Category: Grand Seiko

The Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” watch has been around for a few years, since 2021, to be more exact. But if it just so happens to have slipped past you while scouring the market for an elegant dress watch or a Grand Seiko timepiece, then now is your opportunity to explore it in more detail.

Grand Seiko is a brand synonymous with exquisite dial textures. Some are achieved via cutting-edge technology and state-of-the-art machinery, while others are the handiwork of highly skilled Japanese artisans. The world-renowned watchmaker has an aptitude for capturing the unique interplay between darkness and light that we seldom get to enjoy in other watches within the same price bracket.

Sure, these timepieces are not the most affordable on the market. But they sit under a relatively accessible umbrella for most serious watch aficionados. They are, after all, a level up from Seiko, both companies of which are owned by Seiko Watch Corporation. Those who share an enthusiasm for this brand, however, will agree that Grand Seiko watches sit in a caliber of their own. They are, in more than one sense, “next level”. 

Many of Grand Seiko’s timepieces are inspired by Shinshu’s ephemeral beauty and its majestic snow-dusted Hataka mountains, which reach high into skies of the bluest blue, like the Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari.” The picturesque landscape serves as a backdrop to Grand Seiko’s design studios, especially in the winter—a season with a beauty of its own.

For example, if you’ve ever perused Grand Seiko’s Four Seasons collection, you’ll have gained some perspective on the brand’s range of dial effects. Some are engraved to resemble the three-dimensional profile of a flower petal. Others feature subtle indentations that mimic the look of moving foliage in the breeze. Faint ripples and delicate wave effects are other popular techniques that beautifully capture the natural elements of Japan’s changing seasons.

Recently, Grand Seiko unveiled a new dial technique named Optical Multilayer Coating. This dial-coloring method achieves a captivating display via physical vapor deposition (PVD). Here, nanoscale films are applied to the dial, layer by layer, enabling light to shift across their surfaces, creating different nuances depending on the angle they are viewed. 

The Grand Seiko SBGY007 is also part of the Four Seasons series. Nicknamed “Omiwatari,” its unique surface effect recalls the frozen waters of Lake Suwa, a place rich in Japanese folklore and held in high regard by religious traditions.

History and Inspiration

At Lake Suwa, cackling ice forms a phenomenon across the surface of the famous waters, where legend has it that gods walked upon. Locals believe that once a year, a god descends to travel across this mysterious pathway to the other side of the lake. The guardian of Suwa, named Takeminakata-no-kami, is believed to have left his sanctuary to meet his wife on the opposite bank, where the god becomes reunited with his love once more. 

Those ever lucky enough to witness the natural wonder occurring across the waters of this picturesque location in Japan will agree that it conjures images of a whimsical fantasia. The hot springs below the lake’s frozen surface create pressure ridges and ice patterns that are quite the spectacle for anyone unfamiliar with the sight.

The Case

The stainless steel case of the Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” watch is beautifully hand-finished. In part, the opulent execution of its graceful architecture lends itself to the brand’s “Zaratsu” polishing technique. The company has been employing this case finish for several years, along with the hairline finish technique. The two are a natural match, complimenting one another effortlessly. Rarely is one seen without the other.

The case measures 38.5mm in diameter and sits at a height of 10.2mm on the wrist. Lug-to-lug, the watch measures 43.7mm and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, a standard for most dress watches. One particularly tasteful touch is its rich satin-brushed case sides. 

A hairline polished bevel also features on the outer edge of the shoulders, complete with a polished bezel that frames the dial perfectly. The watch is topped with a strong sapphire crystal glass front, with anti-glare and scratch-resistant properties. It’s the same glass that is used on the back of the watch, providing a glimpse of the movement as it performs.

The Dial

It comes as no surprise that the main talking point of this Grand Seiko watch is its mesmerizing dial. If there is one model with a dial that we can draw some similarities between, it would be the “Snowflake” SBGA211. That watch came equipped with a date window and power reserve indicator but left enthusiasts wondering what the watch would be like in a more simplistic, pared-back form. 

The answer to that came in the form of the Ref. SBGY007 to an extent. Its dial is absent of any complications, donating more space to the three-hand layout and, of course, enabling the wearer to appreciate that meticulous surface finish. Technically, however, the dials are different. 

The fact that the dial of the “Omiwatari” is void of a date aperture surely divides opinions. Some love the feature, and some feel it serves little purpose in a world where date-tracking technology is within arm’s reach. For me, the decision to remove the date was a well-thought-out one. It looks and feels like a purist timepiece, especially with its supermodel thinness and gracefully gliding seconds hand. 

The collectible does a fine job of bridging the gap between modern and classic. The slim baton hour markers, for example, are elegant and conventional. At the same time, the smoothness of the sweeping hand is the result of a complex high-performance mechanical innovation – the Spring Drive movement (more on that later).

The dial is a pale blue color and the hands are razor-sharp and exquisitely polished. Suffice it to say Grand Seiko cuts no corners in the execution of this dial. The needle-fine points of the hands are beautifully faceted, meaning that only the smallest amount of light can create a huge visual impact (no need for luminous coatings here!). 

The watch is available in a white dial version, too. The reference SBGY013  captures mid-winter tones via the same ripple-effect display, handcrafted by Takumi artisans working at Grand Seiko’s ateliers. For me, however, the ice blue shades of the SBGY007 have the edge over the white. 

The Movement 

The Seiko SBGY007 is powered by the Calibre 9R31 – a unique timekeeping technology named the Spring Drive, which took a total of 28 years to master, not to mention 600 prototypes. To simplify things, this innovation blends an automatic movement with an electric Tri-Synchro Regulator, which replaces the escapement found in a mechanical movement. 

What makes the movement so special is its 300 hand-assembled components and the level of precision required in hand-adjusting these components, which all fall within one-hundredth of a millimeter deviation from the original design.

This mechanical beating heart is meticulously engineered, intricately hand assembled, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours. Any timepiece with an ample power supply like this is considered a “weekend-friendly” watch. You could take it off the wrist on a Friday evening after work and come back to it on a Monday morning to find it has kept the perfect time for you. 

In the design of the Spring Drive movement, the Tri-Synchro Regulator controls the speed at which the mainspring unwinds. Thanks to its quartz aspect, the Spring Drive propels the second hand around the dial in a smooth, effortless, gliding motion, as opposed to operating with a “ticking” motion. Understandably, this further adds to the allure of the watch. Additionally, it promises an accuracy of +/-1 seconds per day.

The Strap Options

The only downside to the Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” watch is the lack of strap options available for its 19mm lug width. The most common lug width for a watch is 20mm, making the 19mm options a little harder to come by. That said, I have seen this timepiece paired with a beautiful grey saffiano and grey Epsom strap, as well as a brown leather band and a grey ostrich strap. All look equally as fetching but achieve a somewhat more casual finish on the wrist.

Still, the classic black leather band it comes fitted on certainly manages to achieve a dressy, timeless aesthetic. The color and alligator effect complement any wardrobe. The black embossed alligator leather band secures to the wrist with a classic stainless steel three-fold clasp with a push-button release mechanism and the engraved Seiko name. 

On the Wrist

As aforementioned, the Grand Seiko SBGY007 measures a comfortable diameter and height, constituting a great option for slender wrists. Its unimposing depth enables it to slide effortlessly under the cuff of a work shirt, pairing well with formal or sophisticated attire. 

The model’s smooth hand-applied case polishing and the ergonomic flow of its slender profile are all great dress watch elements. I can imagine that, despite its compact nature, it still delivers all the desirable wrist presence you’d expect of any Grand Seiko watch. You can enjoy this watch every day of the week or reserve it for dressier occasions at the weekend. Either way, the “Omiwatari” is a companion that is easy-going, flexible, and versatile. 

