Green Dial (ref. 116508)

Remember when I mentioned the word ‘arguably’ in the previous section? Well, that’s because of this watch. The Daytona. The watch that created hype, the watch that everyone wants, the watch that created the controversial phenomenon of the ‘waiting list’. 

The ref.116508 has all the Daytona features that we all know and love: the iconic tachymeter bezel that gives a flare of sportiness, the mickey-mouse looking subdials (I know most people associate it with panda but not me), and the screwed pushers. What makes the ref.116508 stand out from other Daytonas is its vibrant green dial paired with a 40mm solid 18k yellow gold case, creating a visually-striking but not obnoxious aesthetic to the watch.

Equipped with their in-house caliber 4130 with a respectable power reserve of 72 hours, it is more reliable than ever, ensuring accurate timekeeping, along with a useful chronograph function for the wearer to time their favorite coffee-brewing activity (or time anything you want).

Thanks to its complicated movement, amazing wearability, and stunning looks, this watch truly represents Rolex’s excellence and commitment to horology. However, with great innovative and beautifully designed watches comes great sacrifices in the watch community. Let’s just say that if you can get one at the original price, consider yourself the luckiest person on earth.

Price: €38,600

5. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumens” (ref. 142.055)

A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that often flies under the radar of many watch collectors just because it is not made in the fairytale land of watch-making — Switzerland. It was founded in Germany back in 1845, and focused on making remarkable and elegant dressy timepieces with impeccable craftsmanship.

The “Lumens” is made in their proprietary gold called “Honeygold”. What a peculiar name for a gold material, but it is catchy, so it works! That said, the warm glow of the 41.9mm gold case paired with the sophisticated, semi-transparent dial showcasing its intricate mechanics and Arabic numerals is nothing I’ve seen before in other watches.

You could really spend the whole day staring at the dial and wait for the next minute (or hour if you have lots of time) to pass as you witness the minute indices move intricately.As you turn the watch to its back, the stunning in-house caliber L043.9 will leave you in awe, questioning every other movement that exists and putting them in their place.

It features a manual winding movement with a power reserve of 72 hours and is finished to the highest of standards that will no doubt cause watch collectors to be jealous, making it extremely desirable for those who appreciate craftsmanship and horology.

Price: €114,000

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold (ref. Q1302520)

All watches tell you the time, most of them tell you the date, and some tell you the day, but very few watches tell you the day, date, month, year, moon phase, and even accounting for leap years, with an adjustment required only once every 100 years! This feature is also known as a Perpetual Calendar.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is nicknamed ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ and for a very good reason. Other than providing movements for goliath watch brands such as those mentioned above (Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe), the movement in this watch is incredibly complicated to make, let alone make it ultra-thin, just as the name suggests.

Encasing the caliber 868 with a power reserve of 38 hours is a beautiful 39mm 18K pink gold case that is only 9.2mm thick. To put this into context, most traditional watches are around 10mm thick, and the only feature most of them have is telling the time and date. Jaeger-LeCoultre can make a complicated perpetual calendar movement and fit into such a slim case, making it 100 times more impressive. 

With its slim case and a subtly textured cream-white dial, along with pink gold indices and dauphine hands, this makes the perfect tuxedo-paired watch.

Price: $37,700

7. Cartier Tank Louis (ref. WGTA0011)

Sure, Cartier isn’t well known for its watchmaking and mostly for their jewelry, but we cannot take away the credit they deserve for creating one of the most iconic watch cases and dials in all watches. 

The dimensions of this watch are an unorthodox 33.7 mm x 25.5mm, 6.6mm thick because of its rectangular shape. However, this watch would fit perfectly on the wrist with a really thin rose gold case that really says class and elegance. 

The modern Cartier Tank Louis stays loyal to its predecessors by featuring a silver opaline dial along with vintage-looking Roman numerals as their indices. This is then paired with subtle yet classy blued steel hands and a railroad track minute scale, creating a timeless and iconic design. 

Featuring the movement is their Cartier caliber 1917 MC, which is a hand-wound movement and has a power reserve of 38 hours, adding more vintage touches to the watch but with contemporary specifications. 

With its slim and elegant, timeless design, you could easily share this watch with your partner. If you want to snag yourself a bargain, this is it, one watch for two! 

Price: €13,300

8. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Pink Gold (ref. 81010-52-3118-1CM)

Girard-Perregaux has slowly risen in the past few years thanks to their focus on creating more sporty aesthetic watches. The new GP Laureato is no different and is their take on luxury watches with an integrated bracelet. 

The watch comes in a 42mm solid pink gold case and an integrated bracelet with two different kinds of finishing, beautifully executed — satin and polished. 

The main star of the show is the handcrafted black onyx dial that requires the expertise of highly skilled craftsmen, and to complement the dial are the pink gold indices, baton hands, and their GP logo. To complete the package, the iconic octagonal bezel really adds a distinctive flair to the watch design, making it extra sporty but also elegant with the use of gold. 

Powering the Laureato is the caliber GP01800 with a power reserve of 54 hours, entirely in-house with meticulous finishes and a pink gold oscillating weight that you can appreciate at the back of the watch. 

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato combines sportiness in its design, elegance with the use of gold and a stunning black onyx dial. It certainly succeeded in creating a contemporary luxury sports watch that can easily be dressed down or up. 

Price: CHF 51,800

9. Chopard Alpine Eagle Yellow Gold (ref. 295363-0001)

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s re-celebration of its iconic St. Moritz watch and its take on luxury sports watches commemorating the magnificent nature. 

The Alpine Eagle features a 41mm round 18k yellow gold case, accompanied by the inclusion of screws on the bezel to give it a more athletic look. Tapering down the case is the popular integrated bracelet, also in solid yellow gold. 

To finesse its sporty-chic aesthetic with a touch of nature, the Alpine Eagle’s dial resembles the radial, irregular texture of an eagle’s iris, and the counterweight of its second hand resembles an eagle’s feather. Its crown is also worth mentioning, as it is engraved with a compass rose, where Chopard has endowed it with a meaning that symbolizes contemporary eagles navigating their destiny and an invitation to nature exploration.

Inside the watch is the caliber 01.01-C, which has a self-winding mechanical movement that is COSC certified, proving that it is reliable and functional with a respectable 60 hours of power reserve.

Most gold watches combine gold with other colors, but not this watch. This goes all in on gold. That includes the dial, the screws, the bezel, the case, and some parts of the indices. If you want a reliable, sporty watch that really makes a statement and holds deep value, this is the watch to go to. 

Price: $55,800

10. Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold (ref. G0A47010)

The Piaget Polo has been the staple of their collection as of late in representing their popular category of luxury sports watches. Most sports watches tend to go for an integrated bracelet, but not the Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold, which has a green leather strap, giving it an elegant and dressier look. 

The rose gold cushion case with a green guilloché, horizontal grooves, and dial adds even more to the level of elegance. The 42mm case size might be big for some, but with a thickness of 9.4mm, it still wears well under the cuff. However, don’t let that dressy look fool you. While it looks dressy, you can still take it to a water polo game easily with a water resistance of 100 meters (although look out for its leather strap).

Additionally, you can also enjoy looking at its in-house 1110P automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours from the open case back of this watch, along with the engraved Piaget coat of arms on the oscillating weight.

Its rose gold construction paired with the green leather strap and the dial is a joy to look at, with both colors complimenting each other, making this an easy watch to recommend for everyone who loves green. 

Price: $47,300

11. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor Rose Gold (ref. PFC914-2020001-200182)

The Tonda PF is part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda collection and is perhaps the flagship collection of the brand, oozing elegance, class, and also sportiness. This particular model is no exception, featuring a 40mm rose gold case and integrated bracelet that adds a touch of warmth and luxury to the watch.

Zooming into its uncluttered warm gray, matte guiiloché dial is an exceptional ‘grain d’orge’ finish (which means ‘grain of barley’ in French), showing a drastic contrast from the rose gold that allows the dial to really pop. Their new PF703 movement that comes with a 48-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance is revolutionary with a thickness of just 3mm (case thickness of 7.8mm), achieved with the use of a full platinum micro-rotor (hence the name).

Parmigiani Fleurier brilliantly integrated the diminutive and brilliantly finished oscillating weight into the movement instead of lying on top of it like other brands. Thanks to its minimalist dial and ultra-thin case, the 18K rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped hands really complete the watch, creating a stylish yet exquisite look perfect for many occasions. 

Price: $56,800

12. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.99.002)

The Speedmaster marks a monumental achievement for mankind, being the first watch on the moon in 1969. From then, Speedmaster earned its profound nickname of the “Moonwatch”, an iconic timepiece that will always resonate with NASA’s Apollo mission for being chosen to wear to the moon. 

The new Speedmaster features a 42mm 18K gold case and bracelet. But not just any gold. Omega calls it the “Moonshine™ Gold”. Inspired by the shining moonlight, Moonshine™ Gold is slightly paler than traditional yellow gold, giving it a more subtle and serene look. 

Besides the different hue, this gold alloy also has a higher resistance to fading in color and luster over time, making this watch more durable. To contrast with the Moonshine™ Gold is the black subdials, indices, and ceramic bezel that give the watch a really sporty but not in-your-face look.

Powering the Speedmaster is the highly dependable, manual winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861 with 50 hours of power reserve. Flip over the watch, and you will lust at the beautiful movement shown on the open case back of the Speedmaster. Oh, and Omega obviously has engraved this Speedmaster with “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”, just in case you forget.

Price: $41,400

13. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW252

“Roses are red, violets are blue; there is always an Asian, better than you.” Grand Seiko represents this meme phrase perfectly, as it is the only brand that is founded in Japan on this list and is definitely comparable with other Swiss watches.

The SBGW252 is a recreation of the first-ever Grand Seiko launched back in 1960 and has successfully stayed faithful to the model that inspired it aesthetically. Like its elder brother, the dial features a classic, vintage design – emphasized with a cream-white dial, simple-looking indices, and dauphine hands. And to accentuate the ‘Elegance’, is the unique and elegant lettering of the Grand Seiko logo at 12. 

Encapsulating this lovely dial is a 38mm 18K yellow gold case with 10.7mm thickness, which perfectly captures the spirit and design of the 1960 version of Grand Seiko. What really takes this to another level is the finishing of the watch — razor-sharp edges on the hands, flawless polishing on the case, and I could go on and on. 

What’s not so vintage is the advanced in-house manual winding movement 9S64 with a 3-day power reserve, strong antimagnetic properties, and is regulated to a highly accurate of -3 to +5 seconds a day. 

A timeless design with impeccable finishing, innovative in-house movements that are reliable and accurate, and a reasonable price are what make Grand Seiko truly grand.

Price: $17,200

14. Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold (ref. 541.OX.1181.RX)

As the infamous Nico Leonard spread his hate for Hublot around the globe, we tend to misunderstand Hublot as this company that only makes large, ostentatious watches with unusual materials and basic movements. This is not the case for the Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold. 

The watch comes in a proprietary 42mm King Gold case (a fusion of several precious metals), adding a warmer shade than the traditional 18K gold. Additionally, a very un-Hublot-like move is the elegant, simple-looking deep black dial, featuring two subdials and simple indices, making it very uncharacteristic of Hublot, who often have skeletonized dials.

