Benedetto Youssef, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 4 of 5

Author: Benedetto Youssef

How to Spot a Fake Rolex

How to Spot a Fake Rolex

Benedetto Youssef

October 4, 2024

You’ve seen it before: a green backdrop, the iconic crown, the gold embossed lettering. Rolex is arguably the most recognizable brand in the world. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides. 

And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake. 

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And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolexes than I’d care to admit. But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus. 

So sit tight, grab your favorite drink, and let’s discuss the surefire ways to spot a fake Rolex.

Why There Are So Many Fake Rolex Watches

There is no way to accurately quantify the amount of fake Rolex watches in the wild. Even the most conservative of estimations claim that for every genuine Rolex, there are between 10 and 20 counterfeit ones. With Rolex making about 1 million watches per year, there are likely hundreds of millions of fake Rolex watches in the world. 

So yeah—I don’t need to tell you that there are a lot of fake Rolexes. If you take a walk through Chinatown in NYC, you’ll come across various vendors selling imitation Rolex watches. You might have an uncle Tony who loves to brandish a fake, iced-out Presidential. Or maybe curiosity has gotten the best of you, and you’ve browsed the loads of fakes available via the online Asian markets.

Rolex isn’t just a watch—it’s a symbol of success, elegance, and prestige. The brand’s global reputation has created a high demand, which counterfeiters are more than eager to exploit. The sheer volume of fakes on the market stems from the allure of owning a luxury timepiece without the accompanying price tag. 

The average person might recognize a few well-known Swiss watch brands, but almost everyone can identify a Rolex. In a world where people often flaunt success and wealth—sometimes without the means to back it up—social media is overflowing with pretenders. Wearing a fake Rolex is just another form of that same illusion, a symbol of the desire to appear successful at any cost.

12 Ways to Tell If a Rolex is Real

Here are 12 indicators you can look at to make sure your Rolex is real.

Reputable Dealer

Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex watch—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Rolex, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex. This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. 

If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock drawer, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!

Watch Price

Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which is nearly impossible in this day and age? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP, period. 

So, if someone is offering you a Daytona for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?

Watch Weight

A reliable way to spot a fake Rolex is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits. This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, such as 904L stainless steel, 18k gold, or 950 platinum in more recent models. Older Rolex watches might feature 9k or 14k gold, gold shell, or 316L stainless steel before the brand transitioned to 904L steel. 

On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing. 

Movement

One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake. New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day. 

If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine. However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. 

Caseback

Most Rolex casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of brushed or polished metal with no engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Unlike some other luxury watch brands, you won’t typically find a clear window on the back of a Rolex to show off the movement. But there are a few exceptions—some vintage models and special editions might break the rule. 

Plus, with newer models like the platinum Daytona, Rolex has started to offer exhibition casebacks, giving a peek at the intricate inner workings. And for authenticity, Rolex often includes a green hologram sticker on the caseback with a crown, serial number, and a cool 3D “ROLEX” pattern that shifts depending on the viewing angle.

Cyclops

Many Rolex models with a date display include a feature known as the Cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal. The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the Cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant. Many fake Rolex watches have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. 

I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner. When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.

Crown Markings

Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns and their design and execution. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward. A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jewelers loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown. Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with case material. 

Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and some GMT-Master IIs. Two dots signal a Twinlock crown, typically providing up to 100 meters of water resistance, often seen on models like the Datejust or Oyster Perpetual. There’s also a single dot or a line on some crowns, usually indicating a variation of the Twinlock crown, often found on vintage or less water-resistant models. The number of dots varies depending on the model and its water resistance features.

Serial Numbers

Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving! 

Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches. Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.

Dial Details

Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing. Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. 

They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye. And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!

Hands

When checking if a Rolex is fake, the hands can reveal a lot. First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious. 

Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off. The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel. If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.

If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake. I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. 

I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch. Finally, for models with chronographs, the hands should start, stop, and reset smoothly. Any stuttering or misalignment could mean it’s not the real deal. In the end, paying attention to these details can help you spot a fake Rolex quickly.

Crystal Etching

Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal. This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately. 

If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake.  One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface. This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.

Water Resistance

Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory. 

While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.

Why You Shouldn’t Buy Fake Rolex Watches

I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit watch. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so. There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. 

There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake. With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market. 

Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.

