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Grand Seiko SBGA413 Review

I grew up in Southwest Virginia and experienced four well-defined seasons. Little did I realize back then that I underestimated the numerous subtle nuances of a revolution around the sun and the “nature of time” it could convey.

Fortunately, Japanese culture, particularly Grand Seiko, has taught me more. The Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Shunbun” (Spring Equinox)  is both part of the Heritage Collection “Four Seasons” line initially launched in the U.S. (now available worldwide) and a larger group of the brand’s models that honor the Japanese concept of 4 main seasons with 6 phases for a total of 24 sekki.  

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Also nicknamed the “Cherry Blossom”, the SBGA413 is an excellent example of the superb aesthetics and veneration for artisanal craftsmanship (Takumi) for which the Grand Seiko is known. Like its more well-known “Snowflake” older sibling, the Shunbun dial is breathtaking and mesmerizing, designed to depict the light pink cherry blossoms (Sakura) that quickly flower and fall in the Japanese spring.

But there is so much more to this time-measuring masterpiece than its pretty face. Let’s take a closer look at this amazing watch and gain a greater appreciation for its wholeness and beauty, both inside and out.

History

Grand Seiko SBGA413 History

First, a short history lesson. In 1881, Japanese watchmaker Kintarō Hattori opened his watch and jewelry shop in Tokyo and named his growing brand “Seiko” in 1924. By the late 1950s, Seiko’s affordable and accessible watches were becoming popular worldwide. 

In 1960, the company launched the Grand Seiko sub-brand to produce luxury timepieces that would compete with their Swiss counterparts in both refinement and accuracy. In 2017, Grand Seiko became an independent brand.

Per the Grand Seiko website, the SBGA413 Shunbun is “a modern re-interpretation of the celebrated 62GS from 1967.” The 62GS contained Grand Seiko’s first automatic movement and was renowned for its no-bezel case and open, easy-to-read dial, multiple facets and striking angular lines on both the case and lugs, and highly polished (Zaratsu) surfaces, features which are still present and even more pronounced in the contemporary version.

Building on the successful 2005 launch of the “Snowflake,” the company’s first watch featuring a textured, artistic dial, Grand Seiko introduced the Heritage Collection’s “Four Seasons” line in 2019 in the United States only. 

However, in 2022, the company made the “Spring” SBGA413 and its sibling references—“Winter” (SBGA415), “Summer” (SBGH271), and “Fall” (SBGH273)—available online and in Grand Seiko boutiques around the world.

Case

The SBGA413’s “family resemblance” to the case of its ancestor 62GS is obvious at first glance in shape, dimensions, and finishing—but not material.

The case diameter is 40mm with a case thickness of 12.8mm (which includes the prominent, dual-curved, boxed sapphire crystal), and a lug width of 21mm coupled with a lug-to-lug distance of  46.5mm. 

Together with the case’s no-bezel open face and angular but curving shape and conforming lugs, the Shunbun’s “sweet spot” case specs make for a “right-sized” watch for a wide range of wrists (more on that later under “On-Wrist Experience”).

However, the case material is not your grandfather’s 62GS stainless steel. The Shunbun is instead made of grade 5 titanium, which is renowned for its strength, extreme light weight, and high scratch resistance.

Add to that a matching titanium bracelet (covered further under “Bracelets and Straps”), and you get an extremely comfortable, 3.5-ounce featherweight all-day wearing experience that would make you forget you’re even wearing a watch were it not for the way you keep staring at its stunning dial and fine finishing touches.

Although titanium has a slightly darker tone than stainless steel, Grand Seiko’s use of mirrored Zaratsu distortion-free hand polishing combined with brushed satin finishing on the multi-sided case and lugs makes the spaceship-strength material light up like a gleaming Samurai sword flashing in sunlight. 

While the case’s throwback style and superb finishing lean “dress”, its stamped, screw-down crown and 100-meter water resistance lend enough of a “sport” vibe to make it a versatile and potentially everyday timepiece. And if you still want grandad’s stainless steel after all, it is available in both the “Summer” and “Fall” versions.

The dual-curved, box-domed sapphire crystal is paired with a sapphire display caseback that showcases the innovative and ornate Grand Seiko Spring Drive. And therein lies one of the few legitimate pickable nits about the Shunbun: a large, gold Grand Seiko lion seal partially obscures the watch’s beautifully finished movement. Meant to honor the medallion caseback of the original 62GS, it was well-intended but overdone. 

Perhaps a less prominent and more transparent seal would still celebrate the brand’s heritage without hiding the intricate beauty and high-flying tech of the Spring Drive.

Dial

The well-executed SBGA413 case essentially serves as an ornate but still subordinate “picture frame” to hold the true star of the show: the highly textured, glistening, pale pink yet multichromatic Shunbun dial. It is intended to evoke the impression of the cherry blossoms that bloom and quickly fall around the Spring Equinox in Japan. 

Often the blooms fall onto water, swirl, and start to float away (like time itself), and the Japanese have a term for this also: hana-Ikada, which means “flower rafts”.

That’s an ambitious aim, but with a mix of old-school craftsmanship and proprietary modern techniques, Grand Seiko hits the mark. The dial’s texture is 3-dimensional, mimicking the undulations of a petal floating on water that look to me like “puffy” pale pink clouds etched with fine lines resembling an artist’s brushstrokes on a canvas.

Pink, that is, until they turn something else, like silver, white, or a combination of the three. The dial doesn’t just “play with the light” when you observe it from different angles. It orchestrates multiple wavelengths like a conductor does the many pieces of a symphony. With the Shunbun, you never know exactly which combination of colors you’re going to see, and it’s possible you may not even see the same one twice.

The dial is further festooned with a brushed satin Dauphine hour and minute handset and applied indices accented with Zaratsu polished edges that glint like sunlight on a stream’s surface. A gold-colored applied “GS” logo near 12 o’clock adds even more dimensionality. The black, printed “Grand Seiko” stamp and encircling minute track add contrast and character to the rippling, variegated surface.

A smooth, highly polished seconds hand, powered by the Spring Drive movement, sweeps more smoothly than any automatic ever could, converting the dial into a kinetic sculpture. The 72-hour power reserve indicator sits between the center of the dial and the 7- 8 o’clock positions. There’s a framed date window at 3. Both complications provide practicality and a pleasing touch of imbalance and interest to the serene, mostly symmetrical scene.

Like a masterpiece painting in a museum, no prose, poetry, or one-dimensional, high-resolution macro shot will ever do the Shunbun dial complete justice. You simply have to get hands-on and see it in person and from varying distances and angles to experience its full mesmerizing and transforming effect.

