Author: Charlotte H

In the great wide world of watchmaking, Switzerland is considered the country that takes the crown – and rightly so. They are well-known for their high levels of craftsmanship, luxury designs, and for setting standards in accuracy thanks to institutions like COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). However, across the ocean lies another powerhouse in the world of horology: Japan. 

Slowly but surely, this country has gained a reputation for producing watches that match Switzerland in their cutting-edge technology and beautiful design while maintaining a remarkable level of affordability. 

Japanese watch brands like Seiko, Citizen, Casio, and Orient have become some of just a few household names to come out of the nation, carving out a unique niche that caters to both everyday wear and high-end collectors. 

Whether it’s Grand Seiko’s pioneering Spring Drive movement, Citizen’s eco-friendly Eco-Drive technology, or Casio’s rugged G-Shock series for outdoor adventurers, Japanese brands are proving that exceptional quality and functionality are available from somewhere other than the watchmaking capital of the world. Have I piqued the interest of your wrists? Keep reading to discover the 15 best Japanese watch brands…

About Japanese Watches 

Although it feels like Japanese watchmaking is still a fairly youthful entry into the horology world, it actually has a more storied history than you might think. It all started in 1913 when Seiko, a brand that still leads the way in Japanese watchmaking to this day, introduced the country’s first-ever wristwatch. The model was named the Laurel. 

At this point in time, pocket watches were still the most popular form of timekeeping while on the move. In fact, there was a real shortage of wristwatches in Japan altogether, with the rare few examples being imported from other countries. 

Then arrived Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko. He was driven by a desire to always be ‘one step ahead’ and embarked on the task of creating Japan’s first-ever wristwatch. That was how the Laurel was born, a perfectly round watch – copying the shape of a pocket watch – with a crisp white dial and beautiful navy and red numerals. 

It really wasn’t until the 1960s, however, marked by the famous “Quartz Revolution”, that Japanese watchmakers truly began to make waves in the market. Brands left, right, and center introduced high-precision and amazingly affordable quartz watches. 

The first was the Seiko Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch. Brands like Citizen and Casio shortly followed suit, leveraging quartz technology to create accurate, low-cost timepieces. They certainly gave Switzerland a run for their money, as many mechanical watchmakers began to lose profit and, in some cases, closed completely. 

Today, Japanese watchmaking continues to thrive, and with a steady balance of both quartz and mechanical watches being offered on all sides of the world, the industry continues to prove that sometimes, a bit of healthy competition can drive innovation and elevate standards.

15 Best Japanese Watchmakers

As you’ve probably guessed from the title of this blog, Japan is home to many watch brands. It’s clear watch collectors have their favorites – including myself – but they’re all different, offering their own flair and level of expertise to the world of horology. Below, we introduce some of the most renowned and influential Japanese watchmakers that we believe have truly shaped the industry for the better.

Grand Seiko

We’re starting off well because Grand Seiko might just be my favorite Japanese watchmaker of all time. Founded in 1960 as the luxury arm of Seiko (more on that powerhouse shortly), Grand Seiko quickly established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. The company was created to produce the world’s “perfect” watch, one that had unparalleled levels of accuracy and a design that was both beautiful and functional. 

I can confidently say that Grand Seiko has achieved its mission. Models like the Grand Seiko Spring Drive are an example of their eye-opening technical prowess. It’s a watch that combines the best of mechanical and quartz technologies, using the mainspring of a mechanical movement with the regulation of a quartz crystal. 

The combination achieves almost near-perfect timekeeping. Their dedication to dial craftsmanship is also worth a mention, with Grand Seiko’s dials being known as some of the most intricate and beautiful in the watchmaking world. I urge you to look at their collections more closely to see what I mean.

Seiko

Almost like the baby brother of Grand Seiko, and yet a company that has a longer history, Seiko was founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori. As we mentioned earlier, Seiko was the inventor of Japan’s first ever wristwatch as well as the world’s first quartz wristwatch, so already, we know they’re coming from a place of ingenious innovation. 

The Seiko Astron, the first quartz wristwatch, remains a popular model in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio but now features solar-powered GPS technology so you can adjust your watch to whatever time zone you’re in with a simple click of a button. 

Another one of Seiko’s popular collections is its Prospex line. Those looking for rugged, high-performance, and affordable dive watches really ought to check this collection out. 

These are super durable watches with legible Lumibrite dials, adventurous water-resistant cases, and in-house automatic winding movements. I will always love the Seiko Prospex ‘Save the Ocean’ collection, which helps raise proceeds for charities working to protect our oceans. 

