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Although there are plenty of luxury watchmakers on a global scale, I always find something special in German design. If you look in the right places, you won’t have to question much about the quality or retail price.

Whether you’re new to the world of timepieces or have a veteran’s collection, there are likely numerous brands and designs you haven’t heard of.

The list we’re about to go through gives you more than enough variety, including options that are fitting for every budget out there. I always like to remind people that getting into watches should be seen as more of an investment than a mere retail purchase.

Of course, there are too many stellar German watches to list, but I’ve narrowed it down to a blend of personal and industry favorites. For this article, you’ll get a straightforward look into 13 of the best German watches you should consider in 2025.

The History of German Watchmaking

Considering German watchmaking got its start back in the 16th century, it’s safe to say they’ve had some time to perfect the craft. However, development really started to pick up around 1845, and the industry was able to sustain itself through economic shifts and even wartime.

This also includes their era of state-controlled production in East Germany throughout the Cold War. This isn’t to say their industry didn’t go through its fair share of highs and lows, but I’m still impressed with the integrity that was maintained.

As Germany was going through its reunification in the 1990s, modern German watchmaking really hit a new stride. There’s a fine balance between tradition and innovation here, and it shows in the many German watches that are floating around the market in today’s world.

13 Best German Watches

It was hard to choose, but I spent quite a bit of time sorting through a unique list of German watches. Some were more about style, while others had a level of craftsmanship that really helped them stand out from the crowd.

To put a decent list together, I had to dig through all of the specifications and eventually get my hands on one for myself. While I may not add every one of these watches to my own collection, I can still respect the work that goes into them.

For me, these watches made an impression from a visual standpoint, as well as what makes them tick from the inside. Not only do I think you can find some that align with your style, but after a little explanation, you’ll have a newfound appreciation for German watches as a whole.

1. Junkers Bauhaus Automatic (ref. 910.01.12)

Junkers Bauhaus Automatic

Featuring a 40mm stainless steel profile, this automatic watch comes with a deep petrol-colored dial. I’d say that’s a pretty good description, but it also could be seen in a dark blue colorway.

Nevertheless, it’s relatively minimal, and I’m a huge fan of the exhibition caseback. It gives you a good look at the Miyota 9015 movement, and makes for an eye-catching design choice.

While there’s influence from the early 20th-century German industry, it still boasts a modern appeal that looks great with a wide range of outfits. You can also find this watch available in various strap and case combinations if you’d like to switch up the style.

Notable specs on this watch include its Hesalite glass, sealed crown, and 5 ATM water resistance. This tells you it’s definitely not a diver’s watch, but it could do very well in professional environments. 

I found the retail price to be pretty modest too, sitting at $865 out of the door.

2. Augsburg 39mm Automatic (ref. 861988)

Augsburg 39mm Automatic

With a 39mm case in a contrasting stainless steel, the Augsburg is built with a reliable Laco 2S automatic movement.

Keep in mind that this is based on the Miyota 82S0, which includes hacking seconds for extreme precision. I’m always a big fan of an exhibition caseback, and this watch dons a sapphire crystal on the front and back.

If you’re worried about being able to see it in dim lighting, this is a non-issue due to the Superluminova C3. The brown vintage style of the leather strap offers a classic look, and you’d be surprised at the amount of customizations that are available for this watch.

It’s mainly fitting for wrists ranging from 14.5 to 18.5cm, and it comes with a water resistance of only 5 ATM. With a deep black dial among a classic brown strap, the style of this watch is hard to argue with. The overall features and styles are something everyone can appreciate.

The watch is only $410, making it widely accessible to many watch lovers.

3. Stowa Antea Classic KS (ref. N/A)

Stowa Antea Classic KS

The first thing I noticed about this watch is the Bauhaus-inspired design. Familiarity aside, the watch still offers several unique details.

First, it goes a little smaller with the case design at 35.5mm, and they also went the classic route with the stainless steel. I’m a fan of the silver-coated dial, and this comes with black Arabic numerals.

You won’t have to worry about long-term reliability here either, as a Swiss hand-wound Peseux 7001 movement supports it.

Although it’s a minor design choice, my eyes were drawn to the small seconds subdial, which also boasts a nice top-grade finish.

From the side profile, the watch is surprisingly thin at 6.9mm. One detail I find pretty important is that it’s only built with 3 ATM water resistance, which isn’t really much. The leather strap is hand-stitched, or you can go with the Milanaise metal strap for an additional cost. 

You can grab one for yourself for around $1,265, but pricing may vary depending on where you’re looking.

4. Nomos Tangente (ref. 101)

Another modest choice if you ask me, the Nomos Tangente offers multi-layered beauty that goes beyond what you see on the surface. The 35mm case is what initially drew my interest, but that also extends to the 6.2mm thickness, not to mention the included movement.

More specifically, the watch is working with a Nomos DUW 4001 caliber. The white and silver-plated dial offers a refreshing touch and brings a bright personality to any outfit. It boasts a notable Nomos typography, and I really appreciate their choice with the blue steel hands.

For the strap, this isn’t just any regular leather strap; it’s an 18mm black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather. I can always feel the durability in this watch, and a lot of that comes from the security the strap provides.

The price point is a bit higher than the watches listed before it, with a retail cost of $2,120.

5. Sinn 104 St Sa A (ref. 104.011)

Sinn 104 St Sa A

Seen as a classic pilot’s watch, this particular model from Sinn knows a thing or two about professionalism. I tend to like my watches with a no-frills look and a tinge of luxury, and I feel this watch does a good job of combining the two.

It’s a little on the bigger side for me, with a case size of 41mm, but the contrast in the color and material choices helps it seem a bit smaller. You’re getting a stainless steel case, matte black dial, and luminescent hands where it matters most.

The bezel is bidirectional with minute ratcheting and even a luminous triangle at the 12 o’clock position. Learning what makes it tick is important too, and what you’ll find on the inside is SW 220-1 automatic movement. This also comes with a day date display and it’s anti-magnetic per DIN 8309.

It’s definitely more than enough for me, especially once I got a good look at the specs. The retail price is also relatively modest at $1,450.

6. Tutima Flieger Legacy (ref. T5 6405-03)

Tutima Flieger Legacy

Known as a high-performance chronograph, the Flieger Legacy from Tutima is a bold one, to say the least. What I’m really interested in about this watch is its grade 5 titanium case, which is always a personal preference of mine.

That means you’re getting a durable yet lightweight design, in addition to scratch-resistance, antiallergenic, and corrosion-resistance. 

The chronograph functionality promises a 60-second, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter. I honestly appreciate the small seconds and date display, as it doesn’t distract from the beautiful dial too much.

Built with clarity and durability in mind, you get beauty on top of it all with an exhibition caseback and the perfect strap to match. In my opinion, the blue dial is the perfect contrast to the leather strap, including the subtle tone of the surrounding titanium.

The watch is available across many retailers, and price points tend to stay around the $4,683 mark.

7. Damasko DC56 (ref. N/A)

Damasko DC56

The 40mm chronograph might seem like some standard specs, but the watch is much more than that when you get into the fine print. Powered by the Valjoux 7750 TOP movement, it features unique details like an optional silicon hairspring, a silicon escape wheel, and a 52-hour power reserve.

Constructed by what’s referred to as ice-hardened stainless steel, the case is water-resistant up to 100 meters. I was surprised to learn that the watch also meets MIL-STD-810 military standards for pressure, as well as acceleration resistance.

It’s clear that the watch is built to last, from the thorough construction down to the timeless design that’ll never go out of style. Regarding the dial, I have an appreciation for the simplicity in color choice, as the focus is entirely on the tri-compax chronograph layout.

If you’re looking to try one on, they can be found at many reputable retailers across the world. When it comes to the cost, you’re looking at $3,210 and some change.

8. Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia IV Moon Phase Golds (ref. M1-44-03-LB)

Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia IV Moon Phase Golds

The name might be a challenge to pronounce, but the design and prestige of this watch speak for themselves. For myself, I can’t get over the fact that there are only 100 of these in production, making it a limited edition that’s perfect for any watch case. 

Getting down to the specifics, it’s made with a blend of 18-carat yellow gold and only weighs a light 47 grams. The moon phase display is more than beautiful, and although the watch is high-end, I really appreciate the simplicity of it.

The 10mm gold moon disc rotates under a specially shaped window. Even more interestingly, this completes one cycle every 59 days, which promises an accurate and artistic moon phase display. 41mm in diameter and a sizable thickness of 12.6mm, this watch knows how to deliver a bold presence.

After currency conversions, this watch comes with an estimated price tag of $13,834.

9. Archimede Pilot 42 B.S.S (ref. UA7929B-A9.1S)

This watch may seem relatively simple, but that’s part of the point, as the craftsmanship is what matters most here. It includes a Swiss automatic movement, specifically the ETA 2824-2. The case is crafted by ICKLER, which is out of Pforzheim, Germany.

