Category: Rolex

Many watches are coined iconic, but only a few really deserve that classification. The Rolex Datejust has truly been an icon in the Crown’s catalog since its introduction in 1945. It was initially introduced to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Rolex. 

The first, ref.4467, was introduced with a full yellow gold case, only offered on the Jubilee bracelet, and featured a tan-white dial. 

The Datejust was the first wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date function. Various iterations have been made over the years, some sportier, some dressier, but all made to the high specifications of the Swiss watch giant. 

About the Rolex Datejust

Rolex was not always called Rolex; in fact, it was introduced as Wilsdorf & Davis in 1905 and changed its name to Rolex in 1908. Wilsdorf & Davis was founded in England. However, the name transition took place at the same time it moved to Switzerland. 

Fast forward to 1945, and Rolex introduced a timepiece that would revolutionize the mechanics of automatic watches and the entire horology industry. The Datejust was introduced as the first automatic watch to feature a date function. 

In typical Rolex fashion, the first Datejust did not even feature the word “Datejust” on the dial but was rather called the ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual’. The ‘Datejust’ name finally made a permanent appearance somewhere in the 1950s. 

The Datejust has seen numerous changes over the years, with hundreds of different configurations available. Fittingly, the Datejust has found itself on the wrists of some incredible people throughout history, like the 14th Dalai Lama (Tenzin Gyatso), Dwight D. Eisenhower, Winston Churchill, Michael Jordan, and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. 

Rolex Datejust Characteristics

The Datejust and Daydate are some of the most customizable models in the Rolex catalog, with several hundred versions sold over the decades. 

The materials used for the Datejust have changed from its yellow gold roots and now include rose gold, red gold, white gold, 316L stainless steel, platinum, and a two-tone combination of gold with steel. While there are plenty of options for materials used, there are only two bracelet options – the Jubilee and the Oyster. 

While the fluted bezel is synonymous with Rolex, the Datejust also features various other bezel options. You can specify your Datejust with a smooth and diamond-set bezel. And let’s not forget the Turn-O-Graph bezel. The Datejust also comes in several sizes: 26mm, 28mm, 31mm, 34mm (known as the Rolex Date), 36mm, and 41mm to fit contemporary tastes. 

Who Has Worn the Datejust?

As any watch enthusiast will tell you, we all have a bit of a guilty pleasure in looking at who is wearing what, particularly famous individuals. With the Datejust being one of Rolex’s oldest models, the Datejust has seen wrist action on plenty of prominent figures over the decades. 

Several American presidents have worn the Datejust, including Eisenhower and Reagan. Dr. Martin Luther King was spotted on several occasions wearing the Datejust ref. 1601, and British Prime Minister Winston Churchill was given the 100,000th officially certified chronometer by Rolex – a 36mm Datejust with a fluted white gold bezel. 

Film characters have also worn this iconic timepiece, such as Paul Newman portraying Eddie Felson in The Color of Money. Matthew McConaughey also wears a two-tone Datejust in the Wolf of Wall Street as he portrays Mark Hanna. So, if you were looking to get yourself a Datejust, you certainly are in great company. But which one is right for you? 

15 Best Datejust Models

1. Rolex Datejust 126334 Bright Black

We kick off the list with one of the modern classics featuring everything that makes the Datejust special. The elegant 41mm Oyster case holds the Bright Black dial featuring white hour markers, making for great legibility. 

The archetypal 18 c White Gold fluted bezel not only looks stunning but also aids in giving the timepiece its 100m of water resistance. This particular reference is offered on the Oyster bracelet, but you can find a few online that feature the Jubilee bracelet as well. 

Internally, the watch is powered by the chronometer-certified Rolex caliber 3235, featuring a 70-hour power reserve. According to the Rolex website, the Datejust 126334 has a retail price of $10,500, and an unworn example will typically run you more than $13,000 on the second-hand market.

2. Rolex Datejust 126200 Olive Green Palm Motif

This 36mm Datejust 126200 features an extraordinary Green Palm Motif dial first released at Watches & Wonders back in 2021. The rest of the watch is pretty ordinary, finished in steel, and is accented by a smooth bezel. This allows all the attention to be drawn to the green dial.

While patterns may sometimes throw off legibility, the Palm Motif of this Datejust features bold white hour markers ensuring the watch does not lose functionality. Furthermore, the 36mm case is the same as the first Datejust from 1945 and is also the perfect size for most wrists today. 

Timekeeping duties are dealt with by the new-generation caliber 3235, constructed from nickel-phosphorus, ensuring the watch is resistant to errors due to magnetic fields. This particular reference has a retail price of $7,700, but you’ll be lucky to find it below $12,000.

3. Rolex Datejust 278274 Azzurro Blue

If you’re looking for a Datejust that does not apologize for drawing attention to itself, the Azzurro Blue dial Datejust is the one for you. While the case size of 31mm is subtle, the rest of this reference 278274, certainly is not. 

The watch is finished in white Rolesor, denoting the stainless steel case and the white gold fluted bezel. The Jubilee bracelet is also finished in steel, but your attention will primarily be drawn to the diamond-set dial. 

The Azzurro Blue Floral Motif contains 24 diamonds within 18ct gold settings and was only recently introduced at Watches & Wonders 2022.

4. Rolex Datejust 126303 White

The combination of yellow gold and steel is a timeless look, and one Rolex calls Yellow Rolesor – a portmanteau of ‘Rol’ (from Rolex) and the French word ‘or’, which means gold. This reference 126303 is presented in beautiful Rolesor and features a smooth gold bezel. 

The white dial is accentuated with yellow gold-tone hands and index hour markers, all filled with Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight lume for nighttime legibility. The two-tone bracelet features the Oysterlock clasp, making for an easy and safe wearing experience. 

Being a modern 41mm Datejust, it features the chronometer-certified caliber 3235, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw down granting this timeless classic 100m of water resistance. You can pick up this watch for $14,250 at retail; however, you’ll be paying a premium on the second-hand market.

5. Rolex Datejust 126234 Bright Blue Fluted Motif

If you prefer your Datejust to have a little dimensional tone, perhaps you should look at the recently introduced Fluted Motif. Represented here on a Datejust 36 in a blue finish, the Fluted Motif creates presence by using a geometric pattern on the fluted bezel. 

The bezel is, of course, finished in 18 c white gold, but interestingly enough, this specific reference is offered on either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Personally, I prefer the Jubilee because there just isn’t a more exemplary bracelet. 

This watch is offered either with diamond-set hour markers or, for those who prefer a subtler approach, you can opt for white gold hour markers. Whichever you end up going for, this 36mm Datejust is a modern classic with a stunning dial finish. 

6. Rolex Datejust 278289RBR Mother of Pearl

The original lady Datejust was released in a petite size back in 1957. Modern taste prefers slightly larger watches, so the 31mm Datejust variant could be considered a lady Datejust even though it is classified as a ‘mid-sized’ watch, according to the Crown. 