Movement

While the stunning “Spring” dial catches the eye and doesn’t let go, the brand’s innovative in-house Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive enables the Grand Seiko SBGA413 to not just match but even exceed the exacting timekeeping standards of its Swiss competitors.

Regarding the term “in-house”, let’s be clear: the 9R65 is not a lightly modified, off-the-shelf  ETA or Sellita movement like some Swiss brands use, but instead a groundbreaking, proprietary movement that combines both mechanical and electrical components to produce high-performance, quartz-like accuracy.

The Grand Seiko launched the Spring Drive in 1999, and since then the movement has gone through several iterations and improvements. The company officially calls the 9R65  version an “Automatic Spring Drive 3 Day” in reference to its robust 72-hour power reserve. 

It has hackable seconds and complications, including a quick set date and a power reserve indicator. There are 30 jewels, and the seconds hand oscillates at 32,768 Hz, which results in a gliding, shudder-free movement that, according to the company, symbolizes “the beautiful, natural flow of time.” The 9R65’s quartz-like accuracy is rated at an eye-popping +/- 1 second per day or +/- 15 seconds per month.

This amazing precision is accomplished by using a mainspring to store potential energy, which is released to power the movement, so it has no battery. Instead, it is hand-windable with a rotor for automatic winding just like a traditional mechanical movement. However, there is no escapement to control the speed of the energy release. 

In its place, Grand Seiko employs a “Tri-Synchro Regulator”, which, as the name implies, uses 3 types of energy to regulate the various components and processes that produce synchronicity:

  1. The potential energy release from the mainspring;
  2. A high-performance integrated circuit (IC) quartz oscillator that produces an electronic signal from the motion of the mainspring; and,
  3. The transfer and synching of the electronic signal with a “magnetic brake” to control the spin of the glide wheel at exactly 8 revolutions per second which produces the amazing quartz-like accuracy.

If, like me, you’re neither an electrical engineer nor a certified watchmaker, you might need some illustrations and animations to help you get the full picture. Here’s a good video that does just that.

The 9R65 is not just a powerful and precise engine but also a work of fine art unto itself, as displayed through the sapphire caseback. Together with the beautiful textured, colorful dial, the result is the museum painting equivalent of two exquisite pieces of art on both the front and back of the frame. 

It is composed of over 200 colorful components that are hand-assembled. Polished parts and high-end finishing touches, such as diamond cut stripes, enhance the visual effect of the complex, intricate movement.

If Grand Seiko would just alter the display caseback and go a little lighter on the aforementioned brand lion logo in order to provide a less obstructed view of this showcase gem of a movement as they have in other models, the end result would be essentially perfect.

Bracelets and Straps

A watch with a finely manufactured and finished dial, case, and movement begs for a quality bracelet or strap to pair with it and bind the object of joy and satisfaction to the owner’s wrist.

The Grand Seiko Shunbun comes with a matching titanium bracelet with solid end links and a staggered alignment 3-link design with mostly satin brush finishing except for the edges of the center links, which are Zaratsu polished. 

That combination matches the case’s alternating finishes, and the polished edges contrast nicely with the rest of the bracelet. The bracelet is secured with a Grand Seiko logo stamped, single fold clasp with a twin-button release to prevent accidental opening. Rather than screws, the watch has a pin and collar system for link removal and sizing.  

Being titanium, it is naturally very lightweight, and it looks and feels like it has been manufactured with the same care and exacting standards as the rest of the watch.

However, if there is a “weak link” (heh) in the SBGA413, it is nevertheless found in the bracelet, which has a few quirks that the potential buyer should know about on the front end. For instance, the clasp does not sit completely flush with the bracelet but extends out slightly, increasing the chances of accidental snagging. 

There is no fine adjustment, a feature usually found on watch bracelets at most price levels, but there are two half links on each side of the clasp to improve the chances of a good fit. The lug width is the odd 21mm, making it harder to pair with after-market straps than watches with 20 or 22mm lug widths. 

But, many companies are starting to offer more 21mm choices in popular material, style, and color options. Also, some have noted slightly loose tolerances between the end links and watch case, and in their opinion, a little too much gap and jiggle for a $6000 watch.

Still, we’re really using a fine-tooth comb and a microscope to find such minor flaws. The bottom line is that the bracelet is of top-notch quality and pairs very well—if not perfectly—with the watch it holds.

On-Wrist Experience

My local Grand Seiko AD didn’t have a Shunbun in their showcase but did have another all-titanium Heritage Collection model with the same case style and a Spring Drive available to try on. If you’re accustomed to the heft of stainless steel and haven’t tried on a titanium watch before,  “heads up” because it can be a little trippy. 

My first impression was: Whoa, that thing is so light it practically flies out of my hand! But don’t mistake “lightweight” for “cheaply made” because Grand Seiko is a top-level luxury watch brand.

Beyond the comfortable featherweight feel, the watch fit well inside the width of my 6.5-inch wrist, even with the solid end links and 21mm lug width that slightly increase its presence. The short lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm allows an acceptable fit on wrists of 6 inches or even slightly smaller, and the no-bezel design allows the watch to stand out on larger wrists in the 7.5-inch range. 

The slim Spring Drive and case design allow for a slender 12.8 mm thickness, so there is no problem fitting this watch under a cuff—although you’ll probably be constantly sliding it down to bare wrist in order to show it off to others, not to mention stare at it yourself.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGA413 retails for $6,600. Per Watchcharts.com, the average preowned price as of this writing is $4,654, with an approximate range of $4,275-$5,000. The Shunbun is readily available at many Grand Seiko Authorized Dealers, including Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

As I mentioned in the beginning, during the course of researching and writing this review, Grand Seiko became a “time tutor” who taught me seasonal change is more like a full chorus than a quartet. 

The luxury brand’s SBGA413 Shunbun is an ornate, highly accurate, and versatile watch suitable for many occasions. But it’s more than that: it’s a beautiful piece of “wrist art” with nuances you can savor and philosophical lessons about the “nature of time” you can learn and then live out.

To riff on a tagline for another highly accurate watch from a different era:  “It’s not a timepiece. It’s a contemplation piece.”

Grand Seiko SLGA019 Review

Have you ever wondered what the texture of a lake would look like on a watch dial? No, me neither. But of course, nature-loving Grand Seiko has done just that, reinterpreting the blue-colored ripples of Lake Suwa onto the dial of their sporty Evolution 9 model. The result? 

From online images, it should be a sporty chic watch with a dial that leaves you pretty mesmerized. But is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 as good in person? 

