Author: Kurt Tiedemann

Mechanical watches with alarm functions used to be all the rage in, say, the 1950s. But over the years, they understandably took a back seat to modern gimmicks, such as the smartphone or the digital alarm clock. For this reason, mechanical alarm watches seem to have fallen out of favor with watch enthusiasts and manufacturers alike. 

In my eyes (rose-tinted though they may be), this is a great shame. Not only is the on-wrist alarm feature useful in everyday life, but these watches also grant the wearer an element of style and hold a degree of historical gravitas that the iPhone inherently lacks.

Alarms Before The Snooze Button

The first mechanical wristwatch with an alarm function was introduced by Swiss watchmaker Eterna in 1914, thanks to a patent filed in 1908. Unfortunately, the watch didn’t do very well, and pocket watches remained the preferred timekeepers du jour.

It wasn’t until 1947 that the alarm watch gained popularity with the release of the Vulcain Cricket, a hand-wound timepiece with two barrels that emitted a chirping chime. 

The Cricket’s acclaim was inevitably boosted by its association with several US Presidents, including Eisenhower, Truman, Nixon, and Lyndon Johnson. It was even marketed as ‘The President’s Watch’. From Truman onwards, mechanical alarm watches found their place in the world amongst collectors and casual wearers alike.

Mechanical Alarms in The Age of The Smartphone

If, like me, you’re an analog kid meandering through a digital world, then the simple joy of a physical chime is worth far more than all the smartphone apps money can buy. As bespoke market sectors continue to serve discerning buyers, we’re seeing an interesting trend towards more tangible items (the vinyl resurgence is a strong example of this, as is the revival of interest in classic cars). 

This is no different for watches – as more buyers become aware of the allure of owning something that tells a story, utilitarian traits are no longer the determining factors behind many purchases. 

Enter the mechanical alarm watch. Do you need a mechanical alarm on your wrist? No. Does wearing one tie you into a rich and meaningful network of creators and appreciators spanning generations? Hell yeah, it does.

The Best Watches With a Mechanical Alarm

Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5520P-001)

The Patek Philippe Grand Complications 5520P is pretty much what it says on the box – a luxury travel watch with some fairly lofty complications, one of which is an alarm that uses a musical hammer-and-gong-style chiming mechanism instead of the typical vibrating, buzzing sound.

It’s a continuation of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time collection with the definitive addition of the alarm complication. On the face lie two 12-hour-format time zones and a date dial, all presented in a fairly modest manner, despite the watch’s somewhat exuberant name. With an ergonomic and logical design, the alarm time is set in five-minute increments using a couple of digital windows under 12 o’clock.

A small circular window indicates AM or PM, and a bell-shaped window shows if the alarm function is on or off. The watch also has two more distinct AM/PM indicators on the dial, one for each time zone – a subtly nifty feature for the frequent travelers among us.

Driven by an automatic movement that includes high-performance proprietary components, it’s safe to say you’re getting exactly the quality you’d expect from Patek. The case is 42.2mm-wide and 11.6mm-thick, made of solid 950 platinum. In other words, it’s as sturdy as they come.

The alarm chimes are impressively loud, thanks to the gongs being attached directly to the case to create an overall audio reverberation system. This work of sheer genius from Patek will set you back a cool $226,800.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox (Q9038670)

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 50th anniversary of its iconic Polaris watch with the release of 1000 units that is a modern take on the original 1968 design, a watch that I would do almost anything to own. The limited edition Polaris Memovox’s defining characteristic is its pointed circularity – a design that is somehow sharp and rounded at the same time, thanks to elongated baton hands and an inner-dial indicator for the alarm function. 

The black face has a vintage feel with vanilla-colored markers, which are filled with faux-aged lume that makes this whole thing look extra yummy. Retaining the classic three-crown set-up, the inner rotating bezel, and the original Polaris alarm function (duh), this edition features new elements such as a three-finish black dial and a mix of complications.

The alarm has a classic report – what I would refer to as the ‘old school bedside alarm’ sound and is the ideal balance between charming and, well, alarming. With a 42mm stainless steel case and a thickness of 15.9mm, this isn’t the smallest watch, so if you’re a stickler for size, bear that in mind. With that being said, though, it’s not nearly as thick as its predecessors, and a very minimal case and bezel serve to lessen this issue even further.

The in-house Caliber 956 movement is specially assembled in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s complications workshop to ensure the highest standards of distinction. All-in-all, this Polaris Memovox release proves that this iconic line just gets better with time.

Vulcain Nautical Trophy (100107.024VT)

The Vulcain Nautical Cricket is a legendary watch introduced in 1961 as a true diver’s instrument. Designed with the help of diver Hannes Keller, who held the record for the deepest dive at the time, the watch had an alarm complication and decompression tables built right into the dial, features that may be a tad busy for some while absolutely essential for others. 