Fitting in with the larger size, this reference 278289RBR features stunning characteristics you won’t find on every wrist. Not only is the dial finished in a Mother of Pearl fashion, but it is also set with diamond hour markers. 

To place the watch among the most stylish of timepeices, the bezel is also set with diamonds. The entire case and President’s bracelet are finished in 18 c white gold, yet the watch retains its usability with 100m of water resistance.

7. Rolex Datejust 126300 Mint Green

The Rolex green has become synonymous with the company, and the mint green dial represented here has become a favorite among seasoned collectors and enthusiasts alike. It’s shown here in a 41mm case finished in Oystersteel, a steel from the 904L family. 

The watch is presented on the famed Jubilee bracelet, which matches seamlessly with the domed bezel. The watch is also a mere 11.7mm thick, making it easy to slide under most shirt cuffs. A 47.6mm lug-to-lug measurement means this Datejust wears like a proper 41mm and will fit most wrists perfectly. 

As with all other modern Datejust 41’s, the watch is powered by Rolex’s caliber 3235. COSC or ‘Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres’ certified with a -2 / +2 seconds per day precision after casing. The retail on this reference is $14,700, but as with all other Rolex watches, you will have to pay slightly more on the second-hand market. 

8. Rolex Datejust 126231 Slate

Roger Federer, the world-renowned Swiss tennis player, is one of the few athletes sponsored by Rolex. It would then come as no surprise that the watch community has given this slate-colored Datejust the nickname ‘Wimbledon”. With an ideal size of 36mm, this two-toned Datejust is set to become a cult classic.

Constructed from Oystersteel and Everose Gold (Rolex’s rose gold), this timepiece is aesthetically pleasing and remarkably robust. The dial is also given more presence with a sunray finish and black Roman numeral hour markers with a rich green outline. Priced slightly higher than other Datejusts at $15,500 retail, you’ll also be expected to pay even more due to market value.

9. Rolex Datejust 278278 Black Mother of Pearl

The Black Mother of Pearl dial is something to behold, with a lustrous coloring and a dark silky finish. The dial featured on reference 278278 is also set with 11 diamonds, filling the “VI” at the 6 o’clock position. The other Roman Numerals and coronet are set in 18 c yellow gold. 

In fact, the entire case and President bracelet are finished in 18 c yellow gold, as well as the fluted bezel. A timeless design elevated with diamonds, precious metals, and a seamless blend of artistry and technical craftsmanship. 

Ticking away within the 31mm case is the caliber 2236, chronometer-certified and resistant to magnetic fields. Not that you would wear a diamond set Datejust into the field, but it grants you peace of mind that this timepiece is not just all show. 

10. Rolex Datejust 126331 Slate Fluted Motif

The Datejust has been in production since 1945 but has benefited from modern technology. Introduced in 2021, the Slate Fluted Motif dial you see on this reference 126331 is produced using femtosecond laser techniques, a low-temperature technique used to engrave the surface. 

Measuring 41mm in diameter, this Datejust not only fits contemporary taste but also creates a bold impression with its steel and rose gold construction. The dial features white hour markers lined in 18 c rose gold, and the hands are completely set in rose gold and feature luminance. 

The fluted bezel elevates the fluted motif even more, and the two-tone Oyster bracelet accentuates the lasting design. Internally, the watch is powered by the Rolex caliber 3235, equipped with a 70-hour power reserve. 

11. Rolex Datejust 126233 Golden Fluted Motif

If you have around $12,000 burning a hole in your pocket and you’re in the market for a watch that’ll last you a lifetime, perhaps the Rolex Datejust reference 126233 could solve your problem. 

Presented in a bi-metal finish consisting of Oystersteel and yellow gold, this timepiece has the makings of a future classic. Featuring the newly introduced Fluted Motif on the dial in a golden fashion to match the gold fluted bezel. 

The case appears on the Jubilee bracelet, a staple in the Rolex catalog. As with every single other Rolex, the watch is designed to be spectacular to look at and built to a standard that ensures technical and constructive reliability. 

The retail on a reference 126233 is around $12,100, but you can expect to pay slightly more for a second-hand version due to market value. 

12. Rolex Datejust 278275 Silver Floral Motif

The opulent Floral Motif dial finish was introduced to the 31mm Datejust family at Watches & Wonders 2022 in three color variations. This reference 278275 features a silver finish in full Everose gold. 

Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice that each flower has a single diamond set in the center. For the mathematically inclined, there is a total of 24 diamonds on the dial, perhaps a subtle nod to the 24 hours within a day. 

The fluted bezel and President bracelet make this variation even more unique, and yet the watch retains its 100m of water resistance. Behind the mesmerizing dial beats the caliber 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement featuring a 55-hour power reserve. 

13. Vintage Rolex Datejust 1601

If you prefer your Datejust with a little patina and featuring a vintage-inspired acrylic crystal, perhaps a reference 1601 would suit your needs. Featuring classic Datejust proportions with a 36mm diameter and an 11.7 thickness, this particular reference is already a classic. 

Part of the fame comes from being the last reference to feature an acrylic crystal. The other reason is the versatility of the watch. Available in steel, yellow gold, rose gold, or a combination of those, but always featuring a fluted bezel finished in either yellow, rose, or white gold. 

While the water resistance is rated at 100m, being a vintage piece, you must have the watch’s water resistance checked and certified before diving. Internally, the watch is powered by the caliber 1565 or caliber 1575, the latter being more robust and offering a quick-set function for the date. 

As you might expect from the crown, the reference 1601 came with numerous dial finishes, ranging from silver to golden sunburst, but also includes more colorful variations like blue and gray. 

14. Vintage Rolex Datejust Oysterquartz

In the 70s, the Swiss watch industry was hit with a bit of a dilemma – Japanese quartz movements. Japanese watch giant Seiko released The Astron in December 1969. Quartz watches, of course, do not require an automatic movement and are incredibly accurate – way more than anything Rolex was producing at the time. 

Swiss watch stocks fell rapidly, and while certain companies released some of their most legendary pieces in that time, thanks to Gerald Genta, Rolex tried something else. 

They released the Oysterquartz in 1977. A quartz-powered Rolex featuring an integrated bracelet and a beautifully designed case, ready to take on the rise of far cheaper Japanese watches. 

The design for the watch began in 1972, and merely 25 years after its introduction, it was removed from the Rolex catalog. It is estimated that only 25,000 of these models were created. 

That said, you will likely find several that suit your style. It came with several different dial colors, fluted and smooth bezels, and a linear version of either the Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. 

Personally, the blue Rolex used for these models has evolved beautifully over time, and the watch design fits perfectly with modern tastes for sports watches. 

15. Vintage Rolex Datejust 16234

The reference 16234 is a classic and timeless Datejust, with everything you know and love about the model line. A 36mm elegant size, with 100m of water resistance for wearability, and comes in all different kinds of variations. 

It was also the first reference to use a Sapphire crystal, which is the industry standard today. Produced from the late 80s to early 2000s, the timepiece had two main calibers within – either the 3035 or 3135. 