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Thankfully, I got hands-on with the model this past week to see if its impressive list of specs is up to scratch. As most of you know, we hold Grand Seiko in high esteem. They are one of just a few brands that have truly mastered horological excellence, proudly focusing on precision, elegance, and functionality. 

Because of this, however, we find ourselves with high standards when it comes to reviewing their watches. So is the Grand Seiko SLGA019 a masterpiece, or is it simply a novelty that fulfills the Japanese watchmaker’s obsession with nature? Let’s find out, shall we.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection

Before we get into the nitty gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, we first need to take a stroll down memory lane and consider where this model came from. Back in 1960, Seiko decided to up their game and create a more luxury-focused range of watches. Enter Grand Seiko, a collection of timepieces with premium finishing, materials and movements. 

Fast forward to 2017 and CEO Shinji Hattori made the announcement that Grand Seiko would become a standalone brand, separate from the Seiko Watch Company. With the Evolution 9 collection, which was launched three years later, Grand Seiko outlined a set of nine design standards that every model must hit. 

These included elements like a flat dial, double wide index at 12 o’clock, multi-faceted hour and minute hands, and a bracelet with at least half the width of the case with the right thickness and heft. 

You might be thinking this sounds like all Grand Seiko watches. And in some ways, it is, but the Evolution 9 hits more differently than you might anticipate. In fact, some of the changes to the design are almost invisible to the naked eye. For example, the way the ergonomic case has a lower center of gravity on the wrist isn’t something you can see, but it’s something you feel once it’s strapped on. 

But does this apply to the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019? For starters, the Japanese watchmaker has forgone the classic flat dial for one inspired by the soft blue ripples of its namesake. 

The luxury watch company has habitually drawn inspiration from aspects of nature surrounding their factory, and this novelty is no different. This time, they look to Lake Suwa, a freshwater lake in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan, known for its natural beauty and hot springs. 

This isn’t the first watch from Grand Seiko to form a “Lake Suwa ” series. In truth, this is the third in a line-up of three. The first was reference SLGA007, launched as part of the brand’s 140th anniversary celebration. 

The second arrived shortly after, reference SBGY007, which utilized a slightly different, but equally exquisite “Omiwatari ” dial pattern and marked the first non-limited edition Lake Suwa watch. Then there was SLGA019, launching later in 2023 and becoming the lightest of them all.

A Lightweight Titanium Case

Arguably, the biggest difference between the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch and the two launched before it is the case material. This time, the 40mm wide and 11.8mm tall case is machined from titanium, a material 30-35% lighter than stainless steel. 

This makes the SLGA019 incredibly wearable and comfortable, especially as an everyday dress watch. The metal also has a slightly warmer hue and softer appearance, plus it benefits from extra corrosion resistance.

This isn’t just any plain old titanium, either. It’s Grand Seiko’s patented high-intensity titanium, which offers a higher level of scratch resistance and durability than standard titanium. 

As I typically do with most titanium watches, I had to weigh it for myself, and according to my scales, reference SLGA019 weighs in at just under 112 grams. It’s a really nice weight for a dress watch; it’s not so light that it feels invisible, but it has a nice lightness that makes it effortless to wear when simply going about your business. 

As you’d expect from Grand Seiko, the finishing of the Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 watch is exceptional. The angular case presents the Evolution 9’s small, sloping lugs with a brushed finish to match the vertically brushed fixed bezel and bracelet links. 

In contrast, the bezel and case sides are finished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing, a technique that involves using a spinning tin plate coated with diamond paste to create a flawless, distortion-free mirror finish. 

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 sits on the wrist with a lug-to-lug width of 47.9mm and boasts dual-curved sapphire crystal glass on top, a screwed exhibition case back – also utilizing sapphire crystal — and a simple knurled crown at 3 o’clock. The crown offers screw-down capability for a reasonable 100-meter water-resistant rating and is topped by the “GS” logo. 

Lake Suwa-Inspired Dial 

Due to its name, many will admire the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 most for its dial. Grand Seiko described the dial of the original Lake Suwa SLGA007 model to be inspired by “the calm waters of Lake Suwa”. 

The second (SBGY007) replicated the look of the water when it froze during the winter. This time, Grand Seiko suggests the lighter hue evokes “the surface of Lake Suwa and its gentle waves in the early morning hours when a breeze stirs the long, shallow lake.” 

In my opinion, this is the best of the “Lake Suwa” dials so far. Why? Because the shade of blue seems to change color depending on your surroundings. It stands out in a bold royal blue in direct sunlight, and yet, in the shade, it becomes an almost discreet shade of black. The supple ripple texture also gives the watch a certain sparkle; both the color and texture are highly responsive to light, reflecting it with every twist and turn. 

The hands and indices are also perfectly finished in the Evolution 9 style. Each hour marker is multifaceted, and the 12 o’clock marker has a double multifaceted shape. Despite not having a touch of lume anywhere on the dial, the display of the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is brilliantly legible. 

The dauphine-style hands are also broad and easy to read, offering classic hours, minutes, and seconds complication. The hour hand has a unique shape, with the end sliced off and a facet running down the center.

All the silvered hardware, including the boxed-in date at 3 o’clock, is brightly polished. My only complaint about the Grand Seiko SLGA019’s dial involves the date window. I can’t help but think, with a dial as beautiful as this, the date should have been neglected. 

And if a date must be insisted on, they should at least swap the white disc to one of navy for a more seamless, subtle finish. The dial is finished with the Grand Seiko logo added in relief at 12 o’clock and lettering denoting information about the movement at 6 o’clock. 

The Spring Drive Movement

Like the previous three Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watches, SLGA019 is powered by the Japanese brand’s in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement. This caliber cleverly combines the precision of a quartz movement with the smooth sweeping motion of a mechanical watch. This alone makes the SLGA019 a valuable timepiece, and when combined with the lightweight case and textured dial, there’s very little to berate. 

The quartz-mechanical hybrid is ingeniously engineered to maintain a remarkable accuracy of ±0.5 seconds per day or ±10 seconds per month. This exceptional accuracy is achieved through a combination of a quartz oscillator for timing stability, a mechanical gear train for power transmission, and an electromagnetic brake to regulate the speed of the glide wheel. 

The result is a movement that not only keeps impeccable time but also provides a unique tactile experience with its smooth, silent glide of the seconds hand. 

There’s plenty of pleasant finishing seen through the case back. I particularly like the frosted plates and bridges that are inspired by the frost that winter brings to the trees surrounding Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facility. 

