Category: Watch Reviews

Chronographs are among the most iconic watches in history and are perennially popular among enthusiasts, from newcomers to seasoned collectors. They are multifunctional timepieces that blend form and function, combining varying case shapes, sizes, buttons (“pushers”), and colors with intricate movements that provide accurate current time as well as the precise timing of events ranging from Formula 1 racing to boiling the fettuccine.

“Chronograph” is derived from the Greek language and means “time recording”. Chronographs indicate both the current time and the elapsed time of an event from start to finish, but they are much more than a mere “stopwatch”. 

As we shall see, certain types of chronographs also record split times (e.g., a single lap of a multi-lap race) and calculate the speed of a moving object, the wearer’s distance from an event that is seen and heard (e.g., a lightning strike and thunder), pulse rate, and even a pilot’s fuel consumption.

In this article, I will cover chronograph history, how they work, practical uses, types, and the differences between chronographs and chronometers, and discuss five popular models.

The Birth of the Chronograph

There are several key figures and events that figure prominently in the birth and growth of chronographs.

Most watch historians—as well as the Guiness Book of World Records—credit French watchmaker Louis Moinet with the “World’s First Chronograph” in 1816. Its design was similar to a modern handheld stopwatch with start-stop-reset functions and was used for astronomical purposes. Moinet achieved an amazing accuracy of 1/60^th per second and 30Hz or 216,000 beats per hour.

In 1821, Nicolas Mattheiu Rieussec was the first to use the term “chronograph” to describe his “Chronograph with Seconds Indicator”, which he designed for the more practical and commercial use of timing horse races. 

The device was housed inside a wooden box and allowed for separate times to be recorded when the user triggered a hand to leave an ink impression on paper, thus becoming the first literal “timer writer”.

Longines launched the first chronograph wristwatch in 1913. It featured a monopusher embedded within the crown and was accurate to 1/5^th of a second. Breitling followed in 1915 with the first chronograph with a separate pusher for start-stop-reset situated at 2 o’clock and again in 1934 with the first dual pusher chronograph.

The year 1969 marked not only the “Race to the Moon” but also the “Great Automatic Chronograph Race”, which featured competitors Seiko, Zenith, and a team of collaborating Swiss firms consisting of Breitling, Buren-Hamilton, and Dubois-Dépraz vying for the distinction of the first self-winding chronograph movement. Zenith announced their success in January and named the movement “El Primero” or “The First”.  The Heuer, et. al consortium and Seiko announced later but still beat Zenith to market to the general public.

Chronographs have continued to evolve with new designs, more accurate movements, and increased functionality and remain a popular and practical watch choice to this day.

How Chronograph Watches Actually Work

Chronographs encompass a broad range of designs, types, and functions, but there are a few elements that are common to almost all models.

Mechanical chronographs use either a cam or column wheel design to achieve their multifunctional capabilities. Either type of movement allows for the pushers (these days, usually dual ones placed at 2 and 4 o’clock) to perform start-stop-reset functions. 

A typical analog chronograph will have a centrally placed timing seconds hand that starts when pressing the top (2 o’clock) pusher. The timing hand stops when the user presses the top pusher again. To reset, the user presses the bottom (4 o’clock) pusher.

Chronograph dials contain registers, also known as “subdials”, that display information such as running seconds, elapsed hours, minutes, or fractions of seconds. There may be additional indices and markings that allow measurement of distance (“telemetry”) or physiological data such as pulse rate (“pulsometry”). 

Bezels are also an important component of chronographs, and the most common display is a tachymeter that measures the speed over a known distance, either in miles per hour (mph) or kilometers (kph). Other bezel options include pulsometry and even ones with slide rule functions.

It is important to note that while many popular and historically important chronographs are largely mechanical and analog, highly accurate quartz movements with digital-only displays or analog-digital hybrids, as well as the ubiquitous “smart watches”, are popular and affordable options as well.

Practical Chronograph Uses

Chronographs are used in a wide range of timing tasks associated with various sporting events, such as track and auto racing, as well as military, aviation, diving, and medical applications. Even more mundane timing needs, such as how long to cook an item in the kitchen or calculating the morning commute length, make chronographs useful for almost everyone.

Unique Types of Chronographs

There are “sub-specialty” types of chronographs that can “fine tune” timing capabilities. Two important ones are split seconds and flyback chronographs.

Split Seconds Chronograph

Split seconds chronographs time a series of successive events such as laps in a track or auto race. Another name is rattrapante which is French for “catch up”. A split seconds chronograph is equipped with two timing seconds hands that overlap at the 12 o’clock position before timing starts. 

When the user engages the top pusher to start timing an event, both timing seconds hands start to run together. Pressing the bottom pusher stops the rattrapante hand, which is usually on the bottom, to record the split time while the other timing seconds hand continues to run and show total elapsed time. 

When the bottom pusher is pressed again, the split timing seconds hand “catches up” to the other one and continues with it unless the bottom pusher is pressed again to record another split

Some split seconds timing chronographs only contain a single timing seconds hand. For instance, a MoonSwatch has a bottom pusher that can be engaged after the start to record a split time. 

The elapsed time continues to run unseen. When the bottom pusher is pressed again, the timing seconds hand jumps forward to show the total elapsed time again—a “rattrapante lite”, if you will.

Flyback Chronograph

A flyback chronograph allows the user to stop the timing seconds hand, reset to zero with a counterclockwise movement, and immediately start timing again with a single press of a pusher. This is in contrast to a standard chronograph, which requires separate pushes to stop the timing seconds hand, reset it to zero, and restart it.  

Flyback chronographs were designed initially for pilots who needed accurate and rapidly timed multiple intervals for complex maneuvers and other various flight tasks. The movement of the hands appears simple, but the mechanisms are very complex testaments to the art and craft of watchmaking. Flyback chronographs are popular among collectors who are fascinated by and appreciate their close ties with aviation and military history.

Chronograph Watches vs. Chronometer Watches

Even though chronographs and chronometers are often confused, the distinctions between the two are relatively straightforward. Chronographs are multifunctional tool watches that combine traditional timekeeping with a stopwatch function. A chronometer, on the other hand, is primarily concerned with precise timekeeping and designed to be accurate within a small seconds per day interval.

Chronometers gain certification by undergoing rigorous testing in various positions and temperatures by certifying bodies such as the Official Swiss Chronometer Institute (COSC), whose standard is +6/-4 seconds/day. The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), following COSC certification, awards its “Master Chronometer” designation for watches that achieve a +5/-0 seconds per day standard. Some brands have their own in-house testing and certification, such as Rolex’s +2/-2 seconds per day “Superlative Chronometer” distinction.

There can be an overlap between the two: a chronograph, if it meets the appropriate accuracy standards, can also be designated a chronometer.

