Author: Samar

Wristwatches have evolved significantly since their inception, with various shapes, designs, and functionalities captivating watch enthusiasts around the world. 

Among these fascinating timepieces, the rectangular wristwatch stands out as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. In this guide, we delve into the history of rectangular wristwatches, tracing their origins and significant milestones, and explore a range of the top 25 watches available today to the discerning buyer.

About Rectangular Watches

The origins of the rectangular wristwatch can be traced back to the early 20th century. Prior to this era, pocket watches were the preferred timekeeping devices, with wristwatches being primarily worn by women as decorative accessories. However, the practicality and convenience of wristwatches soon caught the attention of men, leading to a shift in design and the emergence of new shapes.

Pioneering Designs

One of the earliest pioneers of rectangular wristwatches was Louis Cartier, a prominent figure in the watchmaking industry. In 1904, Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont, named after the famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. 

This groundbreaking timepiece featured a rectangular case, making it one of the first commercially successful rectangular wristwatches for men. The Santos-Dumont’s sleek and geometric design set the stage for future rectangular watches to come.

Art Deco Era

The Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s further popularized rectangular wristwatches. This era celebrated bold geometric shapes, clean lines, and a modern aesthetic, which aligned perfectly with the design philosophy of rectangular watches. 

Art Deco-inspired timepieces featured rectangular cases adorned with intricate details, such as diamond accents, enamel work, and contrasting color combinations. These watches became symbols of luxury and refinement, appealing to fashion-conscious individuals around the world.

The Rise of Icons

In the mid-20th century, rectangular wristwatches reached new heights of popularity with the introduction of iconic models. One such timepiece was the Cartier Tank, introduced in 1917, which featured a rectangular case inspired by the shape of military tanks. 

The Tank became synonymous with elegance and style, worn by influential personalities as wide-ranging as Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Diana, Steve McQueen, and even Andy Warhol. Other renowned rectangular watches, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and the Patek Philippe Gondolo, solidified the rectangular timepiece as a timeless accessory.

Modern Interpretations

With the advent of modern technology and contemporary design trends, rectangular wristwatches have continued to evolve while retaining their classic allure. Luxury watch brands and independent watchmakers have embraced innovative materials, intricate complications, and artistic craftsmanship to create unique interpretations of rectangular watches. 

These timepieces blend tradition with modernity, attracting a new generation of watch enthusiasts seeking distinctive aesthetics and exceptional craftsmanship.

Should You Buy A Rectangular Watch?

For the modern buyer, a rectangular watch is an attractive proposition on many levels. If you find yourself drawn to the aesthetic beauty of a timepiece, appreciate design outside the established norm, or overall enjoy the classic, confident look of a rectangular watch, it’s something to definitely consider. 

Rectangular watches often attract buyers with a sense of style and flair and usually pair well with a suit or dress shirt. They’ll also add a touch of class and edge when paired with jeans and a T-shirt and look just as at home in sweatpants (it’s a vibe) as in a tuxedo.

Though capable as a “one-watch collection”, a rectangular watch may also work best within a rotation of watches for those seeking a less dressy feel and a steel bracelet (many rectangular watches are paired with leather bands, after all) every now and then. With all that said, let’s jump in.

The Best Rectangular Watches

1. Seiko SUP896P9

When deciding if a rectangular-shaped watch is for you, the Seiko SUP896P9 is an excellent option with its approachable pricing and idyllic sizing. Don’t be put off by the 28.1mm width (7.4mm thickness). Rectangular watches will often wear larger than their circular counterparts, contrary to what the measurements imply, and the Seiko is no exception.

With an attractive champagne-colored dial and gold case, the SUP896 is paired with a brown leather strap (20mm lug width), which can be swapped out for higher-quality options if desired. Most interestingly, the watch features Seiko’s V115 Caliber Solar Powered quartz movement, providing the convenience of a “grab and go” watch in that the user won’t need to set it up often.

And, if this is your first rectangular-styled watch in a larger overall collection, or perhaps your rarely worn dress occasion watch, that convenience will be appreciated as you won’t have to set it each time you decide to wear it.

Retail Price: $215.00

2. Void Watches V02MKII

Founded in 2008 by Swedish designer David Ericsson, VOID Watches is a brand that has successfully captured its own sense of individuality and design ethos in a short amount of time. In their own words, the V02MKII, for example, was “designed to be clever, not smart”, and features an unusual three-compass needle hand layout. 

Time is told by matching the color of the hands with the same colored digit on the dial in such a way that “reminds us about the value and passage of time”, contrary to the ease and quickness of high legibility. Sized at 36mm in width, 8.4mm thick, and 42mm in height, the watch wears broadly across the wrist and is a certified conversation starter.

Retail Price: $265 – $295.00

3. Brew 8-Bit Rectangular Watch

A darling of the smaller independent brands in the affordable price point, Brew has become a household name in watch collecting circles due to their strong sense of design and thoughtful details often tied to founder Jonathan Ferrer’s interests (even the name is inspired by his love of coffee). 

The 8-Bit Brew is no exception. Measuring 38mm in width, 10.4mm thick, and 41.5mm in height, the watch is an ode to classic 8-bit arcade games with a quirky use of video game-like fonts, colors, and even sub-dial second hands as a hybrid meca-quartz chronograph (“PRESS START” and “PRESS RESET” are cleverly engraved on the caseback for each respective pusher). When nostalgia and design collide, this is the watch for you.

Retail Price: $395.00

4. Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way (ref. 98A261)

Frank Sinatra is well known for wearing Bulova timepieces throughout his iconic life and entertainment career. Indeed, in the 1950s, Bulova was even a sponsor of the Frank Sinatra Show on television. Due to this famed partnership and pairing, Bulova continues to produce the “Frank Sinatra” special collection of watches to pay tribute to the man himself across various vintage-inspired Bulova designs in the modern day. 

The “My Way” reference 98A261 is one such example, featuring a gold-tone rectangular case (29.5mm width, 9mm thickness, 47mm height) with the performer’s signature Fedora hat (on the gold-tone crown) and “My Way” stamped on the rear of the watch and deployant buckle. All these design flourishes aside, the 98A261 is an attractive gold-tone option with classic styling from a historic watch brand.

Retail Price: $550.00

5. Raymond Weil Toccata Rectangular (ref. 5425-PC-00300)

Founded in 1976, at the height of the “quartz crisis” of the Swiss watch industry, Raymond Weil has long sought to incorporate the beauty and art of music within his watchmaking designs. The Toccata Rectangular (reference 5425-PC-00300) is, in this vein, named after the Italian word for “touch”, based on rapid keyboard composition, which demonstrates the technique or ability of a skilled musician. 

As such, the Toccata is a yellow gold PVD plated wristwatch (37mm width, 6.4mm thickness, 29mm height) with artistic bevels and punctuated black Roman numerals decorating a white dial in high contrast. The design is refined and suggests the same technique and ability of its namesake for the brand. Featuring the ease of a quartz movement, and a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the Toccata is additionally water resistant to 50m.

Retail Price: $1,150.00

6. Hamilton American Classic Boulton Small Second Quartz (ref. H13421611)

The Hamilton watch company was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. The brand played a significant role in the development of the American watch industry. Over the years, Hamilton became known for its precise timekeeping and innovative designs, earning a reputation as a respected and iconic watchmaker. 

As an innovator in design, the Boulton line of watches was first manufactured in 1940, combining a uniquely American classic style with Art Deco, as characterized by the almost tonneau-shaped case’s curved lugs, and elegant elongated case (27.3mm width, 8.21mm thickness, 31.1mm height). 

The watch features a small seconds hand subdial at the six o’clock position and is powered by a quartz movement. Despite the modern tech and construction, the Boulton has a classic look as if pulled out of your grandfather’s old drawer from decades ago.

Retail Price: $645.00

7. Frederique Constant Classics Carrée Automatic (ref. FC-303N4C6)

Frederique Constant was established in 1988 by Aletta Bax and Peter Stas in Geneva, Switzerland. The brand quickly gained recognition for its commitment to classic and elegant timepieces at accessible prices. The brand’s passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail propelled its success, earning Frederique Constant a prominent position in the luxury watch market worldwide. 

With the development of the Carrée, the brand chose to highlight the elegance of 1920s design, in line with this brand philosophy. Impressive case finishing and a blue guilloche dial at this level of execution are rare for the price point. And measuring 30.4mm in width, 9.71mm in thickness, and 33.3mm in height, the watch is indeed a modern, contemporary take and fit with clear echoes of the past in design. Finally, the timepiece is powered by an automatic SW-200 movement.

Retail Price: $995.00

8. Longines DolceVita Silver Dial (ref. L5.512.4.71.0)

Longines, a renowned Swiss watchmaker founded in 1832, has a rich history spanning over 180 years. With a legacy of innovation and precision, Longines has become synonymous with elegance and performance. From pioneering advancements in watchmaking to iconic designs, Longines continues to symbolize timeless luxury and craftsmanship, and the DolceVita line of watches is no exception. 

As an homage to “the sweetness of life”, the watch features softened lines and a billowing engraving radiating from the center of the silver dial. The Roman Numerals from one to twelve spanning the dial add a sense of classicism, in contrast to the quartz caliber L176 movement powering the watch without much use of effort on the wearer’s part. A classic option for the smaller to medium-sized wrist, measuring 23.3mm in width, 7.2mm in thickness, and 37mm in height.

Retail Price: $1,425.00

9. NOMOS Glashütte Tetra (ref. 408)

NOMOS Glashütte is a German watch manufacturer established in 1990. In its relatively short history, the brand has made a significant impact on the watch industry. Known for their minimalist Bauhaus-like designs and in-house movements, NOMOS combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, garnering global recognition for their exceptional quality and modern timepieces, even garnering the admiration of industry legend Philippe Dufour. 

At its core, the Tetra (reference 408) clearly expresses the clean, no-frills Bauhaus design. Sparing in busy detail, the watch is square-like in shape (29.5mm width, 6.3mm thickness, 29.5mm height to be exact), and one is drawn immediately to the clean dial decorated with sans serif numerals and a sparse second sub-dial register at six o’clock. 

Don’t be fooled by the simple design; NOMOS manufacturing is Germanic in its precise execution and beauty underneath, with the in-house manual wound Alpha caliber providing up to 43 hours of power reserve on a full wind, finished to a high standard.

Retail Price: Starting at $2,080 (stainless steel back, leather strap)

10. Baume & Mercier Hampton 10528

Baume & Mercier, a distinguished Swiss watchmaker established in 1830, boasts a rich history of crafting exquisite timepieces. From its beginnings in the Jura Mountains to becoming a renowned international brand, Baume & Mercier has consistently upheld its values of tradition, innovation, and elegance.

Known for blending Swiss watchmaking expertise with contemporary design, the brand has garnered a loyal following. With a commitment to quality and a legacy spanning over 190 years, Baume & Mercier continues to create timepieces that embody timeless sophistication.

The Hampton 10528 is a handsome example of the brand ethos, featuring a rectangular case (31mm width, 48.1mm height), a small seconds sub-dial, and a date window at six o’clock. On the rear of the case, the automatic 27 jewel movement is visible, while mixed opaline texture and riveted black ruthenium indexes on the front side provide a confident, masculine look.