Casio

Possibly one of the best-known Japanese watch brands out there, Casio was founded in 1946 by Kazuo Kashio. He began by engineering calculators before eventually venturing into watchmaking in 1974. Since then, Casio has become something of an icon in the watch industry, predominantly launching highly robust and affordable digital watches. 

For me, the Casio G-Shock line is the company’s most significant contribution to horology. Launched in 1983, the G-Shock watch was born from Casio engineer Kikuo Ibe’s mission to create “a watch that never breaks”. 

Ever since, G-Shock has become synonymous with durability and shock resistance, attracting the adventurous wrists of outdoor explorers, athletes, and military personnel. They often feature digital displays with backlighting and robust water-resistant cases. 

Citizen

Another well-known Japanese watchmaker is Citizen. Founded in 1918, this brand is best known for the introduction of its Eco-Drive technology in 1976. In fact, it seems the rest of their history gets overshadowed because of how revolutionary this technology is. But it is a game-changer. 

Eco-Drive watches from Citizen are powered entirely by light, including the sun and artificial sources like your bedside table lamp. The battery is rechargeable, which means you never have to take your Citizen watch to your local jewelers for a replacement. 

The Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster series is a favorite for its durability and advanced diving features. It’s a watch I often recommend to those new to watch collecting and looking for something affordable and perfect for an action-worthy everyday timepiece. 

Another Citizen watch I have to mention, purely because I’m a proud owner of one, is the Tsuyosa. This is a standout collection offering automatic winding movements and strikingly colorful dials at insanely affordable prices.

Orient

Another Japanese watch brand I like is Orient. Founded in 1950, this watchmaker is another to prove that quality and craftsmanship can be accessible to everyone. They are best known for their dedication to mechanical watchmaking, consistently delivering stylish and reliable automatic and manual winding watches. 

For me, the Orient Bambino is a beauty. I was lucky enough to have recently reviewed one of the same, and I was pleasantly surprised by the high levels of craftsmanship found in a watch priced under $200. 

The Orient Bambino makes my wish list with vintage-inspired designs, super slim cases, and reliable movements. I should also mention the Orient AR00 Semi Skeleton, another beautiful dress watch with a unique small seconds overlapping a round skeletonized aperture revealing the movement below. A design like this isn’t a common sight in a watch brand working in this price range.

Lorus

If you prefer your watches with more of a modern, minimalistic look, then Lorus might be worth your time. It’s not a Japanese watch brand known by many, but they’ve been making waves in the horology world since its founding in 1982. 

As part of the Seiko family, you can feel confident knowing these watches are not only stylish but reliable and budget-friendly, using a mix of quartz and solar-powered in-house movements to fuel their dials. 

If it were me, I would head first to the Lorus Sport collection. Here, you’ll find a range of masculine sports watches with aggressive case styles, full metal bracelets, and chronograph movements. Alternatively, the Lorus Classic line opts for sleek lines and clean dials for those wanting something with a bit more elegance to it. Lorus is another perfect example of how you don’t need to spend a fortune to enjoy a high-quality piece.

Credor 

Credor is something of a hidden gem in the world of luxury watches. This is another one of Seiko’s children, but it focuses largely on high-end watch materials and movements. These watches represent some of the highest levels of artistry and engineering in Japanese watchmaking (alongside Grand Seiko), with every hand-finished dial and complex mechanical movement proving a commitment to excellence. 

One of Credor’s best-known collections is the Credor Eichi. It is celebrated for its minimalistic aesthetics, exceptional movement accuracy, and use of premium materials, including platinum and 18-carat gold. Another model worth mentioning is the Credor Spring Drive, which features the Japanese brand’s famous Spring Drive movement, which merges both mechanical and quartz technology for insane levels of accuracy.

Kuoe Kyoto

Compared to those mentioned previously, Kuoe Kyoto is a young Japanese watchmaker, having only left the womb in 2000. And yet, despite being a new contender to the luxury watch world, they’ve already distinguished themselves worldwide for their commitment to blending traditional Japanese craftsmanship with the needs of a modern audience. 

To put it into perspective, most of Kuoe Kyoto’s watches use Japanese stainless steel and enamel work that has been handmade in Japan. One of my personal favorite collections is the Kyoto Collection, which features delicate dial patterns that evoke traditional Japanese motifs.

Hajime Asaoka

It’s not often I come across a watch brand I’ve never heard of, but when it came to researching this article, the name Hajime Asaoka kept cropping up. And so, of course, I had to learn more. Established in 2005, it seems this watch brand – although not widely known – has mastered the art of handcrafted timepieces. 

