Category: News

For a watch aficionado like me (that sounds better than watch nerd, although the latter is more accurate), reviewing a stunning timepiece is a pleasure. When it comes to Grand Seiko watches, I’m almost giddy. 

This Japanese brand consistently produces watches with clean, classic lines, gorgeous dials, and accurate and reliable movements that rival anything that comes out of Switzerland.

The Grand Seiko SBGW279 Oruri is another of the brand’s triumphs. Named for a beautiful blue songbird that migrates to Japan at the start of every summer, the SBGW279 is elegant, classy, and a watch you want in your collection. Best of all, this U.S. special edition retails for less than $5,000. How do they do it? Let’s take a close look at this incredible timepiece.

History

Recent years have seen a trend toward smaller watches more in line with the case sizes of earlier times. Grand Seiko has been at the forefront of this trend, releasing a number of watches that are an homage to the first Grand Seiko watch. Released in 1960, the granddaddy of the brand was a three-hand dress watch with a 35 mm case and a brown leather strap.

With the return to smaller, more classic watches, Grand Seiko released the SBGW279 in 2022. Like its forebear, it is a basic three-hand dress watch with a smaller case and brown leather strap. Paired with a modern movement, this timepiece carries the elegance of the earlier period with the reliability and accuracy of a modern watch.

Case

The classic round case is stainless steel and measures 37.3 mm with a lug-to-lug of 44.3 mm and a slim thickness of 11.6 mm. This is significantly smaller than the 40-42 mm watches that make up most of my collection, but it does look good on my average 7.25-inch wrist. 

The smaller size only adds to the class, and the watch will easily slide under the cuffs of the dress shirts you will be wearing. The design of this watch is very well thought-out, and its dimensions reflect that.

The case has brushed and polished surfaces using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu technique. The contrast between the surfaces adds depth and makes the case stand out in the subtle way you want a dress watch to.

The finishing creates clean lines on the lugs, adding to the elegant good looks. With Grand Seiko, small details matter and show in every watch they craft.

A box-shaped double-domed sapphire crystal makes up a good part of the thickness and protects the dial while adding to the classic lines. The exhibition case back is also covered by a sapphire crystal. The scratch resistance of the material and the anti-reflective coating ensure that you will always get a good look at the dial and movement.

The crown is a standard push-pull, which is all you need for a dress watch. It’s a bit larger in size but still pairs nicely with the aesthetic of the case, which makes it a little easier to wind. The water resistance is 30 meters, which is enough to protect your timepiece if you get caught in the rain, but this is strictly a dry land watch. Unless you’re dating a mermaid, you don’t need a dress watch underwater anyway.

Dial

I am a card-carrying member of the “It’s all about the dial” club of watch lovers. It’s where you look most of the time and the part of the watch that first catches the eye. The SBGW279 gets high marks for its dial design.

The Japanese have a reverence for nature, and the deep blue color of the dial matches the feathers of the watch’s namesake songbird. The sunray finish reacts beautifully with varying light levels, and you may almost think you have multiple dials. I have a thing for blue watches, and this is one of the nicest I have ever seen.

The stainless steel applied indices are baton-style with double batons at three, six, nine, and 12 o’clock. Matched with the stainless dauphine handset, these Zaratsu polished features contrast the dial beautifully. The Grand Seiko name and logo applied at 12 o’clock is the finishing touch on this masterpiece of a dial.

The minimalist design is exactly what you want in a high-end dress watch. It keeps excellent time and looks fantastic while doing so. It’s what we’ve all come to expect from Grand Seiko.

Movement

Grand Seiko has a great reputation for its movements that are made in-house, and the SBGW279 does not disappoint. The watch is powered by the 9S64 caliber movement. The heart of the timepiece is hand-assembled by expert craftspeople and is a manual wind, but with a very generous 72-hour power reserve, you won’t have to wind it that often. 

If you take it off Friday after work, it will still be running Monday morning. Even when you do have to wind it, it’s a great opportunity to bond with this incredible watch. I honestly enjoy looking at the dial while winding.

The movement is rated at +10 to -1 seconds per day. Each watch is adjusted at six different points for accuracy that rivals COSC standards. Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can get a good look at the movement and show it to your friends. 

It’s beautifully finished with polished and brushed surfaces, the Grand Seiko name and logo, and the movement specs in gold. Leave it to Grand Seiko to put as much thought into the appearance of the movement as they did in the dial. 

Straps

The Oruri comes with a standard strap, which is a beauty. Hand-made from crocodile leather, the brown color is a stunning contrast to the dial and makes the watch pop. 

The strap’s underside is soft and wraps nicely around the wrist, making for a comfortable wearing experience. Brown and blue complement each other perfectly. Put on a navy blue suit with a brown belt and shoes and this watch, and you will be the best-dressed person in the room.

The strap features stitching, which is contrary to most high-end Grand Seiko straps, which are stitchless. If you prefer a strap without stitches, it’s easy enough to switch out the strap, thanks to the drilled lugs.

On-Wrist Experience

Now, let’s move on to what you really want to know. What’s it like to wear the Grand Seiko SBGW279? I am happy to report it is a pleasurable experience. With its compact case, it feels light and the strap holds the watch securely but comfortably on the wrist.

