Category: Seiko

Seiko is widely known for its dive watches and for being the first to use a quartz movement, revolutionizing the industry. Of course, Seiko aficionados will also know them for their high-end luxury watch lines like Grand Seiko and King Seiko. 

However, the general public, at least in the West, likely views them as a budget brand. They’re often regarded as the Toyota of the watch world. Solid timepieces that will keep on ticking for years to come, but nothing extraordinary. However, that’s not their whole story. 

It’s true Seiko does have budget-conscious collections, which get the job done while cutting a few corners. Conversely, besides their high-end lines, they also have a few middle-grade dress watches that are exceptionally well-made and beautiful. 

They’re also a watch company that makes everything that goes into their products, from their own in-house movements to the lubricant that keeps the parts moving; something you might expect from Rolex or Patek Philippe, but Seiko? And yet that’s exactly what they deliver. 

Some of the handmade, artisan work on their sub-$2,000 dials could rival a timepiece that’s six or ten times the price. In this article, we’ve identified some of the best Seiko dress watches for your consideration, and only one of them breaks the $3,000 mark.

So, if you’re looking for a refined, elegant wristwatch that will elevate your style at work and for those special occasions without assaulting your pocketbook, let’s dive in or, in this case, button up. 

About Seiko Dress Watches

Seiko, the renowned Japanese watchmaker, offers an array of dress watch collections, each with its unique features and designs. Here’s a short guide to some of Seiko’s notable dress watch collections and their standout models:

1. Seiko Presage: The Presage collection is known for its exquisite craftsmanship and traditional Japanese aesthetics. One standout model is the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43J1, featuring a captivating blue sunburst dial with a cocktail-inspired pattern, stainless steel case, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by a reliable automatic movement and boasts a power reserve of up to 41 hours.

2. Seiko Premier: The Premier collection embodies modern elegance with its sophisticated designs and advanced functionalities. The Seiko Premier Kinetic Perpetual SNP139P1 is a standout model, featuring a sleek black dial with gold-tone accents, a stainless steel case, and a perpetual calendar that automatically adjusts for leap years until February 2100. The watch also boasts Seiko’s Kinetic technology, which converts kinetic energy into electrical energy to power the watch, making it eco-friendly and hassle-free.

3. King Seiko: Originally introduced in the 1960s, it has been recently re-introduced, keeping some of its vintage ‘60s vibes but with elevated materials, the latest tech, and the features expected of a modern watch. The King line sits somewhere between your standard Seiko and the brand’s flagship, Grand Seiko, which offers high-end luxury watches that compete with the likes of Rolex and Omega.  

History of Seiko Dress Watches

Seiko is one of the world’s most recognized watch brands, and they’ve been shaking up the watch industry for over 142 years, most notably when they induced the first quartz-powered wristwatch on Christmas Day in 1969 and sent shockwaves through the industry. 

While they’re often known for their budget tool watches, the brand has been making luxury timepieces since the 1920s, and even earlier, when they first introduced the now lionized Laurel wristwatch in 1913. A model that was recently reintroduced under the Presage line. Starting in the 1960s, the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines were also introduced, designed to rival even the most upmarket brands out of Switzerland. 

In particular, some of their dial work is second to none. Both their Urushi dials, with their lacquered, traditional Japanese art designs and their glass-like enamel dials, are true masterpieces on the wrist. You’ll catch yourself and other admirers staring at the details, noticing the way the light plays off each intricate layer.

The Best Seiko Dress Watches 

SEIKO PRESAGE LAUREL RE-EDITION SPB359

The Laurel wristwatch, upon which this re-edition SPB359 is based, is an iconic timepiece that has played a significant role in the history of the Japanese watch industry. Introduced by Seiko in 1913, the Laurel is widely regarded as the first wristwatch produced in Japan.

The man behind the Laurel was Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko. Hattori was a skilled watchmaker who established his own watch repair shop in Tokyo in 1881. He quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces and went on to establish the Seikosha factory to produce watches on a larger scale.

This re-edition of the Laurel marks its 110th anniversary and is a limited-edition timepiece with only 2,500 in circulation. 

There’s an elegance to the round stainless steel case, measuring 37.5mm. There’s a large onion crown with filigree work. The dial is a white enamel with blue hands and black numerals. There’s a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and a subdial date scale at the six o’clock position. 

The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 6R27 automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m and is paired with a thick brown leather strap with a tang buckle. 

Price: $1,800

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB293

The SPB293 from the Presage Prestige collection features these Arita porcelain dials that are absolutely beguiling. Japanese Arita porcelain is a type of porcelain that originates from the town of Arita in the Saga prefecture of Japan. It is known for its delicate beauty and intricate designs, which have been highly prized for centuries.

These dials are meticulously designed by expert artisans. With this timepiece, they’ve created a 3D effect with the pure white enamel dial. The blue hands are a snappy contrast to the white, and the seconds hand is anchored by a delicately crafted crescent moon.

The time is displayed in blue, raised Roman numerals. The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits at 12.4mm thick on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 6R31 automatic with a 70-hour power reserve. 

It’s water resistant to 100m and is paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a push button release. 

Price: $1,700 

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB045

The SPB045 is similar to the SPB293 above, however, with some notable distinctions. This is another timepiece in Seiko’s Presage Prestige collection with a beautiful enamel dial. This watch is entirely made in Japan; it’s not one of these budget deals with mixed Chinese parts.

This has a polished stainless steel case measuring 40.5mm, a white dial with blue hands, and Roman numerals. The process of crafting an enamel dial is rather extensive, and there’s a lot that can go wrong along the way, but when it’s done right, you get a brilliant-looking dial that, in this case, looks like it belongs on a far more expensive watch. 

One of the areas on an enamel dial that can often show cracking and flaws is around the date window, which is why Seiko uses a pointer date subdial on this, as it did with the watch reviewed above. 

The watch is powered by a Caliber 6R27 with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s also water resistant to 100m, which is quite respectable for a dress watch. One could put a non-leather strap on this and swim without any concern.

The timepiece comes with a refined, supple, black alligator leather strap with high gloss. This strap is worth noting, as it’s refreshingly unexpected at this price point. So is the full trigger actuated steel deployant clasp, when one might expect a simple calf leather and a tang buckle in a sub $2,000 watch. 

Price: $1,100 

SEIKO PRESAGE “COCKTAIL TIME” SRPB41

The Seiko Presage “Cocktail Time” SRPB41 is a beautifully designed dress watch that combines classic elegance with modern functionality. The watch is inspired by the world-renowned mixologist Hisashi Kishi, who is known for creating cocktails that embody the essence of Japan.

The SRPB41 is part of Seiko’s Presage line, which is known for its high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. The watch features a stunning sunburst blue dial reminiscent of a well-crafted cocktail. The dial is adorned with polished silver-tone hour markers and hands, which add a touch of sophistication to the watch.

The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position, and the Seiko logo is prominently displayed just above it. The SRPB41 is powered by Seiko’s 4R35 automatic movement, known for its accuracy and reliability. The watch has a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and is water resistant up to 50 meters.