As always, there’s blued screwed, beveled edges, 38 jewels, and an off-set magic lever to keep the movement, and consequently, the case, nice and thin. Rather than being placed on the front of the dial like most of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches, the power reserve is positioned on the back of the movement, so when the watch is off your wrist, you can see what’s remaining out of its 120-hour reserve.

Titanium Bracelet

Like the case, the bracelet is made using Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium. It boasts a three-link construction with a completely matte finish thanks to the vertically brushed decoration. It tapers from a 22mm lug width where it meets the case down to a 21mm width where the buckle appears. The buckle is embossed with the GS logo on top and has folding functionality with push button release. 

One of the few weak points of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 is that the bracelet lacks any sort of micro-adjustment. This hampers its ability to be used as a daily wearer since anyone familiar with wearing metal bracelet watches will know your wrist can swell and contract as the day goes on and temperatures vary. 

It would have been a nice addition for Grand Seiko to include a micro-adjustment system on this bracelet; I know it’s a feature many GS enthusiasts have been hoping for in the Evolution 9 series. 

It also comes with push pins for sizing instead of screws, which is a little crazy for a watch of this caliber. I’ve said it once, but I’ll say it again: Grand Seiko does everything right until it comes to their metal bracelets.

The bracelet does arrive with drilled lugs, though, so you can easily swap around the strap to something more suitable if you want. The 22mm lug width means you’ll have an endless supply of strap options to choose from. If it were me, I’d invest in a better-styled titanium bracelet or a nice chocolate brown alligator leather band.

On-Wrist Experience

With a watch like the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019, wearability is essential. First impressions confirmed that this was a watch I could effortlessly wear all day, every day. Its titanium construction is incredibly lightweight, and its dimensions make it effortlessly wearable for most wrist types. 

The lug-to-lug is a little larger than I’d like, but the slender profile, sleek curves, and low center of gravity make up for this. I’d suggest the SLGA019 would be best suited to those with six and a half inch wrists and above – but even myself, with a five-and-a-half-inch wrist enjoyed the statement this watch made. 

While its case makes it a daily beater, the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 makes it one of the finest dress watches in the collection. The detailing and shade of blue are divine, and as always, the finishing on the dial’s hardware makes it sparkle almost like a diamond in certain lights. Its 11.8mm height means it’s also ideal for slipping it under shirt cuffs – although if it were me, I’d keep this bad boy out in the open for everyone to see.

Price & Availability 

The Grand Seiko SLGA019 retails for $10,400 brand new and is available to order from your local authorized dealer, including Exquisite Timepieces. It can also be found on the second-hand market for around $6,500. It’s another non-limited edition design, but with how popular the “Lake Suwa” series has proven so far, I wouldn’t expect it to stay in stock for much longer.

Conclusion

Like any watch, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “Lake Suwa” SLGA019 has some room for improvement. Where the design is let down most is on the bracelet. I’m really hoping Grand Seiko up their bracelet game soon, as a watch like this deserves some micro-adjustment, and it especially needs to have screws rather than push pins. I’d also like to see the “Lake Suwa” series either dateless or at least with a color-matching date disc to match the textured display.

Other than that, the Grand Seiko SLGA019 is exceptional. The lightness of the titanium case, the levels of finishing on the case and bracelet, and the detail found on the detail are breathtaking. 

Then you have the in-house 9RA2 Spring Drive movement as the cherry on top. The weekday-proof 120-hour power reserve is extremely useful, and with a level of precision like this, you’ll never have an excuse for being late. I stand by my claim that this is the most handsome Grand Seiko “Lake Suwa” watch released so far.

Grand Seiko SLGH013 Review

Grand Seiko SLGH013 Review – The Snowflake in Spring

Benedetto Youssef

August 28, 2024

Many people purchase luxury watches that are recognizable, iconic, and flashy, often to impress others. However, it is said that you buy a Grand Seiko not to impress others but rather to impress yourself. 

There is something both tangible and intangible about the beauty of a Grand Seiko. The sharp lines and Zaratsu polished edges certainly leave an impression. 

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On the SLGH013, the Ever-Brilliant Steel case, a proprietary corrosion-resistant steel, has a nice heft to it—a reminder that you are wearing something special and exceptionally durable. Beyond the tactile pleasures of wearing a luxury timepiece, the SLGH013’s dial is both poetic and romantic. But more on that later…

History

Grand Seiko SLGH013 History

The Grand Seiko SLGH013 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. 

Released in 2023, the SLGH013 is a perfect blend of past and present, utilizing new case materials, movement technology, and a more compact and wearable size; overall, the SLGH013 makes a strong case for being a near-perfect Grand Seiko.

Case

I think it would be silly to discuss this case without first bringing up the new and improved dimensions. The new generation movement (9SA5) allows for a much more appropriate form factor that can be dressed up or down. This watch seemed right at 40mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. 

I don’t have the largest wrist, at 6.75 inches. Trying on a variety of different Grand Seiko models had always left me pursing my lips and wondering: “Can I pull this off, or is it just a smidge too big?” 


And then, one day, I saw the SLGH013 for the first time…

The proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel paired amazingly well with the case, offering an ethereal sheen, further accentuated by what I knew was Zaratsu polishing on the edges of the case. 

I’d read that the new case material was more corrosion and scratch-resistant than Oystersteel, and a bit of research later confirmed that the material is not gimmicky but rather offers greater durability to the wearer. Hats off to Grand Seiko for their continued exploration of movement and material technology.

…And there it was—three feet away from me—winking at me, beckoning me to slip it over my wrist. I felt my heart quicken. I had to try this watch on. I had to see how it fit on my wrist. 

Dial

Grand Seiko is the master of dials this side of fifty thousand dollars. Their three-dimensionality, color-changing attributes, and connections to nature all make for a viewing experience that is leaps and bounds above the competition. 

The SLGH013 has a light blue, textured dial that evokes spring’s melting snow on Mt. Iwate, the 2,000-meter mountain visible from the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi workshop where all their mechanical watches are crafted. 

If you look closely enough, you’ll see individual strands of ice arranged this way and that. Your eyes can get lost in the visual maze, settling on darker spots or finding new shapes in the lighter crevices. For me, gazing upon the SLGH013’s dial was like sitting in a zen garden. 

I could meditate and just enjoy getting lost in the dial intricacies. Try doing that with a regular old black or blue dial…

And Grand Seiko being Grand Seiko means they don’t cut corners. The dial has Zaratsu polished hands and hour markers, offering superb legibility and light play even in low-light environments. Sure, you don’t get lume, but this watch is still super legible in most situations! 