I always appreciate a simple brushed stainless steel look, and as expected, the sapphire crystal helps with consistent legibility. The crown is in a pilot-style, and the screw-down caseback makes for a seamless look with the rest of the steel.

Dimensions are standard, but might feel somewhat large on skinnier wrists. The Archimede Pilot comes with a 42mm diameter with an understandable 9.8mm thickness.

It’s also 51mm lug to lug, and the surrounding numerals and hour markers illuminate the jet black dial. I love the choice of blue hands and their luminous coating, as the perfect touch of contrast to the surrounding design choices.

It’s also pretty affordable considering the quality, featuring a retail price of $1,289.

10. Hanhart Pioneer MK I (ref. 714.200-)

Hanhart Pioneer MK I

Boasting a 40mm profile and a single-button chronograph, I’d say this watch found the perfect midway point between luxury and affordability. It’s built with a fluted bezel, in addition to a red marking, red pusher, and sizable crown for ease of use.

What I love most about this watch is the antique white dial, which is more than luminous in dim lighting. The case is a reliable stainless steel, coupled with a convex sapphire crystal, which is notably AR-coated.

The calfskin leather strap is not only durable, but the perfect stylistic choice and comes in several colorways. With a 20mm lug width and pin buckle, the watch is more comfortable than it looks at a glance.

As far as the movement goes, wearers benefit from years of reliability with the HAN3601, promising a 42-hour power reserve. 

The cost is a little higher than some others on this list, but still affordable at $3,143.90 on the dot.

11. Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph (ref. D009.427.16.092.00)

Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph

You have several options to choose from when it comes to the Belisar collection, but this particular model stood out to me. It offers something a little different from the rest, primarily found in the Earth green colorway. While that’s what initially caught my eye, it’s the specs that kept me around.

It’s powered by the UNG-27.S1 automatic chronograph movement, and it’s a lot more impressive the deeper you look. This also comes with a silicon balance spring, 65-hour power reserve, and three chronograph counters.

Accompanied by a green nubuck leather strap, the watch is definitely meant to make a statement on the wrist. You can blend it with like colors or wear it as an eye-popping statement piece.

I’m also into the retro-style numerals, and I feel that’s a pretty fitting choice as the surrounding design and colorway match the style perfectly.

If you like the sound of this Belisar, you can add it to your collection for $3,458.

12. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin (ref. 201.033)

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

There are three different models in the Saxonia Thin line of watches here, but the pink gold is a must, in my opinion. Aside from its overall beauty, the specs seem to hit a sweet spot with a 37mm case crafted from 18-carat pink gold.

As you might have figured out by now, I love an exhibition caseback, and the technical details here are astounding.

For the movement, it operates at a balance frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. If you aren’t too sure about what this means, it leads to smooth and reliable timekeeping for the long term.

The silver dial is a great match for the surrounding pink gold, yet doesn’t take the spotlight from its elegance. I honestly appreciate the slim take on this watch, as it wouldn’t look as elegant if they took a bulkier direction. 

For the price point, you’re looking at a steep commitment of $24,800.

13. Lang & Heyne Friedrich III (ref. N/A)

Lang & Heyne Friedrich III

For the last entry in the list, I had to take things up a notch and shine a light on the Friedrich III from Lang & Heyne. Calling the watch refined almost doesn’t do it enough justice, as it takes craftsmanship and style to significant heights.

Built with the Caliber VI manual winding movement, wearers get a 55-hour power reserve and a level of visual harmony that’s unmatched. Other details that impressed me even further include the decentralized seconds and the overall elegance of the numerals and hands.

The dial comes in a solid silver, but you can also get it in galvanic black, bright frosted, salmon, and even a royal blue color. Each of these is gorgeous and does well to complement the surrounding details. It features a modest 39.2mm case and only 10.5mm thickness, so it shouldn’t feel too bulky.

There’s a lot to unpack with this watch, and if you’d like to try one on permanently, it can be found starting at $30,800.

The Bottom Line

Part of finding a high-end German watch starts with sourcing reputable retailers. This is especially true once you start getting to higher price points on the market. Nevertheless, there are plenty of quality German watches that you can find in your price range.

Understandably, it can be challenging to find the right fit for you, which is why working with a reputable retailer can be so helpful. Consider speaking with Exquisite Timepieces for an expert’s opinion on German watches and how to find the best model for your collection.

best classic watches

Geezer Watches Galore! The 15 Best Classic Watches in 2025

Marcus Henry

October 23, 2025

Introduction

With the watch industry’s current preference for more svelte proportions, classic watches are having their day in the sun.

Often affectionately referred to as “geezer watches” for their resemblance to the sort of thing you’d spot on the wrist of a kindly old man puttering around the golf course, this genre nonetheless holds profound appeal for all ages thanks to its synthesis of vintage design and modern craftsmanship.

Many of the most elegant and well-known watches find themselves firmly ensconced within this category, from the Patek Philippe Calatrava to more modern creations by brands like Parmigiani Fleurier.

Whether you’re looking for that next oh-so-debonair dress watch or just here for a listing of some of the best watches ever made all in one article, you came to the right place.

Classic watches are having their moment, and it’s time to put the spotlight on the very best of the best to celebrate this fine horological tradition.

What to Know for Buying Classic Watches

Any true classic watch is designed not to be brash or eye-catching, but to repose calmly and with self-assurance on your wrist. They’re not meant to be loud like an MB&F Horological Machine or even something more simple like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Instead, a classic watch is designated by the quality of craftsmanship that permeates each of its features, from the visible ones to even the finest parts of the movement. It riffs on traditional design elements in new combinations and layouts to make something strikingly new.

This quality of craftsmanship includes several specific details that I want to encourage you to keep an eye out for when you’re looking at any classic watch, whether it’s one of the ones I’ve got on this list or your own future searches.

First up, you’ll want to pay special attention to the quality of material used. Gold and platinum are not uncommonly seen forming the case of fine classic watches, thanks to the intrinsic value that they bring.

In particular, white gold and platinum watches can be considered the “essence” of a good classic watch, as they supply a sense of confidence and value to the watch that cannot be discerned at first glance due to their resemblance to steel.

The best classic watches will have well-finished cases from fine precious metals, usually in a 14K or 18K grade to maintain some durability.

After the material of the case, you’ll want to look at the degree of finishing that adorns the movement and the dial. High-quality, handmade finishing takes a master artisan hours to complete, but its effect is positively radiant and it adds a significant amount to the value of any watch.

The finishing of a classic watch is arguably even more important than that of other watches, as these are meant to be high-value pieces with long-lasting appeal attained by artisanal craftsmanship.

Finally, a little bit of real talk. Though in theory a watch should stand entirely on its own merits, the brand name that is attached to it often plays a key role in establishing the value of each watch, and this is all the more true for simply and classically-styled watches.

A good classic watch is designed to be timeless and enduring, something that you can pass down to the next generation (as Patek Philippe has famously adopted for their slogan), and for such a timepiece to retain its value, it must be associated with a brand name that has a history of producing beautiful and valuable watches.

As such, if you pay careful attention to the materials, the finishing, and the brand of each watch, it’s nearly impossible to go wrong. Your next classic watch awaits—let’s get right into the list!

The 15 Best Classic Watches

Now that introductions are made, let’s jump right into the article! Each one of these watches will be evaluated according to the qualities that I set forth above, typically with special thought to pointing out things that you might have missed and leaving the others up to your scrutiny.

Each one of these watches represents the pinnacle of horological classicism: it’s hard to do better than a watch from this list, or one similar.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 ref. 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01 – Price on Request

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 ref. 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01

There’s very, very little in AP’s catalog that’s even slightly suggestive of being classic. From the sports watch genre-defining Royal Oak to the avant-garde Code 11.59s, I was pretty sure I was going to have to rule out the watchmaker from Le Brassus from this listing.

And then I stumbled across this reference which I’d forgotten, a marvelously elegant timepiece featuring a rich black onyx dial and a sublime minimalism of text and other adornment.

Don’t be fooled by that white-metal case: it’s high-quality 18K white gold, and it’s paired with black ceramic that serves to highlight the darkness of the dial.

Flip the watch over, and you’ll be regaled with just as much of a treat as the front: Audemars Piguet’s exquisite cal. 2950, with a stunning flying tourbillon, automatic winding, and a 65-hour power reserve. Oh, and the finishing is flawless. Just be careful you don’t get sucked into that black hole of a dial!

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 ref. 137.033 – Price on Request

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 ref. 137.033

At first glance, the Lange 1 seems to defy standard conceptions of classicism in watches. After all, you’ve got subdials seemingly scattered over the face of the watch and a large date window.

And yet as you examine it, the layout of this elegant German timepiece reveals itself to be deeply traditional in feel.

This is thanks to the classical design principles A. Lange & Söhne followed in its creation: the golden ratio and axial arrangement, using a proportional triangular layout to guide your eye.