Retail Price: $2,950.00

11. Oris Rectangular White Dial (ref. 01 561 7783 4061-07 5 19 15)

Oris, a Swiss watch company established in 1904, has a fascinating history rooted in its dedication to quality and precision. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has become a renowned name in mechanical watches. Known for its functional designs and reliable movements, Oris has navigated the industry’s challenges with resilience. 

Embracing their independence, Oris has consistently delivered timepieces that embody Swiss craftsmanship and offer exceptional value, earning the admiration of watch enthusiasts worldwide. 

The Rectangular line of watches is heavily influenced by the Art Deco style, as evidenced by the case shape (25.5mm width, 38mm height) and dial design, with a railroad track-like design notating the seconds and minutes along the axis of the dial. The watch features a mineral glass case back, displaying the in-house Oris caliber 561 featuring time and date.

Retail Price: $2,050.00

12. Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton (ref. R27126012)

Rado, a Swiss watch brand founded in 1917, has a remarkable history of innovation and design. Pioneering the use of high-tech materials such as ceramic, Rado has consistently pushed boundaries in watchmaking. Renowned for their sleek and modern aesthetics, Rado timepieces combine Swiss precision with cutting-edge materials to create durable and distinctive watches that have gained global recognition and popularity. 

The True Square Automatic Skeleton is such an example, with its monobloc 38mm width case (9.7mm thickness) made of polished white ceramic. The eye-catching R808 movement is skeletonized, with a yellow gold colored bridge and nickel-colored top plate contrasting the white vertical brushed background in a unique pattern that only Rado could conjure up.

For those looking for the classic shape of a rectangular case in completely modern high-tech execution, the Rado True Square Skeleton is your bet.

Retail Price: $2,800.00

13. Vieren Black Croc Leather Watch

Founded in Toronto in 2020, Vieren is a microbrand aiming to lead the next generation of watch-making and entrepreneurship at the helm of founder Jess Chow and creative director Sunny Fong (Winner of Project Runway Canada).

Chow, whose family holds over 40 years of luxury watchmaking history, is afforded direct access to a watchmaking studio in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, allowing a bespoke-like level of customization and craftsmanship in each watch they produce. 

The Black Croc Leather watch was designed to be a daily wearer, but its design is not of the ordinary variety. Inspired by leather as a material, the dial itself is an extension of the black croc leather strap, accentuated by light yet subtle execution.

Using leather as a dial material is no easy feat. It must be ultra-thin and finished meticulously to ensure proper form, function, and durability. The watch is sure to make a statement, yet it wears slim and comfortable on most wrists (27mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41.5mm height).

Retail Price: From $1,950

14. Cartier Tank Must (ref. CRWSTA0041)

When speaking of rectangular watches, perhaps none is more prolific or enduring as the Cartier Tank. With a storied history dating back to 1917, the original Tank was inspired by the design of tanks used in World War I. A rectangular case, parallel lines, and a distinctive crown were the result of Louis Cartier’s imaginings. 

Quickly becoming a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the following years and decades, the Tank collection has expanded to include various models and variations while maintaining its timeless classic aesthetic. In 2021, the Tank “Must” returned as a reinterpretation of the 1970s classic.

In particular, the Tank Must Large (reference CRWSTA0041) features a steel case (25.5mm width, 6.6mm thickness, 33.7mm height) with a high autonomy quartz movement inside and the iconic looks of the Roman Numerals circling the outer perimeter of the dial set against an iconic silvered dial with blued-steel sword shape hands—a classic for a reason and the true standard bearer of the style.

Retail Price: $3,100.00 (Leather strap)

15. Hermès Cape Cod 41mm

Hermès, the renowned French luxury brand, ventured into watchmaking in the late 1920s. Since then, their watches have blended Swiss precision with exquisite craftsmanship. With a focus on design, Hermès has created timepieces that embody elegance and style. Known for their iconic straps and distinctive dials, Hermès watches have established a reputation for combining timeless aesthetics with the brand’s legendary heritage of luxury and refinement. 

The Cape Cod line of watches, and in particular, the 41mm, is one such execution. With a 33mm width and 41mm height, the case is most distinctive in its “wired” look, with the lugs on either side extending past the dial following the curve of a softened rectangular shape, evoking a strong sense of identity and design not seen with more traditional watchmakers who stick to the typical shapes and case aesthetic. 

The sense of design continues with the Arabic numerals in a bold yet subtle font and a date feature on the three o’clock side of the dial, which does its best not to undermine symmetry with its use of a white background wheel. Powered by a Swiss-Made quartz movement, the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar.

Retail Price: $3,375.00

16. TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf (ref. CBL2115.FC6494)

The Tag Heuer Monaco watch has a captivating history that began in 1969. It gained worldwide fame as the first square and water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. The Monaco then achieved iconic status when Steve McQueen wore it in the film “Le Mans”, epitomizing the look of the cool and sporty watch design.

Throughout the years, Tag Heuer has continued to evolve the Monaco, introducing various iterations and limited editions while retaining its distinct square shape and vintage-inspired design. Today, the Tag Heuer Monaco remains an emblem of daring innovation and timeless style in the world of luxury watches.

The Monaco X Gulf (reference CBL2115.FC6494), in particular, represents the historical relationship between Heuer and Gulf, merging the logos of both in its usage of blue tones and orange. As a winner of the “Iconic Watch Prize” of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) in 2022, this design sense has not gone unnoticed. 

Design chops and accolades aside, the watch features the Caliber HEUER02 Automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve for the automatic chronograph movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. A true combination of sport and elegant design.

Retail Price: $7,800.00

17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

In the annals of historic and trailblazing rectangular-shaped watch design, the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso ranks right at the top with the Cartier Tank in historic importance and cultural legacy. Launched in 1931, the story goes that the Reverso was originally designed for polo players.

It featured a unique reversible case to protect the delicate dial during matches, with the user able to flip between either side of the case depending on usage. The Reverso’s Art Deco aesthetic and innovative concept quickly garnered attention. 

Over the years, it has evolved into an enduring icon of horology, appreciated for its elegant versatility. The Reverso collection expanded to include various complications and designs while staying true to its signature reversible case.

Perhaps the truest to this original design is the Tribute Small Seconds (reference Q713842J), with its simplified focus on the small seconds and opaline dial (in contrast to the high-level complications featured on other models).

The rear of the case is left blank, enabling space for custom engravings to further personalize the watch for your own. Own the emblematic watch from “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”, with the JLC Reverso. (Case size 27.4mm width, 8.51mm thickness, 45.6mm height)

Retail Price: $9,600.00

18. Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (ref. 1-37-02-08-02-62)

The history of Glashütte Original watches is deeply rooted in the German town of Glashütte, renowned for its horological heritage. Founded in 1845, the brand has endured tumultuous times, including wars and political shifts.

Despite these challenges, Glashütte Original persevered and established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. Their timepieces feature in-house movements, showcasing their dedication to watchmaking traditions and technical prowess. 

Today, Glashütte Original continues to create exquisite watches, embodying the spirit of German watchmaking excellence and timeless design. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, as such, recalls the dynamism and gentle curves of the eponymous decade with unmistakable retro quality and character.

A sizable watch at 40mm in width, 14.1mm thick, and 40mm in height, it is also a capable one despite the fine level of finishing and chronograph functions, with a sporty 10 bar water resistance. 

Technical features abound, with over 70 hours of power reserve and a display case back showcasing the in-house caliber 37-02 with hour and minute, stop second flyback chronograph, small seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter functionality, alongside a Panorama date. A powerhouse in design, function, and capability.

Retail Price: $13,400.00

19. Piaget Emperador Black Tie (ref. G0A33070)

The history of Piaget watches began in 1874 when Georges Edouard Piaget established his first workshop in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland. Initially known for producing high-precision movements, Piaget soon expanded into creating complete timepieces.

In the 1950s, they gained recognition for their ultra-thin watches, setting numerous records in slimness. Piaget’s expertise in watchmaking and jewelry led to the development of iconic models like the Piaget Polo and the Piaget Altiplano. 

Today, Piaget continues to craft exquisite timepieces that blend technical mastery with artistic elegance, solidifying their position as a leading name in luxury Swiss watchmaking. Among such iconic models, the Emperador is a particularly handsome addition, with its Guilloche sunburst motif dial and elegant blend of curves and straight lines alongside the corners of the 18K rose gold case.

An 18K rose gold Piaget coat-of-arms adorns the dial, with a small seconds display positioned at ten o’clock and a power reserve indicator at the six o’clock position. (Measurements: 32mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41mm height)

Retail Price: $22,800.00

20. H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp (ref. 5324-1205)

The history of H. Moser & Cie watches dates back to 1828, when Heinrich Moser founded the brand in St. Petersburg, Russia. Renowned for their exquisite timepieces, Moser watches became favored by Russian royalty and high society. After relocating to Switzerland in 1848, the brand continued to thrive.

Throughout the years, H. Moser & Cie has committed to traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Their watches feature sophisticated designs and intricate movements, combining technical expertise with understated elegance. 

Helmed by Edouard Meylan, Moser of today often incorporates quirky details and conceptual design, of which the Swiss Alp reference 5324-1205 is no exception. A satirical take on a certain ubiquitous “smart watch”, the watch is rectangular in shape (38.2mm width, 44mm height), encased in a DLC steel case with an incredibly dark Vantablack dial (the darkest man-made material ever made) which can be compared to looking into a black hole. 

A turning small seconds disk at six o’clock resembles a loading symbol of a digital device, and a power reserve indicator is displayed on the rear to keep the dial side altogether uncluttered. Limited to 50 pieces and long since sold out, one must look to the secondary market to obtain this prolific watch.

Retail Price: $45,000.00

21. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)

The history of Vacheron Constantin watches is a remarkable journey that began in 1755, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers in existence. Founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the brand quickly gained a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces of exceptional quality.

Throughout the centuries, Vacheron Constantin has remained committed to precision, innovation, and artistic craftsmanship. Their watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, dignitaries, and connoisseurs worldwide. 

With a rich heritage and a tradition of technical excellence, Vacheron Constantin continues to create timepieces that merge traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, solidifying its status as a prestigious and revered name in the world of haute horology. The American 1921, in particular, reinterprets a model launched in 1921 for the American market during the so-called “Roaring Twenties”. 

Upon seeing the watch, one is immediately drawn to the rotated dial alignment and crown at the top of the top right side of the pink gold case (40mm width, 8.06mm thickness, 40mm height). This diagonal reading of the time enables the wearer to read at a glance without needing to turn the wrist, and the black-painted Arabic numerals with small seconds at three and four o’clock provide an exquisite touch to an already attractively unique design.

Retail Price: $36,800.00

22. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (ref. 645.QL.7117.RX)

Hublot, a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, has made a significant impact on the watch industry. However, it was under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver in the early 2000s that Hublot experienced a transformative period. In 2005, Hublot introduced its groundbreaking and iconic timepiece, the Big Bang.

With its distinctive design, combining a bold and robust case with a fusion of materials, the Big Bang became an instant sensation. It symbolized the fusion of tradition and innovation, embodying Hublot’s philosophy of the “Art of Fusion.” 