Conclusion

By taking the time to educate yourself and carefully examine any Rolex you’re considering, you ensure that you’re not just buying a watch but a genuine piece of history. A real Rolex is a lifelong companion that can be passed down through generations. Don’t settle for less. Wearing the crown is a costly endeavor, but that ensures a quality timepiece that symbolizes its wearer’s commitment to genuine quality.

cheapest rolex watch(s)

Cheapest Rolex Watches

Benedetto Youssef

September 18, 2024

The Rolex Datejust and Explorer take the lion’s share of the new, entry-level, and affordable Rolex market, and if you are looking for an “affordable” (yes, please notice the tinge of sarcasm in my voice, hence the quotations) Rolex, then you simply can’t go wrong with either of those models. 

I’ve spent a significant amount of time with both; they are absolutely bullet-proof and timeless designs, but they aren’t the only Rolex watches to consider if affordability is one of your deciding factors. So, to all my kings and queens out there—adjust your crowns, and let’s take a ride together, exploring the new and pre-owned Rolex watch market.

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Are There Any Affordable Rolex Watches?

Affordability is a very personal word. For some, a $200,000 watch from a high-end horology house is affordable, while for others, a quartz watch from Macy’s for $79 is at the ceiling of what they’d consider affordable. It’s subjective, folks. That said, I’ve compiled a list of the most affordable new watches from Rolex. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is often the first Rolex many people experience, and for good reason. It’s the perfect blend of luxury and approachability, offering a taste of Rolex’s esteemed craftsmanship without overwhelming your budget. It also helps that the Oyster Perpetual comes in a variety of stylish colors, with green being one of my favorites! 

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is offered in 41mm and 36mm variations for men, with smaller 34mm and 28mm options available for women. This watch is crafted with a stainless steel case and a COSC-certified automatic movement, making it both robust and precise. 

With a starting price of around $5,550 for the 28mm version and reaching up to $6,400 for the 41mm, the Oyster Perpetual is a great value proposition, especially when considering that these watches really don’t lose their value.

Rolex Explorer

Rolex Explorer 39 (ref. 214270)

The Explorer is my favorite Rolex—period. I love the mountains and the outdoors, and something about a robust three-hander without complications just gets me going. The Rolex Explorer’s claim to fame came in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore Rolex Explorers during their historic ascent of Everest. This iconic moment cemented the watch’s reputation as a reliable companion for those who push the boundaries of exploration.

With its straightforward design and dependable build, the Explorer continues to honor that legacy, offering a blend of ruggedness and elegance that appeals to those who appreciate both adventure and heritage. Today, the standard Explorer—which is all I’m covering here, sorry two-tone and Explorer II fans—is available in 36mm and 40mm, fitting the vast majority of wrists out there, both male and female. The 36mm can be had for $7,250, and the 40mm retails for $7,700.

Rolex Air King 

Rolex Air King (ref. 126900)

Ah, yes—the Rolex Air King. Considered by some to be the ugly duckling of Rolex’s line, I myself have always been stricken by the asymmetry of the dial and numerals. The Air King is a great watch for those who want something different or for pilots who need “big ole” numbers to look at. The black dial, with its oversized numerals, is easily legible and gives the Air King a distinctive look that sets it apart from the crowd. 

Like all Rolex watches, the Air King is COSC-certified and guaranteed to deliver an accurate and robust wearing experience. At 40mm, the Air King is sized appropriately for its purpose; it offers a bold, commanding presence while remaining practical for those who need to rely on their watch in demanding environments, whether that be in the air, on land, or in the sea. Priced at $7,450, the Air King is one of Rolex’s most affordable models.

Rolex Datejust

Iced out rolex datejust

The Rolex Datejust is a watch that effortlessly balances elegance with practicality. It’s one of those pieces that feels both classic and contemporary, making it a versatile choice for almost any occasion. Many consider it to be the quintessential Rolex. For decades, the Datejust has effortlessly navigated from the boardroom, where it complements a fine suit and slips seamlessly under a cuff, to weekend outings, whether you’re enjoying a cocktail or catching a movie, pairing just as effortlessly with jeans and a t-shirt. 

Don’t quote me on this, but the Datejust is considered to be Rolex’s selling watch of all time, and it is offered in a huge plethora of colors, case materials, and sizes. For this “affordable” article, we are going to focus on stainless steel models in 36mm and 41mm configurations—though Rolex does make a 31mm for women. The 36mm retails for $7,450 and $9,050 with the fluted, white gold bezel. The 41mm retails for $8,050 and $10,600 with the fluted, white gold bezel.

