Category: Watch Reviews

Of all the reasons to be enamored with the mechanical marvels on our wrists, one of the most enduring is the story! These stories come in many forms on a wristwatch, whether it is the historical provenance of a significant timepiece or just the history of the brand in general. 

I am an absolute sucker for watches that play into these stories and can offer that historical feel but in a fancy modern execution (Black Bay 58 is my current daily driver). As much as I love the look of these timepieces, I oftentimes struggle to build a real connection, and they find themselves on the chopping block. So what gives?

Turns out the stories a marketing department can tell are only part of the picture. When I am looking for a story, I am looking for more. I am looking for the story of the exact watch. Every scratch and ding helps to tell the story that gives these watches a unique history, one that you can’t just read about in a watch review. Sometimes you need to pick the watch up and let it speak to you.

When Is a Watch Considered Vintage?

It is true that even modern watches can pick up a history of their own, some faster than others depending on the clumsiness of the wearer. As scratched as they may be, these modern watches don’t carry the same level of charm as ones that we would consider vintage. For a watch to be considered vintage, I use the guideline of 40-70 years.

For some products, that may seem like an eternity, but considering the lifecycle of a properly maintained wristwatch, there is still plenty of tread left on the tire, even at this age. Ultimately, you want enough time to have passed for the trends to come back into fashion but not so much time that they seem completely antiquated.

Should You Buy a Vintage Watch?

With all the great modern options available to consumers, should you really purchase a vintage watch? Absolutely yes! There are 2 main reasons everyone should own at least one vintage watch throughout their collecting journey.

The first reason is financial. The world of vintage watches is some of the most fun you can have in this hobby for a relatively low amount of money. There are several brands that can be acquired in the vintage market that cost less than a replacement strap for a current example from the same brand.

The second and more sentimental reason comes back to history. Some things you just need to hold in your hand to appreciate, and watchmaking is a great example. To appreciate how perfectly machined your new Omega Aqua Terra is, you need to hold an Omega Seamaster from the early 1950s.

You can immediately notice the resemblance, but the glacial improvement in quality over 70 years has resulted in a product that doesn’t feel the same in hand. Both are incredible and offer the wearer a unique experience, but they are not the same.

Vintage Watch Buying Guide

Despite the unmatched coolness of a vintage watch, there are several reasons you should pump the brakes before immediately pulling the trigger. The world of vintage watches is filled with far more landmines than diamonds in the rough.

If you’re new to vintage watches, take a look at a previous article I wrote that references my 3 guidelines for purchasing a vintage watch. If you’re watching the deal of a lifetime auction count down and don’t have time to read that article, here are the cliff notes. Research is key! Pick a reference and learn everything you can about it!

The worst thing you can do is start learning about the reference once you have already made a purchase. Cheap does not equal good. Rarely is the lowest price you can find for a reference the best value. Don’t be afraid to pay tomorrow’s price today if the watch comes from a trustworthy seller or a better example. 

Finally, condition is everything. When it comes to vintage watches, the smallest variance in condition can swing the price by hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. Be patient and get the best example of the watch you are looking for.

Those lessons took years to learn and seconds to read! Do yourself a favor and use them! Now that we have a feel for what a vintage watch is and what to look for when purchasing one, let’s take a look at 20 of the best vintage watches, from affordable to luxury. 

This list will be broken down into several price categories featuring examples for every budget. To keep things interesting, I have only included 1 example from each brand. Kick back, grab a coffee, and get your flux capacitor ready; we’re going back in time and exploring 20 of the best vintage watches you can buy!

Best Vintage Watches Under $1000

Hamilton Thin-O-Matic

Kicking off our list is one of two classic American watch companies on this list. From the early 1800s through the 1970s, Hamilton was one of the most prolific watchmakers producing timepieces on American soil. The 1960s would see them make several timeless designs, none more timeless than the Thin-O-Matic.

The Thin-O-Matic earned its name with its thin case design and automatic winding capability, both made possible by their adoption of the Micro-Rotor developed by Buren. These watches come in several varieties but are mostly available in 33-35mm cases made of stainless steel, gold filled, or 10K gold. 

The dials tend to lean toward a minimal design but share one detail that helps them stand apart. The “Thin-O-Matic” logo on these utilizes some of the best fonts I have seen on any watch dial. Depending on the style and condition, these watches will set you back anywhere from $300-$800. Given the brand history, movement technology, and timeless design, this price is an absolute bargain!

Ball Trainmaster

The second watchmaker on this list from the United States is none other than the Ball Watch Company. Founded by Webb C. Ball in 1891 after the famous Kipton railroad disaster, Ball initially specialized in very accurate pocket watches and later transitioned into wristwatches.

The most classic example of this transition comes in the form of the Ball Trainmaster. A white enamel dial with black Arabic numerals and red second hand became the distinct look of a Ball Official Railroad Trainmaster. What would change in these models, however, was the case shape and material. 

Despite being available in several case materials and shapes, the 34mm stainless steel with twisted lugs is my favorite of the bunch. Coming in at anywhere from $300-$800, these watches represent a tremendous value for a piece of American railroad and watchmaking history.

Longines Flagship

Before their acquisition by the now SWATCH group, Longines was a luxury watch brand often compared to the likes of Rolex and Omega. Despite their recent increase in popularity, they now comfortably occupy a position beneath both of these prestigious brands in the luxury hierarchy. 

Thankfully for us collectors, nobody told their vintage models that they are no longer the prestigious pieces they once were. Their vintage timepieces are every bit the luxury watch of a Rolex or Omega from the equivalent time period.

One example of their luxury vintage watches is the Longines Flagship. First introduced in 1957, the Longines Flagship shares a lot of DNA with other luxury watches of that time. The 33-35mm case size and simple dial with dauphine style hands could come to describe any multitude of brands producing watches during the late 1950s and early 1960s. 

The difference between these models is in the details. From the quality of the manual wind 30LS in-house movement to the impeccable finish on the sunray dial with complementing hands and markers, this watch exudes class and quality. 

If you are looking for a vintage timepiece that has the hallmarks of the more expensive luxury brands but comes in at around $500-$1000 instead of the $2000-$5000 mark, the Longines Flagship is a great place to start your search.

Vulcain Cricket

Few brands have been featured on the wrists of as many influential people as Vulcain. Their timepieces have been seen on the wrist of almost every American President since 1953, when the first Vulcain Cricket was gifted to President Harry Truman.

Since then, the tradition of receiving a Cricket watch as US President has become an honorary tradition, even resulting in the nickname of the Cricket as the “Presidents Watch”. What made the Vulcain Cricket so special? The alarm feature helped to set this watch apart from other timepieces of the day.

Featuring a 33mm case dimension and hand-winding caliber 120 movement from Vulcain, these watches didn’t necessarily look too different from their less complicated competition. My favorite feature of these iconic timepieces is that you don’t need to be a president or even get paid like one to have it occupy a space in your watch box. 

Coming in at a price of $500-$1000, these watches offer a great history and tremendous value in the vintage watch market.

Zodiac Seawolf

In 1953 the world of watches was absolutely flipped on its head. The Rolex Submariner was introduced to the masses, garnering mainstream appeal for a complication first seen on the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms a year previous. The dive bezel fundamentally changed the watch market. 

Although Rolex is synonymous with this feature, they weren’t the first to introduce it, nor were they the only manufacturer to introduce one in 1953. The Zodiac Seawolf was introduced alongside the Rolex Submariner in 1953 and offered something more compelling for your everyday underwater explorer.

Where original examples of the Rolex Submariner can cost as much as a new luxury vehicle, the early examples of the Zodiac Seawolf can be found for anywhere between $500-$1000, depending on the condition.

These watches were a little smaller, coming in at 35mm, and featured fiction fit brass coated bezels, but the functionality was much the same as the Rolex. If you are willing to compromise on the size and wait for a good example without a worn-out or refinished bezel, these watches deserve the same level of dive watch street cred as the almighty crown.

Best Vintage Watches Under $5000

Omega Constellation 168.005

Stepping up to the under $5000 price mark, you start to see an increase in brand equity. In terms of mainstream luxury watch brands, few carry as much cache as Omega. They have a history of producing some of the most iconic timepieces and have great vintage pieces that could fall under any of the price categories available on this list.

At the crossroads of quality and price is the Omega Constellation, specifically with the “pie pan” dial and “dog leg” lugs (you’ve got to love the ways us watch enthusiasts find to describe a timepiece). The Omega Constellation is a line of watches produced by Omega beginning in 1952 and is still in production, albeit with a completely different design.

These watches were the premium offering from Omega during their initial run and have come to represent the very best in terms of construction and precision from Omega in their heyday. The reference number 168.005 was prevalent in the 1960s and, in my opinion, utilizes the very best design elements from this product line’s illustrious history.

The angular facets on the “pie pan” dial help to give this watch dimension and personality. The “dog leg” lug design compliments the angular dial while offering a more visually interesting appearance than a straight lug design. 

Coming in at a price of $1500-$3500, these watches are a considerable price increase from the similarly designed Seamaster but given their design and chronometer-grade movements are well worth the extra investment.

Breitling Navitimer 806

Another luxury brand that has managed to transcend the watch market into pop culture is Breitling. Their celebrity brand ambassadors, such as John Travolta and Brad Pitt, have ensured that their timepieces have remained at the forefront of the general public’s mind when it comes to luxury timepieces.

There are several iconic models they have to their credit, but there is no doubt that the Navitimer is the show pony of the brand. The 7806 Breitling Navitimer is a vintage example from the 1970s that provides the function and design that have helped this timepiece stand the test of time.

Breitling, of late, has been slowly transitioning away from the oversized designs of the early 2000s and back toward the classic aesthetic that this model evokes. While not diminutive, the 41mm case size is a welcomed size for a collection that regularly pushes 44mm+.

The manual winding Valjoux 7740 is technically a step down from the modern B-01 in-house automatic movements Breitling uses today but is unmistakably vintage and beautifully designed. Starting at $4500, these vintage examples offer a great entryway into the Breitling Navitimer, with an overall aesthetic in line with the current brand’s direction.

International Watch Company (IWC) Caliber 89

Many of the watches on this list are here because of the design or function they provide their end user. Although several models from the International Watch Company could fall into that category, it is their mastery of the simple 3 handed time-only movement in the 1950s that provides the best value for those hunting for a vintage watch from the brand.

The Caliber 89 was originally developed in 1946 and was utilized through the 1960s. These watches are simple dress watches in design, featuring a 35mm stainless steel or gold case, with thin hands and central seconds.

The beautiful script of the brand’s name and city of origin was often the only writing on the dial. The Caliber 89 movement itself was an overengineered 17 jewel manually wound movement ticking away at 18000 beats per hour.

The movement featured a tasteful finish and easy serviceability to please any watchmaker lucky enough to open one up. These watches can be found between $1500-$5000, depending on the case material. If you’re looking for a watch with a simple movement that got it right the first time, this is the watch for you. 

Doxa Sub 300t

In terms of luxury prestige, Doxa is not often a brand that comes to mind for many watch enthusiasts. They make some excellent watches but fall more comfortably in the premium tool watch category. Likewise, their vintage timepieces fall into a similar category as premium tool watches.