Today’s Nautical Trophy was released as a special edition watch in 2011 and exudes a slightly-updated 60’s charm; a clous-de-Paris bezel visibly differentiates this piece from the original at face value. The dial’s outer ring is dedicated to conventional time-telling duties, with a simple 3, 6, and 9 configuration, while on the interior of the dial, the decompression table takes precedence. Legibility is a bit of an issue at first, but once you get used to the details, it’s a breeze. 

The 42mm steel case is slightly elevated on the wrist thanks to the triple-caseback, but it’s worth the extra height. The Nautical Cricket is a great piece of mechanical tech to behold, and although I long for an open caseback through which to view Vulcain’s impressive caliber V-10 movement, I’ll take the working alarm function as a handsome trade-off.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition (01 910 7745 4084-Set LS)

Oris is a company known for its robust and functional watches, and their limited-edition Big Crown ProPilot Alarm is no exception. This model features a mechanical 12-hour alarm function, indicated by a vibrant, yellow-tipped central hand that points at an inner ring to show when the alarm will go off, similar to the Memovox mentioned above. 

The alarm can be set in 10-minute increments via the crown that lies between 3 and 4 o’clock, while the watch also includes a rotating date function displayed through a circular aperture in the dial. At 44mm and boasting 2 oversized crowns and a knurled bezel, this is certainly the most masculine watch on the list thus far.

With that being said, there’s nothing particularly confrontational about the ProPilot. Limited to just 250 pieces, this big boy comes on a dark brown crocodile leather strap with Oris’ signature airplane seatbelt-style clasp and has a sapphire crystal on the dial side.

Oris’s own Calibre 910 movement powers the watch and includes automatic winding, central hours, minutes, and seconds, as well as the aforementioned ring-date function, which is a very satisfying addition by any measure.

Tudor Heritage Advisor (79620T)

The Tudor Heritage Advisor pays homage to its 1957 predecessor while incorporating tastefully modern design elements that are very… Tudor. The 42mm satin-brushed and polished titanium case sits on either a cognac-colored alligator leather strap or a steel bracelet with a folding clasp.

It can also be put on an additional black silk jacquard strap (made by a 150-year-old Swiss family business, no less). The case metal was chosen and treated specifically to enhance the sound of the alarm, a detail that is beautifully fitting for a mechanical alarm watch. A cognac brown dial boasts a variety of textures, including opaline, circular-grained, sunburst satin finishes, and sandblasted elements.

Dauphine hands, beveled hour indices, and a central red hand for the alarm function are inspired by the vintage aesthetic and, indeed, grant this watch a certain haughtiness that is altogether fitting of the style. Tudor’s Caliber 2892 movement powers the Heritage Advisor and incorporates an in-house-developed module with an ETA base movement.

The alarm function can be activated and turned off with the pusher at 8 o’clock, while the crown at 2 o’clock sets the alarm time via the red hand and the outer minute track. The other crown at 4 o’clock sets the time and date. Retailing for $6,000 on leather and $6,225 on steel, it’s a fairly-priced watch by any measure. Despite being overshadowed by other members of the Heritage series, the Heritage Advisor is one of the most attractive timepieces in the range.

Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 (5547TI/Y1/9ZU)

Breguet’s Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 offers a sophisticated alarm function within a maritime-themed design that pays tribute to the brand’s founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Introduced in 2019, the watch comes in a 40mm titanium case and possesses a sunburst slate grey dial with an array of displays.

Some might even say too many displays – an alarm subdial at 3 o’clock, a 24-hour subdial at 9 o’clock, an alarm activation aperture at 12 o’clock, and a power reserve indicator for the alarm between the IX and XII Roman numerals. It’s a lot, frankly. 

However, if a complex dial excites you, as it does many, then this is right up your street. The watch gets its juice from the self-winding 519F/1 caliber, which features two separate barrels to provide energy to the main movement and the alarm mechanism, respectively.

The alarm function is easily activated using a pushbutton and has a high-pitched tone. Priced at $28,600, the Alarme Musicale 5547 represents great value for money in terms of technicality and build quality if you find this kind of facade appealing.

Richard Mille RM 62-01

Hold on to your wallets; this one is pricey. Richard Mille and Airbus Corporate Jets (ACJ) launched the RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrating Alarm watch in 2019. In true Mille fashion, it was the most complex watch the firm had ever created at the time – one designed with a focus on the traveler, with an alarm function intended to be discreet and exclusive, transmitted purely by vibrations that only the wearer could perceive.