As to styling the watch with your outfits, naturally, as a classic dress watch, you’ll wear it with dressier outfits from smart casual to more formal. With the blue dial, you’ll immediately think of blue shirts. 

However, as I said earlier, I am partial to blue dials, and one of the things I love about them is that darker blues are almost neutral. This dial will work with gray, white, or black shirts and will set up a nice contrast with pinks or hot colors. Thanks to the brown strap, it can also work with earth tones.

I have lots of fun putting together outfits with the Oruri, and it gives me plenty of options. The 37.3 mm case slides easily under any cuff. It does suit most small and average-sized wrists, but if your wrist is approaching 8 inches, you may find it a bit too small for your taste. 

The SBGW279 is not one of those blingy, ostentatious watches that I hate. But when someone does notice it, they will know at a glance that you are a person of style and taste. This can honestly boost your confidence.

Price & Availability

If you are interested (and why wouldn’t you be?) and considering buying a Grand Seiko SBGW279 Oruri, you can pick one up at a Grand Seiko boutique or on the brand’s website. 

A Grand Seiko authorized dealer is an ideal place to purchase this gorgeous timepiece. Exquisite Timepieces is a Grand Seiko AD. You can visit our Naples, FL boutique or purchase an Oruri on our website. By purchasing from an AD, you will get Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. 

Another great thing about Grand Seiko watches is the price, which is far less than most luxury brands. A brand-new SBGW279 can be yours for just $4,600. If you want to go preowned, you can pick one up in the range of $3,500-$3,800.

Conclusion

Grand Seiko launched its first watch in 1960. It was a classic dress watch, and over the decades, the brand has continued to innovate and release some truly stunning watches. The SBGW279 Oruri is a tribute to that original timepiece with a modern movement. Along with the other tribute special editions, it further boosts the brand’s already sterling reputation.

Its unique and classic design, along with its accuracy and build quality, make this a watch that every lover of horology should have in their collection. When you put it on, the smile on your face will let you know that the Oruri is the bluebird of happiness.

You’ve seen it before: a luxury dive watch with a black rotating bezel, healthy amounts of lume for superior nighttime visibility, a rugged bracelet with on-the-fly adjustment, robust water resistance, shock absorption, and anti-magnetic properties. When you close your eyes and think of such a watch, you likely see a crown logo and aftermarket pricing that is greater than the watch’s MSRP. 

This isn’t your father’s dive watch we’re going to talk about here. This is the Grand Seiko SBGA463.

History

Forged in the land of the rising sun, in the legendary Shinshu Watch Studio, surrounded by the Jonen and Hotaka mountain ranges, the SBGA463 was first introduced in 2021. And though Grand Seiko has over half a century of history and heritage to draw on, it wasn’t until 2008 that they released their first dive watches: the SBGA029 in stainless steel and the SBGA031 in titanium. 

A quick Google search will show that the newly updated SBGA463 is inspired by these original releases, both stylistically and technologically. They feature the same large dimensions, case material (titanium), and Spring Drive movement (9R65). If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. That’s precisely the mantra Grand Seiko has used for the new SBGA463, and they’ve certainly executed it.

Case

Big. Bold. A watch that is likely to grab the attention of bystanders, the SBGA463 has a 44mm diameter, with a thickness of 14mm, and a lug-to-lug of 50mm. I know that, based on today’s preferences for “smaller” and “vintage inspired” pieces, this may seem jumbo-sized. 

But, in actuality, this is a very wearable watch, especially when considering what it’s meant for: a mechanical tool watch designed for diving and rugged adventures. 

The fact that it’s crafted from high-intensity titanium—offering greater corrosion resistance and durability—actually helps the watch’s wearability. It’s all in the weight savings; being 30% lighter than stainless steel doesn’t mean it wears 30% smaller, but for a watch this size, I have to admit that I often forgot it was on my wrist when wearing it for extended periods of time. Kudos to Grand Seiko for continuing to be innovative in case materials and construction.

And, the case offers Grand Seiko’s famed Zaratsu polishing on the side of the case and drilled lug edges, with a nice brushed finish on the inside of the lugs for superior light-play. Being a dive watch, of course, Grand Seiko includes a screw-down crown nicely engraved with the GS logo and 200m of water resistance. 

The area around the crown has been engineered to ensure that residue from dirt, sand, or seawater can be easily washed off. Grand Seiko doesn’t specify if the bezel insert is ceramic or aluminum, but upon wearing and seeing the watch in the flesh, I believe it to be aluminum, which shouldn’t be a deal breaker for most. Finally, a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inside offers industry-leading visibility and durability.

Dial

Grand Seiko dials are the stuff of legends. When the Snowflake first came out, it set the entire industry on notice. There are no fancy patterns or textures to this dial; however, it doesn’t take away from the subtle beauty of it. If I had to describe the dial, I’d say it’s an “inky-black,” which is perfect for a dive watch.

The dial markers are circular and filled with Lumbrite, though the 12, 3, 6, and 9 offer differently shaped markers. The hour and minute hands have a broad, sharp profile that enhances legibility and has a brushed finish. 

The second hand is more slender and glides smoothly due to the Spring Drive movement. A date is clearly visible at the 3 o’clock position, and it’s worth noting that, as in all things Grand Seiko, it’s all about attention to detail. 

