Alex DeVane, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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tudor black bay pro review

The Black Bay has gone through an influx of evolution over the years since it was originally released back in 2012. The first Black Bay releases received an incredible amount of praise for their old-school design, which partially helped upstart the trend of older-looking designs that swept the industry.

Tudor was very quick to capitalize on the raging success of this model, subtly tweaking the original design over the years to keep it in tune with the market.

Today, we will be looking at how the Black Bay evolved into the Black Bay Pro and what precise improvements were made to keep the customers happy while also building yet another identity that would further solidify the Black Bay name in greatness. 

History 

Tudor Black Bay Pro History

After the initial success of the original Black Bay release, Tudor put out numerous different color schemes for the piece, as well as switching the movement to the in-house Kenissi Caliber. Several tweaks and complications were added over time as well, causing the watch to be much more intricate and precise.

The main complaint that enthusiasts continued to nitpick about, however, was the sizing and dimensions of the case. Common consensus declared the 41mm case slab-sided, with measurements that didn’t meet the quota that similar style watches were exceeding.

Tudor then released the Black Bay 58 in 2018 with the same vintage appeal, but this time, they listened to critics and enthusiasts alike, equipping the 58 with a case that measured 39mm, with a thickness of 12mm, greatly slimming down the sizing and silencing the complaints. It took a very unique turn indeed that perhaps no one was expecting.

The changes seemed to have come out of left field, leaving the fanbase pleasantly surprised. Then, a few years later, in 2022, the Black Bay Pro was released, representing a brand new branch in the Black Bay family.

Case 

I guess the first question is, what exactly makes a watch a “pro?” My assumption would be that it means a lot of different things to many different people, but whatever desirable traits you place a high priority over, the Black Bay Pro has become a very welcome addition to the Black Bay family, proving to have several unique character traits that stand out, while at the same time, leaning back on the original design to make old fans feel good about the new features. 

The Pro, like the 58, gets a 39mm steel case. But unlike the 58, the Pro is a little thicker, measuring a little under 15mm thick. It is mostly brushed, with polished bevels that smooth out the metal, and the case back follows suit with the front as well, evenly polished to give a simple texture.

Remember, the primary focus of the Black Bay is to provide a vintage feel that pays homage to the simple design of older days. That’s why the fixed steel bezel is black-filled with a 24-hour scale that is reminiscent of the first-generation Explorer II reference 1655.

It is the star of the show on the case, no doubt; the thick black numbers blend quite nicely with the handsome radial brushing, adding another layer of smoothness that reflects back on the other features of the case as if it alone sets the tone. 

While the aesthetic is nothing groundbreaking, it does exactly what Black Bay fans want, which will prove to be quite desirable in terms of pure looks. Another feature that the case brings to the table is the 200m water resistance made possible by the screw-down crown.

Diver fans will be pleased for sure, but it comes as no surprise to those who are familiar with Tudor divers, as they are known to be some of the most durable and protective pieces on the market.

Speaking of the crown, the Pro comes with an all-new crown design, where the thin profiled and aluminum tube of previous designs has been replaced by a classic, deeply notched crown that mirrors watches of days past. 

It’s a very simple case. Classy and subtle, with no truly standout features. Yet, it proves to fit very well with the rest of the design, as you can definitely tell the kind of aesthetic Tudor seeks to create. In my opinion, they do a spectacular job of nailing that vintage feel, and older Black Bay fans will undoubtedly find the Pro’s case to be one of the most appealing designs created. 

Dial 

At first, the dial feels like yet another classic homage to older models. It has a matte-grained texture over a dark black color, serving as an effective backdrop for the more notable features.

The railroad minute track and applied markers scream sophistication as they have a cream color that feels very familiar, with the thick shapes holding true to that classic Tudor feel.

The dots, rectangles, and triangles are made of thick ceramic material that displays the simplistic nature of the design, complementing the same familiarity that fans will undoubtedly notice. The hands and indices also come with a 3D effect, enhancing the aesthetic with an increased sense of technicality. 

One of the best features of the Pro is the independent 24-hour hand that can be used to display both an additional time zone and whether it’s day or night.

This yellow snowflake hand is very noticeable, bringing the real GMT function to life, and the date window that accompanies all real GMTs is positioned at the 3 o’clock.

The domed profile of the dial will undoubtedly turn heads. It definitely helps that the dial complements the smooth nature of the bezel so well, as, in my opinion, the bezel is the true aesthetic star of the show. The dial’s black and cream colors are divine and breathe another element of classic vintage elegance that rounds out the dated feel.

It also feels very fresh, a new take, if you will, on a design that is well-known across the industry. My favorite aspect of the dial is, without question, the cream-colored snowflake hands, as they provide such a distinguished layer of detail to the canvas and effortlessly elevate the entire aesthetic.

The impressive package brought to the table holds true, as I view the dial as the innovative leader of the piece, setting in motion all of the other features to give them their own spotlight. Again, is it too flashy? Absolutely not. Is it bold and bright?

