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Rolex Date vs Datejust: Is There Any REAL Difference?

Grant McKay

June 29, 2023

The year 1945 witnessed the end of the Second World War. It was also the year that Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual Datejust reference number 4467. The Datejust marked a major innovation in watch technology, with the first-ever date function. A remarkable feat for a company under normal circumstances.

However, Rolex managed to survive the war and emerged from the conflict, producing this breakthrough model in the face of nearly insurmountable supply chain disruptions.

The original Datejust commemorated the company’s 40th anniversary. It was first available in a manual wind movement, 36mm case size, 18k yellow gold, and featured a fluted bezel, cyclops date window, a waterproof Oyster case, and the now famous Jubilee bracelet.

The Datejust would ultimately become one of the most recognizable Rolex models and their all-time best-seller. Often referred to as the brand’s ‘workhorse’. By the mid-1950s, Rolex, without much fanfare, released the lesser-known little brother to the Datejust, the Rolex Date. The Date was essentially the same timepiece, but in a smaller, 34mm size and at a lower price point.

The big brother eventually expanded its offerings to include a plethora of dial and material combinations, along with multiple case sizes. At the same time, its younger sibling kept things simple, with one case size and a few combinations.

In this article, we’ll examine the commonalities and distinctions between the two collections. We’ll consider the design, functions, and features of some of their most popular versions over the decades to help you make the most informed decision in your next purchase.

About the Rolex Date

The Rolex Date was added to the Rolex roster rather quietly in 1955. Throughout most of its tenure, the collection has served as a smaller version of the Datejust collection and is nearly identical. Even comparing the watches side by side, it’s difficult to see the difference in size without tools of measurement.

The Date has a case size that measures 34mm and a 19mm lug width. Both watches were originally powered by a manual wind movement. Later versions featured automatic movements. The Date has always offered fewer customizations than the Datejust but a better price point.

Some might see the Date as an entry-level Rolex, and the price would suggest that. But the Date is a solid performer and every bit a Rolex. Sure, there are fancier models, but this is an excellent first Rolex or addition to one’s collection.

The model was discontinued in 2021, as subtlety as it was introduced, likely because the trend in men’s watches has been towards larger case sizes. It’s worth noting that the outgoing model didn’t receive the same upgrades to the movement the current Datejust offers.

About the Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust, released in 1945, was the first timepiece to offer a date function, something that added great functionality and became a staple for many wristwatches. The original Datejust had a 36mm case size, but over the years, Rolex has offered it in different size options, including 31mm (primarily targeted to women) and 41mm.

Both the 36mm and the 41mm have a lug width of 20mm. Of course, the 31mm comes in a smaller lug width of 16mm. From the beginning, the model featured a magnified (by 2.5 times) date window at 3 o’clock, which has become known as a cyclops date, and is now synonymous with Rolex. It’s also known for its fluted bezel and its 5-link jubilee bracelet.

While there have been upgrades to the movement over the generations, the style has remained largely untouched. It’s a classic design that has targeted executives and professionals. Perhaps this has limited the collection’s audience to a more mature clientele.

While the collection tends to be viewed as a dressier sports watch, the timepiece can be dressed down by choosing options like a smooth bezel and the Oyster steel case and bracelet. The Datejust does offer a dizzying array of customizations.

One can choose a smooth or fluted bezel, as well as the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. It comes in steel, white, yellow, and rose gold. The dial options are considerable, with black, shades of gray, silver, blue, green, and white. Some of the dials are textured or sunburst, and others are adorned with diamonds. There’s even an option for Roman numerals or simple indices.

Rolex Date vs Datejust: Which Should One Choose

The two collections have largely shared the same classic style, features, and movements throughout most of their histories. However, let’s consider some of the distinctions and finer points of comparison.

Model Options

The Rolex Date collection keeps it simple. There are fewer customizations, in contrast to its bigger brother, which presently offers different-sized cases and various style and material options.

Build

The Datejust and Date have a nearly identical build quality. Both have rugged, water-resistant Oyster cases. The case size of the Datejust has always been slightly larger and now comes in three different sizes. Both collections have the same basic bracelet options.

Movements

Both have often shared the same movements and features throughout their histories. When considering pre-owned vintage models, it’s worth noting that the Datejust 16xx and Date 15xx collections were the first to introduce the quickset date feature to the model lines.

This means that the date could be independently adjusted from the center hands; a time saving convenience. The latest Datejust features Rolex Calibre 3235 and offers a 70-hour power reserve. The last Date model from 2021 offered the older Rolex caliber 3135 with a 48-hour power reserve, which is not as advanced and accurate as the 3235.

Price and Availability

The current Datejust’s MSRP starts at around $7,000 for the 31mm and tops out at around $16,750 for the 41mm with options like rose gold and diamonds. If you fancy the Date, you’ll have to consider the pre-owned market, as this model has been discontinued; last offered in 2021.

One example from Watch Charts pegs the Rolex 115200 at a market price of $6,634, though the retail price will likely be higher. Some older models might be found for less. For example, some vintage models from the 1970s can be found for $3,195

Value Retention and Investment

Both collections tend to hold their value well. However, the Datejust is likely to appreciate faster, given that there are some configurations with diamonds and other precious metals, which increase the desirability and allow the timepieces to appreciate at a faster rate.

Notable Rolex Date & Datejust Models

ROLEX DATE REF. 115200

The Rolex Date originally arrived on the watch scene right at the midpoint of the 20th century, and while it’s no longer in production, this is a classic example of why Rolex just gets it right. It’s everything you want and expect from Rolex in a small package and at a reasonable price.

The 115200 has a polished stainless-steel case measuring 34mm, as all of the Rolex Date models do, and sits at 12mm on the wrist. The dial is black with silver hands and white Roman numerals.

However, there are different color configurations and simple index options for this model, as well. At 12 o’clock is the iconic raised Rolex five-point crown, and there’s the quintessential Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

The Rolex treatment and standards are seen in the details. Upon close examination of the timepiece, one can see the hands are polished by hand, not machine, and the print is clean and crisp. The polishing and fitting of the case are perfect.

That same attention to detail is continued with the movement. This model is powered by the caliber 3135 automatic movement, with a 48-hour power reserve. The Oyster bracelet completes the package for a timepiece that just hits the sweet spot.

Price: $6,390

ROLEX DATE REF. 6534

This is a true vintage model that’s rare and yet still reasonably affordable. Produced in the mid-1950s, the 6534 has a few unique features starting with the “ROLEX” signature in applied letters to the top half of the dial. At three o’clock, there’s a Cyclops roulette-style date window, with alternating red and black numbers, and the claw-shaped hour markers with double-pointed baton markers at 6 and 9, which transport one to another era.

Most of these come in a stainless-steel case measuring 34mm; however, there are some yellow-gold versions out there, as well. The dial color of the one highlighted here is referred to as radium burn, which to my eye, is a creamy light yellow.

The face is protected by a plexiglass, and the watch is powered by the caliber 1030 automatic movement. The timepiece was originally paired with a steel riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, though many on the pre-owned market have now been matched with leather straps.

Price: $4,850

ROLEX DATE REF. 1500

The Rolex Date 1500 is another vintage model that can be found at a modest price point. The 1500s were made in the ’60s and ’70s and offer the old charm of thick acrylic crystal, antique hands, indices, and the rivet link Oyster bracelets.

Most of these models are in stainless steel, but some are in yellow gold. One of this period’s most stunning and unique dials is their textured champagne face with the Tritium hands.

That one is a bit harder to get a price on, so the one featured here is their sunburst blue dial, which is still radiant after nearly 50 years. The timepiece is powered by the 1570 automatic movement and is paired with a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp.

Price: $4,420

ROLEX DATEJUST 41 REF. 126334

The DateJust 126334 was first released in 2016 and is also the current model in 2023. This model has many different configurations with different material options in Oystersteel, White Rolesor, Yellow Rolesor, and Everose Rolestor, as well as a smooth or fluted bezel and an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

One can further customize their Datejust with multiple dial colors, some with textures and diamonds. The one we’ve selected is the Oystersteel and white gold. The white gold case measures 41mm and is fitted with a fluted bezel.

While the fluted bezel is thought of as a design feature today, it was originally designed to screw the bezel into the case, helping achieve a tighter seal and protecting against water penetration. The blue sunburst dial with white gold lined indices and a magnified date window at 3 o’clock is both well-made and lovely to behold.

So is the blending of the two metals, gold and steel. Gold is admired for its sheen and steel for its character; together, they make something special. The timepiece is thin, sitting at 12mm on the wrist. It’s paired with the Jubilee bracelet, which was originally designed for the 1945 Osterperpetual Datejust, and is a five-link metal bracelet that’s remarkably comfortable.

The bracelet boasts an Oysterclasp and a 5mm extension. Inside, the watch features the Rolex 3235 caliber automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It’s also water resistant to 100 meters.

Price: $10,500

ROLEX DATEJUST OYSTERQUARTZ

The Oysterquartz was Rolex’s answer to the quartz crisis introduced by Seiko in the early 70s. Rolex stopped manufacturing the DateJust Oysterquartz in 2001, but some Rolex Oysterquartz models can still be found for a relative steal on the pre-owned market.

For this profile, we’ve selected a Datejust Oysterquartz from the late ’70s and ‘80s, the 17013. This is a handsome-looking two-tone watch in stainless steel and 14k yellow gold. The stainless-steel case measures 36mm and is fitted with a fluted yellow gold bezel. The dial of the timepiece is champagne with Tritium hands and a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.