Completing the look is the use of a black rubber strap, nicely contrasting with the color gold, giving it a sportier look. Powering the watch is the HUB1153 Self-winding Chronograph Movement, which has a power reserve of 42 hours. Perhaps something that is worth noting and contrasting its sporty look is its water resistance of just 50m, a very un-sporty amount if you ask me. 

Hublot’s take on contemporary sport watches to make them look elegant with the use of precious metals is very respectable, and if you are someone who likes wearing rubber straps yet wants to maintain a refined look, this might be it. 

Price: $28,300

15. Breguet Tradition (ref. 7097BB/G1/9WU)

Perhaps the most under-the-radar watch in this list is the Breguet Tradition. Unlike the use of yellow gold or rose gold in other watches, this watch uses white gold to create a more subdued and toned-down look. What’s not toned down is the dial, showcasing 70% of the contraption-looking movement, a traditional-looking dial with Roman numerals, and blued cathedral hands. 

The dial that tells time is, in fact, smaller than usual, stationed at the top part of the dial. The other part reminds me of the organs of a clock tower, consisting of a bunch of gears and levers working simultaneously together.

Under the 40mm white gold case is Breguet’s caliber 505 SR1, featuring an automatic movement with 50 hours of power reserve plus a retrograde seconds hand. However, with this watch being an ultra dressy-looking piece, it only features 30m of water resistance, but not to worry because you won’t likely swim with your tuxedo on. 

Price: $35,400

16. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Sedna Gold (ref. 5000-36S40-O52A)

Blancpain was founded in 1735, making it the oldest watch brand in the world. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was also the first dive watch, and since then, it has branched out into several different styles of watches, such as the Bathyscaphe. 

The Bathyscaphe takes a lot of the features of a dive watch, including a rotatable diving bezel, a large case for legibility, and a whopping 300 meters of water resistance. The rework of its dial is what sets it apart from other dive watches, with a sleeker design with simple indices, a stunning sunburst dark blue dial, and rose gold accents on the bezel, hands, and indices. 

The rose gold is made with Swatch Group’s (Blancpain is part of the Swatch Group) proprietary gold called Sedna Gold, which is used on the 43mm case, color-matching the indices, hands, and bezel. 

Powering the dive watch is their in-house caliber 1315, an automatic movement with an insane 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve, so you don’t have to do your daily chore of winding your watch. Through the open case back, the beautifully finished caliber 1315 can be seen, especially with the oscillating weight engraved with the Blancpain logo, which is also made in Sedna Gold.

Price: $26,300

17. Breitling Chronomat 36 Red Gold (ref. R10380101A1R1)

Breitling is a brand that has a rich history, particularly with technical aviation (the Navitimer) and racing (the Top Time). However, they often have a gap in their collection, lacking smaller-sized watches with simple-looking dials watches. Thankfully, Breitling rebooted their Chronomat collection in 2020 and definitely filled the missing puzzle.

This Chronomat has a vintage-inspired look – featuring a paper-white dial with simple indices and baton hands in red gold and a date window at 6. Adding more luxury and elegance to the watch is the use of 18K red gold found on the 36mm case, bezel, and bracelet.

The Chronomat achieves an iconic look through its distinctive “Rouleaux” bracelet, which resembles a string of machine gun bullets sitting comfortably on your wrist, and a robust bezel that enhances its sporty character. 

Their movement is the Breitling 10, a COSC-certified chronometer with 42 hours of power reserve and a self-winding mechanical movement that brings back the vintage touch.

Breitling really proved me wrong this time: they are not just about chunky, sporty-looking watches and are more than capable of making a stylish yet elegant watch with the introduction of the new Chronomat 36. I’m definitely glad to be proven wrong on this occasion.

Price: $27,500

18. Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Gold (ref. M79018V-0001)

Tudor being Rolex’s sister brand for many years (since 1926), has really kept them in the shadows. But not until 2012 when Tudor released the Black Bay model that took the world by storm and put most Swiss watches at bay. Inspired by the original Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref.7922, the Black Bay took a lot of the vintage designs of the 7922 and added their own touches to it. 

The Black Bay 58 was then introduced in 2018, shrinking the case size from 41mm to a more compact 39mm, adding more retro aesthetics and sizing. Using 18K yellow gold on the case and the iconic “snowflake” hand and indices, contrasting it with the olive-green dial and bezel, and pairing it with a dark brown alligator leather strap, just makes the watch shouts RETRO and CLASS. 

Surprisingly, unlike other Black Bay 58 models (except the 925 Silver model), it features an open case back, showcasing the caliber MT5400 movement, a respectable COSC-certified self-winding mechanical movement with 70 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. 

It’s fair to say that if Hans Wilsdorf (founder of Rolex) was alive today to witness Tudor’s success, he would be very proud, like an elder brother seeing his little sister graduate from university kind of moment. 

Price: $17,400

19. Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro (ref. PAM01182)

Typically creating sports watches and dive watches, the Italian-made Panerai is well known for its rugged, huge cases with excellent legibility and specifications, perfect for the Italian Royal Navy to wear on their missions. Today in a more peaceful era, Panerai decided to branch out and move forward to creating more elegant pieces such as the Luminor Due TuttoOro.

For the first time in a long time, the Due TuttoOro comes in a tiny (for Panerai’s standard) 38mm Goldtech case. The Goldtech is used on the case, with unmissable crown guards, hands, and bracelet, featuring a slightly red tone, giving it a deeper and richer look. Aligned with Panerai’s typical fashion, the blue sun-brushed dial has huge Arabic 12 and 6 numeral indices with fascinating lume, a small seconds hand at 9, and a date at 3, staying true to Panerai’s iconic dial design. 

Powering the watch is the automatic mechanical movement P.900 caliber with a power reserve of 3 days and a water resistance of just 30m, which is considered atypical from Panerai. However, with this piece being a much dressier-looking timepiece, the Luminor Due TuttoOro definitely suits someone going out for a nice dinner rather than doing military work.

Price: $37,200

20. Accutron Spaceview Electrostatic Watch 18K Gold (ref. 2ES7A001) 

Do you think that watches in this list are too predictable and not shouting any personality enough? Have a look at this watch. The dial started simple — luminous indices and hands (gilt hour and minute hands and a red seconds hand, also luminous).

But why would Accutron release a watch to commemorate its 60th anniversary of watch-world-changing technology stop there? Similar to other Accutron watches, the rest of this dial is left open to showcase the crazy-looking movement of the Spaceview.

To properly fit the movement is a 43.5mm 18K gold case that will be individually numbered to kindly remind you that you are one of the exclusive and lucky 60 individuals in the Accutron Spaceview gang. The new Spaceview recalls the original Spaceview from 1960, exposing the cyberpunk back to the future, aircraft engine-looking movement. Its movement is truly one of a kind.

Simply put, it uses electrostatic energy, and with the help of human motion, it can power the movement for at least 2 years and, most importantly, see the satisfying seconds hand sweep fluidly. An unorthodox design with an extremely innovative movement on your wrist is the perfect conversation starter, but if you are an introvert, you could simply just stare at this. 

Price: $19,600

Final Thoughts

Solid gold watches offer lots of advantages with their exceptional craftsmanship, representation of luxury and status, and high value. All of that captivates many watch enthusiasts and collectors. Whether it is to get a gold watch for its durability or value or looks or all together, there is never a bad option. 

Not really a gold watch kind of guy myself, mainly because of my bank account; compiling this list just changed my mind, and I might potentially get one myself in the, hopefully, near future. I certainly hope this list inspires you the same too.

Wristwatches have evolved significantly since their inception, with various shapes, designs, and functionalities captivating watch enthusiasts around the world. 

Among these fascinating timepieces, the rectangular wristwatch stands out as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. In this guide, we delve into the history of rectangular wristwatches, tracing their origins and significant milestones, and explore a range of the top 25 watches available today to the discerning buyer.

About Rectangular Watches

The origins of the rectangular wristwatch can be traced back to the early 20th century. Prior to this era, pocket watches were the preferred timekeeping devices, with wristwatches being primarily worn by women as decorative accessories. However, the practicality and convenience of wristwatches soon caught the attention of men, leading to a shift in design and the emergence of new shapes.

Pioneering Designs

One of the earliest pioneers of rectangular wristwatches was Louis Cartier, a prominent figure in the watchmaking industry. In 1904, Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont, named after the famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. 

This groundbreaking timepiece featured a rectangular case, making it one of the first commercially successful rectangular wristwatches for men. The Santos-Dumont’s sleek and geometric design set the stage for future rectangular watches to come.

Art Deco Era

The Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s further popularized rectangular wristwatches. This era celebrated bold geometric shapes, clean lines, and a modern aesthetic, which aligned perfectly with the design philosophy of rectangular watches. 

Art Deco-inspired timepieces featured rectangular cases adorned with intricate details, such as diamond accents, enamel work, and contrasting color combinations. These watches became symbols of luxury and refinement, appealing to fashion-conscious individuals around the world.

The Rise of Icons

In the mid-20th century, rectangular wristwatches reached new heights of popularity with the introduction of iconic models. One such timepiece was the Cartier Tank, introduced in 1917, which featured a rectangular case inspired by the shape of military tanks. 

The Tank became synonymous with elegance and style, worn by influential personalities as wide-ranging as Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Diana, Steve McQueen, and even Andy Warhol. Other renowned rectangular watches, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and the Patek Philippe Gondolo, solidified the rectangular timepiece as a timeless accessory.

Modern Interpretations

With the advent of modern technology and contemporary design trends, rectangular wristwatches have continued to evolve while retaining their classic allure. Luxury watch brands and independent watchmakers have embraced innovative materials, intricate complications, and artistic craftsmanship to create unique interpretations of rectangular watches. 

These timepieces blend tradition with modernity, attracting a new generation of watch enthusiasts seeking distinctive aesthetics and exceptional craftsmanship.

Should You Buy A Rectangular Watch?

For the modern buyer, a rectangular watch is an attractive proposition on many levels. If you find yourself drawn to the aesthetic beauty of a timepiece, appreciate design outside the established norm, or overall enjoy the classic, confident look of a rectangular watch, it’s something to definitely consider. 

Rectangular watches often attract buyers with a sense of style and flair and usually pair well with a suit or dress shirt. They’ll also add a touch of class and edge when paired with jeans and a T-shirt and look just as at home in sweatpants (it’s a vibe) as in a tuxedo.

Though capable as a “one-watch collection”, a rectangular watch may also work best within a rotation of watches for those seeking a less dressy feel and a steel bracelet (many rectangular watches are paired with leather bands, after all) every now and then. With all that said, let’s jump in.

The Best Rectangular Watches

1. Seiko SUP896P9

When deciding if a rectangular-shaped watch is for you, the Seiko SUP896P9 is an excellent option with its approachable pricing and idyllic sizing. Don’t be put off by the 28.1mm width (7.4mm thickness). Rectangular watches will often wear larger than their circular counterparts, contrary to what the measurements imply, and the Seiko is no exception.

With an attractive champagne-colored dial and gold case, the SUP896 is paired with a brown leather strap (20mm lug width), which can be swapped out for higher-quality options if desired. Most interestingly, the watch features Seiko’s V115 Caliber Solar Powered quartz movement, providing the convenience of a “grab and go” watch in that the user won’t need to set it up often.