This makes the watch uniquely intriguing, as to benefit from the complex alarm function, the wearer has to be wearing the watch. Perhaps more interestingly, the vibrating alarm was designed not to affect the movement, which was obviously a significant concern. Thus, a solid gold offset weight was used to transmit the vibration, inspired by the vibrating function of earlier mobile phones, which is a strange dichotomy in its own right.

It took extensive research and development to fit 816 parts, 2 barrels, 7 hands, 11 displays, and a tourbillon cage into the limited volume of the watch case; a watch constructor needed five years to create the timepiece. Patience truly is a virtue.

Being a Richard Mille watch, after all, the RM 62-01 is limited to 30 pieces, each one going for $1,225,000. It embodies the paradox of being supremely easy to use while being a complicated watch, an accomplishment that evidently commands a hefty sum.

Hublot Big Bang Alarm Repeater Titanium (403.NM.0123.RX)

Hublot’s limited edition Big Bang Alarm Repeater watch came out in 2015 and notably combines the functionality of a mechanical alarm with a minute repeater, resulting in a more elegant sound than traditional alarm watches.

The timepiece features a gong and hammer system and a semi-transparent dial made from several colored layers of sapphire crystal, which is very representative of the Hublot vibe – proudly complex and stylistically bold. Furthermore, the off-center dial places this piece in its own camp among Hublot’s releases, adding an extra element of individuality to the watch.

The manually-wound movement was designed and produced by Chronode and is almost exclusive to Hublot, with only a small number of Cyrus watches also able to use the movement. It features a silicon escapement system, 72-hour power reserve, time with a 24-hour indicator, a 24-hour dial to set the alarm time, and an on/off switch for the alarm complication.

The case is that of the Big Bang 45 (which is no stranger to those familiar with Hublot), which has a unique pusher design and a matte black ceramic bezel. Limited to 250 pieces, the Big Bang Alarm Repeater is priced at $56,300.

Vulcain 50s Presidents (210150.276LF)

Vulcain’s first alarm complication on a wristwatch in 1947, and the models that followed, have been worn by almost every US president since Truman. But, these paradigmatic watches have also spurred many horological innovations over the years.

The movements for these are still almost entirely in-house and beautifully finished, enclosed in resplendently branded vintage-style cases. The company’s newest take on the Cricket exhibits a striking silver dial with beveled hour markers and classic dauphine hands.

A polished stainless steel case sits at 42mm, slightly larger than what one would expect from a watch inspired by the mid-century style. However, the purposeful addition of a cambered sapphire crystal maintains the vintage look perfectly.

Inside the Cricket is the V-11, a manual movement manufactured by Vulcain, which has two barrels, a 42-hour power reserve, and a new ‘Exactomatic’ system that improves regulation of amplitude and reduces wear, resulting in increased accuracy.

The movement is expertly finished, with beveling and dressage throughout, and the crown and ratchet wheels have an exotic, almost Aztec-like design. With this immutable wearability and timeless design for $5,200, can you really afford not to buy it?

Panerai Radiomir GMT/Alarm (PAM00098)

This Panerai is a suave timepiece that just oozes style and functionality. That is, a very specific style and a very reliable set of functions. Produced in 2008, this watch features a robust steel case with a diameter of 42mm, paired with a handsome brown leather strap; it’s perfect for everyday wear.

Like many on this list, the watch has no better use than keeping frequent travelers on schedule. And boy, does it do that in style, with its soft square case and stark black face. If there’s one thing Panerai knows, it’s how to turn a head. Legibility was clearly a priority when designing the watch, as the dial remains uncluttered despite having a date window and GMT window.

That’s right – GMT window, not dial. Bold Arabic numerals and luminous hands further add to this dynamic. The Radiomir is equipped with an automatic movement with a generous power reserve of 47 hours and 31 sparkling jewels, ensuring optimal performance.

The buckle clasp adds an extra layer of security and style to the already stunning leather strap. And with a water resistance of 30 meters, this watch is well suited for everyday wear, marrying both style and functionality in a way that only Panerai knows how.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Alarm (Q183T770)

As with a few other watches on the list, this JLC is a limited edition. Specifically, it’s a run of 1500 units, made in partnership with the United States Navy Seals, and you can bet that it lives up to the label granted to it by the special forces.

A 44mm titanium case and a ridiculously scratch-resistant ceramic bezel provide ample framework for a deafeningly black face with contrasting white indices and Arabic numerals at 6, 9, and 12. There’s a double-sealed date window at 3 o’clock, and of course, the center of the dial represents the alarm function, with a rotating arrow marker indicating the current alarm time setting.

It almost goes without saying that this is a hefty watch – its 300-meter water resistance requires only as much; therefore, the Master Compressor isn’t recommended for those with a more slender disposition.