As the name implies, the watch is powered by a quartz movement. It’s paired with a stainless steel bracelet, which has thin 14-karat yellow gold perpendicular links running down the center. This watch just feels like the 80s to me. I can see this on the wrist of some business tycoon of the era. It just puts out a cool vibe.

Price: $6,170

ROLEX DATEJUST 36 REF. 1600

In 1969 Rolex released the 1600, a version of the Datejust with a smooth bezel. Today it’s an option, but when the DateJust was first introduced, it only came with a fluted bezel, and that design feature gave the timepiece a dressier look. While only a subtle style change, this smooth edition made the watch more versatile.

The polished stainless steel case measures 36mm and sits on the wrist at 11mm thick. The silver sunburst dial with its raised baton hour markers and handset exudes class. There’s a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece is powered by the Rolex caliber 1570 automatic movement and is fitted with a signed steel Oyster bracelet.

Price: $3,785

Parting Thoughts

Both the Rolex Datejust and Date are excellent, timeless designs. The Date is simplified and comes at a more modest price point, while the Datejust is highly customizable but more expensive. Outside of the modest size and customization differences, the two are incredibly similar, and one’s choice will come down to those little details of preference.

20 BEST Seiko Dress Watches That Are Affordable Yet Classy!

Grant McKay

June 5, 2023

Seiko is widely known for its dive watches and for being the first to use a quartz movement, revolutionizing the industry. Of course, Seiko aficionados will also know them for their high-end luxury watch lines like Grand Seiko and King Seiko.

However, the general public, at least in the West, likely views them as a budget brand. They’re often regarded as the Toyota of the watch world. Solid timepieces that will keep on ticking for years to come, but nothing extraordinary. However, that’s not their whole story.

It’s true Seiko does have budget-conscious collections, which get the job done while cutting a few corners. Conversely, besides their high-end lines, they also have a few middle-grade dress watches that are exceptionally well-made and beautiful.

They’re also a watch company that makes everything that goes into their products, from their own in-house movements to the lubricant that keeps the parts moving; something you might expect from Rolex or Patek Philippe, but Seiko? And yet that’s exactly what they deliver.

Some of the handmade, artisan work on their sub-$2,000 dials could rival a timepiece that’s six or ten times the price. In this article, we’ve identified some of the best Seiko dress watches for your consideration, and only one of them breaks the $3,000 mark.

So, if you’re looking for a refined, elegant wristwatch that will elevate your style at work and for those special occasions without assaulting your pocketbook, let’s dive in or, in this case, button up.

About Seiko Dress Watches

Seiko, the renowned Japanese watchmaker, offers an array of dress watch collections, each with its unique features and designs. Here’s a short guide to some of Seiko’s notable dress watch collections and their standout models:

1. Seiko Presage: The Presage collection is known for its exquisite craftsmanship and traditional Japanese aesthetics. One standout model is the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43J1, featuring a captivating blue sunburst dial with a cocktail-inspired pattern, stainless steel case, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by a reliable automatic movement and boasts a power reserve of up to 41 hours.

2. Seiko Premier: The Premier collection embodies modern elegance with its sophisticated designs and advanced functionalities. The Seiko Premier Kinetic Perpetual SNP139P1 is a standout model, featuring a sleek black dial with gold-tone accents, a stainless steel case, and a perpetual calendar that automatically adjusts for leap years until February 2100. The watch also boasts Seiko’s Kinetic technology, which converts kinetic energy into electrical energy to power the watch, making it eco-friendly and hassle-free.

3. King Seiko: Originally introduced in the 1960s, it has been recently re-introduced, keeping some of its vintage ‘60s vibes but with elevated materials, the latest tech, and the features expected of a modern watch. The King line sits somewhere between your standard Seiko and the brand’s flagship, Grand Seiko, which offers high-end luxury watches that compete with the likes of Rolex and Omega.

History of Seiko Dress Watches

Seiko is one of the world’s most recognized watch brands, and they’ve been shaking up the watch industry for over 142 years, most notably when they induced the first quartz-powered wristwatch on Christmas Day in 1969 and sent shockwaves through the industry.

While they’re often known for their budget tool watches, the brand has been making luxury timepieces since the 1920s, and even earlier, when they first introduced the now lionized Laurel wristwatch in 1913. A model that was recently reintroduced under the Presage line. Starting in the 1960s, the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines were also introduced, designed to rival even the most upmarket brands out of Switzerland.

In particular, some of their dial work is second to none. Both their Urushi dials, with their lacquered, traditional Japanese art designs and their glass-like enamel dials, are true masterpieces on the wrist. You’ll catch yourself and other admirers staring at the details, noticing the way the light plays off each intricate layer.

The Best Seiko Dress Watches

SEIKO PRESAGE LAUREL RE-EDITION SPB359

The Laurel wristwatch, upon which this re-edition SPB359 is based, is an iconic timepiece that has played a significant role in the history of the Japanese watch industry. Introduced by Seiko in 1913, the Laurel is widely regarded as the first wristwatch produced in Japan.

The man behind the Laurel was Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko. Hattori was a skilled watchmaker who established his own watch repair shop in Tokyo in 1881. He quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces and went on to establish the Seikosha factory to produce watches on a larger scale.

This re-edition of the Laurel marks its 110th anniversary and is a limited-edition timepiece with only 2,500 in circulation.

There’s an elegance to the round stainless steel case, measuring 37.5mm. There’s a large onion crown with filigree work. The dial is a white enamel with blue hands and black numerals. There’s a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and a subdial date scale at the six o’clock position.

The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 6R27 automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m and is paired with a thick brown leather strap with a tang buckle.

Price: $1,800

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB293

The SPB293 from the Presage Prestige collection features these Arita porcelain dials that are absolutely beguiling. Japanese Arita porcelain is a type of porcelain that originates from the town of Arita in the Saga prefecture of Japan. It is known for its delicate beauty and intricate designs, which have been highly prized for centuries.

These dials are meticulously designed by expert artisans. With this timepiece, they’ve created a 3D effect with the pure white enamel dial. The blue hands are a snappy contrast to the white, and the seconds hand is anchored by a delicately crafted crescent moon.

The time is displayed in blue, raised Roman numerals. The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits at 12.4mm thick on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 6R31 automatic with a 70-hour power reserve.

It’s water resistant to 100m and is paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a push button release.

Price: $1,700

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB045

The SPB045 is similar to the SPB293 above, however, with some notable distinctions. This is another timepiece in Seiko’s Presage Prestige collection with a beautiful enamel dial. This watch is entirely made in Japan; it’s not one of these budget deals with mixed Chinese parts.

This has a polished stainless steel case measuring 40.5mm, a white dial with blue hands, and Roman numerals. The process of crafting an enamel dial is rather extensive, and there’s a lot that can go wrong along the way, but when it’s done right, you get a brilliant-looking dial that, in this case, looks like it belongs on a far more expensive watch.

One of the areas on an enamel dial that can often show cracking and flaws is around the date window, which is why Seiko uses a pointer date subdial on this, as it did with the watch reviewed above.

The watch is powered by a Caliber 6R27 with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s also water resistant to 100m, which is quite respectable for a dress watch. One could put a non-leather strap on this and swim without any concern.

The timepiece comes with a refined, supple, black alligator leather strap with high gloss. This strap is worth noting, as it’s refreshingly unexpected at this price point. So is the full trigger actuated steel deployant clasp, when one might expect a simple calf leather and a tang buckle in a sub $2,000 watch.

Price: $1,100

SEIKO PRESAGE “COCKTAIL TIME” SRPB41

The Seiko Presage “Cocktail Time” SRPB41 is a beautifully designed dress watch that combines classic elegance with modern functionality. The watch is inspired by the world-renowned mixologist Hisashi Kishi, who is known for creating cocktails that embody the essence of Japan.

The SRPB41 is part of Seiko’s Presage line, which is known for its high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. The watch features a stunning sunburst blue dial reminiscent of a well-crafted cocktail. The dial is adorned with polished silver-tone hour markers and hands, which add a touch of sophistication to the watch.

The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position, and the Seiko logo is prominently displayed just above it. The SRPB41 is powered by Seiko’s 4R35 automatic movement, known for its accuracy and reliability. The watch has a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and is water resistant up to 50 meters.

The case of the watch is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40.5mm, which is a great size for a dress watch. The case is finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, which adds to the overall elegance of the watch. The timepiece comes with a stainless steel bracelet that is also finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces.

Price: $450

SEIKO PROSPEX 1959 ALPINIST RE-INTERPRETATION SBDC147

The Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-Interpretation SBDC147 is an exceptional timepiece that pays homage to the original Seiko Alpinist from 1959. It is a stunning combination of vintage design and modern technology.

The stainless steel case measures 38mm and sits at 12.9mm on the wrist. This collection comes in gray, cream, or green dials. There’s an option for a brown leather strap or fitted steel bracelet.

The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R35 automatic with hacking, hand-winding, and a 70-hour power reserve. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. It’s also water resistant to 200m.

The Alpinist is a solid, rugged sports watch that’s built to withstand the elements of the outdoors. Perfect for backing through the mountains or camping with your kids in the backyard.

Price: $590

SEIKO KING SEIKO SPB279

The Seiko King is an iconic watch model that was first introduced in the early 1960s. The original King model sat somewhere between your standard budget Seiko and the high-end Grand Seiko. The case of the SPB279 is stainless steel and measures 37mm, and sits at 12.1mm thick on the wrist.