Anyone who has spent some time with a Grand Seiko watch will understand what I mean when I say that the full extent of this watch’s tactile, visceral, and palpable beauty is something that you can only fully appreciate upon handling it. When you observe the way that light hits the surface of the case’s contours and how the dial catches pockets of light depending on the angle you tilt it, you can value its beauty from a holistic point of view. 

Price and Availability 

This is not a limited edition Grand Seiko watch, but it certainly feels like a “rare gem”. For $8,300, you get a high-end case finish, an in-house movement, and an artisan dial inspired by the Japanese brand’s esteemed heritage. For me, the watch is very fairly priced and carries a reputable name that people instantly recognize for its quality, craftsmanship, and authenticity. 

Wrapping Up

The Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” is a divine union of nature and mythology. But if none of those things resonate with you, it’s still a beautiful, classic dress watch that is abundant in exquisite dial and case finishes.

Like so many of Grand Seiko’s premium watch designs, the “Omiwatari” leverages environmental muses in an unusual way. These timepieces look like no other design on the market, and because of their price point, they offer exceptional value for money.

Snowflake, Skyflake, Mistflake… It’s no coincidence that Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko has made snow-inspired, finely textured dials one of their many fortes. Their undeniably talented designers and watchmakers take inspiration from the natural beauty surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi, Japan. 

Located in the Iwate Prefecture, the region experiences heavy snowfall during the winter, which provides a serene, snowy landscape that is visible from the factory windows. As I’m sure you can imagine, being surrounded by such a picturesque sight will deeply influence the company’s designers, inspiring them to replicate the delicate, textured beauty of frozen landscapes on their watch dials. 

And so, the Grand Seiko “Snowflake”, “Skyflake”, and “Mistflake” watches have come to be. The former is arguably one of the most famous, becoming one of the brand’s best-selling models. But today, it’s actually the Grand Seiko SBGE285 “Mistflake” I’m reviewing. Until recently, it’s a watch I’ve never had the pleasure of trying out, but let me tell you, I’m kicking myself for not seeking it out sooner.

The History of the Grand Seiko SBGE285 

The launch of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch was rather pivotal for the Japanese watchmaker for several reasons. The novelty was first introduced at Watches & Wonders 2022 alongside an almost identical model, the SBGE283, with a black textured dial. These two designs turned the principles of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection on its head, bringing a sense of sports elegance to the otherwise simple, understated dress watch family. 

Ultimately, Grand Seiko combined the curved profiles, multi-faceted dial hardware, ergonomic bracelets, and in-house movements of the original Evolution 9 with less discreet GMT bezels, large arrow-shaped GMT hands, a power reserve indicator, and, most importantly, a textured dial. To me, it made perfect sense for Grand Seiko to combine two contrasting aesthetics into one powerful yet dressy tool watch. It embodied a timepiece with more aggressive aesthetics yet still one undeniably Grand Seiko.

A Compact Titanium Case

Normally, when someone says “sports watch,” I run away with my wrists behind my back. Why? Sports watches are typically large, and as someone with five-and-a-half-inch wrists, they’re not usually suited to my frame. That said, as soon as I strapped on the Grand Seiko SBGE285, I immediately realized that I needed to stop judging all sports watches based on the genre they’re placed in. 

It’s safe to say the SBGE285 has benefited from the Evolution 9 treatment. Wearability is absolutely fantastic, sitting at 41mm wide, just below 14mm tall, and with a length of 47.5mm. These dimensions might sound large, but they are significantly more wearable compared to some of Grand Seiko’s other sports watches (like the 44.5mm wide and 16.8mm tall SBGC275). 

The slim bezel and downward-turned lugs help keep the watch nice and low on the wrist. Sure, this is definitely a sports watch, but it’s a sports watch with dress watch dimensions. In my opinion, it’s the best of both worlds. 

Another more obvious point is that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 is engineered from titanium, a material renowned for its extreme lightness. So not only does the sports watch wear well due to its dimensions, but it also feels ghostly on the wrist due to its weight. 

Bear in mind that this is a full metal watch with a matching metal bracelet, and it only weighs 122 grams. To put it into perspective, a watch of the same size made from stainless steel weighs almost 200 grams. 

The high-intensity titanium, otherwise known as grade 5 titanium, is also finished to an insanely high standard. If you’re someone familiar with Grand Seiko, you’ll know this is nothing new. But if you’re someone new to the GS family, you are in for a treat. Grand Seiko are professionals when it comes to case finishing, and the techniques used on SBGE285 are proof of that. 

There are sharp facets to separate the case sides and middle, as well as a beautifully curved case top that flows downwards with the lugs. The sides are also brushed, adding further contrast to the polished bevels running down the sides of the case. 

As for the bezel, the same combination of finishes is utilized. The top is brushed and decorated with a black-colored 24-hour scale, while the sides are beautifully polished. The bezel is stepped and fixed and works alongside the black central GMT hand on the dial to aid and enable the second time zone functionality. The SBGE285 is a sports watch, so it promises a 100-meter water resistance, helped by the screw-down crown positioned at 3 o’clock. 

The way the crown is integrated here into the side of the case is very impressive. Rather than having separate crown guards, Grand Seiko has extended the case out to create a seamless way to protect the crown. We’re also warranted box-shaped sapphire crystal glass on top with anti-reflective treatment on the underside for easy legibility of the dial, as well as sapphire crystal glass for the case back.

A Mist-Inspired Dial

As we’ve come to know from any Grand Seiko “Flake” watch, the dial is where much of the Japanese watchmaker’s design prowess shines. While the GS Snowflake has a more obvious grained finish, the Grand Seiko “Mistflake” SBGE285 opts for a subtle but still striking textured dial. Once again, it’s a finely executed display inspired by nature, this time echoing the frosty mist that surrounds the mountains of Nagano, the home of Spring Drive, in winter. 

In images, the watch appears to have a dark, almost anthracite dial color, but in person, it’s a lot lighter than I expected. The off-white, light gray hue is actually better, in my opinion. It almost perfectly matches the shade of the high-intensity titanium utilized on the bracelet and case, creating this almost seamless, monochromatic profile. 

The dial is accentuated by faceted and applied indices and dauphine-style hands for the hours, minutes, and seconds. All of the hardware incorporates slithers of lume, appearing white in the daylight but green in the dark. 

Grand Seiko isn’t normally talked about for its use of lume, but in the case of the Grand Seiko SBGE285, I was pleasantly surprised. The lume glows brighter than I anticipated, and I particularly like the fact that while the main hardware glows green, the blackened, arrow-tipped GMT hand glows blue.

Adding to the SBGE285’s sporty aesthetic is the power reserve indicator located between the 7 and 8 o’clock marker. This is a controversial feature for many Grand Seiko aficionados, and I’ll be honest: it’s a complication I’ve never found necessary. 

That said, it does suit the sporty personality of the Grand Seiko “Mistflake” better than some of the other models I’ve witnessed it on. Like the Grand Seiko logo at 12 and the “Spring Drive GMT” lettering at 6 o’clock, the power reserve indicator is printed directly onto the surface of the dial rather than being recessed. There’s also a framed date window taking up position at 3 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

For me, the dial is the strongest argument for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch, but I know for many, it’s going to be the Spring Drive movement housed inside. Understandably so, many consider Grand Seiko’s line-up of Spring Drive movements to be some of the most important technological advancements in watch movement history. 