Top 5 Chronograph Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

Here are 5 popular chronographs available on the Exquisite Timepieces website:

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph is famous for its NASA certification and recognition as “The First Watch Worn on the Moon” by the Apollo astronauts. This more refined modern reference features a 42mm stainless steel asymmetrical case, matching stainless steel bracelet, and a “double sapphire sandwich” crystal design that crisply displays both the highly legible black dial and subdials on the front and the intricate and beautiful manual wind Caliber 3861 movement through the caseback. 

It has a bezel tachymeter and a 50-hour power reserve, and it is a perfect example of a chronograph that is also a certified (METAS) chronometer. You may not be able to own a moon rock, but it is possible to get hands-on with an iconic chronograph and important piece of space history.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback (ref. 5200-0130-B52A)

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, originally introduced in 1953, is cited by many as the first modern diver’s watch. This chronograph reference has a 43.6mm diameter black ceramic case, a rotating ceramic bezel, a black dial with 60 seconds, 30 minutes, and 12-hour subdials, and a date window at 4:30. 

It has a sapphire display caseback, showing off the Caliber F385 movement with a 50-hour power reserve and flyback chronograph capability. Despite the presence of pushers, it still maintains an impressive 300 meters of water resistance in keeping with the brand’s storied diver tradition. It is an excellent choice for those who want a watch with a lot of stylish and imposing, yet paradoxically minimalistic, wrist presence combined with impressive timekeeping and tracking credentials.

Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic 42mm (ref. 441.OM.1180.RX)

This chronograph features a 42mm diameter  (“compact” by brand standards and “unisex according to some) 18K gold, satin-finished, “King Gold” case with polished edges and pushers, combined with a satin-finished ceramic bezel with polished edges, all held together with titanium screws. 

The skeletonized dial reveals the 72-hour power reserve, in-house Caliber UNICO Hub1280 autonomic column-wheel flyback chronograph movement, and the rotating date wheel. There are two subdials at 3 and 9 (60 minutes and 60 seconds) with a date window embedded within the subdial at 3. The strap is black structured lined rubber with an 18K gold deployant clasp. A guaranteed conversation starter, this “Big Bang” of a chronograph lives up to its name.

Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Tao

While the name may fly a little under the radar, Czapek is nevertheless a tradition-rich brand dating back to the arrival of Polish watchmaker François Czapek in Geneva, Switzerland, in 1832. The company’s Faubourg de Cracovie Collection Tao model is a limited-edition (18-piece) chronograph that showcases a black and white (“panda”) Grand-Feu enamel dial and is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber SXH3 movement. 

The case is stainless steel with a 41.5mm diameter and houses elongated pushers that do not protrude but instead hug and conform very closely to the case, creating a unique and pleasing chronograph silhouette. It is high-end, dressy, and rare. If you own it, you’re probably the only one in the room wearing it.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Blue dial (ref. 6907-1200)

H. Moser & Cie was founded by Swiss watchmaker Heinrich Moser in St. Petersburg, Russia, in 1828. The “Streamliner” is sleek and modern with minimalistic and fluid lines. Its 42.3mm stainless steel case has pushers at 10 and 2 and integrates seamlessly with its stainless steel bracelet. 

The dial has a transparent logo, no subdials, and is a distinctive “Funky Blue Fumé” with 4 centrally placed hands and a tachymeter scale on the inner flange. The flyback chronograph movement is the 72-hour power reserve Caliber HMC 907, and its stunning details are seen clearly through the sapphire caseback. Like the Czapek chronograph, there’s little chance of it being duplicated in your social circles.

Conclusion

Chronographs are popular cornerstone pieces of the watch world that represent some of the most pragmatic yet finest examples of high-quality watchmaking ever achieved. There are chronographs at all price points that suit everyone’s unique timekeeping needs–and everyone needs at least one. 

It’s hard to think back to a time when watches were seen predominantly as a female accessory. Especially since the luxury watch industry has become such a male-driven space. Maybe that’s got something to do with watches being one of the very few items of jewelry a man can wear. But that’s perhaps a topic for another day. 

My point is that men held onto the classic pocket watch long after Breguet introduced its first wrist-worn watch back in 1810 for the Queen of Naples. No one had ever seen a design like that before. Its oblong case framed an engine-turned silver dial, boasting complications like a moon phase, thermometer, and repeater. You can certainly see why innovations like this wouldn’t necessarily appeal to a male demographic at the time.  

Men’s watches didn’t really become a thing until the need for a reliable and legible wrist-worn watch during the First World War became apparent. Soldiers on the frontline needed a watch on a strap. Pocket watches proved very impractical for responding to the demands of warfare. In such circumstances, grabbing for a grenade with your spare hand rather than fumbling around for your pocket watch made all the difference.  

Before this, though, Cartier had released the very masculine Santos de Cartier pilot’s watch, so wristwatches weren’t completely alien. However, as is often the case, it takes time for society to conform to a change. 

The narrative that watches might not just be solely for women began to shift perceptions, and gradually, more and more designs began emerging. They weren’t just fashion accessories anymore. They were instruments that served a function. They were practical – able to hold up on the wrist under pressure. They were legible and reliable.  

Even after time spent on the battlefield, soldiers returned home wanting to wear a watch. Since that time, the market for watches has expanded exponentially. Luxury timepieces have become more refined and elegant. 

But at the same time, technologies have advanced so much that they now offer exceptional robustness, longevity, and accuracy. Today, there is a huge choice of watches to pick from. The question remains as to where to start looking if you’re new to the scene and you want to invest in one.   

If you don’t quite know what you’re looking for in a luxury watch, then the beginning is a pretty difficult place to start. Browsing watches online can be a daunting task, and trust me when I say you’re bound to fall down the odd rabbit hole or two. Before you tackle the mammoth task of searching for the perfect watch with us, there are some basics you need to know.  

In this easy-to-follow guide, I’m going to talk you through the different ways in which a watch works. We’ll look at two types of mechanical watches, automatic and manual winding, and we’ll see how these differ from the quartz watch.  

Then, we’ll look at the key watch styles and what each one offers you as a first-time buyer and wearer. We’ve got all the bases covered, so go grab a drink, kick back, and let’s begin this beginner’s guide on how to begin being a beginner (are you with me?).  

Types of Watches Based on Movements 

Part of the enjoyment of owning and wearing luxury watches is in understanding how they work. For many horology enthusiasts, admiring the complexity at play behind a transparent caseback and catching a glimpse of how each intricate component within that movement works harmoniously with another is a huge part of the experience. 

Some of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world have earned their respect by upholding time-honored watchmaking techniques that are now centuries old. Horology is a craft and an art all rolled into one. What often makes one manufacturer stand out against another is how it builds its timepieces from the inside out. The organ of the watch is the movement, and there are three key types. Let’s look at each one in a little more detail. 