A trained artisan meticulously polishes the smallest details within the dial: the metal borders surrounding the date window, each dial marker, and even the power reserve indicator. 

No, no—don’t roll your eyes. I actually adore the power reserve indicator, but I know some people don’t love them. They are uniquely Grand Seiko, and I think it fits their design language nicely, but that’s me.

Movement

Some watch snubs wrinkle their noses in abject disgust at the prospect of spending thousands of dollars on a quartz watch. They argue that the intricacy of a mechanical watch, along with the craftsmanship and history, make it the “only” option for a luxury purchase. I myself have no problem with quartz watches, but what if I told you that the best of both worlds was available in one mesmerizing package?

Enter the 9R65 Spring Drive movement, the beating heart of the SBGA463. This is an in-house movement, combining both quartz and mechanical movement technology into something entirely unique to Grand Seiko. Spring Drive uses a mechanical mainspring for power but regulates time with a quartz crystal and an electromagnetic brake. 

This unique system creates a smooth, continuous movement of the second hand, combining the benefits of both mechanical and quartz technologies. These watches are super accurate, to the tune of +/-15 seconds per month—unparalleled accuracy in the watch industry. The movement also features a robust 72 hours of power reserve! 

Keep in mind that in today’s day and age, many manufacturers claim to use “in-house” movements, but their movements are just slightly modified ETA or Selita movements, and there is nothing wrong with third-party movements. 

Most Swiss watches under $3000 feature these movements, and they are accurate, dependable, and offer long-term repairability. It’s always nice, however, to know that you purchased a luxury watch with a movement specifically made for that watch, offering the latest and greatest in horological technology.

Straps

In my years covering the watch industry, I’ve heard it often repeated that Grand Seiko bracelets aren’t up to par, especially when considering their lack of micro-adjustment. I’ve debunked this claim as fictitious in previous reviews of the brand. 

Grand Seiko’s bracelets are woefully underrated. Their finishing matches or beats competitors in their price range, and the SBGA463 has the best Grand Seiko bracelet I’ve ever tried, offering four micro-adjustment holes on its titanium clasp.

The entire bracelet is made from titanium, with a finishing that offers variations between brushed and polished details. Like every GS bracelet, it is adjusted via push pins and has a lug width of 22mm—a nice touch, considering odd-numbered lug widths made it so much more difficult to purchase aftermarket straps. 

Another touch that Grand Seiko continues to offer on most of its sportier models is the inclusion of drilled lugs. You don’t have to worry about scratching your beautiful investment anymore or going to an AD just to change your watch strap.

On-Wrist Experience

There it was, lying on a beautiful blue felt mat, winking at me with its devilishly good looks.

“This is a 44?” I asked, glancing down at my slender wrists nervously. I had my doubts that the SBGA463 would fit me properly.

“Yes, 44mm,” the saleswoman responded, opening the clasp and helping me put the watch on.

I remember the first thoughts that came to my mind: wow, this is light. She urged me to walk around for a bit to get a proper feel for the watch. I did, and the longer I spent with it, the more I realized that the lightness of the watch really helped the wearing experience. 

I dare say this wore like a 42mm watch. The bracelet was super comfortable, with great articulation, easily conforming to the curves of my wrist. There was no lug overhang, not on my 6.75-inch wrist.

I left the boutique pleasantly surprised. People are so quick to go down the rabbit hole that is the online watch community, where things like lug-to-lug and case diameter reign supreme. 

Listen, I am as guilty as the rest, but it’s always important to try a watch on, especially if you like the looks. You remember the old saying: Don’t judge a book by its cover. I was guilty of judging the SBGA463 by its dimensions, but I was wrong. This is a watch that will fit the vast majority of wrists out there, from 6 inches up to infinity!

Price & Availability

The SBGA463 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $7,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

I spent some time online searching for pre-owned examples of the SBGA463. There are not many for sale, and they go for about $5500-6000 on the pre-owned market. Are the savings worth it? It all depends on your preferences. 

And remember, purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

Whether you are searching for a professional diver to take on your next deep sea exploration or you need a luxurious desk diver that can be dressed up or down, the Grand Seiko SBGA463 is more than deserving of your consideration. It’s easy to dress up or down due to the subtle yet beautiful black dial. 

You can lug this around all day without feeling tired, too. Some larger watches made from stainless steel can really weigh you down, but Grand Seiko’s proprietary high-intensity titanium is not only 30% lighter than comparable stainless steel, but it also offers superior durability and scratch resistance. 

When considering a luxury watch purchase, we often take the “safe” route, purchasing a watch that is easily recognizable by watch nerds and civilians alike. You can complete the sentence with any number of safe brands: You buy a _____ to impress others; you buy a Grand Seiko to impress yourself.

Do yourself a favor. Consider buying this tremendous watch, or any Grand Seiko for that matter. Don’t impress others—impress yourself. 

Attuning themselves to the authenticity of the changing seasons, Grand Seiko has made it their goal to speak with a voice that embodies the unwavering beauty of Japanese nature. Although the seasons may change, there is no reason we can’t celebrate the turning of the leaves and the chill of the air. 

