Category: News

It is impossible to state definitively what the best watch brand is. As with most other things, you can come up with a group of worthy candidates, but it’s all subjective, and everyone has their own valid opinions. However, I think we would all agree that there is one brand that is more well-known than any other. That would be Rolex.

Ask 10 random people on the street to name a luxury watch brand, and it is highly likely that all of them will say Rolex. Hans Wilsdorf was a brilliant marketer and to this day, the brand has nearly 100% recognition.

A gold Rolex is the classic retirement gift, graduation present, or trophy for a life 

accomplishment. For millions of people, a Rolex is their grail watch. There is, however, a downside to being this well-known. 

The world is full of nefarious types who counterfeit everything from artwork to musical instruments and even money. Fake timepieces abound and Rolex is counterfeited more than any other brand. Take a walk down Canal Street in Lower Manhattan, and you will see dozens of fake Rolexes for sale.

If you dream of landing one of these prestigious timepieces on your wrist, especially if the price tag is a bit out of your range, you may be tempted to search for bargains. It is all too easy to be tricked, as counterfeiters have become very sophisticated and made some watches look very close to the real thing. Here’s what you need to know before delving into the marketplace.

The Telltale Signs of a Fake Rolex

Before we begin, you should be warned about buying online. Unless the company is a reputable watch shop, be wary of buying a Rolex. Determining whether a watch is real or fake from pictures on a website is nearly impossible unless you are an expert. Always look at any Rolex you are considering buying in person.

The first thing to do is to heft the watch. Rolex uses high-quality 904L stainless steel, 18K gold, and other precious metals in their timepieces. Counterfeits use cheaper materials that weigh less. The watch should feel solid. If it feels light and cheap, do not buy it.

Next, look at the fit and finish. Examine every component, dial, hands, indices, bezel, and bracelet. If parts look poorly cut or polished or pieces don’t fit nicely together, it’s a fake. Rolex takes great pride in its timepieces, and it does not let poorly made watches leave the factory. 

Another thing to note is that if you are looking at a Rolex that has both day and date complications, it should be made of gold or platinum. Rolex does not make day-dates in stainless steel. That is a sure sign of a fake.

Check the case back. Rolex does have a few models with exhibition case-backs, but they are rare. If the back of the case is not solid, pass on the watch. In their quest for elegance, most Rolex case-backs are plain. There are a few that are engraved, but be suspicious if the watch you are looking at does not have a plain case-back.

The magnifier that sits above the date complication on the Submariner and other models is called a cyclops. Rolex invented it, and it magnifies the numeral exactly 2.5 times. It is coated on the inside with a clear anti-reflective substance. 

If you see a tint of color in the cyclops or the date is hard to read and reflects glare, the watch is a fake. The date numeral should also be in an easy-to-read font and be perfectly centered in the window.

Now, we are going to check the rehaut. This is the ring around the inner surface that connects the dial to the bezel. It should have the name “Rolex” engraved several times around the circumference. Further, on the side from 12 o’clock to six, the “X” should line up with the hour markers. On the six to 12 side, the “R” will line up with the hour markers.

The engraving should be easy to read and have a high-quality look to it. At the six o’clock side of the rehaut, the serial number should be engraved and easy to read. If a serial number is present, you can look it up online to get more information about the watch. On the outside of the case between the lugs above 12 o’clock, the model number should be engraved. To see it, you will have to remove the bracelet or strap.

Rolex has become very clever in adding features to indicate that a watch is genuine. In 2002, they began engraving a small crown logo on the crystal at six o’clock. It’s hard to see with the naked eye unless the lighting and angle are perfect. Using a loupe or magnifying glass is the best way to check.

If the crown is not there, the watch is a fake. Also, the crown will be made up of a series of laser-engraved dots of varying depth. This is extremely difficult for a counterfeiter to get right and is one of the best ways to verify whether a Rolex is real or not. 

Remove the case back and look at the movement. On a genuine Rolex, the parts will be perfectly machined and finished and fit together with no gaps. Fakes don’t have the quality machining or polished finish of the real thing. Check the movement by winding the watch. On a real Rolex, it will feel smooth and be easy to turn the crown. If the movement feels gritty and doesn’t wind with ease, it’s a fake. 

Note that although Rolex has made models with quartz movements, they are rare. The vast majority of Rolexes have automatic movements, so if it’s a quartz, that should raise red flags.

Speaking of the crown, the Rolex logo, which is a crown, should be perfectly embossed on the crown. On recent models, there will be two or three dots or bars beneath the logo. Counterfeiters consistently miss this detail. The grooves on the sides of the crown should be perfectly cut and uniform in size and depth.

In addition to the quality of the bracelet or strap, find out which Rolex pairs with the model you are looking at. If the strap or bracelet is wrong, the watch could be fake. It might also be real but placed on a fake bracelet. The wrong combo should make you question the authenticity.

Finally, the Rolex logo on the bracelet clasp should be crisp, clear, and perfectly embossed. Fakes usually get this wrong and often it’s a poorly cut logo soldered on.

Are Fake Rolex Watches Worth It?

Now that you know how to spot a fake Rolex, you might be tempted to buy one anyway because they are priced so much lower than the real thing. There are many companies that make what they call., “Super Clones”. Own an exact copy of a Submariner for $1,500. 

Don’t fall for this. First, these watches are made from inferior materials and use generic movements that are nowhere near as accurate, precise, or durable as a real Rolex. That’s why they’re so cheap.

The biggest problem with buying a fake Rolex is that counterfeiting is illegal in most jurisdictions. Watchmakers can copy an unpatented Rolex design as long as they put their own name and logo on it.

Using the Rolex name and logo is trademark infringement. These companies can be prosecuted for fraud and false advertising. In many places, it is illegal to own a counterfeit product. If you knowingly buy a fake, you could find yourself in legal trouble. Also, if you buy one, you are stuck with it. It is against the law in most countries to sell a counterfeit item even if you inform the potential buyer that it is a fake. 

I would thus advise you against buying a fake Rolex. The possible exposure to legal trouble, coupled with the fact that you are hurting the brand, no matter how wealthy it is, make it a really bad idea. Think about it. If it’s not real, you will always be aware of it and never have the satisfaction that real Rolex owners enjoy. As for prestige, the average person will rarely notice that you are even wearing a watch and a horology connoisseur will likely spot it as a fake. 

How to Avoid Getting a Fake Rolex

If you are in the market for a Rolex, you want to avoid getting stuck with a fake. The most important thing to do is to carefully vet any seller. Stick with a Rolex authorized dealer or a grey market shop with a sterling reputation. Avoid eBay and Craig’s list. They are loaded with shady types and you don’t know who you are dealing with. 

Don’t buy online unless the dealer has a great reputation. Check out the watch you are considering in person. Examine it thoroughly and look for all of the issues we discussed. Don’t be afraid to ask lots of questions. You are taking a big risk and are entitled to all information about the watch. If the seller is not forthcoming in answering your questions, get out of there.

If you have a friend who is very knowledgeable about watches, take them with you. By all means, do not even consider any “Rolex” that is being offered at a ridiculously low price. Even Rolex’s lowest-priced brand-new models are going to run north of $10,000. 

Conclusion

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet and it has an enormous number of fans. As such, it is the most counterfeited. If you dream of owning a Rolex, keep in mind that there are probably as many fakes out there as real ones.

Purchasing a fake Rolex or super clone is not worth it. Go with an AD or seller with an impeccable reputation and save your money to buy a genuine Rolex. You will be much happier. One more tip. If the name on the dial is spelled, “Rolecks”, it’s probably a fake. 

If you aren’t familiar with Tissot or Citizen watches, you must be new to watch collecting, because even those interested in high-end haute horlogerie know about these two key players in the industry. 

