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There’s no doubt that when you hear the name Omega Speedmaster, your first thought might be, “Ah yes, the first watch worn on the moon.” While the Moonwatch has firmly secured its place in the hearts and wishlists of watch enthusiasts, it’s important not to overlook the Speedmaster’s origins.

The name Speedmaster carries a rich history, whether it’s the version designed to endure high speeds on the track, racing against time, or the one crafted to support space exploration. 

While the journey to the moon undoubtedly elevated Omega’s status, for those who believed man’s true mission was racing on Earth, Omega represented the pinnacle of precision and reliability. Its robust chronograph, paired with the tachymeter scale on the bezel, made it an essential tool for speed enthusiasts.

There’s a reason the Olympics trusts Omega—the world’s biggest sporting event—to guarantee accurate and reliable results when capturing those split-second moments that determine the fastest on Earth. No one measures what the human eye can’t detect quite like Omega. So, buckle up for the origin story of a watch that may not have ventured into space but remains timeless: the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph.

About The Omega Speedmaster Racing

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was the go-to timepiece for any motorist wanting to track their speed while looking stylish. If you’re new to chronograph watches, here’s a simple breakdown of how they work.

Like any regular watch, the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph keeps the time. However, it also features a chronograph—a specialized complication that acts as a stopwatch, essential for anyone looking to measure time intervals. 

Pressing the button at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph hand, while the button at 4 o’clock resets the stopwatch, making it a versatile tool for timing events.

The original models of the Speedmaster Racing featured three sub-dials, a standard design in most chronographs. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock measures the seconds for the stopwatch, the one at 6 o’clock tracks the hours, and the sub-dial at 3 o’clock records the minutes that have elapsed. This setup allows for precise timing and makes the Speedmaster Racing an invaluable tool for drivers and timekeepers alike.

The Speedmaster Racing Chronograph also features a tachymeter, a scale on the bezel that measures speed based on time and distance. This tool is ideal for calculating speed over a fixed distance. 

To use it, simply start the chronograph at the beginning of the distance and stop it at the end. The central chronograph hand will point to a number on the tachymeter, indicating the speed. For example, if a vehicle takes 40 seconds to cover a mile, the hand will point to 100 on the tachymeter, indicating the vehicle was traveling at 100 mph.

According to some Omega lore, the first Speedmaster Racing didn’t feature the now-iconic black-and-white dial. While accounts differ depending on the storyteller, we can trace the origins of this legendary watch back to its initial release in 1957.

History of Omega Speedmaster Racing Watches

When the Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was released, it was the first of its kind to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel rather than on the dial, enhancing both functionality and legibility. 

While some recall seeing a racer wearing a black-and-white Speedmaster Racing in 1962 at Le Mans, others suggest that the original version featured a “racing” dial. 

This variation stood out with a prominent orange chronograph hand, along with matching orange sub-dials and hour indices. These vibrant colors improved legibility, making it easier for racers to track their stats on the go.

But as history would have it, the Speedmaster became synonymous with space exploration, and the production of the Racing variant was halted, overshadowed by the legendary “Moonwatch.” 

Records indicate that Omega produced a Speedmaster with a racing dial from 1968 to 1970, but these models were not mass-produced. 

Some notable releases were the Orange Racing ref. 145.022 that came with a sleek grey dial instead of the jet black we’ve come to know and the Speedmaster MKII ref. 145.014. With only a few hundred units believed to have been made, these watches are now considered rare and highly sought after by collectors.

In the 1990s, Omega revived their line of Speedmaster Racing watches, this time to honor legendary racers like Michael Schumacher and Michael Andretti. Omega created exclusive timepieces in their names, featuring bold designs and exciting color combinations that captured the spirit of motorsport.

Andretti’s Speedmaster Racing came with a striking blue dial, complete with the “CART” logo displayed in the 6 o’clock subdial. Both Michael and Ralf Schumacher joined Omega as ambassadors and received models within the Speedmaster Reduced family, available in vibrant yellow and red. 

Omega continued to honor Michael Schumacher over the years with several limited-edition Speedmasters, which helped shape the creative direction of the Racing line moving forward.

In 2004, Omega released a limited edition Speedmaster exclusively in Japan, with just 2,004 pieces produced. This “Japan Racing” model drew heavy inspiration from the 1970 MKII, showcasing the same gray dial with red and orange accents on the outer track. 

Alongside it was the now-famous Speedmaster “Tintin,” released in 2013, which, though initially a commercial failure, later gained a dedicated following. These releases sparked renewed enthusiasm among Speedmaster Racing fans, fueling demand for even more Racing editions.

Omega Speedmaster Racing: In-Depth Review

The Speedmaster Racing family now boasts several models, each with updated dials and enhanced movements. While many models share similar stats and features, some are designed to be even more functional for those eager to push the Speedmaster Racing to its full potential.

Case

The Omega Speedmaster Racing showcases a stainless steel case with a 44.25 mm diameter, a lug-to-lug width of 50 mm, and a thickness of 14.9 mm. Its domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects both the dial and the transparent caseback, offering a glimpse into Omega’s horological mastery. 

The chronograph buttons and crown provide a smooth, responsive action that enhances the user experience. With its mirror-like polished finish and 50 meters of water resistance, this striking case perfectly balances elegance and durability.