The inner workings are impressively detailed, though; laser-welded hairspring, 45-hour power reserve, and ceramic winding rotor bearings are a few of the components wrapped up in the automatic JLC caliber 956. This is a serious watch, for serious people, with serious wrists.

Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral Dual Time (670-88/213)

The Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral Dual Time stands out due to its advanced execution of multiple impressive features, all represented on a very ‘Jetson-esque’ dial. That’s right – I just referenced a cartoon. A big date complication is accessed through the left-hand crown, which can wind both forwards and backward.

It also allows the user to access a second time zone with the push of a button without even taking the watch off. As if that’s not impressive enough, a 24-hour alarm function can be set once and forgotten, much like its digital counterparts, and the countdown timer display helps the user to know whether the alarm is set for AM or PM. 

Finally, the watch has a cathedral gong that sounds for its alarm, providing a rich, clean sound that is undeniably unique to this model. The Ulysse Nardin calibre UN-67, which has over 400 parts, ensures that the watch is intuitive to use, so, despite any initial trepidation regarding its complex dial, you can rest assured that you won’t need an instruction manual for this one.

Fortis B-42 Flieger Chronograph Alarm (657.10.170)

Introducing the Fortis B-42 Flieger (Flyer) Chronograph Alarm, the perfect combination of sporty and elegant, or at least, the military representation of these things. The dial is minimalistic and impressive, embossed and blued with hour numerals that stand out and are provided with index bars and tritium.

Steel skeleton hands with small luminous elements add to the watch’s ultra-functional design. Brushed stainless steel makes up most of the case, which is waterproof up to 200m, while the rest consists of sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment (on both sides). 

The transparent caseback provides a clear view of the decorated movement and rotor parts, which are made according to historical style. The watch is equipped with a self-winding chronograph movement with an alarm function, developed by the renowned watch artist Paul Gerber and based on the ETA movement Valjoux 7750.

With a COSC-certified chronometer, 32 jewels, and precision regulation, this watch is as accurate as it gets for the money. The B-42 Flieger Chronograph Alarm comes with a reptile leather strap or stainless steel bracelet, both with a tang-type buckle or folding clasp, respectively.

Oris Artelier Alarm (01 908 7607 4091-Set LS)

What I love most about this timepiece is the subtlety of its immodesty – a well-polished stainless steel case, well-machined index hour markers, a silver and grey guilloche dial, luminous hands, and detailed Arabic numerals ringing the central alarm dial.

To the layman, this is a basic timepiece, but to someone who knows what it takes to make a watch like this, it’s a gem. At 42.5mm in diameter, it’s an easy-wearing piece on most wrists and, in fact, wears rather small despite being just over 14mm thick.

The caseback is transparent, and the dial lies underneath anti-reflective sapphire. It’s about as easy to read as a watch gets, and with the Oris Caliber 908 humming along at 28,800 vph, it’s also about as accurate as a watch in this price bracket can be.

Although there’s little to write home about in terms of complications (unless your parents are horologists), the alarm is audibly pleasant, and the movement is reliable. Slap it on a brown crocodile leather strap with a push-button deployment buckle, and you’ve got just about all you need, replete with class and decorum.

Omega Seamaster Memomatic (166.071)

Released in 1971, this Omega is every bit as weird as it is intriguing. At the time of its debut, it was the only watch with an alarm that could be set to the minute, which is a feat deserving of your respect, at the very least.

It’s got a slight ‘racing’ quality to it, which it earns as a result of the very red seconds hand and the alarm arrow, but the main sense one gets from this design is that it’s rather artsy. The brushing of the stainless steel on this wide-bezel case (let alone its unique oval shape) is far from your average stylistic choice.

Coupled with the varying colors of the dial, this makes for a very unique Omega, a Swiss watch that looks more similar to Seiko’s Bell-Matic than any other. The automatic caliber 960 runs the show here, offering an alarm function and a quick-set date – a simple but effective movement that, as you might expect from the brand, is as accurate as you’d ever need it to be for daily wear.

There’s nothing outwardly special about the Seamaster Memomatic. It’s simply a watch so particular in how it looks that it will surely catch the eye of those who love its aesthetic.

Wake Up to The Mechanical Alarm Watch

Looking at the watches on this list, I see one distinct through-line. No, it’s not the fact that they all have an alarm. I see that these watches represent a unique and storied period of innovation and creativity that gave rise to an entire paradigm of interest in the horological world.

These are pieces so specific in their function that they demand attention, regardless of where or not they’re the pinnacle of technological advancement. They’re worth your time because they’ve taken up so much of our predecessors’ time; it’s that simple. 