What About Pre-Owned Rolex Watches?

Because of their high demand, you’ll often see pre-owned Rolexes going for more than their original retail price—though the market has cooled off as of late. But hey, if you’re into vintage pieces, you might just snag a great deal. There are some classic Rolex models out there that are surprisingly affordable, especially if you’re willing to dig a bit. It’s all about finding the right seller and being patient. There are vintage Datejust watches for sale in the $3,000 to $5,000 price range. Just make sure you verify the authenticity and have a professional open the watch up to ensure it is in good working order!

Conclusion

What if I told you since 1970, inflation has risen by about 700%; you might shrug and say, “well yeah—duh. Things get more expensive.” So, five dollars in 1970 would be around thirty-five dollars today. Now what if I told you that in 1970, a brand new Rolex Submariner cost, depending on the model, around $300? Yeah, I know. Let’s get a time machine and stockpile them! Adjusted for inflation, that same Rolex should cost around $2000.

And yet, a new Submariner cost north of $10,000, with a date. Rolex-flation, since 1970, has eclipsed regular inflation significantly; the actual number stands at over 4000%. An entry-level model, such as the four previously mentioned, is a great way to get ahead of the ever-increasing cost of owning a Rolex. 

Another great way is to browse the tantalizing bargains on the pre-owned market, with special consideration given to vintage Rolex watches. As with anything Rolex, buyer beware: there are many fakes out in the wild, with some claiming that the vast majority of “Rolex” watches sold today are actually fakes. That’s why it is so important to always “buy the seller.” 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication, to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!

Grand Seiko SLGH013 Review

Grand Seiko SLGH013 Review – The Snowflake in Spring

Benedetto Youssef

August 28, 2024

Many people purchase luxury watches that are recognizable, iconic, and flashy, often to impress others. However, it is said that you buy a Grand Seiko not to impress others but rather to impress yourself. 

There is something both tangible and intangible about the beauty of a Grand Seiko. The sharp lines and Zaratsu polished edges certainly leave an impression. 

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On the SLGH013, the Ever-Brilliant Steel case, a proprietary corrosion-resistant steel, has a nice heft to it—a reminder that you are wearing something special and exceptionally durable. Beyond the tactile pleasures of wearing a luxury timepiece, the SLGH013’s dial is both poetic and romantic. But more on that later…

History

Grand Seiko SLGH013 History

The Grand Seiko SLGH013 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. 

Released in 2023, the SLGH013 is a perfect blend of past and present, utilizing new case materials, movement technology, and a more compact and wearable size; overall, the SLGH013 makes a strong case for being a near-perfect Grand Seiko.

Case

I think it would be silly to discuss this case without first bringing up the new and improved dimensions. The new generation movement (9SA5) allows for a much more appropriate form factor that can be dressed up or down. This watch seemed right at 40mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. 

I don’t have the largest wrist, at 6.75 inches. Trying on a variety of different Grand Seiko models had always left me pursing my lips and wondering: “Can I pull this off, or is it just a smidge too big?” 


And then, one day, I saw the SLGH013 for the first time…

The proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel paired amazingly well with the case, offering an ethereal sheen, further accentuated by what I knew was Zaratsu polishing on the edges of the case. 

I’d read that the new case material was more corrosion and scratch-resistant than Oystersteel, and a bit of research later confirmed that the material is not gimmicky but rather offers greater durability to the wearer. Hats off to Grand Seiko for their continued exploration of movement and material technology.

…And there it was—three feet away from me—winking at me, beckoning me to slip it over my wrist. I felt my heart quicken. I had to try this watch on. I had to see how it fit on my wrist. 

Dial

Grand Seiko is the master of dials this side of fifty thousand dollars. Their three-dimensionality, color-changing attributes, and connections to nature all make for a viewing experience that is leaps and bounds above the competition. 

The SLGH013 has a light blue, textured dial that evokes spring’s melting snow on Mt. Iwate, the 2,000-meter mountain visible from the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi workshop where all their mechanical watches are crafted. 

If you look closely enough, you’ll see individual strands of ice arranged this way and that. Your eyes can get lost in the visual maze, settling on darker spots or finding new shapes in the lighter crevices. For me, gazing upon the SLGH013’s dial was like sitting in a zen garden. 

I could meditate and just enjoy getting lost in the dial intricacies. Try doing that with a regular old black or blue dial…

And Grand Seiko being Grand Seiko means they don’t cut corners. The dial has Zaratsu polished hands and hour markers, offering superb legibility and light play even in low-light environments. Sure, you don’t get lume, but this watch is still super legible in most situations! 