Both are leaders in affordable timepieces, and both have a lot to offer the beginner watch collector. In fact, either of these two brands is a great choice if you’re a novice. They promise good quality materials and reliability and offer an array of stylish timepieces to suit all tastes and needs.

While Citizen is a Japanese brand, Tissot’s heritage is firmly rooted in Swiss soil. The former specializes in eco-friendly technology, while you can consider the latter a gateway to affordable luxury. 

Either way, whether you choose the popular Japanese giant or the famous Swiss hard-hitter, you can’t go wrong when it comes to finding a day-to-day companion without burning a hole in your pocket. But what many people are interested in knowing is how they both compare. Let’s take a look as we address the Tissot vs Citizen watch debate.

Tissot – An Overview

Tissot is an expert in crafting affordable yet stylish wristwatches. Not only does the brand offer its fair share of solar-powered timepieces, but its mechanical wristwatches are also incredibly popular. 

The brand bridges the gap between traditional-looking timepieces and modern innovation, having experienced huge success with its T-Touch technology back in the 1990s, not to mention its classically-inspired sports watch category. 

The Tissot PRX is one watch design you’ll likely be familiar with. It’s one of the brand’s most celebrated models, inspired by iconic designs created by the legendary Gerald Genta during the 1970s. Those looking for a cheaper alternative to the Royal Oak or Nautilus, therefore, will find the Tissot PRX a good fit.

That’s not to say that Tissot doesn’t offer something for those who like the great outdoors, however. The models from the Touch series are powered by quartz movements and allow users to access the features they need via a touchscreen. 

These technical watches come equipped with features like an altimeter, chronograph, barometer, step counter, and compass. Although slightly confusing, the PRX watch is part of the Swiss brand’s T-Classic collection, while sporty models like the Seastar and PRS are part of the T-Sports collection.

Above all, Tissot watches come in a huge variety of styles and features, including ETA movements and those that promise up to 80 hours of power reserve, promising outstanding value for money.

Citizen – An Overview

Citizen made waves in the industry from an early age with its ground-breaking technological advances. It has become one of the largest manufacturers in the entire world since its birth during the 1930s. 

If you’ve been doing your research on the brand, you’ll already be aware that Citizen is a key player in the realm of solar-powered timepieces with its Eco-Drive series, and it specializes in atomic time via GPS technology. 

The fact is, Eco-Drive technology and its innovative solar-powered features made many other Citizen watches redundant at the time of its release, yet this didn’t deter the brand or its success.

The advantages of Citizen’s Eco-Drive watches became obvious from the get-go. They were (and still are) incredibly precise, promising to keep accurate time, even when only exposed to light for a short period of time. 

The fact that they could sit dormant in a drawer for months, yet require just moments of sunlight to power back into action, made them super convenient and better for the environment, too, saving many battery replacements throughout their lifespan.

Some Citizen Eco-Drive watches even have a power saver mode that proves particularly useful when worn in dark conditions for periods of time. 

Exploring Citizen watches can be quite overwhelming, due to the sheer amount of options on offer, yet collections like the Elegant, Sports, Promaster, and Super Titanium prove the most popular, offering a myriad of styles and designs to choose from.

The Mechanical Classic series is another great place to explore if you want watches with respectable water-resistant capability. In contrast, the Promaster Sky model from the aforementioned Promaster series is a pilot’s watch with a twist, offering radio versions, some of which feature lightweight titanium cases, as well as countless features for calculating flight data while air-bound.

Brand Histories

A quick look at the histories of Tissot and Citizen will give you a little insight into their backgrounds and how they compare to one another. Looking at both side-by-side will hopefully enable you to make an informed decision about which brand is best for you.

Out of the two, Tissot is the oldest watch brand, arriving on the scene in 1853. The brand was responsible for developing the first mass-produced pocket watch, as well as the first anti-magnetic watch. 

It partnered up with Omega around the time that Citizen was born, granting it access to some incredible movements and great success with models like the Tissot Navigator – the first mass-produced watch featuring 24 time zones, along with the Tissot Seastar. The quartz revolution had a huge impact on Tissot’s watch production. 

Switching tactics, it played the quartz game, finding ways to survive its crushing effect on the mechanical watch industry. This tactical solution, however, opened up the pathway for one of the brand’s most revolutionary designs, the Tissot T-Touch, which arrived in 1999.

On the other hand, we have Citizen, a brand that truly thrived throughout the quartz era. The company has always focussed on two things: affordability and technology. It created Japan’s first fully waterproof watch in 1959, named the Parawater. 

This sparked the beginnings of the brand’s innovative dive watch series, but meanwhile, Citizen experts were focussing on something altogether different – Eco-Drive technology. It was one of the first solar-powered wristwatches, taking pride in an environmentally conscious approach to modern watchmaking.

In 1993, Citizen released a world first – a multi-band atomic timekeeping wristwatch. It worked by synchronizing and adjusting its time with atomic clocks all over the world. In doing so, it promised accuracy down to the nanosecond.

Citizen or Tissot – Movement and Technology

When comparing Citizen watches side-by-side with Tissot watches, it’s clear to see that both excel in terms of timekeeping technology. The features offered by a T-Touch watch from Tissot are similar to those you would find in a modern smartwatch, providing you with important metrics in real-time, as you go. 

On the other hand, Citizen mostly specializes in solar-powered quartz technology, which harnesses the energy from light and converts that into power used for accurate timekeeping. The benefit of this technology eradicates the need for regular battery replacements, allowing you to technically forget about your watch while you wear it. 

In contrast, Tissot’s automatic watches offer a collector a more traditional way to keep track of time, adding to the charm and the appeal of mechanical timekeeping. While quartz watches are easy to maintain, many connoisseurs share the opinion that they’re too simple, lacking the craftsmanship and complexity of a mechanical.

Tissot vs Citizen – Aesthetics and Design

Citizen watches vary from complex, futuristic-looking timepieces to those inspired by Japanese minimalism, affording simplistic, clean dial layouts despite the sophistication of their built-in solar-powered technology. 

On the other hand, Tissot watches are favored for their classic designs. Traditional three-handed models sit alongside timeless chronographs, while different dial colors and two-tone (steel and gold-colored) options add more variety to the collections.

Both brands have plenty to offer by way of design, features, and case sizes. Tissot is a great brand to turn to if you’re looking for an affordable sports watch, while Citizen has a superb range of tool watches from the Promaster series – a collection for land, sea, and sky.

Tissot Watches – the Best Recommendations

One easy way to determine whether a Tissot is for you or not is to take a look at some recommendations.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 T137.407.11.351.00

This Tissot Powermatic reference T137.407.11.351.00 is a great example that shows off all the sporty elegance of the Swiss brand’s popular PRX collection. Its dial, adorned with a distinctive waffle pattern, follows the design cues of the embossed dials seen in models like the Royal Oak and its iconic Grand Tapisserie dial. 

Its turquoise shade is reminiscent of the Tiffany dial that is showcased in the Patek Philippe Nautilus range, while its integrated bracelet is a must-have feature of any covetable steel sports watch. With sweet spot dimensions of 40mm, the Tissot PRX really is an entry-level into the world of sports watch collecting and is powered by a movement that provides an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

Take a look at the gradient dial of this Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 watch. Perhaps the most inviting tones for gearing up for underwater exploration. And when taking this watch for a dip, you get to enjoy an impressive 600 meters of water resistance! 

The unidirectional bezel in black has a very readable 60-minute scale on its surface. You can also opt for the Seastar 2000 model with a black and gold gilt-coloured bezel, but there is something so sporty and tool-like about this blue gradient iteration, complete with a subtle wave-like surface texture that evokes the rippling waters of the ocean’s surface.

Citizen Watches – the Best Recommendations

Take a look at a couple of these superb bang-for-buck Citizen watch recommendations before deciding which brand is for you.

Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium NB6021-17E

Citizen offers some great dive watches in its Super Titanium watch collection – a series of timepieces that benefit from the lightweight and tactical nature of this popular material used in watchmaking. Take, for example, the Citizen Promaster Diver Automatic Super Titanium watch. 

It requires a broad wrist to carry its bold black-on-black case and strap design, yet its heft is cleverly counterbalanced by the lightweight qualities of the 200-meter water-resistant case. This watch is inspired by a historically important watch from Citizen’s archives – the 1977 Challenge Diver, which was found completely intact in 1983 on Long Reef Beach in Australia, having been exposed to the conditions of the Pacific Ocean for years. Thus, a model like this will appeal to those who like their watches to carry a little history and nostalgia.

Citizen Zenshin Chrono CA4610-85Z

The great thing about Citizen watches is the brand’s lightweight alternatives to the steel sports watch. The Citizen Zenshin Chrono ref CA4610-85Z has the integrated bracelet that collectors love so much about this style of watch. Crafted from Super Titanium, the watch features stepped chronograph counters in black against a textured salmon dial. 

A tachymeter scale also comes in handy for measuring speed based on distance. This watch is powered by Eco-Drive technology, and it never needs a battery. It promises 100 meters of water resistance and a tough sapphire crystal glass front.

The Tissot PRX or the Citizen Tsuyosa – A Comparison

One of the main comparisons collectors make when weighing up whether to purchase a Tissot watch or a Citizen watch is the Tissot PRX and the Citizen Tsuyosa. Both are easy to compare since they offer a similar aesthetic and are both powered by automatic movements.

Both the Citizen Tsuyosa and the Tissot PRX sit under the $1k bracket. The brand also offers a 40mm case width and a tonneau case shape that captures the ultra-popular steel sports watch aesthetic. Some subtle differences, however, include the case thickness – the Citizen Tsuyosa, which measures slightly thicker (12.2mm) than the PRX (11.2mm). 

This slight difference automatically means that the Tsuyosa will wear a little flatter against the wrist and will slide under the cuff of a shirt more easily. The latter also measures 1mm less in its lug-to-lug dimensions, too.

At a glance, the most obvious difference between these Citizen and Tissot watches is the dial finish. The Tsuyosa has a smooth sunray effect, while the PRX has the aforementioned waffle effect. 

Again, choosing between the two is simply down to preference, but if it’s an affordable Royal Oak you’re looking for, the PRX wins hands down on that front. An interesting feature of the Tsuyosa is the magnified lens above the date window at 3 o’clock, which the PRX lacks.

Bracelet-wise, the Citizen sports watch boasts rounded end links, while the Tissot sports watch has flatter links that are more reminiscent of models from a bygone era. The Tsuyosa is powered by a very basic Miyota movement. 

Nevertheless, it’s a reliable workhorse, producing a steady 40 hours of power reserve. Conversely, Tissot equips its PRX watch with the refined Powermatic engine, which is complete with double the power reserve of the Tsuyosa.

Although both of these watches are very similar in terms of design and features, in my opinion, the PRX wins over the Tsuyosa for a couple of reasons. 

Firstly, the PRX has a slightly more ergonomic design, sitting flatter on the wrist and making it more suited to office environments. Secondly, for a couple of hundred bucks more, you can enjoy a movement with double the power reserve, and the execution of the dial evokes a superior and more sophisticated finish.

Which is the Right Brand for You?

We can simplify the Tissot vs Citizen debate by looking at the key facts about each brand. Tissot offers some great affordable automatic watches for under $500, which make for absolute steals compared to the price of some Swiss alternatives. 

The company quickly learned how to take Swiss craftsmanship and convert it into designs that appealed to the mass market, and it certainly paid off. Some automatic Tissot watches are powered by mechanical movements that provide longer power reserves too, and even feature exhibition casebacks.

Above all, Tissot watches can be as classic and simple as you like, many of which exude a sportiness that makes for some great casual daily beaters.

Citizen watches cover a slightly broader price spectrum, with models priced as low as $200 for an Eco-Drive watch. Their aesthetics have a strong utilitarian vibe, while plenty of simple quartz models have classic aesthetics.

So, Citizen or Tissot – which is the better brand? The answer to that quandary really lies in personal preference and remains a matter of priority. Are you willing to splash out a little more for an automatic Tissot, or is the unbeatable precision of a Citizen watch more important to you?

When first venturing into the world of watches, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the variety of models, styles, and terminology. Like any hobby, understanding the jargon is key to navigating the wealth of information surrounding wristwatches. 

Every timepiece you wear carries a rich history, beginning with its purpose. Since their inception, watches have been essential tools, often playing pivotal roles in the history of various professions. Among these, the dive watch is one of the most iconic and enduring designs.

Dive watches have become a favorite among enthusiasts for daily wear. Both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike agree that a dive watch is a cornerstone of any collection. With countless options spanning brands, price points, and depth ratings, there’s a dive watch to suit every style and need. 

Originally designed as a tool for divers exploring the ocean’s depths, these timepieces have evolved into icons of horology, with historic models from some of the world’s most renowned brands cementing their status as timeless staples. Let’s take a brief dive into the history of dive watches. 

History of Diving Watches

In the 1920s, as wristwatches began to replace pocket watches, designers faced the challenge of creating cases that could better protect the delicate mechanisms inside. While a patent for a waterproof pocket watch had been introduced in the late 1800s, dust and water remained significant threats to early wristwatches. 

This period marked the beginning of innovations that would eventually lead to the development of fully water-resistant watches. Developments that might have taken decades under normal circumstances were rapidly accelerated by the necessity and urgency brought about by war.

World War I united the watchmaking industry with military forces worldwide to design wristwatches capable of withstanding the harsh and unforgiving conditions soldiers faced on the battlefield. 

This collaboration led to the development of watches robust enough to endure the pressures of submarine missions. Featuring screw-down casebacks and crowns, compressible gaskets, and highly legible dials, the best was still yet to come. In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, introduced one of the first truly waterproof watches: the Rolex Oyster. 

This groundbreaking timepiece featured a screw-down caseback, bezel, and crown, with the crown mechanism incorporating a seal ring to prevent water ingress. These innovations established the Oyster as a pioneering design in waterproof watches. 

Despite these advancements, designers didn’t yet realize they were laying the groundwork for something greater. While their focus was on creating a waterproof watch, they were inadvertently developing the foundation for what would become the first authentic dive watch.

In 1932, Omega introduced the “Marine,” a groundbreaking wristwatch designed, tested, and certified to withstand depths of up to 135 meters. Featuring a cork-sealed double case and a sapphire crystal, the “Marine” was a true innovation in waterproof technology. Its exceptional performance earned the endorsement of Yves Le Prieur, a commander and pioneering aquanaut often referred to as the grandfather of scuba diving.

While the “Marine” was a remarkable achievement, the postwar era saw a surge in demand for more durable and reliable dive watches as scuba diving gained popularity. This growing interest spurred watchmakers to innovate, laying the foundation for the modern dive watch. 

The early 1950s marked a pivotal moment with the debut of two of the most iconic and influential timepieces designed specifically for diving. Their groundbreaking designs and features would set the standard for all dive watches that followed. 

In 1954, Rolex unveiled their legendary “Submariner” at the Basel Watch Fair. Although the brand had previously tested its “Deep Sea” model aboard the Trieste in 1953, reaching an astonishing depth of 3,150 meters, it was the Submariner that truly defined the dive watch category. Featuring a highly legible dial, a rotating bezel for tracking dive times, and a bracelet extension to fit over wetsuits, the Submariner became an instant commercial success.

Around the same time, Blancpain introduced their groundbreaking “Fifty Fathoms,” an equally impressive dive watch that prioritized functionality and durability. 