Because of their incredible functionality and iconic dive watch history, many of their vintage pieces have crossed into the luxury price range. Despite dating back to 1889, Doxa, as many of us recognize it, really began in 1967 with the release of their iconic Sub 300t dive watch.

This watch was different from anything else on the market and was aimed directly at the diving community. The bright colors helped with visibility underwater, while the no-decompression scale helped divers calculate safe descents with a click of a bezel. 

It wasn’t long before Jacques Cousteau, the grandfather of modern diving, chose Doxa as his team’s watch to accompany them as they explored undersea. The watch itself features a 42mm stainless steel case and comes in a variety of colors, my favorite being the Professional orange. 

If you are looking for a vintage dive watch with an incredible history but doesn’t look like every other one on the market for between $3000-$5000, the Doxa Sub 300t is a great option.

Universal Geneve Polerouter

Few brands have seen the spike in popularity with their vintage timepieces as Universal Geneve. They have some of the most revered chronographs to their credit while also producing the watch we will mention here, the Polerouter.

Perhaps, the greatest achievement of this brand is that much of its success has occurred recently, while the company can only be described as a shell of its former self. The Polerouter began production in 1954 to celebrate flights between Los Angeles and Europe that could now fly directly over the north pole to save several hours of flight time.

These watches provided a degree of anti-magnetism while packaged in an elegant design that evoked the class and sophistication of flying during the golden era. The Polerouter featured a 35mm case with twisted lugs and a textured dial ring. The later versions featured micro-rotor movements that helped to keep the profile slim while still offering the functionality of an automatic movement.

Perhaps the greatest part of the Polerouter’s history for watch nerds is that it was designed by a young Gerald Genta (I think he went on to create a couple of other iconic pieces, if memory serves!). If you’re looking for a watch with an interesting history, both mechanically and aesthetically, the Universal Geneve Polerouter for $2000-$4000 is as good as it gets.

Best Vintage Watches Under $10,000

Seiko Hi-Beat Diver 6159-7000

Whether vintage or modern, Seiko is a brand known best for its hits on the more affordable side of the spectrum. They have beautiful examples from their Seiko 5, Lord Matic, and King Seiko lines that could build a beautiful collection by themselves. In the 1960s, Seiko became a fundamentally different brand from what it was during the 1950s. 

The main reason for that transformation was the introduction of their iconic dive watches. There is a lot of fanfare, deservedly so, for the 62 MAS, and as much as I love this watch, I had to choose another model from their iconic archive for this list.

The 6159-7000 series Seiko Hi-Beat diver is the watch that really laid the groundwork for Seiko to become the dive watch powerhouse that it is today. Many of the design elements that we see in Seiko’s current lineup are present here with this model. The sharp edges and compact case design help this larger-sized 44mm watch fit great on even smaller wrist sizes. 

At roughly $6000-$8000, the 6159-7000 Hi-Beat Diver carries a premium fit and finish to match the premium price. If you are looking for the watch that set the foundation for some of our favorite Seiko dive watches today, the Hi-Beat diver is the one you’re looking for.

Enicar Sherpa Graph

One of the most exciting parts of exploring vintage watches is discovering brands no longer in production. One of the best examples of this discovery for me has been with Enicar. Despite being widely unknown outside select watch enthusiast circles, they designed some of the most beautiful tool watches of the golden era.

Unlike most of the now-defunct brands, however, Enicar has an impressive collector community, and their timepieces have become highly sought after. If I am looking for the watch that really grabs my attention from the brand, I have to pick the Enicar Sherpa Graph.

This 40mm stainless steel chronograph is one of the most balanced and aesthetically pleasing dials I have ever seen. The internal tachymeter scale and contrasting sub-dials give this watch a balanced and timeless design. However, the pops of color and fun logo take this watch to another level. 

These watches are powered by the infamous Valjoux 72 and can be found for $6000-$9000 (just a little cheaper than the more famous Rolex Newman Daytona that utilizes this same movement). If you are looking for a vintage chronograph with one of the best designs available, the Enicar Sherpa Graph is a great option for you.

Jaeger LeCoultre E2644 Chronograph

You don’t get the moniker of “the watchmaker’s watchmaker” by accident. Jaeger Lecoultre is a prestigious brand with several mechanical innovations under its belt. Despite having designed movements for the most luxurious Swiss watchmakers, some of their namesake watches, especially those not named Reverso, can fall into the category of under-appreciated. 

I hesitate to call the brand under-appreciated overall, but with a historical archive as impressive as Jaeger LeCoultre, it is almost impossible not to have some models that slip through the cracks. The Jaeger Lecoultre E2644 Chronograph is another Valjoux 72 powered chronograph that hasn’t yet seen the unobtainable pricing of other watches using this movement.

Coming in at a price of $5000-$7500, this watch features a 35mm case and a 3-dial layout. Despite being considered small by today’s standards, the chronograph pushers will help this watch provide a more suitable wrist presence. 

My favorite aspect of this timepiece is the fun use of color, particularly the fume blue dials that help give this watch a unique personality. If you are looking for an under-the-radar vintage watch from Jaeger Lecoultre, the E2644 Chronograph is the one to go with.

Heuer Carrera 2447

While we are on a roll with vintage chronographs, we might as well look at one of the brands most associated with the complication, Heuer. Finding their fame with their association in motorsports, it is no surprise that Heuer would invest heavily in the chronograph complication.

They have produced several iconic timepieces utilizing the feature, but there has always been one that stands above the rest, in my opinion. The Heuer Carrera, reference number 2447, is about as perfect of a watch as you will find. They feature the Valjoux 72 chronograph movement and a 36mm stainless steel case.

The watch utilizes a 3-sub dial design and has a very balanced dial. These watches are perhaps the second most famous watch to utilize this movement, behind the Rolex and have continued to rise in popularity because of it. 

As of the beginning of 2023, these watches can be found starting at just under $10,000, but I don’t expect that to be the case forever. There are plenty of examples that exceed this amount, but if you are patient and willing to put in some work, you can get this iconic model for a price that can feel like a downright steal when compared to the competition.

Tudor Submariner 94110

When looking into vintage watches, it is hard to overlook the popularity of the Rolex Submariner. The design has changed gradually throughout the years, allowing the aesthetic to remain virtually the same while the user experience is completely different.

Unfortunately for those of us without DuckTales money, a vintage Rolex Submariner is unlikely to happen. There is, however, another vintage Submariner available, and it comes from Rolex’s sister brand Tudor. The brand ethos of Tudor to produce lower-cost quality watches utilizing Rolex parts and design with stock movements has paid dividends for vintage watch lovers everywhere.

The 40mm Tudor Submariner 94110 is a beautiful stainless steel dive watch with a very similar design to a Rolex Submariner but featuring the iconic Snowflake hands.  There is something so pleasing about the square indices and Snowflake hands that the modern Black Bay or Pelagos just can’t compete with.

These watches will set you back roughly $7500-$10000 but represent a great value when compared to their sister brand Rolex. If you’re looking for a Submariner with a unique story and design, the Tudor Submariner 94110 is the one that I would go with.

Best Vintage Watches Over $10,000

Zenith El Primero A386

Here is the point in this list where things get a little crazy! To kick us off for our over $10,000 budget is a brand that is used to being first (just don’t ask Seiko), and that is Zenith. The brand most famous for its automatic chronograph known as the El Primero, Zenith is a premium luxury brand.

The El Primero line of chronograph watches is still the brand’s staple today, so let’s look at the model that has inspired many of the watches available today. The Zenith El Primero A386 is a 38mm stainless-steel watch featuring the high-beat automatic El Primero chronograph movement.

This movement has gone on to power several prestigious watchmakers, such as Rolex, with their Daytona model before going in-house. As much as I love this watch’s mechanics, it’s not the only reason it is on this list.

The aesthetics of the tri-color dial layout are really what separates this watch from the competition. Whether you are a movement aficionado or just someone who appreciates beautiful design, for $12500-$15000, this is one of the best vintage chronographs that money can buy. 

Rolex Explorer 1016

It was only a matter of time before Rolex made the list. The watch I went with is not the most expensive or the rarest vintage Rolex I could have put on this list, but simply the one with which I connect the most. Based on its surge in popularity over the last 10 years, it’s safe to say that I am not the only one that feels this way.

The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a simple field watch housed in a 36mm case and powered by an automatic Rolex in-house movement. This watch saw the largest production period of any Rolex model spanning 40 years with only very subtle changes. The painted 3-6-9 dial has become so synonymous with this watch that it is now referred to as an “Explorer” dial. 

Given the large production run and the fact that Rolex collectors are willing to pay astronomical prices for the most minute details, this watch will set you back anywhere from $10000-$25000+. It may not be the rarest or most sought-after from the brand, but If I won the lottery today, it would be the first watch I would drop my money on (certainly not the last, though).

Vacheron Constantin 222

The 1970s were a pivotal time of transformation for the watch industry. The increased pressure from Japan and their quartz technology began to filter out any brand pausing long enough to take a breath. In contrast, the most prestigious watchmakers of the time began to dabble in a completely new market, the stainless-steel luxury sports watch.

It’s hard to believe that luxury and stainless steel had not really crossed paths prior to this period. Although several of these models are available, let’s look at one that often gets overlooked. The Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel is an integrated bracelet sports watch that, despite having some inspiration from industry competitors Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, has a very unique look.

The 37mm case was considered “Jumbo” for the time period but allows this watch to be worn today in almost any situation. The distinct knurled bezel and hallmark imprinted insignia in the case help to differentiate this watch from the competition while also playing into the watch’s sportier vibes. 

Powered by a JLC 920, also known as the VC 1121 movement, this watch is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. Although currently not in production outside of a few re-releases, the 222 gave direct inspiration to their current sports watch, the Overseas. If you are looking for a timepiece with a distinct design from a Holy Trinity brand, the Vacheron Constantin 222, for $20,000+, is a great watch to consider.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700

When looking into iconic vintage watches, it is hard to overlook the significance of Gerald Genta. His designs helped to create an entire watch genre, not to mention help save the Swiss luxury watch industry from the impending threat of the “Quartz Crisis”.

Despite having several iconic models to his credit, some already appearing on this list, let’s look at perhaps his most hyped watch of all time. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 is the original version of one of the most influential watches of all time. This Nautilus remains aesthetically very similar today to the original released in 1976.

The integrated stainless steel bracelet and symmetrical crown guard design have become the signature attributes of this watch.  The movement powering this watch is the 28-255C self-winding, which is based on the same JLC 920 movement that Vacheron Constantin used for their 222 line.

The 42mm stainless steel case with the horizontally striped dial looks as timeless today as it did when it was first released. If you are looking for a truly iconic watch design and can afford the eye-watering $200,000+, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700 will be hard to beat.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST

I bet you couldn’t see this one coming. We are wrapping up this list with the third member of the enthusiasts crowned “Holy Trinity”, none other than Audemars Piguet. There are several vintage models that would meet the criteria for this list, but given some of my previous picks, I can’t overlook the original stainless-steel luxury sports watch designed by Gerald Genta.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST is the watch that changed it all in 1972! It inspired 2 of the other watches on this list that I would purchase if money was no object. As much as I love the 222 and the Nautilus, the Royal Oak has the most purposeful design of the bunch.