With that being said, if I’m pushing for any sub-set of watches to make a strong comeback, it’s undoubtedly the mechanical alarm.

The term ‘marine chronometer’ may, at face value, seem a tad too complex for the average watch enthusiast. What if you don’t have a yacht? More aptly, can someone who doesn’t even own a swimming pool justify the purchase of such a quintessentially-aquatic timepiece?

In short, yes, although modern marine chronometers carry the name of their predecessors, they are (thankfully) no longer used to navigate open oceans. Rather, the aesthetic of marine chronometers today has found great popularity in the watch industry due to its carefully-honed balance between subtlety and complexity.

It is this design ethos that defines the contemporary marine chronometer style – white dials with black printing, Roman numeral indices, sub-seconds dials, blue steel hands, and an onion-shaped crown. Of course, these are just the most common features of a class of watches that is both vast and varied.

The Storied History of The Original Tool Watch

Many, many moons ago, the ‘Longitude Problem’ was a significant issue for early sailors who struggled to precisely determine their position at sea. So, in 1714, the British government offered a large prize to anyone who could solve the problem.

John Harrison, a self-trained carpenter, and clockmaker entered the competition with a handcrafted marine chronometer, which he claimed could keep accurate time over long oceanic voyages. Although it wasn’t exactly right at first, Harrison eventually perfected the technology (it only took him 40 years), winning the prize and paving the way for the evolution of the marine chronometer.

Safe to say, this particular type of timekeeper is one of the most historically significant watches you can own – one that literally enabled people to successfully explore the earth.

Designed To Navigate, Built To Last

Although there are many definitive examples of the marine chronometer, the most reputable are undoubtedly the Patek Philippe 5119 Calatrava and A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Pour le Mérite.

With this being said, there are many more affordable options for entry into the marine chronometer club, with brands such as Steinhart, Longines, and Raymond Weil offering excellent watches at accessible price points. Let’s jump into the list and have a look at some of the best pieces available.

1. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5119G-001)

The Patek Philippe 5119 is a watch that exudes classic perfection, rising to the high expectations that are rightly placed on the Geneva watch giant. This modern (now discontinued) reference sits at a very wearable 36mm, replacing the 3919 model, originally released at 33mm in 1985.

With its Clou de Paris bezel, created using a diamond guilloché technique (basically, diagonal lines finished to a near-impossible brilliance), this sits in both the dress watch and marine chronometer camps. The austere dial with narrow black Roman numerals on white lacquer is representative of functional marine chronometers – clear and, therefore, easy to read at any angle.

The timepiece is powered by the 215 PS hand-wound movement with time-only complications, visible through the sapphire caseback, and has a ridiculously slim profile of just 2.55mm with 130 parts. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 44-hour power reserve. Patek’s 5119G is available in yellow, rose, or white gold with an alligator strap and pin buckle, although I personally love the classic feel of the white gold. It’s not cheap, but it’s worth every penny.

2.  A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Pour le Mérite (ref. 260.028)

The Richard Lange Pour le Mérite is a seriously limited edition timepiece, with each of the 218 units in existence built around a legendary movement (more on that shortly). The black face of this attractively pared-back watch is actually a solid silver dial in disguise, enwrapped by a 40.5mm white gold case with a sapphire caseback.

Narrow Roman numerals, continuous seconds at 6 o’clock, and a simple design with just four small red touches at the standard quartered positions decorate the dial. It’s a silently serious reference. Well-known for its wonderfully unique and historic mechanism, the fusée-and-chain transmission, Richard Lange’s mechanism essentially provides constant torque to improve the watch’s accuracy as the mainspring gradually runs down.

The chain is wrapped around the mainspring barrel and fusée, which provides infinitely variable gear ratios. A beautiful hand-wound movement is decorated with intricate engravings, including on the balance bridge, escape wheel, and fourth wheel cock. 

The detail in this piece is truly mind-boggling, and if you’ve got a spare $85,000 lying around, you’ll have plenty of time to wrap your head around it all.

3. Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (ref. 1-58-01-02-05-30)

Since 2009, Glashütte Original has paid homage to the town’s rich history of producing marine chronometers with their enthralling Senator Chronometer line. This version is a classic watch with a stark, contemporary twist, not dissimilar to many of the brand’s pieces.

For the technical geeks out there, rest assured – this timepiece is an officially certified chronometer with a power reserve indicator, a large panorama date, and a day/night display. It’s powered by a manually wound, in-house Calibre 58-01 movement with the stop-second feature, which automatically jumps the seconds hand to zero and moves the minute hand ahead to the next complete minute when the crown is pulled out. 