While the Submariner gained widespread public acclaim, the Fifty Fathoms became the preferred choice of military units worldwide, solidifying its place as a classic among professional divers.

Top 10 Best Watches For Divers

A century later, the dive watch has secured its place at the top of every enthusiast’s want and need list. Its enduring appeal transcends its original purpose, making it a coveted accessory for collectors, professionals, and casual wearers alike. 

Combining robust functionality with timeless design, the dive watch remains a symbol of adventure and reliability, evolving with the times while staying true to its roots. 

An essential part of any watch collection, the dive watch seamlessly blends functionality and style. Perfect for daily wear, these timepieces are versatile enough to switch effortlessly between metal bracelets, leather, or NATO straps. 

Whether you’re a professional diver or a casual swimmer, dive watches offer reliability and elegance for any occasion. Here are the top ten dive watches on the market, ready to take the plunge into the depths with you.

1. TUDOR Pelagos 42mm (ref. M25600TN-0001)

First on our list is the TUDOR Pelagos, a dive watch that lives up to its name, derived from the Greek word for “deep sea.” Introduced in 2012, the Pelagos quickly became a favorite among horology and diving enthusiasts. 

It features a 42mm case crafted from steel and titanium, making it both lightweight and durable. The unidirectional black ceramic bezel pairs seamlessly with the matching dial, which includes a date window at 3 o’clock. With a robust 70-hour power reserve, an impressive 500 meters of water resistance, and a helium escape valve at the 9 o’clock position, the Pelagos is a stylish and highly functional tool, perfect for deep-sea exploration. 

This remarkable timepiece is available at a retail price of $5,025

2. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

Omega has crafted numerous iconic timepieces throughout its rich history, and the Seamaster Diver 300M is yet another masterpiece in its lineup. From accompanying deep-sea explorers to gracing the wrist of Agent 007 on the silver screen, this model is a symbol of both function and style. 

At Baselworld 2018, Omega unveiled a refreshed design that quickly became a favorite among enthusiasts. The Seamaster Diver 300M features a 42mm stainless steel case and is powered by the Calibre 8800, offering a 55-hour power reserve and certified precision. Its striking design includes a blue unidirectional ceramic bezel, a textured blue wave-patterned dial, and a date window positioned at 6 o’clock. 

A helium escape valve at 10 o’clock adds a functional touch for saturation divers. Priced at $5,900, this modern classic combines rich heritage, cutting-edge technology, and the flair of cinematic legend—ready for your next dive or a secret mission.

3. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm Black Dial (ref. 5010 12B30 B52B)

No list of iconic dive watches is complete without the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. If it’s missing, that list simply doesn’t hold water. Priced at $18,400, the Fifty Fathoms Automatique transcends the realm of luxury dive watches, representing the pinnacle of dive watch engineering and design. 

This legendary timepiece stands apart, setting the standard for underwater timekeeping. Crafted with a 42mm titanium case, a unidirectional black bezel, and a matching minimalist black dial, the Fifty Fathoms is designed for optimal legibility in any condition. With an impressive 300-meter water resistance, this watch is built to endure the most demanding underwater environments. 

Its standout feature, however, is the remarkable 120-hour power reserve, powered by Blancpain’s Calibre 1315 movement—a testament to the brand’s dedication to innovation and reliability. Whether you’re a professional diver or a hobbyist passionate about exploring the deep, the Fifty Fathoms is the ultimate diver’s watch, combining functionality, history, and enduring style in one exceptional timepiece.

4. Rolex Sea-Dweller (ref. 126600)

Much like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, but carving its own distinct legacy, the history between Rolex and dive watches spans decades. This storied relationship is celebrated and honored with the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 126600. 

Released in 2017 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller, this reference is a modern reinterpretation of a legendary tool watch. While it may not enjoy the widespread market appeal of Rolex’s more iconic models, the Sea-Dweller remains a true diver’s companion, crafted for those who venture into the depths. 

The ref. 126600 boasts a robust 43mm Oystersteel case, powered by Rolex’s in-house Calibre 3235, offering an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Its design features a sleek black rotating bezel, a matching black dial, and a Cyclops lens over the date at 3 o’clock. This professional-grade dive watch is water-resistant to an astounding 1220 meters, making it a reliable and stylish choice for serious underwater adventurers. 

Priced at $13,250, the Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 is a testament to Rolex’s heritage and engineering excellence.

5. Grand Seiko Sports SBGA463

Out of all the brands on this list, seeing a Grand Seiko entry might initially seem surprising. However, when you consider the roots of this luxury brand, it’s no wonder that Seiko crafted a high-grade tool watch capable of competing with the best dive watches on the market. 

Released in the winter of 2021 alongside the SBGA461, the SBGA463 exemplifies Grand Seiko’s commitment to merging luxury with functionality. Constructed from high-intensity titanium, this dive watch offers a robust water resistance of 200 meters. 

Its 44mm case features a ceramic rotating bezel with clearly marked hour indicators, perfectly paired with an understated black dial emphasizing simplicity and utility. Equipped with LumiBrite on the hands, markers, and bezel, the SBGA463 guarantees exceptional legibility, even in low-light underwater environments. 

True to Grand Seiko’s mission of redefining what a wristwatch is capable of in both style and function, the SBGA463 delivers on all fronts. Priced at $7,300, it strikes the perfect balance between luxury and efficiency, making it an ideal choice for divers and enthusiasts.

6. Oris Aquis Date 43.5mm (ref. 01 733 7730 4134-07 8 24 05PEB)

In a world dominated by Swiss brands, especially in the dive watch segment, the Oris Aquis Date is a standout entry-level timepiece that delivers exceptional value. Priced at $2,400, the Aquis Date combines style and substance with its robust 43mm stainless steel case and an impressive 300 meters of water resistance. 

Powered by the reliable Oris caliber 733-1, it offers a 41-hour power reserve, ensuring consistent performance. The watch features a sleek black rotating bezel and a matching black dial, complete with a date window conveniently placed at the 6 o’clock position.

For those new to dive watches and seeking a high-quality option under $5,000, the Oris Aquis Date is an excellent choice that balances affordability and functionality.

7. Longines Hydroconquest GMT (ref. L3.790.4.96.6)

By no means am I adding this watch to the list out of bias, but I’d be lying if I said the Longines HydroConquest wasn’t one of my personal favorites. Introduced in 2007, this collection reimagined the dive watch with a contemporary aesthetic, setting itself apart from Longines’ more vintage-inspired models like the Legend Diver and Skin Diver. 

In 2023, the HydroConquest collection saw a remarkable enhancement by introducing a GMT feature powered by Longines’ new in-house caliber L844.5. One model from this line features a striking deep blue ceramic rotating bezel with bold hour markers, perfectly complemented by a matching blue dial and a date window at the 3 o’clock position. 

With a 41mm case, 300 meters of water resistance, and a modern design, the HydroConquest GMT is a testament to Longines’ ability to blend functionality and style. It’s the latest marvel to emerge from the Longines camp, embodying the brand’s continued commitment to excellence.

8. Seiko LX Prospex SNR029

As mentioned previously, it should come as no surprise that Seiko earns a spot on the list of top ten tool watches. With a long-standing reputation for creating reliable, innovative, and accessible timepieces, Seiko has consistently showcased its expertise in designing watches that endure both daily wear and extreme conditions. 

This is exemplified by the Seiko LX Prospex SNR029. With “Prospex” standing for “Professional Specifications,” the SNR029 meets the highest standards of quality expected from a professional-grade dive watch. Housed in a lightweight yet robust 44mm titanium case, this timepiece is powered by the Caliber 5R65 Spring Drive movement, a hallmark of precision and innovation also seen in Grand Seiko models.