Movement

The 9SA5 automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances. 

The new 9SA5 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This design retains its precision for longer and is more resistant to shock and friction. 

Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. The Grand Seiko SLGH013 has a sapphire case back with a large aperture, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. 

I was mesmerized by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps

Yes, yes—we’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine adjustment. 

The SLGH013’s bracelet is a step above the standard stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, as it is crafted from Ever-Brilliant Steel. It felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. However, the 19mm lug width may pose a challenge when seeking alternative straps. 

Fortunately, the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes, offering some versatility despite the size constraint. So, the bracelet is not the SLGH013’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience

“Is that the SLGH013?” I asked, even though I already knew the answer. 

“It sure is,” the salesman said, a smile on his face as he put on white gloves to present the timepiece to me. 

I swallowed. This was my moment. I felt like King Arthur, preparing to pull the sword from the stone. I’d tried on many Grand Seiko watches in the past, and though they visually tickled my fancy, they never checked that final and most important box: wearability. 

He handed the watch over to me and I gently placed my hand through the bracelet. The dial was unreal in person—no pictures could possibly do it justice. And it wore perfectly on my 6.75-inch wrist. 

It had no lug overhang, and it was slim enough to fit under my shirt’s collar. Beyond that, it offered a muted, sporty styling. I have no doubts that this watch will go perfectly with jeans and a T-shirt, or even a suit. I’d confidently say that this watch would do well on wrists ranging from 6 inches all the way up into the 8-inch territory, too.

Price & Availability

The SLGH013 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $9,500. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SLGH013, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces

We’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. 

We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or various watch forums. Still, with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success. 

The SLGH013 is, in my opinion, as close to perfect as one can get with a Grand Seiko. It offers superb wearability, finishing, and movement technology, all while being a direct descendant of the legendary 44GS. 

You don’t have to take my word on it, but I guarantee when you strap the SLGH013 for the first time, when your eyes widen in disbelief at the Zaratsu polished edges, when they get lost within the snowy Mt. Iwate, then and only then will you fully understand why Grand Seiko is the pride of Japan.

Omega Globemaster Review

ULTIMATE Omega Globemaster Review (READ Before Buying!)

Benedetto Youssef

August 23, 2024

Omega watches have adorned the wrists of astronauts, secret agents, celebrities, professional athletes, and even yours truly. They are one of the most globally recognizable brands, with a rich history of horological innovation and superb craftsmanship. 

When people think of Omega, they usually think of the Speedmaster Moonwatch or perhaps the Seamaster Diver. Both collections offer great versatility and styling but can be a bit “busy” or “complicated” for daily wear. Enter the Omega Globemaster.

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About the Omega Globemaster

A no-nonsense grab and daily activity watch (GADA for short), the Omega Globemaster offers beauty in its simplicity. The Omega Globemaster is a sleeper choice for anyone seeking a timepiece that can be worn with a suit or a pair of jeans—that can be taken from the boardroom to the beach. 

It has a fluted bezel that accentuates the star of the show: the pie-pan dial, an ode to Omega’s earliest Constellation watch, released in 1952. The current version is available in two sizes: the 39mm offers great wearing dimensions, while the 41mm offers an additional and unique complication: an annual calendar with a pointer month.

History of the Omega Globemaster 

Going through any watch catalog can often be confusing, and a quick visit to Omega’s website reveals that the Globemaster line of watches is, in actuality, a subcollection of the Constellation line. This is due to the Globemaster’s historical connection with the earlier Constellation watches. 

Previously, there was a legal complication surrounding the use of the name “Constellation” in the USA, prompting Omega to adopt the name “Globemaster” instead. Consequently, the Globemaster remains a part of the Constellation line of watches to this day.

The first “Constellation” watch was launched in 1952, with a pie-pan dial and an applied star just above the 6 o’clock, visual characteristics that remain over 70 years later! Thanks to its top-notch build and reliable precision, the Constellation quickly became known as “The Swiss watch.” The eight stars on its medallion stand for the eight precision records OMEGA set at Kew-Teddington and the Geneva Observatory in the mid-20th century. The iconic engraving of the stars and observatory is a nod to these accomplishments and to the amazing accuracy the Constellation watch has always delivered.

I absolutely adore watches with a rich history. The iconic engraving of an observatory and eight stars is still situated as a medallion atop the sapphire exhibition caseback of every Omega Globemaster watch; the first time I held one in my hand and flipped it over, I felt an overwhelming sense of Omega’s identity: precision timekeeping, space exploration, movement technology, and heritage.

Omega Globemaster: In-Depth Review 

Available in two case sizes—39mm and 41mm—an array of dial colors, strap options, and case materials, the Omega Globemaster is as versatile as can be. Regardless of your preferences, there is a perfect Omega Globemaster suitable for everyone. 

My favorite 39mm version is the sun-brushed blue dial, and in 41mm, my eyes kept settling on the sun-brushed green dial (for some reason, Omega seems to love the word sun-brushed here). As with any timepiece, the specifics are important, so let’s get into it! 

Case Sizes & Materials

When first visiting an AD for a watch model I am unfamiliar with, I proudly point to my bony wrists, sheepishly smile, and ask what sizes does the watch come in. I quickly learned that the Omega Globemaster comes in two size configurations: 39mm and 41mm. 

The salesman was extraordinarily accommodating and knowledgeable, insisting on trying both sizes before deciding. The 39mm has a lug to lug of 46.7mm, a case thickness of 12.6mm, and a lug width of 20mm. 

These smaller models are available in stainless steel, two-tone steel and yellow gold, two-tone steel and Sedna (rose) gold, solid Sedna gold, and solid platinum. He had everything in stock, so I was lucky enough to get some wrist time with virtually all of the configurations. I felt like a kid in a candy shop.

The 41mm version was larger, but not so much that it would appear comical on an average wrist. It has a lug-to-lug of 50.1mm, a case thickness of 14.6mm, and a lug width of 20mm. This larger model is available in stainless steel, two-tone steel and Sedna gold, solid Sedna gold, and solid platinum. 

Additionally, the 41 mm stainless steel case features a tungsten carbide bezel for greater durability. My experience with tungsten carbide, to this point, was limited to rings and men’s jewelry, but seeing Omega’s usage of different materials was a breath of fresh air in an industry that often doesn’t think outside of the box.

Both sizes offer 100m of water resistance, though it’s worth noting that Omega achieves this without a screw-down crown (which I am totally okay with!). The Omega Globemaster, like all Omega watches, is crafted to a high standard, with superior anti-magnetic (15,000 gauss) and shock-resistant properties. 