It’s a small technical detail but a very convenient one. The case is made of red gold and is 42mm in diameter and 12.3mm thick, with a brown Louisiana alligator leather strap and a folding clasp also in red gold. Honestly, the strap alone is a thing of rare beauty.

Despite its impressive build and high-end finish, the Senator Chronometer is a simple and precise watch, aligning aptly with the quest for legible accuracy that was once the primary objective for marine watchmakers. 

The movement has the superb Glashütte Original finish, with the three-quarter plate, screw-mounted glass chatons, and a hand-engraved balance cock. For such a profound example of German engineering, expect to pay roughly $30,000.

4. Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur (ref. 1183-310/40)

Ulysse Nardin has a respected record of creating marine chronometers (somehow, even their name sounds oceanic), and their Marine Torpilleur watch doesn’t deviate from that heritage. The brand’s founder specialized in marine chronometers, and in the late 19th and early 20th century, Ulysse Nardin even supplied many naval forces around the world with them.

However, it wasn’t until 1996, the brand’s 150th anniversary, that it debuted a limited edition Marine Chronometer wristwatch that was so successful it evolved into its own collection. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is a holistically easy-to-wear watch – the case, made of stainless steel, measures 42mm in diameter and features a fluted bezel, screw-down crown, and 50-meter water resistance.

The Marine Torpilleur is in some way based on a vintage Ulysse Nardin pocket watch with a similar dial design. Although it may appear a tad busy at first, upon closer inspection, one can’t help but appreciate just how well laid out and proportioned the elements of the dial are.

Complimented by a no-nonsense black leather strap, this piece is understated where it matters and detailed where it counts. The watch’s calibre UN-118 movement is self-winding, COSC chronometer-certified, and has a power reserve of about 60 hours.

The movement is made with Ulysse Nardin’s proprietary innovations, such as the use of synthetic diamonds to greatly reduce friction, thus increasing durability and extending power reserve. A sapphire crystal window makes up most of the caseback, which reveals the movement’s circular Cotes de Genève and an elaborate oscillating weight with two anchors that further the nautical theme.

5. Bell & Ross BR 01 Instrument de Marine

Bell & Ross released the Instrument de Marine collection in 2016, featuring three models inspired by 18th and 19th-century marine chronometers. The collection combines modern and traditional design elements. As we’ve come to expect from Bell & Ross’s square cases, this style leans more towards a modernist interpretation, which is nonetheless made of materials that pay tribute to the marine chronometer’s history – a bronze and rosewood case, with a more contemporary titanium caseback.

A 45mm case makes this a large-wearing time-keeper (slim-wristers, beware) with a white lacquer dial, black Roman numerals, and no date display. The slightly-odd brown alligator strap, which I personally would switch to a bracelet ASAP, and the bronze pin buckle complete the somewhat reductive look while adding a traditional touch to an otherwise very utilitarian watch.

Powered by the hand-wound BR-CAL.203 movement, a very reliable version of the ETA Unitas 6498 with 17 jewels, a power reserve of 56 hours, and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, this watch is limited to 500 pieces, so you may struggle to get your hands on one!

6. Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde

Aside from being a mouthful to pronounce, the Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde is perhaps the most ‘authentic-looking’ marine chronometer on this list. It features a fluted bezel, an enamel dial, and a small seconds sub-dial that gives it a sophisticated look reminiscent of some Breguet watches.

However, take a glance at the caseback, and you’ll see a much more robust, unapologetic layout – a wide, flat ring of steel encircles a small sapphire window to evoke a certain porthole aesthetic that just screams ‘maritime’. The matching blued steel hands and blue crocodile leather strap add a touch of luxury to the overall aesthetic, but I think this one really comes alive on the bracelet, which is an intricate 5-link design that drapes over the wrist comfortably.

Made of stainless steel, the case measures 42mm in diameter and 12.2mm in thickness and features Mühle-Glashütte’s signature vertically-brushed finish and volute-shaped lugs with polished top surfaces. It’s water-resistant to 100 meters, more than enough to protect the MU 9415 hand-wound movement, which has Glashütte’s characteristic three-quarter plate, woodpecker-neck regulation, and stop-second function for precision time-setting.

The movement also provides a 44-hour power reserve and fast date adjustment. The Mühle Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Kleine Sekunde costs $2,500 on the strap, but I’d definitely throw down a bit extra for the bracelet.

7. Wempe Chronometerwerke Power Reserve (ref. WG080007)

Wempe’s Chronometerwerke features a hand-wound movement, the CW3, which was designed and built by Wempe and had an edgy-looking power reserve indicator at the top of the dial, a logical and practical addition to any manually-wound watch.