Boasting 300 meters of water resistance, a highly legible dial, and a ceramic rotating bezel, the SNR029 is a flawless companion for professional divers. Priced at $6,500, it represents a premium offering in Seiko’s lineup, combining technical prowess with enduring style.

9. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic Edition Blue and White (ref. ZO9590)

While the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dominated the spotlight in the 1950s dive watch scene, a smaller Swiss brand quietly made waves with its own noteworthy contribution. 

Zodiac, a brand with deep roots in horology, gained recognition in the 1970s with the release of the Super Sea Wolf, boasting an impressive 750-meter water resistance. This innovative dive watch was a significant achievement for the era and solidified Zodiac’s place in the dive watch category. Today, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf ZO9590 maintains its legacy with a modern twist. It features a light blue rubber bracelet, a white rotating bezel, and a dark blue dial. 

Housed in a durable 41mm ceramic case, the watch is powered by the Caliber STP 1-11, offering a 44-hour power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. Priced at $1,795, the ZO9590 offers great value for a dive watch that combines style, functionality, and a rich history.

10. DOXA 1500T Caribbean (ref. 883.10.201.10)

The last entry on our list is certainly not the least in terms of diving efficiency. Inspired by the iconic SUB 300, DOXA’s 1500T is a titan when it comes to specifications. 

With a robust 1500-meter water resistance, this timepiece is built to withstand extreme depths, making it a true tool watch for professional divers. The 1500T is equipped with a ceramic bezel, a striking orange dial, and a 42mm titanium case, providing both durability and a bold, eye-catching design. 

Powered by the Swiss-made ETA 2824-2 movement, the 1500T ensures precise timekeeping under the most challenging conditions. With its unique design, unparalleled performance, and decent price point of $2,490, the DOXA 1500T stands as a powerful contender in the world of dive watches.

Conclusion

If you’re in the market for a durable, stylish everyday watch, dive watches are an excellent place to start. They strike the perfect balance between functionality and design, offering qualities that any enthusiast can appreciate. All the watches on our list boast rich histories, impeccable style, and the capability to explore depths once thought unimaginable.

Watch enthusiasts often spend thousands of dollars to obtain the “grail” they’ve longed for (guilty as charged!). Still, one of the pleasures of the hobby is that you don’t have to break the bank to be a happy collector who owns a quality timepiece you can proudly wear.

I occasionally consult with new collectors and those seeking to buy a watch as a gift who want both quality and affordability in their purchases. As it turns out, they often cite $500 as their  “sweet spot” price point, and it’s always rewarding to help them reach their goals.

This article serves as a guide for those seeking a watch under $500 and an illustration of the wide variety of timepieces available in that range that can potentially meet the needs, interests, and tastes of nearly everyone.

How to Choose a Watch Under $500

There are several factors to consider to choose a watch for under $500. For many, the brand is a primary concern. Does one choose a popular brand such as Seiko, or is one comfortable considering a lesser-known one combining many desirable features into a value-added package? There’s no right or wrong answer, just an honest assessment of one’s preferences and comfort level with wearing  “the watch less worn”.

Another important question is the purpose: “What does the wearer want from their watch?” Does the owner need a sturdy sports or field watch that will hold up and perform well in rugged conditions? 

Or is a dressier watch required for an office setting or more formal occasions? A common goal is to own a “go anywhere, do anything” (GADA) piece that performs well and looks sharp for a broad range of situations.

Closely related to purpose are materials and build quality. For active persons, steel or resin cases with high impact and water resistance are desirable. For more common wear situations, one might want a watch with finer quality finishing, such as polished steel or even gold, that will help it stand out in a crowded room.

Another characteristic to consider is size, which includes case diameter, thickness, and lug-to-lug distance, all of which affect how the watch looks and feels on the wrist. In the past, sports and men’s watches tended to be larger, while dress and women’s watches were smaller. 

Current trends include smaller sizes for men (especially the 38-41mm case diameter range that tends to fit a wide variety of wrist sizes) and larger watches for women. In fact, many argue that when it comes to watch size, “unisex” is a preferable term over strict gender categories.

Finally, there’s the mechanism that powers the watch. Manual wind and self-winding (automatic) mechanical watches are “living, beating” machines that possess an intricate, dynamic beauty that is best appreciated when viewed through a caseback display window. 

Battery-powered, primarily quartz, watches have the advantage of being more accurate than mechanical ones and offer the convenience of “setting it and forgetting it”. Some mechanisms combine the best of both modalities.

Top 15 Best Watches Under $500

The list of the top 15 best watches under $500 covers a wide range of purposes, materials, sizes, and mechanisms.

1. Seiko Sports SPRD51

The Japanese brand Seiko is one of the most recognizable in the world, and their Seiko 5 Sports line replaces the venerable SKX diver and offers a large number of offerings that fit almost everyone and every occasion. 

The Seiko Sports SPRD51 is a diver-style sports watch with a 42.5mm diameter stainless steel case, 13.5mm thickness, 46mm lug-to-lug distance, and a matching 3-link bracelet. The dial is sunburst blue with a matching blue, unidirectionally rotating dive bezel, along with lumed indices and handset. The crystal is Seiko’s Hardlex, which is impact-resistant but more prone to scratches than sapphire. 

It has 100m/300ft of water resistance, enough to suit most water sports needs, and a push-pull, unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position. The Seiko 4R36 automatic movement provides a 40-hour power reserve and day/date complication at the 3:00 o’clock position, which is seen through a display caseback. Retail: $325.

2. Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic NJ0151-53M

Citizen is another famous brand with a wide range of watches under $500. Tsuyosa is the Japanese word for “strength”, and this model is strong in both value and a sporty style that leans into the retro, integrated designs of the 1970s. 

Its stainless steel case has a 40mm diameter, is a svelte 11.7mm thick, and has a modest lug-to-lug distance of 45mm, providing a good fit for most wrist sizes. The matching stainless steel bracelet has rounded links that taper from 22mm at the lugs to 18mm at the stamped, double push-button clasp. 

The dial is “turquoise”, but could also be described as the popular “ice blue”, and has a sunburst finish, lumed baton indices, and a date window at 3 o’clock. With only 50 meters of water resistance, it’s better suited for regular everyday wear. The Miyota Caliber 8210 movement has a 40 hour power reserve. Retail: $450.

3. Orient Kamasu RA-AA0004E19A

Orient is a Japanese brand founded in 1952 and known for feature-packed watches at a low price point. The “Kamasu” dive watch is one of their cornerstone models with a 42mm case diameter, 13mm width, 45mm lug-to-lug distance, and a strap-friendly 22m lug width.

It’s sealed with a sapphire crystal, solid caseback, and a screw-down crown that provide 200m/660ft of water resistance. It’s crowned with a 120-click, unidirectional bezel with an aluminum insert. The case and matching stainless steel bracelet have a mix of polished and brushed finishing. There is a wide range of dial/bezel color options, the brightly lumed, applied indices and handset provide good legibility, contrast, and depth. 

There’s a handy day/date window at 3 o’clock. The F6992 caliber movement is hackable, has a 40-hr power reserve, and beats at 21,600 vph. I own the red dial/black bezel “Coke” Kamasu, and it’s my go-to watch for serious water activities. Retail: $335.

4. Seiko Presage SPRD37

This Seiko model is nicknamed the “Mockingbird” after a crafted drink concocted by award-winning bartender Ishigaki Shinobu. It’s a simple 3-handed, date-at-3 dress watch with a stainless steel case diameter of 40.4mm, 11.8mm thickness, 45mm lug-to-lug distance, and 20mm lug width. 

The dial is a rich and beautiful British racing green with sunburst finishing and is capped with a vintage-style domed Hardlex crystal and display caseback. The crown is cupcake style, fluted, and signed. It has no-lume Dauphine hands and a gold-colored, diamond-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand. 