Indeed, that traditional structure paired here with an exquisite pink gold case and rich gray dial makes for an elegant watch that is also strikingly practical thanks to its date window and power reserve.

The movement on the inside, a key element for any classic watch, is capable of going toe-to-toe with such horological heavyweights as a Patek Philippe: it’s exquisitely finished and crafted from German silver, which acquires a warm patina with the progression of time.

Gold châtons, blued screws, and Glashütte stripes are completed by a classic German touch: a hand-engraved balance cock. This is the pinnacle of classicism complemented by original design.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold – $41,300

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold

This new-to-2025 stunner is one of the few cases where the bracelet is almost as superb as the watch itself. Just take a look at the elegance of that Milanese mesh, crafted like the case from 18K pink gold and woven to attain unmatched suppleness and ease of motion.

The dial is simple, clean, and minimal, but spectacularly finished with a rich matte texture. And just like any other Reverso, you can flip it over to protect the dial and reveal the smooth metal caseback, a field perfect for personal engraving.

Though the movement is obscured, you can be assured that it’s of the highest quality, JLC’s in-house caliber 822 with 42 hours of power reserve and such remarkable thinness that allows this reversible watch to clock in at just 7.56mm thick overall, making for an easy under-cuff companion.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227J-001 – $44,870

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227J-001

This is the classic watch. The ultimate, the pinnacle of what a round dress watch should be. The ultimate purity of line and simplicity: a Patek Philippe Calatrava. Specifically, this stunning model in yellow gold, with a hinged officer caseback to protect the movement.

In many ways, it’s perfect. An exquisitely polished yellow gold case pairs with a gently gold-toned dial, complemented by an unobtrusive framed date window.

It’s simple, but its complexity is revealed as you begin to go deeper. That doré dial? Lacquered ivory. Those elegant hands and hour markers? Applied and polished by hand by master artisans. Everything executed to perfection.

Not satisfied with just the case and dial? Don’t worry, the movement will placate you. It’s a Patek Philippe, so it’s one of the finest imaginable: the caliber 26-330 S C, with automatic winding, 45 hours of power reserve, and perfect finishing. You won’t be able to resist popping open that officer caseback from time to time just to have a look!

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel – $33,890

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel

To be fair, this H. Moser is not exactly what comes to mind when a watch lover says “classic.” But in my defense, that’s kinda the point: H. Moser loves to push against expectations and create elegant and striking timepieces just like this one.

Sure, it may be a steel case rather than precious metal. And the dial may be far from the simplicity that some of the others on this list take pride in.

But that stunning centerpiece, rich purple fumé enamel over a hammered metal base to form the dial, is a masterpiece of traditional technique and classical watchmaking. 

Flip it over, and you’ll have my final proof of its classicism: the stunning caliber HMC 201, an automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve and stunning finishing.

Though it may be colored strikingly with pink gold accents on dark rhodium plating, it’s a beautifully executed movement that exudes tradition.

Cartier Tank Américaine Yellow Gold – $17,300

Cartier Tank Américaine Yellow Gold

I’ve been having a bit of a thing lately for the Tank Américaine, and it’s not hard to see why. It takes a superb classic—the original Cartier Tank—and riffs on it just enough to create another icon altogether.

It’s quintessential Cartier and oozes classicism: just take a look at the finely crafted yellow gold case, sapphire-set crown, Roman numerals, and blued sword hands.

Its simplicity means Cartier has a chance to perfect every imaginable detail: for example, the Tank Américaine is known for the surprising curvature of its case, which allows it to adhere perfectly to the wrist.

Underneath the hood, you won’t have quite as much to write home about as many of the others on this list, but it’s still Cartier’s automatic caliber 1899 MC, with quite decent finishing and an amply-sized balance wheel.

But if you’re buying a Cartier, you’re buying design and style, and thankfully, the Tank Américaine has that in spades.

Lorier Neptune Series IV – $500

Lorier Neptune Series IV

And now for something totally different! The Lorier Neptune is a bit out of place on this list, considering both its price tag and its design, but rest assured, this is a classic watch through and through.

It was designed as if it came straight out of the 1950s, gilt accents and all. Thanks to its shockingly slim price tag, it fits perfectly in the “fun” category that should have a place in any collection: a classic, vintage-inspired piece that you can pick up for less than a tenth the price of a more serious watch from this list.

The movement here is nothing too special—a Miyota 90S5—but honestly, for its price, it’s a little astonishing that it’s even mechanical at all, let alone a brand-name, automatic Japanese movement.

This is classic 50’s design at its peak in a modern watch, and frankly, it’s probably the best-looking diver you’ll see all day.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Minute Repeater – Price on Request

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Minute Repeater

Like A. Lange above, Jaquet Droz has played ever so slightly with the standard conception of “classic” watch design while managing to produce something that continues to feel profoundly traditional.

Here, they’ve paired their lovely Grande Seconde design—where the seconds subdial is actually larger than the standard one—with a superbly crafted minute repeater to chime out the time on demand. 

Inside, that minute repeater is made possible by Jaquet Droz’s cal. 2635, an automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve.

The movement is beautifully finished, and the oscillating rotor features an exquisite guilloché pattern that you could easily spend half an hour studying on its own.

My favorite touch? The way the ivory-colored enamel dial and the subtle treble clef sign by the minute repeater slider combine to evoke the artistry of a well-made piano. I don’t know about you, but as a musician… that’s just music to my ears.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ref. 220.037 – $24,500

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ref. 220.037

Here’s another beautiful example of Lange doing what they do best: making stunning classic timepieces. In this case, we’ve stripped away all the fluff of the Grand Lange 1 we looked at earlier.

This is a pure, time-only dress watch, with Lange’s trademark alpha hands and a classy small seconds subdial. Everything is executed perfectly, with class and charm.

It’s hard to find more to discuss in-depth on the dial side, but I personally guarantee that with the watch in hand, you’ll find it nothing short of exceptionally well-done.

Turn the watch around, and you’re treated to yet another display of why A. Lange & Söhne is spoken of with the utmost respect in collector circles.

This may be a time-only watch, but the gorgeous finishing here is anything but simple. Anyone who knows what they’re looking at is guaranteed to drool over this exhibition of the utmost artistry: Glashütte stripes, hand-engraved balance cock, free-sprung hairspring, gold châtons, blued screws, mirror-polished swan neck regulator—must I go on?

Felipe Pikullik Sternenhimmel – $14,000

Felipe Pikullik Sternenhimmel

If I was given free rein to design my own dress watch, it would end up looking something an awful lot like this. (I know, because I’ve tried.)

In many ways, the Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) is an ode to the beautiful simplicity of classic watchmaking, while breathing new life into it through a modern lens.

Take, for example, the dial: it’s not enamel or guilloché, it’s fine aventurine, a man-made glass that mimics the appearance of the night sky and, in this author’s opinion, provides a far richer surface to look at than any simple enamel color. 

That same theme continues even more profoundly on the back, where you can see the stunning contrast of black rhodium-plated bridges against the stunning gold of the wheels.

The eagle-eyed among us will of course recognize here a Saxonian watchmaking staple: the hand-engraved balance cock.

Don’t let yourself miss as well the rich anglage that adorns each of the skeletonized bridges: the true mark, above all others, of haute horlogerie finishing.

Patek Philippe 5236P-010 – $148,331

Patek Philippe 5236P-010

“Classic” and “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar” are words often spoken in the same breath. At least, while I’m talking, that is. In this case, the stunning reference 5236P-010 puts a modern spin on the maison known best for their QPs.

Here, the salmon dial and black faceted indices and hands that feature to such great effect in Patek’s new Calatrava make an equally stunning showing framing this minimalistic calendar display.

Moon phase, day, date, month, leap year, and even day/night indication can all be found from the various small windows carved into this lovely salmon canvas.

“But what of the movement?” I hear you cry, slavering for more. Fear not, for it is worthy of the six-figure price tag (as much as any watch can be, that is).

Patek’s in-house caliber 31-260 PS QL features a platinum micro-rotor to keep it slim and some beautifully executed anglage and Côtes de Genève. It’s a Patek, what did you expect?

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Pink Gold

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Pink Gold

Bouncing from one member of the watchmaking Holy Trinity to another, we’ve got ourselves here another prime example of classic watchmaking executed in a profoundly vintage style.

Here on full display, both in terms of the actual watch and its name, are the cornes de vache lugs, or cow horns. They complement the dial perfectly and help the watch to spread out more over the wrist, not to mention looking pretty dang good themselves.

When you’re done looking at the lugs, you might notice that you’ve also got a pretty good-looking opaline dial with a chronograph and a tachymeter for calculating average speed… but then again, you might not.

On the flip side, you’ve got an absolutely stunning movement, a dynamic mass of gears, levers, and bridges that forms the architecture of Vacheron’s column-wheel chronograph.