The case of the watch is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40.5mm, which is a great size for a dress watch. The case is finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, which adds to the overall elegance of the watch. The timepiece comes with a stainless steel bracelet that is also finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces.

Price: $450 

SEIKO PROSPEX 1959 ALPINIST RE-INTERPRETATION SBDC147

The Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-Interpretation SBDC147 is an exceptional timepiece that pays homage to the original Seiko Alpinist from 1959. It is a stunning combination of vintage design and modern technology.

The stainless steel case measures 38mm and sits at 12.9mm on the wrist. This collection comes in gray, cream, or green dials. There’s an option for a brown leather strap or fitted steel bracelet. 

The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R35 automatic with hacking, hand-winding, and a 70-hour power reserve. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. It’s also water resistant to 200m. 

The Alpinist is a solid, rugged sports watch that’s built to withstand the elements of the outdoors. Perfect for backing through the mountains or camping with your kids in the backyard. 

Price: $590

SEIKO KING SEIKO SPB279

The Seiko King is an iconic watch model that was first introduced in the early 1960s. The original King model sat somewhere between your standard budget Seiko and the high-end Grand Seiko. The case of the SPB279 is stainless steel and measures 37mm, and sits at 12.1mm thick on the wrist.

This watch really sings on a smaller wrist and gives one that retro feel. The King is a simple three-hand watch with a silver dial, hands, and raised indices. At the 12 o’clock position, there’s a double index featuring a distinctive diamond pattern. 

The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R31 with hacking seconds and a 70-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 100m. The upmarket seven-link bracelet, with its butterfly deployment clasp, feels like an upgrade from the stand steel bracelet Seiko is known for and further distinguishes the King from the standard Seiko.

Price: $1,700 

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPJ13

This timepiece is another in the collection of watches inspired by Modern Japanese cocktail lounges. The stainless steel case measures 39.5mm and has a relatively thin profile. The sunburst blue dial with its circular pattern is, of course, the focus point of the watch.

The sharp silver hands and indices add a touch of complexity. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock for functionality. The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 4R35 automatic with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 50m.

There’s an open case back, revealing the inner workings of the watch. The stainless steel bracelet features a deployment clasp with a push button release and looks commensurate with the price point. 

Price: $450

SEIKO PRESAGE SRPF41

Another cocktail timepiece, this one features a distinctive graded green dial with a rough sandpaper finish. There’s a mix of numbers and indices in silver, matching the silver hands. A date window is displayed at 3 o’clock, and the watch features hacking seconds. 

The stainless steel case measures 38.5mm and sits at 11.8mm on the wrist. The watch is paired with a green, calfskin leather strap that includes a three-fold clasp with push button release. 

It’s powered by the 4R35 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m. This watch seems appropriately paired with casual business attire, as well as jeans or khakis for a night on the town. 

Price: $500

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SSA449

This is a unique-looking timepiece with a lot going on, and that’s not usually a good thing, but it all kind of works with this configuration. There’s also a vintage ‘60s vibe to this watch that I dig.

This watch straddles the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, at least in terms of its looks, though I wouldn’t expect this watch to perform in active conditions on land or sea. That’s not a negative since this is in the dress category, just don’t be deceived by the looks.

The stainless steel case measures 40.8mm, which is a nice size. It sits on the wrist at 14.3mm. The dial is a matte black, with silver hands and indices. There’s an off-white lume to the hands and an off-white, almost candlelight subdial, which functions as a pointer date.

There’s also a large power reserve indicator that stretches from 11 o’clock all the way to the 4 o’clock position. The timepiece is powered by the 4R57 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m. It features hacking seconds and a solid, stainless steel bracelet. 

I normally favor simple watch designs, but while there’s a lot going on with the dial, it’s in balance and just looks sharp.

Price: $650

SEIKO DOLCE GOLD SACM150

The Seiko Dolce Gold SACM150 is an exquisite timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. This watch is part of Seiko’s prestigious Dolce collection. The SACM150 features a stainless steel case measuring 36mm and is coated with a lustrous gold-tone finish, which adds a trace of opulence to its appearance.

It’s razor-thin at 5.3mm on the wrist. The dial of the SACM150 is adorned with a mesmerizing pattern that resembles the texture of fine silk fabric, creating a luxurious and visually-appealing aesthetic. The gold-tone hour markers and hands are meticulously crafted on this simple three-hand watch.

This Dolce timepiece is powered by Seiko’s renowned quartz movement, and it is water-resistant to 30m. All this is paired with a black caiman (alligator-like) leather with a tang buckle. The timepiece appears far more luxurious than the price point would indicate. 

Price: $350

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPD99

This is another handsome timepiece from the Presage collection. The black dial with silver hands and what looks like diamond-filled indices make for an eye-catching display. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 38.3mm and sits at 11.2mm on the wrist, making this a good unisex model. 

The watch is powered by the 4R35 automatic movement, with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s splash-resistant but not a watch meant for swimming, which is perfectly acceptable in the dress watch category, though it does limit the versatility of the watch. It’s paired with an upmarket stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release. 

Price: $500

SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGE SPB165

Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edge series is a collection of timepieces that exude a modern and sophisticated style. Inspired by the sharp edges and clean lines of contemporary architecture, these watches are characterized by their sleek and angular designs, making them stand out in Seiko’s esteemed Presage lineup.

This Sharp Edge collection features four dial color options; white, blue, green, and brown. This model is in white with a striking, raised diamond textured pattern. The silver sword-like hour and minute hands are nicely complimented by the pop of blue color on the seconds hand.

There’s also a silver framed date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 39.3mm and sits at 11.1mm on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R35 automatic movement, with a 70-hour power reserve and a solid 100m of water resistance.

The stainless steel bracelet is nicely done, especially the three-fold clasp and push-button. This is a clear step up from a typical stamped Seiko clasp. This watch could easily be mistaken for a much more expensive Grand Seiko. The dial is that good. 

Price: $1,000 

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX035

The Presage SARX035 features a sleek stainless steel case with polished and brushed finishes, measuring 40.5mm in diameter and 11.8mm in thickness, providing a refined and substantial presence on the wrist.

The SARX035 boasts a black dial that exudes a sense of depth and sophistication. The dial also showcases applied silver-tone hour markers and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

At the heart of the SARX035 beats Seiko’s high-quality 6R15 automatic movement, with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and a hacking function for precise time-setting.

Completing the SARX035’s sophisticated aesthetic is a brushed stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a push-button release for easy and secure wearing. This is another example of a Presage timepiece that, at first glance, could be mistaken for a Grand Seiko. 

Price: $600

SEIKO PRESAGE SPB115

This is an example of a Seiko with a beautiful enamel dial. This automatic wristwatch features a stainless steel case measuring 39.9mm in diameter and 12.4mm in thickness.

The SPB115 boasts a captivating brown dial with a sunburst pattern that captures the light beautifully, creating an enthralling interplay of colors and textures. The dial showcases white hour markers and hands. The dial also features a white framed date display at the 3 o’clock position.

At the heart of the SPB115 beats Seiko’s high-quality 6R35 automatic movement, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a hacking function. The watch is water resistant, with a water resistance rating of 100 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

Completing the SPB115’s sophisticated aesthetic is a brown horse skin leather strap with a three-fold clasp with a push-button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit. 