The strap is brown leather and has a tri-fold push-button release clasp. The 4R35B movement beats at 21,600 vph and has a 41-hr power reserve with 23 jewels. The 50m of water resistance is typical of a dress watch and not suitable for rugged activities, but it should handle minor splashes with ease. Retail: $425.

5. Casio G-Shock GST-B400BB-1A Steel

Casio G-Shock watches are renowned for their “take anything” durability and are the watch of choice for many outdoor workers, sports enthusiasts, and military personnel, including special forces. So iconic, they’re almost a collector’s rite of passage. 

This 2021 release has a more upscale feel than most G-Shocks, combining both analog and digital features in a carbon core, black ion-plated, stainless steel case with a 49.6mm diameter, a surprisingly thin 12.9mm thickness, and 44.6mm lug-to-lug width. 

The large size, along with the analog hands, digital registers (“ana-digi” hybrid), large pushers, and multi-tiered case, produce a prominent wrist presence and impressive depth. It has a tough mineral crystal and water resistance up to 200m. Bluetooth smartphone connectivity adds extra convenience for setting the watch and managing its functions, and the Tough Solar movement is long-lasting and so accurate you can set all your other watches by it. Retail: $400.

6. Seiko Sports GMT SSK003

Seiko’s 2022 release of a Sport GMT line capable of tracking multiple time zones set a new standard for a sub-$500 mechanical GMT watch. Similar in size and shape to the beloved SKX, it has an unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position, 42.5mm stainless steel case diameter, 13.6mm thickness, and 46mm lug-to-lug distance. 

The SSK003 has a blue dial and a  black/blue 24-hr bidirectional, friction-fit bezel. Its “Jubilee-like” stainless steel bracelet and date window with cyclops at 3 o’clock nod to the “Batgirl” Rolex GMT Master II. There is a Hardlex crystal and caseback window displaying the 4R34 movement with a 40-hr power reserve, 21,600 vph, and 24 jewels. 

The indices, syringe hour and broad arrow minutes hand, and tip of the red, arrow-shaped GMT hands are filled with Lumibrite for easy legibility and contrast. I wore my own Seiko GMT SSK003 for inspiration as I wrote this! Retail: $475  

7. Orient Bambino Version 7 ref. RA-AC0M03S10B

In addition to their renowned divers, Orient also produces the classic “Bambino” (the name bestowed by its cult-like following, not the company) date-at-3 dress watch, which represents an excellent value proposition and a wide open gateway into watch collecting. It has a 38.4mm stainless steel case diameter, is 12.5mm thick, and has a modest 44mm lug-to-lug width, which fits most wrist sizes well. 

The domed mineral crystal exudes a warm, vintage vibe, and the exhibition caseback displays the Caliber F6724 movement, which is hackable and has a 40-hour power reserve. Like many dress watches, the hands are simple, elegant, and unlumed, and the silvery white dial will go well with dressier ensembles, whether work casual or formal. 

The watch is further adorned with a black leather strap and a signed onion-style, push-pull crown and has the usual modest 30m of water resistance common in dress watches. Retail: $270

8. Seiko Prospex King Turtle SRPE03

The story of Seiko’s cushion-style case professional dive watch dates back to the 1970s, and this 2022 reissue retains that “vintage hip” vibe while providing modern updates. As stated on the dial, this is an ISO-certified “Diver’s” watch providing 200m/660ft of water resistance.

Updates include a ceramic bezel insert and deeper angular grooving in the unidirectional bezel edge for better gripping underwater with gloves. The case size is 45mm in diameter, 13.3mm thick, with a 47.7mm lug-to-lug distance, and is sealed with a sapphire crystal,  solid caseback, and screw-down, unsigned crown at the 4 o’clock position. 

The dial has a waffle pattern, a day/date window at 3 o’clock, and a black dial and black bezel (other colorways are available). The traditional Seiko diver handset is filled with Lumibrite. The movement is the reliable workhorse Seiko Caliber 4R36 with a 41 hr. power reserve and beat rate of 21,600 vph. Retail: $500.

9. Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000D-1 Metal

The G-Shock model’s squarish case/dial design hearkens back to the “OG” all-digital DW-5000C from 1983. But instead of all resin construction, this reference has a mixed brush/polished finished stainless steel case and bracelet for a more upscale feel and look. 

Still, there is shock-resistant resin inserted between the case and bezel, which, along with the impact-resistant mineral glass crystal, enable the watch to hold up the heavy abuse of rough conditions. The case has a screw-in caseback and is 49.3mm x 43.2mm in diameter with 200m/660ft of water resistance. 

The watch has the familiar G-Shock features and functions (LED display backlighting, world time, timer, calendar, stopwatch, and alarm) but also contemporary features such as Bluetooth connectivity, long-lasting, Tough Solar movement with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, and Multiband 6 radio which can synch with the atomic clock in six different time zones. Retail: $550.

10. Laco Pilot Basic Augsburg 42 ref. 861688.2

Flieger (“aviator”) style watches are highly regarded and sought after, and the “Made in Germany” Laco Pilot Basic Augsburg 42 is an excellent entry-level piece similar to those worn by Luftwaffe pilots in World War II. 

Pilot watches must enable “telling time at a glance”, and ease of use, and this reference meets this requirement with its highly contrasting, wide-faced, black matte dial and white SuperLuminova Arabic numeral hour indices, triangle, and two dots at 12 for orientation, oversized onion crown, and riveted leather strap. 

The sand-blasted stainless steel case has a sapphire crystal and is 42mm in diameter, 11.7mm in thickness, and has a 50mm lug-to-lug distance. It only has a water resistance of 50m, but if you need more than that, there may be something seriously wrong with your plane! The Miyota 821A movement is easy to regulate and service and helps keep costs down. Retail $410.

11. Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Salmon Dial on Strap ref. 87043Q17

Nivada Grenchen is a lesser-known but top-shelf Swiss brand dating back to 1926 and perhaps most known for being among the first to produce automatic watches and their participation in various 20^th century Antarctic expeditions. 

This chronograph uses 1970s art deco “Paul Newman” font and design cues. It also stands out with its salmon dial, tan-colored 24 hr., 60 min., and running seconds subdials, and white gradient minute track in the periphery. The stainless steel case has a 38mm diameter, 12.95 thickness, a lug-to-lug distance of 46.5mm, is capped with a slightly domed sapphire crystal, and sealed with a solid caseback. 

A unique feature is the “hybrid” Seiko TMI VK53A meca-quartz movement which combines quartz accuracy with the mechanical function for the timing seconds hand. This reference is a  “Limited Edition”, per the company, but they don’t say how many. Retail: $479.

12. Unimatic UC2 Classic

Unimatic was founded in Italy in 2015 by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato. The U2 Classic, cleverly dubbed “The Bono” by fans, is a field watch and capable diver with a screw-down crown and robust 300m/1000ft water resistance. 

It has a minimalist and modern aesthetic that includes a black dial with sparse lettering and lots of negative space, along with round, pale green SuperLuminova hour indices, baton hands, triangle at 12, and a basic hashed minute track chapter ring.

The all-brushed, stainless steel case is 38.5mm in diameter, 12.mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 47.5mm, and houses a hackable Seiko NH35A movement with a 41 hr. power reserve, 21,600 vph,  and 24 jewels. It comes on a black fabric strap and has a solid caseback with an engraved “Rosa dei Venti” diagram depicting wind patterns used in navigation. Retail: $425.

13. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical with Tritium (GPM) 34mm

Founded in 1939, Marathon is a Canadian brand that has the distinction of being the last remaining official supplier of watches for the Canadian and U.S. armed forces. U.S.-issued watches carry an engraved, solid caseback indicating its conformity with the United States Military Standard MIL-PRF-46374G. 