Movement

The 9SA5 automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances. 

The new 9SA5 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This design retains its precision for longer and is more resistant to shock and friction. 

Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. The Grand Seiko SLGH013 has a sapphire case back with a large aperture, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. 

I was mesmerized by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps

Yes, yes—we’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine adjustment. 

The SLGH013’s bracelet is a step above the standard stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, as it is crafted from Ever-Brilliant Steel. It felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. However, the 19mm lug width may pose a challenge when seeking alternative straps. 

Fortunately, the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes, offering some versatility despite the size constraint. So, the bracelet is not the SLGH013’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience

“Is that the SLGH013?” I asked, even though I already knew the answer. 

“It sure is,” the salesman said, a smile on his face as he put on white gloves to present the timepiece to me. 

I swallowed. This was my moment. I felt like King Arthur, preparing to pull the sword from the stone. I’d tried on many Grand Seiko watches in the past, and though they visually tickled my fancy, they never checked that final and most important box: wearability. 

He handed the watch over to me and I gently placed my hand through the bracelet. The dial was unreal in person—no pictures could possibly do it justice. And it wore perfectly on my 6.75-inch wrist. 

It had no lug overhang, and it was slim enough to fit under my shirt’s collar. Beyond that, it offered a muted, sporty styling. I have no doubts that this watch will go perfectly with jeans and a T-shirt, or even a suit. I’d confidently say that this watch would do well on wrists ranging from 6 inches all the way up into the 8-inch territory, too.

Price & Availability

The SLGH013 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $9,500. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SLGH013, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces

We’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. 

We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or various watch forums. Still, with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success. 

The SLGH013 is, in my opinion, as close to perfect as one can get with a Grand Seiko. It offers superb wearability, finishing, and movement technology, all while being a direct descendant of the legendary 44GS. 

You don’t have to take my word on it, but I guarantee when you strap the SLGH013 for the first time, when your eyes widen in disbelief at the Zaratsu polished edges, when they get lost within the snowy Mt. Iwate, then and only then will you fully understand why Grand Seiko is the pride of Japan.

Omega Globemaster Review

ULTIMATE Omega Globemaster Review (READ Before Buying!)

Benedetto Youssef

August 23, 2024

Omega watches have adorned the wrists of astronauts, secret agents, celebrities, professional athletes, and even yours truly. They are one of the most globally recognizable brands, with a rich history of horological innovation and superb craftsmanship. 

When people think of Omega, they usually think of the Speedmaster Moonwatch or perhaps the Seamaster Diver. Both collections offer great versatility and styling but can be a bit “busy” or “complicated” for daily wear. Enter the Omega Globemaster.

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Our Top 3 Picks

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Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Silver Dial on Bracelet

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Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Annual Calendar 41mm 130.33.41.22.10.001

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About the Omega Globemaster

A no-nonsense grab and daily activity watch (GADA for short), the Omega Globemaster offers beauty in its simplicity. The Omega Globemaster is a sleeper choice for anyone seeking a timepiece that can be worn with a suit or a pair of jeans—that can be taken from the boardroom to the beach. 

It has a fluted bezel that accentuates the star of the show: the pie-pan dial, an ode to Omega’s earliest Constellation watch, released in 1952. The current version is available in two sizes: the 39mm offers great wearing dimensions, while the 41mm offers an additional and unique complication: an annual calendar with a pointer month.

History of the Omega Globemaster 

Going through any watch catalog can often be confusing, and a quick visit to Omega’s website reveals that the Globemaster line of watches is, in actuality, a subcollection of the Constellation line. This is due to the Globemaster’s historical connection with the earlier Constellation watches. 

Previously, there was a legal complication surrounding the use of the name “Constellation” in the USA, prompting Omega to adopt the name “Globemaster” instead. Consequently, the Globemaster remains a part of the Constellation line of watches to this day.

The first “Constellation” watch was launched in 1952, with a pie-pan dial and an applied star just above the 6 o’clock, visual characteristics that remain over 70 years later! Thanks to its top-notch build and reliable precision, the Constellation quickly became known as “The Swiss watch.” The eight stars on its medallion stand for the eight precision records OMEGA set at Kew-Teddington and the Geneva Observatory in the mid-20th century. The iconic engraving of the stars and observatory is a nod to these accomplishments and to the amazing accuracy the Constellation watch has always delivered.