It’s so good that it’s received the official Geneva Seal from the city of Geneva for being made according to traditional principles and featuring exquisite finishing.

On that latter note, be sure not to miss the gorgeous anglage—it’s on full display here, perfectly executed on just about every possible surface.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-rotor Evergreen – $87,950

Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-rotor Evergreen

Laurent Ferrier is one of those independent brands that’s becoming increasingly mainstream, and for good reason: its offerings, across its four collections, are characterized by a strong design language that’s instantly recognizable and beautifully captivating.

In particular, you’ll be struck by the gorgeous shaping of the case, which has a unique fluidity of line, and the special assegai spear hands, an instantly recognizable trademark of the brand.

All of this complements flawlessly with the rich and smooth green of the dial, which is faintly brushed to achieve a subtle matte finish.

The finishing on every Laurent Ferrier is characteristic of a man whose career was marked by 37 years spent at Patek Philippe. Everything, down to the finest imaginable detail, is exquisitely done.

Every French finishing term you can imagine is thrown into the mix here, so much so that I dare not list them all. I encourage you to merely regard it for yourself—it is quite nearly beyond words.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold – $59,027

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold

I’m head-over-heels in love with Parmigiani Fleurier’s vision of watchmaking, and with this piece in particular. It was conceived following the exacting principles of the golden ratio, which seems particularly apt for a timepiece characterized by such a perfect golden hue.

At first glance, you’d be forgiven for writing the dial off as just a simple matte finish—but look closer, and an extremely fine grenage pattern is revealed, a variant of a frosted finish.

Likewise, many fine details of superb craftsmanship reveal themselves in the refined shape of the alpha hands and the pronounced engravings of the knurled bezel.

That same attention to detail extends itself just as much to the movement as it does to the watch’s façade. The PF780 movement is positively superb, with each of its solid gold(!) bridges decorated with the unique Côtes de Fleurier pattern.

In typically Parmigiani Fleurier fashion, they’ve chosen to obscure almost all the gears with ample bridges, leaving their spectacular craftsmanship humbly hidden from view. What is visible, thankfully, is more than enough to please the eye of even the most jaded watch collector.

Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 – $53,600

Breguet Classique Souscription 2025

Closing out the list, we have another new-to-2025 watch to prove that it’s been a spectacular year for classic watchmaking.

The Breguet Souscription is as classic as it gets, as it was inspired by the souscription pocket watches famously made by the brand’s eponymous founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. As such, only a single hand adorns the dial, which is itself beautifully printed with enamel Breguet numerals. 

But the movement is where things get really fun. The movement, just like the dial, is inspired by Breguet’s souscription pocket watch, which makes it traditional and classic in the fullest sense.

Each gear receives its own individual bridge, and the ample barrel is engraved with writing in handwriting taken from one of Breguet’s letters. In my humble opinion, this is the best movement on this list, and perhaps the best we’ll see all year.

Conclusion

Classic watches are having their day in the sun, and it’s time to celebrate that. Whether you’ve found your next addition to your collection on this list or you’re just here to enjoy some gorgeous watches, I hope you go forth satisfied. And let’s be honest… as a watch lover, what more could you ask for?

best china brand watches

The 20 Best China Brand Watches That Might Surprise You

William Boyd

October 22, 2025

When people think of products made in China, the word “cheap” often comes to mind… sometimes fairly, sometimes not. It’s true that China has long been known for its fast, large-scale manufacturing.

But in recent years, the country has been carefully rewriting that narrative, especially in the world of watchmaking.

Most of us know China as a global leader in technology, design, and innovation. They’re miles ahead from the rest of us, which means they can mass-produce a smartwatch for under $50 and at the same time, handcraft a mechanical masterpiece that rivals even some of the biggest known Swiss icons.

Yes, you’ll always find low-cost options on the market but if you look hard enough, you can also find several Chinese made timepieces that are beautifully engineered, created with high levels of precision, creativity, and surprising levels of luxury.

In this blog, we’re looking at 20 China brand watches that prove this, from smaller microbrands to larger watchmakers you might have already heard of.

Are Chinese Watches Any Good?

Like most things, it really comes down to what you’re looking at. The reality is, there are plenty of watches floating around the internet that, to put it gently, aren’t all that great and they’re often made in China. I’m talking about those watches that are so cheap, they almost feel too good to be true. Which is often the case.

They’re typically made from low-grade materials, powered by movements that barely function and more often than not, feature designs that are just knockoffs of bigger-name brands. And look, no shame if you’ve ever wanted something that looks like a Rolex Day-Date without the painful price tag.

I can’t afford a Rolex either. But in my opinion, you’re much better off choosing a watch that’s actually a watch. One that can keep the time, handle more than a few hours of daily wear and actually comes from people who genuinely care about what they’re making.

Because the truth is, while some Chinese watches are clearly made to be sold fast and forgotten faster, there’s also a growing number that are designed with real passion.

The brands listed below are doing exactly that, making watches that are stylish, functional, and built with surprising levels of care.

They’re proof that Chinese watchmaking isn’t just about affordability, but about creativity, quality and craftsmanship. These are the Chinese made watches worth your time, attention and wrist real estate.

The Best China Brand Watches

With all that in mind, let’s get into it. Below are 20 of the best China brand watches that are doing it right. Some you might have heard of already, while others will no doubt be completely new to you. And let’s be honest, there’s nothing better than finding a new hidden gem in the world of watches.

Addiesdive

Addiesdive

If you’re looking for an affordable dive watch, then Addiesdive is a Chinese watchmaker worth knowing. Despite having shockingly low retail prices, they’ve built a solid reputation for creating rugged, well-specced timepieces that punch well above their price point.

Many of the designs feel familiar, with several reminding me of classic Seiko dive watches and some even named after iconic Seiko nicknames like “Monster” and “Turtle”. And to their credit, they don’t just copy the look but come surprisingly close in feel too.

Most Addiesdive watches are powered by reliable Japanese automatic movements like the NH35A and are fitted with sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, and 316L stainless steel cases, features you’d normally expect from watches costing much more.

Water resistance ranges from 200 meters to 1000 meters, making them perfectly capable for casual diving and daily wear alike. The one downside that many report on is the metal bracelets, so that’s something to keep in mind. But thankfully, it’s an easy part of the watch to swap out.

Prices start from $42.99

Atelier Wen

So, from surprisingly affordable to a little more elevated, we now have Atelier Wen. Founded by two young entrepreneurs with roots in both French and Chinese culture, this company wanted to create a brand that celebrated Chinese craftsmanship not as a cost-saving shortcut, but as a point of pride.

The name itself says it all, Atelier (French for workshop) and Wén (文, Chinese for culture), is a nod to the fusion of design, heritage, and artistry that defines each timepiece.

While many brands shy away from showcasing their Chinese production, Atelier Wen leans all the way in, collaborating with local artisans and proudly spotlighting traditional techniques like hand-engraved guilloché dials and intricate case finishing.

Their best-known model, the Perception, has become a cult favorite, thanks to its beautifully executed integrated bracelet design and genuinely hand-crafted details, yet it still clocks in under $4,000.

Prices start from $3,320

Behrens

Now, stepping fully into the world of modern innovation, we have Behrens. Founded in 2012 in Shenzhen, a city quickly becoming China’s horological hotspot, Behrens is one of the most exciting names in independent watchmaking today.

This isn’t about homages or minimal tweaks on classic designs. Instead, Behrens builds its own lane entirely, creating futuristic, sculptural timepieces that rethink how time can be displayed.

The brand was started by Lin Bingqiang and is powered by a young, forward-thinking team of engineers and watchmakers who love pushing boundaries.

Think satellite displays, orbital indicators, and architectural dial layouts that look more like kinetic art than traditional watches. Despite the avant-garde styling, the technical chops are real.

Behrens has in-house R&D, production capabilities, and even earned a GPHG nomination in 2020 which is no small feat for a relatively young brand.

Prices start from $1,395

Benyar

Benyar

Another Chinese watchmaker that sharply avoids any steep price tag is Benyar. Known for its ultra-affordable timepieces that don’t skimp on design, Benyar has carved out a niche for offering watches that look far more premium than their price suggests.

Whether you’re into classic chronographs, sporty divers, or sleek dress watches, there’s likely a Benyar model that’ll catch your eye.

Founded with a love for traditional watchmaking and a focus on accessible luxury, Benyar blends modern design with respectable specs like stainless steel cases, automatic movements (or quartz in some models), and reliable build quality.

The Benyar 5177, for example, is a personal favourite of mine. It sports a bold 41mm case, a 50 meter water resistance rating, and a scratch-resistant hardlex crystal.

Prices start from $34.90

Boderry

Boderry

Guided by the motto “Be Distinctive. Be Limitless,” Boderry is a relatively new Chinese brand that has quickly gained a reputation for making high-quality, feature-packed watches that again impress with low price points.