It’s a bit of a large boy, with a steel case measuring 43mm across and 12.5mm thick, and as with all of the aforementioned timepieces, the movement is visible through a see-through caseback. The CW3 is decorated with traditional German watchmaking features, such as the large three-quarter plate with Glashütte wave decoration and a swan’s-neck adjustment for rate symmetry. 

The balance is unusually positioned at 12 o’clock, and performance is improved by laser-skeletonizing the escape wheel, pallets, and balance. In simpler terms, a lighter watch is a better watch. The company went as far as to establish its own testing institute in the Glashütte Observatory, where its watches are tested to the German standard DIN 8319, with precision requirements similar to COSC. It costs roughly $5200, a fitting price for a piece that excels at being both intriguingly different and reliably familiar.

8. Tourby Marine Roman 43

The most striking thing about the Tourby Marine Roman 43 is its case, which combines brushed and polished stainless steel finishes that please the eye in much the same way as Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu technique has done for years.

The dial is also impressive, featuring metallic blue hands and precise printed indicators set against a white dial. The same size as the Wempe, the case measures 43mm in diameter, is approximately 12mm thick, and sits on a black alligator strap with a pin buckle. 

The exhibition caseback showcases the beautiful hand-wound Unitas 6498.1 movement, which boasts a power reserve of 44-48 hours and runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hertz). The watch’s movement wheels can also be finished with a sunburst effect, and an optional folding clasp is available for the strap.

It is this customizability that makes the Tourby a very attractive purchase for those who value individuality above all else, especially as it’s priced at a very reasonable $1,550 and comes with a leather travel case. Overall, the Tourby Marine Roman might be the best value-for-money ticker on this list.

9. Raymond Weil Maestro Automatic Small Second (ref. 2238-STC-00659)

The Maestro, otherwise known as reference 2238-STC-00659, boasts a 40mm steel case with an alluringly slim profile, measuring only 10mm in thickness. It features the classic design elements of a marine chronometer-style watch but perhaps not where you might expect to find them – embellished hands are replaced by simple batons, while sans-serif Roman numerals ring around a multi-textural dial, the center of which showcases a wonderful circular guilloché detail. 

The result is a watch face that’s well-designed, compact, and balanced. The date window is subtle, and the small seconds sub-dial is strategically placed to ensure it doesn’t obstruct the numerals at the lower part of the dial.

The self-winding movement delivers 38 hours of power reserve, most likely an ETA 2895-2, visible through the sapphire caseback. A calf leather strap imprinted with an alligator motif is secured with a stainless steel folding clasp. This timepiece is priced at approximately $1300, making it an attractive entry point for the style.

10. Steinhart Marine Chronometer 44 (ref. M0509)

Steinhart is a watch brand known for its honorific nods to all aspects of watchmaking’s past, including its Marine collection, which celebrates John Harrison’s work on the first marine chronometer. The MC 44 has a classic design with a white lacquer dial and black numerals, blue poire hands, and a sub-dial for seconds at 6 o’clock.

Its polished bezel stands out against the brushed steel case, a nice touch in this price bracket, and the crown is truncated-conical, making it easy to grip when setting the time, although it does stick out a bit more than I’d like. 

This particular model features a 44mm case and a Unitas 6498-1 calibre movement made by ETA, known for its accuracy and legibility. The hand-wound movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour, which is about as precise as you can hope to get for the money.

A perfect choice for enthusiasts who appreciate the art of traditional watchmaking but don’t want to break the bank, it’s a classic design brought to life by a precision movement and bolstered by impressive attention to detail. Hard to beat in terms of value, this Steinhart is definitely worth a double take.

11. Stowa Marine Original Roman White

Despite its rather dull name, the Marine Original Roman is a great choice for anyone looking for a left-of-center watch that doesn’t sacrifice reliability or accuracy. With a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 12mm, it’s in the ‘safe zone’ for most wrists.

The high-polished white dial with slim, black numerals and blued steel hands speak to something slightly modern in terms of style. Perhaps it’s the way the seconds sub-dial cuts into the V and VII indices to create a floating effect of sorts. These little touches can really elevate the otherwise mundane into something far more exciting.

The movement is a hand-wound Unitas 6498-1, a beloved unit modified and finished by Stowa with a swan-neck regulator. It runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 46-50 hours. This isn’t Stowa’s first rodeo – their earliest watches of this type date back to 1939, so you can rest assured that you’re buying something that the firm has perfected over decades.

12. L. Leroy Automatic Deck Chronometer (ref. LL200/1)

This one is a dark horse. A black duck. You may have no expectations when it comes to L. Leroy’s LL200/1, perhaps because you’ve never heard of it or because it lacks the gravitas of some of the other ‘louder’ brands on this list.