I absolutely adore watches with a rich history. The iconic engraving of an observatory and eight stars is still situated as a medallion atop the sapphire exhibition caseback of every Omega Globemaster watch; the first time I held one in my hand and flipped it over, I felt an overwhelming sense of Omega’s identity: precision timekeeping, space exploration, movement technology, and heritage.

Omega Globemaster: In-Depth Review 

Available in two case sizes—39mm and 41mm—an array of dial colors, strap options, and case materials, the Omega Globemaster is as versatile as can be. Regardless of your preferences, there is a perfect Omega Globemaster suitable for everyone. 

My favorite 39mm version is the sun-brushed blue dial, and in 41mm, my eyes kept settling on the sun-brushed green dial (for some reason, Omega seems to love the word sun-brushed here). As with any timepiece, the specifics are important, so let’s get into it! 

Case Sizes & Materials

When first visiting an AD for a watch model I am unfamiliar with, I proudly point to my bony wrists, sheepishly smile, and ask what sizes does the watch come in. I quickly learned that the Omega Globemaster comes in two size configurations: 39mm and 41mm. 

The salesman was extraordinarily accommodating and knowledgeable, insisting on trying both sizes before deciding. The 39mm has a lug to lug of 46.7mm, a case thickness of 12.6mm, and a lug width of 20mm. 

These smaller models are available in stainless steel, two-tone steel and yellow gold, two-tone steel and Sedna (rose) gold, solid Sedna gold, and solid platinum. He had everything in stock, so I was lucky enough to get some wrist time with virtually all of the configurations. I felt like a kid in a candy shop.

The 41mm version was larger, but not so much that it would appear comical on an average wrist. It has a lug-to-lug of 50.1mm, a case thickness of 14.6mm, and a lug width of 20mm. This larger model is available in stainless steel, two-tone steel and Sedna gold, solid Sedna gold, and solid platinum. 

Additionally, the 41 mm stainless steel case features a tungsten carbide bezel for greater durability. My experience with tungsten carbide, to this point, was limited to rings and men’s jewelry, but seeing Omega’s usage of different materials was a breath of fresh air in an industry that often doesn’t think outside of the box.

Both sizes offer 100m of water resistance, though it’s worth noting that Omega achieves this without a screw-down crown (which I am totally okay with!). The Omega Globemaster, like all Omega watches, is crafted to a high standard, with superior anti-magnetic (15,000 gauss) and shock-resistant properties. 

Either version is the perfect accompaniment to using a sledgehammer and running through magnetic fields, but in all seriousness, these watches are up to the task no matter what you throw at them.

Dials

When I first saw that Omega pie-pan dial, I was mesmerized. And I didn’t even know what a pie pan was (according to my wife, it’s that white ceramic pan in which she bakes apple pies). Baking aside, this dial pattern makes the Globemaster seem like it came through a time machine straight from the 1970s (and it’s very legible, too). 

The brilliant dials, available in various hues of blue, silver, white, gray, green, brown, gold, and even vivid red, are framed by the signature fluted bezel, offering superior light play and an elevated wearing experience. The 41mm versions have an extra hand because of their annual calendar functionality, pointing to the appropriate month written in elegant cursive. 

Movements

The 39mm version of the Omega Globemaster comes with the Calibre 8900, a self-winding movement equipped with a Co-Axial escapement. It is certified as a Master Chronometer, approved by METAS, demonstrating superior accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. 

Its design incorporates a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, complemented by two barrels mounted in series for automatic winding in both directions. The exquisite finish includes a rhodium-plated rotor and bridges adorned with Geneva waves in arabesque, adding a touch of luxury. This movement offers a generous 60 hours of power reserve. 

The 41mm version of the Omega Globemaster features the Calibre 8923, a self-winding movement featuring a Co-Axial escapement. This movement is also a certified Master Chronometer. Its construction includes a free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring, along with twin barrels. 

Notably, it offers an annual calendar with an instantaneous jump and a central-hand month indication. Adding to its prestige is an elevated luxury finish, characterized by an 18K Sedna™ gold rotor and balance bridge embellished with Geneva waves in arabesque. This movement offers 55 hours of power reserve.

Strap Options

Because both watches have a 20mm lug width, there is a wide variety of straps available for purchase, both from Omega and even aftermarket. That said, Omega offers a variety of leather straps, with crocodilian patterns: gray, navy, brown, green, tan, and oxblood. The 39mm version can be purchased with a stainless steel bracelet, or two tone yellow gold and steel/Sedna gold and steel. When I visited the AD, I tried on both bracelet and leather strap options, and the bracelet won by a landslide. 