These innovative mechanisms use elements of both mechanical watchmaking and modern electronic technology. They combine a traditional mainspring to store energy with an electronic regulator to control the release of energy for high levels of precision.

The Caliber 9R66 used here has become one of Grand Seiko’s most used Spring Drive calibers since its debut in 2006. It comes with a healthy 72-hour power reserve and a superior precision of -/+ 1 second per day or -/+ 15 seconds a month. It also provides a super satisfying sweeping seconds hand and an hour hand that can be adjusted independently from the rest of the hardware to make it all the easier to adjust while traveling. 

Finally, the movement is finished to a nice standard. It’s simple but attractive, offering engraved waves across the bridges and rotor, polished screw heads, and a handsome blue engraving of the Grand Seiko logo on the oscillating weight.

A Full Titanium Bracelet

Like the case, the strap on the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch is machined entirely from high-intensity titanium. The bracelet is set between 22mm lugs that are drilled and offers a three-link construction. The end links are more prominent than I expected and there’s no tapering on the bracelet which makes it seem rather wide and a little disproportionate to the case. 

I would prefer to see the bracelet on a watch like this to offer a little bit of tapering to elevate the overall sophistication of the piece. Plus, some opportunity for micro adjustment on the clasp wouldn’t go amiss, but overall, it is a comfortable design finished to a high standard and there are two half links accompanied with every model for aiding a precise fit. The entirety of the bracelet’s architecture is brushed and completed by a GS-engraved logo on the folding buckle.

On-Wrist Experience

After enjoying the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285 watch on my wrist for these past few days, I feel confident in saying this is one of Grand Seiko’s most wearable sports watches. If you’re like me, and you have fairly small wrists, and you typically shy away from sports watches in general, this is one to take a risk on. 

Despite its 41mm size, 47.4mm lug-to-lug, and 13.9mm thickness, it wears incredibly well on the wrist. It has a demanding aesthetic, thanks to the busy dial and 24-hour bezel, but it’s still dressy in its appearance. I’d say it would best suit wrist sizes between 6.75 inches and 7.5 inches, although I’d still recommend it to anyone with smaller and larger arms, too. 

The dial is breathtaking, in my opinion. The subtly textured finish and off-white color is beautiful and the way it blends together with the darkened hue of the grade 5 titanium case and bracelet is stunning. I’ll also never get bored of the sweeping seconds hand from the Spring Drive movement; it’s just so satisfying and knowing the levels of accuracy you get with technology like this makes wearing the watch all the more enjoyable.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGE285 retails for $8,400 brand new and is available to order from your local authorized dealer including Exquisite Timepieces. It can also be found on the second-hand market for around $5,500. This is a non-limited edition piece, but as to how long it’ll stay in stock is unknown.

Conclusion

There’s very little bad to say about the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Mistflake” SBGE285. Sure, the price is a little elevated compared to some of Grand Seiko’s other GMT offerings, but when you consider the full titanium construction and Spring Drive movement, you’re certainly getting plenty of bang for your buck. I will say the bracelet does have some room for improvement, but that could just be me being picky since I’m a lover of a more slender, tapered bracelet design.

Other than that, the SBGE285 is the perfect definition of a go-anywhere-do-anything sports watch. Its technical specifications, including its lightweight titanium housing, 100-meter water resistance, and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, mean this watch will survive pretty much any day-to-day activity. Meanwhile, its high contrast finish, compact dimensions, and finely textured dial make it worthy of slipping under a shirt cuff on those formal occasions.

The White Lotus, as I’d like to call the Grand Seiko SBGA211, is the purest everyday watch money can buy. And because it’s also known as the Snowflake, it’s pure on the inside, too – the White Lotus comes from mud, but snow is from white clouds. 

The SBGA211 has a beautiful famous dial and is rich in history, finish material selection, and a mindblowing spring drive movement. In this review, you’ll learn why it’s easily one of the best watches in its price range and why it’s named the Snowflake.

Grand Seiko Snowflake Over The Years

In the autumn of 2005, when the green Shinshu Mountains were transforming into snowy white peaks, Seiko released the SBGA011. 

Fun fact: the watch was never named Snowflake by the Japanese watchmaker, at least, not at first. We give all the credit to the excited community of watch lovers and SBGA011 cult followers, for which the company was also grateful. 

The flagship model then carried the Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and Grand Seiko at 6 o’clock. I’ll digress to talk about the origins of this timepiece. 

The design team (like they did when they released the Spring Drive movement) wanted the dial to enshrine the surroundings of its birthplace. So the artisans at the Shishu Watch Dial Studio drew inspiration from the pure white mountain view that outlined their workstation for almost half the year. 

They wanted the dial pure white, like winter’s snow covering the Hida Mountains. Also, a rough texture to imitate the uneven edges of the mountain range. The challenge: using paint would either drown the rough texture or render it dull if it accommodates it. 

So they decided to create the dial using silver! Next, the team dug into the archives and copied the technology on the dial of a ’70s Grand Seiko watch. Five years after the grand entry of the Spring Drive, SBGA011 became available to the public and was officially named Snowflake. It was also reintroduced in 2017 when Grand Seiko became a separate brand from Seiko with one logo and the current reference SBGA211.

The Marvel Engineering of Grand Seiko SBGA211

Let’s undress this titanium dress watch that has amassed a cult following and rightful haters. 

Super Lightweight & Mirror-Polish Case

The most glaring attribute here is the silver high-intensity titanium case. It’s practically indestructible, lightweight, and not uncommon for Grand Seiko to provide this material on a “budget.”

With its 41mm diameter and 12.55mm thick case, you get the face of a dress watch and the fullness of a sports timepiece. I love the slim case profile. However, folks with smaller wrists should pay attention to its 49mm lug-to-lug distance. 

The Snowflake’s case, with its mirror polish or Zaratsu steel polishing, shines under bright light. It’s a stunning work of engineering to achieve this finishing technique on steel, let alone titanium – a metal harder than steel. 

However, the risk of micro-scratches comes with the appeal of a reflective, eye-catching case. In other words, the GS SBGA211 is prone to scratches, but and will take decades before it looks even remotely beat up.

If that’s a deal breaker for you, it’s totally fine to find an alternative. See this 15-year-old, daily used Grand Seiko Spring Drive with Zaratsu polishing for reference.

If it makes you feel better, it’ll last for years, and considering the price, each scratch holds a memory. And to be fair, it’s no different from the scratch tolerance of mirror finish watches from other luxury watchmakers. 

Hokaga Mountains-Themed Snowflake Dial 

As we alluded to in the history of the SBGA211, the dial is inspired by the mountain range outside the Grand Seiko workshop. But it takes 80 increasingly difficult steps to achieve the dial’s snow-white and flaky texture. So I don’t blame the SBGA011 followers for naming it Snowflake. They also ring it in our ears that photos don’t do it justice and that you should check one out in a store if you mean business.  

Again, the dial isn’t painted white but made entirely out of silver. And the steps I mentioned earlier involve adding solutions to this textured silver plating. The brain behind this creation is silver’s reputation as the highest reflective metal and that it could be converted to white without obscuring the “flaky” texture with paint. 

Low Light Capability Without Luminescence

In typical dress watch style, this Japanese engineering machine doesn’t have a luminous material on the dial. But Grand Seiko makes up for what it lacks in lume with high reflection. 

The silver plating, uneven dial surface, and polished indexes make Snowflake shine in low-light environments. In addition, according to GS engineers, the dial is larger than traditional flat dials, which allows it to reflect light from all directions. 

Now couple that with the mirror finish on the indexes, and you’ll be able to read the time in low-light conditions – of course, not in a pitch-black room or underwater. 