Makes sense, since the company’s goal was to create affordable timepieces that look sharp, perform reliably, and give wearers a sense of identity.

I’ve heard great things about the Boderry Voyager, a model that many enthusiasts argue is the best sub-$100 automatic field watch on the market.

It features a lightweight but durable titanium case, sapphire crystal, and the ever-trusty Seiko NH35A automatic movement.

Prices start from $79

Celadon

Shifting gears once again, we come to Celadon, a brand that doesn’t just embrace its Chinese heritage but elevates it. Founded in 2012, Celadon is unapologetically proud to stamp “Made in China” on its watches, and for good reason.

These aren’t your run-of-the-mill, mass-produced pieces. This is haute horlogerie, reimagined through the lens of Chinese artistry and history.

Led by Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee, Celadon HH (Haute Horlogerie) is part of a larger mission to restore pride in Chinese watchmaking.

Every model is a deeply considered work of art, often featuring cloisonné dials, hand-engraved case backs, and traditional Chinese motifs.

You’ll even find custom mechanical movements developed with master watchmakers like Lin Yong Hua. These watches are easily some of the most beautiful timepieces I’ve ever seen.

Prices start from $3,900

CIGA

CIGA

CIGA Design is another Chinese watchmaker where they’ve cleverly combined avant-garde artistry with prices that feel almost too good to be true.

And it’s a brand that isn’t just respected in China but has become an international award magnet, winning nine Red Dot Design Awards (including two “Best of the Best” titles), two iF Gold Awards, and even the prestigious GPHG Challenge Prize.

Probably their most iconic piece so far is the CIGA Blue Planet, a domed, rotating miniature Earth that tells time with a compass rose and challenges everything you thought a watch could be.

It’s bold, poetic, and genuinely moving, intended to evoke the “overview effect” astronauts describe when seeing our planet from space.

Prices start from €129

Lin Yong Hua

Lin Yong Hua

One of China’s most gifted independent watchmakers, Lin Yong Hua began his horological journey in 1991 at just 18 years old, working in quartz production.

Over the next two decades, his fascination with high-complication mechanical watches led him to master some of the most complex movements in the craft like tourbillons, minute repeaters, jump hours, and perpetual calendars.

So in 2009, Lin opened his own restoration workshop in Shenzhen, eventually launching his independent brand LYH Watches in 2016.

His first creation, the Vinyl Record, was a poetic tribute to the analog music era, fitting for a man who sees art and mechanics as inseparable.

To this day, LYH’s work blends technical virtuosity with deeply personal artistic vision whether it’s the LYH-6 or his stunning mother-of-pearl dials.

Prices start from HKD $27,800

Neo Kung

Neo Kung

Neo Kung may be a new name in independent watchmaking, but his debut piece, the Orienta, speaks with the depth and confidence of a seasoned artist.

Formerly the Chief Product Officer at both Seagull and Shanghai Watch, two of China’s most storied brands (that are coming up shortly) Neo has spent years immersed in the mechanics and meaning of horology.

At first glance, the Orienta feels like a time capsule with its sleek platinum case, hand-finished chronograph dial and vintage soul. But it’s so much more than that.

Its movement, the Cal. NK-01, traces its roots to the Venus 175, the same architecture that formed the foundation of China’s first chronograph six decades ago. It’s a beautiful watch with an equally beautiful story behind it.

Prices start from $40,000

Octopus Kraken

Octopus Kraken

Octopus Kraken is a brand born from a deep love of mechanical timekeeping and a passion for design. Since 2017, the team behind Octopus has specialized in crafting vintage and dive-inspired timepieces, watches that evoke adventure, heritage, and the romance of flight and the sea.

They focus mainly on using high-quality materials like CuSn8 bronze, titanium, and stainless steel, paired with components like Swiss Super-LumiNova, domed sapphire crystals, and reliable automatic movements.

One of my personal favorites is the Octopus Kraken OCT005 Retro Bronze. Made from solid CuSn8 bronze, it ages gracefully with a unique patina, making every piece one of a kind.

With its domed crystal and pilot-style charm, it reminds me of the Oris Big Crown but at under $300, it offers a level of value rarely seen in automatic watches, let alone bronze ones.

Prices start from $190

Pagani

Pagani

Pagani Design is refreshingly upfront about what they do: crafting stylish watches inspired by the big names in luxury horology.

Established in Guangzhou in 2012, this independent brand focuses on delivering high-quality timepieces that echo the iconic aesthetics of brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet but at a fraction of the price.

There are watches that will appeal to adventure-seekers as well as sophisticated jet-setters and everything in between, just so long as you want the look and feel of luxury without the luxury price tag.

Their watches bring precision and passion to wrists worldwide, making stylish, accessible horology a reality. It’s a brand unafraid to embrace homage, with a clear focus on quality and value.

Prices start from $80

Proxima

Proxima

If you’re into well-built tool watches with a strong sense of identity, Proxima is a brand worth knowing. Founded in 2016, this independent Chinese watchmaker has carved out a loyal following by combining serious materials, reliable mechanical movements, and a direct, no-fluff approach to watchmaking.

From day one, Proxima focused on crafting timepieces that felt purposeful, drawing from the DNA of iconic dive watches like the Seiko 62MAS and Marine Master, but never just copying them outright.

They keep production small and hands-on, using premium calibres like SW200 and NH35 automatic movements, double-domed sapphire crystals, and high-grade materials including CuSn8 bronze, Grade 5 titanium, and marine-grade stainless steel. Even their black cases use advanced IPS coating rather than traditional PVD for better durability.

Prices start from $99

Qin Gan

Independent Chinese watchmaker Qin Gan is another brand redefining what “Made in China” really means in the world of haute horlogerie.

Based in Chongqing, Qin’s journey began in his father’s repair shop, where he developed a hands-on love for mechanical watchmaking.

After years working as both a designer and a restorer, most notably for Poly Hong Kong, he launched his first fully hand-finished watch in 2014.

But it was the release of the Pastorale in 2021 that truly put him on the map. Now in its second generation, the Pastorale II is a refined, gold-cased dress watch that highlights Qin’s obsessive attention to detail.

Every component, from the enamel-filled dial and heat-blued hands to the meticulously beveled bridges of the in-house caliber 1810, is finished by hand in his workshop. He produces just 15 pieces per year, making each one a rare reflection of his craft.

Price starts from $46,000

San Martin

San Martin

San Martin may have started out building homage watches, but it has quickly earned a reputation as one of China’s most respected value-driven microbrands.

Founded in 2016 by Mr. Liao JiaMing, a veteran and watch enthusiast, San Martin’s early days were hands-on and gritty, learning from factory floors, experimenting with bronze dive cases, and building everything from scratch.

But what that means, is you now have a Chinese watch brand that understands watchmaking from the inside out.

Now headquartered in Dongguan, close to many of China’s best manufacturing hubs, San Martin has grown into a company known for original designs, robust construction, and exceptional finishing, often punching far above its price point.

Their watches use proven movements like the Seiko NH34 GMT, and feature enthusiast-friendly touches like toolless micro-adjust clasps and high-spec lume.

Prices start from $138

Seagull

Seagull

Probably the best-known Chinese watchmaker out there, Seagull is a name most watch enthusiasts are already familiar with, and for good reason. 

Founded in 1955 as part of a government initiative to jumpstart China’s domestic watchmaking industry, Seagull has since grown into the world’s largest producer of mechanical movements, reportedly responsible for around 25% of global output.

Based in Tianjin, Seagull doesn’t just power hundreds of other microbrands; it also produces watches under its own name, from tourbillons to dive watches to pilot’s instruments and classic dress pieces.

But none are more revered than the Seagull 1963. Originally developed for the Chinese Air Force and powered by the ST19 movement (based on the Venus 175 column-wheel chronograph), the 1963 offers a slice of vintage military charm with real horological significance.

Prices start from $109

Seestern

Seestern

Seestern is a Chinese microbrand that’s built a reputation for crafting high-quality homage dive watches, some so faithful to their inspirations, it’s hard not to do a double take.

The brand operates under Sugess, a company with over a decade of experience in mechanical watchmaking, particularly in complications like chronographs and tourbillons. Seestern, however, represents their focused plunge into the world of dive watches.

At the helm is Coco, a watchmaker and enthusiast with deep industry experience. While Seestern doesn’t operate as a factory, its small-scale, microbrand status allows for more meticulous attention to detail during assembly, something often lost in mass production.

This approach helps deliver impressive value for money. Their now-iconic 300T model is perhaps the boldest homage in their catalog, taking obvious cues from the classic Doxa diver.

Prices start from $179 

Steeldive

Steeldive

Steeldive is a relatively young brand, but one that’s quickly made a name for itself in the world of affordable dive watch homages.

Founded in 2018, Steeldive initially gained attention by producing watches for other companies but soon pivoted to launching its own line, focusing on retro-inspired dive watches with serious bang for buck.