The Big Bang’s success propelled Hublot’s rise to prominence, solidifying its position as a trailblazing brand in the luxury watch market. In the Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (reference 645.QL.7117.RX), we find a watch made of carbon fiber, blue composite material, and sapphire in typical Hublot skeletonized form. Sized at 42mm, the watch features a tourbillon movement along with hours, minutes, and power reserve functionality. A true mix of high horology complication with forward-thinking modern materials.

Retail Price: $100,000.00

23. Richard Mille RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold

Richard Mille, established in 2001, has quickly become synonymous with cutting-edge technology, avant-garde design, and exceptional craftsmanship in the years since its inception. Founded by Richard Mille himself, the brand pushed the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, incorporating innovative materials and high-tech advancements.

Among Richard Mille’s prolific collection is the RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch. Introduced in 2007, it exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and elegance. The RM016 features an ultra-thin white gold case, measuring 8.25mm thick (38mm width, 50mm height), showcasing Richard Mille’s mastery of slim watchmaking. The movement, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensures remarkable accuracy and reliability. 

The RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch reflects Richard Mille’s dedication to merging technical excellence with sophisticated aesthetics. It embodies the brand’s philosophy of creating visually striking and exceptionally engineered timepieces, cementing Richard Mille’s position as a pioneer in modern luxury watchmaking.

Retail Price: $60,000.00

24. A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 703.048)

Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in the town of Glashütte, the brand became renowned for crafting exquisite pocket watches. However, World War II and subsequent political changes led to the company’s closure in 1948.

It wasn’t until 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, that Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, revived the brand. A. Lange & Söhne quickly reestablished itself as a German precision and craftsmanship symbol, crafting exceptional timepieces characterized by intricate movements, exquisite finishing, and timeless design. 

The Cabaret line, in particular, was originally introduced in 1997 as the brand’s first rectangular watch but was discontinued in 2013 after poor sales performance. Revived in 2021 as a limited number of 30 production pieces, the reference 703.048 Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is made of 950 platinum (29.5mm width, 10.3mm thickness, 39.2mm height), embellished in Art Deco-inspired designs such as smooth rounded corners and a stepped bezel. 

An oversized date is featured at twelve o’clock, with a power reserve at four, running seconds at eight, and the enchanting tourbillon at six. All finished to the utmost degree of perfection, the hand engraving (tremblage) and black polish throughout the watch furniture, case, and dial is a triumph of watchmaking skill.

Retail Price: EUR 315,200 (limited to 30 numbered pieces)

25. ArtyA Watches 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon

When Yvan Arpa, founder and president of ArtyA, debuted the 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon in 2016, it was most certainly the watchmaker’s most complicated watch ever. Encased in pink gold and titanium (measuring 47.3mm in width, 18.1mm thick, and 64.6mm in height), Arpa sought to expand his Son of Sound collection with a minute repeater.

Arpa wanted to amplify the sound of his movement and designed the main plate to resemble the Gretsch guitar, by which the sound is inspired. The minute repeater itself has three gongs. One to acknowledge system engagement, another for hours, another for the minutes, and two striking sounds for the quarter hours. As if the focus on sound amplification wasn’t enough, the sapphire back of the watch is designed to add volume to the sound and allow the tourbillon to turn on a secondary axis.

Customers at the time were able to work with the brand’s master watchmaker to further customize the tone of the sound, to fit their preferences exactly. As a work of art and sound, the 3 Gongs required over one thousand hours of hand work to produce and assemble.

Retail Price: 480,000 CHF

26. Patek Philippe Gondolo Collection (ref. 7041R)

As mentioned earlier, you can’t talk about rectangular watches without mentioning the Gondolo Collection from Patek Philippe. The brand name speaks for itself, but the 7041R from the collection stands out as a personal favorite.

It holds a signature Gondolo look in the case and dial but offers a unique twist of its own at the same time. When it comes to the specs, it’s the rose gold case and classic aspects of the watch that catch my eye the most.

Of course, the watch is much more than that, featuring a precise Caliber 215 PS movement, a finely grained dial, and more. I also have to mention the diamond-set flange here, which includes 108 diamonds and reflects from every angle.

I’m also a huge fan of the sizing for the case. This may have been just the luck of the draw, but the 30 x 33.8mm case feels like the perfect fit. You also get the benefit of a sapphire crystal case back, which highlights both durability and beauty.

Between the detailed craftsmanship and stylish beauty, this is a timepiece that’s meant to last more than one lifetime. I believe this is truly reflected in every aspect, from the engineering and materials all the way down to the asking price.

Retail Price: $35,000 to $40,000 USD

In Conclusion

The history of rectangular wristwatches spans over a century, marked by innovation, artistic expression, and enduring elegance. From the pioneering designs of Louis Cartier to the iconic status of the Cartier Tank, these timepieces have evolved from functional tools to symbols of style and refinement. 

Modern rectangular watches continue to captivate watch lovers with their timeless appeal, combining heritage and contemporary design elements. Whether worn as a statement piece or a daily companion, the rectangular wristwatch remains an embodiment of sophistication and timeless elegance.

A leather strap has primarily one function; to hold your timepiece securely around your wrist so that time can be discovered at a moment’s notice. Dubbed an “accessory within an accessory”, watches with leather straps go beyond serving as a utilitarian component to being a major decorative element.

Since the stone age, up until now, the use of leather has evolved but not its versatility in the fashion industry. From sandals to shoes and straps, fashion trends featuring leather will always be popular among men and women.

Durable, fashionable, and appealing, high-quality leather watches are prized jewels because the older they get, the stronger they become. But not all leather straps are made equally, and that’s where this article comes in. Strap in and buckle up because today, we shall be looking at the 15 best watches with leather straps! 

Our Top 3 Picks

Blancpain

Air Command AC02 12B40 63B

• Titanium
• Automatic

View this Watch

Cartier

WGBB0023 Ballon Bleu

• Polished 18kt yellow gold case
• Automatic
• 42mm

View this Watch

Blancpain

Air Command AC02 12B40 63B

• Titanium
• Automatic
• 42.50mm

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About Watches with Leather Straps

The band of a timepiece is what makes the clock or watch, a wristwatch. Bands made from metals are referred to as bracelets, while those made from other materials, such as leather, rubber, etc, are collectively referred to as straps. Even though the star of the show is often the dial, the strap of a watch can either make or mar the entire look of the watch. 

Leather straps have been used for decades and are the most desirable strap option. They are a timeless classic that has held their appeal since their first appearance in the horological world and are a favorite of many enthusiasts and collectors. 

Apart from providing profound comfort to the wearer such that the watch does not hurt the wrist even in extreme conditions, they are versatile and alluring.

When purchasing a timepiece with a leather strap, you must take the brand into consideration, strap maker, and type of leather. The best leather quality is “full grain” leather. 

This means the entire hide – with densely packed fibers – is used, making it extremely strong and able to withstand decades of use. Top grain leather is the 2nd highest grade, followed by genuine leather and bonded leather.

Apart from being of very high quality, a good leather strap must be able to maintain its suppleness and surface pattern throughout its lifetime. It must also be breathable, water resistant, malleable, and highly durable.

The History Of Leather Watch Straps

Leather watch straps were one of the first strap options for watches. The first instances date back to the late 19th century when “wristlets” were manufactured to strap the pocket watches of soldiers on their arms with leather.

The British soldiers fighting in the Burma and Boer wars needed all the hands they could get, and since pocket watches required a free hand, they had to innovate a way to tell time.

WW1 began in 1914, and rifling through pockets for a watch was not recommended in the crises of the trenches. It is even reported by the Times that the wearing of wristwatches by soldiers was made obligatory by the telephone and signal service two years into WW1.

Watch manufacturers quickly noted a rising demand for men’s wristwatches, particularly from soldiers, and in a short time, the production of watches with leather straps skyrocketed. These leather straps initially looked different from the ones we have today though. 

They came with a sort of cup or open face to hold the pocket watch with loops of wire soldered onto the sides of the case to fasten the leather strap.

The war came and passed (and came to pass), but the core spirit of watches with leather straps is as intact today as it was after the world war.

Should You Buy A Watch With A Leather Strap?

A watch with a leather strap is an important part of the everyday carry world. Apart from being an accessory that illustrates both personal style and reliable utility, leather straps are hard to beat in versatility.

They look great with a suit on the red carpet and will steal the show at the gym even when you decide to lazy around on the couch. They come in countless sizes, textures, and colors, so they are best for generic circumstances in life, and everyone should have watches with leather straps in their collection.

However, they are situation-dependent, so you might want to try a suede strap for casual swimming and hanging out at the beach. That said, it’s best to avoid taking your leather strap where it might get wet. They pair with anything and have a bit of texture and visual interest that will fit into any style, especially formal situations.

When it comes to formality, the darker the strap, the more formal it is. Black is the smartest and most popular option, but you can mix and match dark browns, oxblood, or navy for something exotic and subtly different.

The 15 Best Watches with Leather Straps

1. Rolex Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52508-0006)

If there’s one word synonymous with exclusivity, extravagance, and luxury, it’s Rolex. The brand needs no introduction. It is the world’s most iconic and ultra-high-end company with decades of Haute Horlogerie prowess and technical know-how.

The Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52508-0006 is one of the most significant debuts from the world-famous watchmaker in recent years that exudes quality and nobility. The Swiss Marque prides itself on its commitment to delivering highly distinctive and excellent watches, and this timepiece is a fine example of the brand’s horological brilliance. 

The understated watch is presented in a striking 39mm case in 18 ct yellow gold with short fine lugs and a thin profile of 9.50mm. There’s a domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial and another crystal on the case back. Finally, Rolex shows off its movement!

The design of the dial is balanced, straightforward, and elegant, with a glossy, lacquered-like finish that evokes the flawless gilt dials of vintage watches. The white dial is highly legible with black printed railroad tracks for the minutes and seconds and applied Arabic numerals for hours at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock.

The alligator leather strap wears like a charm and is fitted with a nouvelle folding clasp, “Dual clasp”. This feature ensures the watch always sits in the center of your wrist.

2. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227G)

Patek Philippe is another Haute Horlogerie brand that needs no introduction. The Genevan watch manufacturer is one of the best luxury watch brands with impeccable credentials and a rich history of horological experience.

The Calatrava is the flagship model of Patek Philippe, with a lineup of highly coveted and quintessential classic dress watches. The Ref. 5227G-010 is simply an icon done the Patek Philippe way with an undeniable charm.

Elegant, understated, yet typical Patek Philippe, the watch exudes luxury. It is presented on a 39mm white gold case with flawlessly curved flutes which emanate from the caseband and taper gently towards the lugs. The polished lugs are short, allowing the black leather strap to cuddle and encircle the wrist in a comfortable embrace.

The handmade crocodile strap tapers nicely towards the white gold clasp and has a handsome matte finish and subtle texture that reeks of prestige and nobility while allowing the watch to remain the star of the show.

The black dial provides an excellent canvas on which the white gold dauphine-shaped hands graciously proclaim the hours and minutes with clear precision. The highly coveted timepiece is simply an example of horological brilliance. 

3. Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day-Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

When a watch enthusiast mentions the ‘Holy Trinity’ of Swiss watchmaking, everyone already knows who he is referring to. But if you don’t, the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking is made up of 3 ultra-high-end brands. These are Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, with an unmatched legacy of greatness. 