Manual-Winding Watches

Manual winding movements belong under the mechanical umbrella and are the oldest of the lot. Put in simple terms, it is the winding of the crown in a mechanical watch (or the turning of a rotor in an automatic) that causes a spring to tighten inside the watch. With the help of an escapement to regulate the release of energy, that mainspring slowly starts to unwind, providing energy to the watch.  

Whereas an automatic watch takes care of the winding part, a manual-winding watch doesn’t. You’ll need to wind the crown regularly to keep your timepiece ticking over nicely. Many experienced collectors love the manual winding watch because of its tangible beauty and its visual complexity, which is often afforded through an exhibition window on the caseback.

Winding the crown tightens the mainspring, and once it is fully wound, it begins to unwind via the barrel, feeding energy to the escapement via a series of wheels and gears called the going train.  

Thanks to the use of an escapement wheel and balance fork, the mainspring is prevented from unwinding itself rapidly and losing all the energy at once. The escape wheel itself catches on a pallet that notches back and forth, connecting with an impulse pin to slowly release energy.

When you look through the back of a watch, one of the first things you will see is the balance wheel, prominently displayed through a sapphire crystal glass window as a symbol of craftsmanship. It spins continually, almost effortlessly, as the watch runs.  

Automatic Watches

With an automatic watch, a freely rotating weight rocks back and forth with the movement of your wrist. As it does so, it automatically coils the mainspring for you. The rest of the movement works in the same way as a manual-winding movement. The first thing your eyes will be drawn to when flipping an automatic watch over with an exhibition caseback is the rotor. Oftentimes, this rotor is engraved or decorated, especially by the manufacturer who makes the watch.  

Swiss watchmaker Oris, for example, implements a distinctive red rotor into all of its watches, while others may be skeletonized, crafted from 18k gold, or simply engraved with a company name.  

Quartz Watches

When the battery replaced the spring in the 1970s, it spelled disaster for so many traditional watchmakers. Some were never fortunate enough to make a comeback after the Quartz Crisis. Others survived only by changing tack and equipping some of their most popular timepieces with a quartz movement to feed consumer demand.  

Quartz has always been the cheaper and faster movement to produce. The first example was the Aston, produced by Seiko in 1969. The quartz watch works by converting electrical energy to physical energy. 

In a quartz-operated watch, an electrical current is sent to a microchip via a battery, causing a crystal to vibrate at high frequency. A microchip then picks up the vibrations created by the crystal, turning them into electric pulses that send the hands around the dial.  

Generally speaking, automatic and manual-winding watches are more expensive than quartz movements. Mechanical movements require regular services to ensure they perform seamlessly, but they last much longer than quartz watches. 

The advantage of buying a luxury timepiece from a respected manufacturer in the industry is that replacement parts and services will always be available (either directly by the official brand or via an authorized dealer). Quartz watches, on the other hand, are more affordable and make for great beginner watches, although many collectors feel they lack the complexity and craftsmanship that a mechanical watch offers.  

Spring Drive Watches

The Spring Drive Movement is a concept developed by Japanese watchmaker Seiko. It combines the advantages of both quartz and mechanical movements. Instead of the typical escapement you’d see in a mechanical watch, the Spring Drive Movement incorporates a tri-synchro regulator. 

This is a speed control mechanism that works by controlling the mainspring’s energy release, then converting the mechanical power to electrical energy, delivering it to a piece of quartz. The quartz then oscillates while the tri-synchro regulator generates a magnetic force that applies a break control, making sure optimal timekeeping is maintained. The Spring Drive movement is used in many Grand Seiko watches, including the “Omiwitari” and the “White Birch”.  

Types of Watches Based on Style 

Now that you know the difference between a mechanical and quartz watch, Let’s take a look at the different styles of watches available.  

Dive Watches 

The history of the dive watch goes back further than you think! While dive watches were enjoying their heyday back in the 1950s, the fundamental values of this style of watch were established much earlier. 

Before the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Zodiac Seawolf, and before models like the Submariner by Rolex and the DOXA SUB – there were waterproof cases like the Rolex Oyster in 1926 and the 1936 Omega Seamaster. Panerai had also developed its military-inspired Luminor watch for the Italian Navy (although it wouldn’t be released to the public until the 1990s). 

The core principles of these watches are still underpinned in most modern dive watches. Modern-day dive watches have lockable bezels, unidirectional dive scales, legible dials, screw-down crowns, depth gauges, and helium escape valves. There is an abundance of styles and designs to choose from today, and pretty much every esteemed manufacturer in the industry has dipped its toe into making a dive watch. 

Some of the most popular are those like the TAG Heuer Aquaracer, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, the DOXA SUB 200, the Panerai Submersible, and the Breitling Superocean, not forgetting, of course, the iconic and highly covetable Rolex Submariner.  

Dress Watches 

Dress watches have been around for centuries and are the most elegant of all. Even though they aren’t the kind of watch you would wear for daily affairs, outdoor pursuits, or sports, some are still robust enough for these environments. Manufacturers that excel in the realms of dress watches include Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, and Breguet.  

Dress watches are more formal and elegant in style than your average daily beater. They often come in cases crafted from 18ct rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, or palladium and communicate opulence through simplified dials, slim case dimensions, and classic bracelets or leather straps. 

Some manufacturers create dress watches with diamond dot hour makers or diamond decoration on the dial, while others are resolutely understated for pairing with formal or business attire.  

Field Watches 

Field watches pay homage to military timepieces used in military warfare dating back to the First World War. They are the most utilitarian of designs, featuring legible dials, robust cases, and, sometimes, material straps that give them a distinctive vintage vibe. If you like watches with a bit of old-world charm, a field watch may be a great first watch for you. 

Hamilton is a master in creating field watches. Its popular Khaki line of Field, Navy, and Aviation timepieces promises lashings of Super-LumiNova material on the dial and additional 24-hour tracks. Field watches are durable, accurate, and functional. These minimalist military watches are favored by collectors for their comfort and wearability.  

Chronograph Watches 

Chronograph watches are one of the most popular complications to own, thanks to their useful stopwatch facility for measuring elapsed time. Whether you opt for a complex timepiece that combines this function with a perpetual calendar or a split-second chronograph to measure laps around a racing track, this type of watch will add something dynamic and sportier to your collection. 

You can use the timing feature on a chronograph to boil an egg on a Sunday morning or for more crucial timings in sports training. In the early 1900s, Breitling was one of the first manufacturers to add an independent 2 o’clock pusher to a wrist-worn chronograph. 

TAG Heuer is another leader in the chronograph field. The brand’s stylish chronograph watches have become the face of the brand’s many sporting partnerships over the years. Chronograph watches also come with features like tachymeter scales and pulsometers, while flybacks can start, stop, and reset a timing with a simple button push. 