The 39mm stainless steel octagonal case with an integrated bracelet is as tied to the Audemars Piguet brand as the name itself. The watch is powered by the caliber AP 2121, once again based on the JLC 920 movement (I guess that whole “watchmaker’s watchmaker” thing is more than just a marketing gimmick, after all). If you are looking for a watch that truly changed the trajectory of the luxury Swiss watch industry and have $60,000+ to spare, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST is the watch for you!

Conclusion

There it is, 20 of the best vintage watches you can purchase from entry-level to “who actually has that kind of money?”. Some of these options were layups, but I struggled a lot more than I expected putting this list together.

The under $1000 and over $10,000 were a breeze, but those in between budgets can actually be pretty tricky. No matter what your budget allows, following the guidelines discussed earlier will be your key to success. 

Whether you’re looking for an undiscovered gem or tracking down one of the most influential vintage watches of all time, make sure to enjoy the process. There is a lot of potential risk in the vintage watch market, but if you’re patient and well-informed, there can be even more rewards!

Happy watch hunting!

Luxury watches are just that, a luxury. They’re not something you win in a vending machine or buy at the supermarket. It generally takes a sacrifice and serious financial commitment to own one. However, that’s not to say they must be completely out of reach for the typical person. 

While some luxury watches can cost millions of dollars, the rest of us are usually looking for a decent deal. But you don’t have to sacrifice price for quality by any means. That’s why we’ve compiled this list of the best watches under $5000 just for you.

Choosing the Right Watch for Under $5000

Luxury watches under $5000 are by no means less than. In fact, this is the price range where you can find many watches that offer the most bang for your buck. Many of the most popular luxury watch brands can be found in an assortment of styles in this price range. From sports watches to dress watches and beyond, you’ll have no shortage of great options to shop for. That’s why it’s important to know both what you’re looking at and what you’re looking for

What to Look For When Choosing a Watch Under $5000

Picking a watch is a more difficult choice than most might realize. This is especially true if you plan to spend $2,000 or more on a timepiece. While it may be easier to just pick something that appeals to you aesthetically, choosing the right watch goes far deeper than that. 

Sure, the looks of the watch are important, but there’s so much more to consider when making such a purchase. Consider the following important factors when picking which watches under $5000 is the right ones for your needs.

Case Size

When choosing a watch under $5000, perhaps the first thing to consider is the diameter of the case you prefer. Watch sizes tend to change with the times and the style, but your wrist size probably doesn’t. 

So whether you prefer a watch with a more diminutive footprint of 38mm to 40mm or one with significant wrist presence from 40mm to 44mm (or even 46mm), you’ll want to keep case size in mind when choosing. Some of this may be determined by what you plan to use the watch for. For example, if you’re looking for a watch for diving, you may prefer something larger that offers improved visibility.

Watch Purpose

What you plan to use the watch for (aside from just telling time) will also impact which watch under $5000 you choose. Think about your needs, which will help you determine what type of watch you’re looking for.

A dress watch may be the way to go if you need something strictly to wear in a formal office environment. If you plan on doing regular snorkeling or diving, then a 200m+ dive watch should be on your list. 

On the other hand, if you’re strictly hoping to find a “daily driver” that can fit in with almost any occasion, then a basic all-around steel sports watch is what you need. Spend a little time considering your needs for the timepiece, and the answer should come to you relatively quickly.

Complications

Complications refer to the different functions offered by a watch. Do you need to track a second, or perhaps even a third, timezone? If so, then you should be looking for a true GMT watch.

If you want something that allows you to always glance down and get the date, then make sure you find a watch under $5000 that includes a date window. If just the date isn’t enough and you want to know the day of the week as well, seek a watch with a day date compilation. 

In general, the more complicated a watch is, the more expensive it becomes, but that shouldn’t limit your options too much at this price range. Some of the more impressive complications are chronographs, alarms, and moon phases.

Materials

At a price point below $5000, you likely won’t be able to find a watch made of precious metals such as gold or platinum, but that doesn’t mean you don’t have options. The most common material will be stainless steel, a great all-around option. 

However, there are others available to you in this price range. You may like the patina nostalgia of a bronze watch or the lightweight feel of titanium. Do a little research on different materials available at this price point before settling on the best one for your needs.

Build Quality

This is an important factor to consider when deciding on a watch under $5000. If you plan to use your watch for rugged outdoor activities, then you’ll want something that’s built tough and has protections built-in for shock absorption. 

In addition, if you work a lot on a laptop or in another highly magnetized environment, you’ll want to be sure that the watch has a certain amount of anti-magnetic ability. Consider each watch’s strong points in terms of build and think about whether it can stand up to the punishment you plan to put it through.

Brand Reputation

When we mention brand reputation, it’s not much about what that brand represents to you or even those around you. It’s more about the reputation that the watchmaker has built over the course of years, decades, or in the case of some, even centuries.

It takes time to build something special, so a brand that has been around for a very long time tends to engender a certain level of trust in the marketplace. Do your research and determine if there are brands that call to you in terms of their story or their mission.

Perhaps you are all about diving and ocean conservation, so a watch brand that has built its reputation on a history of iconic dive watches may be the one for you. On the other hand, if you want something highly polished with attention to detail, find a brand that touts its impeccable finishing.

Finishing

Finishing refers to the time and effort put into the small details on the watch, as well as the inside. Polishing, brushing, design, and execution of the dial are all finishing details that add a level of sophistication to a watch under $5000. 

What’s more, many watchmakers pay special attention to the finishing on the inside of the watch. Perlage, blue screws, and Geneva stripes are some of the most common finishing touches on the watch movement itself.

Movement

This is the last point in this guide for a reason. For many watch aficionados, the movement is the most important factor in choosing a watch under $5000. The movement is the heart of the watch, and it’s what keeps time. You can get an automatic, quartz, or hand-wound watch in this price range. 

You can also choose between an in-house or third-party movement. An in-house movement is one that was designed by the brand themselves for use in their watch. Many people see this as an advantage over third-party movements, but that’s pure conjecture.

Third-party movements are provided to the brand by an outside company specializing in producing movements for a number of different brands. Whether you opt for a watch with an in-house or third-party movement is up to you, and you’re likely to be happy with any movement you choose, so long as it’s accurate and meets your personal daily needs. 

20 Best Watches Under $5000

Everyday Watches

Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

The Omega Railmaster is an icon and a great option for everyday wear. It has a great mid-sized diameter of 40mm, faux patina markers, and Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12. While originally developed to help engineers keep time on the railroad (hence the name Railmaster), this beautiful watch also has a depth rating of up to 150 meters, which means you’ll be just as comfortable in the ocean as you would on the rails.

Grand Seiko SBGA465

Grand Seiko is renowned for its attention to detail and beautiful dials. This model is just one of many examples of why that reputation is well-deserved. It has a double-domed sapphire crystal, 100 meters of water resistance, and a 40mm diameter.

It also has a tri-fold clasp for extra security, keeping the bracelet in place. The icing on the cake? Grand Seiko’s patented spring drive movement uses a quartz crystal to regulate the mechanical movement, leading to one of the most accurate timepieces you’ll ever own.

Longines Spirit L3.810.1.53.6

Longines is a brand that stands for quality and longevity. This watch is an example of both. The heritage-inspired Spirit model is made from a modern material, titanium, which is lightweight and corrosion-resistant. The watch also has a size of 40mm, a screw-down crown with 100m of water resistance, and a beautiful anthracite dial. This watch looks just as good in the boardroom as it does in the swimming pool.

Omega Aqua Terra 220.10.41.21.03.001

The Omega Aqua Terra has become an iconic symbol of everyday cool. A navy blue model similar to this one was even worn by James Bond in one of his recent films. This model comes in a substantial 41mm, which is large enough to be impressive without being overpowering on the wrist. It includes Omega’s amazing caliber 8900 movement, a 60-hour power reserve, and sapphire crystal to boot.

Panerai Radiomir Base Logo Automatic Black Dial 45 mm Pam 00753

Panerai is an Italian watch brand that goes back over 160 years. This model is great for those who prefer a larger case and extra visibility. At 45mm, it’s an impressive-looking watch. The large Arabic numerals are highly legible in any environment, and the signature Panerai case shape leaves no doubt as to what brand of watch you’re wearing. It also has Incabloc anti-shock protection and 100 meters of water resistance.

Dive Watches

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The Omega Seamaster is synonymous with the ocean, so it’s no surprise it takes the first spot on our list of dive watches. This watch is designed specifically with ocean use in mind. With a highly visible dial, anti-reflective scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, size of 42mm, and impressive Omega coaxial escapement, this watch has everything you could ever want. Add to that 300 meters of water resistance and an easy-to-grip ceramic bezel insert, and you may never buy another watch again.

Tudor Black Bay 58

From almost the first day it was released, the Tudor Black Bay 58 became a ubiquitous diver on the wrists of those in the know. The design language harkens back to some of the original Tudor and Rolex dive watches and looks great in almost any situation.

It has a water resistance of 200 meters, a COSC-certified movement, sapphire crystal, and a solid riveted bracelet. The more traditional size of 39mm gives it an air of class and sophistication not often found in modern dive watches.

Oris Aquis Date Caliber 400

Oris is known for their durable yet affordable dive watches. This gorgeous model has a bright blue sunburst dial, enhanced anti-magnetic capabilities, and a full five-day power reserve. Moreover, this version comes on a supple and comfortable rubber strap with Oris branding running down the side. If you’re looking for a solid dive watch that can handle any punishment you can offer, then this is probably the perfect choice.

Seiko Prospex SLA021

Few brands in the world of dive watches are respected more than Seiko. And their Prospex line takes that even further. This model is appropriate to use for saturation diving because it meets ISO standards for that use. It has a ceramic bezel insert, a screw-down crown with 300 meters of water resistance, and a tri-fold clasp.

It even comes with an additional silicone strap, so you can switch out the stainless steel bracelet without making an additional purchase. This watch is the perfect option for someone who wants a serious dive watch.

Breitling Superocean Automatic 42

For decades, the Breitling Superocean has been a respected dive watch known for being a workhorse. This modern 42mm iteration is no exception to that rule. With its bright yellow, highly legible dial, 300 meters of water resistance, bright white chapter ring around the minute track, and bracelet micro-adjustments, it can handle anything you throw its way. As an added bonus, you’ll have the obvious look of a serious diver no matter where you choose to wear this beauty.

Chronographs

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

When it comes to chronographs, few models are more iconic than the Speedmaster moonwatch. This hand-wound beauty is a watch that screams, “I’m a watch guy, and I know my stuff.” With a surprisingly low-key 42mm size, this watch is both impressive and under the radar at the same time.