Reflective Hands and Indexes

The same artistry that goes into the dial can be said of the Snowflake’s hands and indexes. First, all the indicators are laid by trained hands with acrylic tweezers of the craftsperson’s making. Its stick index design, sword hour, and minute hands all get the ancient Zaratsu polishing present on the case and bracelet. 

But the mirror finish on the hour hands or case isn’t the only alluring feature. It’s also the free-flowing blue wedged seconds hand gliding through the snowy dial on the fuel of the innovative spring drive movement. It feels like a bluebird flying over a vast white expanse when you watch it tick. 

Patent Spring Drive Movement 

Many mechanical purists and watch enthusiasts have called this masterpiece absurd names, like “just another quartz” or “gimmicky.” I beg to differ. 

The Grand Seiko 9R65 is a horological masterpiece that even the Swiss giants are yet to touch. It took Yoshkazu Akahane – the inventor – 28 years to bring the Grand Seiko Spring Drive to life. Who spends almost three decades on a gimmick? 

Currently, the 9R65 is the most standard caliber in Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive lineup. It essentially delivers a mechanical watch but with the accuracy of a quartz or electronic caliber. The 9R65 is accurate to +/- 1 second per day and has a 3-day power reserve. That’s perfection if you ask me.

The power reserve indicator is the little aperture with one hand you see between 7 and 8 o’clock on the dial. My point here is the SBGA211 is not powered by a battery but by a mainspring, like traditional mechanical watches.

However, a rotor connected to this engine generates an electrical charge that activates a quartz oscillator. In layman’s terms, this spark is what allows the spring drive to achieve quartz accuracy without being powered by one.  

Exhibition Case Back

As if the guys at ShinShuWatch Studio and I are on the same brainwave, Grand Seiko shows off this beauty using an exhibition case. The see-through case back displays a few of its thirty purple, red, and gold jewels. Is the spring drive just a fancy quartz movement? I’ll leave that to you. You already know my thoughts. 

Polished Titanium Bracelet 

The heading “polished titanium bracelet” may sound basic to a beginner watch enthusiast. So I’d break down the magnificence of this feat in the Snowflake. The Grand Seiko SBGA titanium bracelet features an astounding Zaratsu mirror and hairline finish.

As I failed to mention earlier, the case of the SBGA211 also features a hairline finish on the lugs. It’s a design finish that resembles a fine paint brush stroke or straightened hair. If achieving this level of sophistication and artistry on a stainless steel watch is difficult.

Seeing it on titanium is pure work of art and hard work. The Zaratsu finish is a feat within the grasp of only world-class watchmakers, which would also come at a steep price for the long hours of craftsmanship. 

End Links and Clasp

Grand Seiko has a 20mm wide bracelet. It’s pin and collar style, so you need to remove links to size them. It stays locked in with the typical three-fold clasp and a push button release. 

Although many appreciate the bracelet’s beauty, they also complain of its lack of micro adjustment. Basically, they couldn’t get a perfect fit, so they either had to wear it too loose or tight.

Another drawback to the bracelet is the protruding end of the clasp. It gives the false sense that it’s a lift-to-release mechanism to an outsider, not a push-back release. 

Who Should Wear it?

I can’t deny that the Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake isn’t for everyone, especially because it’s a “Seiko.” That’s right, many folks still underestimate the Japanese brand, perhaps for its relations with Seiko or just the name. But I’d pick this SBGA211 over a stainless steel Datejust on any given day if I plan to wear and enjoy my timepiece for daily and formal use. Hear me out.

Engineering Fanatic

I love watches with innovative engineering, not just one with a popular brand name and a hefty price tag to follow. This Grand Seiko model is on a different level. 

The GS is also handmade by the most experienced technicians, sports a groundbreaking in-house movement, and a famous but rare overall polishing. And to top it off, I get to gaze at the magnificence of her inner workings in a see-through case back when I turn this beauty over.

If you’re in the category of watch lovers who prefers to impress themselves rather than others, the Snowflake is waiting for you under the mistletoe. 

The Lure of Understated Luxury

Isn’t the shine of a luxury watch nobody knows just different? It’s sitting pretty on your wrist, and nobody’s weighing your worth or trying to mug you. The Grand Seiko SBGA211 isn’t flashy but elegant, inspiring, and alluring. That’s because it draws attention to the curious and sophisticated minds of folks who know their watches.

In other words, it showcases class and wealth without actually attracting a crowd. The type of wristwatch that prompts a conversation among watch enthusiasts about its history and engineering. You’ll adore the Snowflake if you’re a believer in understated luxury. 

Who Shouldn’t Wear the Snowflake?

The most obvious answer is anyone who wants a flashy watch that can turn heads at first glance. Either by attraction to the brand name or bling. 

But know this, the absence of stones and a high-luxury status doesn’t mean that Grand Seiko is nameless. In defense of the Snowflake, it would hold a reasonable resale value if you decide you want a new adventure. 

On the technical side, a few things could be a dealbreaker for some folks in the long run. But in my opinion, these are excusable, in fact unnecessary, parameters to judge the majestic Snowflake. 

The most common deal breakers are that the watch profile is “too light”, and you can’t micro-adjust the bracelet. Each to their own, obviously, but I do have to point out that Grand Seiko dress watches never carry micro adjustment.

Don’t expect to find wings at a sushi place. Secondly, many luxury watch brands are guilty of this, and it’s silly, in all honesty. We’ll never know why they don’t make the micro adjustment a base feature (in addition to quick release). 

Furthermore, you’ll have to send the watch to Seiko if you need replacement links – setting you back for weeks if anything goes wrong. This watch is not for you if you plan to adjust timepieces by yourself. 

Thirdly, the Snowflake is built to be ultralight. It’s one of its major selling points as an all-titanium dress watch. That said, if a lightweight watch isn’t your cup of tea, you’re better off without the SBGA211. But get one if you want a metal that’s five times stronger than stainless steel. 

Pricing The Grand Seiko SBGA211

The SBG211 Snowflake has a reputation as “Grand Seiko’s most wanted”. It officially costs $6,200, but prices vary from who you’re dealing with to the condition of the watch. Do I think the Snowflake is priced reasonably?

Absolutely! With the level of craftsmanship that goes into each piece, a Swiss brand would charge almost double the price. That alone makes it a fair price. Aside from whether it’s worth the price or not, the market loves it. And that’s all that matters.

What this means is that it’s in high demand. This is especially true in North America, where Grand Seiko authorized dealers carrying the Snowflake are less rampant than in Japan. 

So don’t be surprised if you see a boutique store selling one for well over $7,000. It requires patience or the assistance of discounts and coupons to buy the Snowflake at the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP). 

Luckily for you, we currently have one new Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake in store at Exquisite Timepieces. It’s only $6,200 with free delivery within the United States. Order now before we also run out of stock. 

Is It A Good Investment Watch?

At the end of it all, luxury watch owners want to know if their watch would make a great investment piece. For most top-tier luxury brands, like Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, the answer is yes. The main reason is their penchant for low production, indirectly creating scarcity and value. 

We can’t say the same with most luxury watchmakers because the demand for that particular model must exceed the supply to make it a great investment piece. So, while Rolex makes about one million watches yearly, the demand far exceeds this production number. 

Grand Seiko produces approximately 31,000 watches a year. Like most luxury watchmakers who don’t publicize output, we don’t know how many Snowflakes ship out yearly, but it’s surely not enough. Plus, the majority of this output stays in Japan. 