And, if this is your first rectangular-styled watch in a larger overall collection, or perhaps your rarely worn dress occasion watch, that convenience will be appreciated as you won’t have to set it each time you decide to wear it.

Retail Price: $215.00

2. Void Watches V02MKII

Founded in 2008 by Swedish designer David Ericsson, VOID Watches is a brand that has successfully captured its own sense of individuality and design ethos in a short amount of time. In their own words, the V02MKII, for example, was “designed to be clever, not smart”, and features an unusual three-compass needle hand layout. 

Time is told by matching the color of the hands with the same colored digit on the dial in such a way that “reminds us about the value and passage of time”, contrary to the ease and quickness of high legibility. Sized at 36mm in width, 8.4mm thick, and 42mm in height, the watch wears broadly across the wrist and is a certified conversation starter.

Retail Price: $265 – $295.00

3. Brew 8-Bit Rectangular Watch

A darling of the smaller independent brands in the affordable price point, Brew has become a household name in watch collecting circles due to their strong sense of design and thoughtful details often tied to founder Jonathan Ferrer’s interests (even the name is inspired by his love of coffee). 

The 8-Bit Brew is no exception. Measuring 38mm in width, 10.4mm thick, and 41.5mm in height, the watch is an ode to classic 8-bit arcade games with a quirky use of video game-like fonts, colors, and even sub-dial second hands as a hybrid meca-quartz chronograph (“PRESS START” and “PRESS RESET” are cleverly engraved on the caseback for each respective pusher). When nostalgia and design collide, this is the watch for you.

Retail Price: $395.00

4. Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way (ref. 98A261)

Frank Sinatra is well known for wearing Bulova timepieces throughout his iconic life and entertainment career. Indeed, in the 1950s, Bulova was even a sponsor of the Frank Sinatra Show on television. Due to this famed partnership and pairing, Bulova continues to produce the “Frank Sinatra” special collection of watches to pay tribute to the man himself across various vintage-inspired Bulova designs in the modern day. 

The “My Way” reference 98A261 is one such example, featuring a gold-tone rectangular case (29.5mm width, 9mm thickness, 47mm height) with the performer’s signature Fedora hat (on the gold-tone crown) and “My Way” stamped on the rear of the watch and deployant buckle. All these design flourishes aside, the 98A261 is an attractive gold-tone option with classic styling from a historic watch brand.

Retail Price: $550.00

5. Raymond Weil Toccata Rectangular (ref. 5425-PC-00300)

Founded in 1976, at the height of the “quartz crisis” of the Swiss watch industry, Raymond Weil has long sought to incorporate the beauty and art of music within his watchmaking designs. The Toccata Rectangular (reference 5425-PC-00300) is, in this vein, named after the Italian word for “touch”, based on rapid keyboard composition, which demonstrates the technique or ability of a skilled musician. 

As such, the Toccata is a yellow gold PVD plated wristwatch (37mm width, 6.4mm thickness, 29mm height) with artistic bevels and punctuated black Roman numerals decorating a white dial in high contrast. The design is refined and suggests the same technique and ability of its namesake for the brand. Featuring the ease of a quartz movement, and a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the Toccata is additionally water resistant to 50m.

Retail Price: $1,150.00

6. Hamilton American Classic Boulton Small Second Quartz (ref. H13421611)

The Hamilton watch company was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. The brand played a significant role in the development of the American watch industry. Over the years, Hamilton became known for its precise timekeeping and innovative designs, earning a reputation as a respected and iconic watchmaker. 

As an innovator in design, the Boulton line of watches was first manufactured in 1940, combining a uniquely American classic style with Art Deco, as characterized by the almost tonneau-shaped case’s curved lugs, and elegant elongated case (27.3mm width, 8.21mm thickness, 31.1mm height). 

The watch features a small seconds hand subdial at the six o’clock position and is powered by a quartz movement. Despite the modern tech and construction, the Boulton has a classic look as if pulled out of your grandfather’s old drawer from decades ago.

Retail Price: $645.00

7. Frederique Constant Classics Carrée Automatic (ref. FC-303N4C6)

Frederique Constant was established in 1988 by Aletta Bax and Peter Stas in Geneva, Switzerland. The brand quickly gained recognition for its commitment to classic and elegant timepieces at accessible prices. The brand’s passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail propelled its success, earning Frederique Constant a prominent position in the luxury watch market worldwide. 

With the development of the Carrée, the brand chose to highlight the elegance of 1920s design, in line with this brand philosophy. Impressive case finishing and a blue guilloche dial at this level of execution are rare for the price point. And measuring 30.4mm in width, 9.71mm in thickness, and 33.3mm in height, the watch is indeed a modern, contemporary take and fit with clear echoes of the past in design. Finally, the timepiece is powered by an automatic SW-200 movement.

Retail Price: $995.00

8. Longines DolceVita Silver Dial (ref. L5.512.4.71.0)

Longines, a renowned Swiss watchmaker founded in 1832, has a rich history spanning over 180 years. With a legacy of innovation and precision, Longines has become synonymous with elegance and performance. From pioneering advancements in watchmaking to iconic designs, Longines continues to symbolize timeless luxury and craftsmanship, and the DolceVita line of watches is no exception. 

As an homage to “the sweetness of life”, the watch features softened lines and a billowing engraving radiating from the center of the silver dial. The Roman Numerals from one to twelve spanning the dial add a sense of classicism, in contrast to the quartz caliber L176 movement powering the watch without much use of effort on the wearer’s part. A classic option for the smaller to medium-sized wrist, measuring 23.3mm in width, 7.2mm in thickness, and 37mm in height.

Retail Price: $1,425.00

9. NOMOS Glashütte Tetra (ref. 408)

NOMOS Glashütte is a German watch manufacturer established in 1990. In its relatively short history, the brand has made a significant impact on the watch industry. Known for their minimalist Bauhaus-like designs and in-house movements, NOMOS combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, garnering global recognition for their exceptional quality and modern timepieces, even garnering the admiration of industry legend Philippe Dufour. 

At its core, the Tetra (reference 408) clearly expresses the clean, no-frills Bauhaus design. Sparing in busy detail, the watch is square-like in shape (29.5mm width, 6.3mm thickness, 29.5mm height to be exact), and one is drawn immediately to the clean dial decorated with sans serif numerals and a sparse second sub-dial register at six o’clock. 

Don’t be fooled by the simple design; NOMOS manufacturing is Germanic in its precise execution and beauty underneath, with the in-house manual wound Alpha caliber providing up to 43 hours of power reserve on a full wind, finished to a high standard.

Retail Price: Starting at $2,080 (stainless steel back, leather strap)

10. Baume & Mercier Hampton 10528

Baume & Mercier, a distinguished Swiss watchmaker established in 1830, boasts a rich history of crafting exquisite timepieces. From its beginnings in the Jura Mountains to becoming a renowned international brand, Baume & Mercier has consistently upheld its values of tradition, innovation, and elegance.

Known for blending Swiss watchmaking expertise with contemporary design, the brand has garnered a loyal following. With a commitment to quality and a legacy spanning over 190 years, Baume & Mercier continues to create timepieces that embody timeless sophistication.

The Hampton 10528 is a handsome example of the brand ethos, featuring a rectangular case (31mm width, 48.1mm height), a small seconds sub-dial, and a date window at six o’clock. On the rear of the case, the automatic 27 jewel movement is visible, while mixed opaline texture and riveted black ruthenium indexes on the front side provide a confident, masculine look.

Retail Price: $2,950.00

11. Oris Rectangular White Dial (ref. 01 561 7783 4061-07 5 19 15)

Oris, a Swiss watch company established in 1904, has a fascinating history rooted in its dedication to quality and precision. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has become a renowned name in mechanical watches. Known for its functional designs and reliable movements, Oris has navigated the industry’s challenges with resilience. 

Embracing their independence, Oris has consistently delivered timepieces that embody Swiss craftsmanship and offer exceptional value, earning the admiration of watch enthusiasts worldwide. 

The Rectangular line of watches is heavily influenced by the Art Deco style, as evidenced by the case shape (25.5mm width, 38mm height) and dial design, with a railroad track-like design notating the seconds and minutes along the axis of the dial. The watch features a mineral glass case back, displaying the in-house Oris caliber 561 featuring time and date.

Retail Price: $2,050.00

12. Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton (ref. R27126012)

Rado, a Swiss watch brand founded in 1917, has a remarkable history of innovation and design. Pioneering the use of high-tech materials such as ceramic, Rado has consistently pushed boundaries in watchmaking. Renowned for their sleek and modern aesthetics, Rado timepieces combine Swiss precision with cutting-edge materials to create durable and distinctive watches that have gained global recognition and popularity. 

The True Square Automatic Skeleton is such an example, with its monobloc 38mm width case (9.7mm thickness) made of polished white ceramic. The eye-catching R808 movement is skeletonized, with a yellow gold colored bridge and nickel-colored top plate contrasting the white vertical brushed background in a unique pattern that only Rado could conjure up.

For those looking for the classic shape of a rectangular case in completely modern high-tech execution, the Rado True Square Skeleton is your bet.

Retail Price: $2,800.00

13. Vieren Black Croc Leather Watch

Founded in Toronto in 2020, Vieren is a microbrand aiming to lead the next generation of watch-making and entrepreneurship at the helm of founder Jess Chow and creative director Sunny Fong (Winner of Project Runway Canada).

Chow, whose family holds over 40 years of luxury watchmaking history, is afforded direct access to a watchmaking studio in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, allowing a bespoke-like level of customization and craftsmanship in each watch they produce. 

The Black Croc Leather watch was designed to be a daily wearer, but its design is not of the ordinary variety. Inspired by leather as a material, the dial itself is an extension of the black croc leather strap, accentuated by light yet subtle execution.

Using leather as a dial material is no easy feat. It must be ultra-thin and finished meticulously to ensure proper form, function, and durability. The watch is sure to make a statement, yet it wears slim and comfortable on most wrists (27mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41.5mm height).

Retail Price: From $1,950

14. Cartier Tank Must (ref. CRWSTA0041)

When speaking of rectangular watches, perhaps none is more prolific or enduring as the Cartier Tank. With a storied history dating back to 1917, the original Tank was inspired by the design of tanks used in World War I. A rectangular case, parallel lines, and a distinctive crown were the result of Louis Cartier’s imaginings. 

Quickly becoming a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the following years and decades, the Tank collection has expanded to include various models and variations while maintaining its timeless classic aesthetic. In 2021, the Tank “Must” returned as a reinterpretation of the 1970s classic.

In particular, the Tank Must Large (reference CRWSTA0041) features a steel case (25.5mm width, 6.6mm thickness, 33.7mm height) with a high autonomy quartz movement inside and the iconic looks of the Roman Numerals circling the outer perimeter of the dial set against an iconic silvered dial with blued-steel sword shape hands—a classic for a reason and the true standard bearer of the style.