But I didn’t see any of the 41mm versions on the bracelet, so I asked if they could fit one on for me. They, unfortunately, informed me that the bracelet did not fit the larger 41mm version because of the difference in case thickness. I shrugged, slightly disappointed that customers with larger wrists didn’t have access to the same excellent bracelet as those available on the 39mm version.

On The Wrist

Now my wrist is a bit on the smaller side, at 6.75 inches, but not far from the “average” of most men. With that said, I found the 39mm version of the Globemaster to be an absolute joy on the wrist. It has a lug-to-lug of 46mm, which is only 1mm less than my Omega Railmaster. For those that don’t know, lug-to-lug width is measured from the end of the 12 o’clock lug to the end of the 6 o’clock lug. This measurement is usually a better predictor of wearability than case size. 

Lug-to-lugs shorter than 50mm are often best or average wrists because they don’t “overhang” over the edges of your wrist. This makes for a much more comfortable wear. Some watches feel like a burden to wear, and others disappear on the wrist. The 39mm Globemaster disappeared on my wrist when I tried it on at the AD. The 41mm Globemaster is larger, with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. It did not, and after 30 seconds of wearing it, I knew it would never work for me. 

Most Popular Omega Globemaster Models 

There are close to twenty configurations of the Omega Globemaster for sale. With such a dizzying number of options, I’d like to offer you five of my favorites that are worthy of your consideration.

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Silver Dial on Bracelet (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster 39mm White Dial (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

This is the bread and butter of the Omega Constellation collection; 39mm, stainless steel, with Omega’s legendary Co-Axial movement, this watch is an appropriate accompaniment to virtually any outfit or situation. With a color-matching date at the 6 o’clock position and a pristine silver pie-pan dial, the Omega Constellation Globemaster in 39mm is a no-brainer, especially considering its value proposition at $7,900. 

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to realize that after black, blue is one of the most popular dial colors in horology. For those looking to add a splash of color and style to their daily wear, the Omega Constellation Globemaster, with its deep, but not quite navy, blue dial, is both elegant and subtle in its aesthetic charm. 

Of all the dial colors, I think the fluted bezel really compliments the blue best. After some reflections, I think the contrast of polished steel and the light play work really well with the deep blue dial. This specific reference comes on a leather crocodile patterned strap, but the stainless steel bracelet is available as well. The MSRP with the strap is $7.500.

Omega Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Annual Calendar 41mm (ref. 130.33.41.22.10.001)

I may be a bit biased here because green is my favorite color, but Omega really hit the bullseye with what they refer to as a “sun-brushed” green dial. The tungsten carbide bezel provides enhanced durability and scratch resistance, and the 41mm sizing offers greater wrist presence and legibility, which is necessary for using the annual calendar function—each month printed in sharp cursive and flanked by the applied indices. 

A green leather strap, matching the dial, is both supple and complimentary to the timepiece. Omega manages to pack loads of technology, finishing, and horology in this timepiece, all while keeping it under $10,000 (MSRP of $9,200). This is a watch worthy of your consideration! 

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Yellow Gold (ref. 130.53.39.21.02.002)

A yellow gold watch is a sign of accomplishment, of life’s journey, of considering one’s success. The yellow gold Omega Constellation Globemaster in 39mm exudes luxury and sophistication. It has an opaline silvery dial, with yellow gold indices, star, and hand set. 

The motif coin on the back of the watch is also in yellow gold, with a Sedna gold rotor to offer some contrast. Overall, anyone looking for a gold watch that can be dressed up or down should greatly consider this model, as the MSRP of $25,200 is a bargain when considering the competition. 

Omega Constellation Globemaster Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm Sedna Gold & Steel (ref. 130.20.39.21.03.001)

I know some consider Sedna gold to be a fancy name for rose gold, but I have to admit that there is something special about the luster and light play of Omega’s Sedna gold—it feels out of this world, which is appropriate considering the brand’s connection to space exploration. This is a two-tone stainless steel and Sedna gold piece, complete with a two tone bracelet that offers the perfect marriage between casual and dressy. 

The sun-brushed blue dial is a marvel to behold, and the 39mm sizing fits the needs of the vast majority of wrists. I know what you’re probably thinking: two-tone Sedna gold with a bracelet, that has to be a lot of money. But it’s not; the Omega Constellation Globemaster Sedna and Steel watch retails for $13,600, offering superb value for the money.