I don’t blame you, but I do feel sorry for you because this is a watch worth knowing, particularly if you value high-quality pieces that fly (or sail) under the radar. It’s a distinctly masculine representation of the marine chronometer – a 43mm white gold case houses the officially-certified L511 automatic movement. 

A silver dial hosts Roman numeral hour markers and a minute track, which runs around a minimal guilloché center. The lines are hard, and the curves are definitive. There’s nothing soft about this watch except the way the lugs meet the leather strap.

Somehow though, it’s a very unassuming piece, leaving most of the really impressive features to the L511 – a 36-jewel automatic movement that oscillates at 28800 semi-oscillations per hour, decorated by an exclusive “grainé-champlevé” décor on the bridges, hand-chamfered, with raised mirror-polished markings and a 22-carat gold oscillating weight. The watch is truly something special, and if you’re a discerning individual who can foot the bill, I would recommend it every time.

13. Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale (ref. 5547BR/12/9ZU)

The Marine Alarme Musicale wristwatch is a standout on this list for one obvious reason – it makes a little noise at the time that you want it to, thanks to its rather handy alarm feature. The self-winding watch includes an indicator for the alarm time, the alarm’s power reserve, and whether the alarm is on or off.

Additionally, it features a second time-zone display (very practical for travelers). Aesthetically, it’s certainly the most boisterous entry here, with an 18k rose gold case, matching gold hands that float over an intricate silver dial, and rather prominent Roman numerals with a lume-fill at every hour except six (thanks to the date window). 

The watch comes with a sapphire caseback, a screw-locked crown, another standard crown, and a pusher. It has a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 13mm (that alarm complication has to go somewhere) and can be purchased with a leather or rubber strap, with the option of a gold bracelet. Strangely enough, I feel like the rubber strap works best on this one, as it provides a sense of austerity, contrasting the otherwise busy-luxe composition of the Marine Alarme Musicale.

Finally, the watch is driven by Breguet’s calibre 519F/1, which features an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, a flat balance spring in silicon, contains 36 jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 45 hours. You can have all this and not a thing more for a mere $ 42,000. A word of advice – try before you buy.

14. Junghans Tempus Power Reserve (ref. 028/4725.01)

The Junghans Tempus Power Reserve watch pays tribute to the company’s founder, Erhard Junghans, who pioneered and innovated German watchmaking. The watch employs a timeless design with – you guessed it – a small seconds sub-dial and stunningly reductive power reserve indicator.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 41.8mm in diameter and 10.8mm in thickness, with water resistance up to 3 bar. My only gripe with this lovely piece is that it would be so much more in vogue if it were, say, 39mm, whereby it could play the dual role of marine chronometer and dress watch effortlessly. 

Nonetheless, there’s plenty to love here, still. The self-winding J830.5 movement powers the watch, running at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hertz), and has a power reserve of 48 hours. Arguably my favorite dial of the lot, there’s a wonderful contrast between new and old here – elongated Roman numerals push the face outward while bespoke modern lettering centers it all, despite being, well, off-center. Reference 028/4725.00 costs $3,500, and given that it somehow stands alone in a very competitive field, I’d say that’s a price worth paying.

15. Longines Master Collection Power Reserve (ref. L2.708.4.51.6)

Full disclosure – I’m not a Longines guy. They haven’t reinvented the wheel with this watch. There’s nothing spectacular or outwardly engrossing about the way it looks or even about its movement. However, this is a watch that has a very useful superpower – it goes with anything and will never, ever look out of place.

There’s real value in that kind of stylistic security. The Longines Master Collection is a prime example of the company’s skill in making reliable watches that don’t rock the boat (pun intended). A 38.5mm stainless steel case houses on its face a black dial with white Roman numerals, a central seconds hand, and a power reserve indicator where the usual sub-dial would be, and that’s it.

Beneath the unassuming dial lies the L602 automatic movement made by ETA (calibre 2897), which has a power reserve of 42 hours and runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The transparent caseback reveals the movement, and the watch has a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp that can be conveniently operated by pushers. 

For $2,350, there’s enough watch here to keep an experienced enthusiast happy for a long time and a beginner collector mightily intrigued until their next purchase. 

For The Explorer In All Of Us

With that, I’m hopeful that I’ve demystified the marine chronometer for some readers while perhaps encouraging others to add another (much-needed) MC to their collections. Strangely enough, there’s a tendency for people to become obsessed with watches that fill such a specific stylistic and cultural bracket, and these timepieces certainly are no exception. 

Even though the majority of marine chronometers are being worn at dinner events and in cars, as opposed to on the open ocean, I’m sure (as are you) that the historical reputation of this particular type of timepiece isn’t lost on the wearer, no matter the circumstance. So I suggest you try one on, not only to see how it fits but to see how it feels.