Retail Price: $3,100.00 (Leather strap)

15. Hermès Cape Cod 41mm

Hermès, the renowned French luxury brand, ventured into watchmaking in the late 1920s. Since then, their watches have blended Swiss precision with exquisite craftsmanship. With a focus on design, Hermès has created timepieces that embody elegance and style. Known for their iconic straps and distinctive dials, Hermès watches have established a reputation for combining timeless aesthetics with the brand’s legendary heritage of luxury and refinement. 

The Cape Cod line of watches, and in particular, the 41mm, is one such execution. With a 33mm width and 41mm height, the case is most distinctive in its “wired” look, with the lugs on either side extending past the dial following the curve of a softened rectangular shape, evoking a strong sense of identity and design not seen with more traditional watchmakers who stick to the typical shapes and case aesthetic. 

The sense of design continues with the Arabic numerals in a bold yet subtle font and a date feature on the three o’clock side of the dial, which does its best not to undermine symmetry with its use of a white background wheel. Powered by a Swiss-Made quartz movement, the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar.

Retail Price: $3,375.00

16. TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf (ref. CBL2115.FC6494)

The Tag Heuer Monaco watch has a captivating history that began in 1969. It gained worldwide fame as the first square and water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. The Monaco then achieved iconic status when Steve McQueen wore it in the film “Le Mans”, epitomizing the look of the cool and sporty watch design.

Throughout the years, Tag Heuer has continued to evolve the Monaco, introducing various iterations and limited editions while retaining its distinct square shape and vintage-inspired design. Today, the Tag Heuer Monaco remains an emblem of daring innovation and timeless style in the world of luxury watches.

The Monaco X Gulf (reference CBL2115.FC6494), in particular, represents the historical relationship between Heuer and Gulf, merging the logos of both in its usage of blue tones and orange. As a winner of the “Iconic Watch Prize” of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) in 2022, this design sense has not gone unnoticed. 

Design chops and accolades aside, the watch features the Caliber HEUER02 Automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve for the automatic chronograph movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. A true combination of sport and elegant design.

Retail Price: $7,800.00

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

In the annals of historic and trailblazing rectangular-shaped watch design, the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso ranks right at the top with the Cartier Tank in historic importance and cultural legacy. Launched in 1931, the story goes that the Reverso was originally designed for polo players.

It featured a unique reversible case to protect the delicate dial during matches, with the user able to flip between either side of the case depending on usage. The Reverso’s Art Deco aesthetic and innovative concept quickly garnered attention. 

Over the years, it has evolved into an enduring icon of horology, appreciated for its elegant versatility. The Reverso collection expanded to include various complications and designs while staying true to its signature reversible case.

Perhaps the truest to this original design is the Tribute Small Seconds (reference Q713842J), with its simplified focus on the small seconds and opaline dial (in contrast to the high-level complications featured on other models).

The rear of the case is left blank, enabling space for custom engravings to further personalize the watch for your own. Own the emblematic watch from “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”, with the JLC Reverso. (Case size 27.4mm width, 8.51mm thickness, 45.6mm height)

Retail Price: $9,600.00

18. Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (ref. 1-37-02-08-02-62)

The history of Glashütte Original watches is deeply rooted in the German town of Glashütte, renowned for its horological heritage. Founded in 1845, the brand has endured tumultuous times, including wars and political shifts.

Despite these challenges, Glashütte Original persevered and established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. Their timepieces feature in-house movements, showcasing their dedication to watchmaking traditions and technical prowess. 

Today, Glashütte Original continues to create exquisite watches, embodying the spirit of German watchmaking excellence and timeless design. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, as such, recalls the dynamism and gentle curves of the eponymous decade with unmistakable retro quality and character.

A sizable watch at 40mm in width, 14.1mm thick, and 40mm in height, it is also a capable one despite the fine level of finishing and chronograph functions, with a sporty 10 bar water resistance. 

Technical features abound, with over 70 hours of power reserve and a display case back showcasing the in-house caliber 37-02 with hour and minute, stop second flyback chronograph, small seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter functionality, alongside a Panorama date. A powerhouse in design, function, and capability.

Retail Price: $13,400.00

19. Piaget Emperador Black Tie (ref. G0A33070)

The history of Piaget watches began in 1874 when Georges Edouard Piaget established his first workshop in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland. Initially known for producing high-precision movements, Piaget soon expanded into creating complete timepieces.

In the 1950s, they gained recognition for their ultra-thin watches, setting numerous records in slimness. Piaget’s expertise in watchmaking and jewelry led to the development of iconic models like the Piaget Polo and the Piaget Altiplano. 

Today, Piaget continues to craft exquisite timepieces that blend technical mastery with artistic elegance, solidifying their position as a leading name in luxury Swiss watchmaking. Among such iconic models, the Emperador is a particularly handsome addition, with its Guilloche sunburst motif dial and elegant blend of curves and straight lines alongside the corners of the 18K rose gold case.

An 18K rose gold Piaget coat-of-arms adorns the dial, with a small seconds display positioned at ten o’clock and a power reserve indicator at the six o’clock position. (Measurements: 32mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41mm height)

Retail Price: $22,800.00

20. H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp (ref. 5324-1205)

The history of H. Moser & Cie watches dates back to 1828, when Heinrich Moser founded the brand in St. Petersburg, Russia. Renowned for their exquisite timepieces, Moser watches became favored by Russian royalty and high society. After relocating to Switzerland in 1848, the brand continued to thrive.

Throughout the years, H. Moser & Cie has committed to traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Their watches feature sophisticated designs and intricate movements, combining technical expertise with understated elegance. 

Helmed by Edouard Meylan, Moser of today often incorporates quirky details and conceptual design, of which the Swiss Alp reference 5324-1205 is no exception. A satirical take on a certain ubiquitous “smart watch”, the watch is rectangular in shape (38.2mm width, 44mm height), encased in a DLC steel case with an incredibly dark Vantablack dial (the darkest man-made material ever made) which can be compared to looking into a black hole. 

A turning small seconds disk at six o’clock resembles a loading symbol of a digital device, and a power reserve indicator is displayed on the rear to keep the dial side altogether uncluttered. Limited to 50 pieces and long since sold out, one must look to the secondary market to obtain this prolific watch.

Retail Price: $45,000.00

21. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)

The history of Vacheron Constantin watches is a remarkable journey that began in 1755, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers in existence. Founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the brand quickly gained a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces of exceptional quality.

Throughout the centuries, Vacheron Constantin has remained committed to precision, innovation, and artistic craftsmanship. Their watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, dignitaries, and connoisseurs worldwide. 

With a rich heritage and a tradition of technical excellence, Vacheron Constantin continues to create timepieces that merge traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, solidifying its status as a prestigious and revered name in the world of haute horology. The American 1921, in particular, reinterprets a model launched in 1921 for the American market during the so-called “Roaring Twenties”. 

Upon seeing the watch, one is immediately drawn to the rotated dial alignment and crown at the top of the top right side of the pink gold case (40mm width, 8.06mm thickness, 40mm height). This diagonal reading of the time enables the wearer to read at a glance without needing to turn the wrist, and the black-painted Arabic numerals with small seconds at three and four o’clock provide an exquisite touch to an already attractively unique design.

Retail Price: $36,800.00

22. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (ref. 645.QL.7117.RX)

Hublot, a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, has made a significant impact on the watch industry. However, it was under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver in the early 2000s that Hublot experienced a transformative period. In 2005, Hublot introduced its groundbreaking and iconic timepiece, the Big Bang.

With its distinctive design, combining a bold and robust case with a fusion of materials, the Big Bang became an instant sensation. It symbolized the fusion of tradition and innovation, embodying Hublot’s philosophy of the “Art of Fusion.” 

The Big Bang’s success propelled Hublot’s rise to prominence, solidifying its position as a trailblazing brand in the luxury watch market. In the Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (reference 645.QL.7117.RX), we find a watch made of carbon fiber, blue composite material, and sapphire in typical Hublot skeletonized form. Sized at 42mm, the watch features a tourbillon movement along with hours, minutes, and power reserve functionality. A true mix of high horology complication with forward-thinking modern materials.

Retail Price: $100,000.00

23. Richard Mille RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold

Richard Mille, established in 2001, has quickly become synonymous with cutting-edge technology, avant-garde design, and exceptional craftsmanship in the years since its inception. Founded by Richard Mille himself, the brand pushed the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, incorporating innovative materials and high-tech advancements.

Among Richard Mille’s prolific collection is the RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch. Introduced in 2007, it exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and elegance. The RM016 features an ultra-thin white gold case, measuring 8.25mm thick (38mm width, 50mm height), showcasing Richard Mille’s mastery of slim watchmaking. The movement, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensures remarkable accuracy and reliability. 

The RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch reflects Richard Mille’s dedication to merging technical excellence with sophisticated aesthetics. It embodies the brand’s philosophy of creating visually striking and exceptionally engineered timepieces, cementing Richard Mille’s position as a pioneer in modern luxury watchmaking.

Retail Price: $60,000.00

24. A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 703.048)

Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in the town of Glashütte, the brand became renowned for crafting exquisite pocket watches. However, World War II and subsequent political changes led to the company’s closure in 1948.

It wasn’t until 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, that Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, revived the brand. A. Lange & Söhne quickly reestablished itself as a German precision and craftsmanship symbol, crafting exceptional timepieces characterized by intricate movements, exquisite finishing, and timeless design. 

The Cabaret line, in particular, was originally introduced in 1997 as the brand’s first rectangular watch but was discontinued in 2013 after poor sales performance. Revived in 2021 as a limited number of 30 production pieces, the reference 703.048 Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is made of 950 platinum (29.5mm width, 10.3mm thickness, 39.2mm height), embellished in Art Deco-inspired designs such as smooth rounded corners and a stepped bezel. 

An oversized date is featured at twelve o’clock, with a power reserve at four, running seconds at eight, and the enchanting tourbillon at six. All finished to the utmost degree of perfection, the hand engraving (tremblage) and black polish throughout the watch furniture, case, and dial is a triumph of watchmaking skill.

Retail Price: EUR 315,200 (limited to 30 numbered pieces)

25. ArtyA Watches 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon

When Yvan Arpa, founder and president of ArtyA, debuted the 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon in 2016, it was most certainly the watchmaker’s most complicated watch ever. Encased in pink gold and titanium (measuring 47.3mm in width, 18.1mm thick, and 64.6mm in height), Arpa sought to expand his Son of Sound collection with a minute repeater.

Arpa wanted to amplify the sound of his movement and designed the main plate to resemble the Gretsch guitar, by which the sound is inspired. The minute repeater itself has three gongs. One to acknowledge system engagement, another for hours, another for the minutes, and two striking sounds for the quarter hours. As if the focus on sound amplification wasn’t enough, the sapphire back of the watch is designed to add volume to the sound and allow the tourbillon to turn on a secondary axis.

Customers at the time were able to work with the brand’s master watchmaker to further customize the tone of the sound, to fit their preferences exactly. As a work of art and sound, the 3 Gongs required over one thousand hours of hand work to produce and assemble.

Retail Price: 480,000 CHF

26. Patek Philippe Gondolo Collection (ref. 7041R)

As mentioned earlier, you can’t talk about rectangular watches without mentioning the Gondolo Collection from Patek Philippe. The brand name speaks for itself, but the 7041R from the collection stands out as a personal favorite.