Each model is thoughtfully designed by master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, who has a clear appreciation for the balance of aesthetics and mechanical engineering. He cleverly combines traditional techniques with modern design to launch models like the Tsunami and Tourbillon Pura.

Kurono Tokyo

Another watch brand I’m not overly familiar with, although I have heard their name mentioned before, is Kurono Tokyo. After looking into the brand a little more deeply, I feel that their philosophy revolves around extremely well-made watches with top-notch construction and attention to detail but at an accessible price. Their collections are exactly that: accessible but exceptionally constructed, offering masterful complications and, in some cases, rare Urushi dials.

Minase

A Japanese watchmaker with a penchant for modern aesthetics blended with Japanese precision is Minase. Founded in 2005 in the heart of Japan’s watchmaking district, the company has become best known for its bold geometric stylings and titanium cases, which are lightweight and incredibly durable. 

Models like the Horizon and Windows are two of my favorites since they boast unique rectangular cases with captivating dial construction that’s both sleek and mesmerizing. The Uruga is another popular reference with a sporty five-row link bracelet and unusual claw-like tongs on the bezel.

Mirco

It’s not easy to make timepieces stand out in today’s market since there are so many watch brands. But somehow, Mirco managed to do it, creating a range of watches that can only be Mirco. By placing their logo untraditionally at the 6 o’clock spot and leaving the 12 o’clock area completely bare, it’s not difficult to spot one of their designs in a crowd. 

It’s still a new brand, having been founded in 2015, but they’ve already created some standout models, including the Type-02, which is undeniably retro, and the Type-03, a colorful diver’s watch.

Naoya Hida & Co.

A Japanese watch brand that has really surprised me, opting for the traditional fonts, colors, and stylings of Swiss-made timepieces, is Naoya Hida & Co. It makes perfect sense, though; since their founding in 2013, they have dedicated their history to traditional techniques, combining them with intricate dials and finely crafted cases. 

The NH Type 5A is an absolutely beautiful timepiece, marking the brand’s first dress watch with a rectangular case. It’s compactly sized with three-dimensional sapphire crystal and beautiful concave dolphin hands. It’s a must-have for those with a love of Japanese-made dress watches.

Future Funk

I love a watch brand that does things differently, and Japanese watchmaker Future Funk says it all in the name. They boast an exciting range of retro-inspired timepieces that bring the groovy vibes of the 1970s into the modern day. The unusual dial layouts and disco-esque cases capture the essence of the era’s bold fashion and funky beats. 

They are most definitely designed for those of us who love both nostalgia and unconventional watch design. The Future Funk Roller takes the number one spot for me, inspired by the space-age design of 1970s digital clocks with numbers that rotate vertically.

Kikuchi Nakagawa

Last but certainly not least, we have Kikuchi Nakagawa, a fairly unknown microbrand founded by duo Kikuchi and Nakagawa. The pair wanted to bring together the beauty of traditional Japanese aesthetics with the precision of Swiss watchmaking, and in doing so, they created a selection of timeless dress watches. 

These watches cater to connoisseurs who appreciate the finer things in life and those of you who value quality, artistry, and a touch of understated luxury. 

As it stands, Kikuchi Nakagawa only has two collections in their portfolio: Murakumo and Ichimonji. Both are fairly simple in their execution but surprise with handcrafted dials and cases and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movements (a movement maker known for supplying some of the world’s most prestigious watchmakers).

Conclusion

It’s clear there’s no shortage of incredible Japanese watch brands to choose from. Whether you’re after a durable diver’s watch, a shockproof digital timepiece for hiking, a classy dress watch, or something wholly unique and different, Japan has got you covered. 

With such a variety of designs and innovations, you’re bound to find the perfect watch to suit your style and needs. While Switzerland may officially be home to some of the biggest watchmakers in the world, I think Japanese watch brands give them a good run for their money.

The world of watches can be a confusing place. There’s a whole bunch of terminology that can be puzzling even to the most experienced watch collector, let alone those of us completely new to timepieces. From tourbillons to tachymeters, perpetual calendars to power reserves and bezels to balance bridges, know that it’s okay to feel overwhelmed by all these different terms. 

I guarantee all of us, at some point in our watch collecting journey, have had to Google what these words mean. And I’d bet my money that one of the most frequently asked questions is: “what is a chronometer?”

Think of a chronometer watch as an overachiever, the clever one in school. It’s a watch that has passed a super strict set of accuracy tests, typically by an official body known as COSC in Switzerland (although there are other bodies we’ll get to shortly). 

The watch has basically been to a boot camp to ensure it is super precise; the movement is tested in different positions and temperatures to ensure it keeps near-perfect time. People choose chronometer watches when they want undeniable reliability, whether that’s an essential lifestyle requirement or just a cool thing to boast about with their friends.