Grand Seiko extends an invitation to the autumn weather with the SBGW285, aka the Byōka, which is named–quite literally–after a period when the late summer months begin to shift into autumn. The aesthetic of this piece mimics that change of season. The deep, green dial that you will come to learn about references the end of summer, a time when Japan’s vegetation is at its ripest. 

In Shigushuiki, where this watch was made, the summer is short, and the transition occurs at the end of August with early signs of autumn in the air. At this time, the leaves on the trees grow increasingly dark, which is what this style represents. The SBGW285 captures this change perfectly on your wrist, its favorable dark colors etching themselves in your mind so that every time you look down, you’re reminded of this beautiful time of the year. 

While we explore the intricate mechanics and the unique style of luxury that shrouds this piece, we will learn all about its deep symbolism and significance to Japanese culture, putting into perspective just how much passion Seiko pours into every watch they create. 

History

The Elegance Collection has the honor of being the home of the first-ever Grand Seiko timepiece. Since 1960, the company has been soaring, producing works of art that seemingly grow in quality with each release. 

In 2022, the SBGW285 was a welcome addition to the elegance collection, joining the ranks of legendary pieces that serve as a foundation for the entire company. 

Case

This vintage-style case will please those of you who prefer a smaller build, measuring in at a very compact 37.3mm diameter, 44.3mm lug-to-lug, and 11.7mm thickness. Taking inspiration from the original Grand Seiko watch from 1960, this stainless steel case is complete with mirror-polished finishing, giving the watch an authentic and elegant character that stays true to the company’s roots. 

The lugs are arched, giving it a curvy texture that complements the rounded case profile. The push-pull crown jets out from the side of the case, only offering 30m of water resistance, which is acceptable given the dressier nature of the watch; you’re not going to be diving in swimming pools with it on. I would complain, however, that the crown is a little too bulky compared to the slim dimensions of the rest of the watch. 

A see-through case back with 6 screws allows you to view the 9S64 manual winding movement, serving as the heart of the piece that powers each mechanical movement, giving it that flawless Grand Seiko feel. Sitting smooth and well-furnished, the shallow bezel resides below the elevated sapphire crystal, a beautiful, ascended double-dome that makes up most of the watch’s thickness. 

The contrast between the sapphire crystal’s heightened, bubble-like features and the bezel’s subtler nature highlights the entire case, giving it a unique flare that immediately catches the eye. 

With the majority of the thickness coming from the crystal, the rest of the case is given the privilege of being a little slimmer than we’re used to, which (depending on your taste) could be a make-or-break feature when choosing a luxury watch to purchase. 

Dial

Fitting with the “end of summer” symbolism, the Byōka’s dial is a rich, dark green that can appear almost black under certain lighting conditions. As summertime comes to a close, the winds may begin to develop a chill, but the scenery around you is still green and full of life. 

This dial embraces the change of seasons and displays what makes summer so beautiful. The dial is laced with a frosted texture pattern that blends nicely with the hand-finished indices’ polished surfaces. It is inspired by the Japanese kirazuri painting technique, which involves adding glittering mica flakes to print, resulting in a glittering dynamic surface. 

The kirazuri texture is designed to invoke the feeling of dark green leaves that begin to fall at the end of summer. In my opinion, the frosted texture gives the appearance of some foreign exotic material, like a high-quality piece of leather, that gives the watch a look of its own. 

When you combine that with the slender, stainless steel indices, it all makes for a luxurious recipe that immediately attracts the eye, not to mention the flawlessly crafted hands that round out the entire look, sweeping across the dial in an elegant motion. 

The Grand Seiko logo is very shallow and subtle, not too distracting but adding another aesthetic layer to the dial. This piece lacks a date window, which–to some–encourages the undeniable beauty of a minimalistic look, while others will miss the practicality of always knowing the date with a glance at their wrist. 

In my opinion, pieces like these that prioritize luxury greatly benefit from the entire “less is more” idea. Crowding a dial can sometimes harm a piece’s overall appearance, distracting us so much that we forget to embrace the beauty of the craftsmanship. The SBGW285 benefits from a minimalistic look, and the simple elegance of the dial breathes life into the entire piece. 

Movement

The hand-wound movement is powered by the Caliber 9S64, another testimony to the undeniable simplicity this watch radiates. It’s very well-decorated and adjusted at six different points to ensure extreme accuracy, which puts it a step above COSC. With a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day, the six different positions of measurement guarantee that you are getting the most accurate reading possible. 

The 72-hour power reserve makes this one of the most practical office watches. You can take it off to go home on the weekend, and it’ll still be the envy of all your coworkers on Monday morning when you put it back on. The see-through case-back allows for a satisfying view of the 9S64, allowing you to observe all its intricacy as it tirelessly works to provide a technologically sound experience, combining high-end technology with Seiko’s stand-out taste for perfect craftsmanship. 

Manual movements are ideal for this style of watch, as they fit the simplistic tone that the SBGW285 aims to embody, but don’t get anything confused, while a manual movement may not compare to the powerhouse Spring Drive, the Caliber 9S64 packs a punch of its own incorporating genius precision that every Seiko watchmaker is equipped with. 