It holds a signature Gondolo look in the case and dial but offers a unique twist of its own at the same time. When it comes to the specs, it’s the rose gold case and classic aspects of the watch that catch my eye the most.

Of course, the watch is much more than that, featuring a precise Caliber 215 PS movement, a finely grained dial, and more. I also have to mention the diamond-set flange here, which includes 108 diamonds and reflects from every angle.

I’m also a huge fan of the sizing for the case. This may have been just the luck of the draw, but the 30 x 33.8mm case feels like the perfect fit. You also get the benefit of a sapphire crystal case back, which highlights both durability and beauty.

Between the detailed craftsmanship and stylish beauty, this is a timepiece that’s meant to last more than one lifetime. I believe this is truly reflected in every aspect, from the engineering and materials all the way down to the asking price.

Retail Price: $35,000 to $40,000 USD

In Conclusion

The history of rectangular wristwatches spans over a century, marked by innovation, artistic expression, and enduring elegance. From the pioneering designs of Louis Cartier to the iconic status of the Cartier Tank, these timepieces have evolved from functional tools to symbols of style and refinement. 

Modern rectangular watches continue to captivate watch lovers with their timeless appeal, combining heritage and contemporary design elements. Whether worn as a statement piece or a daily companion, the rectangular wristwatch remains an embodiment of sophistication and timeless elegance.

I last visited Detroit several years ago, and while it still has some great architecture and beautiful old homes along Lake Michigan, it’s a rather depressing place. So, if any American city needs a break and some economic opportunity, it’s Detroit.

Stepping into the jobs vacuum in recent years is Shinola Watches (although they also sell bicycles, leather goods, and other products). Billed as an upstart micro-brand but actually founded by the man behind the billion-dollar watch brand Fossil, Shinola has made a big deal about being “American Built” and their watch factory in Detroit.

This mission of being a part of the city’s revitalization has become a central theme of Shinola’s narrative and public relations strategy. They have even convinced two American presidents (Bill Clinton and Barack Obama) to sing their praises. 

Are Shinola’s claims of being American-Made as true as Honest Abe, or are they as phony as a three-dollar bill? Perhaps more importantly, are they a good value-for-the-money alternative to some of the more well-established luxury watch brands?

About Shinola Watches

While they’re billed as an American micro-brand, they’re hardly a “David among Goliaths”, when one considers that Shinola was founded by Tom Kartsotis in 2011, the man behind Fossil watches, and the company is currently owned by Texas-based Bedrock Group LP (a company that purportedly has more the two billion in assets under its management). 

Shinola has differentiated itself by making a wide-ranging collection of Americana watches with a vintage flair. One of their most well-known collections is the Runwell, a favorite of former American President Bill Clinton (who reportedly owns thirteen Shinola watches, including the Runwell). The Runwell is a great example of the brand’s classic, sturdy design cues, accurate quartz movements, and all-American looks. 

The Vinton is another popular Shinola collection featuring classic inspirations with trendy accents. Known for their unique color options and guilloché dial patterns, the dress timepieces give off an up-market sense of style. 

The Canfield Sport collection offers something for the outdoorsy and active types, with their durability, water-resistant features, and useful chronographs. 

Shinola is viewed by some watch enthusiasts and experts with skepticism. However, they’ve gained a loyal niche following that appreciates their American manufacturing narrative and cause, in addition to their build quality, style, and attention to detail. 

Their watches are priced higher than many of their mid-luxury watch competitors, and this has led some to question their value, especially when considering the discrepancies in their American Built story with the reality of their mixed third-party, foreign parts. 

The History of Shinola

In 1907, the Shinola brand was born, first as a shoe polish company, but in 2011 the brand was revived as a watchmaker in Detroit. Their mission was to do more than just create quality, stylish Americana watches. They were trying to do their bit to kick off a movement to revitalize the city of Detroit, which has been hollowed out by outsourcing manufacturing jobs overseas.

Shinola is known for making unique, vintage American-style watches. One way Shinola has distinguished itself is through its collaborations with celebrated American designers and artists. The collections and limited-edition timepieces they’ve created have furthered their esteem as a curator of the cultural heritage of the city and its artists. It’s also garnered a following among collectors.

They’ve diversified their business platform by branching out into other product lines, including jewelry, leather goods, audio equipment, and a hotel. This effort has attempted to demonstrate that Shinola is more than just a watchmaker. This has been a long-term strategy by the company’s leadership to position Shinola as a luxury lifestyle brand.

Despite their challenges and controversies, Shinola is still a formidable competitor in the mid-range luxury watch market. They’ve managed to find a niche following of loyal customers, and they’ve turned Detroit into a luxury brand, which is an accomplishment of sorts.

Are Shinola Watches Good?

Shinola watches have been praised by the likes of former Presidents Bill Clinton and Barack Obama, former Prime Minister David Cameron of the UK, and American billionaire and owner of the Washington Commanders, Dan Snyder, among others.

They’ve also created some unique collections with local artists that are a diverse celebration of the city they represent. But they’ve also faced their share of criticism, as some see them as little more than a marketing ploy, with audacious ambitions yet lacking the business fundamentals to back up their bravado. 

Not Really “Made In The US”

Despite their claims of revitalizing American manufacturing, it seems their watches are only assembled in the US. The movements are sourced from Switzerland, and many of the components are purportedly a mix of third-party parts from Europe, China, and Thailand. 

When questioned about this, the company has argued (and I’m paraphrasing) that the laws are different for watches than, say, cars, and their claims are technically and legally accurate. To be fair, their timepieces are stamped with the phrase “Built in America”, not “Made in America”. However, whether their claims of American-Built are less than honest is for the watch-buying public to decide.  

What is the Shinola watch controversy?

This is what led to the controversy behind the brand over the years. It even came down to a back-and-forth with the Federal Trade Commission back in 2016. After that point, Shinola wasn’t able to keep up their marketing facade any longer. The truth behind the brand isn’t a deal breaker for everyone, but it definitely had an effect on how people viewed them.

More specifically, a lot of Shinola’s parts come from a brand called Ronda AG, which is a Swiss company. Public perception aside, the brand has still come a long way and is still actively operating. While the controversy is entirely understandable, it was likely a hard lesson for the company at the time. 

For casual watch lovers, they likely wouldn’t have ever picked up on this issue. However, you can bet on enthusiasts to find every pro, con, and truth about a watch with enough time. Over the years, the brand has done well and maintained a strong position in the market. 

People still love what they have to offer, and a lot of that initial skepticism has subsided since. Nevertheless, it’s a great example of why you should look into the fine print and try not to shop based on looks alone.

Little To No Actual Heritage

In the world of horology, a watchmaker’s heritage counts for a lot. For watch collectors and enthusiasts, there’s more to consider than a watch’s style and perceived build quality. Their history matters to many because it’s a company’s story, and that story identifies the culture and ideals of a company and its founders. 

It’s also a track record of the company’s accomplishments, demonstrating whether they’ve lived up to their stated ideals. This heritage shapes the company’s brand and image in the public’s minds and often is a major determining factor in whether their timepieces will serve as a good, long-term investment. 

Many critics have argued that Shinola has no real heritage. Their argument generally goes like this. Shinola’s founders took an old shoe polish brand totally unrelated to watchmaking and tried to artificially capture the nostalgia of America’s past with their designs and promises to revitalize Detroit.

Yet they’ve fallen short of those promises and have no real connection to a deep watchmaking history. All this speaks to an issue of credibility in the minds of their critics.

Not Great Value For The Money

Typically, a watch micro brand aims to deliver high-quality luxury timepieces for a lower price, making them more attainable to a broader audience. They often keep their collections in the sub-$1,000 category without sacrificing quality materials and solid automatic movements. 

Considering this, Shinola watches aren’t exactly a deal, at least in the minds of some critics. They’re priced as a mid-range luxury watch brand, yet many of their models that are $500-plus models come with cheap, mass-produced quartz movements and other inexpensive third-party parts.

Some simply think there are better options out there and expect more from a mid-range luxury watch at that price point. There’s another side to the story, however. It’s important to acknowledge some of Shinola’s stronger points.  

Several Unique & Tasteful Designs 

Even if the brand isn’t your style, it’s pretty hard to argue that they lack style. Many of their designs are clean and elegant, and some of the dials and color combinations are downright eye-catching. 

At the very least, they should be respected as a fashion brand, considering their ability to consistently balance vintage vibes with modern touches and the diverse representations of their limited editions, birthed from partnerships with local artistry, which perfectly capture the city’s special heritage. 

Decent Build Quality

While the watch experts can take their swipes at the brand’s movements, their cases and dials are well-finished. Often the straps and bracelets are of respectable quality, as well. The timepieces are also both accurate and relatively durable. Most of their products show care and attention to detail when it comes to the exteriors of the watches that most will see and feel.

Most Notable Shinola Watch Collections

Shinola Runwell

The Runwell is arguably Shinola’s most popular collection. It’s available in a wide variety of combinations. The timepiece is Shinola’s take on a field watch, and I think the designs are relatively handsome. One can select a case size of 41mm or 47mm.

The cases come in stainless steel, titanium, gunmetal, and yellow gold plated, among others. Most of the dials feature Arabic numerals, but they come in a plethora of colors, from shades of blue, green, black, silver, gray, white, soft yellow, and orange. 

Some have leather, fabric, or rubber straps; others have stainless steel, PVD-coated options, and titanium bracelets. Some are simple three-hand watches, others are chronographs, and some come with a date display. There are options for quartz movements at a lower price point or automatic movements at a higher price point. Prices range from the upper $500s to over $1,500.

The materials and finishing work speak to the quality of the timepieces. There are contrasting polished and satin finishes on the cases. Some of the leather straps have contrasting hand-stitching. Most of the straps come with a simple tang buckle. Some of the bracelets are brushed and offer twin-release butterfly clasps.  Overall, the Runwell presents well and seems durable.

Shinola Monster

Their Monster collection of sports watches is tough and made for those that like to play hard. Some in the collection are designed for pilots and world travelers with GMT tools, yet others are divers. The cases come in sizes of 40mm, 43mm, and 45mm and materials ranging from carbon to brushed titanium to stainless steel. 

They offer rotating bezels for diving or GMT that, in some cases, feature ceramic inserts. The dials come in a variety of colors, like black, white, shades of blue, shades of green, and orange. Some have indices, others have a mix of Roman numerals and indices, and all of them have date windows. 

The collection includes bracelets of titanium and steel. Many of the bracelets offer micro-adjustment. Others have leather, rubber, or fabric straps. All of the timepieces in this collection are equipped with automatic movements, primarily from Sellita, and some are superior, while others are more basic. 

They all feature screw-down crowns, with the divers boasting a water resistance of 300 meters, while most of the others are resistant to 100 meters. MSRPs range from mid-$1600s to nearly $3,000.  

Shinola Canfield

The Canfield is a collection of sporty yet refined timepieces from Shinola for both men and women. The watches straddle the line between dressy and sporty. Some of the timepieces in this collection have similar style cues to their Runwell line, with some notable distinctions, such as unique leather straps in colors like oxblood (a kind of purple-brown). 