Not in the slightest. But its smooth nature seems all the more luxurious when all of the features are brought together to be admired under the same light, and the dial serves as the centerpiece that connects all the dots. 

Movement

Inside the Pro is the same movement as the Black Bay GMT, the Calibre MT5652 made by Kenissi, a long-time Tudor associate. It’s an automatic movement that is chronometer-certified by COSC and comes equipped with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring.

This causes the Pro to beat at 4Hz and stores up to 70 hours of power once fully charged. Tudor’s commitment to relentless precision holds true for the Pro, as it comes with an accuracy rating of -2 and +4 seconds. 

Straps

Many strap options accompany the Black Bay Pro. First, you have the steel bracelet, which will prove to be the most relevant due to its classic profile that pairs nicely with the rest of the casing. It features entirely brushed flat surfaces and a folding clasp with a T-fit micro-adjusting system.

The Pro is extremely comfortable, following the same reputation as other Black Bays. While not exactly a thin watch, the Black Bay Pro manages to wear like one, as some of the highest praise I could find concerning this piece is the extreme flexibility in sizing and how it fits nearly everyone. 

The Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and fabric with a folding clasp or with a black-and-yellow Jacquard fabric strap that aims to be a little more classy. For me, the obvious choice would be the steel bracelet, though the other variants don’t look bad by any means.

It just seems like the Pro was designed to be fitted with a bracelet of the same material and that any other attempt to do something different would look out of place.

Of course, there will be some of you who prefer the fabric straps, and I will say, depending on the sizing, the strap does make the watch appear a little slimmer, which could be a big enough reason to go for a different fit.

Needless to say, alternative straps could provide numerous benefits, depending on the wearer’s preferences and style. 

On the Wrist

Tudor Black Bay Pro On Wrist

This is one of those watches that you’re supposed to wear every day. To be honest, there’s not really an appropriate time to take it off other than when you go to sleep at night.

Because of the incredible water resistance and industrious protection of the case, the Pro can withstand any climate you find yourself in, all while maintaining stupifying accuracy. It’s all too familiar.

We’ve seen these kinds of pieces before, especially from Tudor, and they never cease to impress. I find that watches that take the best values from multiple different departments (aesthetics, functionality, durability, etc.) prove to be among the greats that outlast the test of time, all the while building their own cult following.

While I wouldn’t say that the Tudor Pro takes a dramatic step away from similar models, it is a very welcome addition to the family that makes subtle improvements here and there and will appeal to fans who are previously familiar with the quality that Tudor produces. 

As far as fashion goes, it will be more difficult to talk about what this watch doesn’t go with. In other words, you’re going to have a tough time making this watch look bad. The subtle colors can pair with any outfit, either serving as a pleasing contrast or a nice complement to any shirt or top.

I guess my only minor complaint aesthetically would be the bright nature of the GMT hand that looks a little out of place when compared with the lighter cream shade of the minute and hour hands. I understand the direction, but (at least when looking at this watch up close) it is a little distracting.

The good heavily outweighs the bad, though, as I believe this watch demonstrates one of the most effective designs that watchmakers can hope to achieve—that being a subtle nature and a vintage feel. The steel is smooth, the dial is rich, and the tone is old-fashioned, which is right up my alley for favorable looks.

It fits very well, too, and is about as subtle as heavy-duty divers get (though it somehow feels wrong to label this watch as a heavy-duty diver).  It’s just heavy enough to remind you that it is there and what it is capable of, but at the same time, the comfort assures an all-day wear that never irritates or aches your wrist.

All in all, this is a wholehearted recommendation that will work for just about anyone, no matter your style. No matter your preferences, I believe there is something here for anyone to enjoy, and I’ve yet to unveil the best part of this watch that will make you fall even more in love: the price. 

Pricing and Availability

For the non-steel straps, the Black Bay Pro comes out to an even $4,050, and for the steel bracelet, the price jumps up to $4,375. All in all, it is an incredible price for what you get, not to mention that used pieces typically range anywhere from $3,700 to $4,000, depending on the condition.

You can find the Tudor Black Bay Pro from Tudor authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor.

Conclusion

So there we have it. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is quite an achievement, serving as one of the many statements of elegance and precision that Tudor prides themselves on, thriving from the designs of the past to create something spectacular.

There are not too many instances where a watch can suit literally anyone, but the Pro blows away expectations. I believe Tudor set out to create a piece with everyone in mind, taking into account what worked in the past and what exactly they needed to improve. We are left with a masterpiece, which only makes you wonder what else Tudor has in store for us as their reign on the market continues.

If you are hesitant about pulling the trigger or are in the market for a watch of this caliber, I can’t encourage you enough to go for it; you will not be disappointed.

cartier tank francaise small vs medium

For over a century, the Cartier Tank has been ceaselessly impressing the market with its stunning, innovative work that has left enthusiasts speechless.