This watch really sings on a smaller wrist and gives one that retro feel. The King is a simple three-hand watch with a silver dial, hands, and raised indices. At the 12 o’clock position, there’s a double index featuring a distinctive diamond pattern.

The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R31 with hacking seconds and a 70-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 100m. The upmarket seven-link bracelet, with its butterfly deployment clasp, feels like an upgrade from the stand steel bracelet Seiko is known for and further distinguishes the King from the standard Seiko.

Price: $1,700

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPJ13

This timepiece is another in the collection of watches inspired by Modern Japanese cocktail lounges. The stainless steel case measures 39.5mm and has a relatively thin profile. The sunburst blue dial with its circular pattern is, of course, the focus point of the watch.

The sharp silver hands and indices add a touch of complexity. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock for functionality. The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 4R35 automatic with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 50m.

There’s an open case back, revealing the inner workings of the watch. The stainless steel bracelet features a deployment clasp with a push button release and looks commensurate with the price point.

Price: $450

SEIKO PRESAGE SRPF41

Another cocktail timepiece, this one features a distinctive graded green dial with a rough sandpaper finish. There’s a mix of numbers and indices in silver, matching the silver hands. A date window is displayed at 3 o’clock, and the watch features hacking seconds.

The stainless steel case measures 38.5mm and sits at 11.8mm on the wrist. The watch is paired with a green, calfskin leather strap that includes a three-fold clasp with push button release.

It’s powered by the 4R35 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m. This watch seems appropriately paired with casual business attire, as well as jeans or khakis for a night on the town.

Price: $500

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SSA449

This is a unique-looking timepiece with a lot going on, and that’s not usually a good thing, but it all kind of works with this configuration. There’s also a vintage ‘60s vibe to this watch that I dig.

This watch straddles the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, at least in terms of its looks, though I wouldn’t expect this watch to perform in active conditions on land or sea. That’s not a negative since this is in the dress category, just don’t be deceived by the looks.

The stainless steel case measures 40.8mm, which is a nice size. It sits on the wrist at 14.3mm. The dial is a matte black, with silver hands and indices. There’s an off-white lume to the hands and an off-white, almost candlelight subdial, which functions as a pointer date.

There’s also a large power reserve indicator that stretches from 11 o’clock all the way to the 4 o’clock position. The timepiece is powered by the 4R57 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m. It features hacking seconds and a solid, stainless steel bracelet.

I normally favor simple watch designs, but while there’s a lot going on with the dial, it’s in balance and just looks sharp.

Price: $650

SEIKO DOLCE GOLD SACM150

The Seiko Dolce Gold SACM150 is an exquisite timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. This watch is part of Seiko’s prestigious Dolce collection. The SACM150 features a stainless steel case measuring 36mm and is coated with a lustrous gold-tone finish, which adds a trace of opulence to its appearance.

It’s razor-thin at 5.3mm on the wrist. The dial of the SACM150 is adorned with a mesmerizing pattern that resembles the texture of fine silk fabric, creating a luxurious and visually-appealing aesthetic. The gold-tone hour markers and hands are meticulously crafted on this simple three-hand watch.

This Dolce timepiece is powered by Seiko’s renowned quartz movement, and it is water-resistant to 30m. All this is paired with a black caiman (alligator-like) leather with a tang buckle. The timepiece appears far more luxurious than the price point would indicate.

Price: $350

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPD99

This is another handsome timepiece from the Presage collection. The black dial with silver hands and what looks like diamond-filled indices make for an eye-catching display. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 38.3mm and sits at 11.2mm on the wrist, making this a good unisex model.

The watch is powered by the 4R35 automatic movement, with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s splash-resistant but not a watch meant for swimming, which is perfectly acceptable in the dress watch category, though it does limit the versatility of the watch. It’s paired with an upmarket stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release.

Price: $500

SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGE SPB165

Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edge series is a collection of timepieces that exude a modern and sophisticated style. Inspired by the sharp edges and clean lines of contemporary architecture, these watches are characterized by their sleek and angular designs, making them stand out in Seiko’s esteemed Presage lineup.

This Sharp Edge collection features four dial color options; white, blue, green, and brown. This model is in white with a striking, raised diamond textured pattern. The silver sword-like hour and minute hands are nicely complimented by the pop of blue color on the seconds hand.

There’s also a silver framed date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 39.3mm and sits at 11.1mm on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R35 automatic movement, with a 70-hour power reserve and a solid 100m of water resistance.

The stainless steel bracelet is nicely done, especially the three-fold clasp and push-button. This is a clear step up from a typical stamped Seiko clasp. This watch could easily be mistaken for a much more expensive Grand Seiko. The dial is that good.

Price: $1,000

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX035

The Presage SARX035 features a sleek stainless steel case with polished and brushed finishes, measuring 40.5mm in diameter and 11.8mm in thickness, providing a refined and substantial presence on the wrist.

The SARX035 boasts a black dial that exudes a sense of depth and sophistication. The dial also showcases applied silver-tone hour markers and a date window at 3 o’clock.

At the heart of the SARX035 beats Seiko’s high-quality 6R15 automatic movement, with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and a hacking function for precise time-setting.

Completing the SARX035’s sophisticated aesthetic is a brushed stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a push-button release for easy and secure wearing. This is another example of a Presage timepiece that, at first glance, could be mistaken for a Grand Seiko.

Price: $600

SEIKO PRESAGE SPB115

This is an example of a Seiko with a beautiful enamel dial. This automatic wristwatch features a stainless steel case measuring 39.9mm in diameter and 12.4mm in thickness.

The SPB115 boasts a captivating brown dial with a sunburst pattern that captures the light beautifully, creating an enthralling interplay of colors and textures. The dial showcases white hour markers and hands. The dial also features a white framed date display at the 3 o’clock position.

At the heart of the SPB115 beats Seiko’s high-quality 6R35 automatic movement, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a hacking function. The watch is water resistant, with a water resistance rating of 100 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

Completing the SPB115’s sophisticated aesthetic is a brown horse skin leather strap with a three-fold clasp with a push-button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit.

Price: $1,100

SEIKO PRESAGE “URUSHI” SARD011

The Urushi is a piece of art on your wrist. Seiko is often known for its dive watches, but it’s a dress timepiece like this that I think sets Seiko apart from the pack in terms of quality and value. I can’t think of another major watch brand that delivers this kind of beauty and craftsmanship at these price points.

The lacquered, Urushi dial is, of course, the star of the show. The Urushi lacquer technique is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process that involves multiple layers of hand-applied lacquer and meticulous polishing.

The painted white Roman numerals and the gold-toned hands provide a touch of class. Supposedly, there’s one artisan in Japan who makes these dials by hand, and looking at the finished product, I truly believe that.

The black dial is so deep and layered with a wet finish that it’s hard not to stare at this artwork and forget to check the time. Yet there’s actually a lot of information on the dial, from a pointer date to a pointer day of the week to a power reserve indicator. These features give the watch an antique quality, down to the printed 31 Jewels on the dial, a practice not found on many modern timepieces.

The polished stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits a touch high for a dress watch, in my opinion, at 13.2mm on the wrist. But that’s the only drawback I can see. The timepiece is powered by the 6R24 automatic movement with a power reserve of 45 hours and is water resistant to 100m.

You might expect Seiko to cut corners on the strap, but they don’t disappoint. The black, genuine alligator strap is fitted with a deployment clasp. All around, even in the details, this is a superb watch.

Price: $1,060

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX055

Some call it the Baby Snowflake for its close resemblance to its big brother, the Grand Seiko Snowflake. Thankfully, the baby can be yours for a fraction of the price.

The titanium case is handsomely brushed and polished and measures 41mm, and sits at 11.5mm on the wrist. The watch looks refined but could also be worn with jeans.

Some have described the sapphire crystal of the timepiece as practically invisible. The white, snowflake pattern dial features raised silver indices and sword hands. The seconds hand contrasts with a nice touch of blue. There’s a silver-lined date window at 3 o’clock.

The watch is powered by the 6R15 automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 100m. The bracelet is well executed with brushed and polished links and a deployment clasp.

Price: $900

SEIKO KING SEIKO SJE087

This is a limited-edition King Seiko with 1,700 of this model in circulation. The watch features a retro ’60s vibe. It boasts a pale champagne dial with gold hands and indices. The case is thin, a graceful, noteworthy feature on a dress watch.

At 12 o’clock, there’s a double textured index. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case with super-hard coating measures 38.1mm and sits at 11.4mm on the wrist. It’s powered by the caliber 6L35 with a 45-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 50m.

The timepiece is paired with a brown crocodile strap with a pin buckle. There’s even a retro styling of the Seiko logo on the buckle.

Price: $3,300

SEIKO PRESAGE OCEAN TRAVELER GMT SARF013

The Seiko Presage Ocean Traveler GMT captures the spirit of oceanic adventurers. The SARF013 features a sleek titanium case with a polished finish, measuring 40mm in diameter and 24.6mm in thickness. The dial of the watch is a deep, textured blue color reminiscent of the vast and mysterious oceans.

The dial is adorned with white, silver-lined hands and markers, along with a power reserve scale, a pointer date at 6 o’clock, and a GMT hand, adding a functional touch to the timepiece. Powering the SARF013 is Seiko’s Caliber 6R64 automatic movement, which can be admired through the exhibition case back.

The watch also enjoys a water resistance of 100 meters, making it suitable for water-based activities. It’s paired with either a bracelet or a blue alligator leather strap with a deployment clasp and push button release.