Should You Buy An Omega Constellation Globemaster?

The wonderful thing about the Omega Constellation Globemaster is that there is a timepiece in this collection for everyone, truly. It makes a great graduation or early career piece in stainless steel. It also travels well—hence the name—in either 39 or 41mm. 

Its 100m of water resistance, superior antimagnetic properties and shock resistance, and timeless styling make for a dynamic timepiece. So yes, I wholeheartedly suggest this collection to anyone looking for something that will wear well, age well, and offer superior time telling.

Omega Globemaster Pricing & Availability

Omega Globemasters are available at all authorized dealers of Omega. The stainless steel models, on the leather straps, start at $7,500. Opting for the bracelet brings the price up to $7,900. The two-tone, Sedna gold and steel models are $13,600. Jumping up to the 41mm annual calendar, in stainless steel, will set you back $9,200. Two tone 41mm models are $12,900, and the solid Sedna gold model retails for $30,200; the full Sedna gold with Sedna gold dial is the most expensive of the entire collection, at $36,600.

If you are seeking an Omega Globemaster Watch, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Omega. As an authorized dealer of Omega, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. 

We also have a great collection of Omega Constellation Globemaster watches. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Omega includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase an Omega timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

Considering the price, brand heritage, technology, and horological significance, I think you would be hard-pressed to find as solid of a watch as the Omega Globemaster in any guise. The 39mm wears like a glove on my 6.75-inch wrist, and it wears just as well on smaller or larger wrists. Next time you pass by an Omega dealer, don’t only consider trying on the heavy hitters, but also consider trying on this collection; I think you’ll be shocked as to how great it wears!

The Holy Trinity of Watches

The Holy Trinity of Watches

Benedetto Youssef

August 23, 2024

If you ask a Christian about the Holy Trinity, they are likely to explain it by making the sign of the cross and mentioning the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. For faithful watch enthusiasts, the holy trinity of watches is the absolute pinnacle of their hobby, referencing the three pillars of the Swiss Watch Industry. Every watch nerd aspires to one day own an example of the holy trinity of watches: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

Their names are synonymous with luxury, with horology, and awe-inspiring innovation.

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Why are they Called the Holy Trinity?

Enthusiasts often create creative names and titles to denote aspirational purchases and brands. A grail watch is a once-in-a-lifetime purchase, something you are dreaming of purchasing one day—maybe after a promotion or a major life milestone. 

For example, my “grail” watch is the Breguet Tradition 7097BB; will I ever get one? Maybe. And it keeps me motivated in life, serving as a reminder of my hard work and dedication to my career. The holy trinity of wristwatches serves a similar purpose: as role model and inspiration for many smaller, and often independently owned, watch brands seeking to climb Mount Luxury. 

Thus, the “Holy Trinity” term is used to emphasize the unparalleled status and the revered position these three brands hold in the world of horology, making them universally recognized both within and outside the watch industry.

Patek Philippe: A King Among Kings

Patek Philippe Nautilus

I remember when I held my first Patek Philippe. I wasn’t even into watches at the time. I had an Invicta my Godfather gifted me, tucked somewhere in a sock drawer, its battery long dead. I was a teenager then, and I was asked to hold a friend’s watch while he played a game of basketball. It was gold and pristine, heavier than what I expected. 

Little did I know that I wouldn’t hold a Patek Philippe in the flesh again for some fifteen years. Holding a Patek Philippe in hand is something special. Pictures just don’t do them justice.

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has established itself as a leader in high horology, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now widely adopted across the watch industry. 

Its numerous horological achievements include the creation of the first annual calendar watch and the introduction of wristwatches featuring perpetual calendars and split-second chronographs. 

Patek Philippe enjoys popularity across its collections, but its Aquanaut and Nautilus sports models are some of its most recognizable pieces. It is also worth mentioning the historical relevance of its Calatrava line, first introduced in 1932. The Calatrava continues to serve as a reminder of the beauty in simplicity and the remarkable craftsmanship of Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe is the king, plain and simple. Their watches have adorned the wrists of many famous individuals, including Queen Victoria, Albert Einstein, and Pablo Picasso. Celebrities like Brad Pitt, Ellen DeGeneres, and John Mayer are also known for their appreciation of the brand’s exceptional timepieces. Athletes, including tennis star Rafael Nadal and basketball legend LeBron James, have been known to wear multiple references from the brand. 