If you find a watch produced before 1997, you’ll be rejoiced to learn that it can pick up patina because it uses luminous tritium material. You can have your Datejust with diamonds, Roman numerals, baton markers, or Arabic numerals. 

The price you would pay for one of these is the same as with every other vintage watch; it depends. It depends on whether or not it is a complete set, the condition of the piece, if the lume has been replaced, etc. 

Conclusion

If you feel slightly overwhelmed by all the options, don’t worry – we all do. The amount of Datejust options is so vast that it is nearly impossible not to find one for you to fall in love with. Whether you prefer your watch with more sporty or dressy credentials, there is a Rolex Datejust to suit your every need. 

A generally-accepted trope in the watch world is that Rolex is an innovator. Every time Rolex releases an all-new timepiece, you can rest assured that there will be something uniquely pioneering about that watch. The Sky-Dweller is no exception. In fact, this watch may be Rolex’s most understated flex of the century. 

Defined by its technical ingenuity while still holistically representative of the Rolex style, the Sky-Dweller is at once the Swiss giant’s most complicated movement (next to the Yachtmaster II) and one of its most elegant. Regardless of whether you’re a Rolex person or not, I would assert that by the end of this article, you’ll be, at the very least, moderately fascinated with the idea of a Sky-Dweller on your wrist.

Built For Travel – The Story Of The Sky-Dweller

The Sky-Dweller is a watch that, in many ways, defies categorization. It combines practicality with luxurious design and (insane) mechanical complexity. Yet, it feels somewhat understated, devoid of the extra pushers or bezel-mania that Rolex’s more complex movements usually exhibit. Initially released in 2012, the Sky-Dweller was Rolex’s first all-new watch drop since the Yachtmaster was unveiled 20 years earlier, in 1992. 

Originally only available in precious metals, the newbie was far less accessible than many would have liked, with a price tag representing a breakthrough movement and the 18k gold that encased it. However, in 2017, taking pity on the little man, Rolex introduced two new, mostly-steel versions of the Sky-Dweller, making for a more affordable and practical daily wearer.

Hidden In Plain Sight – A Masterpiece Unraveled

As if one isn’t enough, the Sky-Dweller’s 9001 movement boasts a combination of two complications: a dual-time zone (or GMT function) and an annual calendar. The GMT function allows the wearer to display two different time zones simultaneously on the same watch.

The annual calendar function ensures that the watch automatically adjusts to the correct date for all 30 and 31-day months. This is displayed beneath scratch-resistant sapphire as a red-fill in a small window on the relative hour marker. Design genius, pure and simple. 

Practically speaking, this means you’ll only have to make one manual date adjustment per year. Additionally, the Sky-Dweller’s Ring Command Bezel, first introduced in the Yachtmaster II, adds a wonderfully discreet layer of functionality to the watch.

All of these details create a timepiece that is both practical and luxurious, suitable for world travelers, business professionals, and watch enthusiasts alike. With all that said, let’s have a closer look at the various iterations of the Sky-Dweller.

The Best Rolex Sky-Dwellers

1. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326934 (Bright Blue)

The entry-level model for the Sky-Dweller is most commonly spotted with a glimmering blue dial and a case crafted from a Rolex’s own Rolesor – a fusion of Oystersteel and 18k white gold (bezel, hands, and hour markers). The result is a clinically classic aesthetic and a much lighter watch than the full-gold models, which are less resilient against daily wear and tear than steel, a factor that should be cherished on a watch this precious. 

The ref. 326934 is available on the standard Oyster bracelet or a jubilee, with the option of a black or white dial, ideal for those who prefer a monochromatic display, such as myself. Speaking of personal preference, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that the inverted red triangle above the GMT dial looks by far most attractive when set against the blue face.

2. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326933 (Bright Black)

One of the luxury upgrades to reference 326934 sees yellow gold replacing white gold for the polarising two-tone, ‘Money Never Sleeps’ case finish. With black, white, and champagne dial color options, this one may surprisingly be the most exciting of the Sky-Dweller variations.

The watch’s bezel, winding crown, hands, hour markers, and center links of the bracelet are made of solid 18k yellow gold, bolstering the visual resemblance to the Datejust. It should be said that despite its 42mm diameter, the sloped and fluted bezel gives the watch a lower profile on the wrist, which is somehow more seamless on this two-tone reference.

Finally, the jubilee bracelet adds an understated touch of finesse, complimenting the fluting of the bezel sublimely in its patterning. However, if a jubilee strap isn’t your thing, you’re in luck – the 326933 is available on an Oyster strap, as well as with champagne and white dial options.

3. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326935 (Slate)

You wouldn’t be blamed for thinking that the 326935 was ostensibly released to showcase the beauty of Everose gold, which offers a slightly different hue and luster than traditional rose gold. The metal provides a modern versatility that Rolex has embraced and integrated into their more recent offerings – it’s precious enough to be taken seriously but unusual enough not to feel too stern. 

The Slate dial is likely the most legible of all the colors on offer for the Sky-Dweller, except the more standard (and less exciting) black variant, which is useful at any rate. With this being said, you do have the option to choose a chocolate or white dial for your 326935 should the slate be too easy to read.

The full Everose Sky-Dweller on an Oyster bracelet, featuring a slate dial, retails at $49,350, which is just enough to make your jaw tighten, but not so much that you’d say ‘never happening’. Especially if the rose gold look is your thing.

4. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326938 (Champagne)

The first full yellow gold Rolex Sky-Dweller on this list, ref. 326938 is an iconic piece in the collection. As on the aforementioned models, the latest update has replaced alternatives of more complex numerals with riveting luminous batons, enhancing the watch’s visual clarity and legibility in low-light conditions. Honestly, I think the lume looks best up against all of this gold. It just…dances. 

Unsurprisingly, the 326938 serves as an anchor for the collection, alongside the immensely popular 326934. You can’t argue with an all-gold-watch, and with the beloved champagne dial, this one really shines, figuratively and literally. However, if Champagne doesn’t suit, this reference is also available with a bright black or intense white dial. Don’t say Rolex isn’t good to you.

5. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326939

Released in 2012, the reference 326939 was part of the first trio of Sky-Dweller watches in solid 18k gold. Unlike its siblings, this model is constructed entirely from 18k white gold, giving it a more understated look with all the heft. It features a matching gold Oyster bracelet and was in production until 2018.

When it first came out, Rolex had secured no less than 11 patents relating to the movement of this, their newest watch, so to release it with anything less than a full body of precious metal would have been a disservice to the R&D department, at the very least. 

A notable visual difference between this and later references is the Roman or Arabic numeral variations, as well as the fact that only two dial colors – black and white – are available. It’s a bit more ‘mature’ at face value, thanks to the more commonly found Roman numeral versions, so bear that in mind before buying.

6. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326139

The reference 326139 shares the same solid 18k white gold case and dial options as the aforementioned 326939 but features a classic leather strap instead of an Oyster bracelet, making this an altogether more casual affair. The leather strap comes with a gold fold-over clasp which adds a touch of weight (and class), and is secured to the case with lug hoods that extend under the bezel to fill the gap between the case and the strap’s edge. 

This touch actually creates the pleasant illusion that the watch sits a bit lower on the wrist. Little things matter, and on a large-wearing 42mm reference, every micrometer counts! As with the 326939, this piece is most commonly available with either Roman or Arabic numerals on a white or black face, although chocolate and gold faces have also been spotted in the wild.

7. Rolex Sky-Dweller 326138

Rolex’s earliest solid 18k yellow gold iteration of the Sky-Dweller, reference 326138, comes with a leather strap as opposed to the expected yellow gold bracelet. It’s also available in an Everose gold variation, offering a left-of-center alternative for the more adventurous color-blockers among us. 

Like other leather and rubber Oysterflex strap models, this version benefits from lug hoods that merge case and strap seamlessly, creating a more integrated look. If you’re into complicated numerals, you can have them on this reference, but I’d stick with the plain baton indices as they gel so much better with the month display windows.

First Class, Everywhere, All The Time

Let’s call a spade a spade – the Sky-Dweller isn’t an everyman’s watch. It’s somewhat pricey, very complex, and uniquely bold. Furthermore, it’s not a watch without its negatives – a 14 mm thick timepiece will be cause for concern on most wrists, and due to its lug width, it certainly wears slightly larger than 42mm. However, I’m hyper-aware (as you should be) that the concerns of the slim-wristed are largely irrelevant when it comes to the Sky-Dweller. 

To those of you on whom this watch sits comfortably, I say congratulations, particularly if you’re a frequent traveler who can take advantage of its myriad functionalities. If, on top of that, you’re a geek for complicated movements, then there are very few timepieces that are more interesting or exciting than the Sky-Dweller.

Timeless and iconic design. Rugged reliability and comfort on the wrist. The pursuit of timekeeping excellence and a marketing machine spanning fields as varied as scientific research, film, and sport. These are the hallmarks of the Rolex brand and the foundation for which its product remains the premier Swiss luxury watchmaker.

In its over 100 years of history since its founding by Hans Wilsdorf in the early 20th century (comparatively young by watchmaker standards), Rolex as a brand has become the market-leading powerhouse with many innovations, historic firsts, and iconic model lines under its belt. 

From the first water and dustproof “oyster” case in 1926 to the “perpetual” self-winding rotor patented in 1931, the focus on rugged timepieces which could withstand the rigor of everyday life set them on course to standardizing what would eventually become today’s “sport watch” genre. In 1953, the “Oyster Perpetual Submariner” is revealed.

About the Rolex Submariner

2025 marks the 71th Anniversary of the Rolex Submariner. Debuting in 1953, though not the first of its kind (Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms diver watch nearly 10 months prior), the reference 6204 “Submariner” was a true tool watch intended for a specific purpose: scuba diving. 

In the Post World War II era of the early 1950s, thanks to technological advancements made in the years during the war, recreational diving was experiencing a boom. Yet divers needed a way to time their dives to ensure a safe ascent. Ascend too fast, and you face the risk of decompression sickness (which could result in death).

Stay down too long, and you might not have enough air to ensure a timely ascent. However, technology was limited at the time, and the recreational diver relied on simple tools such as depth gauges and decompression tables. The dive watch was then the perfect solution for measuring time. 

Rolex Submariner Characteristics

So what makes a Rolex Submariner? As a dive watch, there are three important factors for utility (Note: we won’t touch ISO 6425 dive watch standards here): Water resistance, a rotating bezel, and legibility.

Water resistance is self-explanatory (you don’t want water to flood your watch when diving), and even the ref. 6204 featured 100m of water resistance back in 1953 (300m being the standard for modern Submariners today).

A rotating bezel, operated by aligning the bezel pip to the minute hand upon the start of your timing interval, allows for accurate timing of your dive. The Submariner’s bezel displays 60 minutes along the full circumference, with hashed-out individual minute marks from 0 to 15, post-1957 (ref. 6536/1).

And finally, legibility, through luminous dial markers, hands, and lume pip, ensures the user can clearly see the watch underwater in various lighting conditions. 

The Submariner’s now iconic lume plots (rectangular indices at 3, 6, and 9; inverted triangle at 12, and circular indices at each remaining hour mark), along with the emblematic Mercedes hands (beginning 1954, ref. 6205), have become the defining characteristics of not only the Submariner line but arguably the design traits and personality of the brand’s sports models overall.

Through The Years

In the decades since, the design language and function of the Submariner line have evolved in accordance with the new technologies and materials of the day. And yet, from a design standpoint, the Submariner remains evergreen: rotating bezel, luminous indices, Mercedes hands, etc.

For example, an owner of an original Submariner from the 1950s would still recognize a modern Submariner to be the same watch, much in the way that the Porsche 911 has evolved over the years while maintaining its core DNA. 

Crown guards were added in 1959; depth ratings got deeper (from 100 and 200m to the current 300m); dials went matte to glossy; indices got bigger (“maxi” dials of the ref. 5512 and modern); corrosion-resistant 904L steel was introduced (1985); and even a date wheel version was added (ref. 1680 in 1969, along with the iconic “cyclops” window), among countless other advancements.

Today, while the many vintage variants now command their own literary dictionaries and secondary market values (“Bart Simpson”, “Swiss Exclamation Point”, “Double Swiss Underline”, “Meters first”; try explaining that to your non-watch friends), the latest generation of the Submariner maintains similar design identity.

In a newly upsized 41mm diameter case (40.6mm in actual measurement), in what was the most significant change to the model line since the jump to the “Super Case” in 2008, with “Cerachrom” ceramic bezel, maxi dial, and updated bracelet with new Glidelock clasp. 

Modern Submariners are beefy, solid, and bold in the most luxurious sense. While arguably still “tool” watches capable of true diving and built to diving spec, there is a definite sense of luxury and bling factor not attributable to pre-ceramic iterations of the past (18k Yellow Gold ref. 1680, etc. notwithstanding). 

No matter how you decide to wear them, there are eight current models available today, varying from 904L Oystersteel (with and without date) to two-tone Oystersteel and yellow gold (black and blue variants available), to full-on solid white gold (with blue bezel) or yellow gold (with black bezel).

All models now feature the 3235 base movements using the patented Chronergy escapement, combining high energy efficiency and dependability with a 70-hour power reserve. Let’s jump into it! 

1. Rolex Submariner 126610LN

The icon itself. Though the Submariner didn’t gain a date window until the ref. 1680 in 1969, it’s truly the Submariner Date that has defined the dive watch genre in the years since. In fact, its date and cyclops window has become synonymous with the Rolex brand itself.

With the introduction of the 126610LN in 2020, we have a return to form despite a jump to 41mm. Compared to the previous generation’s use of controversially thick lugs on the Super Case, we’re now presented with slimmer lugs producing a more balanced case shape down to the bracelet, achieved by widening the lug width to 21mm.