Cartier has been committing itself to excellence since the dawn of the luxury watch breakout, redefining what it truly means to create timepieces, leaving the market in disbelief upon every release.

The brand has one of the most esteemed reputations, so it’s no surprise that the Tank Francaise has lived up to the legacy.

Throughout its long reign as one of Cartier’s most iconic tanks, the Francaise has undergone its fair share of variations and updates, resulting in a wider range of options for customers to collect and enjoy. But how exactly has it aged, and what can new customers expect from purchasing a small Francaise vs purchasing a medium Francaise?

Most importantly, how do the sizes compare, and what exactly is right for you? In this article, we will compare the small and medium Francaise and look at the rich history that stands behind this masterpiece, as well as explain what will be the most optimal fit for you. 

A Brief History of the Francaise

Cartier Tank Francaise History

In 1917, Louis Cartier would forever change the luxury watch industry by creating the Cartier Tank. With the flat brancards, the clean, crisp lines, and the smooth lugs, the Tank has one of the most unique aesthetics we have ever seen, inspiring countless variations while managing to hold on to what made the original so successful. 

In 1996, Cartier would go on to launch the Francaise to embody the original design of the Tank while adding a modern flare. The Francaise is technically the first Tank with an integrated bracelet that was designed to specifically complement the case.

The Francaise also comes with both an angular case and an angular bracelet that slims down the size altogether, attributing a much more sophisticated feel. 

The word “Francaise” is the feminine singular of the word French, which is quite fitting for a chic design like this, as it has become one of the most desired lady accessories during its reign.

In fact, Princess Diana is famously known for wearing a gold Francaise on numerous occasions, paying even more tribute to the famous legacy, shooting the piece into stardom, and causing it to become a modern icon. 

One of the most interesting dynamics of the Francaise is the twin linear, parallel bezels, which double as the lugs.

It’s not easy to preserve the iconic style of the original tank while keeping a much more preserved silhouette, but the angular brancards give the watch a sporty twist that blends with the ends of the bracelet to outline the lugs in a perfect manner that captures exactly the kind of feel Cartier was going for.

The watch takes both a rectangular and hexagonal shape, throwing quite the funky flavor into the mix that holds its own among the refined aesthetics. 

It’s safe to say that this watch takes any element of design and perfectly embodies it. There’s not one specific category that the Francaise fits into.

It’s a luxury watch, that’s for certain, and the refined elegance will most likely be the most appealing feature. But there is much more than meets the eye that you may not expect from a brand like Cartier. 

This watch seems to be much more daring and bold, which would be risky for any other brand, but Cartier has created something truly special that has broken the barriers of what traditional elegance can mean. 

How do the sizes compare, though? Depending on what you prefer, the small and medium sizes of the Francaise fit a plethora of styles and accommodations, but how exactly do you know which is the right fit for you?

While we compare both sizes, take note of what each Francaise variant has to offer so that you can get a better understanding of the specific strengths each brings to the table. 

The Francaise Small

Cartier Tank Francaise Small

The small model measures 25.7mm x 21.2mm, with a thickness of 6.8mm. This sizing is obviously optimal for fairly petit wrists and will prove to have a much more delicate look.

The small gives off a traditional feel, leaning back on the design of the original Tank while still carrying a fair amount of that Francaise boldness. 

This particular model was most likely engineered for those who prefer a demure look so as to not overpower the chic traditionality of Cartier women’s accessories. It also appears to be much more vintage, capturing an older style that will appeal to a fairly large number of customers.

Some may be turned off by the modern aesthetic of bigger sizes, so this version will prove to be the best for those who value the classics.

The small also features more compact proportions that seem to be more well-rounded and precise than bigger models. I, for one, prefer a tighter watch where everything flows and feels symmetrical, and when looking at smaller sizes, you can expect the Francaise to hold true.

And, of course, you have to admire the price. The smaller size lends itself to a much cheaper cost, typically rounding out at $22,000.

The Francaise Medium 

Cartier Francaise Medium

Then, we have the medium, measuring 32mm x 27mm, with a thickness of 7.1mm. This model will appeal to those with a little bit larger wrists, measuring pretty big for a women’s watch.

The boldness of the Francaise aesthetic is now on full display, offering a much more substantial presence on the wrist that incorporates that modern look. 

For the medium, the proportions are much larger, which naturally makes the watch far more noticeable. The numerals on the dial have also been slightly adjusted to define the bezel, evenly suiting the larger case. 

Because of the size, the unique elements of the Francaise are much more noticeable, which will appear to those who may desire a slightly elevated demeanor that looks a little different than the original tank. Since there are more pristine materials needed to suit the case, the medium size is more expensive, totaling $26,000.

Cartier Tank Francaise Small vs Medium – How to Choose

Aside from the size difference, the small will appeal to those who prefer the preserved and vintage feel of the original Tank, while the medium will be for those who enjoy the bold twist that the Francaise incorporates. 