Price: $1,280

SEIKO PREMIER KINETIC SNP150

The Premier Kinetic is a fancy-looking dress timepiece with rose gold-toned stainless steel. The case measures 42.9mm and sits at 12mm on the wrist. The face of the watch features a white dial with alternating black Roman numerals and rose gold-toned indices. The hands are black, and there’s a date window under the XII, lined in a thick rose gold tone.

There are a couple of subdials, including a pointer calendar. Under the hood is the 7D56 automatic. All this is paired with a handsome black calfskin leather band with a three-fold clasp and push-button release. This is a good-looking timepiece, which looks and feels like it would fetch a superior price than it does.

Price:$700

SEIKO PRESAGE SARW021

This is another timeless selection from the Presage collection. The brushed stainless steel case measures 40.8mm and is 12.7mm thick. The classic white dial has sharp blue hands and raised silver indices and includes three-pointer subdials displaying the day, date, and power reserve level. The watch is powered by Seiko’s 6R21 automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 100m.

All of this is matched with a stainless steel bracelet with a tri-fold push-back clasp and features hacking seconds and a screw-down crown. This timepiece straddles the line between dressy and sporty quite well. I can imagine this worn with a suit or pair of jeans.

Price: $725

Parting Thoughts

Seiko truly has a lot to offer as a watch manufacturer. The sheer number and variety of models can be bewildering. Knowing the difference between Grand, King, Presage, and all the re-introductions can leave the average customer trying to figure out where to begin.

But hopefully, this article has provided clarity and direction on the dress watch front. For expert help with the purchase of your next Seiko or any fine timepiece, the watch experts at Exquisite Timepieces are only a click away.

15 BEST Omega Speedmaster References of ALL Time!

Grant McKay

April 4, 2023

The Omega Speedmaster is one of the world’s most iconic and well-known watch collections. This timepiece has become synonymous with space exploration and has been worn by astronauts on various NASA missions, including the famous Apollo 11 mission in 1969. Over the years, Omega has released numerous iterations of the Speedmaster, each with its own unique features and designs.

In this article, we will be covering the best Omega Speedmaster references, highlighting some of the most sought-after and highly regarded models from the collection. From the classic Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch to the sporty and fun Silver Snoopy Award, we will explore the different styles and functionalities of these impressive timepieces.

We will also delve into the history of the Speedmaster and its relationship with space exploration, highlighting some of the most significant moments in the watch’s history. Additionally, we will discuss the various materials, movements, and complications used in these watches, providing readers with a comprehensive understanding of what makes each Speedmaster reference unique.

About the Omega Speedmaster

Originally introduced in 1957, the Speedmaster quickly gained a reputation for its precision and durability, making it a popular choice among professional race car drivers and pilots. However, it wasn’t until 1965 that the Speedmaster gained international recognition as the first watch to be flight-qualified by NASA for space missions.

Since then, the Speedmaster has become an integral part of NASA’s space program, worn by astronauts on all six lunar landings and various space missions. The Speedmaster’s reliability and accuracy in extreme conditions have made it an essential space exploration tool and earned it the nickname “Moonwatch.”

The Omega Speedmaster’s design is characterized by its distinctive black dial, tachymeter bezel, and chronograph function, allowing the wearer to accurately measure elapsed time. The watch is powered by a mechanical movement, which has been continually updated and refined over the years.

The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch remains the most popular and iconic model, featuring a stainless steel case and bracelet, a hesalite crystal, and a black dial with white markers. Other notable models include the Speedmaster Automatic, which features an automatic movement and a date function, and the Speedmaster Racing, which has a sportier design and a tachymeter bezel with colored markings.

Omega Speedmaster Characteristics

The Omega Speedmaster’s timeless design and exceptional performance have made it a popular choice among professionals and adventurers. Here are some of the key characteristics that make the Omega Speedmaster such a special watch.

Design: The Omega Speedmaster has a classic design that has remained largely unchanged since its inception in 1957. Its black dial with white markers, tachymeter bezel, and chronograph function make it instantly recognizable and highly functional.

Durability: The Speedmaster was originally designed for professional use, and its durability is a testament to its ruggedness. Its stainless steel case and bracelet, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and water resistance make it a watch that can withstand the toughest conditions.

Accuracy: The Omega Speedmaster is known for its accuracy and precision, thanks to its mechanical movement and chronograph function. The watch can measure elapsed time down to 1/8th of a second, making it an essential tool for professionals and adventurers.

Legacy: The Omega Speedmaster’s legacy in space exploration is perhaps its most significant characteristic. The Speedmaster was the first watch to be flight-qualified by NASA for space missions and has been worn by astronauts on all six lunar landings. Its reliability and accuracy in extreme conditions have made it an integral part of NASA’s space program and earned it the nickname “Moonwatch.”

The Best Omega Speedmaster References

1. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL MOONWATCH 310.30.42.50.01.002

The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case with a black ceramic bezel and a matching black dial. The watch is powered by the manual-winding Caliber 3861 movement, a highly-accurate and reliable movement certified by both COSC and METAS.

One of the notable features of this watch is the bracelet, which is made of brushed stainless steel and features a polished Omega logo on the clasp. The bracelet is also equipped with Omega’s patented rack-and-pusher system, allowing easy adjustments without needing tools.

The timepiece has a 42mm case size. It sits at 13.7mm thick. The bracelet feels dressy, with its short cross-section links that are tapered. The watch offers many removable links, making it easy to find the perfect size.

The watch dial is matte black and includes a tachymeter. It offers an open back, displaying the 3861 Omega movement. 50 power reserve. Water-resistant to 50M.

Price: $7,600

2. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL MOONSHINE GOLD 310.60.42.50.99.002

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Gold is a testament to Omega’s commitment to excellence and attention to detail, and it features some of the brand’s most advanced technology and materials.

The watch features a 42mm case made of Omega’s exclusive Moonshine gold, a unique alloy developed specifically for this watch. It sits at 13.2mm on the wrist. This alloy has a unique hue that is brighter and more lustrous than traditional gold, and it is also more resistant to fading over time.

The watch’s bezel is made of black ceramic and features a tachymeter scale for measuring speed. The dial is also black and features indexes and hands made of Moonshine gold, as well as a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock.

Powering the watch is the Omega Caliber 3861 movement. The bracelet is made of Moonshine gold and features a brushed finish.

Price: $41,400

3. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL SEDNA GOLD 310.60.42.50.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Sedna Gold is a modern interpretation of the iconic Speedmaster design, featuring a striking combination of black, gold, and brown tones.

The 42mm case is made of Sedna gold, a unique alloy developed by Omega that combines gold, copper, and palladium to create a distinctive reddish hue. It has a thickness of 13.2mm. The watch’s bezel is made of black ceramic and features a tachymeter scale for measuring speed.

The dial is also black and features indexes and hands made of Sedna gold, as well as a small seconds subdials. The watch is powered by the Omega Caliber 3861 movement. The watch is paired with a five-arched-links-per-row bracelet.

Price: $39,400

4. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL CANOPUS GOLD 310.60.42.50.02.001

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Canopus Gold has a 42mm case made of Canopus gold, an exclusive white gold alloy developed by Omega that is highly lustrous and has a distinctive brightness. It’s gray gold with a steel look. It sits 13.2mm thick. The timepiece features an aluminum bezel, which gives it a unique look. The dial features a sun-brushed silver look with multiple shades.

Price: $51,300

5. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CALIBER 321 “ED WHITE” 311.30.40.30.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” is a highly sought-after luxury watch that pays homage to the NASA astronaut Ed White, who wore the first Omega watch in space during the Gemini IV mission in 1965. White was the first American to do a spacewalk.

This model is a modern reissue of the original Speedmaster reference worn by White and features a classic design with a few modern upgrades. The watch’s case measures 39.7mm in diameter and is made of stainless steel, which gives it a durable and sturdy construction, and sits 14mm thick.

These dimensions are distinct from the typical Moonwatch from Omega. The black dial has a clean and straightforward design with contrasting white indices. The sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock display the chronograph’s functions, including the 12-hour and 30-minute counters and the small seconds.

The iconic tachymeter scale is present on the bezel, allowing the wearer to measure speed based on time and distance. The Caliber 321 movement powers the watch and is a significant upgrade from its predecessor. The movement was first used in the original Speedmaster reference in the 1950s and has been completely restored and updated for modern use.

The manually wound movement features a column-wheel chronograph and delivers a power reserve of up to 55 hours. The bracelet wears like a strap and features a vintage look, along with a vintage Omega logo. However, while the design is vintage, the construction is modern, offering a far more robust and solid bracelet than those of yesteryear.

Price: $14,600

6. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PLATINUM METEORITE 311.93.42.30.99.001

The Omega Speedmaster Platinum Meteorite is a luxurious and highly exclusive watch that is a true work of art. The watch’s case and bracelet are crafted from 950 platinum, a rare and precious metal highly sought after for its lustrous appearance and durability.

The watch’s dial is a silky black onyx, and the subdials are made of genuine meteorite, giving it a unique and otherworldly appearance. The meteorite has been carefully cut and polished to reveal its natural pattern of interlocking crystalline structures.

The watch is powered by Omega’s Caliber 321 movement, a self-winding chronograph with a Co-Axial escapement and a silicon balance spring. The movement delivers a power reserve of up to 55 hours and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, which allows the wearer to admire the intricate details of the movement. The timepiece is paired with a black alligator leather strap.

Price: $61,800

7. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER DARK SIDE OF THE MOON 311.92.44.30.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon is a luxurious, sleek, and sporty timepiece. This watch is part of Omega’s Speedmaster collection, known for its excellent chronograph function and durability since its introduction in 1957.