Straps

The deep, forest-green alligator straps with a beautiful tight grain set this watch apart, giving it its unique look. Equipped with a glossy finish, the strap shimmers in the light and looks almost glazed, with an underlying style that is only revealed when exposed to certain lighting. 

Again, incorporating the idea that summer is coming to an end, the richness of the straps accompany the fine-tuned dial and case, rounding out the piece in perfect symbolism. The calfskin leather on the bottom perfectly complements the dial and is one of the most comfortable options for wristwear. 

Lightweight and smooth to the touch, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist, and the pattern on the leather adds another layer of depth. The pin buckle with the vintage Grand Seiko logo is ideal for a vintage-inspired dress watch. While the drilled lugs make it easy to change straps, the 19mm lug width makes it difficult to find ones that will fit. 

But one of the watch’s most notable features is the strap’s high-quality leather that perfectly matches the rest of the watch, so if you want to change the house strap, you’re going to have trouble finding something that can top it. 

On Wrist Experience

The SBGW285 is a true, classic dress watch suitable for men and women alike. Its sleek, curvy build gives it a cleaner aesthetic due to the fact that it isn’t as bulky. The compact size and shape mean that anyone with a 5.5-inch wrist and above can wear it. However, it would start to look small on those with a 7.5-inch wrist or larger. People crave dress watches because they are a suitable match with any formal attire. 

They are an easy way to enhance your entire look, and the deep green dial and strap will go perfectly with any formal dresswear you have in mind. Paired with the fact that the watch is thin enough to slide under any dress cuff, I can think of no better watch that better suits the needs of those who prioritize style. 90% of the time, the green dial will appear black while it is on your wrist. 

While indoors, the lighting will make the watch appear much darker than it actually is. Whether that is your preference or not is up to you, but outside, under the right lighting conditions, the dial will explode, displaying the dark green to full effect. 

I personally like how the watch can take different shapes depending on the lighting conditions, but again, if that is not your preference, you may not enjoy this watch as much as others will. The strap also comes alive while on the wrist. 

The glistening glaze of the smooth, green leather can be quite reflective and vibrant when exposed to certain lights and quite dormant and reclusive when exposed to others. Regardless of the light, however, the watch still compliments the dial and case perfectly while also being easy to adjust and incredibly comfortable. 

My favorite part of the watch is how Grand Seiko weaved the symbolistic changing of seasons into their piece. The dark green looks beautiful in and of itself, but once you know what it represents, it makes the color all the more impactful. Pieces like this make us appreciate the turn of the seasons. 

Whether we are ready for it or not, change is inevitable. Grand Seiko encourages us to focus on the beauty of change and the impact it can have on us and everyone around us. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGW285 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGW285 costs can be picked up for $4,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 3-4k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

Each passing season, Seiko gives us new reasons to appreciate their fine-tuned craftsmanship and unmistakable attention to detail. We’ve seen time and time again that nature is a prevalent theme in every piece Seiko releases. In Shizukuishi–where the watches are made–Grand Seiko’s studio is tucked away in a quiet little forest in northern Japan. 

With the stunning beauty of Japanese nature all around them, it would make sense that the inspiration for these pieces would come from simply looking out the window. Nature is powerful, and the unmistakable impact it has had on the craftsmen who forge these stunning pieces cannot be stated enough. 

Inspiration is passed down the line, as one craftsman inspires another, but Grand Seiko reminds us that the greatest inspiration of all comes from right outside our front door. I love symbolistic pieces that focus on the natural beauty in the world. 

Seiko encourages us to never stop looking for this natural beauty because it’s up to us to preserve the art that can be found in the simplest of things. Overall, great piece. A simple take on an elegant manual dress watch that packs its own unique punch. If you’re into green and looking for something comfortable and stylish above all else, this is the perfect piece.

It feels like watches have been around forever, especially with everyone’s growing love of vintage designs of late. But interestingly, watches aren’t as old as we might think. Compared to so many other human inventions, watches are a relatively recent addition. 

Believe it or not, wristwatches have only been worn for around 100 years. And before that, timekeeping was a little more… creative. 

But how did we go from tracking the time using sundials to wearing sleek, high-precision instruments on our wrists? The history of watches is more fascinating than you might think, with roots that stretch back to humanity’s earliest attempts to measure time. 

From the first mechanical clocks in the 14th century to the miniaturization that allowed for pocket watches, and finally, the wristwatches that became popular in the 20th century, each step of this evolution tells a story of innovation and clever craftsmanship. 

Today, I’ll be taking a closer look at the history of watchmaking, going right back to the beginning to see how it all got started. So, if you’ve just looked down at your wrist and randomly asked yourself when watches were invented, I’ve got you. 

When Was The First Watch Made?

Early humans weren’t exactly checking their watches to make appointments or arrive on time for work like we do. Instead, they typically looked up to the sky and judged the time of day based on where the sun was. It’s why some of the earliest timekeeping instruments were things like the sundial, which goes all the way back to the ancient Egyptians. 

They used the sun’s shadow to mark the passage of time during the day. There were also water clocks (also known as clepsydra), which the Greeks and Chinese used to track time by the steady flow of water. And let’s not forget the trusty hourglass, which appeared in medieval Europe. But more on these devices shortly.