Don’t get me wrong; I’m not saying that those who prefer the smaller size would be better off looking for another Tank variant; the Francaise aesthetic will undoubtedly appeal to anyone who enjoys an elegant and curvy case, but the medium is much more straightforward with how it decides to display all of those modern features. 

It seems like no matter the watch, there will always be two sides to every spectrum. Some simply like an older feel to their timepiece, while others are more appreciative of the modern designs that continue to shape the industry. There is no right or wrong choice; it simply comes down to preference. 

Conclusion

The Francaise is a masterpiece. Plain and simple. I would go as far as to say that it is one of the most prevalent women’s watches in the entire industry.

Cartier deserves all the recognition that they get, as their reputation lives up to the quality of their pieces every single time. Finding the perfect combination of modern themes and vintage history is not easy by any means. 

Cartier’s commitment to excellence extends to the birth of the brand itself. It’s because of the iconic pieces that fueled the first generation that we are able to get masterpieces like the Francaise.

As the market continues to evolve and designs continue to get bolder, Cartier will be one of the brands you want to keep an eye on because they have been pioneering evolution in the industry for over a century, and I have no doubt they will continue to be one of the most influential brands in the luxury space. 

If you are in the market for something that breaks the rules and exceeds everything you thought you knew about chic wristwear, I cannot recommend the Francaise enough.

rolex submariner 40mm vs 41mm

In the years that Rolex has dominated the market, we have seen them have their fair share of changes and revolutions to further cement the brand as one of the best to ever do it.

So much traction and publicity surrounds Rolex that every minor change they make to their lineup winds up being a major headline. One of the most recent big changes is the cancellation of the Submariner 40mm and the rise of the 41mm.

The Submariner series is a model that has continued to disrupt the entire industry. Part of the reason Rolex has reigned supreme for so long is because of the iconic legacy that this watch holds.

Since its release, the Submariner has always been sized at 40mm or less, which is why it was such a major headline when Rolex suddenly enlarged the Oyster case to 41mm and canceled the production of the 40mm altogether.

But what other features were changed besides the size, and why did Rolex feel like it was necessary to make these changes? Today, we will be comparing the 40mm to the 41mm and examining what stands out between the two and how one could potentially outperform the other. 

40mm

Rolex Submariner 40mm

The History of the Submariner is one of great importance. In a way, the Submariner is responsible for the reputation of Rolex itself. The cultural relevance that this piece holds is, quite frankly, too massive to capture fully.

Just know that everything that has come after the original Submariner has—in some way—been shaped by the iconic design.

When Rolex created their first diver in 1953, it wasn’t until six years later, in 1959, that the Submariner case was increased to 40mm, and the crown guards were added.

Over time, the design stuck, and with how famous Rolex is for hardly ever tampering with their designs, the Submariner still stood out as one of the least altered models in the entire catalog. 

The Reference 6204 is generally accepted as the debut Submariner. Upon its debut, it drew instant comparisons to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which is healthily considered one of if not the first dive watch ever created.

Since it shared many of the same features as the Fifty Fathoms (jet black dial, same hour and minute hands, and an inverted triangle), it was difficult to tear away and make an authentic name for itself. But Rolex eventually revealed a trick up its sleeve that perhaps no one saw coming.

The Oyster case was equipped with a specific winding crown system that came with a gasket that could screw into a tube inside of the case itself.

This proved to offer a tremendous level of water protection that outshined the competition, eventually causing the Submariner to become the first-ever diver to be able to outlast 100 meters of water pressure. 

The aesthetical prowess of the Submariner cannot be understated either. It has a sophisticated nature while also being subtle enough to style with casual wear.

The more models that were produced, the more seriously the community viewed them until, eventually, after a decade of fine-tuning and perfecting, The Submariner finally settled down and seemed to be consistent with its design. In 1959, the ref. 5512 provided a solid foundation for all Submariner models going forward, and the design has been virtually consistent ever since. 

The turn of the century found increased demand for a larger submariner, with some suggesting that 40mm was much too small for a modern sports model. It made sense. Watches of similar style were advancing in size.

This caused Rolex to take a step back and subtly refine the case of the 1166xx series. While still 40mm, the Super Case of the 1166xx had thicker lugs, crowns, and guards, which gave the impression of a more durable watch.

This caused a fair amount of controversy as some fans appreciated the thicker size, while some still longed for the classic design of past references. 

It would take until 2020, however, until Rolex finally decided to make a significant change that proved to silence the controversy and please all of its buyers.

The 1266xx was released as the first-ever Submariner to exceed 40mm, declaring the end of an age and the start of something new and spectacular. 

41mm

Rolex Submariner 41mm

With softened elements that provide an increased sense of elegance, the new Submariner also keeps the angular design of past reference models, causing a perfect blend of new and old features to please both sides of the spectrum.

It captures more of a vintage feel, taking surprisingly short strides to separate itself from its predecessor, holding on to the older look much tighter than anyone expected.