So is the Grand Seiko a good investment watch? Yes, it is. You will always find a market for it when the time comes, and depending on the condition, for a reasonable price. 

Remember that the titanium case holds scratches, so unless you’re collecting (never to be worn), expect the potential resale price to drop. But most Snowflake owners buy it to wear for everyday use and find it easy to resell when the time comes for a change. 

Alternatives to The Grand Seiko Snowflake

This review has gone on to emphasize the strong points of the Seiko SBGA211 and how to live with its drawbacks. However, it also comes with shortcomings that you may consider dealbreakers. 

Check out these alternatives, which cover areas where the Snowflake falls short. 

Grand Seiko SBGH205

The GS SBGH205 comes to mind first if you want to stay within the Grand Seiko line. It gives you an equally stunning dial in black (you should see these watches in person to truly understand the hype).

It draws inspiration from the peaks of Mt. Iwate on the horizon of Grand Seiko’s Shizuku-Ishi Watch Studio. The studio is Grand Seiko’s facility for manufacturing mechanical watches. 

Furthermore, the case size is 40.2mm, and with a smaller lug-to-lug, it will fit better on smaller wrists. It’s missing a power reserve indicator, but this probably gives you about a thousand bucks in savings compared to the Snowflake. 

Grand Seiko Japan Seasons Collection

You can’t get enough beautiful dials, no matter the Grand Seiko model you pick. We see GS pay homage to the alps in the Heritage collection (that features the SBGA211). But the Seasons collection features timepieces that embody Summer (Rikka), Spring (Shunbun), Autumn (Shubun), and winter (Taisetu), with special attention to plant-themed designs. 

The collection features four models that represent four seasons. The Spring and Winter model features the Snowflake’s caliber 9R65, while Autumn and Summer carry the Mechanical Hi-beat 36,000 9S65 movement.

Apparently, they’re the same as the Snowflake speaking of material and finish. The only difference is a smaller case size of 40mm and an even more artistic dial. If you’re looking for a smaller dress watch with a beautiful dial like the Snowflake, consider the Japan Seasons collection. 

Rolex DateJust 116200-0084

I love the idea of a European alternative to the SBGA211 for pop culture lovers, socialites, and influencers. What better brand than Rolex and their iconic Rolex Datejust 36mm? It’s a lot smaller but has a similar design with its all-silver look and stick-indexed dial. 

Better yet, the DateJust is all-stainless steel and heavier, weighing 45 grams more than SBGA211. You’ll get the solid feel of the weight of the stainless steel case, iconic Jubilee bracelet, and the signature Rolex zoom lens date. 

Moreover, it costs almost the same as the SBGA211 on the preowned market. The best part is you’ll also find it has a more profitable resale value.

Buy A Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”

Normally, I never finish off my posts blatantly telling you to buy a watch, but I’ll make an exception here. If you’ve given the SBGA211 even an iota of consideration, don’t hesitate to go for it. It’s beautiful, solidly built to age gracefully even with scratches, and carries an unmatched caliber of horological engineering today.

You won’t find any deal breakers than the few I already addressed in this review – a protruding clasp, non-flashy, and an exceptionally lightweight feel. Ultimately, you can resell the Snowflake for a reasonable price if you don’t fall in love with this absolute beauty at first sight. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko does exceedingly well, it’s hypnotizing us with the inimitable beauty of Japan, which it imbues into each of its watch dials.

Every dial that leaves the Shinshu Studio tells a unique story, capturing the essence of time and reflecting the profound dedication of the artisans who create them.

When you gaze upon a Grand Seiko dial, you witness the embodiment of Japanese aesthetics and the pursuit of perfection. The dials are meticulously crafted with a level of precision that reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence. 

The simplicity of design and the clean lines instill a feeling of calmness, inviting you to escape the noise of the world and embrace a moment of quiet reflection. This, dear friends, is what sets Grand Seiko dials on a league of its own.

As we explore the fascinating stories behind these dials, you’ll find that they truly are a visual representation of the Japanese concept of “ma”. Ma means the art of space and interval, where the pauses between elements are just as meaningful as the elements themselves. Let’s go! 

About Grand Seiko Watches

Grand Seiko, aka the high-achieving sibling of  Seiko, was launched in 1960 with the establishment of the Suwa Seikosha factory in Suwa, Nagano Prefecture, Japan. 

The aim was to create excellent timepieces embodying the highest precision, durability, and aesthetic standards.

The first Grand Seiko watch, known by its movement name, the 3180, was unveiled the same year. It featured a highly accurate mechanical movement, precise to within -3 to +5 seconds per day, which was an impressive achievement for that time. 

The design of the watch reflected the simplicity and understated elegance that would become the hallmark of Grand Seiko.

Throughout the 1960s, Grand Seiko watches gained recognition for their exceptional precision and reliability. They were favored by professionals such as doctors, engineers, and businesspeople who required accurate timekeeping. Grand Seiko’s reputation grew not only in Japan but also in international markets.

In the 1970s, Seiko introduced quartz technology to its watchmaking, and Grand Seiko was among the first to incorporate quartz movements.

In 2017, Seiko announced that Grand Seiko would become an independent brand, separate from the main Seiko line. This move aimed to elevate the status and recognition of Grand Seiko as a distinct luxury watch brand.

What Makes Grand Seiko Watches Stand Out?

For over 60 years, Grand Seiko has created meticulously handcrafted watches by skilled artisans who follow the philosophy of “Shinshoku”. This means “the essence of the true watch”. It is an uncommon dedication to outstanding craftsmanship which ensures every watch is of exceptional quality.

Here are some key factors that make Grand Seiko special and contribute to its popularity and desirability:

Superior Build Quality

Grand Seiko watches are made in Japan, where there is a long-standing tradition of exceptional craftsmanship. Japanese artisans are known for their meticulous attention to detail and pursuit of perfection, which is reflected in the quality of Grand Seiko timepieces.

The cases are typically made from stainless steel or precious metals like gold or platinum, ensuring durability and longevity. The crystals are made of scratch-resistant sapphire, which is highly transparent and provides excellent protection to the dial.

The level of finishing in its watches is rarely seen in other timepieces thanks to a traditional Japanese technique called Zaratsu polishing. Derived from Japanese sword polishing, Zaratsu involves the skillful pressing of metal against abrasive surfaces, resulting in distortion-free, perfectly reflective surfaces with sharp edges.

Grand Seiko watches are also built to last for generations, and the brand maintains strict quality control measures to ensure that every watch meets the highest possible standards.

Before the manufactured timepieces leave the factory, stringent accuracy checks, water resistance testing, and aesthetic evaluations are carried out.

It’s no wonder the brand warrants free repair and adjustment service against any defects on their watches for up to five years from the date of purchase.

High-End Movements

Grand Seiko’s movements have always been a show of mechanical ingenuity and complexity.

Just four years after its establishment, the brand joined the competition for the ranking of its movements in the Neuchatel chronometer testing. 

During this trial, a series of the most stringent, thorough accuracy evaluations were conducted. After just about three years, Grand Seiko’s movements leaped from its position in the hundreds to being in the top 10.

The brand’s dedication to precision, craftsmanship, and attention to detail has remained unwavering and is reflected in the creation of its movements.

To make each movement, components such as the mainplate, bridges, gears, and springs are manufactured with great precision. 

The majority of Grand Seiko’s movements are made in-house, ensuring strict quality control. Advanced CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines and high-precision tools are used to fabricate these components, after which skilled watchmakers assemble the movement by hand. 

Once the movement is assembled, it undergoes a series of meticulous tests and adjustments. The watchmakers regulate the movement to ensure accurate timekeeping within the specified tolerances. 