Bezel

A standout feature of the Speedmaster Racing, and the Speedmaster line as a whole, is the tachymeter scale’s placement on the bezel. This innovation marked a first in watchmaking, moving the tachymeter from the dial to the ceramic bezel. 

This not only enhanced the watch’s functionality but also contributed to the iconic look that has become synonymous with the Speedmaster name. Depending on the dial’s colorway, the markings on the tachymeter scale will vary in color. 

Dials

At first glance, you might think the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Racing share a similar dial layout, but that’s not the case. The Omega Speedmaster Racing opts for two subdials positioned at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock markers, unlike the three subdials commonly seen on chronographs. 

Notably, the 3 o’clock subdial merges the 60-minute and 12-hour counters, enhancing readability when precision timing is crucial, such as during high-speed activities. 

The Speedmaster Racing embraces a vibrant and sporty aesthetic, featuring hands and sub-dials in colors like red, yellow, and orange, which enhance visibility and evoke a sense of excitement. This colorful approach sets it apart from the traditional black-and-white designs often found in the Speedmaster lineup. 

Additionally, the markers around the dial draw inspiration from the checkered flag, further reinforcing the racing theme. These elements combine to create a dynamic look that reflects the spirit of motorsport while maintaining Omega’s signature craftsmanship and precision.

Movements

The Omega Speedmaster Racing is predominantly driven by the in-house Caliber 9900, with a few models as exceptions. Omega designed this movement to power a tool watch with utmost durability, precision, and reliability. Introduced in 2015, the Caliber 9900 is an automatic movement that features a chronograph complication and date display.

It boasts a 60-hour power reserve and an impressive accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day. The movement incorporates a Co-Axial Escapement for enhanced precision and stability, as well as a Column-Wheel Chronograph Mechanism for smoother chronograph functionality. Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the chronograph is a certified Master Chronometer, underscoring Omega’s commitment to excellence.

Straps

The 21 mm lug width of the Speedmaster Racing offers a versatile range of options for swapping out the stainless steel bracelet. This size accommodates Omega’s beautifully crafted leather straps, which offer a refined look or a NATO strap for a more Bond-inspired feel. 

The stainless steel bracelet features a precisely engineered clasp with a comfort setting, allowing for easy adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. On the other hand, the leather strap, with its alligator leather front and calfskin underside, provides both elegance and comfort. It is secured with a sophisticated folding clasp, completing the watch’s versatile and luxurious appeal.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Racing Models

From once being overshadowed within the Speedmaster family to now standing as a prized timepiece, the Omega Speedmaster Racing catalog has come full circle and now flourishes with variety. 

Offering a wide array of models and color combinations, this collection presents something for every watch enthusiast. Here are five of the most popular Omega Speedmaster Racing models to explore.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph 44.25mm (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.001)

For those just entering the world of the Speedmaster or looking to expand their Omega collection, the iconic 2017 black-and-white dial Speedmaster Racing is a top choice. With an uncluttered design, this model offers excellent legibility. 

The 3 o’clock subdial handles both minute and hour tracking, leaving ample room for the date window and clear reminders of the Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification. This watch embodies a cool, classic style and serves as an ideal entry point into the Racing family.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph White Dial 44.25mm (ref. 329.33.44.51.04.001)

If you’re looking to stand out from the crowd and already own plenty of black dials, the 2017 white dial Speedmaster Racing might be the one for you. With a stunning white matte finish, bright orange accents on the Speedmaster logo and the chronograph hand’s tip, and a refined leather strap, this watch is a unique twist on the classic. 

While the Moonwatch only introduced a white dial recently, the Racing variant has been confidently showcasing its crisp, distinctive look for years—just waiting to make its way to your wrist.

Omega Speedmaster Super Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.003)

For the seasoned collector seeking a piece of Omega history, the 2023 Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is a true gem. Paying homage to the 2013 Seamaster Aqua Terra >15’000 GAUSS, this model boasts a striking black honeycomb-textured dial with bold yellow accents on both the dial and bezel, giving it a distinct and dynamic presence. 

The yellow lume and the black-and-yellow hand on the 9 o’clock subdial add extra flair, while the watch comes with a versatile stainless steel bracelet and a NATO strap for a sportier look. Powered by the Caliber 9920, it features Omega’s innovative Spirate System, delivering remarkable precision with an accuracy of 0 to +2 seconds per day. With intricate details and an impeccable build, this timepiece is as much a joy to behold as it is to own.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer (ref. 329.32.44.51.01.001)

In 2017, Omega introduced a Speedmaster Racing model that embraces its racing heritage with an invigorating update. This black dial variant steps away from the traditional black-and-white Speedmaster look, adding vibrant orange accents to the hands, hour markers, and chronograph tip. 

These bold pops of color bring the racing spirit to the forefront, making it a fitting tribute to Omega’s motorsport roots. Complementing the dial, a matching black-and-orange racing strap ties the design together, capturing the essence of speed and precision in a fresh, visually compelling package. This model stands as a dynamic and engaging addition to the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph lineup.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer Sedna Gold (ref. 329.53.44.51.03.001)

No list of standout Speedmaster Racing models would be complete without highlighting the extravagant Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronograph in Sedna Gold. This luxurious offering from the 2017 collection is truly a stunning timepiece. 

The 18k Sedna Gold case pairs beautifully with the ceramic blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast. The sun-brushed blue dial, adorned with gold accents, further enhances its elegance, while the blue alligator leather strap adds a touch of sophistication. This watch represents the pinnacle of racing luxury and is an impressive addition to any collection, combining refined craftsmanship with a bold racing spirit.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster Racing?