Fast forward to the invention of mechanical clocks, and things start to look a little more familiar. One big leap came in the 17th century with the invention of the pendulum clock by Dutch scientist Christian Huygens. 

This was a major breakthrough because pendulums were way more accurate than anything people had before. But, as cool as pendulum clocks were, they weren’t exactly portable!

Enter Peter Henlein, a German locksmith and clockmaker from the 15th century, who is often credited as the inventor of the first “watch.” Henlein’s creations were called “clock-watches,” and they were small enough to be carried on the body, usually in a pocket, hence the name pocket watch. 

These early pocket watches, made in the 1500s, were the first step toward timekeeping becoming a personal accessory. The thing is, they were luxury items back then, reserved for the rich and fancy. It wasn’t until the late 18th century when the Industrial Revolution kicked in, that pocket watches became more affordable for the general public.

But alas, pocket watches weren’t as handy as some people would have liked. They had to be hung from clothing, usually on a chain, and often required two hands to use—one to hold the watch and the other to open the cover or read the time. 

As people’s lives became busier and more fast-paced, especially during wartime, a more practical solution was needed. So what about a pocket watch… but strapped to the wrist?

When Was The First Wristwatch Created?

It’s argued that the original inventor of the first wristwatch was Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss watchmaker who, in 1810, crafted the very first timepiece designed to be worn on the wrist for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples. 

This wristwatch, however, was quite different from the wristwatches we know today. It was an ornate, delicate piece made for royalty. Truthfully, it was more of a piece of jewelry than a timekeeper.

For much of the 19th century, wristwatches were considered a luxury item and were mainly worn by women. Men, on the other hand, stuck to their trusty pocket watches, which were seen as more masculine and accurate. 

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that wristwatches became more popular, especially for men. World War I played a significant role in this shift, as soldiers needed to quickly check the time in battle without fumbling with a pocket watch. This practicality led to wristwatches being widely adopted by the military and, soon after, by the general public.

The Evolution of Watchmaking 

As we mentioned, Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the first wristwatch in 1810, but it took some time for these designs to catch on. After World War I, however, wristwatches became the norm, and watchmakers around the world quickly followed suit, designing their own variations. With more brands jumping into the market, competition drove rapid innovation, leading to significant technological advancements. 

One of the biggest innovations came in the early 20th century with the development of automatic movements. In 1923, John Harwood created the first self-winding wristwatch, which used the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist to keep the watch powered without the need for manual winding. 

This was a game-changer for watch wearers since, previously, watches had to be manually wounded by hand. Now, as long as they were never taken off the wrist, they would power indefinitely. 

Then came the quartz revolution. In 1969, Japanese watchmaker Seiko introduced the first quartz wristwatch, which used an electronic oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal. Quartz movements were far more accurate than mechanical ones and much cheaper to produce, leading to the widespread availability of affordable watches. 

This innovation rocked the watchmaking industry for quite some time, and for a short while, it was thought that mechanical movements were gone for good. Thankfully, that wasn’t quite the case! It seems watch wearers now appreciate the precision of quartz and the traditional beauty of mechanical timepieces. 

Of course, today, we’re also in the age of smartwatches. With digital displays, fitness tracking, and even the ability to make calls and send texts, these gadgets prove just how far we’ve come from the sundials of Egyptian times.

How Did People Track Time in the Past?

It’s widely believed that the world’s first timekeeping device was the sundial, with evidence suggesting it was used as far back as ancient Egypt in 1500 BCE. Yes, that’s a long, long time ago. 

For it to work, the Egyptians would place a vertical stick, known as a gnomon, in the ground and observe the shadow it cast to determine the time of day based on the sun’s position. 

As the sun moved across the sky, the shadow shifted, giving a rough estimate of the hour. Sundials were widely used in ancient Greece and Rome as well, but they only worked during daylight hours and, of course, required a sunny day. 

To address the limitations of sundials, ancient civilizations like the Greeks and Chinese developed the water clock, also called a clepsydra. The water clock used the steady flow of water from one container to another to measure the passage of time. 

These clocks were used as early as 4000 BCE in Babylon and Egypt. The Greeks later improved the design, adding gears and scales to make them more accurate. While they could be used during the day and night, they were still prone to inaccuracy due to temperature variations affecting the flow of water. 

Then came the hourglass, also known as a sandglass. This timekeeping device emerged in medieval Europe, though its exact year of invention is unclear. It likely appeared in the 8th century and became popular by the 14th century. 

Hourglasses work by allowing sand to flow from one bulb to another at a steady rate, measuring specific increments of time. Unlike sundials and water clocks, hourglasses were portable and more reliable, but they had to be manually reset after each use.

Conclusion

Timekeeping has come a long way from ancient sundials and water clocks. It was the brilliant Christian Huygens who, in 1656, created the pendulum clock, marking a huge leap in timekeeping accuracy. 

Then, in the early 19th century, master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first wristwatch, setting the stage for the stylish and practical timepieces we love and wear today. From tracking the sun to wearing time on our wrists, it’s fascinating to see how our need to measure time has shaped history. I wonder what will come next…

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is arguably one of the Japanese watchmaker’s most popular and iconic models. It’s a watch that embodies the elegance and craftsmanship that Grand Seiko is renowned for, featuring a charming dial design that mimics the beauty of freshly fallen snow. However, due to its high craftsmanship and limited availability, the Grand Seiko Snowflake is not as easily accessible as watch enthusiasts would like. 