Most in the collection feature quartz movements, though one is automatic. The one automatic comes with a Sellita movement with a 56-hour power reserve. Most are two and three-register chronographs, though they have a couple of simple displays. Case sizes range from 38mm to 45mm, and while most are stainless steel, some are plated gold and steel. 

These are larger watches, as even 38mm is fairly large for a woman’s watch. Many traditionalists would consider even their smaller 38mm offerings to be typically a size for men. The dials come in a variety of colors: gunmetal, brown, black, blue, gray, and white. 

They either have fixed bezels or no bezel at all, and some have features like tachymeter scales. Some dial options offer a classic mother-of-pearl texture. Most have Arabic numerals and date windows. They have screw-down crowns, and some offer push buttons.

Most of them are water resistant to 50 meters, so they are sportier in design than use. The bracelet and strap materials range from ceramic to leather and metal. Some of the leather straps are perforated and have a racing design. Priced from the upper $600s to nearly $3,000 MSRP. 

Shinola Detrola

The Detrola collection is a more everyday, casual wristwatch. All of the watches in this collection have quartz movements and reasonable price points. The cases range in size from 40mm and up to 43mm. Some of the cases are steel, but mostly they’re a composite made from plastics and other recycled materials found in the ocean. 

They all have date windows. The dial colors come in: clear, natural, black, blue, green, and yellow. They’re all vibrant, fun colors, as are many of the bezels. They offer straps in nylon, rubber, silicone, and ocean plastic.

Most of them are water resistant to 50 and 100 meters. The watches in this collection are decent, everyday watches that come in exciting colors and offer a statement of one’s love for the environment. Priced from the upper $300s to the mid-$400s MSRP.  

Shinola Mechanic

This collection is a tribute to the sign painters of Detroit that referred to themselves as “Mechanics”, for their commitment to exactness and the lucidness of their messages. This collection features three timepieces, all with vintage vibes, from their domed crystal to the sign painting cues on the dial. 

They all have 39mm stainless steel cases, and they’re all simple three-hand watches. The dial color options are cream, green, and black with Roman numerals. The open case back reveals a mechanical hand-wound movement. They’re all fitted with leather straps in brown, green, and black. 

They all come with push-down crowns and 50 meters of water resistance. All three timepieces are smartly styled, and one would undoubtedly get a lot of positive comments on these. However, at a price of $1,500, it’s hard to justify when one is only getting a simple watch that offers no features other than time, including a mechanical movement, in contrast to an automatic watch that lacks a screw-down crown.  

Should You Buy a Shinola Watch?

There’s a lot to like about Shinola watches from an ascetics standpoint. They’re both modern with their simple, clean designs and yet vintage in their choice of materials and style. Before you jump in and buy any watch, it’s important to consider the pros and cons of each brand and specific model.

Shinola especially appeals to those who admire the company’s mission of revitalizing Detroit and the philosophy of bringing manufacturing jobs back to America. Wearing a Shinola timepiece will send a moral signal, letting everyone know where you stand.

Shinola also appeals to watch buyers who value fashion over a watch company’s heritage or the intricacy and complexity of a watch’s movement. Shinola really delivers on fashion-forward concepts and has positioned itself as a luxury brand that goes beyond watches.

There’s also a loyal following of collectors that value Shinola for their limited-edition timepieces, made in partnership with some talented local artists, which have captured the spirit of the city and its heritage in their designs. 

Besides the controversy of being made/built in Detroit, the main criticism of Shinola from watch experts is that they have high price points yet offer few features and lower-end movements. These are the same kinds of criticisms that a watch company like Movado has faced, by “watch snobs”, who tend to put a lower premium on fashion in watches. 

Alternatives to Shinola Watches

There are many competitors to Shinola that one might consider. We’ll identify three that are trying to capture a similar American ethos. 

Bulova

Bulova has a rich history, founded in 1875 as an American luxury watch company, they’re currently owned by Citizen, a Japanese conglomerate. The brand was first introduced to American audiences via the radio and is often remembered fondly by older American generations for its radio ads. 

They’re also known for being the company that standardized the production of watches and for developing the first fully electronic watch, with tuning-fork-based technology, which at the time allowed them to produce the most accurate timepieces in the world. 

They offer a wider range of designs, in contrast to Shinola. Bulova is priced more conservatively and gives buyers a better value-for-the-money option over Shinola. They were also a favorite of Frank Sinatra… so you can’t get more American than that.

Hamilton 

Hamilton is another company with a rich American heritage. They were founded in 1892 in Lancaster, PA. As a brand, they cemented their relationship with the American public by producing quality wristwatches for the American military during World War Two. 

They’re now owned by Swatch Group, a Swiss company, and they’re known for their build quality and the superiority and reliability of their mechanical movements. Hamilton offers classic Americana designs, like Shinola, but their movements are more highly respected by watch experts. 

BALL Watch Company

The BALL Watch Company is another watch brand with deep American roots and a connection to America’s railroad industry. They offer rugged and spirited designs and are well respected for the quality of their movements and their extensive features. Some are priced higher than Shinola, but they have many models that are in the same price range while offering more features.  

Parting Thoughts 

There’s a lot to like about Shinola, from its mission to its vintage and artistic designs. They build quality, reliable, and accurate wristwatches that have attracted the attention and admiration of a number of high-profile politicians and businesspersons. 

They’ve also attracted criticism over their claims about being built in Detroit when some argue they’re little more than assembled in the city. They disappoint others with their higher price points, lower-end movements, and lack of complex features. Ultimately, it’s up to you, the buyer. Hopefully, this article has given you enough information to help you make an informed decision. So, what do you think?

The relationship between timepieces and motorsport is undeniable. Racing watches not only capture the essence of speed and precision but also embody the spirit of adrenaline-fuelled competitions. From the roaring racetracks of yesteryear to the cutting-edge circuits of today, these timepieces have become cherished companions of drivers and enthusiasts alike.

I’ve scoured the horological landscape to curate a diverse selection of racing timers that caters to all budgets so that we can all indulge in some high-speed wrist fashion.

Changing Gears and Switching Lanes – About Racing Watches

These timekeeping dynamos are ostensibly purpose-built for petrolheads, blending cutting-edge technology with suave aesthetics, and certain definitive characteristics separate the winners from the backmarkers. 

First and foremost, their design almost always exudes a sporty flair, with bold dials and vibrant color accents that pay homage to the edgy and fast-paced world of motorsports. Striking chronograph functions take center stage, allowing drivers to time laps with precision and clarity.

But it’s not just about looks; you’ll find some serious technicality under the hood of a racing watch. From tachymeter bezels that measure speed to robust movements capable of enduring extreme G-forces, these timepieces are engineered to perform flawlessly in high-octane environments. 

Beyond the racetrack, racing watches have secured a place as coveted accessories for watch enthusiasts and style aficionados alike. So, whether you’re burning rubber on the asphalt or not, a racing watch may well be the thing your collection is missing.

The Timing of Velocity – A History of Racing Watches

The popularity of racing watches can be traced back to the mid-20th century when the racing world first began to captivate the collective imagination. As motorsports grew in prominence, watchmakers recognized the need for timepieces tailored to the needs of drivers.

One of the most impactful models in the racing watch style is the legendary Rolex Daytona. Introduced in the 1960s, this iconic chronograph instantly became synonymous with gears and glory. Its sleek design, reliable movement, and innovative tachymeter bezel allowed drivers to measure speeds with unmatched precision.

Groundbreaking timepieces such as the Daytona and the Heuer Monaco ignited a fervor for racing watches that persists to this day. Their distinctive characteristics – sporty dials, chronograph functionality, and vibrant color schemes – have become hallmarks of the genre.

The Best Racing Watches

Dan Henry 1962 Racing Chronograph

Dan Henry’s 1962 Racing Chronograph is a horological homage to the fearless racing drivers of an era where raw talent and unwavering courage defined greatness on legendary circuits like Le Mans, Silverstone, Spa, and Watkins Glen.

The 1962 boasts a tachymeter bezel and comes in three versions; the classic Panda, the rebellious Evil Panda (my favorite), or the striking Blue. With straps available in different styles and colors, you can customize this piece to your heart’s content.

At 39mm in diameter, the 1962 harks back to the traditional size of vintage racing chronographs, ensuring a nostalgic aesthetic and wearability that makes it a very approachable watch. But don’t let its vintage charm fool you – underneath the hood lies a cutting-edge Seiko caliber VK63 meca-quartz movement.

The optional date version of the 1962 showcases a clever detail inspired by its history – the 31st day is highlighted in vibrant red, serving as a reminder to adjust the date during those months with 30 days – a thoughtful touch for forgetful mooks such as myself.

Turn the timepiece over, and you’ll discover a faceted, screw-in case back engraved with the profile of the groundbreaking Maserati Tipo 60 ‘Birdcage’. As a final salute to exclusivity, an individual serial number from the limited edition of 1,962 pieces sets your Dan Henry apart from anyone else’s.

The watch comes with a retail price of $280.

Casio Edifice ECB-2000NIS-1AJR

This ECB-2000NIS-1AJR encapsulates the mesmerizing allure of the Nissan Z Super GT racer, fusing its eye-catching features with the essence of an Edifice timepiece. Inspired by the striking red-to-black transition that defines the Nissan Z #23 from front to rear, this watch boldly (and I mean boldly) exhibits the same color scheme. 

The 23-minute marker is emblazoned with a special ’23’, paying homage to Nismo’s car, while the dial design ingeniously incorporates the ‘Z’ logo found on the car’s rear fender, utilizing authentic graphic data from Nismo.

Crafted with a carbon fiber-reinforced resin case, the ECB-2000NIS-1AJR feels as tech-heavy as you’d expect a Casio of this order to. Connect your smartphone via Bluetooth to unlock a world of precision timekeeping and automatic calibration to local timezones and effortlessly fine-tune various functions through the app. 

A whole lot of features have found a home in this unapologetically loud Casio. Some will love it; others will rue the day they laid eyes on it. That’s the beauty of a watch like this – it’s not afraid to be what it is. You can find this watch for around $400.

Autodromo Prototipo Chronograph

Autodromo’s Prototipo Chronograph is a modern take on the vintage racing chronographs of the golden era of racing, with an endearingly minimalistic design. The watch recalls the curved body shapes of prototype cars from the late ’60s and early ’70s. 

With its Seiko hybrid quartz chronograph movement, the Prototipo features a 1/5 second sweep hand and instant chronograph reset. A Tachymeter scale to calculate average speed and a Pulsometer scale to calculate heart rate encircle the dial, with an unobtrusive date window at 6 o’clock. 

The Prototipo is water-resistant up to 50 meters, has a stainless steel case with sapphire crystal, and is finished with a genuine leather strap. The case features flathead caseback screws, replacing the hex screws of the original series, a fine finish that is further accented by the face’s orange hands, which match the strap to create an alluringly stylized timepiece.

The watch comes with a retail price of $595.

Seiko Speedtimer SSC813

Seiko’s SSC813 is a verified icon, boasting a classic aesthetic that blends effortlessly with modern elements. The stainless steel case, measuring a confident 42mm in diameter, exudes a sense of Japanese precision, with a brushed finish, bold pushers, and polished accents that command attention, making it the perfect companion for formal occasions and high-speed adventures.