The true-to-period Hesalite crystal offers a nice vintage feel, and the impressive manual wind movement keeps those seconds ticking; whether you’re timing your laps around the track or timing a burn to return your crew to earth, this watch gets the job done.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Sometimes affectionately referred to as the “Diet Panda” by those in the watch community, this gorgeous chronograph by Tudor is the more accessible little brother to the coveted Rolex Daytona. It includes a Tudor automatic chronograph movement based on the dependable Breitling B01.

With a perfect diameter of 41mm and 200 meters of water resistance, this is the perfect go-anywhere, do-anything watch. It also looks just about as cool as any watch you can find.

IWC Pilot’s Chrono IW377709

IWC is one of the traditional leaders when it comes to pilot watches. This no-nonsense pilot’s chronograph shows why they’re so revered. With a simple tricompax design and three o’clock day and date windows, it packs a real punch. We also can’t forget that this black beauty includes a highly visible 43mm size and 44 hours of power reserve, making it a great option for just about anyone.

Cartier Roadster Chrono

Cartier is a giant when it comes to the history of watches and watchmaking. The Cartier Roadster Chronograph is evidence of just how good they are. With an interesting case shape and traditional tricompax layout, it shows a refined functionality that you won’t get with any other watch.

It’s a classy workhorse, and it looks amazing with a suit. It has a magnified date window at three o’clock, an automatic self-winding movement, and a hidden butterfly clasp which is also both functional and beautiful.

Tag Heuer Monaco

Want to look as cool as Steve McQueen? Then get yourself a Tag Heuer Monaco. This legendary racing chronograph makes a real statement on the wrist. More impressive than the 39mm diameter may imply, this hefty watch is no shrinking violet.

It makes a real statement on the wrist, and it’s as impressive on the inside as it is on the outside. The Tag Heuer Calliber 11 chronograph movement is an automatic chronograph movement with a 40-hour power reserve. Live like a legend with this beautiful blue masterpiece on your wrist. Talk about arm candy!

Dress Watches

Cartier Tank Solo XL

If you only have one dress watch, then a Cartier Tank model should be it. Designed by Louis Cartier to mimic the overhead view of a military tank, this watch couldn’t be any more classy. The Tank Solo is a quartz version of the ubiquitous dress watch, though it keeps all of the same design language of the original mechanical version. The only real difference is that the bezel has a flat profile when viewed from the side as opposed to the rounded bezel on the traditional model.

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classics Worldtimer

Frederique Constant has built a name for itself as a premium watch brand at a more accessible price point. To do that with a worldtimer watch is no small feat. This impressive watch can keep the time in any timezone you want so you can keep track of loved ones or business dealings in another part of the world. 

The 42mm diameter makes it a great mid-sized watch for anyone, and the 24-hour city disk makes it easy to follow any time zone in the world. It also has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal to keep the watch looking crisp and new even after years of globetrotting around the world.

Glashütte Original Senator Automatic

Glashütte Original is a German watch brand that’s known for making some of the most beautiful dress watches in the world. Their Senator Automatic model is a simple and straightforward execution of a time-tested classic.

With gorgeous roman numerals surrounding the minute track and a stunning bright blue handset, this watch is an amazing addition to any collection. It has an impressive automatic in-house movement that you can see through the display caseback and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The supple alligator leather strap is comfortable and classic.

Blancpain Villeret Ultra Slim

Blancpain is one of those few brands that straddles the sports watch and dress watch world almost seamlessly. While their Fifty Fathoms line is a must-own in the world of dive watches, their Villeret Ultra Slim dress watches have made a name for themselves in the more formal setting.

With diminutive but legible roman numerals, this classic watch is a breeze to read. Also, the gorgeous decorated movement that’s visible through the sapphire caseback is a marvel. Add the ultra-low profile and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and you have yourself just about the perfect dress watch for any formal or semi-formal occasion.

IWC Portofino

The IWC Portofino is the perfect example of the “less is more” design language. This beautiful watch includes stick indices, a sapphire crystal, and a classic date window at three o’clock. It also sports a perfect size of 40mm, a classic black alligator strap, and an automatic self-winding movement. While some may not think of IWC as the first option in dress watches, perhaps they should. This watch is an absolute stunner and gets even more impressive the closer you look.

Conclusion

The world of luxury watches is a truly beautiful one and should be experienced by every watch enthusiast. That’s why I compiled this list of the 20 best watches under $5000, which, in my opinion, represents a great entry point into the luxury watch market.

If you’re interested in picking up a watch from this list, or any luxury watch, consider shopping at Exquisite Timepieces. We are an authorized dealer for many luxury watch brands, and we have a team of experts who is ready to guide you on your first steps into the luxury watch market!

Having the opportunity to travel and see the world is one of the best feelings ever. Imagine, after spending so much time at home and work, you have the time to sit down, relax, and plan your next trip. One of those essential things that you are going to take with you is, no doubt, a trusty timepiece. 

Watches accent everyone’s look and are a customizable part of our wardrobe. Numerous features can be on a watch, like date windows and chronographs. But a good GMT hand is one of the most useful and loved features. Whether you are about to hop on a plane to Bali or an Uber to a local shopping mall, anyone can enjoy a GMT.

GMT hands are greatly coveted due to their functionality and interest. This also used to come with a hefty price tag. GMT functionality used to be reserved for more expensive pieces, and only recently have affordable GMTs surfaced into the market. How affordable, you might ask? 

A quality GMT timepiece could be yours if you’ve got anywhere between five to ten Benjamin Franklins in your wallet. $500 to $1000 is plenty to have a reliable and interesting watch by your side. There are many tempting choices out there, and we’re here to give you a taste of what’s available.

What is a GMT Watch?

Really, what is all the fuss about having a GMT watch? What does GMT even mean? Does it mean something like “Great Modern Timepiece”? Actually, “GMT” is short for Greenwich Mean Time and is a way to calculate when the “zero hour” of time is. This makes it easier to tell the time all around the world by adding or subtracting hours compared to the zero hour. 

For example, here in sunny Florida, the time is 11:00 am. Most of Florida operates under Eastern Standard Time (EST), five hours behind the GMT. Our friends on the West Coast in California operate under Pacific Standard Time (PST), which is eight hours behind the GMT. So, there is a three-hour time difference between us, and it would be 8:00 am in California. 

GMT watches usually have a rotating 24-hour bezel around the watch and another hand that points to a different time zone. With this handy feature, you can know the time in two different places simultaneously.

Brief History of GMT Watches

GMT watches were born out of necessity. With the advancement of the aviation industry, people were more frequently going to different time zones. For pilots especially, keeping track of the time in multiple time zones became important. 

One of the first watches to appear with a GMT hand was the Airman from Glycine, featuring a rotating 24-hour bezel. Rolex followed this with their own GMT-Master offering soon after, and the GMT watch became an invaluable tool.

What to Look For in GMT Watches Under $1000?

One of the most important things to look for in a GMT watch under $1000 is to determine if it actually has a GMT feature. It is very easy for watches to mimic the looks of a true GMT watch with a bi-colored bezel. While visually attractive, it does not perform the same function. 

Another thing to remember is that an authentic GMT watch will have a hand that can be independently set. They will move in one-hour increments independently instead of moving with the normal hour hand when setting the time.

This independent hand is the most ideal for a GMT watch, but being able to track a second time zone is a fantastic feature for any timepiece. These things are crucial to remember in more affordable GMT options.

The Best GMT Watches Under $1000

Since the Airman’s release in 1953, many brands have stepped up to the plate and have designed their own GMT watches. Here are 15 of the best GMT watches ranging from $500 to $1000, including some much-loved brands and a few that might be completely new to you. A few might be just a hair above $1000, but for this kind of quality, it’s worth it! 

Hold on to your pilot hats; we’re in for an exciting ride!

1. Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT SSK001

No list is complete without something from Seiko, and their rugged, affordable GMT from the Seiko 5 collection starts off our journey. The Seiko 5 line is much loved in the watch community for its affordability and handsome looks. 

It’s wondrous how Seiko is able to pack a functional, genuine GMT into a 42.5mm case at a very reasonable price of around $475. Many of the watches in the Seiko 5 line echo other historical Seiko designs, and this watch is no exception. Enthusiasts will definitely appreciate the inspiration from the beloved SKX series. 

At the heart of the SSK001 is a robust and reliable Seiko movement, the 4R34. This movement has hacking and hand-winding, a good-sized 42-hour power reserve, and of course, the main feature, the GMT. The bracelet is the same as most other SKX watches, expertly finished and with solid end links. 

Instead of a diamond-hard sapphire crystal, the SSK001 uses Seiko’s Hardlex crystal. Although less scratch-resistant than its sapphire cousin, its use brings the price of the very functional GMT watch down and into the $500 category. This watch is an amazing piece for curious travelers and seasoned veterans to experience a GMT for themselves.

Find it on Seiko’s website here.

2. Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Chrono Quartz GMT H77932560

Hamilton is a legendary watch company in its own right, starting in America and now headquartered in the land of great watches, Switzerland. In general, one way to bring the price of a timepiece down is by using a quartz movement.

This battery-powered warrior from Hamilton keeps extremely accurate time and is packed with features that will delight any potential buyer. The dial is very large at 46mm, and you’ll definitely be able to feel the weight of the watch on your wrist.

In addition to the GMT hand, the timepiece also has a handy chronograph for measuring elapsed time and a crosswind feature for all the pilots out there. 

Priced at $995 on the brand’s website, this adventurous, extra-large gadget will fit into any budget looking for an excellent timepiece under $1000. This is the perfect companion, whether in the skies or on the ground.

3. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT

Christopher Ward, the daring British watchmaking brand, offers a sleek, sharp, and suave GMT with the C63 Sealander. Christopher Ward is known for its amazing price value proposition, packing extreme quality for very reasonable prices. 

And for just slightly above $1000 at Christopher Ward, you’re getting a tough 316L stainless steel case with a bright orange GMT hand that pops against the shiny dial. Printed on the dial is Christopher Ward’s new cross-shaped logo, marking this watch as a modern and stylish piece in the collection. 

Inside the perfectly sized 39mm case is a beautifully finished Sellita SW330-2 on display with a see-through exhibition caseback. The time is very easy to see whether it is pitch dark outside or bright and sunny, with Super-Luminova coating illuminating the watch. 

This British bruiser can be found on Christopher Ward’s website.

4. Glycine Airman No. 1 Black GMT 36 GL0370

For around $1000, you can own a piece of wearable history. The legendary Glycine Airman, the first of its class, is still available today with upgraded materials. The Airman was a pivotal point in watchmaking history, and this timepiece reliably served pilots in the golden days of flying. 

By today’s standards, the 36mm case runs slightly small, but this is made to the exact specifications of the original. The watch emphasizes legibility above all else, with snow-white printing against a matte black dial. 

The modern upgrades to the watch include a crystal clear sapphire crystal and a GL293 Swiss automatic movement. This is a proven, workhorse movement and has a healthy 42-hour power reserve. The GMT works just as well as it did in the past, and everything about this watch screams heritage and history. 

Find this stunner here on Glycine’s website.