Vacheron Constantin was founded in Geneva in 1755 and has remained an indisputable luxury watch brand with avant-garde horological timepieces. The FiftySix Day-Date Ref. 4400E/000A-B437 is a charming synthesis of evocative vintage vibes and contemporary exclusivity.

The watch is a modern interpretation of a legendary model from 1956 and is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm across. The ‘edgy’ design of the case is mesmerizing, with sharp portions between the round bezel and the lugs inspired by the sides of the Maltese cross. 

The dial has a sort of ‘retro science lab’ look, evocative of the 1950s, with two horizontally aligned sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock denoting the day of the week and the date, respectively.

The watch is mounted on a dark grey alligator leather strap with a calf inner shell. The calf inner lining on the leather strap keeps you feeling warm and cozy but goes further to prevent damage from moisture and sweat.

4. Panerai Luminor Base Logo (ref. PAM01086)

Panerai is an Italian luxury watch manufacturer founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai. The brand has a solid reputation for manufacturing some of the most reliable and groundbreaking innovations, such as the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech, unveiled at SIHH in 2017. Many of the designs from the high-end watchmaker are breathtaking, and the Ref. PAM01086 is one such with an unusual crown cover.

The watch is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 44mm in diameter and has a height of 13.5mm. The unusual crown cover is simply a crown guard patented in 1955 by Panerai.

The watch is certainly for larger wrists but has a subtle cushion shape and a small lug-to-lug distance of 49.5 mm, making it wear more comfortably than its dimensions suggest. The dial is classical, balanced, elegant, and discreet, with nothing extravagant or particularly alluring.

The hands and indexes have a generous application of high-quality SuperLuminova C3, so legibility is excellent. But the leather strap… how very aesthetically pleasing it is! The handmade dyed beige strap is made from natural leather and features cream-colored stitching and calfskin lining.

5. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503608)

Famed for pioneering the use of ceramic and titanium in watchmaking, IWC is a highly respected brand best known for its luxury aviation watches. Apart from being a leader in the production of complicated and ultra-high-end watches, the Swiss Marque has been standing since 1868. 

This Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar flaunts the giant watchmaker’s mechanical prowess in a big, bold, and GREEN timepiece! The watch is presented in a large stainless steel case that measures 46.2 mm in diameter, so yeah, it was intended for larger wrists only. I can’t even imagine this watch on a 15 cm wrist!

The watch further adheres to the “Big Pilot’s Formula” with a thickness of 15.4mm. The brushed case also has a knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown and a screwed case back that keeps it water-resistant to 60 meters.

The dark green dial has a sunray-brushed effect and features 4 subdials at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock for the moon phase, date and power reserve, month, weekday, and small seconds. The green leather strap is sleek, refined, and fashionable with steel rivets, a folding clasp, and IWC’s practical EasX-CHANGE system.

6. Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Omega is a brand that has consistently demonstrated excellence in all its inventions. While the luxury watch brand is proud of its rich history and strong ethos, the company is also innovative and employs avant-garde technicalities and machinery.

The Globemaster is one of those cutting-edge inventions that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with its Rolex equivalent. The watch is inspired by the legendary Constellation timepieces of the 1950s and 1960s and is powered by one of the most technically advanced movements from Omega. 

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8900 is a revolutionary anti-magnetic movement tuned to stringent chronometer standards making this timepiece synonymous with excellent performance.

The breathtaking sun-brushed blue dial is an evocation of the pie-pan dials of the vintage Constellations from the 1950s and features a simple date window at 6 o’clock. The blue handmade leather strap has a distinctly luxurious feel and is crafted from crocodile skin. 

The high-quality strap is fully grained, which means it will last long and withstand wear and tear without losing its sheen and luster. You can get this icon right here.

7. Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02 12B40 63B)

When in 1735 Jehan-Jacques Blancpain started making watches in a small workshop on the upper floor of his house at Villeret, he planted the seeds of a horological empire that would defy easy categorization and labels.

Famous for its Fifty-Fathoms watch, the Swiss brand has continued to remain at the top board of Haute Horology thanks to its numerous high complication and iconic watches.

First launched in the 1950s, the Air Command is one of the highly coveted flagship models with pleasing aesthetics and top-notch technicality. The watch is presented on a 42.5 mm titanium case with a bidirectional titanium bezel with a blue ceramic insert. The case features alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving it a rather sporty look.

The flawless deep blue dial beams brilliantly and just gives off a futuristic look that is reinforced by the sunray-brushed surface. The highly legible dial features snailed chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the outer edge.

The calfskin strap comes in a matching blue color and has been finely waxed, giving it a vintage and streaked lightning effect. Get this icon right here.

8. Breguet Classique (ref. 5177BB/12/9V6)

Famous for revolutionizing watchmaking by inventing the tourbillon in 1801, Breguet is one of the oldest surviving watchmakers with an exceptional standard of horological prowess. The Classique 5177BB/12/9V6 is an exquisite, ultra-high-end creation inspired by 19th-century pocket watches from Breguet.

The watch is presented on a flawlessly polished 18kt white gold case that measures 38mm by 8.8mm. Among other things, it is the true rebirth of a classic with long, narrow lugs that makes it wear slightly larger than its dimensions indicate.

Since many of the design details are derived from vintage pocket watches, the dial is traditionally styled but this time with a contemporary twist. The exquisite guilloche textured dial comes on a silvered 18kt gold plate and has been engraved with an intricate “pannier” weave pattern that is both charming and evocative of the good old times.

It features blued “Breguet” style hands and a fine hour and minute chapter ring with black Roman numeral hour markers & dot minute markers. The strap of the watch is a solid black alligator/crocodile leather with a tang buckle.

The band features an elementary design that shows off the natural characteristics of the leather superlatively. Check it out and get it here.

9. Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 517.CX.0710.LR)

Hublot (French for “bullseye” or “porthole”) was founded in 1980 by Italian Carlo Crocco in Switzerland. From the onset, Mr. Carlo aimed to produce eccentric watches with groundbreaking technology that would command the attention of the Horological world.

The brand’s obsession with unusual materials in the making of timepieces made them bold enough to combine gold and rubber in the same watch for the first time in history. The Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is one of those eccentric innovations that elegantly display the technical craftsmanship of the brand.

The watch is presented on a 45mm satin-finished and polished black ceramic case with contemporary aesthetics. Elegance rules supreme with the sapphire skeletonized dial of the Ref. 517.CX.0710.LR just creates a mystical and bewitching atmosphere unique to the wearer.

The watch also features a splendid moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock and is powered by a self-winding moon phase movement, the HUB1131, with a power reserve of 42 hours. The black alligator leather strap (the most luxurious and durable of all Crocodilians) is flexible, hypoallergenic, and significantly superior in quality. Get this flawless beast right here.

10. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Grand Seiko is the premium sibling (and luxury arm) of Seiko that produces elegant watches with exclusive movements and the highest-grade materials. The SBGY007 is a timepiece that reinstates the brand’s desire to propagate rich and exciting Japanese traditions in a contemporary package.

The watch is presented in a mirror-polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 38.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.2mm. The lug-to-lug width is 43.7mm, and you’ll be pleased to discover how beautifully the lugs curve to embrace your wrist.

The dial is simple, clean, and understated with a wave ripple-like texture produced by hammering a mold with different types of hammers. Under the hood, the 9R31 movement, accurate to +/-1 second per day, provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

The watch is mounted on black crocodile leather fastened by a threefold clasp with push button release. The leather is solid and possesses a one-of-a-kind appearance. It also features the brand’s embossed logo on the underside. Check it out here.

11. Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 (ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC)

The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC is an elegant mechanical watch equipped with the new caliber 473. The Caliber 473 is a robust and reliable movement with a five-day power reserve and a 10-year warranty. 

The movement was built and designed from the ground up by Oris, and the Hölstein-based watch manufacturer reports that it took four years to create it. Like the caliber 400 series, it is accurate to within -3/+5 seconds a day. Functions of the movement include powering the hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, and pointer date.

The dial of the watch is captivating and features a peculiar blue shade that resembles the water’s surface. It is adorned with Arabic numerals and a red arrow-shaped pointer that indicates the date on the periphery. There is a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock also.

The watch is presented on a textured brown strap made from sustainably sourced deer leather. Deer leather is one of the softest leather options on the market that is loved for its supple thinness and breathability. The strap also features a sophisticated butterfly folding clasp with a seamless adjustment system.

12. Longines Spirit 37mm (ref. L3.410.4.53.0)

Longines is a Swiss brand with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry. The prestigious watchmaker has been in business since 1832 and is famous for creating the first Chronograph movement, ‘the 13.33Z’.

The Longines Spirit is a vintage-inspired collection with contemporary aesthetic and technical features that pays tribute to the brand’s past. The collection has a lineup of elegant watches, all paying homage to the exceptional men and women who, by a display of courage, left their mark on history, particularly in the aviation sector.

The Ref. L3.410.4.53.0 is presented on a 37mm stainless steel case that is highly advertised as a women’s alternative on the brand’s website but could be worn by men as well. The case has a height of 11.7mm and is finely executed with high-quality finishings on the top, mid-case, and periphery of the bezel.

The sunray-brushed blue dial is also excellently designed with sharp, luminous Arabic numerals. The blue calf leather strap is elegant, discreet, and slightly vintage, with contrasting topstitching that perfectly compliments the dial.

13. NOMOS Club Campus 38 Cream Coral (ref. 725)

NOMOS is a young independent watch brand founded by Roland Schwertner in 1990. The Glashütte-based watch manufacturer is famous for its clean and modernist aesthetic designs and is also the largest manufacturer of mechanical watches in Germany.

The Club Campus 38 Cream Coral is a lighthearted spirit watch that is just as refreshing as it is enthralling. The watch is youthful, free, and uncomplicated and is presented on a 38 × 8.5mm stainless steel case with a closed back and 100 meters of water resistance. The cream coral dial delivers a nice dose of fun and is adorned with a fine combination of Roman and Arabic numerals. 

The hands and hour markers have white luminous inserts to keep the watch highly legible in low-light conditions. The movement underneath the hood is NOMOS’s hand-wound Alpha caliber with 43 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The watch is worn on a velour leather gray strap that has a unique velvety feeling. It is also extremely robust and breathable.

14. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a vintage-inspired reissue of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look. The Swiss watch brand was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, in 1892 and is famous for producing beautifully designed and highly precise timepieces.

The Ref. H38416711 comes in a fully polished 316L stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and 14.45mm in height. Flanking a large, signed crown at 3 o’clock are two oversized pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, giving the timepiece a unique retro vibe.

The panda dial features two snail-patterned subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The one is a small seconds counter, while that on the right is a 30-minute counter. The watch is fitted with a comfortable 20mm black calf leather strap with matching stitching and a stainless steel folding clasp buckle.

Calfskin leather is a fantastic choice because it is lighter weight and more supple than the ones derived from older cows. Check it out here.

15. Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121

The first Seiko Alpinist, the Laurel Alpinist, was released in 1959. The watch was originally intended for mountain men who needed a reliable watch that could put up with the rugged terrains without sacrificing accuracy. 

The Alpinist has evolved but remains one of the greatest legends produced by Seiko that is appreciated by thousands of watch enthusiasts across the globe. The Ref. SPB121  is a modern reinterpretation of the 1959 model and features a balanced mix of vintage and modern-day elements.