Either version is the perfect accompaniment to using a sledgehammer and running through magnetic fields, but in all seriousness, these watches are up to the task no matter what you throw at them.

Dials

When I first saw that Omega pie-pan dial, I was mesmerized. And I didn’t even know what a pie pan was (according to my wife, it’s that white ceramic pan in which she bakes apple pies). Baking aside, this dial pattern makes the Globemaster seem like it came through a time machine straight from the 1970s (and it’s very legible, too). 

The brilliant dials, available in various hues of blue, silver, white, gray, green, brown, gold, and even vivid red, are framed by the signature fluted bezel, offering superior light play and an elevated wearing experience. The 41mm versions have an extra hand because of their annual calendar functionality, pointing to the appropriate month written in elegant cursive. 

Movements

The 39mm version of the Omega Globemaster comes with the Calibre 8900, a self-winding movement equipped with a Co-Axial escapement. It is certified as a Master Chronometer, approved by METAS, demonstrating superior accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. 

Its design incorporates a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, complemented by two barrels mounted in series for automatic winding in both directions. The exquisite finish includes a rhodium-plated rotor and bridges adorned with Geneva waves in arabesque, adding a touch of luxury. This movement offers a generous 60 hours of power reserve. 

The 41mm version of the Omega Globemaster features the Calibre 8923, a self-winding movement featuring a Co-Axial escapement. This movement is also a certified Master Chronometer. Its construction includes a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, along with twin barrels. 

Notably, it offers an annual calendar with an instantaneous jump and a central-hand month indication. Adding to its prestige is an elevated luxury finish, characterized by an 18K Sedna™ gold rotor and balance bridge embellished with Geneva waves in arabesque. This movement offers 55 hours of power reserve.

Strap Options

Because both watches have a 20mm lug width, there is a wide variety of straps available for purchase, both from Omega and even aftermarket. That said, Omega offers a variety of leather straps, with crocodilian patterns: gray, navy, brown, green, tan, and oxblood. The 39mm version can be purchased with a stainless steel bracelet, or two tone yellow gold and steel/Sedna gold and steel. When I visited the AD, I tried on both bracelet and leather strap options, and the bracelet won by a landslide. 

But I didn’t see any of the 41mm versions on the bracelet, so I asked if they could fit one on for me. They, unfortunately, informed me that the bracelet did not fit the larger 41mm version because of the difference in case thickness. I shrugged, slightly disappointed that customers with larger wrists didn’t have access to the same excellent bracelet as those available on the 39mm version.

On The Wrist

Now my wrist is a bit on the smaller side, at 6.75 inches, but not far from the “average” of most men. With that said, I found the 39mm version of the Globemaster to be an absolute joy on the wrist. It has a lug-to-lug of 46mm, which is only 1mm less than my Omega Railmaster. For those that don’t know, lug-to-lug width is measured from the end of the 12 o’clock lug to the end of the 6 o’clock lug. This measurement is usually a better predictor of wearability than case size. 

Lug-to-lugs shorter than 50mm are often best or average wrists because they don’t “overhang” over the edges of your wrist. This makes for a much more comfortable wear. Some watches feel like a burden to wear, and others disappear on the wrist. The 39mm Globemaster disappeared on my wrist when I tried it on at the AD. The 41mm Globemaster is larger, with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. It did not, and after 30 seconds of wearing it, I knew it would never work for me. 

Most Popular Omega Globemaster Models 

There are close to twenty configurations of the Omega Globemaster for sale. With such a dizzying number of options, I’d like to offer you five of my favorites that are worthy of your consideration.

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Silver Dial on Bracelet (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster 39mm White Dial (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

This is the bread and butter of the Omega Constellation collection; 39mm, stainless steel, with Omega’s legendary Co-Axial movement, this watch is an appropriate accompaniment to virtually any outfit or situation. With a color-matching date at the 6 o’clock position and a pristine silver pie-pan dial, the Omega Constellation Globemaster in 39mm is a no-brainer, especially considering its value proposition at $7,900. 

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that after black, blue is one of the most popular dial colors in horology. For those looking to add a splash of color and style to their daily wear, the Omega Constellation Globemaster, with its deep, but not quite navy, blue dial, is both elegant and subtle in its aesthetic charm. 

Of all the dial colors, I think the fluted bezel really compliments the blue best. After some reflections, I think the contrast of polished steel and the light play work really well with the deep blue dial. This specific reference comes on a leather crocodile patterned strap, but the stainless steel bracelet is available as well. The MSRP with the strap is $7.500.

Omega Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Annual Calendar 41mm (ref. 130.33.41.22.10.001)

I may be a bit biased here because green is my favorite color, but Omega really hit the bullseye with what they refer to as a “sun-brushed” green dial. The tungsten carbide bezel provides enhanced durability and scratch resistance, and the 41mm sizing offers greater wrist presence and legibility, which is necessary for using the annual calendar function—each month printed in sharp cursive and flanked by the applied indices. 

A green leather strap, matching the dial, is both supple and complimentary to the timepiece. Omega manages to pack loads of technology, finishing, and horology in this timepiece, all while keeping it under $10,000 (MSRP of $9,200). This is a watch worthy of your consideration! 

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Yellow Gold (ref. 130.53.39.21.02.002)

A yellow gold watch is a sign of accomplishment, of life’s journey, of considering one’s success. The yellow gold Omega Constellation Globemaster in 39mm exudes luxury and sophistication. It has an opaline silvery dial, with yellow gold indices, star, and hand set. 

The motif coin on the back of the watch is also in yellow gold, with a Sedna gold rotor to offer some contrast. Overall, anyone looking for a gold watch that can be dressed up or down should greatly consider this model, as the MSRP of $25,200 is a bargain when considering the competition. 

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Sedna Gold & Steel (ref. 130.20.39.21.03.001)

I know some consider Sedna gold to be a fancy name for rose gold, but I have to admit that there is something special about the luster and light play of Omega’s Sedna gold—it feels out of this world, which is appropriate considering the brand’s connection to space exploration. This is a two-tone stainless steel and Sedna gold piece, complete with a two tone bracelet that offers the perfect marriage between casual and dressy. 

The sun-brushed blue dial is a marvel to behold, and the 39mm sizing fits the needs of the vast majority of wrists. I know what you’re probably thinking: two-tone Sedna gold with a bracelet, that has to be a lot of money. But it’s not; the Omega Constellation Globemaster Sedna and Steel watch retails for $13,600, offering superb value for the money.