In all other dimensions, the 126610LN wears nearly identical to the last generation (importantly, 48mm lug to lug; 12.3mm thickness). However, the wider bracelet is noticeable on the wrist to the astute or those with experience wearing the 116610LN.

The clasp is now a bit larger and longer and provides 20mm of Glide Lock adjustment in 2mm increments, useful for aiding comfort throughout the day as one’s wrist swells and contracts. Finally, Anti-Reflective coating is now applied to the underside of the sapphire crystal, providing increased legibility at various angles. Available in a standard black bezel and dial configuration, the Submariner Date currently retails for $10,250.

2. Rolex Submariner 124060 “No Date”

Colloquially known as the “No Date” Submariner, the current generation 124060, which also debuted in 2020 alongside its “Submariner Date” brethren, is the true “Submariner”. Though receiving the same upgrades as the 126610LN mentioned prior, the No Date offers collectors a few important traits that make it a favorite for the truly initiated (Read: “watch nerds”).

Heritage: The No Date is a direct descendant of the very first Submariners of the 1950s, with its lack of date and hyper specificity. After all, who needs to know the date underwater?
Aesthetic Balance: The date and cyclops window is “love or hate”. If you prefer a balanced look, the No Date is your only option. Arguably, without the cyclops, the no date is also a bit more under the radar.

Rarity: Though production numbers are not made publicly known by Rolex, we can infer from available models on the secondary market that the No Date is rarer, in a near 2:1 ratio in favor of the No Date. Current retail price: $9,100

3. Rolex Submariner 126613 Two-Tone Models

Rolex debuted the first two-tone Submariner in 1984 (ref. 16803) in both black and blue variants featuring a combination of steel and yellow gold. That line continues through to the latest generation, via the blue bezel and dial 126613LB “Bluesy” and the black bezel and dial 126613LN.

With a yellow gold bezel, crown, and polished center links, the two-tone Submariner variants offer a step up in luxury for those wanting to add a bit more bling against the typical full steel models typically seen. Of note, the 126613 models now feature white dial text instead of gold text seen on the previous 116613 generations. Current retail price: $15,600

4. Rolex Submariner 126618 Solid Gold Models

For a brand as vertically integrated as Rolex, it should come as no surprise that it even makes its own gold. With an in-house foundry, Rolex can ensure strict quality assurance and material integrity. Truly, Rolex gold (in yellow, white, or Everose) is a site to behold AND hold (it’s heavy). For the ultimate in exuberance, look no further than the 126618 (black and blue variants available, 126618LN and 126618LB, respectively). Current retail price; $39,000 

5. Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk”

From its debut in 2010 to its discontinuation in 2020, the 116610LV (often referred to as the “Hulk”) was the first and only Submariner with a green bezel, and dial, whose popularity and demand continue to this day on the secondary market.

Though the use of a green bezel was first applied on the 11610V “Kermit” to mark the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, the combination of the brilliant “green gold” dial along with the increased lug mass of the super case earned the 116610LV the now infamous moniker.

A darling of the secondary watch market boom in recent years, the Hulk now commands prices well above its original retail price if you’re lucky enough to find one. Hulk Smash! Last MSRP: $9,350

6. Rolex Submariner 126610LV “Cermit”

With the discontinuation of the 116610LV “Hulk” in 2020, Rolex released a new green bezel Submariner in the 126610LV. Gone was the “green gold” dial, replaced with a standard black Submariner Date dial. Collectors still debate over which version they prefer, as well as what to actually name the watch. In 2025, two names have stuck most: “Cermit” (as in, Cerachrom bezel ‘Kermit’) and “Starbucks” (based on the popular coffee retailer’s logo).

Whichever name you decide to call it, the 126610LV features all of the technical updates of the latest 41mm Submariner generation, including a new case and calibre 3235 movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The green Cerachrom bezel remains a pleasant differentiator from the standard Oystersteel models; at the very least, “bragging rights!”. Current Retail Price: $10,800

7. Rolex Submariner 126619LB White Gold “Smurf”

In 2008, Rolex released the first Submariner to feature a full 18k white gold case and bracelet to mark the brand’s 100-year anniversary. Contrasting with the white gold was a bright blue dial and Cerachrom bezel, which was quickly named the “Smurf” based on the popular cartoon (collectors love nicknames). When that super case model was discontinued, Rolex replaced it with the current 41mm diameter size 126619LB in 2020, albeit with a standard black Submariner Date dial applied instead.

Decidedly stealth wealth, the white gold could be mistaken for plain old steel from the less discerning. A true “ if you know, you know” watch, though we should really call it the “Sub Zero” now (for the Mortal Kombat fans; what did I say, we really love nicknames). Current Retail Price: $42,000

8. Vintage Rolex Submariner 6204

The first true “Submariner”, produced in 1953. Though a few standard hallmarks of current-generation Submariners are missing, all of the initial design elements were in place from the get-go, starting with the black rotating bezel and dial layout.

Relatively smaller in comparison to today’s standards with a 37mm diameter case and 5.3mm crown, the 6204 still was a serious tool watch rated to 100m water resistance. At its heart, the watch was powered by the caliber A260, Rolex’s most robust automatic movement available at the time. The gilt dial and pencil-like hands were inevitably removed upon later iterations.

9. Vintage Rolex Submariner 6538 “Big Crown”

The year is 1962. Actor Sean Connery plays the role of James Bond in the film Dr. No. A film legend and saga is born. On Connery’s wrist: A Rolex Submariner, reference 6538. The rest is history. Today, the 6538, with its oversized 8mm crown, is perhaps the most iconic and coveted of vintage Rolex sport watches due to its association with the film and character.

One particular example even sold for $492,500 at auction in Christie’s New York in December 2017. Two main variants exist; The “two-line” with two lines of text at the six o’clock position and the “four-line” with four lines of text in the same position, albeit denoting chronometer certification (the first Submariner to feature such).

10. Vintage Rolex Submariner 5514 “COMEX”

The legend of the Submariner is propped up by its association of use in the field by the military and deep-diving research teams. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), a leading French diving company in the 1960s and 70s, worked with Rolex to create the reference 5514 for personal use. As a watch specifically made for COMEX, the 5514 was never sold in public retail, ultimately making it among the rarest of all Submariner models ever produced.

Based on the existing ref. 5513 of the day, the 5514 features a Helium Escape Valve flanked on its left-hand case side (the only Submariner model to ever feature one), with the COMEX logo emblazoned in white just below the center of the dial. A truly rare and sought-after vintage model, examples have sold for over $100,000 in today’s market.

Conclusion

From humble tool watch beginnings to becoming the definitive and most identifiable Swiss luxury watch today, the Rolex Submariner has stood the test of time by maintaining a laser-like focus in its aesthetic design and pursuit of technical excellence.