Various tests, including timing tests and power reserve tests, are conducted to verify the movement’s performance and reliability.

The watchmakers then meticulously polish and decorate the movement’s surfaces, including the bridges, plates, and screws, to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the movement.

Grand Seiko movement can be grouped into three broad families, namely, Caliber 9F quartz movements, Caliber 9S mechanical movements (which include automatic and manual winding), and Caliber 9R Spring Drive movements.

Exquisite Dial Designs

Grand Seiko dials are meticulously made by skilled artisans who take great pride in their work. The level of precision and dedication put into creating these dials can evoke emotions of awe and appreciation for the artistry involved.

From the mesmerizing sunburst patterns to the intricate textures, each dial evokes a sense of beauty and delight, creating a strong emotional bond between the watch and its owner.

Grand Seiko has developed a distinct design language, often characterized by clean lines, refined aesthetics, centuries-old Japanese artistry, and modern innovations.

Most Popular Grand Seiko Dials

Grand Seiko dials express the resplendent and inimitable beauty of Japan. Simply staring at the dials from the brand feels like one is being transported to Shinshu Studio, where all the action takes place. 

The brand draws inspiration for its dials from various sources, including nature, traditional Japanese craftsmanship, and the unique cultural heritage of Japan. 

Let’s take a closer look at each of them.

Snowflake Dial

The term “snowflake” describes a particular pattern found on the dial’s surface, which resembles the texture and sparkle of freshly fallen snow. 

The snowflake dial, which has become one of Grand Seiko’s most popular designs, was introduced to capture the beauty and essence of Japanese winters.

The inspiration behind the snowflake dial can be traced to the natural landscapes of Shinshu, a region in central Japan where the Grand Seiko Studio is located. Shinshu is renowned for its heavy snowfall during the winter season, creating a serene and breathtaking environment.

The distinct texture of this dial is achieved through a technique called “Diamond Dust” or “Miyuki”. Skilled craftsmen apply a series of fine, needle-like cuts to the dial’s surface, creating a three-dimensional pattern that resembles the crystalline structure of snowflakes.

After texturing, multiple translucent layers of a specially formulated coating are applied to the dial’s surface. The coated dial then undergoes a curing process, where it is heated and cooled to ensure the layers adhere properly and achieve the desired texture and color.

Once the dial has been cured, it undergoes meticulous finishing processes, such as polishing and cleaning, giving the dial the appearance of fresh snow with a flawless surface.

Few watches featuring the Snowflake dial include the references SBGA211, SBGA011, SBGA259, and the SBGA407 with its gorgeous Blue Snowflake dial.

Minamo Dial

 “Minamo” is a Japanese word that means “water’s surface” or “water pattern”. Thus, a Minamo dial is one with a design that resembles the rippling effect of water. 

Grand Seiko’s Minamo dials are inspired by the gentle sway of the water surface of Lake Suwa, which lies close to the Shinshu Watch Studio.

The overall pattern and desired visual effect evoke a sense of freshness, purity, calmness, tranquility, and depth.

The design concept for the dial is developed, and then a base, usually of metal, is prepared. This serves as the canvas for the design and is coated with a layer of paint or a special finish.

Afterward, the water pattern is created using techniques such as pad printing, silk-screen printing, and/or hand-painting, where skilled artisans apply layers of paint or enamel to convey a feeling of serenity and tropical vibes.

Once the desired water pattern is achieved, the dial is often coated with a protective layer, such as clear lacquer or transparent enamel. 

This coating not only helps preserve the dial’s design but also enhances its luster and durability. The Minamo Dial can be seen in the Ref. SLGA007, SLGA021, and SLGA019.

Spring Dial

One of the most recognizable features of spring is the blooming of flowers and trees. As temperatures rise, plants awaken from their winter dormancy and begin to sprout new leaves and flowers, adding vibrant colors to the landscape.

Grand Seiko Spring dials incorporate delicate floral patterns which instantly bring to mind the beauty of spring. The designs evoke thoughts of blossoming flowers, leaves, or intricate botanical motifs.

The process involves talented artists creating miniature paintings on watch dials that depict scenes of spring-related motifs. These delicate and detailed paintings are typically done by hand using specialized brushes and tiny paint strokes.

A soft pastel shade which is associated with springtime, like pink, is the popular color with spring dials. This creates a gentle and refreshing aesthetic on the watch dial, as seen in the Ref. SBGA413 and SBGY026.

Silken Sunray Dial

The term “silken” describes a smooth and luxurious texture like silk sort of, while “sunray” refers to a pattern consisting of radiating lines that mimic the rays of the sun, which creates a visually striking effect. When combined, the terms imply a watch dial with a smooth and shiny surface adorned with a sunray pattern.

Shinshu was once a major center of silk production, and Grand Seiko pays tribute to this heritage with this invention.

A metallic base, such as stainless steel or brass, is smoothened by cleaning, polishing, and sometimes sandblasting or brushing. This process greatly removes all imperfections and creates a pristine backdrop for the sunray pattern.

A specialized machine or hand-operated engine then produces repetitive patterns on the metallic surface. These patterns radiate outwards from the center, resembling the rays of the sun. The lines’ depth, angle, and spacing are adjusted to achieve different variations of the sunray effect.

The dial is then polished to get a glossy finish that protects it from scratches and oxidation. The breathtaking Silken Sunray Dial can be seen in the Ref. SBGA437 and SBGP001.

Autumn Dial

Grand Seiko’s autumn dial is one of the most striking, detail-oriented, and fascinating dials ever created. During Fall, leaves on deciduous trees change from their vibrant green shades to hues of red, orange, yellow, and brown. The dials draw inspiration from these hues and offer us a visually appealing representation of the season.

Brass, stainless steel, or ceramic, which is used as a base, is prepared first. Afterward, a matte finish which creates a more subdued and rustic look, is worked out on the base.

Delicate patterns or the silhouette of a tree against a colorful backdrop are then engraved, embossed, or painted onto the dial surface.

Lastly, a protective coating, such as a layer of clear lacquer, is applied to safeguard the dial’s design and produce a reflective sheen. This striking dial can be seen in the SBGH269G.

Mount Iwate Dial

Mount Iwate, also known as Iwate-san, is a prominent mountain located in the Iwate Prefecture of Japan. It stands at an elevation of 2,038 meters (6,686 feet) and is considered one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains. 

It holds significance in Japanese folklore and culture and is visible through the windows of Studio Shizukuishi, where the dials are made by the brand.

Mount Iwate dials incorporate elements or motifs inspired by this mountain. Textures or patterns reminiscent of its landscape, such as ridges, mountain silhouettes, or flowing lines that mimic its contours, are incorporated into the design of the dials.

The dials are then coated with Urushi lacquer, a sap obtained from the Urushi tree which has undergone a meticulous and time-consuming process of refinement. The mesmerizing dials can be found in the Ref.SBGJ201, SBGJ231, and SLGH019.

Whirlpool Dial

Grand Seiko’s whirlpool dials capture the essence of swirling water and convey a sense of energy and movement.

Whirlpools are characterized by a look that often resembles a rotating funnel, and so these dials feature concentric circles or spiraling patterns reminiscent of the motion of a whirlpool. 

Gradient colors that transition from light to dark or vice versa are used to mimic the depth and movement of the water in a whirlpool, creating a visually striking effect.

The dial’s surface is then worked on to generate a textured finish, such as a sunburst or wave pattern, adding depth and aesthetical interest.  The overall effect is nothing short of breathtaking, as can be seen in the Ref. SBGH267

White Birch Dial

The Birch tree is valued for its graceful appearance, practical uses, and distinctive bark. The bark is often white or light-colored, although some species exhibit shades of gray, brown, or even reddish-brown.