5. Squale 30 Atmos GMT Ceramica

Squale had its start over fifty years ago when only the best watchmakers could survive. Squale watches can handle any situation they’re thrown into. Famous for their dive watches and amazing value, this ceramic version of Squale’s GMT has a vintage feel with very modern features.

Of course, the main highlight of this watch is the stunning ceramic bezel. This ceramic bezel is going to look clean and fresh for many years to come. The watch’s somewhat large but manageable 42mm case is hefty and feels amazing on the wrist.

Owing to their history for divers, Squale also makes sure the watch is also just as comfortable in the depths of the ocean. Rated at 30 atm, or 1000 feet, there are very few places where this watch won’t be able to accompany you. With a variety of colors, a great price at around $800, GMT features, and rock-solid construction, this timepiece is a worthy addition to the list.

See here for more information.

6. Baltic Aquascaphe GMT

For collectors who want a brand that isn’t on everyone’s radar, Baltic has the answer. Baltic is a micro brand, smaller than more mainstream brands like Seiko and Rolex. This certainly doesn’t affect the quality, however. The French brand Baltic has made waves with its unambiguous manufacturing techniques and designs that speak to modern consumers.

The Aquascaphe GMT is perfectly priced at $1000. The design is very original but still has vintage elements, like the hour markers and classic 24-hour bezel. The bold GMT hand comes in a variety of colors, pointing wherever the user needs it to. The bidirectional rotating bezel is satisfying to use and hear.

Behind the engraved case back, which is a map of different time zones, is Baltic’s version of a Swiss-made movement. The Soprod C125 GMT is self-winding, robust, and precise.

The watch is available on Baltic’s website.

7. Mido Ocean Star GMT

Some watches are just too good not to include. Even though it is ever so slightly above $1000, the extra money that goes towards a Mido Ocean Star GMT is well worth it. Mido is a part of the Swatch Group and is somewhat lowkey compared to its brothers like Hamilton and Tissot. However, Mido is truly challenging what it means to have an affordable GMT.

The Ocean Star GMT is a true GMT watch, with an independently set hand and a 24-hour rotating bezel, and is a statement piece. It is big, bold, daring, and can easily compete with watches much more expensive than it.

True to its name, this watch is water resistant to 200 meters and has a titanic power reserve at 80 hours. This massive power reserve comes from Mido’s modified Caliber 80 movement and is officially COSC certified. The movement even features a new Nivachron balance spring which helps to keep more accurate time.

The watch is available for pre-order on Mido’s website.

8. Certina DS Action GMT

Certina has been the go-to brand for affordable, high-quality Swiss timepieces. Occupying a similar position in the Swatch Group as Mido, Certina brings a very competitive GMT at this price point. The DS Action GMT can be found for around $900 and features Certina’s signature DS design.

DS, or Double Security, refers to Certina’s belief in creating watches with maximum resistance to forces. Movements are encased in protective material, warding off the effects of shock and magnetism.

The watch has a 43mm case diameter and a reasonable case thickness of 12.60mm. The true GMT is the real star of the show, however. The timepiece’s independently set jumping hour is complicated and a wonder to behold. Powering this excellently priced GMT is the Powermatic 80, with an outstanding 80 hours of power reserve.

Discover the wonders of the DS Action GMT on Certina’s website.

9. Lorier Hyperion

Few microbrands are more exciting than Lorier. This brand is a newcomer; it only just recently started in 2017. However, their impact with outstanding and sharp pieces like the Lorier Hyperion makes them a contender in the competitive watch market. With a price fitting comfortably within the range of this list, $800 gets you a clean and unique travel companion.

Vintage is the name of the game for the Hyperion, with dual-colored bezels, a 38mm case, gilt writing, and a long and slender true GMT hand. Keeping with the vintage inspiration of the watch, the Hyperion has a Hesalite crystal.

Found in other famous watches like the original Omega Moonwatch, the Hesalite crystal protects against glare and smudges. Scratches can be washed away with a quick treatment of Polywatch. Powering the watch is the affordable but strong Soprod C125.

Find this vintage-inspired beauty here on Lorier’s website.

10. Bulova Wilton GMT

Bulova are kings in the affordable category. Bulova and Seiko have truly remarkable GMT options that won’t break the bank. The $700 Wilton is Bulova’s answer to the much-loved Seiko 5 GMT and has a few features that can put it in serious contention. 

First, the automatic Miyota 9075 is a self-winding 24-jewel movement capable of giving the Wilton the true independently set GMT hand. Next, the dial also has some fine details on it, nicely etched and textured with a picture of the globe. 

The 43mm case and 22 mm lug width make this a sizable option, suitable for larger wrists and also bold adventures with a smaller wrist. Buyers will appreciate how easy it is to set the GMT hand and the boldly colored 24-hour ring. It’s incredible how Bulova can offer so much value for money with the Wilton. 

This detailed model can be found on Bulova’s website.

11. Traska Venturer GMT

The Venturer is microbrand Traska’s first bold step into the world of GMT watches. This is also one of the newest watches on the list, being released just this year. Traska has steadily improved its selection of excellent timepieces ever since it debuted in the world of microbrands.

Traska has built up the excitement for their newest release with early models that have definitely impressed. At $695 for an independent GMT hand powered by the Miyota 9075, this timepiece is a true value for money. 

Modern dimensions make the watch even more attractive and wearable for every adventurer lucky enough to grab one for themselves. 38.5mm case size, 46mm lug-to-lug, and 10mm case thickness make this a watch for a modern soul. Learn more about this model here.

12. Le Jour Hammerhead GMT

Le Jour is a historic brand that has been revived and is now better than ever. Most famous for being a distributor of expert chronograph movements, Le Jour bursts into the GMT scene with their imposing Hammerhead GMT. Capable of being found for under $1000, this is a large 42 mm-sized watch with a very subtle, fabric-like dial. 

The dial is a big contrast to the bold and sharp hour, minute, and GMT hands. The powerful and respectable Sellita SW330 is the heart and soul of the watch. The independently set GMT hand is a great tool, reliable in the harshest conditions. Learn more about this shark here on Le Jour’s website.

13. Steinhart Ocean One Vintage GMT

They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and experienced watch enthusiasts will see design choices from the Steinhart Ocean One GMT that pay homage to many great watches before it. The Ocean One can be customized to your liking, with a vast range of color and dial options. 

The Vintage model is very affordable at $550, is built like a tank, and is a proper tribute to the fantastic watches of the 1960s. The colored hour markers are an attractive, vintage yellow-brown, and the orange GMT hand gives a pop of vibrant color. 

With a large 300-meter water resistance, hardy ETA 2893-2, and 42mm case, this watch demands presence. Sturdy and with specs that go above and beyond its price point, Steinhart makes the ultimate affordable GMT.

This watch can be purchased on Steinhart’s website.

14. Victorinox FieldForce GMT

Victorinox is the epitome of Swiss design and engineering. The same impeccable quality found in their famous Swiss knives is found in the affordable FieldForce GMT. Victorinox pushes the boundary of quality and value by offering this cutting-edge GMT for only $525. 

Any traveler who is looking for 42mm of expert Swiss engineering will find it here. The quartz movement brings the watch down to a price that many will find attainable. 

Everything from the Swiss-army shaped second hand, to the lively red cross and shield on the dial, to the amazing practicality makes this watch hard to resist. Discover this Swiss marvel at Victornix’s website.

15. Nodus Sector GMT

One of the cleanest-looking pieces on this list, the Nodus Sector GMT is one of the first to utilize Seiko’s new GMT movement, 4R34. Buyers can feel confident in their purchase with known Seiko quality backing this exciting watch up. 

The Sector GMT is also at an extremely similar price point to the SSK001, at just $450. This rise of new, affordable GMTs is thanks to Seiko’s movement innovation, and I can’t wait to see what else comes out as a result of it.

The dial is highly legible, and the case is sleek and stylish. The 38mm case size is comfortable to wear, and the watch speaks for itself. Nodus is challenging what it means to be an affordable GMT, and enthusiastic buyers can only benefit from Nodus’ innovation. 

At such a fantastic price on the Nodus website, you’ll definitely want to check it out. 

16. Longines Conquest VHP GMT

Very versatile and precise, the Longines Conquest VHP GMT stands out as a piece that strives for a sense of efficient utility. With a fairly straightforward 43mm stainless steel case, it boasts a polished feel that is somehow overshadowed by the satin finish, which keeps the aesthetic from demanding any animated attention. Its elegance is in the polished bezel, offering a nice contrast against the surfaces. 

A good tool watch should, by all means, be equipped with a legible dial. Fortunately, Longines has issued a black dial with a fine concentric texture whose circle pattern radiates from the center, almost giving the piece an extra sense of visual depth. It’s very transfixing, and with the darkened steel hour and minute hands, you can be sure that this piece will always be easy to read. 

Equipped with ETA movement, the Conquest VHP is a proud member of the Swatch group. Powered by the Longines exclusive Caliber L287, the Conquest maintains a very impressive accuracy of +/-5 seconds per year. The Caliber L287 is an ETA E56.411 quartz-based movement, manufactured in-house, and designed for breathtaking performance. The Conquest is in good hands, as this kind of accuracy is exceedingly rare to find in pieces like this, which goes to show how committed Longines is to delivering a spectacular marvel on the wrist that doesn’t lack in any department. 

Conclusion

GMTs are bold and exciting. Their functionality and practicality make them worthy additions to any collection. An amazing quality GMT can be yours for under $1000 or ever so slightly above that. There are so many choices out there, and this list is just the tip of the iceberg. 

However, armed with this knowledge, you too can find the perfect travel companion. This new companion will be able to accompany you to any location, from the highest mountains to the comforts of your own home. The GMT feature is convenient and gives everyone an interesting new feature to admire their watch over.

There are few watch designs as universally admired as the dive watch. Very few of us watch enthusiasts will ever use these timepieces to help us reach the depths of a kiddie pool, let alone the 100+ meters they’re specified for. But man, do we look cool wearing them.

Admittedly, I am a newbie to the world of dive watches. I’ve been an enthusiast for a long time but have always found myself attracted to a bezel-free design. It wasn’t until recently that I found myself lusting after a dive watch that broke my arbitrary threshold for an expensive timepiece. That boundary for me is $1000, and the watch that changed how I look at divers was the Tudor Black Bay 58.

As much as I love the Black Bay 58, it opened my eyes to just how much value there is in the many dive watches I tried that didn’t shatter my arbitrary “expensive” watch boundary. In this article, we will look at 25 of the best dive watches you can get for under $1000. 

To keep things interesting, I will limit myself to only 1 watch per brand so that we will look at 25 different watchmakers on this list. Time to sit back, get comfortable, and get your credit card ready as we dive head-first into the value-packed end of the dive watch segment.

Before we get started with the list, let’s first take a minute to familiarize ourselves with exactly what a dive watch is, the brief history, and what you should be looking for in a dive watch under $1000.

What is a Dive Watch?

According to ISO standard 6425, a dive watch must be able to achieve 100m of water resistance, have a method to measure elapsed time and be visible at depth. These watches need to be individually tested to meet this standard and be labeled as certified dive watches.