Price: $1,100

SEIKO PRESAGE “URUSHI” SARD011

The Urushi is a piece of art on your wrist. Seiko is often known for its dive watches, but it’s a dress timepiece like this that I think sets Seiko apart from the pack in terms of quality and value. I can’t think of another major watch brand that delivers this kind of beauty and craftsmanship at these price points. 

The lacquered, Urushi dial is, of course, the star of the show. The Urushi lacquer technique is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process that involves multiple layers of hand-applied lacquer and meticulous polishing.

The painted white Roman numerals and the gold-toned hands provide a touch of class. Supposedly, there’s one artisan in Japan who makes these dials by hand, and looking at the finished product, I truly believe that. 

The black dial is so deep and layered with a wet finish that it’s hard not to stare at this artwork and forget to check the time. Yet there’s actually a lot of information on the dial, from a pointer date to a pointer day of the week to a power reserve indicator. These features give the watch an antique quality, down to the printed 31 Jewels on the dial, a practice not found on many modern timepieces. 

The polished stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits a touch high for a dress watch, in my opinion, at 13.2mm on the wrist. But that’s the only drawback I can see. The timepiece is powered by the 6R24 automatic movement with a power reserve of 45 hours and is water resistant to 100m.

You might expect Seiko to cut corners on the strap, but they don’t disappoint. The black, genuine alligator strap is fitted with a deployment clasp. All around, even in the details, this is a superb watch.

Price: $1,060

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX055

Some call it the Baby Snowflake for its close resemblance to its big brother, the Grand Seiko Snowflake. Thankfully, the baby can be yours for a fraction of the price. 

The titanium case is handsomely brushed and polished and measures 41mm, and sits at 11.5mm on the wrist. The watch looks refined but could also be worn with jeans. 

Some have described the sapphire crystal of the timepiece as practically invisible. The white, snowflake pattern dial features raised silver indices and sword hands. The seconds hand contrasts with a nice touch of blue. There’s a silver-lined date window at 3 o’clock.

The watch is powered by the 6R15 automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 100m. The bracelet is well executed with brushed and polished links and a deployment clasp. 

Price: $900 

SEIKO KING SEIKO SJE087

This is a limited-edition King Seiko with 1,700 of this model in circulation. The watch features a retro ’60s vibe. It boasts a pale champagne dial with gold hands and indices. The case is thin, a graceful, noteworthy feature on a dress watch.

At 12 o’clock, there’s a double textured index. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case with super-hard coating measures 38.1mm and sits at 11.4mm on the wrist. It’s powered by the caliber 6L35 with a 45-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 50m. 

The timepiece is paired with a brown crocodile strap with a pin buckle. There’s even a retro styling of the Seiko logo on the buckle. 

Price: $3,300

SEIKO PRESAGE OCEAN TRAVELER GMT SARF013

The Seiko Presage Ocean Traveler GMT captures the spirit of oceanic adventurers. The SARF013 features a sleek titanium case with a polished finish, measuring 40mm in diameter and 24.6mm in thickness. The dial of the watch is a deep, textured blue color reminiscent of the vast and mysterious oceans.

The dial is adorned with white, silver-lined hands and markers, along with a power reserve scale, a pointer date at 6 o’clock, and a GMT hand, adding a functional touch to the timepiece. Powering the SARF013 is Seiko’s Caliber 6R64 automatic movement, which can be admired through the exhibition case back.

The watch also enjoys a water resistance of 100 meters, making it suitable for water-based activities. It’s paired with either a bracelet or a blue alligator leather strap with a deployment clasp and push button release. 

Price: $1,280

SEIKO PREMIER KINETIC SNP150

The Premier Kinetic is a fancy-looking dress timepiece with rose gold-toned stainless steel. The case measures 42.9mm and sits at 12mm on the wrist. The face of the watch features a white dial with alternating black Roman numerals and rose gold-toned indices. The hands are black, and there’s a date window under the XII, lined in a thick rose gold tone. 

There are a couple of subdials, including a pointer calendar. Under the hood is the 7D56 automatic. All this is paired with a handsome black calfskin leather band with a three-fold clasp and push-button release. This is a good-looking timepiece, which looks and feels like it would fetch a superior price than it does. 

Price:$700

SEIKO PRESAGE SARW021

This is another timeless selection from the Presage collection. The brushed stainless steel case measures 40.8mm and is 12.7mm thick. The classic white dial has sharp blue hands and raised silver indices and includes three-pointer subdials displaying the day, date, and power reserve level. The watch is powered by Seiko’s 6R21 automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 100m.

All of this is matched with a stainless steel bracelet with a tri-fold push-back clasp and features hacking seconds and a screw-down crown. This timepiece straddles the line between dressy and sporty quite well. I can imagine this worn with a suit or pair of jeans. 

Price: $725

Parting Thoughts

Seiko truly has a lot to offer as a watch manufacturer. The sheer number and variety of models can be bewildering. Knowing the difference between Grand, King, Presage, and all the re-introductions can leave the average customer trying to figure out where to begin. 

But hopefully, this article has provided clarity and direction on the dress watch front. For expert help with the purchase of your next Seiko or any fine timepiece, the watch experts at Exquisite Timepieces are only a click away.

Grand Seiko is a high-end watch brand famous for its accuracy, style, and fine craftsmanship. This titan of a brand was originally created to be a higher-end companion piece to the Seiko brand. Over the years, it has established a reputation as one of the most distinguished watch companies in the world. 

Everything from the silky smooth steel bracelets and ethereal dials just radiates luxury. It uses only the best components and cutting-edge technology, and each Grand Seiko watch is created in-house by expert craftsmen in Japan. Grand Seiko offers a variety of models to fit every taste, whether you’re searching for a dress watch or a sports watch. Each of these watches lasts an entire lifetime and glows just as brilliantly as the day you bought it. 

About Grand Seiko Dive Watches

Eclectic collectors looking to expand their collection beyond well-established Swiss brands should look no further than Grand Seiko. They are among the most coveted timepieces for divers on the market today. These timepieces combine the renowned brand’s high quality and precision with the durability and functionality needed to explore underwater. 

Additionally, Grand Seiko’s legendary Spring Drive mechanism guarantees unmatched accuracy even under the most difficult circumstances. Grand Seiko dive watches are a great option for individuals wanting the greatest quality, durability, and performance levels. 

History of Grand Seiko Dive Watches

Grand Seiko made its debut in 1960, primarily as an answer to the luxury Swiss watch market. At the time, Japanese watches were mostly known for their affordability and functionality. However, there was a distinct lack of anything that could be considered luxury Japanese watches. 

Grand Seiko was released with the goal of becoming the most accurate watch brand out there. Until 2017, Grand Seiko was considered another part of Seiko. However, Grand Seiko has since split off from its sister company and become its very own brand, offering stunning timepieces that will surely be the talk of the room. 

Dive watches have always been a part of the Seiko DNA, and Grand Seiko followed that with the release of its very first dive watch in 2008, the SBGA029. Before becoming its own brand, every Grand Seiko release had two labels on it.