This specific model is inspired by the dark side of the moon and is designed to pay homage to the Apollo 8 mission, which was the first-time humans orbited around the moon. The watch features a 44.25mm black ceramic case that is scratch-resistant and lightweight, perfect for everyday wear.

The black ceramic bezel is also equipped with a tachymeter scale that enables the wearer to measure speed based on time elapsed. The watch sits at 13.8mm on the wrist. The dial of the watch is black, with a moon surface pattern, and is partially skeletonized. The indexes and the hour and minute hands are white and outlined in black.

The seconds hand and two of the subdial hands are yellow, matching the yellow markings on the dial and the yellow stitching on the black leather strap and its yellow rubber interior. The timepiece is powered by the Omega Caliber 1869 movement, which is an automatic movement with a column-wheel chronograph mechanism. This movement provides a power reserve of up to 48 hours.

Price: $10,200

8. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER SILVER SNOOPY AWARD 310.32.42.50.02.001

The Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award is a timepiece designed to commemorate the recognition Omega received from NASA for their role in the Apollo missions. The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case with a blue ceramic bezel that has a tachymeter scale.

The bezel is made with Liquidmetal, a special alloy highly resistant to deformation and corrosion, ensuring the watch’s longevity. The watch also has a sapphire crystal that is anti-reflective, scratch-resistant and has a Snoopy design on the back.

The dial of the watch is white with black subdials, and it features a cartoon image of Snoopy on the small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The Snoopy image is surrounded by a textured blue disc, giving the watch a playful yet elegant look. The hands and indices are made of 18k white gold and are coated with a luminescent material.

The Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award is powered by the Omega Caliber 3861 movement with a power reserve of up to 50 hours. The watch has a blue nylon fabric strap with a silver lining and a fold-over clasp. The strap is comfortable and adjustable, ensuring that the watch stays securely on the wearer’s wrist.

Price: $10,000

9. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 1957 TRILOGY 311.10.39.30.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster 1957 Trilogy is a faithful re-creation of the original Speedmaster from 1957, the first chronograph wristwatch with a tachymeter scale on the bezel. The watch features a 38.6mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish and a black tachymeter bezel.

The case has straight lugs, giving the watch a vintage feel. The case back is also made of stainless steel and is engraved with the original Speedmaster Seahorse medallion, adding to the watch’s nostalgic appeal. The watch has a hesalite crystal, a type of plastic used in the original 1957 model, providing a vintage look and feel.

The dial of the watch is black and features a triple-register chronograph layout with baton-style hour markers and vintage-style hands. The timepiece has a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock.

The Omega Speedmaster 1957 Trilogy is powered by the Omega Caliber 1861 movement, a manual-winding chronograph movement that is the same movement used in the original Speedmaster from 1957. This movement has a power reserve of up to 48 hours. The watch comes with a vintage stainless-steel bracelet.

Price: $7,600

10. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MARK II 327.10.43.50.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster Mark II is a modern interpretation of the original Speedmaster Mark II from the 1970s. The watch features a sleek and sporty design that is both functional and stylish. The watch has a 42.4mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish and polished accents.

The case has a tonneau shape, which is a departure from the traditional round shape of the Speedmaster. The watch also features a black aluminum tachymeter bezel that is set into the case, adding to the sporty aesthetic of the watch.

The watch’s dial is black with white indices and hands coated with luminescent material. The watch has three subdials, including a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock.

The Omega Speedmaster Mark II is powered by the Omega Caliber 3330 movement, a self-winding chronograph movement that has a power reserve of up to 52 hours.

The watch comes with a stainless-steel bracelet that has a brushed finish and polished accents. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and has a fold-over clasp with a push-button release, ensuring that the watch stays securely on the wearer’s wrist.

Price: $6,250

11. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER RACING 329.30.44.51.04.001

The Omega Speedmaster Racing has a panda face, with its white sandpaper pattern dial and black ringed twin register. The blackened hands and indices are easy to read, and a date window at the 6 o’clock position.

The case size is 44.2mm, and it sits at 14.9mm thick. This watch is best matched with a medium or larger men’s wrist. The bracelet straddles the line between sport and dress. The open case back reveals the 9900-caliber movement with its 60-hour power reserve.

Price: $9,100

12. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER SKYWALKER X-33 318.90.45.79.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker is a highly specialized watch designed for professional astronauts and pilots. The watch is named after the famous X-33 experimental spacecraft and is designed to meet the requirements of space exploration and extreme aviation. The watch has a 45mm titanium case that is both lightweight and durable.

The watch features a bi-directional rotating bezel, and the black dial includes an analog hand with LED windows displaying three time zones, a chronograph, a timer, and the MET, measuring mission elapsed time.

The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker is powered by the Omega Caliber 5619 movement, a multi-functional quartz movement that is highly accurate and reliable. The movement includes a chronograph, countdown timer, alarm, and perpetual calendar functions, all of which are essential for professional pilots and astronauts. The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker comes with a 5-titanium bracelet.

Price: $5,900

13. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER REDUCED 3510.50.00

The Omega Speedmaster Reduced is a classic chronograph watch that pays tribute to the iconic Speedmaster collection. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish and polished accents, giving it a sophisticated yet sporty look. The watch is 13mm thick. The bezel is black with a tachymeter scale, which is a hallmark of the Speedmaster collection.

The watch’s dial is black with silver-tone indices, and hands coated with a luminescent material for easy reading in low light conditions. The watch has three subdials, including a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock.

The date window is located between 4 and 5 o’clock. The Omega Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50.00 is powered by the Omega Caliber 3220 movement, a self-winding chronograph movement that has a power reserve of up to 40 hours.

The watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet with a brushed finish and polished accents. The bracelet looks and feels like a vintage Rolex president. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and has a fold-over clasp with a push-button release, ensuring that the watch stays securely on the wearer’s wrist.

Price: $1,800

14. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER ALASKA PROJECT 311.32.42.30.04.001

The Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project 311.32.42.30.04.001 is a special edition timepiece created by Omega as a tribute to the iconic “Alaska Project” watches that were designed for NASA’s space exploration program in the 1970s.

This watch features a 42mm stainless steel case with a matching bracelet, both of which have been treated with a special coating to protect against extreme temperatures. The watch also comes with a white Velcro strap.

The Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project 311.32.42.30.04.001 is powered by the Omega Caliber 1861 manual-winding movement, which is a renowned movement used in previous Omega Speedmaster watches that have been to space. This movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

One of the standout features of this watch is its unique “thermo-compensated” chronograph, which can measure time accurately in extreme temperatures ranging from -148°F to +572°F (-100°C to +300°C). This feature was specifically designed for the Alaska Project watches to ensure accuracy during space exploration.

The Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project 311.32.42.30.04.001 is a limited edition watch with only 1,970 pieces produced, paying homage to the year that the first Omega Speedmaster Professional chronograph was flight-qualified by NASA for space missions.

It also comes with a special presentation box that includes a tool to change the bracelet and a certificate of authenticity.

Price: $20,000

15. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST OMEGA IN SPACE 311.32.40.30.01.001

The Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space is a timepiece inspired by the watch worn by astronaut Wally Schirra during the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission in 1962, which was the first manned spaceflight for the United States to achieve orbit. This watch pays homage to the pivotal role that Omega’s Speedmaster played in space exploration.

The watch features a 39.7mm stainless steel case with a black dial and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The black dial has luminous hands and markers, providing excellent readability in any lighting condition. The bezel is a traditional tachymeter scale, which allows for quick calculations of speed.

The Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space is powered by the Omega Caliber 1861 manual-winding movement, with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

One of the notable features of this watch is its vintage-style brown leather strap, which adds a touch of retro elegance to the design. The strap has a polished buckle with the Omega logo engraved on it.

The Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space is a limited edition watch with only 1962 pieces produced, a nod to the year of Schirra’s historic mission. It also comes with a special presentation box that includes a certificate of authenticity.

Price: $5,300

Parting Thoughts

The Omega Speedmaster is a watch that combines classic design, exceptional performance, and a rich history in space exploration. Its durability, accuracy, and versatility make it a favorite among professionals and adventurers, while its timeless design and legacy make it a true icon in the world of horology.

I’ve long felt the Omega Speedmaster is one of those quintessential timepieces that can symbolize a major milestone in one’s life or career. Whatever your reasoning, the Speedmaster won’t disappoint.

15 BEST Dress Watches Under $5000 (NO Compromise!)

Grant McKay

March 31, 2023

A dress watch is an essential piece of any gentleman’s wardrobe, adding a touch of sophistication and elegance to any formal or semi-formal outfit. However, finding a high-quality dress watch that doesn’t break the bank can be a daunting task.

Fortunately, many excellent dress watches are available for under $5,000 and offer a perfect combination of style, craftsmanship, and affordability. In this article, we will highlight these timepieces’ unique features, performance, and value for money at various budget levels within the price cap.

Whether you’re looking for a classic timepiece for a wedding, important business meetings, or a fancy gala, we’ve got you covered. So, let’s take a closer look at some of the best dress watches on the market today for the money.

What Is a Dress Watch?

A dress watch is a type of wristwatch designed to be worn on formal or semi-formal occasions. It is characterized by its elegant and understated design, intended to complement a gentleman’s outfit without overpowering it.

Typically, dress watches feature a thin, streamlined case, a simple, uncluttered dial, and a leather strap or metal bracelet. Those more adventurous might pair a suit with a dive watch and its colorful rubber strap and tie it in with the color of their pocket square. However, keeping it traditional might be the safer option for truly formal situations.