The lugs are longer and slimmer, and the crown guards are significantly thinner, trimming the aesthetic down and supplying the watch with a much more tapered profile, so for the Submariner fans who perhaps thought that previous generations were too bulky, this new edition may prove to be ideal. 

Other measurements have been changed aside from the case. For example, the bracelet has been increased from 20mm to 21mm.

There are now two crowns that appear on the dial, and the “Swiss Made” text that used to be on older models is now separated by the Rolex crown between the two words.  

Perhaps the most innovative feature is the upgraded movement. For more than 30 years, the Submariner has been driven by the Cal. 3135, one of the most popular and finest mass-produced movements ever crafted.

Even so, Rolex decided it was time to retire the dated movement and focus their sights on something fresh. Now, the Submariner—and many other Rolex models—are powered by the Cal. 3235, which has revolutionized modern pieces, improving upon nearly everything within, making them more efficient and more precise. 

The 41mm seeks only to improve, aiming to upgrade every aspect of the older models. It doesn’t try to be too much, not exactly flipping the original on its head, but doing just enough to make noticeable improvements.

Rolex has maintained the Submariner’s reputation through their innovative minds, evolving not only the Submariner but the majority of their pieces to fit the new demand of the market. It’s no wonder how they have a virtually flawless reputation. 

40mm vs. 41mm—How to choose. 

As of today, Rolex no longer sells the 40mm Submariner, though—in my opinion—there is no reason why anyone would realistically prefer the 40mm to the 41mm other than rarity value. The 41mm is simply the better alternative, as it improves virtually everything, leaving nothing more to be desired.

From a collector’s perspective, you may be eager to get your hands on one of the retired 40mm, but other than a few specific instances, I would have to wholeheartedly recommend the 41mm as the superior piece. 

Conclusion

Rolex is a brand that constantly demands respect. Even though most would agree it took them much too long to upgrade the Submariner, the common consensus is that the new 41mm is one of the most spectacular watches they have ever produced.

For a brand to stay at the top for so long, it cannot be pushed around by the market; it has to adapt to change while making innovative decisions to propel publicity and get both new and old fans excited for improvements.

The Submariner did just that. Now, as it continues its reign as one of the top divers available, it’s only a matter of time before the next upgrade is needed because the luxury watch market is never silent, and when brands start getting too comfortable, they will undoubtedly miss out on the next big thing.

If I can leave you with any advice, it would be to trust Rolex. History has proven that they never get too comfortable, as they are always seeking to push the boundaries and meet the enviable shift in the market with their own shifts as well.

fake gold rolex vs real

Fake Gold Rolex vs Real

Alex DeVane

April 16, 2025

An authentic Rolex watch is one of the most sought-after pieces on the market. Rolex has become more than just a simple watch brand, appealing across the world as a testament to fashion, blending themes of pristine elegance to give their fans something truly unique.

The grand appeal of Rolex all over the world has inevitably created a vast market of counterfeit watches that seek to cheaply emulate that iconic style everyone is so familiar with. These replicas are very deceiving, fooling even the most seasoned collectors, so how do you tell a real from a fake?

There are various features to look out for that indicate a real Rolex watch, including the authenticity of the gold. Today, we will explore the steps you can take to ensure that the gold Rolex you have coveted for so long is true to its name, eliminating any suspicion that it could be a fake piece hiding under a very convincing case. 

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Gold Rolex

Gold Rolex

At first glance, fakes fool everyone. A good fake is almost impossible to sniff out just by looking from afar, but upon picking up the watch and taking a closer look, the weight can betray a fake almost immediately. The weight of a watch is a representation of its materials.

In other words, the higher the quality of the materials, the heavier it’s going to be. When fake gold is used, the watch is very light, and if you were to hold the two in either hand, it’s very obvious which one is real.

The absence of weight is almost always the first clue that multiple corners have been cut. Authentic gold feels like authentic gold. Understand that Rolex only uses 18k gold for their watches. From the get-go, if a seller is claiming that the watch is made of 14k or 10k, that’s a certain fake.

Rolex also does not use any other metallic alloys in any of their gold watches, meaning that if a watch is marked as “gold plated” or “gold-filled,” it is a counterfeit. 

Look at the dial as well. Rolex dials are often made of enamel or mother-of-pearl, dubbing them some of the highest-quality dials on the market.

Obviously, counterfeiters will not have access to pristine materials like these, so they will turn to cheaper dial materials or cut corners on the finishing.

Fake dials have far less amounts of polishing on their surface, so look closely for any signs of unevenness and make sure that the polishing is thorough all the way around.

On a genuine gold watch, the crown should be made of 18k gold as well, engraved with the Rolex logo. Sometimes, counterfeiters have skipped the crown altogether, making for a pretty straightforward telltale sign that you’re being sold a fake.

Also, be sure to examine the watch’s documentation carefully. Genuine Rolex’s come with certificates of authenticity, a warranty card, and an instruction manual.  If any of these are missing or counterfeit, the watch is fake. 