History of Chronometers

Like most inventions, the chronometer was created out of need. During the 18th century, a serious issue faced by sailors traveling out at sea was their inability to accurately determine their longitude, making navigation tricky and often dangerous. 

Enter John Harrison, a British clockmaker who, in 1735, created the first marine chronometer. His invention was a game changer, allowing sea-dwellers to navigate the ocean with incredible levels of accuracy. It was kind of like giving sailors a GPS long before satellites were even a thing. 

Over the years, chronometers got smaller and more precise, eventually moving from ship decks to wrists. Chronometer watches became popular during the early 20th century as the demand for accurate timekeeping skyrocketed. It was here when organizations like COSC were founded, created with the aim of certifying chronometer watches under a strict set of standards. Now, only the most precise timepieces earn the title “chronometer”.

Now, with GPS systems aboard, we don’t need chronometers to set sail, but the precision of a chronometer wristwatch is still necessary and impressive. They have become symbols of reliability and craftsmanship, with typically only the finest watchmakers in the world able to create chronometer-certified watches.

Chronometer Certification Standards

There are various chronometer certifications, each with its own testing method. So, if you’re looking for a chronometer watch for yourself, it’s good to know which certification your watch has passed. Even some watch brands, known for crafting their own in-house movements, have developed their own chronometer certifications to show their dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Let’s look at some of the best-known chronometer certifications and what is involved in each…

COSC Chronometer

The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, abbreviated to COSC, is the most common standard of chronometer certification. The Swiss establishment was the first institution to certify watches as chronometers, demanding the best in accuracy and craftsmanship. Following its founding in 1973, it still demands a very specific set of specifications from a watch to earn its prestigious certification. Those that do pass receive a coveted COSC certificate. 

Watches that are assessed under COSC undergo a series of tests over 15 days. These assess a movement’s precision under different conditions, including temperature variations (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C) and positional changes (like crown up, down, and horizontal). The watch must maintain a daily rate within a tight range of -4 to +6 seconds to pass.

METAS Chronometer

METAS Chronometer certification is another respected standard, but one set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) in collaboration with Omega. It goes beyond traditional chronometer testing to ensure even higher levels of precision and durability. To achieve this certification, a watch must pass COSC certification before undergoing additional tests conducted by METAS.

These tests include exposure to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, different temperatures, and even different water pressure levels to verify its robustness. Additionally, the watch’s accuracy is assessed in six different positions and at two different power levels—fully wound and with a 33% reserve. METAS-certified chronometers guarantee a daily precision of 0 to +5 seconds.

Superlative Chronometer

Superlative Chronometer certification is exclusively awarded by Rolex to its own timepieces. Like METAS, it goes beyond the standard of COSC chronometer testing, ensuring that every movement meets Rolex’s own stringent standard. Again, every movement must first pass COSC certification before then being handled by Rolex’s professional watchmakers, who take the fully assembled watch – not just movement – in-house for further testing.

These tests include placing the watch in multiple positions and in varying conditions such as freezing, hot and magnetic environments. They also test for waterproofness, power reserve, and automatic winding proficiency. To receive Superlative Chronometer certification, the watch must maintain a daily rate of -2 to +2 seconds, making Rolex Superlative Chronometers some of the most accurate in the world.

Grand Seiko Special Standard

As its name suggests, the Grand Seiko Special Standard is a certification exclusive to Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko. Hoping to prove Japanese watchmaking can be just as precise and reliable as Swiss, the brand has created their own certification even stricter than COSC. 

To receive the Grand Seiko Special Standard certification, a movement must undergo rigorous testing for 17 days across six different positions and at three temperature settings. The movements are also tested in both horizontal and vertical orientations. The daily deviation allowed is between -3 to +5 seconds, exceeding the standards set by COSC.

German Chronometer Standard

The German Chronometer Standard is a certification similar to Switzerland’s COSC but one that is dedicated to testing the accuracy of German-made watches like those from Glashutte Original. The standard is found under certification DIN 8319, with specifications equivalent to those of the ISO 3159. 

It values a series of tests over 15 days, with the movement tested in five positions and at two different temperatures. Like COSC, it must also maintain a daily rate of accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds. However, unlike its Swiss counterpart, the German Chronometer Standard involves testing the fully cased watch, not just the movement.

Patek Philippe Seal

Patek Philippe also has its own chronometer certification unique to them. In 2009, they established a seal that represents the rigorous standards of their movement manufacture, once again going above and beyond the standards set out by COSC. 