In execution, these criteria typically result in a watch with water-resistant seals and gaskets, an internal or external unidirectional bezel, and luminescence on the indices of the dial and pip of the bezel. There are more specific requirements that ISO will look for, such as lumed indices at every dial marker, but for our purposes, the cliff notes version will suffice.

History of the Dive Watch

1953 was a hell of a year for dive watches! The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms had been released a season before, and the Rolex Submariner, aimed at professional divers, and Zodiac Seawolf, designed for more “casual” underwater explorers, debuted at the Basel Watch Fair. 

Sure, Omega released the Marine in 1932, beating all other brands by over 2 decades, but that watch looks more like a dress watch by today’s standards, and it came on a leather strap. Everyone knows you can’t put a leather strap on a proper dive watch, so let’s just forget about that one.

The sixties and seventies saw the boundaries pushed in terms of what a dive watch needed to be. We witnessed the introduction of future dive watch staples as Omega released the Omega Seamaster 300 in 1957 and Seiko released the 62MAS in 1965. 

The introduction of the Sea-Dweller by Rolex in 1967 raised the bar again as the race to the bottom began. These pieces laid the foundation for mainstream dive watches and have inspired the design of many of the entries on this list.

What to Look for in Watches Under $1000

Now that we know a little bit more about what a dive watch is, what should we be looking for in the under $1000 price range? As mentioned earlier, to be considered a true dive watch, a timepiece needs to be ISO 6425 compliant. 

Is this necessary? I don’t really think so. I look at it the same way I do a COSC-certified movement. Is it a nice benefit and good to have? Absolutely! Do I need to have it to find enjoyment in a timepiece? Not at all.

You should still look for the basic attributes required from the standard. These watches may fall in the “dive inspired” category, and I am OK with that. I want to see a minimum of 100 m of water resistance, a timing bezel, and lumed indices on a dial. The watches on this list will have those qualifications, but whether they strictly adhere to every minute detail is something I am less concerned with.

There are some other attributes you should aim for on a dive watch at this price that are not necessarily required but are welcomed additions. A screw-down crown, although not necessary, helps to give confidence that any unexpected water ingress is unlikely to happen. 

Another area to look for at this price is a reliable movement. Whether quartz or mechanical, you should expect a more robust and reliable movement at this price point. The final characteristic to look for is quality finishing. These are some of the traits that separate these watches from their under $500 counterparts.

The Best Dive Watches Under $1000

Seiko Prospex SPB317  

In the world of value-packed dive watches, Seiko is king. Do they have the ideal option at under $1000? Not necessarily, but if there’s a brand that has built its reputation on this segment, it is the Japanese powerhouse. Despite being the leader in the market, Seiko has recently started to price itself slightly above the $1000 price range with many of its new releases.

Thankfully the SPB317 falls just below this threshold at an MSRP of $900 on a rubber strap. This “slim turtle” draws inspiration from the 6105-8000, the lesser-known case design from the series that brought us the Willard. This watch features the 6R35 Seiko in-house movement that comes with a 70-hour power reserve and robust construction. 

The 41mm fully brushed case size is a welcomed addition to the Seiko lineup, as is the 12.3mm case thickness. If you’re looking for a Seiko dive watch that can accompany you with a diving suit or a dress suit, this is the watch for you.

Longines Hydroconquest Steel Black Dial L3.740.4.56.6

A brand not often associated with the under $1000 segment is that of Longines. The Swiss Luxury brand is known for many of its heritage and chronograph pieces costing several multiples of our price restriction. In all fairness, the Longines Hydroconquest with a quartz movement falls just over our limit at an MSRP of $1050, but given the brand’s prestige, I am willing to look the other way.

The Hydroconquest is available in many configurations, but this model features a 41mm case size paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The design is one of the more conservative on our list, but that is to be expected for a brand with a history of competing directly with Rolex. If you want a watch from a brand that people will recognize, this may be the best option on the list.

Squale Super-Squale Blue Supermblbl.rlbl

Squale is an interesting brand amongst watch enthusiasts. One side focused on creating well-built homages to the Rolex Submariner while the other produced their own iconic, albeit less well-known, dive watch in the 1521.

In recent years, however, Squale has reached into their historical archive and brought us more designs that draw upon their own unique history as one of the most prolific case makers from the glory days of dive watches. 

The Super Squale is a 38mm skin diver featuring a Sellita SW-200-1 movement. This particular model features a blue dial and bezel combo and comes paired with a blue leather strap for a price of roughly $975.

The “Explorer” dial on this model helps to give this model a unique look amongst the bloated competition of skin divers at this price point. If you are looking for a unique look on a classic design, the Squale Super Squale is a great option for you.

Unimatic U1 Classic UC1

Unimatic is a great example of what a microbrand can become if they offer something that isn’t available in the mainstream market. The simplistic and brutalist aesthetics are not often ones that often get combined in terms of design.

The Unimatic aesthetic is one of the most recognizable from across a room, which for a microbrand usually only happens when someone mistakes your watch for a Rolex. The Unimatic U1 Classic is exactly what its name implies; classic.

The 41.5mm brushed case, sapphire crystal, and screw-down crown help to give this watch the robustness to match its aesthetic. At $695, the NH35 movement is certainly a sticking point for many spec-hungry watch enthusiasts.

Although you can find this movement in more affordable options, the unique design from Unimatic will not be there. If you’re looking for a watch that favors bold design over movement specs, this watch is an incredible option for you to consider. 

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression ZO9289

When looking at the beginning of what we recognize as a dive watch, there is only one brand on this list that was right there with Blancpain and Rolex; that is, of course, Zodiac. Despite seeing a rather turbulent last couple of decades, Zodiac is on a path to return to their former glory. 

The Fossil Group is allowing Zodiac to operate like a true microbrand but with the financial support of a large corporation. Thankfully the people behind modern Zodiac have taken this opportunity and truly surprised the enthusiast community.

By diving into their archives, Zodiac has been able to churn out hit after hit, especially with their iconic dive watch series, the Super Sea Wolf. This example is part of their compression series and features a 40mm black DLC plated finish and can be found for an MSRP of $1050 (again, I’m willing to look the other way on this one).

With a black dial, white indices, and pops of orange, this watch is a stealthy modern example of a classic design. The timepiece comes paired with an excellent rubber strap that matches the design flawlessly.

Powering this watch is the STP 1-11, a movement manufacturer owned by Fossil Group, allowing this to fall in that gray area of in-house. If you’re looking for an iconic dive watch with a history that rivals the big boys, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression is an excellent example.

Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto H82505150

Hamilton watch company is, in many ways, a victim of their own success. Their position as the undisputed leaders of the entry-level field watch has allowed watch enthusiasts to overlook some of their other fantastic watches. Perhaps none of these offerings are as neglected as their flagship diver, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba.

Drawing inspiration from their iconic field watch design, the Khaki Navy Scuba auto offers a unique design that helps distinguish this watch from others in the field. The 43mm stainless steel case and bracelet, H-10 movement with 80-hour power reserve, and ceramic bezel offer some of the very best you can expect for roughly $995. 

Hamilton also gives you something extra at this price point, which is 300 meters of water resistance. If you’re looking for a well-built dive watch from a brand with a storied history and specifications to match, the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Automatic is a great option to consider.

Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic NB6021-68L

In the last 5 years, Citizen has managed to fill the hole left by Seiko in the entry-level dive watch market. Don’t get me wrong, Seiko still provides excellent examples at the under $500 price point; they just tend to focus their attention a little higher, as is evident by the SPB317 mentioned earlier. 

As it turns out, Seiko isn’t the only brand that can deliver exceptional value in the $1000 price range either, as Citizen has once again released a product that makes us wonder who the real king of Japanese watchmaking is.

This particular watch is the Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic. This recreation features a crowd-pleasing 41mm case dimension crafted out of super titanium. This enhanced material allows Citizen to offer a more robust material while also reducing the overall weight for the wearer.  

This watch is powered by the 9051 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The blue dial and matching titanium bracelet on this model provide a very classic look with a unique origin story as well. If you are after a dive watch with a fun history and case material, you’d be hard-pressed to do any better than the Citizen Titanium Promaster Dive Automatic. 

Orient Kamasu Red RA-AA0003R19A

Just because you have a budget of $1000 doesn’t mean you need to spend every penny of it to get a great dive watch! No brand understands this statement better than that of Orient. Much like Citizen, the last few years have allowed Orient to fill in some of the gaps left behind by Seiko and their elevating retail prices. 

When the beloved SKX was discontinued in 2018, many people looking for an affordable dive watch began to look elsewhere. One of the most popular alternatives came from Orient and their Kamasu line.

The Orient Kamasu comes in with a case dimension of 42mm, in-house caliber F6922 movement with a 40-hour power reserve, and day-date complication. Despite not having the ISO certification that attracted many people to the SKX, this watch was built to accompany a person in any environment where an SKX was suitable. 

The best part about this watch is its price tag. While the MSRP is $550, you can get the version with the absolutely stunning red sunburst dial for $200-$300 if you shop around. This is a steal when you factor in the amount of watch you get for the price! This dial is a game changer at this price, and if you are looking for a watch that gives you that X factor while not busting your budget, this is the watch for you!

Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient M026.830.17.081.00

Another brand that can fall under the shadow of others at times is that of Mido. Being part of the SWATCH group has helped give them financial stability but also made the brand to be overshadowed by more prominent entry-level brands like Longines and Hamilton. Mido has a great history, and one of their most famous models is the Ocean Star dive watch.

The Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is going to fit the description of many watches on this list. 40.5mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and a Caliber 80 automatic movement with 80-hour power reserve round out a spec list that any watch at roughly $950 would be proud to offer. 

However, the black/gray gradient dial is the stand-out feature of this timepiece. The fume dial is executed perfectly, allowing the watch to draw upon its vintage inspiration without artificial patination. If you are looking for a watch that draws upon a heritage design but appears like you just took it out of the box today, the Mido Ocean Star Tribute Gradient is a great option for you to consider.

CWC 1983 Royal navy Divers Quartz Reissue RN300-83 QM60

When searching for a dive watch with military history, few can compete with CWC at any price, let alone under $1000. Modern-day CWC is a brand that appears to have accidentally gained popularity. Their focus on military spec watches made them unaware of the fact that they were creating exactly the type of watches many collectors are lusting after.

Thankfully for us, they have started to capitalize on this popularity and have released some timepieces that are ready for military action and Instagram wrist shots. The CWC 1983 Royal Navy Quartz Reissue is made to the exact same specification as the MOD 1983 specification, minus the tritium lume that has since been replaced by Super Luminova.

The watch features a 41mm case and fixed lugs, limiting it to pass-through straps, but given its history, I couldn’t picture this watch on anything else. My favorite part of this watch is the Swiss Ronda quartz movement. Not necessarily the movement itself but the robustness that a quartz movement allows for a Mil-Spec timepiece.

CWC proudly displays quartz on the dial, ensuring that the owner knows this decision, both today and in 1983, was not made based on cost savings but because this movement was the right tool for the job. If you are looking for a real tool watch with military history, this CWC 1983 Royal Navy is a fantastic option for you.