The tree is often associated with rebirth, purity, renewal, restoration, and rejuvenescence in various cultures thanks to its peeling bark.

Grand Seiko’s white Birch dial draws inspiration from this tree by incorporating elements reminiscent of the plant’s unique characteristics.

The dial features a combination of white, light gray, and soft brown tones to replicate the colors of birch tree bark. These colors create a visually appealing contrast and reflect the natural beauty of the tree.

The process involves incorporating subtle patterns that imitate the delicate markings found on birch bark. These patterns include thin, vertical lines or gentle curves arranged in a manner that replicates the organic flow of the tree’s bark patterns.

Relish the breathtaking dial in the Ref. SLGA009 and SLGH005G.

Fun fact: Grand Seiko’s White Birch watch (Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours) won the Men’s Watch of the Year prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

Soko Shadow Dial

Grand Seiko translates the Japanese word “Soko” to mean the end of Autumn. 

The dial draws inspiration from the bewitching view of the forest when the first frost drops on it. It features a textured pattern that creates the illusion of shadows and depth, drawing you deeper with a mysterious spell as you stare into it. The texture is created through techniques like sunburst patterns or intricate motifs.

For a more visually appealing effect, contrasting elements, such as raised portions and recessed areas, are applied. The dial may then be brushed, matte, or satin-finished, while other areas may have a polished or glossy surface to further accentuate the contours and texture of the dial. 

The dark grey dial of the SBGA429 is a flawless representation of the Soko Shadow Dial. It has been vertically brushed to reflect stalks in a bamboo forest, giving the face of the watch a three-dimensional appearance.

Kirazuri Dial

Bewitching, seductive, engrossing, and captivating. Those are the words that describe a Kirazuri Dial. Kira-Zuri is a decorative method that involves applying metallic or colored powders onto a lacquered surface to create intricate patterns or designs. 

To make this type of dial, Grand Seiko uses a glossy base with a smooth, high-quality lacquered surface. Metallic or colored powders are delicately applied onto the lacquered surface, and the desired pattern is created. 

The patterns appear raised or embossed, adding visual depth and creating an enthralling interplay of light and shadow. These dials are typically handcrafted by skilled artisans and can be savored in the references SBGA384, SBGA465, and SBGA387.

Hana-ikada Dial

Another dial inspired by nature, the textured appearance of this one takes notes from the floating cherry blossom petals. I’d say it does a pretty good job of conveying this look, not to mention the beautiful pink colorway.

Found with the Grand Seiko model SBGY026, there are only 100 pieces of this design ever made. A favorite for many enthusiasts, you can find this dial within the Elegance Collection Grand Seiko is known for.

The design choice in the dial also looks great alongside Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing, making for a nice contrast in any lighting. Even the case itself stands out in a rose gold colorway that really brings out the pink hue in the dial.

Regarding the watch in question, you’re getting a manually wound Spring Drive movement, including dual mainsprings. Not only is it beautiful on the wrist, but it’s sturdy and built to remain functional for the long term.

Conclusion

Now, go forth and immerse yourself in the world of Grand Seiko. Find that perfect dial that resonates with your soul, adorn your wrist with a timepiece that tells a story, and let the artistry of Grand Seiko accompany you on your journey through time.

What can be said about the Grand Seiko Spring Drive technology that took 20 years to create and refine a revolutionary way to build a mechanical watch? For those not in the know, the unique movement blends quartz technology with the inner workings of a mechanical watch.

There is a wonder in watching the sweep of a mechanical watch, the way it glides around the watch dial. For mechanical and automatic watches, the seconds hand seems like it’s doing a solid sweep, yet in fact, it’s many small ticks going in quick succession. 

With a quartz movement, everyone knows the movement’s tick tick, and many associate that with typical timekeeping. Grand Seiko was able to marry the two technologies to have a seconds hand sweep that is the smoothest in the watch world today.

The Spring Drive Movement Explained

In simplest terms, the Spring Drive movement in Grand Seiko watches is mechanical in design. However, it uses a quartz crystal to maintain accurate time. A unique detail is that there isn’t a battery; everything is powered through the mechanical workings of the watch. 

The Spring Drive movement houses almost all components of a traditional mechanical watch except for the escapement wheel. Instead, it includes a Tri-Synchro Regulator, a complex regulating system that utilizes electric, magnetic, and kinetic energy to synchronize the watch’s operation.

This regulating system produces the necessary electric current that a battery would, which is then fed through the quartz crystal and back to the regulator to monitor the time. Additionally, this system is responsible for the truly mesmerizing sweeping of the seconds hand in the Spring Drive movement.

The History of the Spring Drive Movement

The Spring Drive movement started with one visionary engineer by the name of Yoshikazu Akahane, who worked for Suwa Seikosha, which is now the Seiko Epson Corporation. His idea for a new type of movement was conceived in the 1970s. 

During the early 1970s, he began to work in Suwa Seikosha’s quartz department. After many successful quartz innovations, he began to materialize his idea for the Spring Drive in 1982. After a few failed attempts, the first Spring Drive movement was developed in 1997.

The first Spring Drive movement was in an exhibition at Baselworld in 1999. The first ever watch with a Spring Drive movement was the Seiko SBWA001, and it was fitted with the caliber 7R68. Unfortunately, Akahane couldn’t witness the culmination of his idea, as he passed away in 1998.

Grand Seiko – Mechanical vs. Spring Drive vs. Quartz

From Hi-Beat Diashock movements to Spring Drive and quartz, Grand Seiko does it all and prides itself in its craftsmanship on all levels of its watchmaking prowess. I myself have owned a 9F quartz GMT model from Grand Seiko, the SBGN005, and it is a beautiful no-nonsense watch. 

The quartz technology in it allows for only 10 seconds plus/minus per year. No mechanical watch can compare to that level of timekeeping accuracy. However, there is something to be said about a mechanical watch. 

The beauty is in its engineering and design that it doesn’t require a battery to power the watch, just the energy of it being on your wrist receiving power as you move, allowing the rotor to keep the main spring actively going.

Other than the accuracy of quartz over mechanical and the price of a particular model, I don’t think there is a wrong choice when it comes to the Grand Seiko you prefer. For me, buying a watch is based on its design and how it wears on the wrist. 

If you want a Spring Drive over a regular mechanical watch or a quartz model, they are all good choices. In the end, you buy what you like, and with Grand Seiko, all of their models are fit for someone in the world.

12 Best Grand Seiko Spring Drive Watches

For this list, and in no particular order, I’m going to focus on mainly new watches regardless of their price; I’m just going off of design and what I think looks the best out of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive lineup. I believe the 9R series is the pinnacle of Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches.

1. Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake”

No list would be complete without the quintessential Grand Seiko Spring Drive watch, the SBGA211, also known as the “Snowflake”. Its nickname derives from its captivating hand-made textured white dial that represents a terrain covered by snow. The watch also features attractive dauphine-style hands and an elegant blue seconds hand.

The Snowflake is powered by Grand Seiko’s tried-and-true Spring Drive caliber 9R65. The movement has a power reserve of 72 hours that you can always look at thanks to the indicator on the dial. Plus, the case back on the Snowflake is see-through so that you can admire the beautiful movement inside.

Overall, the SBGA211 is an excellent watch for anyone. It works great in an office environment, and its titanium construction gives it the additional durability to survive your daily life. Whether you’re looking for a multi-purpose timepiece or want to add another beautiful watch to your collection, the Snowflake should definitely be on your radar.