Should You Buy An Omega Constellation Globemaster?

The wonderful thing about the Omega Constellation Globemaster is that there is a timepiece in this collection for everyone, truly. It makes a great graduation or early career piece in stainless steel. It also travels well—hence the name—in either 39 or 41mm. 

Its 100m of water resistance, superior antimagnetic properties and shock resistance, and timeless styling make for a dynamic timepiece. So yes, I wholeheartedly suggest this collection to anyone looking for something that will wear well, age well, and offer superior time telling.

Omega Globemaster Pricing & Availability

Omega Globemasters are available at all authorized dealers of Omega. The stainless steel models, on the leather straps, start at $7,500. Opting for the bracelet brings the price up to $7,900. The two-tone, Sedna gold and steel models are $13,600. Jumping up to the 41mm annual calendar, in stainless steel, will set you back $9,200. Two tone 41mm models are $12,900, and the solid Sedna gold model retails for $30,200; the full Sedna gold with Sedna gold dial is the most expensive of the entire collection, at $36,600.

If you are seeking an Omega Globemaster Watch, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Omega. As an authorized dealer of Omega, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. 

We also have a great collection of Omega Constellation Globemaster watches. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Omega includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase an Omega timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

Considering the price, brand heritage, technology, and horological significance, I think you would be hard-pressed to find as solid of a watch as the Omega Globemaster in any guise. The 39mm wears like a glove on my 6.75-inch wrist, and it wears just as well on smaller or larger wrists. Next time you pass by an Omega dealer, don’t only consider trying on the heavy hitters, but also consider trying on this collection; I think you’ll be shocked as to how great it wears!

Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 Review

A question I get asked more than any other is, “what watch do I recommend to others?”. The answer changes depending on my current mood, the time of year, and the occasion in mind. However, more often than not, the answer is one of the latest novelties from Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko.

Grand Seiko is one of those brands I can talk about forever. They have an incredible history filled with groundbreaking technologies and, of course, some truly outstanding watches that take the cake – even over some of the world’s biggest watch names. One of Grand Seiko’s most memorable releases, and one that caught my attention as soon as it launched back in 2021, was the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 watch. And to my delight, I’ve been lucky enough to get hands-on with this model for review.

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History of Grand Seiko & the Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007

Grand Seiko has carved a truly remarkable legacy in the world of watchmaking since its inception in 1960. Founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create the world’s most “perfect” timepiece and did exactly that, ensuring every Grand Seiko watch embodies precision, legibility, durability, and beauty. There’s no shortage of stunning families forming the Grand Seiko name, but those that appreciate rich heritage and traditional craftsmanship should look at the Grand Seiko Heritage collection.

The Heritage Collection pays homage to GS’s history of tradition and innovation. These watches often boast beautifully textured dials inspired by an aspect of Grand Seiko’s story, as well as dressy cases and powerful in-house movements. 

There are a variety of references worthy of attention in the Heritage family, but as mentioned, a personal favorite of mine is the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007. It’s a special watch launched to celebrate the Seiko Company’s 140th anniversary, limited to just 140 pieces worldwide. It’s also just one of a few watches from Grand Seiko handcrafted from premium 950 platinum and decorated with a unique dial inspired by the tree rings of a cedar tree.

A Platinum Case

One of the most distinguishing features of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is the case. At first glance, you might think the architecture is 18ct white gold, but it’s actually made from 950 platinum, a material denser, harder, and more complex than gold. In fact, platinum can be so difficult to machine watch cases like this can take three times longer to produce than their gold-crafted counterparts. 

Once completed, though, a platinum case is a masterpiece in its own right, boasting highly durable and corrosion-resistant properties. If scratched, it can also easily be polished and won’t lose volume as gold does.

This does mean though, that platinum watches are typically expensive and hard to come by. But without fear of revealing the price too quickly, I’m very impressed with the price tag of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 – especially when compared to watches of the same stature. Much of that comes down to the finishing of the case. Every element of the case contrasts to its neighbor with its own unique finishing. 

For starters, I love the faceted lug ends that have a combination of cuts and bevels that are polished or brushed. In the same fashion, the fixed, unadorned bezel has beautiful hairline vertical brushed finishing, which contrasts with the lug and bezel sides, which are polished using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu technique. This innovative practice involves pressing and sliding the platinum against a metal plate covered with 400- to 800-grit sandpaper. 

It’s an art that takes around 3 years to master and is done completely by hand. There are not many watch brands these days that can claim their watches are hand-finished, and it’s another of the many reasons I love Grand Seiko so much. The polished elements of the case are almost mirror-like and add a sense of energy to the platinum housing that feels very much in line with Grand Seiko’s obsession with light and shadow play.

As for dimensions, the Grand Seiko SLGH007 sits on the wrist at 40mm wide and 11.7mm tall. It’s a little wider than some of the other Heritage models launched before 2020, but the height is significantly slimmer, which gives the watch a dressier feel overall. 

There’s also a lug-to-lug width of 46.7mm, which, although it sounds large, thanks to the sloped case, actually sits very compactly on most wrist sizes. It’s a dress watch, after all, so it’ll happily slip under the shirt of a cuff. Yet, thanks to its 100-meter water resistance, it becomes a go-anywhere-do-anything watch offering plenty of protection against everyday exposure to water.

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 watch also presents a knurled crown positioned at 3 o’clock. Despite its 100-meter water-resistant rating, it’s your standard push-in crown, so there’s no need to screw it in and out. The crown is nicely engraved with the “GS” of the Grand Seiko logo. Finally, the glass used to protect the centerpiece dial is box-domed sapphire crystal. It’s the domed silhouette of the glass that adds some of the height to the case’s dimensions, also adding to the design’s vintage appeal.

A Cedar Tree Dial

I think this might be one of the finest dials Grand Seiko has ever done – and that’s saying something because there are some spectacular examples out there. The color of the dial is what I would call anthracite; it’s not quite jet black but has more of a dark gray tone, allowing the texture of the surface to come through. But it’s not the color that has my attention; it’s the surface. Grand Seiko describes the texture here as woodgrain, inspired by the tree rings found on cedar wood.

The finish is so spectacular you’d be forgiven for mistaking the dial as one made from real wood. The color-changing waves or rings are really unique, and unlike any dial I’ve seen before. But it’s not only beautiful; it’s also purposeful. Since Grand Seiko launched the SLGH007 as part of their 140th-anniversary celebrations, the company chose the wood grain texture as a nod to the parallels between growing trees and Grand Seiko. In the same way, trees slowly develop layers of wooden rings over the years, and Grand Seiko has slowly evolved in its design and engineering prowess.