Few other products in any category can claim such history or success, and the Rolex Submariner has earned its place alongside such undeniable icons. Which Submariner do you choose? 

Watch winders are an essential device for modern automatic watches, as they ensure your watches stay properly wound and are available whenever you want them. This is particularly important when you have an extensive collection of watches.

So, if you want your Rolex watch to always be available and fully powered, having a high-quality watch winder is crucial. But what makes a good watch winder? What features and specifications should you look at for your Rolex watches? And which are the best watch winders for Rolex?

Join me as we discuss the history of watch winders and how they operate, as well as which are the top watch winders for your Rolex collection.

About Watch Winders for Rolex

A watch winder is a device that keeps automatic watches wound and running even when they are not being worn. It replicates the watch’s motion, ensuring that the mainspring stays wound and the watch displays the correct time and date.

The history of the watch winder can be traced back to John Harwood, who invented the automatic watch and later created the first watch winder to showcase the functionality of his invention.

The purpose of a watch winder is to maintain the performance and longevity of automatic watches. The oils and lubricants used in watch movements can dry up or coagulate if the timepiece is left stationary for too long, hindering its performance.

Components like the mainspring can also experience diminished lifespan if they remain in the same position for extended periods. While some argue that modern synthetic lubricants are less affected by inactivity, watch winders are still deemed useful for watches with complications like perpetual calendars or moonphases, as resetting these complications can be time-consuming. For Rolex watches, the need for a watch winder depends on the model. Simple time and date models typically don’t require a winder as they are easy to set manually.

However, watches with complex functions like the Day-Date or Sky-Dweller may benefit from a winder, especially for those who own multiple watches and want to keep them constantly ready. A watch winder can also serve as a secure and visually appealing way to display and protect valuable timepieces. Ultimately, while not a necessity for all watch owners, a watch winder can be a valuable tool for maintaining and showcasing automatic watches.

What to Look for When Buying Watch Winders for Rolex Watches

Design & Materials

When considering a watch winder, the design and materials used are crucial factors to examine. A high-quality watch winder should be well-crafted and durable, ensuring it can withstand regular use and provide long-lasting performance.

Look for winders made from sturdy materials such as wood, metal, or acrylic, depending on your personal preference. The aesthetics of the winder are also important, as it should complement your watch collection and add a touch of elegance to your space.

Pay attention to the details, such as the finish, color, and overall design of the winder, to ensure it aligns with your style and preferences. For example, a winder with a wood casing can provide a classic and sophisticated look, while an acrylic winder offers a modern and sleek appearance.

Additionally, consider the interior lining of the winder. Soft fabric and padded walls protect your watches from scratches and damage while securely holding them in place. By selecting a well-designed and carefully crafted watch winder, you can enhance your timepiece collection’s functionality and aesthetic appeal.

Slots & Features

The number of slots and additional features of a watch winder should be carefully considered. Assess your watch collection and determine how many watches you have with automatic movements.

Choose a winder that can accommodate your collection size, whether it’s a single-watch winder or a multi-slot winder. It’s worth noting that the more slots a winder has, the higher the cost tends to be.

If you’re on a budget, you can opt for a winder for your less frequently worn watches and manually wind the others when needed. Furthermore, consider the specific features that would enhance the usability and convenience of the winder.

For example, programmable rotation modes and turns per day (TPD) settings allow you to customize the winding patterns based on the requirements of your watches. Some advanced models even offer bidirectional rotation, providing versatility for winding watches with different movement types.

Additionally, built-in timers can ensure precise winding control, allowing you to set the desired duration and intervals for winding. Some winders also provide storage compartments for keeping additional watch accessories, such as straps or extra watch bands, organized and easily accessible.

By carefully evaluating the slots and features of a watch winder, you can choose one that effectively meets your specific needs and enhances the functionality of your watch collection.

Operation

Understanding the operation of a watch winder is essential for its effective use. Familiarize yourself with the instructions and functions of the winder to ensure proper operation. Most watch winders are either battery-operated or plug into an outlet.

If you frequently travel, a battery-operated winder may be more convenient, as you won’t need to carry cables with you. Pay attention to the noise level of the winder, as some models are designed to operate quietly, making them suitable for use in quiet environments like bedrooms or offices.

Additionally, consider the power supply options provided by the winder. Ideally, it should offer both a power adapter for consistent energy output when plugged in and rechargeable batteries for on-the-go usage.

This versatility allows you to use the winder in various settings without limitations. To ensure the longevity of your watches and the winder itself, it’s essential to use the winder per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

This includes properly placing the watches on the cushions or holders, setting the rotation modes and TPD according to the watch specifications, and regularly cleaning and maintaining the winder.

By following these instructions and understanding the operation of the watch winder, you can ensure optimal performance and extend the lifespan of your automatic watches.

The Best Rolex Watch Winders

1.  Barrington Single Watch Winder

The Barrington watch winder offers a range of features and qualities that make it stand out in the market. Its sleek and minimalistic design fits well into any modern setting. The winder comes in various colors and finishes, allowing for customization to match personal preferences.

While there are some design flaws, such as the front-facing LED and the high gloss finish attracting dust and fingerprints, the winder’s overall build quality and functionality are impressive.

They feature ultra-quiet motors, adjustable rotation settings, and the ability to change rotation direction, ensuring compatibility with different watch movements. The inclusion of a reference guide for setting up specific watch models is a helpful touch.

Additionally, a convenient feature is the option to daisy chain multiple winders together for simultaneous operation. Despite the higher price point, the Barrington watch winder provides a premium experience that surpasses cheaper alternatives.

Overall, it’s well worth the investment for watch enthusiasts seeking a reliable and high-quality watch winder.

2.  Wolf Cub Single Watch Winder

Introducing the Wolf Cub Single Automatic Watch Winder, a popular choice among watch enthusiasts seeking a reliable and functional accessory. Manufactured by the renowned brand, Wolf, known for its commitment to quality and craftsmanship, this watch winder offers a range of features that make it stand out.

With its compact cube shape and reasonable price point, it provides an ideal solution for winding and displaying a single watch. The winder operates silently with minimal noise and comes with a built-in light indicator.

It ensures the precise number of rotations per day, preventing overwinding and potential damage to your timepiece. The winder can be powered by batteries or a universal power adapter, offering cordless convenience.

With its sleek design, glass front, and lock-in cover, it beautifully showcases your watch while keeping it ready for wear. Backed by a 2-year warranty, the Wolf Cub Single Automatic Watch Winder combines functionality, quality, and aesthetic appeal.

Though it only accommodates one watch and has a slightly higher price than other options, its performance and attention to detail make it a worthwhile investment.

3.  SwissKubik Startbox

The SwissKubik Startbox is also worth considering as a cost-effective and customizable solution for watch enthusiasts seeking a reliable and compact option. Designed with attention to detail and utilizing high-quality materials, SwissKubiK offers a range of features that make it stand out among other watch winders.