The movement hints at authenticity. Though it is significantly more difficult to tell, the speed and precision on which the watch is operating is a clear indicator of how real or fake the watch is.

Rolex’s are known for their flawless precision, so look out for an erratically running watch or a watch that reads the wrong time altogether. 

These are a few of the clear features that I encourage you to look out for when looking for a gold Rolex—or any Rolex, for that matter. A very well-made fake will be tremendously hard to spot, but you want to be sure you are doing the most you can to prevent yourself from being scammed. 

Are Fake Gold Rolex Watches Worth It?

 But as much as I have encouraged you to avoid fakes, there is genuine debate among the watch community about whether or not fakes are worth it. This leads us to question if it is worth investing in a fake or if they are truly scams through and through. Let’s dive in a little deeper. 

In some cases, if the fake watch is made of higher-quality materials that closely resemble the real version, it can be worth it. A good counterfeiter will typically put in extra effort to make their fake resemble the authenticity of a Rolex as closely as possible.

Not all fakes are street scam watches that will break within an hour of wearing them. Some are very exceptionally made and can serve as a cheap alternative if you are simply going for the Rolex-like aesthetic.

There is a fine line between a scam watch and a counterfeit watch, so be very careful and make sure that if you were to buy a fake, the counterfeiter knows what they are doing. Don’t let your excitement blind you, and do your own research before deciding if a fake is worth it or not. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake. 

The only advice that I can give is to be observant and do your own research. Establish what kind of watch you want, and if at all possible, go to a Rolex store or order your piece from the Rolex website.

Third-party retailers (like Exquisite Timepieces) offer them as well, but far more research will be needed if you are going to go that route to make sure the watch you are getting is legitimate. Get hand-held experience as well.

If you are presented with the opportunity to feel the watch before you buy it, I can’t recommend that you take it enough. The weight of the watch is the number one telltale sign, and upon lifting it, you can usually always determine the piece’s legitimacy. 

Conclusion

So now you know. Look for the signs, pay attention, and be wary of scams. Real gold Rolex’s are some of the most majestic pieces the watch world has ever seen, and if you are eager to experiment in the world of luxury watches, then a lot of personal responsibility is associated with this new-found journey.

Fakes are convincing, and in some cases, fakes can be a great alternative, but there is only one true Rolex whose legacy cannot be cheaply emulated.

I wish you the best of luck with your journey, and I hope that you take special care to learn the ins and outs of authentic pieces because it is truly a blessing to discover how these watch engineers continue to defy the meta and innovate the industry. That’s something that cannot be recreated.

bvlgari vs cartier

Bvlgari vs Cartier

Alex DeVane

April 15, 2025

Bvlgari and Cartier. Two of the most pristine, highly coveted, and luxurious watches on the market. These two brands stand at the forefront of celebrity watchwear, as both have been seen time and time again attributing to some of the biggest names in fashion.

Both brands date back to the 1800s, with a legacy as rich and as glamorous as their jewelry. These two titans have had centuries to perfect their craft, but how do they compare to each other?

Come with me today as we go on a detailed journey through time, exploring all of the ways that both of these brands were so influential while also examining what sets them apart from each other. 

History and Brand Heritage

Cartier Watches

Cartier was founded in 1847 and has its headquarters located in Paris, France. Bvlgari was founded in 1884, with its headquarters in Rome, Italy. Both brands reside in two of the most esteemed cities in the world, whose contributions to fashion are some of the most iconic to date.

Perhaps one of the well-known claims to fame among Cartier fans is the recognition by Great Britain’s King Edward VII, who declared that Cartier was “The jeweler of kings and the kings of jewelers.”

Before they explored watchmaking, Cartier were jewelers responsible for producing rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings of the highest quality. It wasn’t until 1904—a time when pocket watches were in style—that they manufactured their first wristwatch.

There is some debate about whether or not Cartier was responsible for the first wristwatch ever. Patek Phillipe technically crafted the first ladies’ watch shortly before, but we can all agree that Cartier is responsible for skyrocketing the wristwatch to its level of fame.

Cartier’s first wristwatch for men was called the Santos—named after Louis Cartier’s friend and pilot who complained to Louis about how hard it was to use his pocket watch while flying a plane.

As of 2020, Cartier has over 6 billion in annual revenue and a brand value of $12.2 billion. They are also ranked the 56th most valuable watch brand by Forbes. 

Bvlgari’s history dates back to the 1920s, with early high jewelry creations reflecting the design of traditional French schools, incorporating platinum and diamonds with a geometric pattern.

The genuine Italian style emerged in the 40s, with pieces embracing sunny shades of yellow gold and rich Serpenti designs.

By the mid-50s, Bvlgari introduced daring chromatic combinations, blending precious and colored stones to invoke a newfound appreciation of the Roman landscape. This led to the Cabochon becoming a hallmark of the brand. 

Bvlagari has a brand value of $5.4 billion. And rank #45 among the top 50 most-loved brands in Europe. 