A regular Seiko label and a Grand Seiko label on the dial. In addition to dive watches, Grand Seiko also has numerous other collections in its lineup. These collections include Masterpiece, Evolution 9, Heritage, Sport, and Elegance. 

The Best Grand Seiko Dive Watches

Grand Seiko SBGA461

Starting off this list is the quintessential Grand Seiko. Stainless steel case construction, deep black dial, Spring Drive movement, and impeccable finishing. As a part of Grand Seiko’s Sport collection, the ruggedly handsome design and modern enhancements make this dive watch both functional and effortlessly cool. 

The power reserve indicator is a simple but extremely useful complication that does not detract at all from the functionality of the watch. The large 72-hour power reserve is more than enough for this serious dive watch. The legibility is enhanced by the Lumibrite indexes generously large hour and minute hands. Both hands are distinctly shaped and ensure the time is always clear to the wearer. 

Grand Seiko SBGH257

Who doesn’t love a limited edition collection? They increase exclusivity and really make each piece special. This limited offering from Grand Seiko is a gorgeous, abyssal blue waffle dial dive watch that has a silky smooth bezel action, gargantuan 600m water resistance, and a lightweight titanium case and bracelet. 

The waffle pattern on the dial really brings out visual interest and draws attention to the dial. One of my favorite features is the date window at the unusual 4 o’clock position, which is angled to mimic the other indexes on the dial. The outstanding precision is due to the Caliber 9S85 hi-beat movement, a premium offering from Grand Seiko. 

Grand Seiko SBGA463

The most stunning feature of this watch is the High-Intensity titanium case and bracelet. Grand Seiko is a pioneer in luxury, high-quality materials and uses various materials to increase the durability of its watches. One such material is High-Intensity titanium, an alloy applied to many of Grand Seiko’s titanium timepieces. 

Notably, Grand Seiko’s titanium shines brighter than any kind of stainless steel and is twice as strong. The lightweight, all-metal 44mm case is ultra comfortable and feels like a pillow on the wrist. This model is powered by the smooth Spring Drive movement and includes a power reserve indicator for easy viewing. 

Grand Seiko SBGX115

A quartz movement from Grand Seiko is hardly the kind you would find in common everyday watches. Grand Seiko’s quartz movements are designed to be extra secure and long-lasting. Unlike many other quartz watches, a Grand Seiko 9F quartz movement can be regulated due to its high-quality construction and protective seal. This ensures accuracy over even longer periods of time. 

Through complicated mechanics, the movement is ultra-accurate, up to  +/- 10 seconds per year. The SGBX115 has a clean white dial and a large, chunky bezel. Residue and grime easily slide off the sloped edges of the case and the engineered grooves around the bezel. 

Grand Seiko SBGA391

The Grand Seiko lineup became a lot more colorful with this incredible limited edition model. The most notable feature of this watch is, of course, the patterned aqua-green dial. This is a welcome change from the numerous black and blue dials that are extremely popular in dive watches. The color and the repeated diamond shapes remind wearers of the gentle ocean tides. 

Besides the stunning dial, the Zaratsu polishing on this limited edition watch makes it shine in the light. One thing that must be mentioned is the size. This is by no means a small watch at 44.2mm in diameter and 14mm in height. This watch demands wrist presence, and the stainless steel construction will certainly remind you of that. 

Grand Seiko SBGH291

This Grand Seiko is simply an amazing sports watch. I love how the watch sits on the wrist without being too heavy. Like most other Grand Seikos, it is relatively large at 43mm in diameter. However, the gentle curve on the lugs and caseback makes wearing this watch a comfortable experience. 

The black ceramic bezel is hard like a diamond and will almost never scratch. Even if you have owned this watch for years, it will still look brand-new. I thoroughly enjoy the extra secure clasp, with the Grand Seiko logo deeply etched into it. The clasp is smooth, secure, and simple to operate. 

Grand Seiko SLGA00

Grand Seiko celebrates 60 years in the watchmaking industry with this triumphant timepiece. This watch signals a new generation in the already incredible Spring Drive movement. The new Caliber 9RA5 takes what already made Grand Seiko great and makes it thinner, more resistant to magnetism, and highly shock-resistant. The thinness was achieved due to repositioning and redesigning Grand Seiko’s Magic Lever, which is what winds the mainspring in the movement. 

And, of course, the finishing on the new movement is absolutely superb. The jewels glow in the light, and the delicate finishing on the back of the movement is like a fresh morning dew. The amazing 5-day power reserve is enough to last almost a whole week of seafaring adventure. The crown is lined up with the date window at the unusual 4 o’clock position. 

Grand Seiko SLGA015

The Evolution 9 Collection is the newest addition to Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. Released in 2020 to celebrate Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the Evolution 9 combines heritage designs with the innovations of modern watchmaking.

Most of the designs will take inspiration from a much earlier model, the 44GS from 1967. This model is made of the premium High-Intensity titanium that graces other Grand Seiko watches and has a notably grainy, sandy black dial. The numerous curves ripple like ocean waves on a cloudy day.

The bracelet has a five-link design with a new, secure clasp. Powering the watch is the new Caliber 9RA5 movement, which is more sleek and robust than earlier movements. Proudly displayed on the dial is “5 days,” which indicates the extra generous power reserve. 

Grand Seiko SBGA029 

This watch deserves respect as the very first Grand Seiko diver. Every watch on this list is descended from this milestone in the Grand Seiko collection. The SBGA029 is like a template for future Grand Seiko releases. This watch was released when Grand Seiko was still attached to Seiko, hence the double labels on the dial. 

Many Grand Seiko watches tend to run larger than most other dive watches. The 44mm case diameter is large, but thanks to the short, sloped lugs, wearing the watch comfortably isn’t a problem at all. This model was also the first to feature the Spring Drive movement on a dive watch, an innovation that would be seen in later models. 

Grand Seiko SBGA071

The SBGA071 is an Asia Limited Edition, which might make it more difficult to obtain for someone outside the continent. However, anyone who makes an effort to procure one of these limited watches will be rewarded with a Grand Seiko that is visually interesting.

It’s similar to the very first Grand Seiko dive watch, except for the brilliant pop of color in the gold lettering of the Seiko and Grand Seiko logos and the blue circular pip on the seconds hand. These two pops of color contrast nicely with the deep blue, almost black dial. It’s powered by the Caliber 9R65, so you know you’re getting an incredibly accurate timepiece. 

Grand Seiko SBGX339

Any splash of color on a Grand Seiko is worth mentioning. The SBGX339 is a colorful dive watch that has a lot of depth to it. The bright yellow chapter ring is sloped and lined with Arabic numerals. The slope gives the watch a very neat 3D effect, and it really feels like you’re looking deep inside the dial. Complementing the yellow chapter ring is a yellow seconds hand. 

The thick, bold bezel is satisfying to use and is tactile and responsive. The 43mm watch is finely brushed on the sides, as opposed to the mirror finish found in many other Grand Seiko models. The high accuracy 9F quartz movement will ensure that the time will be precise up to +/- 10 seconds per year.