I firmly believe there are no rules in watch collecting. The Omega Speedmaster Racing is crafted for those eager to push the limits of velocity—a perfect tool for measuring what can’t be calculated without the right equipment. But what if you’re not into racing? Does that exclude you from enjoying this watch’s purpose? Absolutely not. 

Owning a Speedmaster Racing means possessing a piece of history. By choosing this watch, you breathe new life into a model that was once overlooked due to the moonshot of fate—quite literally. With various options to choose from, there’s no reason not to step away from the classic and acquire one of the most beautiful toolwatches in history.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Pricing & Availability

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph retails for $9,200 for the leather strap variant and $9,600 for the model with the steel bracelet. In the pre-owned market, these watches typically sell for between $5,500 and $6,500.

The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is priced at $11,600, but finding this model in the pre-owned market can be quite challenging. The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer in Sedna Gold retails for $31,700 and is available in the pre-owned market for around $19,000.

All of these watches can be purchased at Exquisite Timepieces today.

Conclusion

Omega has revived this original brainchild, lifting it from obscurity and restoring it to a prominence that rivals the models that once overshadowed it. The Speedmaster Racing is now celebrated alongside its iconic sibling, proving that it’s every bit as relevant in the watch world as the Moonwatch.

Okay, fellow watch nerds. A question. What is the one type of watch we all must have in our collections? Some of you may have said a beefy diver. Others a sleek chronograph. Maybe you love an elegant dress watch or a cool-as-hell tourbillon. 

Think in more general terms. What we all need is a GADA watch. A timepiece that looks and feels great that we can wear with almost any outfit to almost any occasion. The type of watch that suits your GADA needs may differ from mine, but I would like to suggest a Grand Seiko reference.

You may be thinking, “Grand Seiko does dress watches, I rarely wear a suit”. Well, as it turns out, the esteemed Japanese brand does some terrific sport watches, too. One of them is the SBGN021. 

This quartz movement GMT timepiece has the stunning design, reliability, and accuracy you’d expect from Grand Seiko in a watch you could wear every day, no matter where you are headed. Let’s take a look at this GS masterpiece.

History

The beginning of the SBGN021 story is 2018, when Grand Seiko introduced the caliber 9F86 movement, the brand’s first quartz GMT. From that time on, Grand Seiko has used the movement in an ever-growing lineup of sport watches. 

In 2021, GS added three stunning GMTs to the sport collection, one of which was the SBGN021. The release of these watches celebrated the 140th anniversary of the brand, and they certainly went all out in creating a watch that can hold its own with any brand’s GMT.

With the clean lines typical of Grand Seiko and the incredible accuracy of quartz, along with the cool factor of a GMT function, this is truly a watch that would be a favorite in anyone’s stable.

Case

The 40 mm round stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark mix of brushing and Zaratsu polishing for a look that really pops and catches the light beautifully. The size works well on a variety of wrists. 

40 mm is right in the wheelhouse for my 7.25-inch wrist. The short tapered lugs put the lug-to-lug at just 46.7 mm, so the watch wears a bit smaller than a typical 40 mm case and works well on smaller wrists. 

As expected with a GMT, the case is on the thick side at 13.7 mm, but you won’t likely be wearing this with dress shirts or suits, and the thickness nicely balances the other case dimensions.

The 24-hour bezel is scratch-resistant ceramic in a deep blue that pairs well with the dial. The screw-down solid case back, along with the screw-down crown, gives it a robust 200 meters of water resistance. 

You probably don’t want to wear this watch while searching for Davy Jones’ locker, but you can certainly swim with it. The case is also anti-magnetic to 200 gauss, which is not a bad feature to have. 

The crown sits at the 4 o’clock position. Not everyone likes the asymmetry, but with the date window in the same position, the look is unique and pretty symmetrical. The crown is slightly recessed, which gives the case a narrower look. It’s the kind of sleek design we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protrudes slightly above the dial. This adds a bit of thickness but also contributes to the clean lines. Naturally, it is anti-reflective coated, which will let you take a good look at the stunning dial. 

Dial

Grand Seiko has a sterling reputation for many things. Perhaps what they are best known for is their dials. The colors, the textures, the complementary handsets, and the way they react to light rank the beauty of their dials high among the world’s best.

You can include the SBGN021 in that esteemed group. The deep blue dial matches that bezel and has an incredible sunburst pattern with lines radiating from the center to the edges. It reminds me of the Seiko Presage Cocktail time dials. 

In low light, you see a pretty shade of blue, but when the light hits the dial, the sunburst pops like the first rays of daylight peeking over the horizon. You may find that you have trouble taking your eyes off it. I know I do.

Sitting under the crystal at the edge of the dial is a two-tone deep and light blue day/night display. Ticks sit at the hour marks, and there are ticks for each minute on the rehaut. The 12 o’clock index is an inverted trapezoid, and there are batons at the other hours. Each of the indices has three horizontal segments, with the center filled with Grand Seiko’s Lumibrite for easy viewing at night. 

The polished stainless-steel hands match the indices and complement the dial. The hour and minute hands have Lumibrite inserts. The GMT hand is a light blue arrow with Lumibrite and matches the letters “GMT” at six o’clock. 