Pilot Watches  

If you thought pilot’s watches were only for aviators, you were very wrong. They do have some very useful applications in the cockpit, don’t get me wrong, but seldom are they used for flying anymore. 

A pilot’s watch is a niche style that is sought-after by devoted collectors who simply love their style. Most have a distinctive retro charm and carry elements like legible Arabic numerals, luminous hands, and a triangular pointer at 12 o’clock to help orient pilots flying fighter jets during battle. 

After Cartier developed the Santos watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, flieger watches designed by manufacturers like IWC, Laco, and A. Lange & Söhne arrived. Today, pilot’s watches are a popular choice and are loved for their functionality and legibility. 

The Breitling Navitimer watch, for example, features the slide rule bezel that pilots once used for complex air-bounce calculations like speed and fuel consumption. Examples of manufacturers creating modern-day pilot tools include Bremont, Zenith, Longines, Breguet, Fortis, Oris, and Sinn.  

GMT Watches  

GMT watches are one of the most practical tools you can own. If you’re looking to start your luxury watch collection with a travel watch, I’d recommend a GMT watch. It displays an additional time zone in a 24-hour format that you can follow while traveling away on business or for leisure. 

The GMT hand forms an integral part of this design and is often triangular and highlighted in a contrasting color for improved legibility. The hand coincides with the 24-hour scale to provide time back at home, while the main central hour and minute hands track the current time of your destination. 

One of the most iconic GMT watches is the Rolex GMT-Master II, including the coveted Pepsi and Batman models with respective red/blue and blue/black bezels. Other popular examples include the Aquascaphe GMT by Baltic, the BR V2-93 GMT watch by Bell & Ross, and the Longines Spirit Zulu.  

Tourbillon Watches  

A tourbillon watch is one of the priciest options from the list but it’s also one of the most complex and beautiful. The first of its kind was developed by Abraham Louis-Breguet (yes, that’s the same manufacturer that developed the first wristwatch!). The complication is quite something to marvel at and is often displayed through the dial of a watch via an open-heart layout.

The invention defies the effect of gravitational pull on the intricate parts of the movement by suspending them inside a cage. The balance and escapement rotate inside that cage, making one full revolution every minute. The balletic motion of the tourbillon is a captivating feature in a watch and can be found in designs from Moser & Cie, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet & Vacheron Constantin.  

Conclusion  

The selection of watch styles, movements, and dials available on the market today is as diverse as the individuals who wear them. Finding the perfect timepiece, especially if you are just starting out, is not a simple task. Collecting watches is a personal experience. 

The type of watch you choose should reflect your personality and tastes above all else, but it should also be functional and suited to your daily needs. Most of all, enjoy wearing your watch for its craftsmanship, build, and quality. 

Dive watches may not be to everyone’s taste, just like a dress watch may be too formal or a pilot watch too bold for another collector. The good thing is that Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer of so many coveted brands that you can’t really go wrong when looking to start your watch-collecting journey with us.

If you are anything like me, you find watches fascinating. They are truly marvels of mechanical engineering. Despite a number of innovations, they have used the same basic way of functioning since their birth in the 16th Century.

A wristwatch does more than just tell the time. I love the various complications available on modern timepieces. From something as simple as the date to the complexities of moon phases and world calendars, these additional functions only add to that wonderful feeling of wearing your favorite watch.

Perhaps the most complex and mesmerizing of complications is the tourbillon. A tourbillon is an amazing mechanism that rotates the balance wheel and escapement while they function. A tourbillon is a visible part of the workings of a watch, generally in an open-heart dial. Tourbillon is the French word for “whirlwind”. If you’ve ever seen one, you know that is a fitting moniker.

The story of the tourbillon, how it works, and why it was created is as engaging as the complication itself. 

How Tourbillons Operate

The purpose of the tourbillon is to counter the effects of gravity on the balance wheel and escapement. These effects can impact the accuracy of a mechanical watch. To understand how a tourbillon functions, we need to look at how a mechanical watch keeps time. 

The power source of a mechanical watch is the mainspring. When you wind it, potential energy is stored. As the mainspring unwinds, kinetic energy turns the gear system that moves the hands. 

The escapement is what keeps the mainspring from unwinding all at once. It consists of the balance wheel, hairspring, and pallet fork. The hairspring causes the balance wheel to oscillate back and forth, and the pallet fork stops the action on each oscillation to turn it back the other way. 

The escapement keeps the balance wheel oscillating at a specific frequency. It turns the gears that drive the second hand to one revolution around the dial per minute, the minute hand one rev per hour, and the hour hand one rev per 12 hours. 

In a well-made timepiece, the escapement functions with a high level of precision. But, remember our old friend gravity from science class? The force that pulls everything down creates drag on the escapement. This can alter the oscillation frequency and reduce the level of precision. 

That, boys and girls, brings us to the tourbillon. This brilliant mechanism is essentially a cage around the escapement that rotates it, generally at a rate of 1 RPM. With the escapement constantly changing position, the effects of gravity are nullified, and precise timekeeping is preserved.

History of Tourbillons in Watches

The tourbillon was the brainchild of a brilliant watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Never one to back down from a challenge (he also invented the rotor that winds automatic watches and several other innovations), Breguet invented the ingenious tourbillon to solve the gravity problem. The company that bears his name makes some of the finest tourbillon watches on the planet.

As time went on and the science and art of watchmaking developed, more sophisticated tourbillons that rotated on multiple axes were created. When wristwatches became popular, horologists built tourbillons for them. Today, a tourbillon is a symbol of prestige and good taste.

Different Types of Tourbillons

When people started wearing wristwatches and pocket watches that went out of vogue, the problem of gravity became more challenging. Unlike pocket watches that remain in a vertical position most of the time, a wristwatch sits in many different positions as the wearer moves their arm throughout the day. 

To combat the issue, horologists developed several different types of tourbillons. In addition to fighting gravity more effectively, they are incredibly fun to watch. I have a friend with a beautiful two-axis tourbillon. A group of us were having dinner one night, and several of our party could not stop looking at his watch. They are that cool.

Single Axis Tourbillon

The original tourbillon and the most common type is the single axis. It rotates around one axis, perpendicular to the dial. Many watch enthusiasts love their simplicity and elegance. They blend nicely into the dial while they do their job.

Multi Axis Tourbillon

Because wristwatches are constantly changing position, tourbillons needed to evolve to counter gravity in more than one axis. Multi-axis tourbillons, as the name implies, turn around two or even three axes. 

This improves accuracy when the watch is in multiple positions and multi-axis tourbillons are spectacular pieces of engineering that are incredible to see in action. 

Double & Quadruple Tourbillon

Just when you thought tourbillons couldn’t get any more sophisticated, along come double and quadruple variants. The level of engineering and craftsmanship in these watches is incredible. They feature either two or four cages that rotate at different speeds. 