Grand Seiko SBGC251

The Grand Seiko SBGC251 is an exciting new release in the Evolution 9 series of high-end mechanical watches. The Evolution 9 collection really does take Grand Seiko to new heights. All of the expertise in pure Japanese watchmaking is on display here in this complex and bold watch. The blue GMT hand is noticeable and one of the first things your eyes will be drawn to.

The bezel is thinner than other Grand Seiko models, adding to the slim elegance of this watch. In addition to the GMT, there is a chronograph and power reserve indicator. The Caliber 9R86 is another reason why this luxury timepiece commands such a large sticker price. The beautiful finishing and amazing accuracy is the heart and soul of this fine watch. 

Grand Seiko SBGC221

The SBGC221 is one of the most complex watches on this list. True to Grand Seiko’s mission of finding only the best materials for its pieces, this complicated watch uses a corrosion and scratch-resistant titanium and ceramic hybrid. This ultra-luxurious material makes everything about this watch highly durable and, most importantly, lightweight and comfortable. 

The dial is highly complicated, but the design never gets too busy. The abundance of complications, including the GMT, 72-hour power reserve indicator, and chronograph, is a wonder to behold. Indeed, the SBGC221 is one of the most premium offerings in the Grand Seiko lineup. Interested buyers will be paying a hefty sum for one of the best watches from Grand Seiko. 

Grand Seiko SBJ237

What better way to end this list of fantastic Grand Seiko watches than with a GMT? Everyone loves GMT watches for their intricacies, practicality, and overall cool factor. Every true GMT watch will have a separate GMT hand and functional dial that work together to tell the time in another time zone.

The silvery white, blue, and black blend together harmoniously in this striking GMT watch, almost like a beautiful sapphire gemstone. This GMT and dive watch hybrid is the perfect mix of toughness and luxury. The titanic 20 atm water resistance is more than enough for any challenge, and the Caliber 9S86 beats razor smoothly and accurately. 

Conclusion 

Grand Seiko shows us the very best that Japanese watchmaking has to offer. People who hold a Grand Seiko in their hands know that they are holding onto something special. The attention to detail is outstanding. Every aspect of the watch is premium, high-quality, and precise.

The dive watches in the Grand Seiko lineup are made with premium materials and revolutionary technology. This extra luxury, however, does not compromise the core features of every dive watch: robustness, durability, and functionality. With their accomplishments in mind, Grand Seiko is a heavy hitter in the watch industry. 

Quartz watches were watchmaking’s crowning achievement when they debuted in the late 1960s. Seiko unveiled their first quartz watch on December 29th, 1969, the Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ. At the time, it cost 450,000 Japanese Yen, which was as much as some cars at the time.

Today (March 2023), 450,000 JPY is equivalent to 3,300 USD. Even though early quartz watches were the pinnacle of accuracy, and brands charged accordingly, Seiko quickly figured out how to mass-produce quartz watches to make them affordable.

This sparked the quartz crisis, as quartz watches are more durable, accurate, and cheaper to produce and maintain than mechanical watches. From the perspective of practicality, quartz is much better than mechanical. But what if the battery never needed to be changed?

Seiko Solar Quartz: Background and Range of Models

To add to quartz watches existing practicality, Seiko unveiled their first solar-powered quartz watch in 1978, eliminating the pesky battery change every few years. Provided the user could keep the watch in some sort of light regularly, it would run accurately.

Modern solar-powered watches have power save modes that preserve battery life, should the owner stick the timepiece in a drawer for a short while. In their most basic configuration, solar-powered watches operate much like conventional watches. You set the time normally via the crown, and as long as the battery has power, it’ll keep time within the tolerances allowed by the movement.

On the other end of the spectrum, there are Seiko’s Astron GPS Solar watches, which host a wide range of complications, and sync to GPS signals, allowing to correct any inaccuracies with the movement, ensuring that the watch always displays the correct local time. 

Seiko offers a range of solar-powered watches in their current catalog, from very simple and affordable to quite complicated and high-end, and everything in between. The most affordable models will be made with mineral crystals, have a small amount of water resistance, and will only show the time and maybe the date. 

As the price increases, features such as titanium cases instead of stainless steel, sapphire crystals, higher water resistance, additional complications, and GPS functionality will enter the picture. In terms of battery life, simple models will run for approximately 10 months on a full charge. 

More advanced models will have a power reserve of 6 months. Still, with the addition of a power saving function (similar to a computer’s sleep mode), the watch will continue to keep accurate time for 2 years internally. But it will not display any functions until the watch is worn and exposed to light. 

Due to the many benefits of solar quartz watches, they have proven popular with many consumers. Seiko has taken this into consideration and offers a wide variety of solar quartz watches and various different prices.

The Best Seiko Solar Watches

1. Seiko SNE039

With a retail price of 195 USD, the SNE039 is very much on the affordable end of the spectrum. The splash-resistant rated stainless steel case measures 37.4mm wide and 9.2mm thick and has 20mm lugs. The black dial and lumed hands and indices are covered by a Hardlex crystal. 

The V158 Solar movement inside is rated to +/- 15 seconds per month and has a 10-month power reserve when fully charged. The movement also features a day/date display and has a function that prevents overcharging of the battery. While the style of the watch is versatile, the limited water resistance limits this watch to desk duty. If hassle-free and unobtrusive are the order, the SNE039 will be a great fit.

2. Seiko SNE529

The SNE529 has the same V158 movement inside, but the finishing on the 40mm wide case is much improved. There are contrasting brushed and polished sections on the case and bezel, and the sunburst green dial with gold indices is covered by a sapphire crystal. 

The 20mm wide brown leather strap may indicate more dressy attire, but a strap change will make this watch more water worthy with its 100 meters of water resistance. These upgrades do increase the cost to 240 USD, but they do make the watch very suitable for everyday wear. The SNE529 makes for a worry-free ownership experience. 

3. Seiko SNE329

If dress watches are not the desired style, the SNE329 may be a better fit. At 195 USD, the blue pilot-inspired dial with lumed hands and indices is covered with a Hardlex crystal, but the sporting design is backed up with 100 meters of water resistance. 

Significantly larger, the 43mm wide stainless steel case comes with the V158 movement inside and is attached to a blue nylon strap. The SNE329 is casual and bold and will definitely be more of a statement on the wrist. 

4. Seiko SSC667

Part of the Recraft series, the SSC667 is inspired by Seiko designs from the 1960s and 70s. The case design and blue and orange color scheme is indicative of the era, inspiring notions of motorsport ambitions. The V175 movement is rated to +/-15 seconds per month.

It features a 60-minute chronograph, 24-hour indication, and date display. The battery will last up to 6 months when fully charged and includes an overcharge prevention feature. The sunray-finished bright blue dial and tachymeter are covered by a Hardlex crystal. 

The 43.6mm wide case is 12.2mm thick, has 100 meters of water resistance, and the nylon strap measures 22mm wide. The 350 USD retail price is largely due to the added complication of the chronograph. Seiko’s solar-powered chronographs have been an enthusiast favorite, as they offer a reliable and affordable way to add a chronograph to the collection. 