Marathon Arctic Edition Medium Diver’s Quartz WW194027-WD

Another brand that caters to Military Spec watches is the Canadian-based Marathon. Their durable construction and use of tritium tube luminescence have helped give these watches a distinct personality in the watch market.

The Marathon Arctic Edition Medium Divers Quartz offers much of what you would expect from a dive watch produced by Marathon. The brutalist design, tritium gas tubes, and robust construction will help this watch meet the demands of even the harshest environments. 

However, the arctic white dial and 36mm case dimension give this watch something not often associated with a brutalist design: a reserved appearance. Coming in at $800, this watch gives you all of the design and function that Marathon is known for at a size that even the smallest of wrists can pull off.

Tissot Seastar 2000Professional Powermatic 80 T120.607.17.441.01

Like many of the brands on this list, Tissot is a part of the SWATCH group. They have a history dating back to 1853 and have produced several signature models in that time. The Tissot Seastar is one of their signature lines that range from casual desk divers to modern high-specification dive watches.

Thankfully for us, even their premium Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic can be purchased at $995 when accompanied by a rubber strap. The Powermatic 80 with Nivachron balance spring and ISO 6425 certification are class-leading at this entry-level range. 

It is their 2000 meters of water resistance with automatic helium escape valve, however, that truly separates this watch from the rest. This 46mm dive watch will keep up with almost any timepiece you can find from the big boys. If you are looking for an over-engineered timepiece with looks to match, the Tissot Seastar 2000 professional is the watch for you.

Certina DS Action Diver C032.807.11.051.00

Staying within the SWATCH group, Certina is another brand that can sometimes get lost in the shuffle. Their lack of mainstream availability in many major markets has limited the brand to only those actively seeking them out. Despite this lack of availability, Certina has been releasing some well-proportioned dive watches that aim to fill some noticeable gaps in the market.

The Certina DS Action Diver offers a lot of value for roughly $850. The 38mm stainless steel case and bracelet offer a wearing dimension that is very hard to find in a modern piece. The classic dial layout and handset help differentiate from the many Submariner homages at this price point while remaining unique and timeless. 

The Powermatic 80 is almost standard for these SWATCH group divers, but their quality and specification cannot be ignored. If you are looking for a classically designed dive watch at a modest size that doesn’t scream vintage inspired, the Certina DS Action Diver is a great option to consider.

Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver 241733

A relative newcomer to the watch scene, Victorinox, a brand known more for their Swiss knives, has quickly made a name for itself in the entry-level watch space. Their timepieces are known for their class-leading robustness. They have been known to test their watches in ways more commonly associated with tragic horror stories than evidence of durability. Who do they think they are? G Shock?

The Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver carries much of the design aesthetic from the original I.N.O.X. line and adds a dive bezel and ISO 6425 certification. The 45mm stainless steel case is hefty, to say the least, but the rubber strap helps the overall wearability. 

The watch is powered by a Swiss quartz movement allowing this timepiece to stand up to almost any task you can throw at it. If you are looking for a tough-as-nails dive watch with a tasteful design, the I.N.O.X Professional Diver could be the one for you.

Shinola The Duck 42mm 20242335-SDT-011571261

Shinola is a brand that is not on many watch enthusiasts’ radars, but maybe it should be. As of late, the brand is paying closer attention to the watch enthusiasts market while still remaining loyal to their fashion-forward fan base that got them where they are today. 

Although they have made some excellent automatic dive watches in the last few years, they do fall outside of our $1000 budget. Thankfully, they have also released something for their more budget-conscious customers as well.

The 42mm Shinola Duck comes at a price of $650 and offers a lot of what has made the brand a success in the mainstream market. The unique colorways, reliable quartz movement hand-assembled in Detroit, and superior build quality and materials to comparable fashion watches have made this watch a great option for the casual consumer. 

The unique vintage dive styling, 200 meters of water resistance, and excellent rubber dive strap have helped to make this fashion watch a suitable option for any budget-conscious enthusiast. If you are looking for a fun watch that can join you on any adventure, the Shinola Duck is a great option.

Maen The New Hudson 38 MK4

There is no shortage of microbrands producing dive watches under $1000. In order to stand out from the pack, you need to give consumers something extra. With Maen watches, this comes in the form of affordable timepieces that stand out for their class-leading specifications and their unique take on classic watchmaking design.

The Maen New Hudson in 38mm is now on its 4^th iteration. The model features a 38mm case dimension with a standard black dial and handset. The bezel and hands feature red accents that help give this traditional dial just the right pop of color to help it stand out from the crowd. This iteration features a Ronda R-150 automatic movement paired with a beautifully constructed stainless-steel bracelet. 

Maen has managed to pack all of this design and specification in a watch that cost roughly $575. If you are looking for a watch that pushes the boundaries of specifications that are available for $1000 but don’t quite feel comfortable stretching to the top of that budget, the Maen New Hudson is a great option to consider.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 C60-38ADA31S0KW0-HKO

Christopher Ward is a brand known for setting the standard for the quality of watches you can get at a given price point. In many ways, they are the originator of cutting out the middleman, and in the case of Christopher Ward, this statement is more than just a marketing gimmick.

Despite having a very wide product catalog stretching from field watches to high complications like the new Bel Canto, their bread and butter are undoubtedly dive watches. The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 comes in a multitude of dial colors as well as 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm to help fit any wrist size.

The newly engineered slim case has helped Christopher Ward achieve a case thickness of just 11mm despite having a commonly used SW-200-1 movement. Miraculously, they have achieved this thickness while maintaining the 300 meters of water resistance and including a sapphire exhibition case back.

This model is paired with an excellent rubber strap and comes at $865. If you are looking for a sleek dive watch that will have no problem sliding under any cuff, the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 is a great place to start.

Yema Navygraf Heritage YNAV2019-AMS

Of the many “Zombie” brands that have been resurrected over the last few years, few have captured the interest of watch enthusiasts like Yema. Their unique heritage designs helped them stand out from the crowd and develop a new era of dedicated loyalists.

Their push into in-house movements and collaborations with military organizations are evidence of their commitment to creating timepieces that appeal to enthusiasts. The Yema Navygraf Heritage is a great entry point into what this brand is all about.

The pops of yellow on the handset are what truly separates this watch from other vintage-inspired timepieces in the market. The engine powering this watch is the Yema2000 in-house caliber, no small feat for any brand at this price point. 

The 39mm case comes paired with a stainless steel bracelet and helps this watch work on many wrists while offering everyday versatility. Coming in at $799, the Yema Navygraf is a great option for anyone looking for a heritage diver with an identity all its own.

Doxa Sub 200 Professional 799.10.351.21

In terms of historical dive watch brands, few garner as much respect as Doxa. Much like Yema, this brand has been resurrected from the ashes, but its mainstream notoriety comes from its historical position as a professional dive watch pioneer.

The Doxa Sub 200 Professional is a slight departure from the design ethos and functionality that the brand is known for, but given the clout that the Doxa name carries amongst enthusiasts, it doesn’t seem to matter.

The 42mm case shape shares several similarities to the iconic Omega Speedmaster, which helps it to fit a wide range of wrist sizes, despite its larger case dimension. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW-200-1 and, in this example, comes paired with a well-built beads-of-rice bracelet.

Despite being available in several colors, the Doxa signature orange, known as Professional, is the option I would go with. If you are looking for a watch at just under the $1000 mark, coming in at $990 to be exact, with a real diving history, the Doxa Sub 200 is a great option to look into.

Halios Fairwind Bathyal Blue Sapphire Diver

Despite the influx of microbrand watches these days, very few have seen the incredible support of Canadian-based Halios. In many ways, they are the Rolex of the microbrand scene. Their watches require a waitlist and often sell for a premium over list on the secondary market.

One of their most recent models is the Halios Fairwind Bathyal Blue Sapphire Diver. This watch features a perfectly sized 39mm case, a sleek 12.4mm case thickness, and robust SW200-1 movement. The Bathyal Blue color of this dial is stunning. The sapphire bezel is something often not seen on watches under $5000, let alone $1000. 

With its on-the-fly micro-adjustment, the bracelet is one of the best executions of this feature I have seen on any watch, regardless of price. All of that brings me to my favorite aspect of this watch; the price. If you can be patient and get yourself on the waitlist, you will not find a higher quality watch for $775.

Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Blue

Another microbrand that has gained mainstream notoriety of late is that of Baltic. They have produced hit after hit, drawing upon the vintage archives of the golden era of watch design. Their vintage design aesthetic is executed perfectly and will have others wondering if your timepiece is modern or truly a well-preserved example from the past.

The Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium Blue draws upon that initial design but does something Baltic isn’t necessarily known for. They made the watch in titanium, a relatively modern material known for its corrosion resistance and lightness.  

The watch features a 41mm case, is powered by a Miyota 9039 movement, and, thanks to its titanium construction, weighs in at an astounding 55 grams. All of this for a price of roughly $775. If you are looking for a vintage design utilizing modern technology that might make you forget you’re wearing a watch in the first place, the Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium might be for you.

Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver

Few brands have a historical archive deeper than Bulova. The Citizen-owned watch brand has several distinct watch designs to its credit. From the Bulova Lunar Pilot that actually went to the moon to the iconic Accutron Spaceview that captured the imaginations of millions.

Despite these signature models, the watch that I was most excited to see reintroduced was the Devil Diver. The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver features a 44mm C-Shaped case design that helps this watch fit closer to a 41-42mm on the wrist.

Powered by the 821D automatic movement, the Devil Diver is just as impressive inside as the heritage design on the outside. The Devil Diver gets its name from the 666 ft of water resistance on the original, which thankfully remains but is not embellished.

My favorite colorway of this watch features a green dial with a matching green and black bezel. Coming in at a price of $795, this heritage-inspired design is great for anyone looking for a quality timepiece with a bit of color and history.

Glycine Combat Sub Sport GL0327

Glycine is a very interesting brand. They have a prolific military history that allowed them to become an enthusiast favorite. In 2016, however, the brand was purchased by Invicta. Glycine remains independently operated, but Invicta’s influence is starting to creep in. 

For this list, we have focused on the MSRP of the brands we mention, which puts Glycine almost out of reach. Thankfully, there are a few models which manage to squeeze in, but if you are a savvy consumer, there are several deals to be had.

The Glycine Combat Sub Sport is a 42mm stainless-steel model that borrows many of its design cues from the Rolex Submariner. The gilt bezel and writing on the dial are reminiscent of the Tudor Black Bay 58, while the blue color and rubber strap give me Omega Seamaster Professional 300 vibes. 

All things considered, this version actually looks great, even though I personally prefer some of their other Combat Sub models with a stronger military aesthetic. The watch is powered by the same GL224 (Sellita SW200-1) movement as the other Combat Subs and carries with it the same impressive 10.6mm case thickness. 

The watch comes in at an MSRP of just under $1000, which admittedly seems high, but a quick internet search will get this model closer to $500. If you’re willing to search for a deal and are looking for a slim dive watch, Glycine is a great place to start your search.