Both precision and the wow factor are boosted exponentially. Sporting a double or quadruple tourbillon will make you the envy of your horological friends.

Flying Tourbillon

The flying tourbillon is a brilliant innovation that steps things up yet another level. A standard tourbillon is anchored by a top and bottom bridge. The flying variation lacks a top bridge. Rather than the cage rotating on its central axis, the entire mechanism moves in a small circle. 

This gives the visual effect of the tourbillon floating around the dial. A flying tourbillon effectively improves precision and is one of the most stunning horological displays you will ever see. 

Gyro Tourbillon

If you are familiar with the use of a gyroscope in aviation and nautical travel, you will understand the value of the gyro tourbillon. An extension of the multi-axis type, the gyro tourbillon turns on an axis perpendicular to the dial and another parallel to it. 

Similar to how a gyroscope functions, this type of tourbillon minimizes the effects of gravity. It is also one of the most fascinating displays you will ever see on a high-end timepiece. You may not even notice the hands.

Top 5 Tourbillon Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you are in the market for a tourbillon watch, check out Exquisite Timepieces. We have a wide selection of these stunning watches. Here are the top 5 most popular.

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Chronometer Numbered Edition 43mm (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

It’s not surprising that Omega has a watch on this list. The world-class horologists at the brand’s Atelier Tourbillon designed this stunning manual-winding central tourbillon that is master chronometer certified. The 43 mm case is a blend of 18K Sedna gold and 18K Canopus gold with an 18K Sedna gold bezel. 

The black sun-brushed dial is nicely contrasted by gold hands and indices, and a black leather strap with an 18K Sedna gold buckle fits in with the colorway. The tourbillon is the feature that draws your eye with its titanium bridge and 18K Sedna gold polished second hand attached. 

A sapphire crystal and exhibition case back are scratch-resistant and provide a view of the gorgeous Master Co-Axial Chronometer Calibre 2640 movement. The movement features a power reserve indicator that displays what you have left on the generous three-day reserve.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Retrograde (ref. 66260-3433-55B)

Blancpain is a world-renowned brand that makes some of the finest timepieces you will ever see. The Villeret Tourbillon Volant features a beautiful flying tourbillon that truly appears to fly about on its rounds. 

The case is available in either 43m platinum or 43mm 18K red gold. The dial is white grand feu enamel with silver hands. This is the first Blancpain watch to feature a retrograde minute hand and an hour window. The design is unique, elegant, and uncluttered. 

The sapphire crystal and exhibition case back offers a full view of the dial and movement while protecting them. You can choose between a black or brown alligator strap lined with alzavel or an 18K gold Milanese mesh bracelet. 

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton (ref. 6814-1200)

H. Moser & Cie. have a long and storied history of creating fine timepieces and have hit new heights with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. The 40mm stainless steel silver cushion-shaped case houses the Caliber HMC 814 movement. The skeleton dial and exhibition case back allows you to view the movement and stylish tourbillon from either side. 

The hands and indices are 5N gold-plated, and the hands have Globolight inserts. The stainless steel integrated bracelet adds to the unique design. The automatic movement has a 72-hour power reserve, and the water resistance is 120 meters; much more than the average tourbillon watch.

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge (ref. 5345PT/1S/7XU)

No list of tourbillon watches would be complete without a model from Breguet, whose founder invented the complication. The Classique features a 46mm case in either platinum or 18K red gold. The skeleton dial shows off the movement including not one, but two tourbillons. 

A sapphire chapter ring with blue Roman numerals and blue hands adds to the unique and stylish design of the dial. An exhibition case back gives a view of the manual Caliber 588N movement, and the watch is protected front and back by a sapphire crystal. 

You can choose a black leather or blue rubber strap with a triple folding clasp to secure your timepiece to your wrist. The 50-hour power reserve lets you go a couple of days between windings. 

Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Diamonds White Gold on Strap (ref. BT543.30.BD.BD.B)

If you like a flashy watch with plenty of bling, this offering from Jacob  & Co. is right up your alley. The large 47mm 18K white gold case is invisibly set with 205 Baguette-cut white diamonds. The dial is white gold as well and set with 146 diamonds, and even the crown features 14 stunning gems. Leaf-shaped blue hands contrast the dial nicely. This watch will definitely be noticed.

The manual movement has a whopping 100-hour power reserve, and the white alligator leather strap secures with an 18K white gold deployant clasp. The main attraction, however, is the incredible flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A bit too ostentatious for my taste, if you have the cash to buy one, this Jacob & Co. model could be the ultimate addition to your collection

Conclusion

Complications add functions to watches and make them more than just timekeepers. Perhaps no other complication stands out as much as a tourbillon. Designed to improve accuracy, these incredible mechanisms come in several types and add a new level of sophistication, artistry, and coolness to any watch.

If you ask a Christian about the Holy Trinity, they are likely to explain it by making the sign of the cross and mentioning the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. For faithful watch enthusiasts, the holy trinity of watches is the absolute pinnacle of their hobby, referencing the three pillars of the Swiss Watch Industry. Every watch nerd aspires to one day own an example of the holy trinity of watches: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

Their names are synonymous with luxury, with horology, and awe-inspiring innovation.

Why are they Called the Holy Trinity?

Enthusiasts often create creative names and titles to denote aspirational purchases and brands. A grail watch is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase, something you are dreaming of purchasing one day—maybe after a promotion or a major life milestone. 

For example, my “grail” watch is the Breguet Tradition 7097BB; will I ever get one? Maybe. And it keeps me motivated in life, serving as a reminder of my hard work and dedication to my career. The holy trinity of wristwatches serves a similar purpose: as role model and inspiration for many smaller, and often independently owned, watch brands seeking to climb Mount Luxury. 

Thus, the “Holy Trinity” term is used to emphasize the unparalleled status and the revered position these three brands hold in the world of horology, making them universally recognized both within and outside the watch industry.

Patek Philippe: A King Among Kings

I remember when I held my first Patek Philippe. I wasn’t even into watches at the time. I had an Invicta my Godfather gifted me, tucked somewhere in a sock drawer, its battery long dead. I was a teenager then, and I was asked to hold a friend’s watch while he played a game of basketball. It was gold and pristine, heavier than what I expected. 

Little did I know that I wouldn’t hold a Patek Philippe in the flesh again for some fifteen years. Holding a Patek Philippe in hand is something special. Pictures just don’t do them justice.

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has established itself as a leader in high horology, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now widely adopted across the watch industry. 

Its numerous horological achievements include the creation of the first annual calendar watch and the introduction of wristwatches featuring perpetual calendars and split-second chronographs. 