Set upon the cedar-inspired display is an array of 18-carat white gold indices and hands. They all feature the intricate micro-faceted and satin-polished alternation seen on most of Grand Seiko’s dial hardware. Except in this instance, the markers are engineered from white gold and not steel. 

Like the hands and indices, even the white gold border for the date window at 3 o’clock utilizes 18-carat white gold and emits a spectacular level of light play. This also assists in the dial’s legibility since no luminous substance is used anywhere. The dial also features a matching 18-carat white gold Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and markings depicting features of the movement at 6 o’clock.

An In-House, Hi-Beat Movement

Just when you thought the level of craftsmanship couldn’t get any higher, you turn the watch over and see the Caliber 9SA5. This is an in-house manufacture movement designed and developed entirely by Grand Seiko. It was launched just before the Grand Seiko SLGH007 in 2020 to mark the creation of the Grand Seiko brand 60 years prior. It represents a huge leap in technology compared to the 9S calibers before it. 

For starters, while still maintaining its high-beat frequency of 36,600 or 5Hz, it delivers an extended power reserve of 80 hours (compared to 55 hours before). This is thanks to the new twin barrel architecture, allowing the watch to be taken off the wrist for an entire weekend without any need for rewinding on Monday.

The Caliber 9SA5 automatic winding movement also debuts Grand Seiko’s Dual Impulse Escapement. This is a clever mechanism that allows the power from the escape wheel to be transferred directly to the balance. What does this mean exactly? Well ultimately, it allows the movement to use less power transfer to counter the increased vibration rate of the balance. In turn, it improves the overall accuracy of the movement. 

Additionally, according to Grand Seiko, the movement is adjusted to six positions rather than five like a standard chronometer. Again, this guarantees increased accuracy for use in the real world. The watch’s accuracy is rated at -3 to +5 a day, which again trumps COSC’s standard of -4 to +6. 

As well as acting the part, the Caliber 9SA5 of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is a pleasure to view through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Those of you familiar with Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family might notice that this is one of the biggest calibers in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio. 

It fills the entire case back, beautifully showing off its blued screws and 47 jewels through the scratch-resistant glass. You can see the new full balance bridge anchored onto both sides and the stunning striping on the bridges that flow with perfect synchrony.

A Luxury Leather Strap

A feature I was not expecting to enjoy so much on the Grand Seiko SLGH007 is the alligator leather strap. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet watch wearer, but after wearing this model for review, I have a totally new appreciation for high-quality leather like the one featured here. 

In this case, it’s a large, almost imposing black alligator leather band with an undeniably luxurious and expensive feel. The leather has been cleverly cut to show the scales symmetrically down the length. There’s also monochromatic stitching, a sheer cut profile on the edges, and a nice smooth calfskin lining embossed with the Grand Seiko logo. 

Something you’ll notice straight away about the leather strap here is the quality of the stitching. It’s all too common in the watchmaking world to find poorly put-together leather straps. This is not the case with the Grand Seiko SLGH007. The stitching is perfect and it’s clear a lot of time has been spent to make sure this strap not only looks the part but feels it too. 

As mentioned, the case of the SLGH007 isn’t the smallest, but the leather strap, once worn for a longer period of time, will no doubt soften up and make the watch even more wearable. Finally, we can’t talk about the strap without mentioning the buckle. I’ve always applauded Grand Seiko for their buckles, and again, the buckle here is crafted by Grand Seiko themselves. 

It’s engineered from the same 950 platinum as the case and has an innovative twin trigger release that opens the expansive folding mechanism. There’s also lovely blasted and polished finishing on the GS logo situated on the clasp. 

I appreciate that Grand Seiko has used platinum on the buckle here. It’s all too often watch brands use 18ct white gold on the strap of a platinum watch, simply because they already have white gold buckles in stock. So, well done Grand Seiko.

On-Wrist Experience

Wearing the Grand Seiko SLGH007 has been an absolute pleasure, and I’ll be honest, it wasn’t an easy watch to give back. I was a little dubious at first due to the sizing. It’s clear this is a little larger than your typical dress watch, with a 40mm width and 11.7mm height, and when you pair that with my relatively small five-and-a-half-inch wrists, it sounds like a recipe for disaster. 

But instead, it was the total opposite. Sure, it was a large watch for me, but when the level of craftsmanship is this impressive, I want something big and bold for everyone to see. 

One of my favorite features includes the finishing of the case. The contrast between the hairline brushing and the Zaratsu polishing is breathtaking and makes this watch sparkle almost like a gemstone. 

Equally, I couldn’t take my eyes away from the dial, and I found myself constantly distracted by the color-changing texture. It’s also nice knowing there’s a story behind the cedar-inspired finish, one that perfectly encapsulates the history of Grand Seiko. 

Finally, I have nothing bad to say about the Caliber 9SA5 movement. The entire mechanism ran as smoothly as expected during my time with the SLGH007. I noticed little to no deviations in accuracy, and the hacking seconds function was a nice touch when I needed to change the hour without compromising the seconds. The 80-hour power reserve was very useful, and I can imagine this being a perfect weekday work watch for many, keeping on time even when it’s off the wrist over the weekend.

Price & Availability

Somehow, despite being released three years ago, there are still some of the 140 limited edition pieces of the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 out there. There’s only a few, so keep that in mind if you’re interested! You can purchase it new today for $59,000 at Exquisite Timepieces, or you can find some pre-owned examples starting from around $45,000.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I can confidently say the Grand Seiko Heritage SLGH007 is a stunning watch, one that is a testament to Kintaro Hattori’s original dedication to perfection. It combines some of the world’s most luxurious materials with a unique historical narrative and a spectacularly finished cedar-like dial for the ultimate display of watchmaking excellence. The in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement is also a huge step up from previous 9S calibers, promising higher levels of precision and wear than before. 

As mentioned, wearing the SLGH007 was a delightful experience and I would seriously consider purchasing this dress watch for myself one day. It stands out on any wrist size but would best suit people with 6.75-inch wrists or above if a more compact dress watch is desired. One thing I found was that this watch is a conversation starter with watch collectors and normal folk alike. I had so many compliments on the design when I wore it, and even with my five-and-a-half-inch wrists, it was comfortable and wearable. 

My only real complaint is how it photographs. Trust me when I say the Grand Seiko SLGH007 looks even better in person. If you get a chance to see one at your local authorized retailer, please do so. It’s a must if you really want to appreciate the level of artistry involved – especially on the dial!

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