And yet, a watch that bears a striking resemblance to the essence of the Snowflake, yet one that doesn’t carry its prestigious nickname, is the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269. 

This model showcases an equally refined aesthetic, enhanced functionality, and a snow-inspired dial texture, making it an appealing alternative for those seeking the sophistication of the Grand Seiko Snowflake without the scarcity associated with it.

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT Collection

For as long as I’ve been following the work of Grand Seiko, nature has played a significant role in their designs. There’s something rather beautiful about the thought of Grand Seiko designers simply looking out the windows of the company’s manufacturing facilities and drawing inspiration from the weather and flora found right outside their windows. 

The Grand Seiko Snowflake has always epitomized the brand’s love of nature, beautifully mirroring the purity of freshly fallen snow in the mountains surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi. 

Other popular models worthy of mention are the Grand Seiko White Birch Shirakaba SLGH005, which has a breathtaking dial inspired by the texture and color of the birch trees found outside their studio, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Omiwatari” SBGY007, which mimics the texture of Lake Susa when its water freezes during the winter. 

It’s clear that their connection to nature has become a signature aspect of the brand, leading to the creation of numerous models inspired by the textures and colors found in the natural world. 

More recently, Grand Seiko introduced the Four Seasons Collection, which again cements their commitment to nature-inspired design. The non-limited series draws inspiration from the different colors of Japan’s changing seasons. 

Whereas we simply measure the seasons in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, in Japanese culture, they divide the year into 24 smaller segments known as sekki, with each of the watches in the Four Seasons collection representing one of these sekki. 

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons collection was first introduced in 2019 and featured a quartet of time-and-date-only models with colorful and textured dials inspired by “Taisetsu”, the deep snow of winter, “Shunbun”, the vernal equinox, “Rikka”, early summer and “Shubun”, the autumnal equinox. 

Shortly after, Grand Seiko expanded the series further by adding more dial colors and additional GMT complication into this mix. And so, in 2021, the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection was born. 

Once again, the watches in this collection represent four different sekki. The line-up includes the Hi-Beat 36000 powered “Shunbun” SBGJ251 and “Shosho SBGJ249, and two Spring Drive-powered watches called “Kanro” SBGE271 & “Toji” SBGE269. 

It’s the latter that I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this week, and with a dial inspired by the winter solstice, I have forgiven myself for originally thinking this was a Grand Seiko Snowflake when I first opened the box.

A Crisp-As-Snow Steel Case

Like all the models in the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection, the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is slightly based on the original 62GS case from the 1960s. Much like the original, we have a soft, curved silhouette with a gently sloping bezel and refined lugs that beautifully highlight the watch’s polished surfaces. 

But as you’ll have probably noticed, the dimensions of this watch are a little more modern, coming in at 40.2mm wide and with a thickness of 14mm. It’s a well-sized watch that will suit most wrists. The lug-to-lug is 48.5mm, and if you count the end links, I measured it sitting at 51.2mm across. 

As for finishing, no expense is spared as usual from Grand Seiko. Much of the case is polished using a technique the Japanese watch brand calls Zaratsu polishing. It involves holding the stainless steel surface against a spinning tin plate using just the right amount of pressure and angle to create these beautiful mirror-like finishes. 

It’s a technique that takes about three years to learn, ensuring that only the most skilled artisans, known as Takumi, are entrusted with this meticulous process. It’s also a process typically reserved for small movement parts, so seeing it on a macro scale across an entire case is truly exceptional. Getting a fully hand-finished watch at this price is not a common sight. 

A few smaller portions of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s case are brushed, creating a visual of light play and contrasts. Other than its finishing, the most visually noticeable part of the case is the sapphire crystal glass. 

It’s one that is dramatically domed, adding to the watch’s 1960s-inspired heritage. It’s also this that adds to the larger 14mm thickness. Despite giving off the appearance of vintage plexiglass, the material is super scratch-resistant and treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for legibility. Ultimately, you get the period feel without any of the compromises that come with real vintage watches. 

Completing the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s retro personality is the signed crown placed at 3 o’clock. Not quite an onion crown, but still relatively prominent in size and boasting a slightly domed and fully knurled exterior, it adds to the watch’s vintage charm while ensuring functionality. This screw-in crown enhances the watch’s water resistance, providing an impressive 100 meters of protection against the elements.

A Winter Solstice Dial

Easily, my favorite part of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is the dial. Nicknamed “Toji” after one of Japan’s twenty-four sekki that marks the winter solstice, the hammered silvered white texture has a beautiful, almost random grain inspired by the texture and color of snow as it shines in the sunlight of the winter solstice. 

It’s one of those dials you really need to see in person to appreciate, and no matter how hard I try, it’s impossible for me to find the words to describe its beauty accurately. 

The texture is larger and deeper than those seen on the popular Grand Seiko Snowflake watches but still has the same ethereal quality that instantly catches your eye. I love it, and I urge anyone reading this remotely tempted by its finish to go see this at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. 