Patek Philippe enjoys popularity across its collections, but its Aquanaut and Nautilus sports models are some of its most recognizable pieces. It is also worth mentioning the historical relevance of its Calatrava line, first introduced in 1932. The Calatrava continues to serve as a reminder of the beauty in simplicity and the remarkable craftsmanship of Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe is the king, plain and simple. Their watches have adorned the wrists of many famous individuals, including Queen Victoria, Albert Einstein, and Pablo Picasso. Celebrities like Brad Pitt, Ellen DeGeneres, and John Mayer are also known for their appreciation of the brand’s exceptional timepieces. Athletes, including tennis star Rafael Nadal and basketball legend LeBron James, have been known to wear multiple references from the brand. 

Vacheron Constantin: The Grandpa We All Love

Vacheron Constantin is the grandpa we all love! It is one of the oldest watchmakers in existence today, and it is certainly the oldest, by a wide margin, on this list. I was lucky enough to try on a rose gold Overseas a few years ago. 

I was blown away by the depth of its blue dial, by the finishing of its movement, and by a bracelet that seemed to be constructed by an alien race rather than human hands. It just flowed over my wrist like a waterfall, embracing the contours and curves of my wrist without being unobtrusive or uncomfortable. The watch was perfect—emblematic of Vacheron Constantin as a brand.

Vacheron Constantin, one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious watchmakers, was founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin. The company boasts over 250 years of uninterrupted watchmaking, surviving and thriving through multiple world wars, the quartz crisis, the Industrial Revolution, and the digital age. 

Vacheron Constantin is renowned for several innovations in horology. They introduced the first engine-turned dials in 1779 and developed one of the first watches with a date complication in 1790. The company also created the world’s thinnest mechanical watch in 1955 and continues to push boundaries with complex grand complications, such as the Reference 57260, which features 57 complications and is considered one of the most complicated watches ever made.

Although it may not enjoy the same brand recognition as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin watches have been worn by notable figures such as Marlon Brando, Jay-Z, and Eric Clapton. Athletes like Michael Jordan and Tom Brady are also known to sport these prestigious timepieces, showcasing their broad appeal across various fields. Vacheron Constantin offers a rich collection of dressy, sporty, and complicated timepieces. 

Across their line, the Overseas—a sports model offered in steel, titanium, or precious metal—enjoys the most mass appeal and popularity. The Historique American 1921, originally created for the American market in the early 20th century, offers a unique cushion-shaped case and a dial that is tilted at a 45-degree angle for easier viewing while driving.

Audemars Piguet: The Rebellious Teenager

Audemars Piguet, or as the masses refer to it, “A-P,” is the third member of the venerated holy trinity of watches. The brand is not only important and relevant to horology but has also transcended culture, music, sports, and the world of luxury “it” items. LeBron James is a big fan and even has his own special edition. You’ll also see Tom Cruise, Jay-Z, and Lionel Messi rocking AP watches. 

Audemars Piguet has been crafting watches since 1875 when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Today, the company is headquartered in Le Brassus and remains one of the few watchmaking firms still privately owned, with the Audemars family at the helm. 

Known for its innovations, Audemars Piguet created the world’s first-minute repeater movement for wristwatches in 1892 and introduced the first jumping-hour watch in 1921. In 1986, they also launched the first self-winding tourbillon wristwatch.

I have to admit, if I were to close my eyes and envision a luxury sports watch, it would be the Royal Oak every time. Designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch. 

This iconic design inspired, at least in part, the Nautilus and Overseas models from the two other Holy Trinity brands we’ve explored here, as well as numerous others in the industry. The Code 11.59 is another, more recent collection that has gained popularity in the past few years. It showcases Audemars Piguet’s dedication to innovation and modern design—to pave the future design language of luxury wristwatches. 

Why no Rolex?

Rolex undeniably wears the crown, but its true expertise lies in marketing, brand exposure, and business acumen, with watchmaking coming in second. I don’t mean to say they make second-rate watches because they don’t. Their watches are bulletproof, timeless, and undeniably luxury icons. 

When we mention Rolex, we’re referring to a brand that produces over a million watches annually, with plans for even further expansion. In contrast, the esteemed Holy Trinity of watchmakers collectively manufacture just over 100,000 watches each year. 

Therefore, it’s obvious why Rolex isn’t formally included on this list. Rolex is king of the masses, but the crown still bows to the trinity.

Closing Thoughts

Having the means and allocation luck to acquire a timepiece from any of these three companies is truly a privilege. Patek Philippe stands as the quintessential choice for those drawn to heritage, formal wear, and a touch of understated elegance. 

Vacheron Constantin appeals to those who cherish tradition, impeccable finishing, and a refined aesthetic that effortlessly spans generations. 

Audemars Piguet, on the other hand, caters to individuals who admire bold style, contemporary designs, and a rebellious spirit in luxury watchmaking. No matter your choice or preference, these are three of the most distinguished, acclaimed, and finely crafted timepieces on earth. There are no losers here…

Spending thousands of dollars on a watch is something that has always been considered a luxury purchase by watch “civilians,” who, in actuality, make up the vast majority of consumers. 

However, If you’ve spent time reading watch reviews, watching videos, and exploring watch blogs, you shouldn’t count yourself as an ordinary consumer. Heck, the mere act of reading this article is an admission that you are a watch enthusiast or, at the very least, well on your way to becoming one. 

I’d like to formally welcome you to our ranks! Please enjoy obsessing over minute details such as lug-to-lug widths, power reserves, and screw-down crowns. I hope you like ramen because this hobby has become really expensive over the past two decades.

Only twenty years ago, one could buy a stainless steel Rolex Submariner without jumping through hula hoops for around $3,000. That price has more than tripled today, and with the seemingly unceasing waves of inflation, an important question bubbles to the surface: Can you purchase a quality luxury timepiece for under $3,000?

What to Look for in Luxury Watches Under $3,000

The answer to the above question is a resounding yes. There are a multitude of value propositions, some from larger, well-known brands and others from independents. When considering which timepiece to buy, it is always important to do independent research and seek guidance from authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces. But not all sub $3000 watches are made equally, so when purchasing a timepiece in this price range, it is important to consider the following criteria:

Watch Purpose

What are you using your watch for? I wouldn’t go diving with a dress watch that lacks lume and a screw-down crown. I also wouldn’t wear a chronograph with a tuxedo. When a watch costs thousands of dollars, it means that it has been purposefully built to meet specific standards.

Yes, today’s Avant-Garde fashion world is fluid, but when purchasing a watch for formal occasions, swimming, or with the flexibility to do both, it is important to consider the “style” of watch that best suits your needs.

Dive watches are extensively tested to ensure that they meet ISO standards. Chronographs offer a more complex level of timekeeping, used in automotive racing and aviation. So, I’ll ask you again… What are you using your watch for?

Brand Reputation

As with anything, branding can be a deciding factor for many people spending their hard-earned cash. When spending $3,000 or less, however, it is important to consider the specs, build quality, and overall package of a watch. It is much easier to “stretch your dollar” with a lesser-known independent brand than it would be for a much more established and well-known Maison.