Sitting at 12 is the trademark Grand Seiko logo and name. The 4 o’clock date window is a subtle black numeral on a white background, so it’s easy to see without drawing attention away from the gorgeous dial. 

The dial gives the watch the sporty feel you would expect from a GMT but has an elegance more akin to a dress watch. 

Movement

The SBGN021 is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house 9F86 quartz GMT movement. Yes, as horological enthusiasts, we tend to revere automatic movements, but don’t be so quick to dismiss this one. The SBGN021 is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year. You won’t be adjusting the time often at all with this movement.

Then, there is the convenience of a quartz. No winding. You could put your watch in a case for a week, a month, or even a year, and it will still keep accurate time. 

The GMT function can come in handy if you travel across time zones frequently or do business with people in other parts of the country or world. 

Even if that’s not the case, consider the cool factor. I love complications on watches. Having additional functions on my wrist without having to go the smartwatch route is appealing, and the GMT function is one of my favorites.

The SBGN021 is a true GMT, meaning that you can set just the hour hand to a new time zone while leaving the GMT set to home time. The ease of use and convenience make this a good watch for those just beginning to expand their collections. 

Straps

The three-link stainless-steel bracelet is classic and sporty. It closes with a three-fold clasp. The end links have an integrated look as they sit flush against the case. This adds to the clean and elegant design. The bracelet is mostly brushed but has polished facets for a bit of contrast. 

The bracelet has a slight taper that makes it comfortable as it conforms to the wrist. With the bracelet, this timepiece weighs 170 grams. 

That’s not light, but it’s not cumbersome either, and you will quickly get used to it if you are accustomed to lighter watches. The adjustment is done using screws, and there is no micro-adjustment. However, there are half links to help get a good fit.  

The 20 mm lugs are drilled, so if you ever want to change the bracelet, it will be easy to do. Honestly, the watch looks great as is.

On-Wrist Experience

Being a sporty GADA watch, you can wear the SBGN021 with nearly any kind of outfit. Obviously, it won’t pair with anything formal, but not many of us still wear suits. Although it’s a casual timepiece, it can class up a variety of outfits from shorts and a t-shirt to chinos and a polo shirt.

The blue is a dark shade which works as a neutral color. The dial and bezel will likely coordinate with at least 90% of your wardrobe. Cool colors like greens and blues, or hot ones like reds, oranges, and yellows, can all style nicely with this watch. Earthtones look great with the blue dial, too.

The 40 mm case will suit a wide variety of wrists, from small to even many on the large side. It’s a bit hefty but not super heavy due to the quartz movement, and with the bracelet and narrow lug-to-lug, it’s comfortable to wear on a daily basis. I find the SBGN021 feels as good as any watch in my collection.

If you are a traveler, this is the watch you want to hit the road with. The GMT function is incredibly useful, as is the accurate timekeeping, and the style will work with whatever you wear in any kind of climate. The quartz accuracy will make sure you are on time for any work or play events.

Full disclosure: I don’t own one of these beauties, but I have had the pleasure of trying one several times, and it is high on my list of future purchases. 

Price & Availability

Now that you are aware of how good a watch the SBGN021 is, perhaps you’re ready to try one on and buy it. They are readily available at any Grand Seiko boutique or from the brand’s website. 

You can also get one from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by our Naples, FL boutique to try one on and chat with the friendly sales staff. 

You can also buy one on Exquisite Timepieces with free shipping in the U.S. As an AD, we offer the Grand Seiko a 5-year warranty. This is one of Grand Seiko’s more affordable watches at just $4,550 retail. That’s a lot of bang for your buck.

Should you decide to go the pre-owned route, you can grab a used SBGN021 for between $3,800 and $4,300.

Conclusion

Every watch enthusiast needs a true GADA watch. You need that dependable timepiece that you can wear day after day on your mundane and amazing adventures. There are many options out there, but the Grand Seiko SBGN021 deserves serious consideration. 

Sporty elegance with accuracy, reliability, along with the prestige of the Grand Seiko name, make this a watch you need to check out. Be a globetrotter, or just dress like one.

As a commemorative gesture to the 44GS, which coined the Grand Seiko style, the watchmaker created the SBGJ255. The style of this watch definitely holds up to the status of a 55th anniversary and makes for a clean-looking statement piece.

You’ll find that the SBGJ255 features the same original 44GS look. However, it also comes with many unique design choices that make it stand out on its own. The watch was released in 2022, but it’ll be talked about for many years to come due to what it represents.

Choosing a luxury watch comes with several questions, but getting into the details of the components can help guide the decision-making process. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGJ255.

An Iconic Addition to the 44GS Lineage

Although the SBGJ225 was released back in 2022, interest in the watch still stands strong to this day. It features the notable aspects of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, with modern elements that’ll make you take a second look.

I respect the design choices that went into this 55th-anniversary limited edition, but what sold me was the fact it’s part of the Heritage collection. The historical significance on top of the simplistic design choices is perfect from my standpoint.

Considering it’s a limited edition, many enthusiasts are happy to get their hands on one. Even though you can find the SBGJ255 online, that doesn’t mean you should wait too long to shop around. This watch itself may not have a long history on the market, but the callback to the 1967 44GS inevitably makes it a timeless addition to the GS lineup.

Looking Into the Case

With a 40mm diameter, the case on this watch features a pretty standard size that looks great on most average wrist sizes. I’m always thankful for an open case back, as looking at the internal movement going to work is a beautiful sight to see. It’s important to note that the watch takes aspects from the 44GS style, but it isn’t an identical model or reissue.