This model is monochrome, with a black fabric strap, black dial, and 34mm stainless steel case with a black fiber shell (sage green and desert tan are also available). The small case diameter is best for smaller wrists or those seeking a “MIL-vintage” vibe. The movement is a hackable Seiko NH35 with a 41-hour power reserve. 

A unique feature of this and other Marathon models is the use of radioactive Tritium, safely stored in tubes, for the lumed indices and hands. Tritium will not be as bright as more modern luminescent materials, but it will glow without light stimulation and in all situations. Retail: $420.

14. Tissot PRX Quartz (ref. T137.410.11.091.01)

Since Tissot’s launch of the PRX (“Precise and Robust”) in 2021, it has quickly become the brand’s hottest selling line. The PRX is a refresh of the 1978 Tissot Seastar designed by legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta. 

Tissot’s aim was to use his integrated case/bracelet design to evoke the spirit of the hip 1970s, and some would say nod and wink toward the Vacheron 222. This reference has a light green dial, a stainless steel case diameter of 40mm, and a quartz movement, but Tissot has enlarged the PRX family to include a wide variety of dial colors, precious metals, and a 35mm option. 

A standout feature of the PRX is its high-quality stainless steel bracelet which has vertical brushing with pops of polish, a butterfly release, double-push clasp, and wears very comfortably on the wrist with little to no pinching. Retail: $395.

15. Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase

The Swatch Group’s MoonSwatch collection is a lineup of colorful quartz watches launched in 2022 and fashioned after the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, the “First Watch Worn on the Moon”. 

Mission to Earthphase, the 29^th piece in the series, has once again sent collectors into high orbit. It has a light gray “Bioceramic” case diameter of 42mm, 13.75mm thickness, and lug-to-lug distance of 47.3mm, along with a Velcro fabric strap that comes with all MoonSwatches. The dial is textured gray, but instead of subdials at 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the Earthphase has two apertures. 

At 10, a rotating disc shows Earthphase, the view of the earth from the lunar surface, while at 2 another shows the moonphase, the view of the moon from earth, both of which follow a 29.5-day cycle, but in reverse order. The Earth’s oceans glow under UV light, and the battery cover on the caseback has an image of Neil Armstrong’s footprint. Retail: $325.

Conclusion

While it is possible (make that “probable”) that a serious collector will spend thousands of dollars on a timepiece, part of the joy of the avocation is that there is just as much satisfaction in picking up a value-packed watch at a fraction of the cost, such as the sub-$500 price point. The old saying, “You get what you pay for”, is a good rule of thumb, but sometimes “less is more” holds true as well, resulting in a satisfying tick on the wrist and a smile on one’s face. 

Grand Seiko is the definition of refined horological beauty and elegance. Known for their spectacular Zaratsu polishing and dials that evoke the natural wonders of the Japanese landscape, this watchmaker far too often goes relatively overlooked compared to others around its price point. 

Their latest release, the SBGJ265, is a spectacular new watch that for me checks all the boxes of the expected Grand Seiko design language while presenting a novel complication and appearance. Bearing both date and GMT complications thanks to the mechanical Caliber 9S86 that beats away inside, it allows its wearer to elegantly track two time zones at once, accentuating this useful information with a beautiful form that never disappoints.

History

The SBGJ265 is a watch deeply rooted in history, as it is part of Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection. Its case design is inspired by that of the 44GS, which in many ways is the first true Grand Seiko. Even today, I find it still has a compelling and modern silhouette. Others had borne the brand name before it, but it was with the 44GS that Grand Seiko truly solidified their design language and key principles: first, that flat surfaces and two-dimensional curves only will be used on the case; secondly, all flat surfaces will be as wide as possible on the case, dial, and hands for maximum legibility and polish; and finally, every surface should be mirror-polished and distortion-free. When handling a new watch by Grand Seiko, these are some of the key tenets that any discerning buyer should look for and appreciate.

When it came out in 1967, the 44GS was revolutionary. It was the most accurate mechanical movement at its beat rate—5 Hz, or 18,000 bph, a standard rate for mechanical watches—and was the first to bear the characteristic Grand Seiko Zaratsu polish. Note that the standard rate of this watch is actually the most remarkable part of its accuracy, as typically high-beat mechanisms are much more accurate. I find it particularly compelling that Grand Seiko accomplished stunning accuracy with a relatively simple lower-beat movement. As I briefly touched on in the design language, this involves using very sharply faceted flat surfaces polished to a clear and bright mirrored shine in the case, hands, and indexes. Applying Zaratsu polish is an extremely difficult task that takes watchmakers months to learn: it involves holding the case to a spinning sandpaper disk and feeling, rather than seeing, when it is finished. The exact right amount of pressure at a precise angle must be applied and the watch is removed from the polishing disk when the watchmaker feels that it is done. Incredibly, the temperature of the piece due to friction, the pressure applied, the angle of application, the balance of the polish must all be perfectly determined through the watchmaker’s sensitive fingertips. The result of all this work is nothing short of spectacular: balanced flat surfaces that glow like fireworks in bright lights.

Case

The SBGJ265’s 40 mm by 14 mm case is molded directly after that of the 44GS, bearing nearly the same shape, facets, and polish. I love this alignment to such an important heritage piece—it provides a sense of grounding in the brand’s collection and creates a deeper meaning for the piece. The broad flat surfaces angle to a precise and razor-sharp angle together in a way that plays beautifully with shifting light. Thanks to the sharp angles, shadows are often created on one mirrored surface while the other one brightly gleams, establishing a beautiful visual contrast.

The mirrored polish is positively radiant thanks to Grand Seiko’s proprietary Ever-Brilliant Steel, a new alloy of steel. It’s anti-corrosive and is 1.7 times more resistant to pitting than steel used in other high-end watches. Moreover, it has a particular whitish gleam that appears much more like white gold or other precious metals than that of normal steel. Essentially, this means that the spectacular Zaratsu polishing of the watch will last longer and shine more brilliantly, all while providing a lustrous material for the case.

Apart from the case structure itself, the watch also sports a double-domed crystal. This clearly adds a significant excess of thickness to the watch, potentially making it more difficult to pair with a shirt cuff or to pass off as a more casual-wear watch. That said, I do think the dome of the crystal adds an undeniable vintage charm, and to a watch whose design inspiration is clearly solely vintage-based, the choice does add significant flair. As I look at the watch, I also think the double-domed crystal really contributes to the silhouette, as it enables for a smoother flow between the case band and the top of the watch compared to a typical flat crystal. For many, it’s a choice that could go either way: some will be fans of the silhouette and vintage flair, and others will not be fond of the added thickness. I fall in the former camp.

Finally, take note of the crown, which following Grand Seiko’s design principles is slightly recessed. This adds comfort and ease of wear while also remaining accessible for winding should the user wish to manually wind it rather than utilizing the automatic function.

Dial

Any discussion of a new Grand Seiko watch would be greatly remiss to neglect a thorough discussion of the spectacular dial that adorns it. The SBGJ265 displays a shimmering black dial with a sunburst—or soleil, as the Swiss call it—finish that captures light at any angle. Grand Seiko, not being content to merely accept a conventional dial finishing as the majority of the industry does it, has greatly stepped up their game with this new peculiar method of finishing it. Standard sunburst finishing uses straight lines that extend the entire radius of the dial, providing a very uniform surface. GS, however, created a very uneven surface that appears to have been created with a large number of shallow microengravings. This creates an effect that, on a macro scale, captures all the gleam and shine of a sunburst, while when closely examined presents an irregular pattern that feels very close to the scene it’s meant to capture: the grooves of Mount Iwate, which can be seen from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi where the watch is made. While with some Grand Seiko dials I often struggle to see the comparison between the inspiration and the dial execution, I do find that in this case the dial greatly captures mountainous crags and crevices.