At the end of the day, it is up to the individual to decide whether or not wearing a timepiece with pedigree supersedes wearing one without. Some people love having their watches recognized, while others prefer a more “stealth” approach to what they wear. There’s no incorrect answer here; for myself, I prefer getting the most out of my dollar, so having an inferior watch that is more “recognizable” doesn’t really scratch my itch.

Build Quality & Finishing

It took me a while to really understand the nuances of build quality and finishing. Most people don’t see the differences between a $200 watch when compared to a $2000 watch, but if you spend time with watches at various price points, it becomes easier to see.

Higher priced cases have greater variation of brushed and polished surfaces, with chamfered edges and greater dial complexity—applied indices, heat-treated blued hands, matching date wheels, and on and on. It becomes much more apparent with bracelets, too. A cheap bracelet is often clunky and jingly, whereas a more expensive bracelet conforms to the wrist and has a solid feel to it.

There is an intentionality in higher-end watches. They just feel right on the wrist, and wearing them is a reminder that horologists have put greater effort, materials, and research into the product you are wearing.

Movement

I know what you are thinking: quartz movements are cheap. Why would I spend $3000 on a watch with a quartz movement when I can purchase one from the mall for $70? Well, not all quartz movements are made equal. Some are accurate up to +/- 10 seconds per year, which is just about as accurate as a watch can be unless you throw a “smart” out in front of the word, but that’s neither here nor there.

I guess what I am trying to get at is this: an automatic or manual winding watch is not necessarily an indicator of quality or price. There are work-horse movements that are outsourced by watch manufacturers. These aren’t necessarily “bad” movements, as they are built to a specific standard, but they don’t elevate a watch alone. And the sub $3,000 price range is nearly devoid of in-house movements.

Still, some manufacturers manage to stretch their catalog’s value with proprietary (built specifically for them) or even in-house offerings. When considering an automatic or manual winding watch in this price range, look at accuracy, power reserve, and finishing—if an exhibition caseback is present—as this will be the best way to separate the mundane from the extraordinary.

Pricing & Availability

The following list of watches, curated by us here at Exquisite Timepieces, is available to purchase from authorized dealers. The best way to purchase a new watch is always from an authorized dealer, as you are ensuring the watch will arrive with a full warranty. You are also ensuring that your future watch will arrive unblemished while eliminating the chance of purchasing a fake watch, which is possible when shopping on online forums or the gray market.

Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized dealer for many of the watches below, and you can view the full range on our website from the convenience of your home. Of course, if you find yourself in Naples, Florida, please stop by our showroom Monday through Saturday from 10AM-5PM.

12 Best Luxury Watches Under $3,000

It wasn’t easy, and of course, there are too many watches available to make the cut. Still, when considering the best 12 luxury watches at around or under $3,000, we’ve curated a list of options worthy of your attention. So, please stay a while, enjoy the read, and let us know if you have any questions about any of these timepieces! 

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.2)

The Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is the impetus for Longines’ resurgence within the watch community. Not only is this watch absolutely gorgeous—I dream about the green bezel version—but it is also built to a high standard of finishing. Also offered in a 42mm variation, the smaller 39mm Spirit Zulu Time is made from stainless steel and is 13.2mm thick, with a 46.7mm lug-to-lug. 

This is as wearable as a watch can be, folks, offering superb legibility and the ability to easily slip under a cuff. What’s more, unlike most of its competition, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm is a true GMT, allowing the hour hand to be independently adjusted. The movement within also parallels the excellence of the case. It offers a COSC-certified ETA movement, exclusive to the brand, with 72 hours of power reserve. 

If you are looking for one of the best bargains in the industry, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm retails at just a hair over $3,000 ($3,050 on the leather strap and $3,150 on the bracelet). I love this watch so much that I just couldn’t keep it off this list! 

Grand Seiko Quartz (ref. SBGP013)

Grand Seiko, from a horological standpoint, is the pride of Japan. And yet, for decades, people have scrunched their nose at the prospect of spending “Swiss watch money” for a fancy Seiko. Fools—all of them. To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success.

This success, along with inflation, has put most of their offerings out of the $3,000 price range, but the SBGP013, at $2,600, is an extraordinary value proposition. At 40mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47mm and a case thickness of 10.6mm, this watch will fit like a glove for the vast majority of wrists out there, both small and large. Grand Seiko has also taken perfection to the next level with the introduction of the 9F85 quartz caliber, accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year!

The new caliber also has the ability to tweak the hour hand without stopping the seconds hand, ensuring precision timekeeping even when changing time zones. I can write about the merits of this timepiece for hours, but you really have to go see it in person to fully appreciate the Zaratsu polishing and superb overall package.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7720 4055-07 8 21 18)

What if I told you that you could purchase a vintage-inspired timepiece by an independent Swiss watchmaker with centuries of heritage, a 42mm stainless steel case, 100m of water resistance, a Swiss automatic movement, sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, and killer looks, all for $2,500? You probably wouldn’t believe me, and if you did, you would think that the watch was a limited release from an obscure microbrand (not that we dislike microbrands, of course!).

Oris is a name synonymous with Swiss watchmaking and yet the majority of their catalog has crept up in price over the past decade, many surpassing the $3,000 threshold. This modern iteration pays tribute to the original model, released in 1965, by retaining its vintage aesthetic and functional features while incorporating contemporary advancements in watchmaking technology.

Ball Engineer III Endurance 1917 GMT (ref. GM9100C-S2C-GYR)

Ball is a watchmaker that doesn’t receive the attention it rightfully deserves. Established in 1891 by Webb C. Ball in Cleveland, Ohio, Ball Watch Company has a rich history of producing high-quality timepieces. While it may not be as widely recognized as some of the larger Swiss watch brands, Ball has earned a solid reputation for its precise and durable watches, particularly in the field of railroad timekeeping.

The Ball Engineer III Endurance 1917 GMT is just about as handsome as a watch can be, with a gorgeous H-link bracelet, 41mm case, and superb finishing. The gray dial, adorned with 39 multi-colored micro gas tubes, dances with luminosity, ensuring visibility even in the darkest of nights. Equipped with a COSC-certified Ball in-house caliber RRM7337-C, this automatic movement ticks at 28,800 vibrations per hour, boasting a power reserve of 80 hours.

The red arrowhead hand gracefully glides across the 24-hour chapter ring, seamlessly indicating the second time zone. A screw-down crown and sapphire crystal are the quintessential finishing touches, elevating the timepiece to a robust daily wearer, suitable for all occasions and environments. Did I mention that all of this is available at an MSRP of $3,199?

Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Panda Automatic (ref. 86004A01)

Some watches elicit attention. Some watches evoke beauty. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Panda Automatic—yes, that is certainly a mouthful!—does both of these and then some. The panda dial, broad arrowhead handset, hint of red on the crown-side subdial, and the vintage lume all come together to create one of the most aesthetically balanced chronographs out there for under $3,000.