I appreciate the case’s nice shine due to the Zaratsu polishing. For a little contrast, Grand Seiko always makes sure to add a little variation, which can be seen in the hints of brushed titanium.

A few other classic elements of this watch include a curved sideline, a polished bezel, and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The flat surface of the case is free of distortion. The small details make me take a deeper look, and the case delivers a uniformity that’s easy to marvel at.

The watch may be fitting for many different people, but the sizable nature of the case can feel more prominent from any angle. For me, this isn’t so much a deal breaker, but understandably, many people might not prefer a bulkier case.

I was a bit surprised by the half-recessed crown and their choice of a reverse-slanted bezel. It isn’t something I expected, but I love that Grand Seiko took this route. It makes for a much more uniform and pristine look, among other features. Some say that the case is thick and bulky, and although this is true to some degree, I can’t really say it’s a deal breaker. Maybe for some, but the case size blends perfectly with all of the surrounding features from my point of view.

Dialing In on the Details

At a glance, the dial may seem relatively simple, but there’s a surprising amount of detail put into every aspect of it. I have always loved a good colorway, but I’m really looking for how that color looks in the dial texture. The SBGJ255 comes with a vertical grain texture that looks great from every angle, and it’s known to be inspired by shōji screens.

The LumiBrite hands and hour markers make sure you can read the time in all light conditions, and the hands feature the same polish as the case. I love the fact it offers a subtle sparkle in the light but doesn’t come off too flashy at all. 

Little color accents are another detail that I look for in a GS watch. The Grand Seiko logo on the dial comes in a light blue, and this same color is seen in the “GMT” text, inner 24-hour markers, and the GMT hand as well.

Even with all of these minor details, I would still consider the dial to be pretty minimalist. Grand Seiko comes with a wide variety of timepieces, but I generally prefer when they take a simpler approach to the design. There’s a certain harmony found in every GS watch, and the SBGJ255 is a leading example of how they execute this with precision.

I’m not particularly interested in blue colorways, but the hints of blue against the white dial contrast the overall simplicity. You can easily read the watch in standard or military time, and the GMT hand makes it easy to track changing time zones.

The Movement That Makes the SBGJ255 Tick

Part of what has made Grand Seiko such a sought-after watchmaker over time is their dedication to in-house movements. The Caliber 9S86 is what puts this watch in motion. It’s a high-frequency movement that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). This creates an extremely smooth motion for the seconds hand on top of impressive accuracy.

I’m easily impressed when it comes to GS movements, as their engineering is amazing across the board. What really gets me is watching the movement go to work as every finite component blends perfectly with the next. 

Wearers get the benefit of a 55-hour power reserve. For those who don’t know, the power reserve is a part of the watch’s reliable performance between windings. The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds per day, and most people would consider this level of accuracy pretty exceptional.

I get pretty excited about the GMT functionality, as I don’t have a watch in my collection that has this feature. It allows for independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the flow of the seconds hand. For those who travel frequently, this can be a nice feature to make sure the watch is always on time.

If you get a chance to look closely, you’ll notice the titanium rotor of the movement has a gold tone to it. This comes from a special anodic oxidation process, giving the rotor a very distinct look.

It’s also important to note that the rotor is skeletonized, which gives you a better view of the decorated movement below it. Once I understood the collaborative performance features of this watch, I had to try it for myself. I’m not necessarily prone to a specific movement, but I do love the amount of engineering, design, and detail that can be marveled at any time you want.

Strap Qualities

I can see how the strap might look pretty basic to most people, but it’s more about the overall qualities that make it stand out. First and foremost, they always sell me on the high-intensity titanium. I’ll always prefer that over stainless steel, as it’s sturdy yet lightweight and undoubtedly beautiful.

Featuring a 19mm band width, it’ll feel pretty uniform around the wrist, and it tapers a bit down to 18mm. This helps to maintain proportion to the case so that one component isn’t taking the spotlight over another. Cohesiveness is a norm in Grand Seiko watches, but you can’t really tell until you try it on for yourself.

When I was able to put on the SBGJ255, it was immediately apparent that it was a great fit. At least for me, I didn’t feel like any adjustments needed to be made. The band is also equipped with screw links, as well as half links for proper sizing. However, a slight downside is that it doesn’t come built with micro-adjustments.

Aside from that, the folding clasp feels sturdy and secure, and it’s built with a seamless safety push-button release. If you simply aren’t a fan of the strap, you can easily swap it out, thanks to the drilled lugs. 

Finding replacement straps for GS watches seems to be a common challenge for me, but I rarely ever want to change in the first place. If you want the true Grand Seiko experience, I think it’s important to keep all of the original components.

Part of the classic look of the strap stems from their choice of polished intermediate links. This contrasts the primary brushed look of the strap, adding a little shine around your entire wrist. Of course, this isn’t overbearing, as Grand Seiko knows exactly how to accent a luxury watch.

How it Feels on the Wrist

Some of this will come down to personal preference, but in my opinion, it’s pretty easy to describe how this watch feels on the wrist. For me, it’s an immediate everyday wear. I can see how the white dial could be reserved for certain occasions, but it isn’t flashy enough to distract from casual outfits.

Although the watch dimensions are fitting for a variety of wrist sizes, it’s still optimal for a particular range. Those who have 6 to 7.5” wrists will have the best experience with the SBGJ255. Once again, with adjustments and a little wiggle room over 7.5”, the timepiece is more than suitable for many common wrist sizes.