Powered almost exclusively by reliable Seiko NH35 movements, Steeldive’s pieces often channel iconic models from brands like Seiko, Blancpain, and Rolex, with designs that lean heavily into vintage military and tool watch territory.

Their “50-Fathoms” model, for example, isn’t trying to hide its inspiration and instead is a clear nod to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, right down to the bezel and dial layout.

Prices start from $89

Sugess

Sugess

Sugess is the parent company behind Seestern, and while Seestern focuses on dive and homage watches, Sugess leans into technical watchmaking, especially complications like chronographs and tourbillons.

They’re best known for affordable ST19 chronograph watches, using a respected column-wheel movement derived from the Swiss Venus 175.

But their boldest and most impressive move, in my option, is their Tourbillon Master collection. Yes, this really is a fully functioning mechanical tourbillon watch for under $500.Built around the Chinese-made Seagull ST8230 calibre, it offers what used to be an ultra-luxury complication at a fraction of the price. That alone makes them one of the most fascinating players in Chinese watchmaking today.

Prices start from $229

Tan Zehua

Tan Zehua

Tan Zehua is one of China’s most accomplished independent watchmakers and a full member of the prestigious AHCI since 2019.

Trained under his father in the 1960s and later running his own workshop, Tan spent decades restoring antique timepieces before turning to full-scale independent watchmaking.

His focus is pure horological craft, so hand-built movements, traditional finishing, and an obsession with escapement innovation.

He has developed four in-house calibres, including a 10-day movement and the impressive Work No. 3, featuring a constant-force mechanism via a third barrel.

But probably his most exciting development is the Di-Axial escapement, a next-gen take on George Daniels’ Co-Axial, designed for lower friction and no lubrication. Sadly, Tan’s watches are ultra-limited so they’re not easy to obtain, but it’s definitely worth trying.

Prices start from HKD $100,000

Thorn

Thorn

Finally, we arrive at the last of today’s featured Chinese watch brands: Thorn. A lesser-known name even within microbrand circles, Thorn quietly produces handsome, classically styled mechanical watches powered by the reliable Japanese NH35 movement.

While their designs may echo vintage greats, the value proposition is all their own with high-spec builds, tasteful finishing, and unbeatable pricing.

Though still relatively niche, Thorn takes its mission seriously, to create high-quality, low-cost mechanical watches that punch well above their weight.

Every piece is crafted with an attention to detail that aims to win over discerning collectors, not just casual buyers. If you’re after an accessible daily mechanical that delivers sharp looks without cutting corners, Thorn is worth a closer look.

Prices start from $69

Conclusion

It’s clear the world of watchmaking is no longer the exclusive playground of Switzerland. From the artistic mastery of Celadon to the futuristic engineering of Behrens, Chinese watchmakers are proving they have both the skill and the soul to compete on a global stage.

Yes, not every brand hits the bullseye every time, but many are creating genuinely remarkable timepieces that combine craftsmanship, innovation, and value in ways few others can.

Even the more affordable homage brands deserve credit for delivering solid watches to everyday enthusiasts. Hopefully we’ve proved that China’s growing watch scene offers something for everyone, no matter the tastes of your wrist.

best tank watches

The 10 Best Tank-Style Watches OF ALL TIME

Alex DeVane

October 21, 2025

Introduction

The tank-style watch. Now, when anyone mentions tank watches, my mind always goes to the iconic design from Louis Cartier, characterized by the immaculate square case that truly changed the game.

With a tight focus on elegance and precision, Cartier opened the door for a lot of different brands to try the formula out for themselves, leading to an entire sub-genre of watches that most refer to as tank-style or tank-inspired pieces. 

What exactly is a tank-style watch? 

Most Tank watches are defined by a rectangular or square case that perfectly encapsulates everything that they are about. The vertical sidebars on the case resemble tank treads, and they provide the watch with a very structured look that, surprisingly enough, features a lot more curvature than you would expect.

Cartier Tanks always include Roman numerals, and most tank-style watches do as well, though you will occasionally come across one every now and then that uses standard Arabic numbers.

I, for one, will always gravitate toward those that keep it traditional and follow the Cartier design to a tee because, in my opinion, the Roman numerals are what define the watch, other than the case itself, of course.

All in all, tank-style watches are some of the most radiant pieces on the market, carrying with them a rich history and unique presence. It’s no wonder they are a fan favorite.

That’s why today, we will be taking a closer look at the top tank-style watches on the market, exploring what makes them great and hopefully providing you with a lot more clarity on which piece best suits you. 

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Obviously, we had to begin the list with the watch that started it all. In 1917, a legend was born. With its reserved rectangular appeal and iconic blue cabochon crown, this watch set the standard for countless future pieces and provided the legendary framework for what would be one of Cartier’s most successful designs.

The Tank Louis Cartier of today remains the most faithful variant of the original design, and it is one of the most widely appreciated pieces among the fan base.

There’s simply no going wrong with this iconic masterpiece. The design remains largely unchanged today, and it has been equipped with all the modern innovations that ensure flawless performance. 

The Tank Louis Cartier Watch costs $13,500.

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver

Moving on to the non-Cartier tank-style watches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is probably the second most iconic choice for an authentic, rectangular watch.

The sleek, silvery appeal will undoubtedly draw you in, and after that, you will be too transfixed on the bottom right sub-dial to get distracted by anything else.

This watch carries with it a classy swagger that is quite difficult to explain. It’s a luxury staple through and through (most everything from Jaeger is), but it’s so subtle that it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly where to place it.

The clearest description I can give is that the Tank heavily inspires it and builds upon that foundation to give its wearers something unique. 

The Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver costs $10,900. 

IWC Da Vinci Chronograph

IWC Da Vinci Chronograph

IWC’s best take on the tank-style would have to go to the Da Vinci Chronograph. There’s a lot to unpack here. First of all, two sub-dials reside on the top and bottom of the dial, and being a big sub-dial guy myself, I was immediately drawn to everything this piece was about.

The indices are a lot and depending on how you feel about that, it could be a make-or-break scenario. Regardless, however, you can’t deny that this piece captures a very unique voice that is perhaps unmatched.

For starters, the white gold established a clear sense of luxury, and the automatic IWC Caliber 89360 is one of the most elegant movements that could have accompanied a watch of this style. 

The IWC Da Vinci Chronograph costs $10,500. 

Cartier Tank Americaine

Cartier Tank Americaine

Circling back to Cartier, the Tank Americaine is arguably the most coveted Tank variant today. Its slim dimensions and shiny appeal transfix the wearer at every turn, not to mention the iconic curves that have single-handedly elevated the value of this watch simply by how the lugs seamlessly blend into the bare edges of the bracelets.

The dial is slimmer as well, with the iconic Roman numerals set within a tighter space, allowing the design to be a little more creative in presenting them appealingly.

They orbit around the elegant sky-blue hands, creating a truly magical experience. This watch is and will forever be a timeless staple of true luxury watches at their finest. 

The Cartier Tank Americaine costs $6,250. 

Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase

Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase

The German watchmakers over at Glashutte really went all out to provide a retro, modernized piece that also simultaneously checks all the boxes for vintage fans. What I mean is that upon first glance, you’ll notice the modernized moonphase feature, which is obviously the key theme of the design.

However, this watch also holds onto a lot of history, particularly in how it handles its sub-dials. The indices appear to mimic a vintage aesthetic as well, and the slim hands provide a slick little extra layer of glorious detail, especially when you’re looking at the entire watch as a whole and aren’t focusing on one exact feature.

The square dial is also fairly curvy, which I know some of you go absolutely crazy for. Overall, this piece could be the perfect fit, capturing the essence of two different times, all on a gorgeous palette. 

The Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase costs $5,000.

Bulova 96B107

Bulova 96B107

You can’t go wrong with the basics. Bulova has captured just the right amount of the tank style with their 96B107, without overplaying their hand. The simple rectangular casing is quite spacious, with not a lot of features on the dial itself, instilling a calm, relaxed look that will draw many of you in.

The Roman numerals are arguably the most notable feature, and, in my opinion, they look just as good as the Cartier design that inspired them, if not even better.

Something about them is just so alluring, perhaps it’s the silver on silver coloring or the fact that they are elevated to provide the dial with a little more texture. Regardless, this is a piece that you should seriously consider, and when looking at the price, you might even be tempted to pull the trigger. 

The Bulova 96B107 costs $221.

Seiko SUP896 

Seiko SUP896 

Another design rooted in utmost simplicity, the Seiko SUP896 holds quite an iconic heritage, as chances are you have probably heard of this watch in some form or fashion.

It’s carved a very well-earned reputation for itself as being an extremely simple, affordable tank-style watch that wastes no time bringing out the best features.

The simple dial has no numerals but still manages to capture an elegant flair, not distracting from the gold markers and hands that have been finished in a gold champagne color, which, in my opinion, complements the design quite well.