5. Seiko SUP880

Many collectors focus on sports watches but realize that their favorite dive watch is not always appropriate. If the need for a true dress watch is a rare occasion, a solar-powered dress watch is a great solution. The long power reserve and lower cost compared to a mechanical watch make these watches easy to wear whenever needed. 

The SUP880 is powered by the V115 movement, displaying only the time, and has a 12-month power reserve when fully charged. Measuring 28.4mm wide and 6.1mm thick, the dimensions may seem small, but rectangular watches wear larger than their dimensions suggest.

The Hardlex crystal and splash-resistant rating may not put this watch in consideration for one of the most durable, but it should still be able to handle a formal evening out. The SUP880 has a retail price of 195 USD.

6. Seiko SNE549

The convenience of a solar quartz watch still applies to sports watches. While mechanical movements are fascinating and charismatic, solar quartz watches allow for a low-maintenance user experience. The SNE549 is a PADI Special Edition dive watch that measures 43.5mm wide and 11.6mm thick, with a 20mm wide bracelet. The Hardlex crystal may be preferred in this context, as it is less prone to shattering than sapphire. 

Inside is the V157 movement, which adds a quick start function, which starts the watch after the battery has been depleted, and the seconds hand will move every two seconds. With 200 meters of water resistance and a unidirectional bezel, the SNE549 is an ISO-certified dive watch, ready for water adventures. The SNE549 retails for 395 USD and provides a great affordable, low-maintenance option for a dive watch. 

7. Seiko SSC811

Coming from Seiko’s Coutura collection, the SSC811 is one of Seiko’s boldest designs. The large 45.5mm wide case measures 56mm lug to lug and 12.3mm thick. The stainless steel case is colored black with a hard coating, and the textured black dial with rose gold accents is covered by a sapphire crystal.

Inside is the V192 movement, which offers accuracy rated to +/-15 seconds per month, a 6-month power reserve, a 60-minute chronograph, power reserve indication, date, and 24-hour indication. Backing up the sporting looks of the SSC811 is a water resistance of 100 meters and a screw-down crown.

The silicone strap is integrated into the design, allowing for a cohesive look between the case and strap, but limits strap options to those offered by the brand. The added complications and more premium features increase the retail price to 495 USD, which is still a relatively low price for a reliable watch with a bold contemporary design. 

8. Seiko SNJ025

The SNJ025 has been nicknamed “The Arnie” after the watch the famous actor wore in Commando and Predator. This 47.8mm wide watch has a large demeanor to match the famous actor, but a relatively restrained 50.5mm lug-to-lug and 13.8mm thickness allow it to maintain some semblance of wearability.

The SNJ025 is utility focused, with the H851 Ana-digi movement inside. This solar quartz is rated to +/-15 seconds a month, with a 6-month power reserve, and 20 months when in power save mode. The movement functions include a 100-hour chronograph, alarm function, perpetual calendar, low battery warning, and an LED light function for the dial.

Rated to 200 meters of water resistance, and with a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crowns and case back, this dive watch is prepared to deal with whatever can be thrown at it. The Hardlex crystal’s improved shatter resistance is preferred in this application over a sapphire crystal. The SNJ025 retails for 525 USD. 

9. Seiko SSG015

Adding a world time function and radio sync functionality to the previously discussed solar-powered chronograph and date movements, the SSG015 with the 8B92 movement inside ensures accuracy while traveling the globe. The quartz movement alone is more accurate than a mechanical watch, but the radio sync automatically receives radio signals to adjust the time, making certain the accurate time is displayed. 

The 45mm wide black coated case measures 13mm thick, 50mm lug to lug, and is rated to 100 meters of water resistance, 13mm thick. The black dial with Breguet-style printed numerals is covered by a Hardlex Crystal. The SSG015 had a retail price of 595 USD but has been discontinued. New old stock and used examples are readily available, with prices varying depending on condition. 

10. Seiko SNE575

A common complaint of many modern dive watches is their larger size. While larger dials aid in legibility, the case sizes also increase, making them difficult to wear for many people with smaller wrists. Additionally, some buyers prefer a smaller watch. The SNE575 is a PADI special edition dive watch with 200 meters of water resistance, a unidirectional bezel, and a screw-down crown.

The case measures 38.5mm wide, 10.6mm thick, and 46.5mm lug to lug. Behind the dial and sapphire crystal is the V147 movement, with a rated accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, a 10-month power reserve, low battery indication, and a date display. While the size is smaller, the SNE575 is no less capable than many other dive watches on the market. The SNE575 retails for 495 USD.

11. Seiko SSC813

The SSC813 has been a recent fan favorite of the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer collection. With a conventionally sized 39mm wide case and tri-compax dial layout, the SSC813 allows collectors to own a conventional-looking chronograph without the headaches of a vintage mechanical one.

The white dial with dark sub-dials is covered with a curved sapphire crystal. The V192 movement is rated to +/- 15 seconds per month, has a 6-month power reserve, 60-minute chronograph, 24-hour display, and date.

The 100 meters of water resistance will also ensure durability for daily wear. The case measures 13.3mm thick and 45.5mm lug to lug, making it wearable for various buyers. With a retail price of 675 USD, a modern feature set, and good looks, it is easy to see why enthusiasts have been excited about the SSC813.

12. Seiko SNE455

If a bold design without complications is desired, the SNE455 could be a good fit. Measuring 42.9mm wide and 10.99mm thick, the larger case diameter, angular case, and bracelet design will draw attention. Inside is the V157 movement, rated to +/- 15 seconds a month and a 10-month power reserve, with low power indication and date function. 

The sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance make this watch more than capable of handling daily wear and can handle light swimming use. The SNE455 retailed for 440 USD but has been discontinued. Fortunately, plenty of used and new old stock examples are available with some light research online.

13. Seiko SSH065J1

As a full expression of what Seiko is capable of in solar quartz watches, the SSH065 is part of their higher-end Astron collection. The 42.8mm wide case and 21mm wide bracelet are made from titanium with a super-hard coating. Measuring 14.7mm thick and 50.3mm lug to lug, the watch will wear a little large, but some of the size is due to accommodating the various functions. 

The 5X53 movement is a GPS-syncing solar quartz movement, which allows for accurate time display as long as the watch is able to receive a GPS signal. The battery life is rated to 6 months and 2 years while in power save mode. The movement also features a perpetual calendar, world time function, dual time display, day and date display, power reserve indicator, the ability to swap the two time displays, daylight savings time setting, and automatic hand position alignment. 

In a way, this could be the ultimate traveler’s watch, as it will automatically keep accurate time and display the correct local time anywhere in the world, assuming there is a GPS signal. With 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, the SSH065 should be able to handle a wide variety of situations and look good doing it. The SSH065 retails for 2500 USD. 

14. Seiko SNE479

With an integrated bracelet and minimalist dial, the design-oriented look of the SNE479 makes for a striking watch. The 40.1mm wide and 9mm thick case features a hard coating and a Hardlex crystal. Inside is the V157 solar movement seen before. 

While the hard coating will protect the case and bracelet from small scratches that result from daily wear, the watch is only splash resistant, making it unsuitable for sporting activities. However, the bold look of the large minimalist black dial and integrated design can handle a night out. The SNE479 retails for 250 USD, leaving room for another round. 