Behind the sapphire crystal lies a captivating white dial with contrasting black sub-dials that set the stage for vibrant lume accents and provide profoundly accurate readings of elapsed time.

Powered by Seiko’s renowned quartz movement, the Speedtimer SSC813 ensures unwavering reliability. This exceptional timepiece boasts a chronograph function, allowing you to time laps or record personal bests with ease, and water resistance of up to 100 meters, in case you want to take it off-road.

The Seiko Speedtimer lineage dates back to the iconic watches used in various sporting events, including the legendary 1964 Tokyo Olympics, so there’s even a bit of historical relevance here, to boot. The watch comes with a retail price of $695.

Citizen Promaster Bullhead Racing Chronograph (ref. AV0076-00X)

This limited edition Citizen is a magnificent update of the iconic 1973 Citizen Bullhead model. With its crown and pushers positioned on the top of the case, reminiscent of a bull’s horns, this watch merges retro-inspired design with a contemporary twist, made more desirable by the fact that it’s limited to only 1,973 pieces worldwide to honor its debut year.

Driven by a meticulously hand-assembled movement, the Bullhead impresses with a 1/5-second flyback chronograph and alarm function. Its instant flyback mechanism swiftly resets the second hand to zero with a single button press. 

Additionally, the watch features a tachymeter, power reserve indicator, and date display. The vintage-inspired green dial may be the busiest dial you’ve ever seen, but it all seems to work somehow.

A standout element is the Bullhead’s leather strap, which screams ‘1970s’ thanks to its perforations which, aside from being cool as hell, promote airflow and are finished with sports green stitching and a green underside.

Powered by Citizen’s innovative Eco-Drive movement, the Bullhead uses light energy, rendering batteries unnecessary and thus filling its 45mm stainless steel case with nothing but machinery. If you’re after something a little bit out of the box, this is it.

You can find this watch for around $900.

Nezumi Voiture Chronograph (ref. VM1S.201)

In celebration of their 10-year watchmaking journey, Sweden’s Nezumi firm unveiled their inaugural mechanical chronograph, the limited edition Voiture, the most striking feature of which is the angular frames of its sub-dials.

These harken back to some older pieces, which established more aggressive face designs to contextualize the racing watch within a high-octane world. The Voiture’s 316L stainless steel case exudes timeless elegance at 40mm in diameter and with a lug-to-lug length of 47mm.

Its satin black fixed bezel showcases a refined tachymeter scale insert, while the push/pull crown proudly displays the brand’s ’N’ logo. Crafted in Germany, the Voiture is propelled by the exceptional Swiss Sellita SW510 Mb manual-wound movement, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).

Each Voiture chronograph is individually numbered between the lugs, showcasing its exclusivity and time-stamping the watch as a testament to Nezumi’s decade-long dedication to horological excellence. You can find the Nezumi Voiture Chronograph for a little over $1,000.

Yema Speedgraf (ref. YSPEE2019-AU31S)

While you may not have heard of Yema, I assure you that their Speedgraf is worth your attention. Drawing design inspiration from the heyday of racing culture, its black dial is adorned with white sub-registers and a black diver bezel, creating a striking visual contrast and a vintage character enhanced by a domed sapphire crystal and its 39mm steel case. 

Telemeter and tachymeter scales evoke the spirit of vintage auto racing, as does the red-tipped second hand, which adds a touch of flair to the dial. A stylish screw-down crown on which the YEMA logo is embossed is a lovely touch – these kinds of things scratch my collector’s itch. 

The Speedgraf comes with a vintage rally strap crafted from brown leather with large perforations reminiscent of older sports cars’ steering wheels. This helps set the watch in racer territory as it could slide into the diver realms on another strap or bracelet quite effortlessly.

Equipped with the brand-new Seiko NE86 caliber, with 34 jewels and a remarkable 45-hour power reserve, the Speedgraf is a neo-vintage chronograph that offers exceptional value for just $1,650.

Tissot Heritage 1973 (ref. T124.427.16.051.00)

For all of its childishness, this Tissot may be the most interesting watch on the list. The first thing one notices about the Heritage 1973 is not its striking panda dial but the dashes of color that punctuate it. Best seen on the black background (there’s a blue version which I definitely do not prefer), orange, red, and dark blue accents bring this otherwise ordinary watch to life.

Equipped with a tachymeter and perforated strap, the 1973 exudes a classic racing vibe with a touch of charm. An oval stainless steel case evokes a vintage feel that encases all of the joys of the watch face fittingly. Beneath it, the Valjoux A05.H31 caliber offers precise timekeeping and a remarkable power reserve.

If you’re after something a bit more playful than many of the other racing watches you’ll see on this list, I’d say go for this wonderfully lively Tissot. It’s a breath of fresh air, truly. You can usually find the Tissot Heritage 1973 for a little less than $2,500.

Longines Heritage 1973 (ref. L2.791.4.72.0)

The Heritage 1973’s stainless steel cushion-shaped case measures a refined 40mm in size, but with a case height of 14.50mm, it’s a fairly chunky watch. Despite this, I’m a fan of the black dial with silver sub-dials (the opposite is also available) and the Rhodium-plated hour markers adorned with luminous dots. 

It’s a simple yet insistent timepiece, and although I struggle to swallow the case shape (sharp corners aren’t really my thing), I have to admit that it’s undoubtedly a well-finished watch.

At a retail price of $3,250, this automatic timepiece houses the revered Longines calibre L688.2, based on the ETA A08.L01 movement, and with an impressive power reserve of 54 hours, it guarantees reliable performance. Accompanied by a black leather strap bound by contrasting stitching for a touch of elegance, the Heritage 1973 and its endless indices certainly belong on the track

Oris Williams Chronograph (ref. 01-774-7717-4154-07-8-24-50)

This Oris is a rather big boy, with a 44mm stainless steel case topped by sapphire; it showcases a tachymeter scale top ring, adding a sporty touch to its appearance. The black dial plays it relatively safe, elevated from the mundane by blue hands and crisp, white indices. The three subsidiary dials display continuous seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counters. 

It feels like a lot and very little all at once, perhaps due to the heavy impressions the case and integrated bracelet make, given that it’s a lot of steel. It comes on a bracelet but is also available on a rubber band, which I think is a worthwhile consideration. 

Powered by the automatic winding Oris 774 movement, you won’t ever have to worry about its timekeeping abilities – with its fine-timing device and stop-second function, it meets the demands of racing enthusiasts and watch aficionados alike. I mean, if it’s good enough for the Williams F1 team…

You can find this watch for around $3,300.

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Mulliner (ref. AB0118A71G1P2)

The Bentley Mulliner chronograph is a tribute to Bentley’s Continental GT Convertible Mulliner Edition, and only 1,000 pieces are available. Inspired by the interior of the luxurious Bentley GT, this chronograph features a blue alligator leather strap and blue and red accents that mirror the car’s design. 

The vertically brushed silver dial brings to mind Bentley’s Breitling dashboard clock, with complementary sets of Arabic numerals shared between the two pieces. Proudly showcased on the left side of the case is an engraved “Bentley” plate, reminiscent of the engine dashboard found in historic Bentleys. 

The self-winding mechanical movement, Breitling 01, provides precision and reliability with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. With all of this, Breitling has successfully packaged automotive luxury into a high-end timepiece.

You can find this beautiful Breitling chronograph for around $7,000.

Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey Titanium 42mm (ref. 542.NX.7071.RX)

I’ve said it a thousand times (and I’ve contradicted myself a thousand more) – I’m not really a Hublot guy. While I find many of their watches to be either too big or too ostentatious, I am constantly surprised by the anomalies in the firm’s collection. The Classic Fusion Racing is a perfect example – minimal by design, approachable in size, and utterly reliable as a timekeeper. 

The 42mm iteration is arguably the most popular version of this watch, and like all other versions, it consists of a hard titanium case and a soft rubber band. The bezel, adorned with 6 H-shaped titanium screws, speaks to Hublot’s sophisticated mechanical style, and the dial features a captivating satin-finished grey sunray pattern, creating a visually stunning display made all the more attractive by the lack of detail on or around it.

It bears mentioning, if you’re considering a different size, that there is a certain compositional equilibrium present on the 42mm, which the other versions don’t capture, in my opinion. It’s an intangible detail, but it’s there, and for $7,600, you don’t want to find that out after you’ve left the store.

TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

Upon its release, the original Monaco revolutionized the industry by making a boldly left-field design statement. The Monaco Calibre 11, priced at $7,800, holds a special place in horological history as an homage to its legendary origins, featuring the left-side crown that signifies the end of manual winding as a necessity. It was famously featured on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the classic racing film Le Mans and has since been coveted by collectors the world over.

A striking blue dial with horizontal steel indexes, square silver sub-dials for chronograph minutes and hours, and a date display at 6 o’clock set this watch in a paradigm of its own. Completing the racing-inspired ensemble is a seriously stylish black calfskin leather strap, specially finished to mimic the texture of racetrack asphalt.

Underneath its captivating exterior lies the Calibre 11 automatic movement, which keeps sharp time with a balance frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The Monaco is about two things and two things only – style and performance and much of what makes this timepiece great is its inherent sense of pride, which oozes from every millimeter.

Panerai Luminor Chrono Daylight Firenze (ref. PAM00224)

Although I’ve been told, not completely inaccurately, that Panerai is a bit like licorice – you either love it or you hate it – I believe that there’s an exception to every rule. In this case, it’s the Daylight Firenze, a subtle yet bold watch limited to only 100 exclusive units.

This automatic timepiece isn’t as gregarious as many Panerais, but it’s not exactly a dormouse, either. Encased in a polished 44mm steel case, the Firenze exudes a sense of strength that suggests it may survive a fiery crash, for example, completely unscathed.

The steel bezel surrounds a glistening blue dial with sub-dials and a set of lume Arabic numerals, and the screw-back case, engraved with the front of the Panerai Boutique in Florence, pays tribute to its Italian heritage while the crown lock sets this timepiece in definitive Panerai territory. 

Functionally, the watch offers hours, a calendar aperture, minutes, small seconds, and a chronograph for precision timing. The moment is in-house, and it’s impressive, to be sure, but any sense of intrigue one may get from this watch is due to the design and near-brutalist use of steel.

If you’re into Panerai, this is a new grail. If you’re not, this may be the watch that sways you. You can usually find this beautiful Panerai for under $8,000.

Omega Speedmaster Racing (ref. 329.32.44.51.01.001)

It’s all in the name, really. The Speedmaster Racing is Omega’s seminal racing watch, a tweak of the legendary Speedmaster timepiece that virtually defines the brand.

A 44.25mm stainless steel case is accentuated by a black ceramic bezel adorned with orange accents that echo orange touches on the dial and hands. In contrast, the matte black dial is encircled by a distinct racing-style minute track, which likely lends the timepiece its name.

Two sub-dials with blackened applied rings, along with a discreet date window at 6 o’clock, seamlessly blend with the dial’s color. The black leather strap features micro-perforations, unveiling an orange rubber interior, a detail I can’t help but chuckle over. The people at Omega know what they’re doing.

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9900 movement keeps things moving, and with a magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, a silicon balance spring, and dual barrels, this self-winding chronograph with a column wheel ensures accuracy and a generous power reserve of 60 hours. 