Traska Seafarer Mint Green

Traska is yet another microbrand that has caught the attention of the enthusiast community. Their vintage designs with pops of color have helped give this brand a unique identity that allows this watch to appeal to a different demographic altogether.

Of all of the entries on this list, the upcoming Traska is the one that had my wife say, “oh, I like that”! As someone not normally attracted to dive watches, her approval says something about the brand. The Traska Seafarer in mint green does not look like many other dive watches on the market.

The dual crown design with the inner rotating bezel gives this watch a dressier appearance than the standard rotating bezel we are all used to. The mint green color with blue accents provides this design with a playful and exciting color scheme.

The 38.5mm stainless-steel case has received a proprietary hardening treatment allowing the case to achieve a hardness significantly higher than standard stainless steel. The watch is powered by a Miyota 9039 caliber and is paired with a well-finished stainless steel bracelet.

Factor in that this “dressier” watch is still capable of 150m of water resistance, and you have a very capable tool watch for $570. If you are looking for a dive watch that is tough but doesn’t necessarily look like a dive watch, the Traska Seafarer is a great option to consider.

Apple Watch Ultra

It seems weird to mention the Apple Watch on a blog aimed at watch enthusiasts, but Apple has been on a tear since releasing its first model in 2015. In many ways, the popularity of the smartwatch mimics that of the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s.

This time, the difference is that brands aren’t abandoning everything they know to chase the new technology. It’s almost as if the brands strong enough to have survived the Quarts Crisis taught everyone a thing a two. The latest iteration of the Apple Watch, known as the Ultra, was kind of a surprise to me. The beefed-up 49mm case made of titanium is a pretty drastic change to their proven fashion-first approach.

This Apple Watch Ultra is waterproof to 100 meters, far from the highest on this list, but for something that shares more identity with your smartphone than a traditional dive watch, very impressive. When you factor in the functionality that the App Store provides, this watch truly is a force to be reconned with.

Coming in at $799, the Apple Watch Ultra offers a different experience than any other dive watch on this list. If you’re looking for a connected option that is well-built and able to stand up to almost any challenge, the Apple Watch Ultra is your best option.

Luminox Navy Seal 3500 Series Military Watch

Known for their heavy focus on functionality and ease of use, the Navy Seal watch from Luminox is a personal favorite. That seems to be the case for many others as well, at least those who are in and out of the water a lot.

It’s a feature-rich option that you won’t have to break the bank for, and there’s very little chance it’ll stop working on you. The watch is built with a 45mm case, a rugged build, and hardened mineral crystal for clear visibility and durability.

Everyone likes to tinker with new toys, and this is the first all-black watch I’ve ever taken a chance with. You can get this watch in a few other colorways, but I feel the all-black look makes it that much easier to read the dial.

On a more interesting note, the Luminox light technology used in this watch will retain its visibility for up to 25 years. Low light visibility is just one of many selling points in this watch. At the end of the day, it was the design, functionality, water resistance, and price point that sold me. 

Considering it works up to 200 meters, this watch can handle almost any water excursion while blending into your daily outfits as well. If this sounds like it could be up your alley, the Navy Seal 3500 series from Luminox goes for $545.

Vaer D5 Meridian Navy 

This tough, elegant watch has quite a simple aesthetic with angles and ruggedness that reinforce the utilitarian feel that Vaer is portraying. Vaer is widely known for making high-functioning, reliable pieces with a significantly reduced price than other high-name brands, and the Meridian Navy is amoung one of their finest yet. 

The navy blue dial almost embodies the sea, with warm gold hands that elegantly contrast the rich, deep colors. The hour hand is a wide sword style, while the minute hand is a narrow pencil style, but both fit nicely together, giving us another layer of detail to admire. 

The case is brushed stainless steel with a 39mm width, ensuring comfortable wear. The lug-to-lug distance is 48mm, causing it to take a decent-sized shape on the wrist, and it has a double-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating to provide perfect legibility. The Meridian Navy has a water resistance of 200 meters, making it an authentic dive watch and the screw-down locking crown ensures that everything within the watch stays exactly where it needs to, no matter the conditions of your environment. 

The Meridian Navy is powered by the Miyota 9039, a Japanese movement with 24 jewels, offering a 40-hour power reserve. The Mityoka has been manufacturing this movement since 2018, making it a fairly fresh variant on the market. It has an accuracy rating of +/- 10-30 seconds a day under normal operating conditions. 

The Vaer D5 Meridian Navy costs around $600. 

Final Thoughts

There you have it, a list of 25 of the best dive watches under $1000. This list gave a little bit of everything; Swiss-made, Japanese powerhouses, mainstream brands, quite a few microbrands, and even a smartwatch. 

If you’re looking for the best option, like anything else, it will come down to personal preference. These are all quality watches that will be more than capable of accompanying you on a swim or any other adventure, regardless of their ISO compliance. Thankfully, coming in at a price of under $1000, unlike my Black Bay 58, you might not have to limit yourself to just one.

Happy watch hunting!

A feature that often goes underappreciated when discussing wristwatches’ attributes, from the pricey luxury choices to the more common brands, is the trait of luminosity. 

Aviators, divers, military personnel, and others have depended on this particular specification as an essential characteristic to perform their various tasks with success and distinction. Whether using a watch to plumb the depths of the sea or pilot a flight, luminescence has been a significant factor in the success of these undertakings.

Governments and militaries have repeatedly turned to the watch industry to commission timepieces to help their armies, navies, and air forces have an advantage over their enemies and perform their tasks excellently.

In this article, I will provide a history and evolution of how we arrived at the luminescence in the watches available today.

History of Watch Luminescence

In 1908, the first radium-based paint was developed. Radium, a radioactive material, was a good choice at the time because it produced a luminescence naturally and did not rely on an outside source to maintain its glow. The radioactive decay of the radium bromide stimulated by zinc sulfide led to a permanent glow that possessed a half-life of 1600 years.

Guido Panerai patented the name “Radiomir” in 1916 and, according to the company’s website, was actively using the radium-based luminescent material in his watches.  “Radiomir” is the result of combining the terms “Radio”, meaning radium, with “Mire”, meaning sights. 

At that time, Panerai had improved sighting devices by incorporating this radium based luminesce for firearms sights and torpedo tubes. The upgrade in these sights permitted these weapons to be fired at night with greater accuracy. 

Unfortunately, Panerai’s contribution to using and incorporating radium-based luminesce into a watch seems more an offshoot of his contribution to advanced military use and not the radium-based luminous mixture itself. 

Dr. George F. Kunz is credited with inventing and patenting the radium-based mixture in 1903, so there is a bit of controversy surrounding the timeline and who receives credit for what. Nonetheless, the use of radium was widely abandoned by the mid-1960s due to the health hazards presented to humans by radioactivity. 

Watchmakers and assemblers were the individuals most affected by the use of radium. Wearers of the watches had limited exposure, but because of the illnesses and deaths experienced by these two groups mentioned above, radium use was discontinued.

The following material to be used for illumination was Promethium (PM 147). It was less radioactive than radium and had a half-life of 2.5 years. This material was used for a limited time due to continued health concerns and thus led to the use of Tritium 3 starting in the 1960s.

Tritium 3 is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen with a half-life of 12.3 years. This material did require an outside source for the luminescence to be activated (like jump-starting a battery) and cause it to glow.  But the glow lasted for quite a long time after activation. This became known as phosphorescence. Since there were still risks in using Tritium 3, it was phased out of use in the mid-1990s.

The Arrival of LumiNova

In 1941, a Japanese businessman Kenzo Nomoto set about to develop and market non-radioactive luminescent paints. He was initially contracted by the Japanese military to make luminescent paint for WWll-era airplane gauges. Soon after, he turned his attention to creating a phosphorescent non-radioactive paint and established his company in 1962. This led to the creation of LumiNova. 

LumiNova is a coating that acts as a light absorbing energy storing material, like a battery. The material doesn’t glow on its own. Instead, it needs to be activated and charged by an outside light source. LumiNova is composed of strontium aluminate and combined with europium to achieve its glow. 

Typically, the lume will last anywhere from 30 minutes to eight hours after a full charge of approximately 30 minutes. The more coats of lume that have been applied will ultimately determine how long the lume will last and how bright the lume will glow.

In 1993, Nomoto formed a partnership with RC Tritec Ltd., a Swiss corporation, to distribute the LumiNova coating to Swiss-based watch manufacturers. The Swiss company manufactures LumiNova in Switzerland, and the coating is marketed as SuperLumiNova.

Other luminesce are employed in various watch brands, but most seem structurally versions of LumiNova or SuperLumiNova. For example, Rolex’s Chromalight is a patented name, but the technology appears to be a version of these coatings, and Timex’s Indiglo luminesce treatment.

The Outlier – Tritium H₃ (Gas Tubes)

As mentioned earlier in this article, for a brief time, Tritium was used for luminescence, but it was found to be not without its own risks associated with radioactivity. There are some great advantages of tritium over SuperLumiNova. One such benefit of tritium is that it shines brighter and lasts longer than SuperLumiNova.

It also does not need to be charged repeatedly to provide luminesce. A process was created to use Tritium more safely to provide this superior luminosity. GTLS (gaseous tritium light sources) involves inserting small amounts of tritium gas into tiny narrow glass tubes.

The tubes are treated on their inner surfaces with luminous powder activated by the gas’s electrons.  These tubes can then be placed at key positions on the watch dial or other parts of a watch for maximum effect.

This includes hands, hour markers, numerals, and any place a watchmaker’s imagination can fathom. Another feature of using these tubes is that they can be manipulated into many colors, enhancing the appearance and legibility of the dial.

The Ball Watch Corporation is perhaps the most renowned watch brand to incorporate this technology. The Ball timepieces include the Self Powered Micro Gas Tubes (H₃) system, which Ball touts as having a luminescence of 100 times that of SuperLumiNova. Other brands employing the tritium gas tube technology are Luminox and Tracer.

Final Thoughts

The history of luminescence and its incorporation into timepieces has an interesting but relatively short and limited evolution. Obviously, most changes in the use of materials have revolved around the health risks associated with using radioactive elements. 

LumiNova and SuperLumiNova have given the industry a safe and viable way to offer luminosity on any wristwatch. SuperLumiNova is the standard offered by the finest brands, and it has satisfied both avid sportspeople and watch enthusiasts alike.

Though, in my opinion, tritium-based glass tubes appear to be the superior choice if one desires maximum luminescence and the ability to offer a variety of colors. According to my research, most companies supposedly do not employ this technology because it is costly. 

I don’t fully embrace this response because a predominance of watches using these tubes today is rather reasonably priced. There has always been an inherent pursuit of excellence in producing the finest quality product amongst the fine Swiss and other luxury watch brands.

So, it is perplexing to see that more are not wanting to step up their game and offer superior luminescence as a feature. The tubes, as hair-thin, as they are, would require some modification to incorporate into existing watch models.

Still, the ability to offer a watch with the very best lume specifications is an advantage and additional selling point. Whatever the reason that the tritium gas tube technology is not used more, it appears to be the superior choice for luminescence in a wristwatch.