With a stainless steel 38mm case and a 14.8mm case thickness (due to the automatic chronograph movement), this chronograph is pleasant to wear, even for those with smaller wrists. Though it looks gorgeous in pictures, one has to put it on the wrist to really enjoy the subtleties of its beauty, such as the marvelous double-dome sapphire crystal and etched steel caseback.

The Nivada Grenchen watch boasts nine versatile features, including a time-out stopwatch for elapsed time, a regular stopwatch for precise measurements, and specialized functions for doctors, divers, aviators, and yachters, all in one accurate, waterproof, and shock-resistant timepiece. That’s a lot of functionality for a watch with an MSRP of $2,195.

NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 38 (ref. 164)

Enter the Germans—known for engineering with a rich history of horology. The second half of NOMOS’ name comes from a small town in Saxony called Glashütte, where German watchmaking was born hundreds of years ago. This town has a legacy of producing some of the finest timepieces in the world, each bearing the mark of German excellence and craftsmanship.

The NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 38 (ref. 164) is possibly the most German-looking timepiece I can think of. I close my eyes and think of German watchmaking, and there it is, with its Bauhaus-era numerals, heat-treated blued hands, and narrow, segmented lugs. This is a handsome watch, which can be dressed up or down due to the 38mm case diameter.

The in-house Alpha caliber is manual winding with 43 hours of power reserve and one of the principal feats of engineering that allows for the watch’s head-scratching 6.8mm thickness. I know what you are thinking. Okay, that sounds great, but how much is it? I’m smiling as I type $2,330. It’s that good of a watch.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver (ref. ZO3552)

I personally own a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Skin Diver, with the cream dial and stainless steel bezel—an ode to the 1953 release, which just so happened to make its announcement alongside Rolex and Blancpain at the 1953 Basel Fair. So yeah, this brand and collection have a lot of history and horological heritage.

The Zodiac Super Sea World Pro-Diver is a beefed-up and modern iteration of the original; this watch means business. It has a 42mm stainless steel case featuring 300m of water resistance and full ISO certification. It also has a ceramic bezel, sapphire glass crystal, and a very nice 7-link stainless steel bracelet.

And yes, I did mention this watch in the same breadth as Rolex and Blancpain, but it only costs $2,195. Not bad for membership to the “holy trinity” of Swiss dive watches. You heard that term here first!

Seiko Presage Limited Edition “Baby Snowflake” SJE073

Seiko’s Presage line is a step above their more entry-level models. With a focus on elegance and precision, Presage watches offer affordable luxury for those who appreciate both style and finishing in their timepieces. At $2,200, this is the cheapest watch from the Japanese Maison that offers the revered Zaratsu polishing.

The timepiece gets its nickname from the Grand Seiko Snowflake, which really elevated the brand to new heights when it was first released. You can lose yourself in the SJE073’s dial, an evocation of freshly fallen snow in a calm field. Applied indices, a robust stainless steel bracelet, and a very wearable 40mm case make this a package that is hard to resist.

This watch has been on my “must buy” list for some time, but alas, my wife will likely give me treatment colder than the dial if I bring home “another watch.” But you know what they say: ask for forgiveness, not permission (especially when it comes to adding a new timepiece that fits your budget).

DOXA Sub 300 Professional (ref. 821.10.351.10)

With its vintage design cues, orange dial, beads of rice bracelet, and COSC certification, the Doxa Sub 300 Professional is a dive watch for divers and enthusiasts alike. The robust disc-like case shape measures 42.5mm but actually wears much smaller due to its lugless design. The bracelet has a diver’s extension clasp for wetsuits, along with a generous taper for comfort.

38 hours of power reserve ensures that the watch will maintain its high accuracy for days on end.  Sometimes you need a watch that simultaneously “stands-out” and flies under the radar, and the Doxa Sub 300 Professional does just that. It’s the perfect congruence of bold and subdued, and its MSRP of $2490 demands your attention.

Tudor 1926 Black Dial 41mm (ref. M91650-0002)

The Tudor 1926 collection draws inspiration from the brand’s heritage and the classic designs of the 1920s. The collection’s name itself pays homage to the year when Tudor was established. This is an entry-level Tudor, but it really does punch far above its weight.

It has a signed screw-down crown, 100m of water resistance, a spectacular 7-link bracelet, and 38 hours of power reserve. The dial also has a “waffle” effect on it, which Tudor refers to as “embossed decoration,” along with domed Rhodium-plated hour markers and hands and a date at 3 o’clock.

The Goldilocks dimensions are 41mm in diameter and 9mm in thickness. They can be dressed up or down and fit virtually any wrist. Tudor also has one of the best warranties in the industry: 5 years. What are you waiting for? Yes, you can get a brand new Tudor for only $2,150, and this is as robust of a daily wearer as one can find from one of the most reputable entry-level luxury watchmakers around.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic 43mm (ref. WAZ2011.BA0842)

Growing up, those Tiger Woods Tag Heuer ads were really a genius marketing campaign. I didn’t play golf, nor did I watch it, but staring at those ads as I walked through the mall, I knew that I aspired to one day own a Tag Heuer watch. I still do. The Tag Heuer Formula 1 Automatic is striking, modern, and elegant—all at once.

It has a stainless steel 43mm case, a push-button brushed steel bracelet, and an automatic Swiss movement. A date complication at the 3 o’clock accentuates the sunray dial and applied indices.

Folks, this watch has an MSRP of $2,450, so yes, if brand recognition matters to you (and why shouldn’t it?), and if you’ve dreamed of a Tag Heuer for as long as I have (thanks, Tiger), then there should be nothing stopping you from pulling the trigger on the Tag Heuer Formula 1 Automatic.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

Yes, I am aware that both chronographs on this list are panda dials, but what could be better than a panda dial chronograph? The Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (pauses to take a breath) exudes quality. The watch is a modern reworking of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look.

Combining authentic 60s appeal with the exclusive H-31 automatic movement and a class-leading 60 hours of power reserve, its distinctive panda dial is a guaranteed eye-catcher. The chronograph has 100m of water resistance, a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal glass, and a very wearable case at 40mm in diameter and 14.45mm in thickness.

The watch is available on mesh steel or leather, with this specific reference coming with a supple cow-hide strap. With an MSRP of $2,295, this is a chronograph worthy of your consideration.

Closing Thoughts

As the unceasing winds of inflation continue to lighten our wallets, it is becoming harder and harder to find luxury timepieces at affordable prices. But the deals are still out there, and here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are happy to help you on your horological journey! 

Competition will continue to drive innovation, and as we enter a new golden age of horology, you can own a piece of history by choosing your next sub $3,000 entry level watch.