It’s powered by a V115 quartz movement that uses a power cell to recharge, essentially making it maintenance-free. 

The Seiko SUP896 costs $215.

Cartier Santos Dumont SS Black Lacquer 

The mission with the Santos was to build off of the original tank design, but this time, make the dial even more square. They obviously succeeded. This particular edition comes in a jet-black dial with a prestigious-looking detail.

As with any Cartier, the Roman numerals steal the show, but what makes this piece so special is the unique layering of the background pattern, which provides the watch with many subtle details that may be easy to miss upon first glance.

I really like how smooth the metal is as well, and the flatness of the dial will either greatly appeal to you, or it will turn you away. Regardless, this watch is a masterpiece and deserves to be praised for its radiating beauty. 

The Cartier Santos Dumont SS Black Lacquer costs $8,350. 

Citizen BH1678-56E

Citizen BH1678-56E

The grand allure of this Citizen will undoubtedly attract those of you who want a taste of the lavish lifestyle but don’t necessarily want to spend an arm and a leg.

The silver and gold hue is attractive, but I think what really makes this piece stand out is the black dial that serves as a target for the eyes, and with detail that will not be noticed upon first glance, your eyes will most definitely linger on the center of this piece for much longer than you would expect.

On the inside, Japanese quartz swiftly powers the entire design, which contributes to the smaller price. I always appreciate it when a watch focuses on simpler elements to reduce the price while ensuring that the quality of the piece as a whole is not compromised. The Citizen BH1678-56E definitely adheres to that ideology. 

The Citizen BH1678-56E costs $190. 

Hamilton H13519711

Hamilton H13519711

Perhaps the most Cartier-like piece that isn’t made by Cartier themselves, this Hamilton could most likely pass as one of the Tanks in the Cartier lineup, and no one would be able to tell.

The white dial features the large, back Roman numerals, which, as you know by now, might as well be a trademark for the Cartier legacy, and three blue hands that are as thin as paper.

Sound familiar? The rectangular curve of the case provides an elegant outer shell to house this masterpiece, and because of the virtually flawless Swiss engineering, the inside movement is mechanically hand-wound, as the Swiss caliber is simply too grand not to show off. 

The Hamilton H13519711 costs $995. 

Conclusion

The Tank will go down as one of the greatest watches of all time, as its massive success has allowed watch brands to get more creative with their approach and create new designs that push the limit of what’s capable.

A lot of what you love today can be directly connected back to the first Tank, so it’s important that we remember how far we’ve come and how much more room there is to grow.

Cartier has truly inspired the masses, and it’s a beautiful testimony to their brilliance that other brands have fought to vividly recreate their timeless design while adding in unique elements.

The Tank has fostered so much creativity in the past, and as the watch world continues to evolve, I can only dream of what’s next for these masterminds.

best black watches for ladies

15 Best Black Watches for Ladies in 2025

Lucas M

October 20, 2025

Part of what makes a black watch a good look is the classic approach to style. It’s a color that can blend into any scenario, not to mention personal style.

Another aspect I love about a good black watch is that there are so many to choose from. It isn’t exclusive to any particular price range, making it more than accessible for those who like a darker aesthetic.

Every passing year brings new styles to the market, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t consider some legacy items as well.

I’m definitely more neutral with my timepiece collection, as it makes for an excellent lineup of everyday wears. For this article, you’ll get a no-fluff breakdown of the 15 best black watches for ladies in 2025.

How to Choose the Right Black Watch for You

First, it’s important to always remember that how the watch fits matters more than anything else. This simply comes from my own first-hand experience throughout the years, but many people tend to overlook the fine print in specs.

Regardless of how good a watch looks, it won’t mean much if it doesn’t feel like a good fit. Aside from that, it doesn’t hurt to find a watch that matches your everyday aesthetic.

At the very least, it’s a good blend with some of your favorite outfits. Once again, this is pretty easy to do with a black watch, whether it’s the dial, case, or strap that’s the focal point. 

While the color is an important feature, all of the inner workings of a timepiece are going to have an effect on your experience.

Between style and functionality, finding a lady’s black watch that’ll last takes a little more than just looking at the surface.

Best Black Watches for Ladies

There are plenty of options on the market for ladies to choose from. However, I won’t deny that much of the watch market caters more toward the male crowd.

For many women out there, this can pose quite a challenge if you’re looking for something specific. The watches listed below vary in style, design quality, and price to give you more than enough options to choose from.

1. Citizen L Bianca (ref. EW5600-01E)

Don’t let the affordable price point fool you, as Citizen pulls through on the long-term quality if you ask me. The art deco style of this watch is classy, and I find the curved 22mm stainless steel case the perfect contrast. Featuring a black dial and strap, it’s a watch that’ll blend into everyday outfits yet stand out with an upscale look.

I was actually surprised to learn it works off eco-drive technology. This means you won’t need a battery replacement because light alone will make sure it keeps working.

There’s a sense of luxury within this watch, seen in the genuine black leather, curved sapphire crystal, and the sleek silver contrast.

By no means is this a dive watch, but I found the 50m water resistance to be pretty impressive considering the style. Regarding the movement, you get the benefit of a sustainable eco-drive Caliber B035.

Sure, it doesn’t boast the highest qualities in the watch market, but it’s hard to ignore for $280.

2. Michael Kors Oversized Slim Runway (ref. MK8507)

With this entry, I focused more on fashion than engineering quality. Michael Kors may not compete with the likes of high-end watchmakers, but the sleek style of this watch is a great blending piece.

Featuring a bold monochrome look, this is an all-black polished finish that’s meant to deliver a commanding presence.

Don’t let the brand fool you, as this watch is a lot more durable than it looks online. I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily heavy on the wrist, but it will have a heftier feel compared to other slim ladies’ watches.

Keep in mind that the oversized design is definitely intentional here, with a 42mm case and a fashion-focused presence from all sides.

You won’t be taking this watch on diving expeditions or out in the wilderness, but I’d say it’d be the perfect contrast to a bright and stylish outfit. 

Affordability matters when it comes to fashion, and this watch hits a sweet spot at $225.

3. Movado Museum Classic (ref. N/A)

Movado Museum Classic

This is another notable brand name when it comes to watchmaking. Movado may not carry the technical details of watchmakers like Grand Seiko, but they know more than enough about quality and style. I can’t deny the elegance that’s found in the Museum Classic, as it’s quaint with a flair of yellow gold.

It reflects perfectly at any angle, shining amid the jet-black and rather simplistic dial. The Museum Dial in this watch was originally designed in 1947. A part of this signature look is the gold-toned dot, which symbolizes the sun at high noon.

The craftsmanship comes from the Swiss, and I’d advise anyone to overlook the brand name and focus on build quality here.

You’re getting premium materials like sapphire crystal and a watch that has kept water resistance in mind. I can agree that it’s definitely a fashion piece, making it the perfect option for a woman with style.

You won’t have to break the bank for this watch as it’s only being retailed for $695.

4. Hamilton Ventura Chrono Quartz (ref. H24412732)

Hamilton Ventura Chrono Quartz

Made as a tribute to the world’s first electric watch back in 1957, this Hamilton timepiece looks equally futuristic as it does a blast from the past.

I personally love the more abstract approach to its design, along with the smaller case choice. More specifically, it’s a Mid-Century Modern case and a pop culture icon in the movie world.

It’s also important to point out that the watch’s unique design makes for easy unisex styling. The timepiece comes with a quartz chronograph movement, and the 32mm x 50mm case comes with a premium stainless steel construction.

With a reliable sapphire crystal and a surprising 50m of water resistance, this isn’t a watch that’ll break on you any time soon.

Although I’m not a huge fan of leather straps, I agree that this was the right move for this watch. Not only does it look elegant with the matching black dial, but it’s a much more comfortable choice for the design overall.

Entirely worth the investment in my book, and you can grab one for yourself for $1,145 out of the door.

5. Gucci Diamantissima 27mm (ref. YA141501)

Gucci Diamantissima 27mm

They might be more well-known for clothing and handbags, but Gucci has a few watch designs that many women are bound to love.

Featuring a bit more of an exotic dial, you still get the jet-black look contrasted by a bit of rose gold flash. I think that’s what really drew me in to read further, as they decided to go with rose gold rather than the standard yellow gold. In my opinion, rose gold always wins, especially against darker tones.

The watch is also made with a Swiss-made quartz movement. While this may seem relatively standard, it’s still a quality you can rely on. I do want to highlight that the included strap is mainly suitable for wrist sizes between 151mm and 187mm.

Looking into the dial, you get a textured pattern with a Diamante motif and black lacquered color to really make the contrasts pop. The fabric-like visual effect somewhat tricks the eyes at the right angle and makes for a sight to see on a lady’s wrist.

If you like the sound of this, the watch is available at a retail price of $1,460.