Overall, I would say that Cartier gets more attention than Bvlgari, especially in the US. On that same list, where Bvlgari ranks 45th in most popular brands in Europe, Cartier comes in at #32.

It makes sense; they are both European brands that have been around for a very long time, so naturally, they are going to get more traction in Europe.

They may be evenly matched across the sea, but in the US, it would be my guess that Cartier would be much more recognized because it is one of the most popular brands among Hollywood celebrities, getting frequent publicity from famous actors or models sporting elegant wristwear designed to catch the eye of the public.

Both brands, however, are some of the highest quality pieces that you can get, and just because one might be a little more popular doesn’t mean that the other is lacking in any regard. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these two brands shine and why exactly they are so coveted. 

Model Variety

Bvlgari watches

Watchmaking is an art, and just like any art, excessive inspiration is required for artists to shine. Both Cartier and Bvlgari are two of the most inspirational brands the industry has ever seen, countlessly contributing time and time again and instilling a sense of refinery that has swiftly guided the trajectory of the entire craft.

Both of them do it in grand style as well, with each brand having a large selection of timepieces with hundreds of models.

They both produce pieces with hand-wound, self-winding, and quartz watch movements, with materials varying from stainless steel to gold. In some cases, many pieces from both brands will also have diamond bezel rings, accentuating the esteemed level of glamour.

Cartier watches have gained the reputation of aging like fine wine. The technology within every piece is built to last, and the exterior is designed to protect that technology for as long as possible.

Cartier pieces are more classical, almost looking like relics from a forgotten time, instilling within you a sense of nostalgia for a time that you never even knew.

Pieces like the Tank Must and the Quartz Silver ooze with that classical glory that is impossible to describe unless you’re physically holding the watch in your hands.

The square dials and thick Roman numerals have become a second-hand association with the brand, so iconic that sometimes you forget that other pieces can also use the same aesthetic. 

To say that these watches are utilitarian would probably be a stretch. The Tank and the Crash are two very tough builds, but they almost stand in an element of their own, so refined that you forget how durable they are.

That, to me, is an incredible achievement. Needless to say, Cartier watches will hold up in rough environments, but because of how pristine they are, you would be very foolish to wear these kinds of watches somewhere they could get damaged. 

The Panthere is not only one of the most popular women’s models but one of the most coveted models out of Cartier’s entire catalog. It is also part of the reason why Cartier watches are so popular among celebrities.

In the 90s, “It girls” like Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna were seen sporting the watch, and in 2017, when the model was revived, it picked up right where it left off on the wrists of icons like Dua Lipa and Zendaya.

Remember, Cartier also specializes in jewelry, so its female fanbase is perhaps even larger than the males who only concern themselves with the brand’s watches. 

Bvlgari’s claim to fame is the geometrically perfect cases and the bold and unique style that has also made them a favorite among celebrities. The Serpenti collection has gained a cult-level following because of its mesmerizing design.

This elegant line was first released in the 1940s, with the focus on delivering a pristine jewelry-like feel to a simple wristwatch. The models under the Serpenti Sedutorri have three shades of gold—rose, white, and yellow—with both ultra-precious and pave diamond renditions.

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic is one of their most intricate pieces ever, with a flying tourbillon movement called the Caliber BVL 288 that measures only 1.9mm thick, with a total case thickness of only 3.95mm.

Achieving a measurement like that is not an easy task and is a testament to these watch engineers’ extremely high skill levels. The Bvlgari Bvlgari collection looks a little more like what a traditional watch fan would be used to.

Interestingly enough, it was originally released in 1975 as a gift for the company’s 100 top customers, but it gained so much popularity that Bvlgari decided to turn it into an entire collection, shortly becoming the company’s highest-selling watch after its release. 

In case you didn’t already know, Bvlgari also had tremendous success in the jewelry department apart from their watch game.

This, again, is why the women’s Serpenti Silver watch is one of their most popular items. In the watch world, ladies tend to be drawn to the finer things, often seeking a piece that displays an esteemed level of luxury, incorporating rich gold or fancy diamonds into the design. Its no wonder why the Serpenti Silver is such a common pick among women. 

Both Cartier and Bvlgari offer an incredible amount of variety. So much so that it’s tough to compare. Obviously, both of these pieces are mostly renowned for their incredible sense of luxury, providing the most elegant materials and breathtaking designs.

However, if you are a fan of the simpler things, I think the Bvlgari might be a little more up your alley simply because they offer more traditional designs than Cartier. Of course, this is a very niche recommendation.

I cannot sit here and say one brand is better than the other; I can only sit here and tell you what I think, which is why, on the flip side, if you’re looking for a more luxurious piece that is like a little piece of history on your wrist, Cartier is the way to go. 

Design

I like to believe that both of these brands follow the same design philosophies, prioritizing pristine design and flawless precision both on the inside and outside of the piece.

Just think, both of these brands are more than a century old, that’s a lot of time to perfect your craft. I would say that both of these brands are as close to perfection as you can get, at least in terms of reliability and refinement. 