What to Look For in Dress Watches Under $5000?

Case Material and Size: The case material and size are important factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch. Stainless steel and gold are common materials for dress watches, but you may also find watches made of titanium or other metals. The case size is also important, as it can impact the watch’s overall look and feel. A smaller case size can look more traditional and elegant, while a larger one can provide a more modern and bolder look.
Strap Option: The type of strap you choose can also impact the overall look and feel of the dress watch. Leather straps are a classic option that can give a dressy and sophisticated look, while metal bracelets can provide a more refined and luxurious feel.
Movement and Complications: As we noted above, mechanical movements can offer a more traditional and luxurious feel. Complications, such as moon phases, chronographs, or date displays, can add functionality and visual interest to the watch.
Brand and Design: The brand and design of the dress watch can also be an important factor to consider. Look for reputable brands that have a strong history of producing high-quality watches. Choose a design that reflects your personal style and complements your wardrobe.
Value for Money: Finally, consider the value for money when purchasing a dress watch. Look for a timepiece that offers a good balance between price, quality, and style. Consider buying from a reputable retailer and look for watches with a warranty to ensure you get a quality product.

The Best Dress Watches Under $5000

1. GRAND SEIKO SBGW231G

Grand Seiko delivers an instant classic. The stainless steel case of this timepiece features a mirrored finish. Achieving this exquisite look across the entire case required detailed, expert artisan polishing work. Everything about this watch has been carefully handcrafted, and every detail is in-house, down to the lubricant used for the internal mechanisms.

Grand Seiko described the dial color as autumn light. To my eye, it’s reminiscent of a vintage ivory piano key. The hands and indexes are diamond cut and therefore reflect the light from every angle. The dial features a minimalist design with three hands and no date. The case measures 37.3mm and sits at 11.6mm on the wrist.

The case back is open, showcasing their in-house caliber 9S64 movement with its 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is paired with a black crocodile leather strap that is remarkably supple, feeling as if it’s already been broken in. This timepiece is an excellent choice for both men and women.

Price: $4,300

2. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE MODEL CRWSTA0041

If you’re looking for that Cartier Tank Louise look at a reasonable price, this timepiece is it. The watch features Cartier’s traditional rectangular case in stainless steel. It measures 33.7mm x 25.5mm and sits at 6.60mm on the wrist.

It’s a simple, clean silver dial with black Roman numerals, offset by sharp blue sword hands and a blue crown. It’s powered by a high-autonomy quartz movement, which provides a huge battery life of up to eight years. All of this is paired with a grained black calfskin strap and steel Ardillon buckle.

Some have noted that the strap on this watch is small, even for a modest man’s sized wrist. This type of watch was first introduced in the ‘70s to counter the Japanese quartz craze that put many traditional Swiss timepiece manufacturers out of business.

The silverling from that period was a new market of fine-looking watches, sans the complex in-house mechanical movements and delivered to the public at a much lower price point. This watch continues in that tradition. As previously addressed in this article, while most will select a dress watch with a mechanical movement, this is an excellent example of a watch that runs counter to that rule.

Price: $2,930

3. IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC IW356501

There’s just something lovely about this dress watch. While it’s sized for men, some women are wearing larger watches these days, and it could therefore be untraditionally unisex. The stainless steel case has a mirrored finish. The case is sized at 40mm and sits low on the wrist at 9.2mm.

This is a classic three-hand watch with silver hands and raised roman numerals. The timepiece is paired nicely with a black alligator leather strap, although IWC offers many different strap colors and options for this model. It features an automatic caliber 35111 movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. This watch is classic and sophisticated and would make a nice addition to any watch collection for those who still dress up regularly for work or special occasions.

Price: $5,050

4. ZENITH ELITE CLASSIC 03.3100.670/02.C922

The dial of the Zenith Elite Classic is a beautiful blue sunray-patterned finish with a minimalist design. It’s encased in stainless steel and measures 40.5mm. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands. There is a small date window at the 3 o’clock position, adding to the functionality of the watch.

The blue alligator leather strap is a nice touch of color. At the heart of the timepiece is the Elite 670 automatic movement, which is produced in-house by Zenith. This high-quality movement boasts a power reserve of up to 50 hours.

Price: $6,000

5. NOMOS ORION 38 387

The Nomos Orion 38 387 is a sophisticated and stylish dress watch that embodies the German brand’s commitment to minimalist design and impeccable craftsmanship. This timepiece features a round stainless steel case that measures 38mm in diameter and is only 7.9mm thick, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer a sleek and understated watch.

The white silver-plated dial of the Nomos Orion 38 387 is a marvel of simplicity, with only hour markers, slim baton hands, and a small second sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position. The gold markers are nicely accented by blue hands.

Powering the Nomos Orion 38 is the in-house Alpha movement, which is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. This manual-winding movement features 17 jewels and a power reserve of up to 43 hours.

Price: $2,260

6. TUDOR 1926 M91650-0005

Some think of Tudor as the baby brother of Rolex, but it’s really come into its own. The Tudor 1926 is perhaps their most underrated model. The design of the 1926 is classy and elegant with its opaline dial, subtle waffle pattern, and blue hour markers and hands. There’s a date display at the 3 o’clock position.

It’s a 41mm stainless steel case that’s handsomely paired with a stainless steel seven-row, tapered bracelet. This allows the timepiece to straddle the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, though with its graceful design; I’d say it’s more on the dressy side of things. The timepiece is powered by a caliber T601 with a 38-hour power reserve.

Price: $2,100

7. ORIS RECTANGULAR 01 561 7783 4063-07 5 19 16

The Oris Rectangular line of unisex watches is inspired by the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. They are designed to appeal to those who appreciate classic and timeless styles. This iteration features some new colors and size changes.

The watch is more dress casual to my eye but brings some casual Friday fun to the office or any situation with its numerous color and strap options. The green dial features numerals at 3, 9, and 12 with sword-shaped hands and a date window at 6 o’clock.

The stainless steel case measures 25.50 X 38.00mm. It’s paired with a dark green leather strap and stainless steel buckle. The timepiece is powered by the Oris 561, base ETA 2671 automatic movement.

Price: $1,950

8. SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED SERIES SPB165

The timepiece features a stainless steel case with a sharp, angular design that gives it a contemporary look. The case measures 39.3mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, making it a relatively compact and wearable watch.

The dial of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 is white with a hemp leaf pattern. The hour, minute hand, and hour markers are silver. The second hand offers a pop of color in sharp blue. The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position and is framed with a polished metal border.

The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R35 automatic movement, which features a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back.

The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 has a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet has a brushed finish that matches the case, and its links are designed to fit snugly against the wrist.

Price: $1,000

9. LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE L4.795.4.78.2

The Longines Flagship Heritage, with the silver-white dial, guilt hands, and markers, is a fine-looking timepiece. It features a small sub-second hand and date display, both at the 6 o’clock position. It’s clean, classy, and elegant.

The stainless steel, polished case measures 38.5mm and is slim at 10.3mm thick. This watch is comfortable on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the caliber L615 automatic with a 50-hour power reserve.

The case back features an attractive gold sailing ship set against a dark blue background. All of this is handsomely paired with a dark brown calf leather strip.

Price: $1,841

10. HAMILTON JAZZMASTER H32475730

The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a sophisticated and elegant men’s wristwatch designed to impress both watch enthusiasts and fashion-conscious individuals. It features a classic, timeless design that is sure to make a statement on any occasion.

The watch is powered by a reliable H-10 automatic, with a power reserve of up to 80 hours. The watch case is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm, making it a comfortable size for most men’s wrists.

The watch’s dial is a deep, rich black color and is adorned with silver-tone hour markers and hands. It also features a date display window at the 6 o’clock position, which makes it a practical and useful timepiece for everyday wear.

The strap of the Hamilton Jazzmaster is made of high-quality black leather and features white contrast stitching, which gives the watch a sophisticated and refined look. The strap is also easily interchangeable, allowing you to customize the watch’s look to suit your personal style.

Price: $895

11. JUNGHANS MAX BILL AUTOMATIC 27/4700.02

The Junghans Max Bill is a stylish and minimalist men’s wristwatch inspired by the design philosophy of the renowned Swiss architect and artist Max Bill. The watch embodies his principles of simplicity, functionality, and timeless elegance.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm and 10mm in height, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish paired with a high-quality gray leather strap.

The watch’s dial is simple and uncluttered, with a crisp white background and minimalist silver-tone hour markers and hands. The hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock feature a slightly raised dot, giving the dial a subtle depth and dimension. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position, which adds a practical touch to the watch.

The J800.1 automatic movement of the watch is reliable and precise. It has a power reserve of up to 38 hours. It’s a limited-edition timepiece with only 1,060 in circulation.

Price: $1,350

12. LONGINES 1832 L4.826.4.52.0

The Longines 1832 is an elegant timepiece featuring a stainless steel case and a matt black dial with silver hands and hour markers. The case measures 40mm and sits at a respectable height of 12.3mm on the wrist.

At the 6 o’clock position is a moon phase calendar with a gold moon and stars set against a dark, silky blue night sky. The watch is powered by a caliber L899 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is completed by a black alligator leather strap.

Price: $2,400

13. MIDO BARONCELLI HERITAGE M027.407.16.010.00

The Mido Baroncelli Heritage is a beautiful and cultured men’s wristwatch that showcases the Swiss brand’s expertise in combining timeless design with modern functionality. It is part of the Baroncelli Heritage collection, which pays homage to Mido’s classic and elegant watchmaking heritage.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and is ultra-thin at 7.3mm, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish and is paired with a black leather strap.