Measuring a fitting 39.5mm by 13.2mm, the brushed stainless steel case has a polished bezel and is topped with an AR-coated sapphire crystal. The olive-black dial features a beautiful sunray pattern with a gilded internal rotating compass track on the perimeter.

The watch comes mounted on a luxurious brown strap, crafted from premium quality crocodile embossed calf leather. The strap has a waxed finish with a brown matching stitch and a steel button deployment safety clasp. Get it here.

16. Ballon Bleu de Cartier

Even if you’re familiar with the brand name, there’s a chance you might have missed out on the beauty of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier. To be honest, even though Cartier isn’t high on my list, this is a fantastic timepiece with a reliable leather band.

This includes a 40mm steel case and a Roman numeral dial with convex curves that look great from every angle. I’m a big fan of mechanical features, which is why I have to mention the watch’s 1847 MIC Caliber movement. It features seamless automatic winding, and the blue steel sword-shaped hands are a sight to see for anyone.

When I’m wearing the watch, I find myself appreciating the durability of the watch band, as you can feel it to the touch. Not only will it hold up in the long term, but it will also look and feel beautiful on all sides.

I consider this watch a great choice for everyday wear and a luxurious choice that might as well be a family heirloom. Cartier never disappoints, and the multi-layered quality in this watch isn’t hard to see from my standpoint.

Conclusion

Leather straps have undergone many changes since their first appearance when pocket watches moved onto men’s wrists, but not their peerless elegance and sophistication. 

The legacy of leather straps continues onward, and today, many designers and watchmakers create very high-quality leather straps in a wide variety of styles and price points. That said, if you haven’t added a watch with a leather strap to your collection, remember it’s a necessity, and the clock is ticking.

Watch brands have historically used stainless steel, precious metals, and chrome (although a long time ago) as the main materials for watch cases. However, there has been a rise in the use of alternative case materials in the past several years. One of the more notable case materials is ceramic, and this is the focus of our discussion.

In this article, we will review a variety of great ceramic watches, from affordable budget options to the upper limits of luxury price points. If you are ready to learn more about ceramic watches, let’s move forward.

History of Ceramic Watches

The first time ceramic was used to produce an entire watch case was by Rado in 1962 with the Rado Diastar 1. It was not until the 1970s that Seiko produced their first ceramic watch, the Tuna 6159-7010 diver watch, the grandfather of the Seiko Tuna watches with the shrouded case. Like Marmite, you either love it or hate it.

Later, IWC used ceramic in their Da Vinci ref. 3755 from 1986-1995. The trend of ceramic watches gained popularity in 1999 with the release of the J12 from Chanel, featuring a black ceramic watch case and bracelet. 

This was significant for Chanel, as they transitioned from a luxury fashion brand making fashion watches to producing serious luxury watches. The J12 collection of watches has since expanded, with Chanel incorporating white and mixed ceramic colors, making it their flagship watch.

Next, let’s delve into the 20 best ceramic watches for all budgets.

1. Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch

The MoonSwatch has had a meteoric rise since its release in March 2022. It has piqued society’s interest by introducing 12 colorful bioceramic watches inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and celestial objects within the solar system.

The watch is a 1:1 of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, borrowing the case shape from Omega but with different dial layouts and dial colors in bioceramic form. In terms of dimensions, the MoonSwatch measures 42mm in diameter and 13.25mm in thickness and has a round case shape.

The movement inside is an ETA quartz movement with 4 jewels. The watch’s crystal is made of plastic. If you turn the watch over to the case back, each MoonSwatch has a sticker referencing a celestial object such as the Sun, Moon, Mercury, etc.

The watch is water-resistant up to 3 bars, so it’s best to remove it if you plan on getting wet. The watch comes with a velcro strap with a 20mm lug width. The MoonSwatch has regular spring bars, so you can easily swap out straps.

Some negatives are the plastic feel of the velcro strap and the build quality of the watch case. People have mentioned the chronograph pushers breaking off. Also, this is the only watch on this list that does not have a sapphire crystal.

It has a plastic crystal that tends to scratch easily, and it cannot be easily buffed out like acrylic. The MoonSwatch has become an affordable Omega Speedmaster watch for the masses. I even own two (Jupiter and Mars), and I love the direction Swatch is going with it.

This watch will undoubtedly lead people to learn about the Omega Speedmaster, with the possibility of acquiring it in the future. Lastly, the watch is priced at $260 but can only be purchased in Swatch stores, and inventory remains limited even in 2023.

2. Junghans Force Mega Solar (ref. 18/1938.44)

Junghans is well-known for its Bauhaus-designed watches and clocks, particularly the Max Bill collection. But did you know they also produce ceramic watches with radio-controlled quartz solar movement? If you didn’t, let’s find out more about it below.

Regarding Mega Solar’s specifications, the case and bracelet are made of black ceramic with a matte finish. The case diameter is 40.4mm and round in shape, while the bracelet features a titanium-folding clasp. 

Although the watch is not considered an integrated bracelet watch, the narrow width of the lugs and the flow of the case to the bracelet prevents the use of other straps. The watch is 8.2mm thick, making it slim and lightweight. It is also water-resistant to 5ATM, making it more than just splash-proof.

Other interesting features of this solar-powered quartz watch include multi-frequency radio, which allows the timepiece to be conveniently controlled via the Junghans MEGA App. The watch also has a power reserve of up to 21 months, a sleep mode after 72 hours, and a big date for better readability. All of these features are useful and can make our lives easier.

Lastly, the watch is priced at approximately $1,550.

3. Longines Hydroconquest Ceramic (ref. L3.784.4.56.9)

The Longines Hydroconquest is the flagship dive watch of the brand. It is regarded as a more affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner. However, one version of Longines’ dive watch they have created that Rolex has yet to produce is an all-ceramic dive watch. This is an interesting timepiece, and we will dive into it below.

The Hydroconquest Ceramic comes in a matte black ceramic case in 43mm size and round case shape. The Hydroconquest is 13mm thick with a lug width of 21mm and a weight of 126.7g. 

Despite the larger size of the watch, it is comfortable on the wrist due to the lightweight case material of ceramic construction. The Hydroconquest comes with a black rubber strap that hugs the wrist pleasantly.

Powering the Hydroconquest is Longines’ caliber L888, an impressive entry-level Swiss movement with a large 72-hour power reserve. So if you stop wearing the watch on Friday evening, it will still be running by Monday morning. There is also a date at the 3 o’clock position.

Being a dive watch, it has a water resistance rating of 300m, making it an ideal timepiece for underwater exploration. In terms of Swiss luxury, this is arguably the best value-for-money ceramic watch on this list and is priced at $4,150. 

4. Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom (ref. BR0392-PHANTOM-CE)

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 and have gained a following due to their unique pilot and military-styled timepieces. The Bell & Ross Phantom is a looker of a watch, especially if you have larger wrists.

The Phantom comes in a matte black ceramic square case with a black rubber strap, measuring 42mm in width and 9.8mm in thickness. Due to its flat and square shape, the Phantom wears quite large, which is perfect if you have bigger wrists.

The dial of the watch features 3, 6, 9, and 12 Arabic numerals, along with a date window at the 4:30 position. The movement powering the Phantom is Bell & Ross’ Calibre BR-CAL.302, which is based on the Sellita SW300, a clone of the ETA 2892.

Although not a dive watch, the Phantom can handle water resistance up to 100m, making it an ideal companion for aerial and aquatic adventures. As an owner of a BR03-92 in stainless steel, I can attest that the design and style are iconic. The square shape of the BR03 is unmistakably Bell & Ross.

The BR03-92 Phantom is priced at $3,990.

5. Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic (ref. R32128202)

Rado is a pioneer in using ceramic in watchmaking, and if you’re considering purchasing a ceramic watch, the brand should be on your list. In 2017, Rado re-launched the Captain Cook Dive Watch, paying homage to the original Captain Cook watches from 1962.

The particular watch we will inspect is the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. Captain Cook’s case is constructed of a monobloc case, meaning that to access the movement, you go from the front rather than removing the case back to access the movement.

This actually helps with water resistance as there are fewer access points in the watch case. The case size is 43mm and 14.6mm thick. This Captain Cook has a symmetrical and clean dial with no date. It also contains a translucent dial showing the movement.

The movement within is a variant of the Powermatic 80 movement that contains 80 hours of power reserve. In my opinion, the Captain Cook has been one of the most significant watch releases for Rado in the last few decades. Rado was typically associated with being an old-fashioned watch brand with their DiaStar and Ceramica collections.

But the Captain Cook collection is cool, with pedigree and history to back it up. This variant of the Captain Cook in ceramic is priced at $3,900.

6. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

Tudor has been making waves in the watch industry ever since its resurgence in 2012. They are the playful and cooler cousin of Rolex. In fact, Tudor has been using ceramic watch cases since 2013, when they produced the Black Shield version of the Fast Rider Chronograph Watch. However, we are highlighting the ceramic version of the Black Bay here.

The Black Bay Ceramic comes in a case size of 41mm in matte black ceramic with a micro-bead blasted finish. The case is 14.4mm thick and has a lug-to-lug length of 50mm. The numbers may seem large; however, due to the lightness of the watch case and hybrid rubber and leather strap, it wears comfortably.

A great aspect of this Black Bay Ceramic is the automatic Calibre MT5602-1U. The Black Bay Ceramic costs $5,025, and this is good value for money, all things being considered.

7. TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph (ref. CBG2090.BH0661)

The TAG in TAG Heuer is an abbreviation for Techniques d’Avant Garde. When it comes to avant-garde materials, ceramic is an appropriate choice. Jean-Claude Biver, the former President of LVMH’s watch division (including TAG Heuer and Zenith), significantly influenced the design of the modern Carrera Automatic Chronograph watches. 

The case, lugs, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet of this ceramic Carrera are made of black ceramic. The watch case has a diameter of 43mm and is water-resistant to 100m. The watch features an exhibition case back, but the front is more impressive with the skeleton dial displaying the Calibre HEUER02 Automatic in-house movement. 

The movement has a lengthy 80-hour power reserve. These specifications for this Carrera are quite impressive. A negative critique of this timepiece is that it shares key design elements with Hublot. It is essentially an affordable version of the Hublot Big Bang Unico.

TAG Heuer prices this watch at $7,400.

8. IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun (ref. IW389101)

“Top Gun: Maverick” was released in 2022, and in honor of the movie, IWC specially released the Pilot Chronograph Top Gun. The Pilot Chronograph is an icon of IWC, alongside the Big Pilot collection. The Top Gun watch boasts a design geared towards the elite among US Navy jet pilots, thus possessing genuine military pedigree along with a great stealthy appearance.

IWC states the watch is made of black ceramic with a diameter of 44.5mm. The watch is 15.7mm thick, with a lug width of 21mm. It is suitably paired with a textile strap, given the military styling of this timepiece. The Top Gun contains a screw-in crown but is only water-resistant to 60m, so its usefulness in water may be limited.

The hands of the chronograph are white, except for the running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position, which has a touch of red. It’s subtle yet adds a nice touch of color.

What’s also interesting is that the Top Gun features a soft-iron inner case around the automatic movement for protection against magnetic fields, which is handy since we are constantly surrounded by magnetic fields in modern times.