6. Frederique Constant Classics Slimline Ladies (ref. FC-220MPBD1S26B)

Frederique Constant Classics Slimline Ladies

For this list, I found it important to focus on elegance with every selection. That’s exactly what you’re getting with this Classics Slimline from Frederique Constant.

It comes with a modest 30mm stainless steel case, and I appreciate their approach to keeping a relatively flat profile.

It’s also built with a Swiss quartz FC-220 movement, and after I got my hands on one, the premium materials speak for themselves.

Anti-reflective sapphire crystal ensures you can always see the time, and the dial is a bold and black mother-of-pearl design. This also includes 10 diamond hour markers and a nice date window at 6 o’clock.

One small caveat is that the watch is only splash-resistant. You won’t be getting very far in the water with this one, so it’s best to keep it dry. The overall graceful tone of the watch makes it the perfect choice for any aesthetic lady.

When it comes to the price, this Classics Slimline is currently retailed for $1,295.

7. Tudor 1926 28mm (ref. m91351-0003)

Tudor 1926 28mm (ref. m91351-0003)

A little bit flashier than some others on this list, the 1926 from Tudor with a deep black dial is perfectly matched with contrasting tones. With stainless steel and rose gold combined, it’s a modest yet bold timepiece to wear.

Featuring a black domed dial with embossed decoration, I feel this watch finds a good middle ground between class and stylistic flair.

The gold hour markers make for excellent legibility, and the date at 3 o’clock is just an added bonus. I’d also like to point out the movement, as you’re getting a self-winding T201, which also promises a 38-hour power reserve.

Waterproof up to 100m, you’d be surprised at how this watch handles itself in water. I still wouldn’t suggest going deep-sea diving in it, but you won’t have to worry about the shower or the rain.

Check it out for yourself, and if you think it’s a winning choice, this 1926 from Tudor costs $3,600.

8. Fossil Raquel Three-Hand Date (ref. ES5385)

Fossil Raquel Three-Hand Date

Leaning back into a more affordable side of watchmaking, it’s the look that drew my eye more than anything else I learned about it. Fossil is a well-known name, and they’re also known for providing affordable alternatives to stylish watch designs.

What I also love about this watch is its stance on the rectangular Raquel design. In a world where circular dials reign supreme, my eyes are always caught by something that looks a little different.

It has a dainty 23mm case, in addition to a matching 7-link bracelet. Another reason I chose this watch is that there isn’t a lot of contrast here outside of the dial.

You get a beautiful black color from every angle, and the low-maintenance nature of the movement is great for long-term use. It’s all made of black stainless steel, and the contrast of the yellow-gold marking makes it easy to tell the time.

Affordability is the name of the game with this watch, as it’s available for only $195.

9. Cartier Tank Must (ref. WSTA0108)

Cartier Tank Must (ref. WSTA0108)

A historic timepiece if you ask me, Cartier is a name you can rely on, and it shows in the design of this watch. This design was originally crafted back in 1917 by Louis Cartier. The sleek and rectangular profile works well for a fashionable woman who isn’t really into anything flashy.

Featuring a 33.7mm x 25.5mm case, you get a very thin profile of 6.6mm. Although I feel this watch is boldly elegant, its jet-black design makes it equally as neutral. Other notable details include a beaded crown set in addition to a synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel.

You won’t have to worry about comfort, as the watch is joined by an alligator leather strap. I always love this choice because it’s comfortable, just as it is durable, not to mention a stylistic choice.

A brand and timepiece that’s known worldwide, I’d say the retail price of $3,650 is pretty fair.

10. MVMT Nova Ceramic (ref. N/A)

MVMT Nova Ceramic

It may not look like it at a glance, but the Nova Ceramic from MVMT comes with a better quality than you might expect. This is another one of those scenarios where you can’t let the price point fool you. Affordability aside, this watch definitely takes a bold stance compared to others on this list.

For ladies who like a glossy design, this one might be for you. I’m personally a fan of the big and bold dial. Not only is it easy to read, but it also makes for a decent statement piece with the right outfit.

The case is 38mm, a bit on the larger side if that’s more your thing, but it’s well-balanced and has plenty of specs to appreciate.

You get subdials, dual time tracking, and a quartz multifunction movement that you can truly rely on. While the case has a pretty slim profile, it’s still a tad bulky, so I wouldn’t suggest trying to hide its presence.

Perfect for dressing up or even casual street fashion, the Nova Ceramic is a go-to choice for more than one reason.

Part of that reasoning is seen in the price tag, as the watch sits at $248.

11. Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.512.4.93.6)

Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.512.4.93.6)

Based on a watch model from the 1920s, I would say that’s a large part of what makes this watch look so classic. Once again, it hits the nail on the head with the rectangular case, a popular choice among many women due to its sizing and style.

Balanced in proportions and design, it’s built with stainless steel, and the case size is modest to say the least. If you’re worried about long-term use, that’s promised through the quartz caliber L176. You get hours, minutes, and small seconds down by the 6 o’clock position.

I would stray away from the water with this one. Even though 30m water resistance sounds notable, it isn’t as deep as you might think. Nevertheless, it’s a stylish piece that’ll blend into everyday wear, and it won’t weigh you down at a little over 86 grams.

If you’re looking into the watch for yourself, it’s sitting at $1,500.

12. Raymond Weil Toccata (ref. 5925-ST-00295)

Raymond Weil Toccata (ref. 5925-ST-00295)

Another watch featuring an art deco style, the Toccata from Raymond Weil is a watch that’s bound to draw some eyes. What brought me to it was the classic blend of stainless steel markings within a deep black dial.

It keeps a modest posture with a case size of 22.6mm x 28.1mm, and the overall minimalist take is one that’ll never go out of style. Precision movement is a promise with the Swiss quartz, and the black lacquered dial looks as deep as outer space.

I might sound somewhat poetic here, but I’m a big fan of less is more, and that’s how I feel about this watch. Functional timekeeping features are pretty standard, and it’s more than durable, with a water resistance of 50m.

For the price point, it isn’t as high as you might expect, being retailed at $1,125.

13. Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas (ref. 102824)

Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas (ref. 102824)

Combining two popular styles, the Serpenti and Tubogas, I have to say this is easily the most unique watch on this list.

It definitely dons a higher price tag, but the quality and unique approach to timeless design are worth the investment. Donning a bold black dial, it’s surrounded by a serpent-like strap around the wrist.

I’d also like to point out that the strap is more than flexible, so it shouldn’t feel restricting at all. The curved drop-shaped case comes in 35mm, and even though that sounds large, it blends in perfectly well with the ladies.

The luxury heritage of this watch is another selling point for me, and it’s just another reflection of the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship. Another detail that I can’t get enough of is the cabochon-cut pink rubellite, which definitely adds to the refinement.

Price-wise, you’re looking at a sizeable $6,550 if you want one for yourself.

14. Chanel Première Gourmette Chain Watch (ref. H7019, 3599594173957)

Chanel Première Gourmette Chain Watch

The design of this watch is what stands out the most. It’s honestly impressive how they made the dial and case look like a stone that you’re supposed to wear around your neck. Maybe it’s the chain-style bracelet that feeds that thought, but the design is unique above all else.

Featuring a very small frame, the case is only 19.7mm x 15.2mm, which is perfect for skinnier wrists. Another signature detail you can find here is the onyx cabochon.

Chanel and style go hand in hand, and they didn’t hold back here. The steel chain bracelet breaks many watchmaker norms and acts as the perfect complement to surrounding jewelry. 

With only a thickness of 7.5mm, this isn’t just a women’s watch but one that’s more than flattering. Joined by a high-precision quartz movement, you get quality in design and functionality.

Consider adding this one to your collection, as I find the price point of $4,650 relatively fair.

15. Rado Integral Diamonds (ref. R20613712)

Rado Integral Diamonds (ref. R20613712)

There’s a specific feature that caused me to take a second look at this watch, and it’s the combination of ceramic, steel, and titanium. While I would always prefer full titanium, this blend of materials is also a stylistic choice.

The Integral Diamonds is a redesign of the 1986 Integral model. Contemporary and modern, at the same time, you’re getting a perfect mix of the old and new.

This can be seen in the high-tech ceramic and traditional callback to the dial’s design. If you’re really interested in something impressive, there’s also a diamond-accented version available.

You won’t break the bank here, but it is a pretty penny. The watch is powered by an R153 quartz caliber, which means you won’t have to worry about precision here.

If you’re eager to try one on, the Integral Diamonds is retailed for $2,400.

Let’s Wrap Up

Look, I could go on and on about black watches you should know about, but I had to narrow it down to my favorites. On top of that, when it comes to what works for the ladies, it requires fine-tuned research.

There are plenty of options on the market, but it’s important not to get duped by low quality with a high price tag.

One of the ways you can navigate this the right way is by working with an experienced retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. You get hands-on experience and all of the expert details you may not discover on your own.

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