For the hands and markers, Grand Seiko has once again elected hand-finishing for all the hardware. The dauphine-styled hour and minute hands are beautifully sharp with a combination of brushed and polished finishing, much like each hour marker, which is faceted with polished faces and brushed exteriors.

In contrast, the GMT hand is finished in a wonderful shade of rose gold to evoke the last rays of an evening sun. It’s a beautiful pop of color against an otherwise monochromatic dial and adds a touch of warmth and elegance to the overall aesthetic. We have the same color marking the GMT text at 6 o’clock, further tying together the dial’s design elements. 

The dial is also home to a 72-hour power reserve indicator, but Grand Seiko has ingeniously chosen to print it onto the dial’s textured surface rather than opting for a sunken scale. This decision preserves the watch’s clean lines and enhances the visual depth, allowing the textured background to play a prominent role in the overall design. 

The result is a more concise and subtle look that seamlessly integrates all the features without overwhelming the eye. It also brings the power reserve indicator in line with the printed black railway track found around the dial’s circumference. 

Another clever addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s dial is the 24-hour scale. 

Compared to the SBGJ249 and SBGJ251 models in the same collection, the 24-hour markers have been moved to the minute track to help the dial breathe a bit more and not feel cluttered. We’re also treated to a box-shaped date window positioned at 3 o’clock and the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

Alongside a completely hand-finished case and dial, we also have a movement that’s been built, tuned, and – when necessary – serviced entirely in-house by Grand Seiko. The movement in question is the Caliber 9R66, an automatic winding Spring Drive movement that represents one of Grand Seiko’s most innovative achievements. 

The Spring Drive combines the precision of a quartz movement with the mechanical beauty of a traditional automatic movement. Unlike conventional mechanical movements, which rely on a balance wheel and escapement, the Spring Drive caliber uses a unique “tri-synchro regulator” system. 

This regulates the movement by using a mainspring for power, just like a mechanical watch, but instead of an escapement, it uses an electromagnetic brake that works with a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping. 

This allows for incredible accuracy, with a deviation of only +/-1 seconds per day or +/- 15 seconds per month. It also delivers the signature smooth, gliding seconds hand that is famously a hallmark of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches. 

The Caliber 9R66 also features a GMT complication, allowing for the tracking of a second timezone, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. There’s also a hacking seconds function, 30 jewels, and manual winding capability should you wish to see the power reserve indicator operate before your eyes. 

Turning the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch around, and you can admire the Spring Drive movement for yourself, including its handsomely striped oscillating rotor and bridges.

A Hybrid Bracelet

Completing the exterior of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is a classic full stainless steel bracelet. Its design is almost like a hybrid of a dress and sports bracelet. It has the beautiful, rolled flanks and the polished intermediates of a dress bracelet but then a sturdy three-row link architecture similarly styled to the Rolex Oyster bracelet. 

The surface of each link is brushed in the same direction as the bracelet falls, leading down towards a single-fold deployment clasp with twin trigger release. 

Sadly, the bracelet doesn’t come with any micro-adjustment, but we are given two half-links on either side to get a near-perfect fit. There’s also screw links to make adjustments easier and drilled lugs, so should you wish to swap out the strap for something different, that won’t be too much of a task. That said, Grand Seiko has elected a lug width of 19mm, which is a little awkward for finding replacement watch bands.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is easily one of those “throw-on-and-go” watches. Its dimensions make it very wearable across a wide variety of wrist sizes. I’d recommend it for anyone with wrists as small as six inches and as large as eight inches. 

But please, if you don’t fall within that range, don’t let it put you off. If you have smaller wrists but love the oversized look, or if you have larger wrists and appreciate a more vintage vibe, this watch could still work beautifully for you. Plus, you can always swap out the metal bracelet for a leather strap to tone down its presence and make it feel a bit more understated. 

It is a thick watch, measuring 14mm tall, primarily due to the domed sapphire crystal. Unfortunately, this means it may not slide easily under the cuff of a dress shirt unless the cuffs are loose. Instead, it gives off more of a daily-beater or sports watch vibe, though it can still be worn for dressier occasions, thanks to that brilliant textured dial.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch retails brand new for $6,000. We always recommend purchasing your Grand Seiko watches through one of the brand’s authorized retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. 

This way, you can sport your new timepiece knowing it’s the real deal and it’s arrived with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find this model on the second-hand market for around $4,500 if you’re working with a smaller budget. 

Thankfully, unlike so many of the Grand Seiko Snowflake watches, this winter-inspired release is a non-limited edition, and there’s plenty of availability at the time of writing this! But keep in mind this is a watch that has been out for three years now, so if it’s one you’ve fallen in love with, I recommend snapping it up as soon as you can, just in case Grand Seiko suddenly decides to discontinue it.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is hands down one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of trying on recently. If you’re someone who’s been captivated by the magic of the Grand Seiko Snowflake but hasn’t quite found the budget or the right model for you, this could be the perfect watch. The crisp white textured dial is absolutely breathtaking and really stands out as a centerpiece.

As I mentioned earlier, I strongly urge anyone who’s even somewhat interested to go see this watch in person. The way the light plays off the dial, the rich texture, and those subtle hand-finished elements are something you truly have to experience up close. I guarantee you’ll get lost in its details just as much as I did!