The Top Gun commands a premium pricing from IWC at $8,950.

9. Zenith Defy Classic White Ceramic (ref. 49.9002.670/01.R792)

In 2019, Zenith released their Defy Classic collection of timepieces in black, white, and blue ceramic cases with matching color rubber straps. Zenith ventured out of their usual comfort zone of watch styling here, likely due to Jean-Claude Biver’s influence. Let’s delve into the Classic White Ceramic model.

The Zenith Defy white ceramic has a case size of 41mm and is 10.75mm thick. The Zenith has a water resistance of 100m, which makes it great for daily wear. Although the watch appears round, once it is on the wrist, you can feel the tonneau case of the Defy.

The dial of the watch is unique, as it is a skeleton design, meaning that components of the automatic movement can be seen from the front. The dial reminds me of Keith Haring’s Pop Art. This is definitely a fun timepiece to wear.

The Defy Classic White Ceramic has a retail price of $7,900.

10. Panerai Tuttonero Luminor GMT (ref. PAM01438)

Panerai is the quintessential watch of the Italian Navy Frogmen. They are historically military dive watches. Having owned a Panerai Luminor Marina, I can attest that Panerai timepieces are built to a high standard, robust, and interesting in design.

There is nothing quite like a Panerai, and the Tuttonero Luminor GMT is even more stylish with its black ceramic casing and stealthy appearance. The Tuttonero GMT is large at 44mm, 53mm lug-to-lug length, and cushion case design.

But then again, Panerai watches are meant to be large and bold on the wrist. The bracelet is also made out of ceramic, thus contributing to a cool overall experience. The dial of the Panerai contains faux patina on the hour markers, which contrasts well with the black matte dial.

The Tuttonero has a sandwich dial, meaning that there is a layer of lume below the dial with cutouts on the hour markers. This gives the dial added depth. The Tuttonero is also 100m water-resistant, ensuring you can safely swim with it.

The Tuttonero Luminor GMT comes with a steep price tag of $15,200.

11. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic (ref. Q204C470)

Jaeger-LeCoultre, or JLC, is often known as the “watchmaker’s watch brand” as they have historically provided movements to the best Swiss watchmakers, including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. Thus, if they were to follow modern trends and create a black ceramic watch, they have every right to do so.

The Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic measures 44mm. This chronograph contains a three-sub-dial layout at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. There’s a date window at the 4:30 position. This timepiece contains 100m water resistance, ensuring it can withstand harsh environments.

This watch is limited to 500 in production. Thus, due to its rarity, it is highly coveted by collectors. Although JLC is well-renowned for its movements and dress-style watches, they also make handsome sports-casual watches, as shown here.

The Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic was $13,900 when released. This model is now discontinued, so it can only be purchased on the secondary market.

12. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 0240 O52A)

Blancpain is credited with making the first dive watch in 1953, alongside Zodiac. However, the modern Blancpain we know today is actually a modern reincarnation. Jean-Claude Biver purchased the brand in 1983 (defunct since 1961) and successfully revived it.

Now Blancpain is under the Swatch Group umbrella. Let’s dive in and learn more about the ceramic Bathyscaphe. This Bathyscaphe is crafted in gray ceramic. The case is 43.6mm in diameter and 13.8mm thick, with a 23mm lug width.

Those numbers appear large, particularly the 23mm lug width, and it can be difficult to obtain straps in this size. However, the sailcloth strap on the watch is one of the best in the business from Blancpain. The Bathyscaphe, true to its dive watch heritage, has 300m of water resistance.

The Bathyscaphe has a blue sunburst dial, and the color matches the blue ceramic bezel insert. Also, the hands are unique; they are blocky and remind me of Lego pieces but with a straight point at the tip of each hand.

A negative is the size of the lume plots on the hour markers; they are small for this watch dial, given there is enough empty space on the dial to make them larger.

The Bathyscaphe in ceramic is expensively priced at $13,500.

13. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003)

Omega has been releasing variant after variant of their ever-popular Speedmaster watches, which has diluted the Speedmaster collection. However, the Dark Side of the Moon in black ceramic caught the attention of many enthusiasts. Even as I think about this timepiece, I lust for it along with the regular Speedmaster Moonwatch.

The Dark Side of the Moon comes in a 44mm case sizing, larger than the standard Moonwatch. The thickness is 16.1mm, the lug width is 21mm, and the lug-to-lug length is 49.8mm. Due to the ergonomic curves of the case and downward turn lugs, this watch is very wearable on a range of wrist sizes.

The Dark Side of the Moon is light at 93g on the nylon strap. Also, there are two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock rather than the standard three on the Moonwatch.

The Dark Side of the Moon is a stunning timepiece, and the cherry on top is the exhibition case back, showing off the beautifully decorated Co-Axial Calibre 9300 movement. Considering the chronometer movement and the Speedmaster collection, the price tag of $12,000 seems reasonable.

14. Hublot Big Bang Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic (ref. 451.EX.5120.EX)

Hublot is an expert when it comes to utilizing exotic materials in watches, ranging from sapphire to carbon, Magic Gold, and more. The material discussed here is sky blue ceramic, which is a unique take on ceramic, as brands typically use black or white ceramic.

But then again, Hublot is not your typical Swiss watch brand. They do things differently and are controversial within the watch community. The Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic is limited to 250 pieces. The sky blue ceramic case is satin-finished and polished; the case size is 42mm in diameter.

The bracelet comes with matching colors and finishes as the watch case. There is a skeleton dial showing off the inner gears and finish of the HUB1280 UNICO automatic movement. This movement also contains a flyback complication that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph timer to zero without stopping it.

The power reserve is an impressive 72 hours, and the timepiece has 100m water resistance, so it doesn’t need to be babied. If you have ever tried on a Big Bang watch, you will know they are large and thick, but this is the loud style of Hublot. I am not the biggest fan of Hublot, but they can make nice watches (Classic Fusion).

The Big Bang in Sky Blue Ceramic has a premium pricing of $24,100.

15. Grand Seiko SBGC221

The Grand Seiko SBG221 is the only brand on this list that hails from Asia, as the others are German or Swiss-made. This takes nothing away from Grand Seiko and does not mean the watch is of inferior quality. In fact, Grand Seiko is renowned for the quality and Zaratsu finishing of its watch cases.

Grand Seiko typically sizes their sports watches on the larger end of the spectrum. Here, it is no different, as the SBGC221 has a case diameter of 46.4mm, a case thickness of 16.2mm, a lug width of 23mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 52.5mm. 

The heartbeat of the SBGC221 is through the Spring Drive movement, a hybrid quartz and automatic movement. The smoothness of the sweeping seconds hands of Grand Seiko Spring Drive movements is mesmerizing.

This SBGC221 is complicated; it is a chronograph watch with a unique asymmetrical three sub-dial arrangement. There is also a power reserve and date indicator. Additionally, there is a fourth main center hand, the GMT hand. This watch is full of functions, and it could be your only watch if it were smaller in size.

The SBGC221 is priced expensively at $14,800, but this is justified by the quality and high-end finishing of Grand Seiko.

16. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic (ref. 103077)

If I do not have the opportunity to own an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in the future, then I feel the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a suitable substitute for my collection. The version we are highlighting is the Finissimo in black ceramic, ref. 103077. Gerald Genta actually inspired the Bulgari Octo timepiece; thus, it possesses elegance and charm.

The Finissimo Ceramic uses black ceramic with a sandblasted finish. The case size comes in at 40mm with a 5.55mm thickness, but it wears larger due to the squarish size and flatness of the watch case. This watch has substance to back up its ultra-sleek look, and it contains an extra-thin automatic manufacture movement.

The movement includes a micro-rotor made of platinum. This is also the thinnest full ceramic watch currently available. The specifications of this Finissimo Ceramic are truly impressive. Bulgari is a brand that keeps innovating. So keep your eyes on them in the future.

This Finissimo Ceramic has a price tag of $17,700, a bargain compared to Genta-designed sports watches.

17. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ceramic (ref. 81010-32-631-32A)

During my recent travels, I had a layover in Copenhagen, Denmark, where I visited several watch boutiques. Several Girard-Perregaux Laureato watches caught my eye, including the regular stainless steel model, the Infinity Edition, and the Laureato Ceramic.

The latter was my pick of the bunch, although I sadly did not have much time to try it on. If looks could kill, this watch would be deadly. The GP Laureato Ceramic has a 42mm case size with a thickness of 11.13mm. The dial captures your attention with its Clous de Paris pattern, which features small square knobs.

The watch also features an exhibition case back, allowing you to view the beautifully decorated GP01800 automatic movement. People often compare the Laureato with the Royal Oak, but to me, it is another iconic watch from that period. There is a certain edge about this Laureato Ceramic that words simply cannot describe.

The color, edges, and textures all fuse together to make this a marvelous timepiece. Also, as the watch case is entirely black ceramic, the color makes the watch wear and feel smaller too. The GP Laureato Ceramic carries a premium price tag of $20,300.

18. Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks (ref. SB0161E4/BE91-256S)

Breitling has a rich history in aviation, and the watch most people associate with Breitling is the Navitimer chronograph. However, in recent years, their Superocean Heritage Dive Watch collection has gained more exposure. The particular model we will be inspecting is the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks.

Firstly, the Chronoworks is a limited edition timepiece, with only 100 made. The Chronoworks is large, at 46mm and 15.44mm thick, with a lug width of 24mm. So, you will need a larger wrist to wear this watch; otherwise, it may end up looking like a dinner plate on your wrist.

Additional features of the Chronoworks include 100m water resistance and 100 hours of power reserve. It is undeniable that Breitling makes great watches. However, for the price of this watch, I would have expected a more luxurious strap than rubber. Also, the size of the watch is an issue, in my opinion.

This rare Chronoworks from Breitling had a retail price of $40,000. But is now discontinued and can only be found on the secondary market.

19. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01)

Audemars Piguet is considered one of the three brands in the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmakers, alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Out of the three brands, AP has made greater efforts to follow modern trends.

The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic is an example of this, and it shows AP flexing its metaphorical muscles by fusing avant-garde with traditional watchmaking. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is 41mm in diameter and 9.5mm thin.

For a perpetual calendar, these measurements are slim, and the watch feels svelte on the wrist as the bracelet drapes around it. The dial and subdials of this Royal Oak contain a blue Grande Tapisserie texture. There are four subdials at each quarter of the dial.

In my opinion, the 6 o’clock subdial is the star of the show as the moon phase subdial is contained there. The background of the moon phase dial contains a starlit sky, making it a truly magical timepiece.

AP notes this timepiece is “Price on Request”. Nonetheless, sources indicate a retail price in the region of CHF 129,000, which is astronomical. Also, as this is a Royal Oak collection, it is undoubtedly limited in production.

20. Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson

When it comes to avant-garde watchmaking, Richard Mille is a brand that comes to mind. They have carved out a niche in the upper echelons of luxury watches. Whether you agree with the pricing or not, it is undeniable that Richard Mille is a force to be reckoned with in horology.

The watch we are focusing on is the RM055 “Bubba Watson”. The tonneau-shaped case is made of white ceramic, iconic of the RM brand. The Bubba Watson is 42.7mm in size, with a lug-to-lug length of 49.9mm and a thickness of 13.05mm.