Vacheron Constantin: The Grandpa We All Love

Vacheron Constantin is the grandpa we all love! It is one of the oldest watchmakers in existence today, and it is certainly the oldest, by a wide margin, on this list. I was lucky enough to try on a rose gold Overseas a few years ago. 

I was blown away by the depth of its blue dial, by the finishing of its movement, and by a bracelet that seemed to be constructed by an alien race rather than human hands. It just flowed over my wrist like a waterfall, embracing the contours and curves of my wrist without being unobtrusive or uncomfortable. The watch was perfect—emblematic of Vacheron Constantin as a brand.

Vacheron Constantin, one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious watchmakers, was founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin. The company boasts over 250 years of uninterrupted watchmaking, surviving and thriving through multiple world wars, the quartz crisis, the Industrial Revolution, and the digital age. 

Vacheron Constantin is renowned for several innovations in horology. They introduced the first engine-turned dials in 1779 and developed one of the first watches with a date complication in 1790. The company also created the world’s thinnest mechanical watch in 1955 and continues to push boundaries with complex grand complications, such as the Reference 57260, which features 57 complications and is considered one of the most complicated watches ever made.

Although it may not enjoy the same brand recognition as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin watches have been worn by notable figures such as Marlon Brando, Jay-Z, and Eric Clapton. Athletes like Michael Jordan and Tom Brady are also known to sport these prestigious timepieces, showcasing their broad appeal across various fields. Vacheron Constantin offers a rich collection of dressy, sporty, and complicated timepieces. 

Across their line, the Overseas—a sports model offered in steel, titanium, or precious metal—enjoys the most mass appeal and popularity. The Historique American 1921, originally created for the American market in the early 20th century, offers a unique cushion-shaped case and a dial that is tilted at a 45-degree angle for easier viewing while driving.

Audemars Piguet: The Rebellious Teenager

Audemars Royal Oak Offshore

Audemars Piguet, or as the masses refer to it, “A-P,” is the third member of the venerated holy trinity of watches. The brand is not only important and relevant to horology but has also transcended culture, music, sports, and the world of luxury “it” items. LeBron James is a big fan and even has his own special edition. You’ll also see Tom Cruise, Jay-Z, and Lionel Messi rocking AP watches. 

Audemars Piguet has been crafting watches since 1875 when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Today, the company is headquartered in Le Brassus and remains one of the few watchmaking firms still privately owned, with the Audemars family at the helm. 

Known for its innovations, Audemars Piguet created the world’s first-minute repeater movement for wristwatches in 1892 and introduced the first jumping-hour watch in 1921. In 1986, they also launched the first self-winding tourbillon wristwatch.

I have to admit, if I were to close my eyes and envision a luxury sports watch, it would be the Royal Oak every time. Designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the first true luxury sports watch. 

This iconic design inspired, at least in part, the Nautilus and Overseas models from the two other Holy Trinity brands we’ve explored here, as well as numerous others in the industry. The Code 11.59 is another, more recent collection that has gained popularity in the past few years. It showcases Audemars Piguet’s dedication to innovation and modern design—to pave the future design language of luxury wristwatches. 

Why no Rolex?

Rolex undeniably wears the crown, but its true expertise lies in marketing, brand exposure, and business acumen, with watchmaking coming in second. I don’t mean to say they make second-rate watches because they don’t. Their watches are bulletproof, timeless, and undeniably luxury icons. 

When we mention Rolex, we’re referring to a brand that produces over a million watches annually, with plans for even further expansion. In contrast, the esteemed Holy Trinity of watchmakers collectively manufacture just over 100,000 watches each year. 

Therefore, it’s obvious why Rolex isn’t formally included on this list. Rolex is king of the masses, but the crown still bows to the trinity.

Closing Thoughts

Having the means and allocation luck to acquire a timepiece from any of these three companies is truly a privilege. Patek Philippe stands as the quintessential choice for those drawn to heritage, formal wear, and a touch of understated elegance. 

Vacheron Constantin appeals to those who cherish tradition, impeccable finishing, and a refined aesthetic that effortlessly spans generations. 

Audemars Piguet, on the other hand, caters to individuals who admire bold style, contemporary designs, and a rebellious spirit in luxury watchmaking. No matter your choice or preference, these are three of the most distinguished, acclaimed, and finely crafted timepieces on earth. There are no losers here…

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