15. Seiko SNE586

Should the SNE575 be a bit bland, the SNE586 offers a more contemporary and bold take on the smaller dive watch. Featuring the same case dimensions and features as the SNE575, the change to the rose gold plated case, and a black silicone strap to match the black dial and bezel make the SNE586 more fashion-forward.

While the look is more daring, it is no less capable than the SNE575, maintaining 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal. The SNE586 has the same retail price of 495 USD, making the decision between the two a matter of aesthetic preference rather than differences in specifications.

Conclusion

Seiko’s development of their own solar quartz technology has allowed them to create a wide variety of watches for a wide variety of buyers. With long power reserves, no need to change batteries, and great accuracy, solar-powered quartz watches have many benefits. 

Should the worry-free ownership experience be appealing, Seiko undoubtedly makes a watch that will suit any desired needs. These 15 watches offer a brief overview of the Men’s models Seiko has available. 

The movement or caliber in a watch is like the motor in a car, the mechanism in a gearbox, or the beating heart in your chest. For centuries engineers have pushed the boundaries of what is possible with an automatic movement, and with contemporary mechanics, watch calibers are better than ever. 

The pride of Japan, Seiko, is one of the leading caliber suppliers to the watch world and has produced several different kinds over the years. From high complications to a humble date function, let’s look at the 15 best Seiko movements. 

About Seiko Movements

As mentioned, Seiko is incredibly innovative with horological movements and has been one of the leading caliber makers since its beginning. The first of the Seiko watches to feature a true sweep second hand was the Super, which was introduced a few years after WWII. 

Unfortunately, the movement within the Super didn’t have a movement number. The first movement to have a number was in 1956, called the 290, which powered the Seiko Marvel. The caliber 290 featured auto-wind capability, a first for Seiko, which they called ‘Gyro Marvel’. 

Over the next few years, Seiko continued to innovate, providing more accurate and reliable movements. They even introduced a high-end watch category for the opulent customers called ‘King Seiko’, but still a step below the exclusive ‘Grand Seiko’. 

King Seikos had slightly improved movements compared to regular Seikos, such as the high-end 56XX range, the ‘Vanac’, and the ‘Lordmatic’. On December 25, 1969, Seiko released the first quartz-powered wristwatch. Rather than working with mechanical automatic movement, it is powered by a battery sending power through a quartz crystal to the hands of the watch.

The Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ was far more accurate than mechanical watches, and most quartz watches are still more accurate today. Seiko doubled down on innovation, and in 1977, they released a solar-powered watch, and in 1988, they started production of the Seiko KINETIC.

The KINETIC had an oscillating weight that would convert movement into electricity and thereby powering the quartz movement. Seiko continued to engineer their mechanical movements throughout history, and in 2005 released the revolutionary ‘Seiko Spring Drive’.

Combining the endless power of an automatic movement and the precision of a quartz movement, the Spring Drive uses a Tri-Synchro regulator to convert mechanical force from the mainspring to electrical energy.

The History of Seiko

Seiko finds its origin in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori set up a small watch-repair shop in central Tokyo. 11 Years later, Mr. Hattori set up the ‘Seikosha’ factory after purchasing a disused factory. Seiko started their business by producing watch clocks, followed by pocket watches, and then in 1913, they released their first wristwatch – the Laurel. 

The Laurel was also the first wristwatch to be made in Japan and was a small, time-only watch featuring a small seconds hand, but it did not feature the Seiko namesake on the dial. The first watch to feature the Seiko name on the dial only went on sale in late 1924. 

Over the last 100 years, Seiko has become one of the giants in the horology world, producing millions of watches each year, renowned for their accuracy, durability, and technological prowess. 

Best Seiko Movements

Seiko Caliber 7S26 (and 7S36)

The caliber 7S26 started production in 1996 and became the workhorse in the Seiko lineup, being updated to the 7S26B in 2006 and 7S26C in 2011. The cal. 7S26 was featured in a myriad of watches, from the Seiko 5 range to the famous Seiko SKX range. 

The accuracy of this entry-level movement was rated at -20 to +40 seconds per day and was equipped with a 41-hour power reserve, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It also featured a day-date function at the 3 o’clock position. 

The 7S26 is equipped with 21 jewels, and the newer cal. 7S36 has 23 jewels. It is speculated that the cal. 7S36 was supposed to replace the 7S26, but the cal. 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 and can still be found in modern Seiko 5s. 

The movement can usually go 5 – 25 years before a service is due, but due to inflation and changing times, the service costs might often be more than the movement or the entire watch. 

Seiko Caliber 4R36

As just mentioned, the caliber 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 in many of Seiko’s entry-level watches. Introduced in 2019, the movement features in every single modern Seiko 5, barring, of course, the newly introduced GMTs. It also powers other Seiko’s like SARY055, Stargate II SRP510, Monster SRP455 Limited Edition, and Recraft SRPC13K1. 

The movement is equipped with a robust 40-hour power reserve thanks to a 21,600 bph frequency. It features 24 jewels and has an accuracy of +45 / -35 seconds per day. 

The upgrade compared to the cal. 7S26 came with the addition of hand-winding and hacking capabilities, improving any watch’s capabilities dramatically. The 4R36 is still going strong and is also being produced as the cal. NH36 for non-Seiko watches. 

Seiko Caliber 6R15 (and 6R35)

Moving from entry-level sports watches to dress and tool watches, we have the caliber 6R15. Powering models like the Sumo SBDC027 Prospex Diver, Alpinist SARB017, and some Prospex Divers, the caliber had 4 different versions (A, B, C, and D) is the base caliber for the calibers 6R20, 6R21, and 6R24, and 6R27.

Elevating from what we’ve already discussed, the 6R15 has a robust 50-hour power reserve, beats at 21,600 vph, and has an accuracy of -15 / +25 seconds per day. In case it isn’t clear, this movement is a massive step up from the 7S26. It is also cheaper to produce than some other Seiko calibers. 

The upgrade, the 6R35, doubles down on innovation. Not only is the power reserve bumped to 70 hours, but it is thinner than the 6R15. If you find a Seiko powered by the upgrade, be expected to pay a little more than a 6R15-powered Seiko. 

Seiko Caliber 8L35

The caliber 8L35 is based on the Grand Seiko caliber 9S55 and is, apparently, assembled by hand by hand at Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio in Morioka. With an accuracy of -10 / +15 seconds per day, the caliber is pretty accurate even though Seiko suggests you service your watch regularly once every 2-3 years. 

The watch powers various Proxpex divers, Marinemasters, and Brightz Phoenix models and features normal time functionality and a date function at the 3 o’clock position. In 2015, Seiko introduced micro-electromechanical parts in the 8L35 range, and these upgraded calibers were featured in higher-end Prospex divers.

Seiko Caliber 5R65

Found in select Seiko models like the Seiko Marinemaster Golden Tuna, the cal. 5R65 offers an amazing accuracy rating of +/- 1 seconds per day and only +/- 15 seconds per month. This is because the movement features the spring drive technology we mentioned before. 