I will agree that the thickness of the watch is noticeable. It isn’t something that can be ignored exactly, but it isn’t a detail that affects everyday wear. The watch easily hides behind my wrist cuffs and never catches on the edges due to its dimensions.

In the past, I was actually more inclined to swap straps out for leather, but polished titanium is starting to change that preference. There was a time when I would have thought this watch was too flashy. Now that I have a better understanding of Grand Seiko and their design process, I have immense appreciation for their stance on titanium.

Blending practical functionality and high-end beauty, the SBGJ255 can quickly become your new family heirloom. From my standpoint, the watch is more than viable for professional and casual settings. Overall, the day-to-day experience of wearing the SBGJ255 is more than comfortable and fashionable, all in one.

Pricing and Availability

Any Grand Seiko watch is bound to come with a sizable price tag, but they do range from affordable to expensive. Regarding the SBGJ255, I feel this watch hits a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. You can find the timepiece retailed at $8,500. On the other hand, you can look into pre-owned pricing, which can range from $4,000 to $7,500, depending on various factors.

When you compare this to other GS watches and luxury watches from other brands, the asking price is more than understandable. For me, my price cap is usually $10,000, as that’s a bit hard for me to warrant, but anything underneath that is more than enough.

I plan on keeping mine for quite a long time, considering the fact it’s a limited edition. With these types of watches, you never know how much harder they’ll be able to find as time goes on. Since the SBGJ255 is only a few years old at this point, it’s still pretty easy to source online.

Shopping online is always easy to do, but finding reputable watchmakers and retailers is a different story. The Grand Seiko name speaks for itself, but you want to find a retailer that has experience with the brand and the industry as a whole.

If you’re looking for a retailer that can exceed your expectations, working with Exquisite Timepieces is the only back-end support you need. Not only can you find the SBGJ255 in all its glory, but we will walk you through all of your questions and concerns. Buying a GS watch should be considered a lifelong commitment; finding a retailer that understands this is crucial.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko may have a long line of watches and collections, but you don’t want to miss out on the SBGJ255 55th anniversary limited edition. These aren’t always common, and I’d argue this watch specifically is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. GS leans heavily into its heritage, and it can be seen and felt in every detail of the SBGJ255.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. Whether you have questions regarding the SBGJ255 or another design, we’re more than happy to provide the guidance you’re looking for.

I have long marveled at Grand Seiko watches. Since the brand seized the opportunity of independence, and indeed before that too, its designs always had the innate ability to catch the attention of collectors worldwide. Long may that continue. 

The Japanese brand, with roots firmly anchored in Iwate soil, has never taken its foot off the gas, whether in the form of new movements, dial patterns, or designs inspired by all things whimsical, wild, and wonderful. 

One watch that deserves some serious consideration (if you’re looking for a solid, classic, and reliable daily beater) is the Grand Seiko SBGN023. Bear with me while I purify my thoughts a little further…

An Overview of the Grand Seiko SGBN023

The Grand Seiko SGN023 belongs to the company’s Sport Collection and forms part of its rich and expansive tapestry of horological creations. Here, like with all other Grand Seiko watch families, philosophical craftsmanship is woven into the cultural fabric of the collection, with designs that honor “The Nature of Time” through its concept of “Takumi”. 

The Sport collection is home to models powered by the legendary Spring Drive revelation, chronographs, and, of course, GMT complications. The SBGN023 falls into the latter category – a complication primed for those who like to travel frequently but also those who just love the style and functionality of the feature.

Some of the model’s key features include an 18k gold lion logo, emblazoned onto the back of the case, a distinctive arrow-tipped GMT hand in yellowy-gold for tracking an additional time zone, and a thermocompensated quartz movement for unparalleled accuracy. 

Stick with me as I attempt to delve into these features in more detail. I’ll also share my thoughts on how this watch will wear, how it keeps time, and how it imbues classic style when worn.

140 Years of Seiko History

Even relatively young brands will try to play into the “history” element of their timepieces. Can you blame them? History sells. Stories, indeed, sell. They give meaning to a timepiece and provide the basis for an interesting conversation starter (it certainly beats entertaining small talk). 

Even if a brand only dates back a few years, it will always try to sell a watch with a bit of a story. Where Grand Seiko is concerned, however, history really does mean just that. It has 140 years of the stuff, having been conceptualized at Suwa Seikosha, home of the world-famous Seiko. Its first watch arrived in 1961, but Seiko’s rich legacy reaches back much further than that.

You see, the founder of Seiko, Kintarō Hattori, had been holding onto one singular vision. To develop something more refined and more exquisite than the affordable, well-built designs that Seiko became so renowned for. As good as they were, Hattori wanted more. He believed that one day, his future Grand Seiko concept would epitomize Japanese craftsmanship. And, so it did.

Let’s turn the calendar pages back to the year of 1960. It was a decade of innovation, liberation, and a time when people were obsessed with precision. The first Grand Seiko didn’t just mark the release of a new watch, it was a manifestation of a long-nurtured dream. It marked the beginning of a very transformative era in watchmaking. 

For brands like itself, it was an era of horological advancements and an opportunity for Grand Seiko to prove to the world what it could bring to the table, both in terms of refined precision and technical prowess. Thus, 140 years on from the founding of Seiko, watches like the SBGN023 are still paying homage to these very foundations. 