With its precise winding program, the winder ensures the correct rotations per day and direction for your specific timepiece, avoiding unnecessary wear. The compact size and battery-powered operation make it versatile and suitable for storage in a safety deposit box.

The customizable settings can be easily adjusted using the provided software, allowing you to meet the unique requirements of your watch collection. The watch winder cuff is available in different sizes, securely accommodating both strap and bracelet watches.

The glass door adds an elegant touch and allows for thicker watches without the risk of hitting the door. With its reliability, quiet operation, and endorsement from prestigious brands, the SwissKubiK watch winder is a top choice for watch collectors who value functionality and quality.

4.  Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder

When it comes to watch winders, the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder stands out as a solid option that offers a blend of style and functionality.

Its high-gloss ebony black finish with chrome fittings gives it an elegant appearance that rivals the sophistication of the SwissKubiK and Wolf watch winders. The soft feel velvet-lined interior provides a luxurious touch and ensures your watch is well-protected.

Compared to the SwissKubiK winder, the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder offers a more affordable price point without compromising on quality. However, it may not have the same level of customization options as the SwissKubiK winder’s software-based programming, for example.

In terms of design, the Rapport Formula winder’s lockable case with a key supplied adds an extra layer of security, distinguishing it from the Wolf watch winder’s more open display.

Overall, the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder strikes a balance between style, functionality, and affordability, making it a compelling choice for watch enthusiasts looking to care for their timepieces.

5.  Wolf British Racing Double Watch Winder With Storage

For those in need of more storage, the Wolf British Racing Double Watch Winder with storage is an excellent choice. Wolf is a renowned brand in the world of watch winders and boxes, known for its heritage and commitment to craftsmanship. The British Racing Green winder showcases elegance and functionality with its vegan leather and gold-toned fluted framing.

With Wolf’s patented technology, you can trust the accuracy and precision of the winding process. The range of rotation options and additional storage features add versatility and practicality. The British Racing Double winder by Wolf provides a comprehensive solution for watch collectors, combining style, protection, and functionality.

6.  Rapport Savoy Watch Winder Safe

The Rapport Savoy Watch Winder Safe offers both storage and winding capabilities for your valuable timepieces.

The Savoy by Rapport of London is a compact and efficient triple-watch winder safe that offers maximum security for your watches. Crafted with a grained leather exterior and featuring a fingerprint-locking system, this safe ensures maximum protection for your timepieces.

The soft velveteen fabric lining and adjustable watch arms keep your watches securely in place, while the virtually silent winding system offers customizable control levels. The LCD touchscreen display control panel allows for precise adjustments of speed, direction, and duration of rotations for each individual winder head.

With its space-saving design and ability to rotate clockwise, anti-clockwise, and bi-directionally, the Savoy provides a reliable solution for maintaining and protecting your watch collection. In comparison to previous winders discussed, the Savoy stands out with its advanced security features and convenient removable storage tray.

While other winders offer similar winding capabilities, the Savoy W651 excels in its compact size and focus on watch safety. Whether you choose to power it with the AC adapter or the backup battery option, this smart and stylish winder safe is ideal for watch enthusiasts looking to keep their timepieces secure and in optimal condition.

7.  Barrington Luxury 4 Watch Winder

Barrington presents a stylish and efficient solution for watch enthusiasts with their 4-watch winder. This winder stands out with its sleek design and closed display case, showcasing Barrington’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

The ability to individually program each rotor with variable settings and the option to choose from multiple rotation directions and turns per day offers a high level of customization to suit different watch models.

The inclusion of luxury features such as ultra-quiet Japanese motors, LED downlights, and a built-in storage drawer further enhances its appeal. In comparison to other winders we discussed, such as the SwissKubiK winder and the Wolf winders, the Barrington 4-Watch Winder offers a combination of style, functionality, and convenience.

Its silent operation, digital display, and remote control add to the overall user experience. With its compact dimensions and AC mains power operation, this winder is a must-have for watch connoisseurs looking to keep their timepieces running smoothly and securely.

8.  Wolf Viceroy 8 Piece Watch Winder

The 8-piece Viceroy watch winder from Wolf truly embodies the epitome of modern luxury, seamlessly blending style and functionality. With its sleek design and precision engineering, this winder offers a range of customizable options to cater to the needs of your timepiece collection.

The backlit LCD display allows for easy control of each winding module, with the ability to set rotations per day between 300 and 1200, doubling the turns with the bi-directional setting. What sets Wolf apart is their precise rotation counting, ensuring that every watch remains in perfect rhythm.

The soft pebble vegan leather exterior and silver silk interior exude elegance, making it a visual delight. In comparison to other winders we discussed, such as the Rapport Formula Single Watch Winder and the Barrington 4-Watch Winder, the Viceroy stands out with its higher capacity and advanced programming options.

The solid wood construction, integrated lock and key, and LED signals add to the overall quality and reliability. The Viceroy by Wolf is the pinnacle of sophistication, providing a seamless blend of form and function for the discerning watch collector.

Conclusion

In conclusion, this selection of the top 8 watch winders for Rolex offers a range of exceptional options to keep your Rolex timepieces in optimal condition. With precision rotation settings, elegant designs, and reliable craftsmanship, these winders provide the care and precision necessary for your valuable Rolex collection. Choose the perfect winder from our list and ensure that your Rolex watches are always ready to accompany you on your daily journeys.

“Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock”. If you suddenly notice this sound from your Rolex, there are two things involved: you either bought a knock-off model, or you own the classic Oysterquartz. Now, your heart’s pacing. You’re furious, maybe even disappointed; your dealer had the audacity to sell a counterfeit. 

Relax. All watches tick. But unlike cheap quartz watches, Rolex watches don’t keep time in the traditional tick-tock fashion. In this article, you’ll learn all about how Rolex watches tick and how the myth they don’t started.

The Origin of the Myth

There’s no denying that many people got into the luxury watch market as a direct result of pop culture. But while I’m not a traditional gatekeeping-type watch enthusiast, I believe you should never let trends influence your taste. You’ll be robbed into splurging and thinking you got a bargain because your favorite artist wore one in a music video.

Meanwhile, you’d have passed on better or comparable affordable options because they’re not trendy.  How is this related to the Swiss luxury watch ticking? The myth started when arguably the greatest rapper alive, Jay Z, said, “Rollies that don’t tick-tock”. This braggadocious lyric has been used by countless artists since then, including A-Listers like Lil Durk and Future. It’s true to some extent, but it’s practically impossible for a watch not to “tick-tock.” 

What Does It Mean When A Watch Ticks? 

The thing about watches is that they all tick. I mean, there’s a sound associated with time itself. You guessed right, “tick-tock tick-tock”. Now why do they make that sound? 

To be clear, the volume of a watch’s movement depends on factors like case material, material quality, escapement components, and sometimes, the manufacturer. The general rule of thumb is that timepieces made with cheap, lightweight materials tick the loudest.  

But this isn’t always the case; some watches, like models with a pin-lever escapement, generally tick loudly because they use metal instead of jewel pins. And quartz movements are usually quieter than mechanical watches, as they contain fewer or no moving parts. 