As I have said before, Cartier feels like a historic testament on your wrist, arguably looking even better with age. Because of their heritage, Cartier watches also hold their value for an incredibly long time.

They prioritize both shape and proportion in their pieces, holding strong to the belief that proportion takes a watch’s elegance to another level while the shaping provides a sense of depth and detail. For Cartier, symmetry is a way to provide that unparalleled aesthetical intricacy, giving their pieces a unique perspective that has become truly iconic.

Bvlgari women’s models typically use quartz movement, prioritizing simplicity and classical elegance, while the men’s models have a more contemporary design, faintly following the outline of a more traditional sports watch.

Over the years, Bvlgari has definitely adapted more to the modern environment, taking their original designs and refining them in a way that would please the modern fanbase.

When comparing the two, Bvlgari comes off as far more contemporary, especially with its aluminum line, and with the new-found addition of ultra-thin models, Bvlgari is definitely making a name for itself as a forerunner for modern designs. 

These are two of the most well-designed pieces on the market, and personal preference will play a massive role when deciding which brand suits you best. One thing is for certain: these are two of the most consistent brands on the market, and no matter what you choose, I guarantee you will be satisfied. 

Build Quality and Materials

The material of the watch determines how durable and how extravagant the piece really is. If you use cheap, second-hand materials, your watch will not hold up under strenuous environments.

Cutting corners and skimping out on high-quality, authentic metals will ultimately lead to the natural decline of the watch’s overall condition. Needless to say, when looking for watches on the same level as Cartier and Bvlgari, high-quality materials should be one of your top priorities. 

Cartier watches can come either fully paved in diamond or a combination of gold and steel. The gold and steel varieties can either combine on one piece or reside alone on your watch, depending on preference.

The hands and straps—unless a different leather strap is used—typically follow in the footsteps of the casing, and their dials can come in either Guilloche, Enamel, or Sapphire crystal. 

Bvlgari uses gold, stainless steel, ceramic, and titanium, as well as their relatively new aluminum line, which has taken the watch world by storm. Their dials typically follow suit with their case materials, and some are even made with silk or wood. The hands are made from 18k gold, steel, titanium, or sometimes even brass. 

Movements

Cartier uses a mixture of both in-house movements and third-party movements. A few of their self-manufactured movements include the 1904-PS MC, which is one of their most reliable automatic movements that powers pieces like the Calibre de Cartier.

The 9611 MC and the 9452 MC are the high-end skeleton and tourbillion movements seen in the mesmerizing Santos de Cartier Skeleton and Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillion. And for smaller, more elegant watches, the 1917 MC powers pieces like the Tank Louis Cartier.

As far as third-party movements are concerned, ETA powers a few of the older and entry-level models, Piaget powers some ultra-thin dress watches, and the Jaeger-LeCoultre was previously used to power older Tank and Ballon Bleu models. 

Bvlgari uses mostly in-house movements, but they are known to occasionally use third-party ones as well. A couple of their original designs include the BVL 138—the world’s thinnest automatic movement responsible for the iconic Octo Finissibo, and a robust automatic movement used in more classic models, the BVL 191.

The Octo Finissibo series as a whole is undeniably groundbreaking and worth checking out just to admire the intricacy that was required to create something of this magnitude.

Like Cartier, Bvlgari has been known to use ETA movements as well, with the majority of the women’s watches featuring ETA-based quartz movements. 

Both of these brands are responsible for some of the most intricate and highly advanced movements that the market has ever seen. They have earned these achievements due to decades of hard work to adapt and innovate, always looking to stand out in the industry. 

Pricing

Bvlgari’s pricing starts at around $2,700, while Cartier’s starts at $3,350. Because of its wider recognition, Cartier pieces are going to cost more, but does that mean the quality is better? Not necessarily. Both of these brands are going to be some of the highest-quality pieces you can get.

To say one is objectively better than the other would be wrong, but I can say that Cartier watches are more valuable and will most likely be able to hold more value over time.

My guess is that if you’re seriously looking at buying a Cartier or Bvlgari, then prices aren’t the biggest concern. If that were the case, then my best advice is to seriously take a look and consider the benefits both brands bring to the table and determine what suits you best. 

Conclusion

What more is there left to say? I seriously can’t recommend these two brands enough. They are some of the most unique and versatile options out there that prioritize the highest of qualities above all else. True veterans through and through that only get better through each passing decade.

The European style is something that I greatly admire because of the rich history within each piece. The watches communicate so much that it’s hard to choose which one I like more because of how much detail and authenticity each one provides. 

If you’re just getting into these brands, I highly recommend doing your own research about the rich history and different models each one provides so that you can more accurately compare how each one fits—or doesn’t fit—you.

Ultimately, these two brands are objective masterpieces. Treasures of our time that have singlehandedly reshaped the watch industry and have influenced the very culture of our society in more ways than we recognize.

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