The Bubba Watson sits ergonomically on the wrist, and the rubber strap follows the curvature of the case, making it very comfortable and lightweight to wear. Next, let’s talk about the movement. This is where RM really innovates. The movement is the Calibre RMUL2 hand-winding movement.

The gears and cogs seem to float above the skeleton dial, creating an impressive visual effect. The Bubba Watson is simply a supercar on your wrist. Sources indicate that the Bubba Watson has a retail price of $120,000. But RM watches are extremely difficult to obtain at retail prices. So you will be paying way above retail price if you’re interested in buying it from the secondary market.

21. Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Black Magic (Ref. 550.CS.1800.RX.ORL21)

The classic fusion has almost reimagined Hublot’s philosophy for watchmaking. This new Orlinski watch adds more of an artistic touch to the classic fusion’s design and makes it a bit more modern and quite a bit more fashionable. Quite contrary to Hublot’s traditional design, the Orlinski Black Magic is surprisingly subtle. 

This watch measures 40mm with a clear sapphire glass and ceramic casing that ensures the most amount of durability possible for a watch of this caliber. Inside, is the HUB1100, a house-made movement from Hubolt based on the SW300-1 and finished with an open rotor. The indices and hands are highly polished, complementing the bold textures of the ceramic case. Overall, this is a very luxurious piece that benefits from the all-black color. One of the more unique Hubolts on the Market. 

The Black Magic costs $14,800

Conclusion

Overall, ceramic watches are not a fad anymore as brands have placed significant resources into using the material. Ceramic watch cases have been here to stay since their inception in 1962. The list above covers a wide range of prices for people looking to buy a ceramic watch. 

Despite not being mentioned in the list of ceramic watches, having experienced the full white ceramic Chanel J12 watch, I can say that it is absolutely gorgeous to behold and feels light on the wrist. 

In my opinion, Chanel, along with Rado, are two juggernauts in the use of ceramic in wristwatches. So, if you are looking to buy a ceramic watch, remember to hunt around, do your research, and ask questions.

Whether you are new to the hobby or a seasoned collector, you can’t help but notice the popularity of dive watches. They are the undisputed champions of not just the sports watch world but the watch world in general. I am by no means saying that they are the best or most practical for every situation, but they are the style of watch most responsible for carrying the financial weight of most mainstream brands.

I was kind of a late bloomer in the world of dive watches. I found myself more enamored with the simplicity of a time-only watch like the Rolex Explorer, while the Submariner garnered most of the mainstream attention. There were many factors that played into this preference, but one of the most substantial was simply the size. When I first got into watches, we were riding the peak of the big watch craze and slowly trending back to a more manageable case dimension.

In 2018, Tudor released the watch that really opened the floodgates into more compact dive watches with the release of the Tudor Black Bay 58, a 39mm vintage-inspired dive watch that lit the enthusiast community on fire and created waitlists for a watch whose sole purpose was to be an accessible watch to the everyday person.

Before the hype died down and I was finally able to pull the trigger on this dream dive watch, I went down a rabbit hole that many of us have gone down: The best mid-size dive watch. I discovered an incredible niche of watches that existed well before Tudor shined a light on the segment, and that was for 36mm dive watches. Often described as unisex, mid-size, boys, or women’s, these watches checked a lot of the boxes us more conservative collectors were looking for regardless of gender.

We are going to take a look at some of the best examples of 36mm dive watches that are as capable as they are wearable. Before we dive (pun completely intended) into the list, let’s first identify exactly what a dive watch is, some of the history, and who would actually want a 36mm example.

Our Top 3 Picks

Longines

The Legend Diver Watch L3.374.4.50.0

• Stainless Steel
• Automatic
• 36mm

View this Watch

Oris

Aquis Date Upcycle 36mm

• Multi-piece stainless steel case, uni-directional rotating bezel with grey ceramic insert
• Automatic
• 36.50mm

View this Watch

Longines

The Legend Diver Watch L3.374.4.50.0

• Stainless Steel
• Automatic
• 36mm

View this Watch

About Dive Watches

To put it simply, a dive watch is a watch that features a certain degree of water resistance, a method for timing elapsed time, and the ability to monitor this elapsed time in a dark environment. There is the ISO 6425 standard that places some more stringent qualifications on this description, such as 100 meters of water resistance and lume plots by every indice on the dial as well as the bezel, but not every dive style watch will be rated to this standard.

When I look for a dive watch, I am typically looking for a watch with at least 100 meters of water resistance and a rotatable bezel, whether internal or external. Bonus points are awarded to watches with 200 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown. I don’t need these features (nor do 99% of collectors), but I feel a lot more confident washing the dishes and paddling a kayak with them!

History of Dive Watches

The dive watch as we know it really came into fruition in 1953 with the introduction of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms. The watch featured the iconic rotatable dive bezel and was quickly emulated by Rolex with their Submariner and Zodiac with the Seawolf, and as they say, the rest is history.

There have been several enhancements to dive watches, including helium escape valves, lockable bezels, and full lume dials, but really the recipe hasn’t strayed too far from the original. In the last 10 years or so, the greatest change has been the introduction of the vintage-inspired dive watch.

The process of looking back in the catalog for inspiration is a unique characteristic of watches today and is responsible for many of the watches on this list looking in their archive for their sizing as well. If you are looking for a more thorough history of dive watches, feel free to check out my best dive watches under $1000 guide.

Should you Buy a 36mm Dive Watch?

This is a great question that really comes down to personal preference. If you have a large wrist and like big watches, no, you should not buy a 36mm dive watch. If you have a small wrist and have longed for a capable dive watch, yes you absolutely should buy a 36mm dive watch. For those of us in between, with slightly smaller to slightly larger wrists, it will come down to preference. 

If you like a larger modern aesthetic and don’t mind the extra heft, I’d probably stick with some of the slightly larger options as the extra real estate on the dial truly is a benefit to the user experience. If you are bothered by a bulky watch or are someone that really wants to experience the feeling of a modernly built vintage-inspired watch, the 36mm is an absolute winner! 

Not only do you get a watch that is capable and wearable, but most of the time you get to save a pretty significant chunk of change when purchasing one compared to their larger siblings. For those of us open to the smaller case size, this is truly a win-win. 

The Best 36mm Dive Watches

Now that we have a little bit more of the backstory on dive watches, let’s begin our list of the 15 best 36mm dive watches.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36.25mm (ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001)

Any list of dive watches would feel incomplete without a selection from Omega. Known for their innovative movement technology, strong historical provenance, and value for money compared to industry leader Rolex, Omega is a brand that needs little introduction. 

Since the introduction of the “Bond” era Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega has released 2 size variations of their iconic dive watch to appease a multitude of wrist sizes. Even though that trend came to an end with their most recent iteration, the fact that Omega continued to produce 36mm dive watches through the “bigger is better” era of the 2000s is admirable.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001, is a 36.25mm stainless steel watch that features all of the characteristics of the previous generation’s full-size version. The helium escape valve, skeleton sword hands, and scalloped bezel are all present in this compact dive watch. The watch still utilizes the Co-Axial escapement in the form of the Caliber 2500, building off of the architecture of the ETA 2892.

Although available in several variations, the blue dial and ceramic bezel on the stainless steel bracelet are the most iconic of the style. You won’t find the wave motif on this iteration, but coming in at a pre-owned price of $3000-$3500, this Seamaster offers a modern specification and a clean aesthetic other Seamasters cannot.

2. Tudor Submariner Mid-Size (ref. 75090)

Although Rolex has not dabbled in the midsize dive watch game since their earliest examples in the 1950s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t have an option for you. Even though Tudor set the watch world on fire with the 37mm case dimension of their Black Bay 54, there is a precedent for these smaller dive watches within their lineup.

The Tudor Submariner Mid-size, ref. 75090, is a 36mm stainless steel Submariner borrowing much of its design and parts from its bigger brother, Rolex. The watch features a sapphire crystal, Mercedes handset, tritium lume, and crown guards. The case comes in at a very svelte 10mm thanks to the ETA 2824 -2 movement that powers the watch. This watch is exactly what Hans Wilsdorf had in mind when he founded the brand Tudor.

A more affordable alternative to Rolex that can give a user a very similar ownership experience at a fraction of the price. Like most watches even associated with Rolex, that affordability part of the equation has slipped out of the grasp of many vintage collectors as most Tudor Submariner examples will fetch premiums near their Rolex big brother depending on condition. 

Thanks in part to its smaller dimension, this reference will set you back anywhere from $4500-$8000, depending on the condition.

3. Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.0)

If you like the vintage styling of a watch from the late-1950s or early-1960s but want the modern construction and specification that comes with a new watch, few brands can provide as much value as Longines. They have a historical archive as deep as any Swiss watchmaker and are positioned in a place to provide these timepieces for an affordable price to a wide watch-collecting audience.

The Longines Legend Diver, ref L3.374.4.50.0, is a 36mm version of one of their most popular models since its release in 2012. This watch features an inner-rotatable dive bezel that is powered by a second crown on the timepiece. This helps prevent accidental knocking of the bezel and also helps to give the watch a distinct look compared to other options in this price range. 

This watch is powered by the L592 movement, featuring a silicon hairspring and a 45-hour power reserve. Coming in at a price of $2400, this watch represents great value for someone looking for a great everyday watch with a vintage aesthetic and a few tricks up its sleeve.

4. Oris Divers Sixty-Five 36mm (ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18)

If you are looking for value for money in the Swiss watch industry, few brands pack as much punch as Oris. The independently owned darling of the watch industry is known for providing consumers with well-built timepieces that can withstand a more active lifestyle.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a model that has come to be a cornerstone of the Oris brand and provides entry-level luxury consumers with modern construction and specification while still maintaining the original charm of the Oris dive watches from the 1960s. 

Perhaps none of these timepieces are as faithful to that original specification as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18. This 36mm stainless steel watch on a tropic-style rubber strap matches the original case dimension and style of the time. The dial layout represents a more standard approach than some of the models with Arabic numerals, but the watch still exudes a charm that many vintage recreation watches miss out on. 

The watch has been criticized for its 100M of water resistance and less-than-perfect bezel action, but if you are looking for a modern spec monster, this may not be the watch for you. If you are looking for a dive watch that gives you the feeling of a 1960s classic while still maintaining many of the modern enhancements we have come to love, this Oris Divers Sixty-Five for $2100 is a great option to consider.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (ref. WBP231D.BA0626)

TAG Heuer is a brand with many identities. They have a strong vintage archive and are known for producing some of the most collectible vintage recreation watches available. They also have a more modern side that pushes the boundaries of engineering with watches like their Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. 

But if there was one aspect of TAG Heuer that they are most known for outside of the watch enthusiast community, it is definitely their entry-level luxury watches, many of which come from their Aquaracer line. This line of dive watches covers the entry-level luxury segments and is available in several sizes and color iterations.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300, ref. WBP231D.BA0626, is a 36mm stainless steel watch that comes on a matching stainless steel bracelet. Despite the smaller size, the watch shares the design language of its larger offering with the striped dial, 6 o’clock date, and dodecagon-shaped bezel (sounds crazy, but really just has some flat sides as opposed to the more standard circular shape). 