Anyway, a watch ticks to keep the time running. How it ticks is a direct representation of its internal components/engine/caliber. Or, better yet, its movement. Mechanical watches like Rolex tick faster because they use a complicated mechanical movement rather than quartz, which is a cheaper alternative even though it’s more accurate. 

It’s for this reason, and of course, as a status symbol, that many watch enthusiasts remain watch enthusiasts. And Rolex has been on top of the movement engineering game for decades to keep hardcore enthusiasts infatuated and aesthetic buyers drooling. 

Let’s talk more about how Rolex and mechanical watches tick differently. More specifically, the reason why A-list rappers believe they don’t tick-tock. 

The Sweeping Motion of Rolex and Mechanical Watches

Rolex watches have a second hand that appears to glide through the dial rather than tick-tock. It’s not restricted to the brand, nor is it a novelty. All mechanical watches tick at varying frequencies, including dirt-cheap ones, which are typically faster than quartz. So it gives the illusion that the hand isn’t ticking. 

Here’s what goes on behind the dial. A mainspring passes power into an escapement mechanism, which then saves energy by passing it through a couple of gears to the watch hands. 

Inside the escapement, a balance wheel swings back and forth like a pendulum, while a pallet fork restricts its movement per second to stay accurate. It’s the speed of this pause-and-start interaction that makes the second-hand in mechanical watches tick in a sweep motion.

Mechanical movement watches with a faster balance wheel keep time more accurately and reliably than slower ones. They usually tick between four, six, and eight times per second, or 21,600, 28,000, or 36,000 bph (beats per hour), respectively. 

The only exception is in specialty or vintage watches, like the Antoine Martin Slow Runner 1 Hz, which beats once per second. It took Martin Braun building the largest escapement to achieve this feat in The Slow Runner. But quartz watches achieve this accuracy only at a fraction of the cost of engineering. 

Rolex watches tick 8 times a second, 8 hertz, or 28,000 vph (vibrations per hour). Listen to the tick-tock of the Rolex Submariner, played at 0.25 playback speed, below. 

Rolex Making the Tick-Tock Sound: A Video

In truth, this is a display of outstanding craftsmanship and engineering. If you listen even closer, you can hear the mechanical tune of the balance wheel and gears grinding to set the wheels of time in motion. But it also shows undeniable evidence that “Rollies tick-tock”. Listen with a headset if you’re still in denial. 

Rather than beat on the count of a second, they beat non-stop to make a second and need to be wound when they run out of juice. So this is why Jay Z and the hip hop community consider only a Rolex that “doesn’t tick tock” the symbol of authenticity. 

Quartz watches, on the other hand, beat only once, exactly on the second, which is more efficient and accurate. You’ll see why soon. If that’s your situation, it’s true that a “Rolex doesn’t tick”. It’s most likely a knockoff Rolex with a quartz movement. 

So if you’re asking if a Rolex jerks per second, the answer is no. Only the Oysterquartz (discontinued in 2001) tick-tocks.

Quartz Watches vs Mechanical Watches

Now we’ve established how Rolex does and doesn’t tick. Here’s why quartz watches beat at a single beat per second. And why they’re better timekeepers than any mechanical watch. It’s quite a simple process. 

A quartz crystal is piezoelectric; it can absorb electrical current and convert it into mechanical energy, which powers watch hands. A battery-powered electric circuit sends current to the crystal, which then vibrates 32,768 times in a second. 

The circuit monitors these frequencies and pushes the second hand forward on exactly every 32,768th vibration, which creates that one-tick-per-second (tick-tock) motion. In other words, it’s extremely accurate, just like using a smartphone or computer, since it’s programmed on a circuit board. 

As you can imagine, this is a cheaper and more reliable system than mechanical movements, which require higher expertise and more materials. Not to mention regular maintenance of the engine. All a quartz watch needs is a battery change and regular cleaning. So it’s no surprise that many watchmakers closed down when quartz watches first hit the market in 1970.

The Rolex Datejust OysterQuartz – the first and only Quartz Rolex

The Rolex Oysterquartz is symbolic of a dark era for the luxury watch market – the Quartz Crisis. While some may see it as proof of desperation from the Swiss watch manufacturer, it’s also evidence of stellar engineering and innovation. Rolex spent five years developing two movements that toppled the quartz movement of the day.

And so, in 1977, they dished out what seemed like a Datejust or Day-Date with a quartz movement. It’s still available today as a collector’s watch. It has the dial of a DateJust but with an angular case, an integrated bracelet, and an over-engineered quartz movement.

Some enthusiasts call this movement a hybrid because it was way ahead of its time. It has 11 jewels, a lever escapement, and can self-regulate for super precision. Nonetheless, the point here is that this is the only Rolex watch that tick-tocks.  

Rolex Mechanical Watch Movements

Manual winding watch movements require you to wind the crown when the power reserve runs out (worn or not). Rolex has a handful of them; the majority of their current models carry an automatic movement.

The most iconic hand-wound Rolex I’ve seen so far is the Rolex Cellini Vintage 1974, ref. 4083. Or Rolex Cellini 50505 in an 18k gold case. There’s no denying that this collection was the brand’s flagship for a taste of elegance and classic dress watches.

Yet it offers exceptional value for the money, as far as high-end luxury dress watches are concerned. It’s now reborn in the Rolex 1908 collection and newer Cellini models with automatic movements. The point here is that Rolex’s mechanical watches tick in a sweeping motion.   

Rolex Automatic Movements

The go-to for Rolex luxury watch brands is the self-winding mechanical movement. This kind of movement charges the mainspring for as long as you wear the watch. Using kinetic energy, a rotor behind a case back swings in rhythm with your wrist movement, automatically coiling the mainspring. When unused, it keeps time until the power reserve is depleted.

Current versions of Rolex’s automatic movements beat at 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph).  Alternatively, 8 ticks per second would facilitate the highest level of precision and reliability. Although we’ve seen varying frequencies over the years, Rolex has never produced a movement with a single beat per second. One thing Jay Z was right about, though, was when he said: “Audemars, that’s losing time”. 

Debunking The Myth: “Rolex Watches Don’t Tick”

I hope this article comprehensively and adequately answers the question, “Does a Rolex tick?” for anyone curious. Surely, with this clarity, you understand why giving a straight answer is hard because the question can come from different viewpoints. 

If you’re a fan of rap and have heard the infamous Jay-Z line, he’s fundamentally wrong about Rollies that don’t tick-tock. The second-hand ticks voraciously fast, so it appears as if it’s sweeping the dial. In Jiggaman’s defense, though, it was a sick rhyme to the previous line. Maybe J. Hova meant to say they don’t tick, but they sweep. 

However, if you’re a curious watch owner, then you’re right to be anxious; a Rolex never ticks. Only the vintage Oysterquartz tick-tocks every second. An authentic Rolex watch should “tick-tocks” 8 times per second.