The watch’s dial is a beautiful and clean white color, with a subtle, almost dimpled pattern, and is adorned with slim silver hour and minute hands, a sharp blue second hand, and black markers. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position. The caliber 1192 automatic movement features a reserve of up to 42 hours.

Price: $1,040

14. BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC MOA10518

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic MOA10518 is an elegant and refined men’s wristwatch that represents the Swiss brand’s commitment to producing high-quality timepieces that are both beautiful and reliable. The watch is part of the Clifton Baumatic collection, which features watches powered by Baumatic movements, known for their precision and longevity.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm and sits at the height of 11.3mm on the wrist. The polished case is paired with a black alligator leather strap, adding a touch of sophistication and luxury.

The watch’s dial is a porcelain-like white color and is adorned with slim silver hour, minute hands, and markers, with a dark gray second hand. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position.

The movement of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic is a precise and reliable Swiss-made automatic movement. It has a power reserve of up to 120 hours. One of the most notable features of the watch is the sapphire crystal case back, which allows you to admire the movement and intricate details of the timepiece.

Price: $3,250

15. TUTIMA SKY AUTOMATIC 6105-22

The Tutima Sky Automatic is a stylish and functional men’s timepiece. It is part of the Tutima Sky collection, which features watches inspired by the brand’s history of creating high-performance aviation watches for military and civilian pilots. The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 13mm.

The case has a brushed finish and is paired with a Milanese bracelet. The watch’s dial is a beautiful blue dégrade color adorned with luminous hands and hour markers. There is also a small day and date display window at 3 o’clock. The movement of the Tutima Sky Automatic is a caliber 330, with a power reserve of up to 38 hours.

Price: $1,750

PARTING THOUGHTS

Finding the right dress watch can be challenging, but we hope our list has made the process easier for you. Whether you prefer a classic and traditional style or a modern and bold look, there is a dress watch on this list that will suit your personal taste and budget.

Keep in mind the key factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch, such as the case material and size, strap option, movement and complications, brand and design, and value for money. Remember, a quality dress watch is a timeless investment that will last for years and will always add a touch of elegance to any outfit.

10 BEST Rolex Watches Under $10,000 [Rated by Experts]

Grant McKay

March 7, 2023

What connects Sir Winston Churchill, Steve McQueen, Martin Luther King Jr., Elvis Presley, John F. Kennedy, and Paul Newman? Besides all being famed for their respective accomplishments in their fields, they all purportedly owned Rolex watches.

We all know celebrities can be paid to endorse and wear a particular brand, but what drives so many of the world’s icons to choose a brand like Rolex? They don’t need to project status; everyone already knows of their success. What they likely recognized in Rolex is the brand’s unparalleled engineering quality, abiding beauty, and remarkable ability to hold their value.

Rolex reminds me of Mercedes in many ways, especially the way Mercedes built their cars up through the 1980s. During those eras, their automobiles were handcrafted and overbuilt. In fact, some of their models were known to surpass 1,000,000 miles! It was common to hear people compare the closing of a Mercedes door to that of a bank vault door.

I remember the first time I heard a Rolex bracelet clasp open and close; it gave me the same feeling. My father bought several Mercedes cars in the 70s and 80s, and he sold all of them for a profit because the supply in the US was limited, with long waiting lists for a new Mercedes, something Rolex is also known for.

GUIDE TO ROLEX

Rolex is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer known for its high-quality, precision timepieces. The company was founded in 1905 and has since become one of the most recognizable and respected names in the watch industry.

The brand offers a wide range of watches for men and women, including the iconic Submariner and the elegant Day-Date. Many Rolex watches are also considered to be valuable collectibles.

How Much Does a Rolex Cost?

The cost of a Rolex watch can vary widely depending on the specific model, materials used, and the current market conditions, from several thousand dollars to over $100,000. For example, the MSRP of a Rolex Datejust 36mm in stainless steel is around $7,400 (Source: Rolex.com), while the MSRP of a Rolex Datejust 31mm in 18k yellow gold is around $30,100 (Source: Rolex.com).

Why Are Rolex Watches So Expensive?

Rolex watches are some of the most expensive watches in the world for several reasons:

1. Quality: Rolex watches are known for their exceptional quality and attention to detail. Every part of a Rolex watch is made to the highest standards and is rigorously tested to ensure that it meets the brand’s exacting standards.

2. Materials: Rolex watches are made with the finest materials available, such as 18k gold, Oystersteel, and precious gems. These materials are not only durable and long-lasting but also add to the overall value of the watch.

3. Craftsmanship: Rolex watches are handmade by skilled craftsmen and women who’ve been trained to the highest standards. Each watch is carefully assembled and inspected to ensure it meets the brand’s exacting standards.

4. Brand reputation: Rolex has a long history of creating luxury watches synonymous with quality, durability, and precision. Their reputation for excellence and prestige has made them one of the most sought-after brands in the world.

5. Limited production: Rolex watches are produced in limited quantities, making them exclusive and hard to find, which in turn drives up the price.
6. Resale value: Rolex watches retain their value well over time and can even appreciate in value. This is especially true of stainless steel sports models.

Are Rolex Timepieces a Worthy Investment?

Many consider Rolex watches a good investment due to their reputation for quality and durability, as well as their ability to hold their value over time. Many people buy Rolex watches as an investment, with the expectation that they will appreciate over time.

The value of a Rolex watch can fluctuate depending on various factors, such as the state of the market, supply and demand, and the condition of the timepiece. In recent years, long waiting lists for new Rolex models have driven up the cost of the pre-owned market.

The Best Rolex Watches Under $10000

1. ROLEX SUBMARINER 41MM (ref. 124060)

Perched atop our list is the Submariner. The latest iteration marks more than 70 years of evolution of this model. First distinguishing itself with the military and among professional divers and later adorning the wrists of some of the biggest stars in Hollywood. Nothing exudes cool like the Submariner.

Despite the increase in case size of the current model, it offers a return to a more streamlined case profile and less chunky appearance, in contrast to the outgoing model. The case and bracelet are made of 904L steel, which is highly resistant to corrosion and doesn’t require the watch to be rinsed after exposure to saltwater.

“Under the hood” is the highly celebrated new in-house 3230 movement, boasting a rated accuracy within -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. Further, the timepiece offers improved protection against shock and magnetism. The hands and hour markers are 18c white gold to protect against corrosion.

This model doesn’t include a date feature, and many purists prefer the simplicity and legibility of this dial as a true dive watch. Those seeking the date feature might consider the 126610LN model, although it might be more difficult to find under $10000.

Specs & Features:

Case size: 40mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial color: Black
Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 300 meters/ 1000 feet
Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet with Glidelock extension system
Features: Date display, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price $9,100 (Source: Rolex.com)

2. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41MM (ref. 124300)

This collection represents Rolex’s first-ever sports model from 1933. The new model is slightly larger to accommodate modern design expectations while still being slim enough to easily slide under a dress shirt.

This allows the timepiece to function as a sport and dress watch. The silver sunburst dial version, with its yellow gold indicators and hands, luster, and shimmer, changes the look of the face in different lights. The black dial, with silver hour markers and hands, gives it a clean look, with the iconic Rolex crown logo at 12 o’clock. These are just two of the various dial options for this watch.

The watch is also built to last, with a construction that is both durable and precise. The case is made of 904L steel, which is known for its resistance to corrosion and scratches. The bracelet is also made of the same steel and features a folding Oysterlock safety clasp that provides added security.

Specs & Features:

Case size: 41mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial colors: Silver, bright black, bright blue & green
Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet
Features: Date display, central seconds hand, stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $6,400 (Source: Rolex.com)

3. ROLEX DATEJUST 41MM (ref. 126300)

The Datejust 41mm is a modern update to the classic Datejust line of watches. This is a broad, flat watch made for medium to larger wrists. It features a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3235 self-winding mechanical movement.

The watch features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a Cyclops lens for easy reading, and the dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

It comes with an Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link that allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet length by up to 5mm without using any tools. The 126300 is a versatile and elegant watch, perfect for formal and casual occasions. It is a timeless watch that embodies the essence of Rolex.

Specs & Features:

Case size: 41mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial colors: Bright black, slate, slate with green roman numerals, bright blue, bright blue/fluted motif, Azzurro blue, mint green, mint green fluted motif, silver & white with roman numerals.
Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3235)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet with folding Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link
Features: Date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price: $8,050

4. ROLEX EXPLORER 36MM (ref. 124270)

“Bond, James Bond”. In the books and many of the movies, the James Bond character wears a Rolex, typically a Submariner. However, the writer behind the Bond books, Ian Fleming, who was a real-life spy for the British during WWII, was known to wear the Rolex Explorer 36mm.

The Explorer is a no-nonsense sports watch. The dial is uncomplicated, and that’s just the way I like it. If you set this version next to older Explorers, it might be difficult to spot the differences. Rolex hit the sweet spot with this watch long ago, and they’ve been refining perfection ever since.

This version does have larger hour markers that jump off the dial more than previous versions. The bracelet is new and far more substantial. The buckle also gets the full Rolex treatment with the EasyLink adjustment system, which is a welcome upgrade. The most significant upgrade to this model is the new 3230 in-house movement, which we’ve already discussed above.