To earn the Patek Philippe Seal, a watch must maintain a daily accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds in several positions and at different temperatures. Additionally, the watch’s durability, finishing, and overall craftsmanship are examined, so you’re guaranteed some of the finest levels of watchmaking in the world.

Qualité Fleurier Standard

The Qualité Fleurier Standard, also sometimes known as the FQF Quality seal, is a certification process for mechanical watches made entirely in Switzerland. This means every part of the watch must be 100% Swiss-made. 

Then, the movement must pass the tests of the COSC, followed by the FQF’s additional tests, including accuracy checks in different positions and temperatures, ensuring it maintains a daily deviation of -0 to +5 seconds.

Chronometers vs Chronographs

Chronometer and chronograph are two watch terms that are often confused with each other – understandably so since both begin with “chrono”. But in fact, chronometers and chronographs are totally different. 

As we now know, a chronometer is all about precision; it’s a watch that has been officially certified to keep time super accurate, passing rigorous tests. A chronograph, however, is a watch built with a stopwatch function, allowing you to measure elapsed time with separate sub-dials.

Fun fact: you can have a chronometer chronograph, a watch awarded chronometer certification equipped with a handy stopwatch complication.

Popular Chronometer Watches on Exquisite Timepieces

If you’re into precision timepieces, chronometers are where it’s at. At Exquisite Timepieces, we have a number of exceptional chronometer watches for you to enjoy. Here are some of the most popular, as rated by our customers:

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Known as one of Omega’s Master Chronometer watches, a family of timepieces certified by METAS, this Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm promises incredible levels of accuracy and reliability. The movement, with its co-axial escapement, is highly anti-magnetic and promises a healthy power reserve of 60 hours. 

It’s also a beautiful watch externally, featuring a 39mm stainless steel case with a scratch-proof fluted bezel and 100 meter water resistance. The dial is the star of the show for me, though, colored in blue with an unusual star-shaped dome finish set with Super-LumiNova infilled hands and indexes.

Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial (ref.  FC-303S3NH26B) 

Possibly one of the most affordable manufacturers of chronometer watches, Frederique Constant has truly reached their goal of making luxury watchmaking accessible to everyone. For less than $2,500, they offer a COSC-certified full-metal sports watch with their Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC Silver Dial model, powered by the Caliber FC-303 with a 38-hour power reserve. 

It, too, has a 39mm stainless steel case, but one with a sporty, integrated architecture that flows into the brushed and polished H-link bracelet. The dial is crisp white and uniquely embossed with a globe motif across the center.

Grand Seiko SLGH021

Grand Seiko has a number of impressive in-house movements worth mentioning, but their Caliber 9SA5, found inside the Grand Seiko SLGH021 Limited Edition, is one of their Grand Seiko Special Standard movements. With a daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a power reserve of 80 hours, and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, it becomes one of the most impressive chronometer movements on the market. 

The watch is also absolutely breathtaking, featuring an intricately detailed, mosaic-like mint green dial inspired by the colors of the Genbi Valley landscape and a 40mm wide Ever-Brilliant steel case polished using the brand’s famous Zaratsu technique.

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (ref. 1-58-01-02-05-30)

Offering a more traditional aesthetic, one that harks back to some of the world’s first chronometers, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer watch is powered by the in-house Caliber 58-01, a manual winding movement with a 44-hour power reserve and chronometer certification. 

The movement is housed within a luxurious 18ct rose gold case, measuring to 42mm wide and just 12.6mm tall, strapped to the wrist by a dark brown alligator leather strap. The dial is silver-grainé and decorated with blued hands, a black railroad chapter ring, an oversized date window and timeless Roman numerals.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante (ref. PFC905-1020001-100182)

Finally, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is an exceptional chronometer watch with an opulent integrated case and bracelet, guilloche dial, and GMT complication. The soft lines of the case are engineered from stainless steel, while the bezel, with its detailed knurled finish, is machined from 950 platinum. 

It sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 10.7mm thick, secured by a three-row link bracelet with brushed and polished finishing. The blue grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dial presents two skeletonised hands for the hours and minutes and a rose gold hand for the GMT, all powered by the chronometer certified Caliber PF051.

Conclusion

We hope you now have a solid understanding of what a chronometer watch is and why these timepieces are so highly coveted. If precision and accuracy aren’t high on your list of priorities, a chronometer might be a little wasted on you. 

However, if you value precision and reliability, especially if you have a job or lifestyle that requires high levels of timekeeping accuracy, then a chronometer watch would be a worthy investment. Or maybe you’re just like me, and you simply appreciate the intricate technology that goes on inside these watches. If so, a chronometer watch will no doubt enhance your daily life too.