Floating above the richly textured dial are the beautifully faceted hour and minute hands which scintillate with light as the watch turns and moves. The baton indexes likewise are highly faceted, which according to Grand Seiko greatly helps their legibility in low-light situations, where they’re able to capture even the faintest glimmer of light and reveal themselves in the darkness. The 12 o’clock position bears a doubled set of indexes, which is another of GS’s established design principles. They’re truly remarkable and serve to add yet another dimension to the dial’s shine and glimmer.

The GMT hand, rendered in a warm yellow, creates a delightful profile of visual contrast, as it is not faceted like the other hands but rather flat and rather mattely finished. It pairs well with the text “GMT” on the dial that is in the same color, so both of which provide accenting touches of contrast that draw the eye. I personally love this extra note of contrast with the yellow-gold color that pops from the rest of the dial but without being too intrusive or clashing. As a final note, the 24-hour GMT scale itself can be found discreetly surrounding the dial on the chapter ring, quietly placed nearly out of sight so that it can be used whenever needed with a glance of the eyes.

One of the key principles of Grand Seiko’s design is to never use a complete black or white, for Japanese design loves to explore the variations of light and shadow. This dial is no different: even though it is black in dull lighting conditions, it truly comes alive with new colors and glimmers as light plays over it. Depending on the light, it can appear as a silver or even a dark brown color where the light strikes it. Important to note is that these colors are mainly revealed where the light plays on the sunburst, leaving the rest of the dial to contrast with it in its normal rich black.

Movement

Within the SBGJ265 beats a movement that is vintage-inspired but powerfully avant-garde in execution. The spectacular in-house Caliber 9S86 was introduced in 2014 as an evolution of the 9S85, to which it added a GMT function. It’s also automatic but can be manually-wound and sports a power reserve of a remarkable 55 hours.

The Caliber 9S86 is a marvel of accuracy, beating at 10 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour at a precision of +5/-3 seconds per day. The higher number of beats provides for greater precision, as the escapement is made to function far more quickly and deviations are easily averaged out. Normally, the accuracy of high-beat movements comes with a trade-off: the greater torque that’s needed to power such a movement is usually highly wearing on the watch’s gears. That said, each gear in the 9S86 is carefully hand-polished by GS craftsmen to reduce friction to the lowest possible point, thereby nearly eliminating the wear that would be caused by extra torque as the gears mesh seamlessly and with no scrape or grind. Having lightly studied the famous watchmaker George Daniels’ notes on the importance of having a high polish to reduce friction, I think this is a great solution that will really serve to reduce the problems of a high-beat mechanism while providing all the advantages.

Thanks to a specialized technology called Micro-Electronic-Mechanical Systems, or MEMS for short, the components of the caliber can be machined down to tolerances of a thousandth of a millimeter. Furthermore, several parts can be made lighter, such as the escape wheel, which is 5% lighter, and the pallet fork, which is 25% lighter. Reducing their weight also reduces their inertia, allowing them to accelerate and decelerate more rapidly with less drain on the power supply. Temperature compensation is also present through the inclusion of an extra arm in the balance wheel, which ensures that the caliber will not vary much with temperature changes.

All mechanical Grand Seiko movements are produced at the new Studio Shizukuishi, which is a beautiful architectural structure that follows Grand Seiko’s principle of appreciating nature by seamlessly integrating itself into its environment. It is here that presumably the GS dial-makers can look up and admire as their inspiration the beautiful snowy head of Mt. Iwate as they craft the dial meant to represent its rich craggy grooves. Here as well every part of the construction process of the movement occurs—from production to assembly to adjustment and finishing, all is done entirely in-house.

Straps

The SBGJ265 comes naturally on a bracelet but can be easily swapped out for a 19mm strap as the wearer wishes thanks to its drilled lugs. However, I find the bracelet exquisitely made and very beautiful in polish, and it would be wise to keep it on. Most of the bracelet bears a brushed finish, but it’s not pronounced or harsh on the eyes as these often can be. It gleams with a polish all its own. The brushed finish on the exterior links as well as the heart of the interior link contrasts nicely with two stripes of mirror polish executed on the interior link. The links themselves are gently rounded to give the impression of flowing down to the bottom of the wrist, where a simple push-button clasp provides a gently tactile experience in removing or putting on the watch.

Important to note as well is that the bracelet does not have micro-adjustments, meaning it may be more difficult for some wearers to find a perfect fit for their wrist. That said, it does have both half-links and full-links that are removable for a very close approximation that will ensure that most wearers find a comfortable and pleasant snugness.

On-Wrist Experience

The watch wears delightfully well on the wrist, firmly placed in the category of a go-anywhere, do-anything watch. Its 40mm diameter means it can be comfortably worn by a wide variety of wrist sizes. Thanks to its refined black dial,I’ve found the watch to be quite classy, and can be worn for dressy occasions. However, because of its double-domed sapphire crystal, it would be wise to mainly retain it for sportier ones. When paired with a suit, consider swapping out the strap for black leather, for an additional elegant touch. Whatever event you’re attending, do try not to keep such an exquisite dial hidden away under a dress cuff for the whole evening!

The ergonomic bracelet design as well as the slightly recessed crown provide for a comfortable wearing experience, and the restrained nature of the watch’s design means it can be paired with almost any outfit. Try, for example, anything from a polo and jeans to a regular office wearer alongside a dress shirt and chinos. The watch in itself is the sort of elegant accessory that dresses up any outfit and gives a touch of Zaratsu sparkle to even an otherwise drab ensemble. At 14 mm thick, it’s not too large to draw excessive attention or to rattle around on the wrist.

On top of the watch’s comfortable and refined wrist presence, the movement’s precision is a powerful advantage—especially considering that, after all, a wristwatch’s true purpose is to supply the time. Thanks to the automatic winding, it rarely needs to be reset if worn regularly enough, and the natural precision of the 9S86 means the watch can be continually depended on to time precision events or just to ensure that you arrive at your next meeting on time—whatever time zone you happen to be in for the moment.

From direct sunlight to the fluorescent lights of the board room, the watch’s dial captures it all and reflects it in a surprisingly wide variety of hues and brightness. Depending on the angle, the color of the light, and more, the beauty of this dial will continue to reveal itself in new and varied ways.

Price & Availability

The SBGJ265 is not a limited edition, so Grand Seiko is clearly planning on keeping it around as a strong listing in their collection that will hopefully last for years to come. It’s likely that it will only ever be replaced if they release a similar model, perhaps another GMT or one with a similar dial, and in this case they might retire it. For now, however, it remains fully available for the foreseeable future.

At a retail price of $7,500, it certainly will make a dent in your wallet, but it’s also quite an excellent price considering its competition in the sub-$10,000 range. At its price point, there is almost no competition quite like it—high-beat GMTs with such spectacular dials are incredibly hard to come by. Grand Seiko is a master of offering truly spectacular value at a given price and the SBGJ265 is no exception.

This watch can be purchased from Grand Seiko boutiques online or in stores, or from Exquisite Timepieces where we have listings for both new at retail and pre-owned for the reduced price of $5,500.

Conclusion

Rarely are vintage-inspired modern releases executed with such elegance and such a deft touch in recalling past editions. The SBGJ265’s vintage design is directly called back from a remarkably historical model, the 44GS, and married with an all-new dial and function to present an end product simultaneously old and new, classic and cutting-edge. For those who are longtime fans of Grand Seiko or for those who are searching for perfectly-executed elegance, the SBGJ265 is a watch not to be overlooked. It’s truly one of the most wonderful pieces that I’ve had the opportunity to consider, in terms of value, heritage, elegance, and technical achievements.