The limited-edition watch, exclusive to 2,021 pieces, nods to the year of its release (2021) and embodies, in the purest of ways, Hattori’s motto; “Always one step ahead of the rest”.

The Case

Allow me to quickly shun the notion that only the Germans and the Swiss can manufacture timepieces to first-class standards. It is simply not the case. While Seiko may manufacture some very accessible quartz watches (which offer a lot of bang for your buck!), Grand Seiko crafts superlative designs that often only elicit praise from those who understand the company and its origins.

Grand Seiko has gained unequivocal respect from those of a non-judgemental standpoint. Those who don’t confuse the two brands as being the same thing. The reality is that Grand Seiko has worked hard to stand tall on its own and has proudly stepped out of the shadow of its much larger sibling quite some years ago. 

The two should not be confused – not because either one is superior to the other. Moreover, they both compete in totally different leagues. Credit, therefore, should be given to both respective brands, regardless of how they compare to one another.

On that point, it is remarkably easy to identify the SBGN023 as a Grand Seiko watch, just from the look of the case alone. In previous reviews, I have gone into great depth on the signature Zaratsu polish that Grand Seiko artisans apply to the brand’s designs. 

Where watches from the Sport Collection are concerned, Zaratsu favors the angular architecture of the case, coaxing out the hairline finishes and sharp, ridge-like lines that form its prominent sporty nature. The interplay between light and shadow is always what has me gazing into the perfect contours of a Grand Seiko case for hours.

Flip the case over, and more details reveal themselves. The 18k gold lion emblem is one of my favorite features of the Sport Collection, and there it is, in all its glory, concealing yet another horological feat by way of the thermocompensated quartz movement. 

The movement sits behind a caseback equipped with 200-meter water resistance, keeping perfect time within an anti-magnetic construction. The case also features a 4 o’clock GS-engraved screw-down to avoid snagging and a fixed bezel adorned with legible Arabic numerals in a glossy ceramic inlay for keeping track of an additional time zone.

The Dial

There are several elements that I really like about the dial of this GS watch. Radiating out from the center of the dial is a subtly ribbed pattern, reaching right out to the periphery. What makes this feature particularly special is that you don’t always see it. 

Should you catch the dial under the right angle of light, the SBGN023 rewards you with a sunburst-like effect, which illuminates pockets of the display that you don’t always get to appreciate. I guess what really resonates with me is the idea that the design keeps on giving, even after that initial “honeymoon” period.

The use of yellow-gold accents on the dial is also really clever because (and here’s something else that may surprise you) the surface they sit on isn’t black. It’s a really rich brown shade that, once again, can trick you into thinking you’re looking at something that you’re not. Seldom have I seen brown and yellow-gold nuances used in this way in a watch before, and I’m here for it.

The golden yellow tones continue with the familiar GS logo at 12 o’clock and in the daytime hours of the GMT watch’s 24-hour rehaut. The remainder of the 24-hour track is dark to signify the nighttime hours. Having spent many, many years discussing watch features with connoisseurs, I have come to realize that a dislike of the 4:30 date is a very common theme. 

In this design, GS chooses the 4 o’clock location for its date aperture. It’s a decision that I feel works pretty well, but I can also appreciate that a sense of balance is lost when a manufacturer does this. A nice addition (since many GS watches don’t feature it) is the well-lumed hour markers and hands that guide the way to clear, legible timekeeping in the dark.

The Movement

Let’s be real for a second: quartz snobbery is never going to go away. Many connoisseurs feel that a mechanical is simply more authentic than a quartz, but there are bad quartz movements and good, and Grand Seiko certainly sits in the latter field. 

In many cases, deciding between a mechanical and a quartz is not all that tough a task. No one should feel it’s about proving how much you know about horology, but mechanical movements do tend to be the favored one of the two. 

But the thermocompensated quartz sitting inside this watch is certainly worth a mention here because even though quartz, in general, offers better accuracy than a mechanical movement, this type of quartz is even more superior to the standard type. With an accuracy of – /+ 10 seconds per year, the Grand Seiko SBGN023 is likely the most accurate thing you’ll have in your collection. 

If you’re not familiar with thermocompensated quartz movements, they work in a very similar way to standard quartz movements. Still, there are a few key differences that make the performance and accuracy of the thermocompensated variety more reliable and superior.

Piezoelectric energy is what keeps a watch running, and the vibration of the quartz crystal is what keeps a watch so accurate (more accurate than a mechanical movement). A quartz crystal vibrates a staggering total of 32,768 every second of the day. The electronics of the quartz movement unlock the power generated by the quartz crystal in the same way that an escape lever does in a mechanical watch.

Now, thermocompensated cuts appear on some quartz crystals, which reduce temperature fluctuations that could otherwise affect how the quartz operates inside the watch. Quartz movements tend to have tuning fork-shaped cuts in the crystal, which, over the years, has worked well to carry the tradition of quartz watchmaking through to present-day wristwatches. 

However, thermocompensated quartz movements take more precision to cut, and they maintain a nice equilibrium inside the watch, regulating and maintaining a harmonious performance deep at the heart of the movement.

What this achieves is a situation where thermodynamic pressure is regulated, and the electric signals inside the watch generally don’t fall victim to the negative effect that external conditions and changing environmental temperatures could otherwise have on them. 