With a sturdy power reserve of 70 hours and the reassurance that the movement cannot be overwound (thanks to the slipping mechanism), the movement is a favorite amongst enthusiasts. Being able to beat at a frequency of 28,800 vph while maintaining a high power reserve is a tremendous technological feat. 

There is one different version of the cal. 5R65 called the cal. 5R64, which instead of a center seconds hand, has a small seconds hand. 

Seiko Caliber 8R48

The first chronograph caliber in our list features in the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer range. Initially introduced in 2014 within the limited edition Prospex SRQ029, with only 1000 produced. Caliber 8R46 is a tribute to Seiko’s first-ever chronograph watch, released in 1969. 

The cal. 8R48 has a vertical clutch and a column wheel for precise timekeeping, and with an adequate power reserve of 45 hours, it makes for a very usable chronograph. You can also find the cal. 8R48 in other watches as the cal. NE86, since Seiko supply their own movements as third-party technology to other companies. 

Overall, the cal. 8R48 is one of the best modern chronographs, according to enthusiasts, thanks to its remarkable precision and, due to the 34 jewels, exceptional reliability. 

Seiko Caliber NH35 (NH38, and NH36)

As mentioned, the cal. NH35 is essentially the Seiko cal. 4R35, which was introduced somewhere in 2011 – 2012. Chances are that most of the entry-level watches you have seen were or are powered by this movement, as if features in everything from Invicta, Vostok, and, of course, various cost-effective Seikos. 

The hand-windable movement features a hacking function as well as a 41-hour power reserve. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the caliber has an accuracy of -20 / +40 seconds per day, which is why the movement can be replaced for quite cheap – $40 – $80. 

The cal. NH35 is still a true workhorse, and so are its variations. The NH36 is a day-date version that is based on the Seiko cal. 4R36. The cal. NH38 is a no-frills version of the cal. NH35, as it does not feature a date function and is only a three-hand movement. 

Seiko Caliber Y675 (and Y676)

The cal. Y675 is a rather old movement, introduced in the early 2000s but has long since been discontinued. The cal. Y675 is actually based on the cal. 7S25 and does not feature hacking or manual winding, unlike many of the other Seiko calibers. Seiko did not use this caliber themselves, but you’ll still be able to find it within its sister brands like Pulsar and Lorus.

Beating at a frequency of 21,600 bph and rated with an accuracy of -35 / +45 seconds per day, the movement would never set the world on fire. It was still cheap to produce and provided the beautiful sweeping seconds hand we all love. There was also another version of the movement called the cal. Y676, which added a day-date complication. 

Seiko VK63 (VK64, and VK67)

Produced by Seiko Instruments Inc. (SII), the quartz VK63 forms part of the ‘hybrid mechanical quartz’ or ‘mechaquartz’ range. The regular timekeeping duties are dealt with by the quartz crystal, while a mechanical module will take care of the chronograph function.

Quartz movements will always be incredibly accurate, and the VK63 is no different, reporting only a deviation of +/- 20 seconds per month. The battery (number 394) is rated to last 3 years, but it depends on how often you end up using the chronograph function.

The cal. VK67 is based on the same base as the cal. VK63, with the only difference being that the cal. VK67 has a 12-hour indicator, whereas the cal. VK63 has a 24-hour indicator. The cal. VK64 has exactly the same base; however, its subregisters are located at 3 and 9 o’clock. It also has a date function at 6 o’clock.

Seiko Caliber 4R34 (and NH34)

The functionality of a GMT is perhaps the most usable complication in automatic watches, and to meet the market demands for a cost-effective GMT, Seiko released the Seiko 5 Sports GMT series in June of 2022. 

Internally, these GMTs would be powered by the new cal. 4R34. This new movement boasts a power reserve of 41 hours when fully wound. Accuracy is good for the price you pay, rated at -35 / +45 seconds per day, and thanks to 24 jewels, the movement would only need a service every 2 – 3 years. 

The cal. NH34 is the third-party version of the cal. 4R34, and will feature in other cost-effective GMTs from microbrands like the PHOIBOS Voyager GMT 200M Automatic Diver Watch.

Seiko Caliber 5X53

Recall the solar-powered watches Seiko introduced in 1977. The cal. 5X53 is one of those solar-powered calibers and powers some modern Seikos like the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time models. 

Being a quartz movement, its accuracy is ridiculous and rated at +/-15 seconds per month. Unlike many other quartz movements, it can set the time automatically using GPS. Even more impressive is the ‘power reserve’ of the battery, holding 6 months’ worth of power. 

The cal. 5X53 also features a host of complications, a pointer day subdial at the 3 o’clock position, a date window at the 16h30 position, as well as a world time function. 

Seiko Caliber V175

Another solar-powered movement, but this time has the added functionality of being a chronograph as well. Powering the Prospex Air Diver’s Chronograph series, the cal. V175 is actually a remarkable movement because you get the functionality of a chronograph with precision and limitless power from a quartz solar caliber. 

With an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month, the cal. V175 is far more accurate than any automatic caliber mentioned, barring the spring drive. Seiko claims the watch merely needs 2 minutes of sunlight exposure to store enough energy to last a full day and about 5 hours to charge the watch fully. When fully charged, it’d last 6 months.

Seiko Caliber 7A28A

The cal. 7A28A falls in the ‘neo-vintage’ range of watch calibers, not quite old enough to be vintage, but since production started in 1983, it has had some life. The cal. 7A28A also carries a massive title, being the first analog display quartz chronograph ever produced.

The 80s were filled with watches that had LCDs, and so Seiko decided to drive innovation once again by going in the other direction. The cal. 7A28A did not feature plastic parts like other quartz movements, which meant the caliber could be serviced.

With an accuracy rating of +/- 10 seconds per month, small wonder superspy James Bond had a variation of the cal. 7A28A on his wrist in the movie ‘A View to a Kill’. Actor Roger Moore wore the Seiko model SPR007, a white dial stainless steel chronograph.

Seiko Caliber 7C46

Another older quartz caliber known as the cal. &c46, which was introduced in 1986. It featured in some higher-end Seikos like the Marinemaster and some Prospex divers. It also featured in the famous Seiko ‘Tuna’ models. 

It features a day-date complication, and thanks to its higher beating frequency, the caliber, like all other quartz movements, has a high accuracy rating. In fact, it’s rated at only +/- 15 seconds per month. Battery life is rated at 5 years. 

Seiko Caliber VH31

The cal. VH31 was introduced as a means to combine the precision of a quartz movement with the romanticism of a smooth second hand. Well, Seiko increased the quartz oscillation frequency to try and achieve that with the cal. VH31. 

The second hand beats four times per second, making the movement much smoother and similar to the smooth movement of an automatic caliber. 

Because the frequency is quite a bit higher, the battery life is only rated at 2 years, with accuracy being +/- 15 seconds per month.

Conclusion

When looking at the various offerings of the Seiko 5 range, it is clear that Seiko rewards innovation within their company, and it shows with their caliber manufacturing as well. Seiko did produce the first quartz watch but has also provided the world with some amazing automatic movements.

Let us not forget the groundbreaking spring movement, which set the horology world on fire. Seiko will continue to innovate not only with design but with technological prowess as well.