Its rhodium-plated finish features exquisite Geneva waves in arabesque, adding a touch of elegance to the high-performance heart. This is surely a standout iteration of the Speedmaster range. The watch comes with a retail price of $9,100.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Edition (ref. IW388108)

Now, with the wordiest name on the list, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph ‘Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Edition’ is an exercise in composure. There are two tones on this entire watch, aside from the titanium hue of the case; black and turquoise.

The former defines the dial, while the latter decorates it as numerals and indices. The strap matches these to complete a picture that’s best described as ‘sporty cool’. At the heart of the Petronas beats the 69385 Calibre, an exceptional IWC-manufactured movement with automatic, self-winding functionality that comprises 242 components and 33 jewels.

It’s a nifty piece of gear, no doubt. From the small hacking seconds to the IWC bracelet quick-change system, every detail of this timepiece is meticulously designed – a day and date display, as well as a chronograph function, make for consistently precise timing with a touch of flair that is guaranteed to raise eyebrows both on and off the track.

This particular racing chronograph will set you back about $10,000.

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – Ennstal-Classic 2023 Edition

Join the elite ranks of Ennstal-Classic drivers with the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – Ennstal-Classic 2023 Edition. As the official timing partner of this prestigious racing event,  you’ve got a chance to fulfill your pit-stop timer fantasies in complete style with this ticker.

Another limited edition, with only 23 pieces available, the Chronograph 1 pays homage to the original 1972 model and is powered by the COSC-certified Porsche Design Calibre WERK 01.140, which features a chronograph, day, and date display.

Encased in an understated black titanium carbide-coated housing and measuring a smidge under 40mm in diameter, the dial showcases a deep black hue with white and grey accents, capturing an infallible aesthetic. A standout structural element here is the dish shape created by how the face meets the sunken bezel (if I can call it that).

It lends a sense of charisma to an otherwise modest-looking watch, as does the spare, perforated black leather strap with a Race-Tex backing in guards red, inspired by the “Ennstal-Classic” logo. This isn’t just a watch – it’s a statement of automotive excellence.

This chronograph from Porsche Design retails for $10,500.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 (ref. 68619-4002)

A leading example of what a racing watch should look like, the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 from Chopard is a show stopper. The dial comes in a beautiful lacquered blue, in addition to a satin-brushed finish. I find myself really appreciating the bold Arabic numerals as well. 

If you’re looking for functionality, you won’t have to question; this chronograph is built to impress. The watch gives you a chronograph seconds hand, a 12-hour counter, a 30-minute counter, and visuals that show durable excellence.

This watch is an honored partnership between Chopard and Jacky Ickx, which is what inspires many of its racing designs. More specifically, it didn’t take me long to realize the watch takes inspiration from Jacky’s iconic helmet.

Other notable details I want to highlight are the 50-meter water resistance, 12.88mm case, and the 18k yellow gold screw-down crown. Between elegance, neutrality, and functionality, this watch makes for the perfect accompaniment on the track.

You can find the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 retailed at $12,100.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 126500LN)

You all know the Daytona, no doubt. It’s a name as synonymous with racing watches as it is with high-end timepieces in general. And if you know this, you also know that the bezel is the shining star of this watch, featuring a tachymetric scale molded into sleek black ceramic (denoted by the LN code at the end of the reference number). 

With the ability to measure speeds of up to 400 miles or kilometers per hour, this bezel combines high technology with a timeless design reminiscent of the iconic 1965 model. Crafted from monobloc Cerachrom, a high-tech, proprietary ceramic, it boasts corrosion resistance, scratch-proof durability, and color stability against UV rays.

The white dial showcases snailed counters, 18 ct gold applique hour markers, and Chromalight hands that emit a luminescent glow for exceptional legibility, and the central sweep seconds hand guarantees precise readings to 1/8 of a second, while two counters display lapsed time in hours and minutes. 

It’s the ultimate tool for drivers to strategize their track times flawlessly. Thrown (or gently placed) on a quintessential Oyster strap, the Daytona is an absolute icon of horology and a ceaseless inspiration to drivers and watchmakers everywhere.

The new Daytona comes with an approximate retail price of $15,000.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback (ref. 5200 1210 G52A)

Another titanium case entry – this 43mm Bathyscape showcases an exquisite blend of grace and sturdiness. What’s unique about this from the offset is the fact that it’s waterproof up to 300 meters, so when they finally popularize underwater racing, demand for this watch should shoot through the roof.

Being a marine-centric racer, this timepiece embraces the spirit of exploration with a sail-canvas strap crafted from high-quality fabric, but its comfort and durability make it an ideal companion for every journey.

I find the quadrilateral baton hands to be this watch’s most eye-catching aspect, given that they contrast the ubiquitous circular elements of the timepiece subtly yet effectively. Details like this separate the tools from the toys, and when you’re paying $17,000 for a watch, you don’t want it to feel like a toy.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive NISSAN GT-R 50th Anniversary SBGC229

This delightfully sporty Grand Seiko pays tribute to the legendary Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R race car with an unforgiving design and bountiful features.

Drawing inspiration from the iconic ‘Bayside blue’ color of the GT-R, the ceramic outer case is made of robust ceramic, paired with a lightweight high-intensity titanium inner case, and the watch’s aesthetic harmony is further enhanced by its white crocodile strap, reminiscent of the NISSAN racing livery. 

Seiko’s seminal Spring Drive movement, with a remarkable power reserve of approximately 72 hours, guarantees the height of accuracy. Operating at ±10 seconds per month (±0.5 seconds per day), it exemplifies Seiko’s passion and pursuit of technical excellence.

You can find this limited edition Grand Seiko here for $15,900.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition (ref. 81060-41-3071-1CX)

A homage to the Aston Martin Aramco Cognizant Formula One Team, this watch is limited to just 306 pieces, mirroring the total distance covered by drivers Lance Stroll and Sebastian Vettel at the 2022 British Grand Prix.

The 44mm case is a groundbreaking fusion of titanium powder and carbon extracted from actual F1 race cars used during the 2021 season. Combining these elements with a tinted resin results in a material that surpasses the ductility of steel, ensuring each watch is truly unique, which makes the $27,800 price tag somewhat easier to swallow.

To further flaunt their fast-car geekery, Girard-Perregaux included a sunray dial in mesmerizing ‘Aston Martin Racing Green’, a nod to the iconic Aston Martin ‘AM’ badge of 1921. Lime accents on the chronograph hands mirror the design of the Aston Martin F1 car, and the central chronograph hand’s counterweight mimics the side strakes seen on Aston Martin road cars.

Inside, the emblematic case beats the self-winding Calibre GP03300-1058, which has exceptional accuracy, a comfortable power reserve, and smooth pusher activation. This is a car man’s watch, through and through.

Zenith DEFY Extreme E “Island X Prix” Edition

Inspired by the thrilling ‘Extreme E’ electric rally race in Sardinia, this Zenith has the visual presence of a Transformer more than a watch which, to most Zenith fans, will be an appealing quality. Built from a sturdy carbon fiber case adorned with titanium elements and powered by the El Primero 21 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, it’s a marvel of engineering, both inside and out.

The 1/100th of a second chronograph is masterful – the central chronograph hand completes a full revolution every second, while a chronograph power-reserve indication at noon ensures precise timekeeping. The hours and minutes are elegantly presented at the center, with small seconds displayed at 9 o’clock. 

There’s something quite jarring about the color scheme of the face, with the minor elements being highlighted in orange, generating an almost sinister character against the visible movement beneath it. Does this machine have feelings? 

Finally, the orange Velcro strap, made from recycled tires, speaks to the sustainable theme of the watch, a statement piece that reflects the spirit of adventure and nature. This watch comes with a retail price of $30,100.

Roger Dubois Excalibur Spider Huracán Black DLC Titanium 45mm

The Excalibur Spider Huracán is a testament to the thrilling partnership between Italian supercar legend Lamborghini and the Geneva-based horologist Roger Dubuis. Its black DLC titanium case, accentuated by rubber inlays, exudes a stealthy allure, as does the black DLC titanium bezel with lacquered markings, which exhibits a notched, almost militant strength that carries through the rest of the timepiece.

The dial showcases meticulous attention to detail – the lower flange exhibits transferred texts and minute tracks, while the upper flange features screw-like hour markers coated in PVD and filled with lume for enhanced legibility in any light condition.

Fastened to your wrist with a black rubber strap which is embellished with black Alcantara® inlay and black stitching, the Excalibur Spider Huracán is an altogether comfortable piece, even though it’s slightly on the larger side.

If the Zenith is a Transformer, then this beast of a watch is a Decepticon, unwaveringly sharp, flatteringly mean, and full of attitude – all of this for a meager $52,500. I suppose if you’ve got a Lamborghini already, you may as well complete the look.

Richard Mille RM 029 Le Mans Classic

Revving its engines in honor of the legendary Le Mans race, the RM 029 Automatic Le Mans Classic is a masterpiece limited to 150 fortunate collectors. The green and white color scheme will be instantly recognizable to aficionados of historic racing, as will the stripes that line the upper and lower lips of the case.

Driven by the cutting-edge Calibre RMAS7, this skeletonized automatic watch boasts an impressive array of features, including hours, minutes, and seconds, a 24-hour display, an oversized date, and a variable-geometry rotor.

This rotor comprises a titanium arm and high-palladium 18K white gold weight segments and adjusts the winding process based on the wearer’s activity level. 

This is, like many RM watches, a technical and visual feast. Small details such as the checkered finish flag on the dial and the sporty color scheme all serve to place the RM 029 squarely in the starting lineup of seminal racing watches.

Good luck getting your hands on one, though – they’re probably all safely locked away already! However, if you do manage to get your hands on one, you can expect to pay about double its retail price of $176,000.

Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

Jacob & Co.’s Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon speaks for the ingenious fusion of Jacob & Co.’s glitzy horological mastery and Bugatti’s exhilarating spirit, embodying the raw power of the iconic Bugatti 16-cylinder engine.

On this symphony of innovation, the Chiron-inspired case gracefully merges with the ‘engine block’ movement, showcased beneath a commanding and uniquely-shaped sapphire crystal. 

With a simple push of the right-hand crown, the engine springs to life, flaunting a mesmerizing rotation of the crankshaft and the rhythmic ascent and descent of 16 meticulously crafted pistons, which echo the heartbeat of a true combustion engine.

Comprised of an astounding 578 components, the movement is both complex and artful – the manual winding JCAM37 calibre powers the time display and presents a 1-minute Tourbillon cage inclined at 30° within its 41.7 x 36 mm frame.

Limited to just 126 pieces, this marvel elevates any collection to new heights, and along with the RM above, it’s the most expensive and exclusive entry on the list, at $300,000, and for a good reason. If you’ve got one or have a way to get one, I salute you!

The Finish Line

It’s clear that these timepieces are more than mere accessories – they embody the spirit of speed, precision, and adventure. From affordable contenders offering remarkable value to luxury champions redefining practical opulence, these watches highlight the racing world’s remarkable craftsmanship and engineering prowess. 

Whether you’re a fast-car aficionado seeking to capture the essence of the track or a horological connoisseur yearning for a twist of elegance, these watches will take you where you want to be.