2. Grand Seiko SLGA021

The SLGA021 is an amazing timepiece by Grand Seiko that embodies the tranquility of nature. The watch features a deep blue dial with a distinct wavy pattern that’s inspired by the rippling waters of Lake Suwa in Japan. This truly mesmerizing blue dial sets this watch apart and makes it very elegant. 

The SLGA021 features a stainless steel case built to last, with a screw-down crown that helps achieve the watch’s 100m water resistance. Inside the timepiece beats Seiko’s newest 9RA2 caliber, their most advanced Spring Drive movement yet.

The movement has an exquisite 5-day power reserve and a stated tolerance of ± 10 sec every month. All in all, if you want the best of the best in terms of Spring Drive movements in a magnificent package, the SLGA021 is for you. It’s a great watch for all occasions that also fits several different fashion styles.

3. Grand Seiko SBGY011

If you want a classic design with modern elements (e.g. the movement), look no further than the SBGY011. The design of the SBGY011 is a re-interpretation of an old Grand Seiko watch, the 44GS from 1967.

With its classic white dial, it is just simplicity at its finest. The watch has great legibility for its three-handed design, and the nice added touch of a blued seconds hand is just icing on the cake. Most Grand Seiko designs involve an element of nature, and this model is no different as it invokes the mountains of Shinshu, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive Watches are produced.

This watch is excellent for those wanting something that disappears on the wrist as it weighs in at just 77 g, one of the reasons being the supple crocodile leather strap it comes with.

Of course, the 9R31 manual wound movement is Grand Seiko’s renowned Spring drive movement, which gives the wearer 72 hours of power reserve and ± 15 seconds per month, which is amazing in terms of watch accuracy. It also has 100 m of water resistance, which most dress watches don’t even come close to.

4. Grand Seiko SLGA015

If you are in the market for a sporty watch with all of the bells and whistles and a Spring Drive movement inside, look no further than the SLGA015. It’s a dive watch that can contend with all of the other dive watches in the market and then some. It comes with 200 m water resistance, magnetic resistance, sapphire crystal, and a titanium case and bracelet.

It’s the ultimate watch for scratch resistance and toughness. This diver also houses the 9RA5 Spring Drive movement, which gives it an accuracy of ± 10 seconds per month with a tremendous 5-day power reserve. The power reserve indicator is also a nice added feature, so you can always know how long your watch will last.

The SLGA015 also includes Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite, for great nighttime and diving legibility. The watch does have a unique 23 mm lug width, so it may be hard to find additional straps for it. Still, I don’t think you’ll be taking off the amazing bracelet on this timepiece.

5. Grand Seiko SBGE285

Every traveler needs a watch, and the tool they should use is a GMT function on their timepiece. It allows the wearer to track different time zones as they go about their journey. They can have that tool watch with a lot of added style if they choose the SBGE285. 

It’s a beautiful, elegant white dial watch that is both a tool watch and a dressier option for those on the go for travel and a pleasant night out with friends. This is another titanium watch that adds to the ruggedness of travel for the wearer. This watch also invokes the snowy mountains of Nagano, which is easily noticed in the beautifully patterned snow-like winterscape dial.

The SBGE285 uses the 9R66 Spring Drive movement with ± 15 seconds per month, 100 m of water resistance, just everything you need when you are a globetrotter. This watch is also a true GMT or a traveler’s GMT, which has an independent jumping hour when adjusting from the crown.

6. Grand Seiko SBGC249

For those looking for a refined chronograph/GMT with a Spring Drive movement, the SBGC249 is an easy choice for first-time buyers and collectors alike. I also chose the blue dial version as it has a striking yet romantic nighttime sky motif on the dial and bezel. The dial features two chronograph subdials, a power reserve indicator, and a dedicated GMT hand.

This makes the SBGC249 the ultimate tool watch. This watch houses the 9R96 Spring Drive movement with plus/minus 10 seconds per month and 100 m of water resistance.  The timepiece delivers functionality and style. For those looking for a GMT or a chronograph, you can check off both boxes with this model. 

7. Grand Seiko SBGA467

This watch is simple and elegant in its design. It is like the little black dress/slim black suit that goes with everything. The inky black dial goes with any formal attire and can accompany you on all your formal events.

Still, the watch’s sportier nature makes it a great accessory for an everyday look with a t-shirt and a pair of jeans. The SBGA467 houses the 9R65 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Thanks to its low price tag, it’s an excellent affordable option for a timeless piece that can go anywhere with you.

8. Grand Seiko SBGA461

The Grand Seiko SBGA461 is another no-nonsense dive watch, this time in stainless steel. It is an excellent sports watch that can also be used as a professional diver. A little heftier than titanium, the stainless offers extra weight for those who want something ampler on their wrist. 

With 200 m water resistance, this watch houses the 9R65 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve and ± 15 seconds per month accuracy. Like any other Seiko dive watch, it has the always trustworthy LumiBrite to take nighttime legibility to the next level.

9. Grand Seiko SBGY002

This watch is a sign of coming up in the world, celebrating something wonderful in one’s life or just something to buy because of its beauty. It is, of course, the prototypical yellow-gold watch. The SBGY002 comes in 18 k yellow gold on a beautiful crocodile leather strap.

It evokes images of the 1950s when men wore hats and suits, but it can be contemporary too in today’s varied fashion trends. It houses the 9R31 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve, giving the watch that modern touch with an old-world feel.

10. Grand Seiko SBGC223

This next one is a hulk of a watch at 46 mm, so it’s definitely aimed at people with larger wrists. The SBGC223 doesn’t just involve the superb Spring Drive movement. It also has next-level technology in its combination of high-intensity titanium and ceramic in both the dial, bezel, and bracelet. The watch also combines the functionality of a chronograph and a GMT.

It houses the 9R86 Spring Drive movement with 72 hours of power reserve and plus/minus 15 seconds per month. This watch has a big presence for those who want or need a big watch. It’s also very durable as it will be very tough to scratch with its combination of titanium and ceramic all over the watch.

11. Grand Seiko SBGA413

A watch based on the 62GS from 1967, this beautiful watch with the beautiful scenery of a cherry blossom style on the dial is breathtaking. This is, without question, my favorite watch on the list. It is masculine yet feminine in its design, making you want to wear it. There’s nothing else that needs to be said about this watch. It has the always excellent 9R series of Spring Drive movements. It’s a watch that needs to be seen and experienced on the wrist. 

12. Grand Seiko SBGD202

As part of the masterpiece collection, the SBGD202 is one of the most expensive watches in the Grand Seiko Spring Drive lineup. It has a beautiful design of a night sky in all of its glory and is in 18 k rose gold. 

It also houses the 9R01 Spring Drive moment, giving the watch an astounding 8-day power reserve. This is one of those once-in-a-lifetime watches if you are able to purchase it as well as the platinum version. Grand Seiko continues to provide credibility as one of the premiere watchmakers in the world.

Conclusion

The 9R series of Grand Seiko is a wonder to the watch world. The Spring Drive movement is unparalleled in the sweep of its second hand. Any watch enthusiast or collector can tell you how satisfying the sweep of the seconds hand on a watch is. Throughout this whole article, I didn’t touch on Zaratsu polishing, and the mirror-like finish of Grand Seiko watches.

Most or all of the watches on this list have Zaratsu finishing in some form or another, and let me tell you, it’s amazing. Other watch brands have polished watches, but Grand Seiko is on another level. So, if you are on the lookout for a Grand Seiko, Spring Drive is an excellent option, especially the 9R series.