While Japanese brands like Citizen, Seiko, and Grand Seiko are the heavy hitters in the field of thermocompensated quartz watches, we’re gradually seeing more companies expand their offerings within this category. For some brands, this type of quartz movement is their way of competing on the same level as high-end mechanical movement manufacturers do. 

The 9F Quartz series is one of the most refined and supreme of all the Grand Seiko quartz movements. Within this movement family is the Calibre 9F86, which debuted in 2018, offering a GMT function. The distinctive and graceful presence of the smoothly operating second hand is one key giveaway of the movement. It is perfectly controlled thanks to the movement’s backlash auto-adjust mechanism. 

This works like a hairspring, resisting the second hand’s counterbalance, offering stabilization as it ticks. Without a shudder or even a jolt, this hand travels across the dial of the SBGN023 effortlessly, day and night, without relying on the movement of your wrist or requiring manual winding. 

The mechanical movement has a high torque and uses little energy despite its impressive accuracy. Its Twin Pulse Control Motor propels the heavy hands around the dial with ease, making for a particularly pleasing visual experience.

The Strap

Grand Seiko fits the SBNG023 watch on a tapering 20mm Oyster-like bracelet crafted from stainless steel. I mention this because a slight tapering can, in fact, enable a watch to appear and feel smaller on the wrist. 

This is a good thing if your wrists tend to measure on the small side. Generally speaking, a wrist measuring a diameter of 6 inches or more can carry a 40mm watch without a problem, but straight bracelet designs certainly make a watch feel bigger and more masculine.

The 20mm stainless steel bracelet on this watch tapers down to a nice 18mm diameter at the clasp end, where it meets with a GS-engraved clasp executed in a mix of brushed and polished finishes. 

If you tend to remove your watch for various tasks throughout the day, you’ll appreciate how easy the clasp is to manipulate under the fingertips. The twin trigger is functional and practical, but unfortunately, this watch has no micro-adjustment mechanism. Perhaps if there was one thing to change about the SBGN023, this would be it.

On the upside, you do get half links for accurate sizing, which are afforded by slot screws on either side of the bracelet. So, if you do need to get this bracelet altered, you’re guaranteed to get a snug fit. 

The overall execution of the bracelet, including the brushed and polished links, is done to a high level, as one would expect of any Grand Seiko watch. The bracelet tolerance, craftsmanship, finishes, flexibility, and overall build quality are exceptional.

How It Wears

It’s important to note that Grand Seiko doesn’t make watches simply for them to be reduced to mere functional instruments. Wearing one of these Japanese watches is more a lifestyle choice rather than a practical necessity. The SGBN023 is no exception to this rule. It wears as you’d expect any Grand Seiko to wear: comfortably and ergonomically, but it’s also absolutely stylish.

This GMT watch has some heft to it. Its case is undeniably beefy when you compare it to those from, say, the Elegance Collection. But you have to remember that this is intended as a sports watch. The fact that it’s classic enough to wear on dressier occasions is just an added bonus. 

First and foremost, the watch is designed to face all testing conditions and external environments. You’ll notice that the lugs are truncated, and the case is more angular. The bracelet certainly adds some weight to the model, but you have options to switch that out for something more lightweight if you want to.

In terms of basic dimensions, the watch will still appeal to those with smaller-than-average wrists, and that’s because it has a case diameter of 40mm. Having said that, its lug-to-lug length measures 46.5mm, and its case depth measures 13.1mm, so it’s certainly not the slimmest of GS GMTs.

The Price

Now, it’s time to address the elephant in the room. When the SBGN023 was first unveiled, it disgruntled many collectors. The price tag seemed steep for a quartz watch. As I divulged earlier, however, this is not just any quartz movement. The Quartz 9F is a special variation, reflecting the highest deity of the quartz breed. For that, you would expect to pay a price on par with any mechanical watch. 

And when you weigh up the fact that it has a guaranteed accuracy of -/+ 10 seconds per year, the price of this watch doesn’t seem so far-fetched after all. The watch currently retails for $5,450 at authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces, which is more than reasonable in my humble opinion.

The Takeaway 

The Grand Seiko SBGN023 is a thing of beauty. Imbued with sportiness and coupled with a travel-friendly GMT function, you could want for nothing more than what this neat 40mm package offers. Inside the watch is not just any quartz movement but a thermocompensated one. 

Equipped with an innovative regulating switch, the movement can be adjusted and compensated if it ever operates too slow or too fast. It’s a superior level of quartz timekeeping that promises – /+ 10 seconds per year, giving it unbeatable accuracy and, more than likely, rivaling anything else you’ll ever have in your collection. Suffice it to say, the movement alone is an interesting proposition, owing to its collectability.

What appeals to me more than anything, however, is the bread and butter basics of every grand Seiko watch: a case that wears easily on the average-sized wrist, a profound level of case finishing for its price point, and a helping of color here and there.

Wherever Grand Seiko is concerned, there is never any doubt of originality. Indeed, no plagiarism here – the brand has worked hard to achieve an identity of its own, stepping away from the Seiko name and forging a reputation that speaks of quality craftsmanship and high-end finishes. Moreover, the crisp dial of the SBGN023 is eminently legible, with details that coalesce with one another tastefully. 

This is a watch that I feel reigns supreme for its classic beauty and timeless case shape. For me – zero questions asked on why any collector would opt for this quartz GS watch over any mechanical one. The SBGN023 is easy on the eye, super accurate, and comfortable enough to do travel, sport, and life with.