The watch is powered by the caliber 5 movement, which is a dressed-up version of the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. Coming in at a price of roughly $3300, this watch is on the higher end of watches featuring this movement, but given the quality of the watch and name cache of the brand, there is quite a bit of value in this timepiece.

6. Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition (ref. WW194026SS-0530)

If you are looking for a modern-day military spec watch, few brands can compete with Canadian-based Marathon. While other watch brands lean into their historical archives to recreate their watches with military provenance, Marathon is able to look in their current catalog.

The biggest surprise to me, however, is not just that watches are being produced under military specification, but that they are being produced in sizes that are down-right wearable by those of us with slender wrists.

The Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition, ref. WW194026SS-0530, is a great example of this capability. The 36mm stainless steel case is casual and wearable while maintaining the brutalist design language that made this watch a success in the larger variations. The arctic dial on this model absolutely pops while giving the dial an even smaller appearance with the contrasting black bezel. 

The watch is powered by the M2 Marathon movement, based on the Sellita SW200-1, and features a very robust 300M of water resistance. Coming in at a price of $1100 on the rubber strap, this Marathon diver is a great option for anyone looking for a modern take on a military dive watch.

7. Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm (ref. T120.210.11.041.00)

There are few brands that can offer the wide breadth of watches that SWATCH-owned Tissot can. From vintage recreations to modern classics, Tissot has a watch that will fit almost any need. One area that Tissot does not receive enough credit, however, is their ability to create very capable sports watches.

Tissot is pushing the boundaries of robustness more than any other entry-level luxury brand. While these innovations are definitely appreciated by the community, their ability to produce these watches in sizes anyone can enjoy is often overlooked.

The Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm, ref. T120.210.11.041.00, is a perfect example of a capable and versatile timepiece at a very comfortable price point for most enthusiasts at $395. What’s the Kicker? The watch is powered by a quartz movement. 

Before you rule this one out, think of its purpose and whether or not a quartz movement actually makes more sense here. I love mechanical movements as much as the next enthusiast, but if you’re looking for a robust and affordable engine for your watch, it is not going to be powered by a Swiss lever escapement and a mainspring; it will be powered by a quartz crystal. 

This 36mm stainless steel watch ticks a lot of boxes that we are looking for in an everyday or “beater” watch and even features a stunning blue dial, 300M of water resistance, and a better-than-expected stainless steel bracelet. If you are willing to look past the quartz movement, you can get yourself the best deal on the list with this Tissot Seastar 1000.

8. Breitling Superocean Heritage 36 (ref. A17377211C1A1)

When you think of the brand Breitling, more than likely, a highly complicated chronograph design for pilots comes to mind. Breitling has created a remarkable legacy for itself in this space, but they do create many other watches that are worthy of attention. The Breitling Superocean line is one that deserves more attention than it currently receives. This line of dive watches is very broad and contains options for almost anyone.

The Breitling Superocean Heritage 36, ref. A17377211C1A1, features a 36mm stainless steel case and illustrates the Superocean lines’ versatility beautifully. Available in several different colors at this 36mm case size (as well as the other sizes as well), the turquoise dial option really stands out for me. Accentuated by the cream-colored chapter ring and silver bezel color, the vividness of the turquoise immediately grabs your attention. 

The watch is powered by a derivative of the Sellita SW200-1, which is a pretty big hang-up for some, considering the $5,150 price tag on a stainless steel bracelet. In my opinion, if you are someone who values the look of your watch more than the fact that your movement has a proprietary design, this watch is a great option to consider.

9. Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm (ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set)

When you produce a watch as admired as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five in the entry-level luxury space, it is hard to believe that there is a lineup in their catalog that they are even more known for. That is, of course, the Oris Aquis. Where the Diver’s Sixty-Five plays into the historical charm of the 1960s, the Aquis is the complete opposite, featuring a much more modern aesthetic and integrated bracelet.

The Aquis has been around for several iterations and has been available in several sizes and dial options. My favorite of the bunch is the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm. ref. 01 733 7770 4150. As the name suggests, this version is the more compact 36.5mm case and features a unique dial composed of recycled ocean plastic producing a unique dial for every watch. 

Powered by a Sellita SW200-1 movement and featuring 300M of water resistance, this watch is ready for any task. Coming in at $2500, this version is a little bit of an increase in price over the standard Aquis, but given the unique look, absolutely worth the price.

10. Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm (ref. 16619540)

Homage watches are a sensitive subject among enthusiasts. Whether you love or loathe them, you can’t deny that they are great entryways into the world of horology. Not everyone has the budget for a vintage Rolex or even Tudor Submariner, but thanks to Davosa, you can now get the look for a fraction of the price. 

The Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm, ref. 16619540, borrows almost all of its design identity from a midsize Tudor Submariner. While some may not be OK with that for the $899 they are asking, others will have no problem.

While the ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and Super-LumiNova are all modern features of a watch in current production, the design language of this watch follows most closely that of the 5-digit Submariner line. While I understand that this model may not be for everyone, if you are able to look past the borrowed design, you can get a great watch for a great price. 

11. Glycine Combat Sub 36mm (ref. GL0397)

If you were to ask me a few years ago if I would ever recommend a watch produced by the Invicta group to a group of watch enthusiasts, I would have given myself whiplash from shaking my head side to side so aggressively. 

Although Glycine still operates as an independent watchmaker, they are very much owned by Invicta. Thankfully for us, they are continuing to produce quality Swiss-made watches for affordable prices, even though you may have to look through the Invicta pricing smoke screen.

The Glycine Combat Sub, ref. GL0397, is a 36mm dive watch that takes inspiration from the Submariner design language. They are not as “inspired” as the Davaso mentioned earlier, but the resemblance is there. What makes this watch fun and different is the case treatment Glycine has decided to go with. 

This Glycine Combat Sub features a gold-plated case and bracelet, giving this watch a touch of class or gaudiness, depending on your view of gold watches. The pricing on this watch is all over the map ranging from the MSRP of roughly $1550 (don’t pay that!) down to $598 through some other retailers.

The look is unique, and if you are able to pick this up on the lower end of this range, you’ll get yourself a unique take on a Submariner-inspired watch with 300M of water resistance and a Sellita SW200-1 as well.

12. Armida A11 36mm (ref. 00055)

Armida is a brand that has developed quite a fan following amongst the micro-brand enthusiast community. Their clean and classic designs that borrow just enough from more mainstream watchmakers and robust construction help to separate this brand from the hundreds of others in the price range. 

The Armida A11, ref. 00055, is a great example of this ethos. The 36mm stainless steel case features an ETA 2836-2 movement with day and date complication. The unique placement of this day/date complication at 6 O’clock on the dial helps to give this timepiece a unique look, despite the familiar black dial, black bezel, and Mil-Spec Submariner dial and handset.

This watch comes in at $399 and represents a tremendous value for a watch with a Swiss-made movement, quality construction, and compact size.

13. Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm (ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6)

After years of relative obscurity compared to their price equivalent competition, Alpina has finally started to break out of their shell and garner more mainstream attention. With several strong product lines to their credit, the Seastrong Diver is one of the favorites among many collectors.

The Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm, ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6, is a different take on this winning formula. Although marketed as a ladies watch, a common fate for many watches in this size range, this 36mm watch features a polycarbonate and fiberglass case in a black finish that feels quite masculine.

The watch is paired with a bi-color blue nylon strap that complements the blue fume dial. This watch is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 and comes in at a price of $1595. If you are looking for a smaller dive watch that will stand out from the crowd, this Alpina Seastrong is a great option to consider.

14. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36mm (ref. 2252.50)

I am not one to typically repeat watches from the same watchmaker, let alone product line, but when a brand carries as much weight as Omega I am willing to make an exception. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 2252.50, in 36mm, is very similar to the Omega Seamaster we mentioned earlier.

The case, helium escape valve, and scalloped bezel are virtually identical between these two models. Despite the similarities, these watches couldn’t be further apart aesthetically. The blue dial and skeleton hands have been replaced by a black wave dial and standard sword hands, giving this model more of a Mil-Spec vibe than a Hollywood icon.

This seamaster is powered by the caliber 1120 based on the ETA 2892, and the aluminum bezel insert predates the ceramic found in the newer model. The subdued look helps this watch look more natural on the wrist today than its blue counterpart that feels distinctly 90s (not that that is a bad thing). 

These can be had anywhere from $2,000-$3,000, depending on the condition, and there is also a quartz version available with the same design for a little bit cheaper. If you’re looking for a luxury dive watch with some serious Military roots, the Omega Seamaster Diver, ref. 2252.50, is a great option to consider.

15. Vintage 36mm Skindiver

Alright, so I am kind of cheating here, but this style of watch definitely deserves a mention. The 1960s and early 1970s were the perfect cross-section of overproduction and lowered costs of manufacturing. There was no shortage of brands producing watches during this time, and because of this, there are still hundreds of thousands of them floating around in dresser drawers and garage sales, waiting to be discovered. 

Because of the interest in recreational diving and water activities like surfing and snorkeling, many of these watches carried the Skindiver case style, capable of decent water resistance, while costing significantly less than the true dive watches of the day from brands like Omega and Rolex. 

The 36mm case dimension was a favorite amongst brands due to its increased size compared to more casual timepieces of the era. Pricing for these watches varies from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars, depending on the brand and the condition. You may not be able to take these watches with you diving, but they will likely hold the memories of many others who did.

Seiko SRPJ85

The Seiko 5 Sport has blessed us with a series of 36mm diver watches. The SRPJ85 takes major themes from other members of its family (the sandy texture of the SRPJ83 and the modernized look of the SRPJ81) and blends them together on a black textured dial and smooth, cream-colored hands. Measuring in at a sleek size of 12.5mm thick, this watch is light as a feather, making it one of the best everyday field watches Seiko has ever produced. 

Seiko aims to give the audience what they want by combining design choices with the doubled-windowed hour and the needle-like second-hand with a glistening red time to add another coat of precise detail. Another feature I like is the stylish font they use for the Automatic, written just below the hands. 

The open case back displays the gorgeous 4R36 movement, faithfully beloved for its hacking and hand-winding capabilities that incorporate another layer of personality into the already extremely hands-on style. Overall, this is a very sleek build from Seiko, and as their Divers are already one of the most coveted watches out there, a slim and subtle aesthetic is a very nice addition. Plus, with a water resistance of 100m, you’re not losing any functionality.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, 15 of the best 36mm dive watches. Whether you just prefer a smaller watch, are a vintage enthusiast at heart, or only have the wrist to support a smaller dive watch there is a great option in this list for you. Thanks to the law of supply and demand, many of these watches can be had for a great price, slightly pre-owned, or straight from the Authorized Dealer with a discount. 

A 36mm dive watch certainly isn’t for everyone, but neither is 44mm or 42mm or even the universally loved 39mm. If you need more validation of the return to midsize dive watches, look no further than Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023. 

After years of carrying the torch of producing the most well-loved dive watch for smaller wrists with the Black Bay 59 at 39mm, they introduced the Black Bay 54 at an even more compact 37mm dimension with even more bells and whistles. If Tudor released this before revamping their flagship model in the Black Bay 58, there might be more weight behind this return to midsize watches trend than most of us even believed. 

Either way, more choices will always be a win for the enthusiast community as more and more people of different shapes and sizes can find the watch that fits their wrist and style perfectly!

Happy Watch Hunting!