Specs & features:

Case size: 36mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial colors: Black
Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3132)
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Price: $7,250

5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 36MM (ref. 12600)

For those that want a watch for the office and outdoor activities, comes the Oyster Perpetual 36mm. The specs and features of this watch are, of course, mostly identical to the 41mm model detailed above. What stands out for the 36mm model are its colorful, stylish dial options.

These include bright black, candy pink, bright blue, turquoise blue, green, and silver. I’ll discuss a couple that stand out.

The candy pink dial is bright and vibrant on the wrist, making it an excellent option for the “legally blonde” lady lawyers out there, as well as the stylish men of LA, New York, and D.C. that aren’t afraid to don a soft pink dress shirt in the spring.

The turquoise blue offers a “Tiffany-style” note and is another great unisex option.

Specs & Features:

Case size: 36mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial colors: bright black, candy pink, bright blue, turquoise blue, green, silver.
Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet
Features: Date display, central seconds hand, stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $6,100

6. ROLEX EXPLORER II 42MM (ref. 226570)

The Explorer II was first introduced in 1971 as a watch designed for cave and polar explorers. The watch features a fixed bezel with a 24-hour graduated scale. Its orange 24-hour hand makes it easy to distinguish day from night.

It also has a very legible dial that is protected by the sapphire crystal and features a date function and the ability to stop the seconds hand for precise time setting. The watch sits broadly on the wrist, and I would therefore recommend it for medium to larger wrists.

However, it does sit low enough to slide under a dress shirt, giving it sport/dress versatility. Some have complained that Rolex didn’t “upgrade” the steel bezel to a ceramic. However, the steel gives a nod to the timepieces’ 70s roots, and I think it distinguishes it nicely from other luxury watches in this space.

Specs & Features:

Case size: 42mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial colors: White & black
Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3285)
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters / 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour display

Price: $9,650

7. ROLEX DATEJUST 36MM (ref. 126200)

The Rolex Datejust is a line of luxury wristwatches that was first introduced by Rolex in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. It was the first wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date display, which was displayed in a window at the 3 o’clock position on the dial.

This feature was made possible by developing a new movement, the Caliber 450, which was also the first to be produced entirely in-house by Rolex. There are obviously many similarities between Datejust 36mm and the 41mm previously covered in this article.

Besides the difference in case size, the 36mm model has a more classic and timeless look, while the 41mm model has a modern and bolder appearance. Staying in the sub $10000 category for the 36mm, you can get either the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet (as with the 41mm). Still, should you fancy it, you can also afford the white gold and steel materials with the fluted bezel.

Specs & features:

Case size: 36mm
Case material: Stainless steel, white gold & steel
Dial colors: Bright black, slate, slate with green roman numerals, bright blue, bright blue/fluted motif, Azzurro blue, mint green, mint green fluted motif, silver & white with roman numerals.
Movement: Automatic (caliber 3235)
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Jubilee with folding clasp
Features: Date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price: $7,450-$8,950

8. ROLEX AIR-KING 40MM (ref. 126900)

The Air-King collection has a rich history in aviation. The original Air-King model was first introduced in the 1940s, specifically designed to pay tribute to the British Royal Air Force (RAF) pilots, who played a crucial role during World War II. The Air-King models are known for their durability, reliability, and legibility, which were essential for pilots who needed to keep track of time while flying.

The 26900 case sits lower but broader than previous models. This watch fits a medium to large wrist. This timepiece features a pinned Rolex crown with a clamshell and spring-loaded Lift-Lock system and hook.

The previous model only featured a stamped Rolex crown and Lift-Lock, so this is a big upgrade. The dial has also changed. It features loomed 3, 6, and 9 numerals. This offers a much better sense of time in the dark. The Mercedes-style hour hand is more pointed and longer.

Specs & features:

Case size: 40mm diameter
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial colors: Black with white gold numerals and indicators
Movement: Automatic caliber 3230, self-winding mechanism
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters (330 feet)
Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel, folding clasp with safety release
Features: Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $7,450

9. ROLEX MILGAUSS 40MM (ref. 116400GV)

The Rolex Milgauss is known for its ability to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 Gauss, hence the name “Milgauss” (a combination of “mille”, the French word for “thousand”, and the measuring unit for magnetic flux density “Gauss”).

It’s a modern version of the classic Milgauss model that was first launched in 1956 and made for engineers and technicians. The Milgauss hasn’t been made by Rolex since the 1980s and only came back into production in 2007.

This timepiece is a good fit for a smaller wrist. It’s thin and low profile and slides easily under a dress shirt. It’s a graceful-looking watch with a handsome green-tinted crystal, paired with a matt black dial (in contrast to the typical glossy black Rolex is known for), or you can select the Z-green dial. The black dial sports two-tone luminous indicators. This model includes the Easy-Link system and raised Rolex crown.

Specs & features:

Case size: 36mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial Colors: White with Roman numeral hour markers
Movement: Automatic caliber 3131, self-winding
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Jubilee with folding clasp
Features: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Price: $9,300

10. ROLEX GMT MASTER II 40MM (ref. 126710BLRO)

The Rolex GMT Master II is a watch developed specifically for pilots and frequent travelers. It features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a 24-hour hand that can be set to a second time zone, allowing the wearer to easily keep track of time in two different time zones.

The black dial with luminescent hour markers and hands makes it easy to read in any lighting conditions. The 40mm case size is perfect for people with average wrists and will fit comfortably. The stainless-steel oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterclasp and an Easylink 5mm comfort extension link allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet for a perfect fit.

This model pushes our budget cap just slightly above $10000. It’s also a watch in high demand and difficult to find, so one may have to spend beyond the MSRP to acquire it. Many consider it a solid investment and worth the effort and cost.

Specs & features:

Case size: 40mm
Case material: Stainless steel
Dial color: Black
Movement: Rolex Caliber 3285, self-winding mechanical
Power reserve: 70 hours
Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel, Jubilee
Features: Hour, minute, and seconds hands, dual time function with independent 24-hour hand, adjustable through the crown

Price: $10,700 – $10,900

CLOSING THOUGHTS

Rolex is arguably the most recognizable luxury watch brand in the world. Many collectors also regard them as a solid investment. Their collections have been known to hold their value, and some have even appreciated selling for more than their retail price in the pre-owned market.

The list we’ve assembled offers a guide to what we regard as the finest Rolex timepieces, sub $10000. For expert guidance in purchasing your next Rolex, contact our friends at Exquisite Timepieces.

Author: Grant McKay

Grant McKay

June 29, 2023

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About the Rolex Date

About the Rolex Datejust

Rolex Date vs Datejust: Which Should One Choose

Model Options

Build

Movements

Price and Availability

Value Retention and Investment

Notable Rolex Date & Datejust Models

ROLEX DATE REF. 115200

ROLEX DATE REF. 6534

ROLEX DATE REF. 1500

ROLEX DATEJUST OYSTERQUARTZ

ROLEX DATEJUST 36 REF. 1600

Parting Thoughts

Grant McKay

June 5, 2023

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About Seiko Dress Watches

History of Seiko Dress Watches

The Best Seiko Dress Watches

SEIKO DOLCE GOLD SACM150

Parting Thoughts

Grant McKay

April 4, 2023

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About the Omega Speedmaster

Omega Speedmaster Characteristics

The Best Omega Speedmaster References

2. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL MOONSHINE GOLD 310.60.42.50.99.002

3. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL SEDNA GOLD 310.60.42.50.01.001

4. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PROFESSIONAL CANOPUS GOLD 310.60.42.50.02.001

5. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER CALIBER 321 “ED WHITE” 311.30.40.30.01.001

6. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER PLATINUM METEORITE 311.93.42.30.99.001

7. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER DARK SIDE OF THE MOON 311.92.44.30.01.001

8. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER SILVER SNOOPY AWARD 310.32.42.50.02.001

9. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 1957 TRILOGY 311.10.39.30.01.001

10. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MARK II 327.10.43.50.01.001

11. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER RACING 329.30.44.51.04.001

12. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER SKYWALKER X-33 318.90.45.79.01.001

13. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER REDUCED 3510.50.00

14. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER ALASKA PROJECT 311.32.42.30.04.001

15. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER FIRST OMEGA IN SPACE 311.32.40.30.01.001

Parting Thoughts

Grant McKay

March 31, 2023

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What Is a Dress Watch?

What to Look For in Dress Watches Under $5000?

The Best Dress Watches Under $5000

1. GRAND SEIKO SBGW231G

2. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE MODEL CRWSTA0041

3. IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC IW356501

4. ZENITH ELITE CLASSIC 03.3100.670/02.C922

5. NOMOS ORION 38 387

6. TUDOR 1926 M91650-0005

7. ORIS RECTANGULAR 01 561 7783 4063-07 5 19 16

8. SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED SERIES SPB165

9. LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE L4.795.4.78.2

10. HAMILTON JAZZMASTER H32475730

11. JUNGHANS MAX BILL AUTOMATIC 27/4700.02

12. LONGINES 1832 L4.826.4.52.0

13. MIDO BARONCELLI HERITAGE M027.407.16.010.00

14. BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC MOA10518

15. TUTIMA SKY AUTOMATIC 6105-22

PARTING THOUGHTS

Grant McKay

March 7, 2023

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GUIDE TO ROLEX

How Much Does a Rolex Cost?

Why Are Rolex Watches So Expensive?

Are Rolex Timepieces a Worthy Investment?

The Best Rolex Watches Under $10000

1. ROLEX SUBMARINER 41MM (ref. 124060)

2. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41MM (ref. 124300)

Selection of Grand
Seiko Watches