Category: Watch Reviews

Maybe you’ve always thought owning a decent watch with a high price tag isn’t for someone at your wage level. You probably already know that owning a quality watch is a meaningful investment that may turn into a family heirloom or a rite of passage, but alas! You’ve been buying knock-off watches every year!

Come on! A timepiece is way more than a time-telling machine and is worth splurging on. Just as family matriarchs sometimes pass down treasured items, high-end watches have an inherent value that can be passed down to future generations.

But there’s a common crisis we all go through once we’ve made up our minds to seal the deal and pay for the watch we always wanted. A second dilemma. Which brand? Which design? Which material?

Getting a luxury watch is a major life decision, and the weight of responsibility to get it right often rests solely on the shoulders of the potential buyer, but hey, we are here to help!

Whether you’re marking a personal milestone or you’ve set some money aside to finally bring home your horological love, here are 12 exciting, exclusive, and extravagant timepieces under $20,000.

What To Look For In Watches Under $20,000.

High-end watches are a class of their own, and they are called Haute Horlogerie for a reason. Their very raison d’être has always been to catch the eye of top collectors, and they come with features to back this claim.

It is important to consider a few points before purchasing one because of their premium price tag and because getting one is an emotional investment. That said, here are a few points to consider before making that payment.

1. Watch Purpose

Beyond time telling, a watch is (and will always be) an intricate piece of hardware that expresses our personality. Watches come with intriguing features aside from telling the time, and these additions are called complications.

There are various complications designed to serve different purposes, so you should decide which is best for you. The most common include a tourbillon, a Day-Date complication, a moon phase, a perpetual calendar, an annual calendar, and a chronograph, which measures elapsed time and GMT. 

People who travel across many countries for business or leisure will find this world time function necessary. Again there are ‘tool’ watches which are a great option for daily wear and can easily be taken along rugged and even aquatic adventures. And dress watches which are versatile everyday timepieces for formal and informal occasions.

2. Brand Reputation

While most high-end watches from recognized brands with premium prices are designed and crafted to outlast their owners, not all proffer a statement of power and prestige. Certain watch manufacturers enjoy a global reputation for consistently delivering high-quality timepieces.

It is best to buy a watch from a reputable watchmaker if you want your timepiece to stand the test of time and convey a distinctive fashion flair.

A luxury watch is an enduring symbol of taste and class, and some of the big names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Blancpain have secured their places as world leaders in haute horlogerie.

3. Build Quality & Finishing

The build quality and finishing are just some of the major factors you should consider when getting your luxury timepiece.

The build quality generally depends on how well the watch was constructed and designed, including the state of the machinery. You should inspect the watch you plan to purchase for defects, scratches, dents, and/or any imperfections on the case, crown, buckle, strap, dial, etc.

The finishing entails the last-minute touches given to the internal and external components of the watch. Watches with exquisite shine and smoothness represent the ultimate expression of the fine craft of watchmaking.

Be sure to buy your watch from an official brand retailer to get the right quality and official packaging with a warranty.

4. Movement

The movement of a watch is the internal mechanism or engine that drives it. It is what makes the functions and complications operate, and a good movement (or caliber) will keep time reliably. Mechanical, automatic, and quartz are the three primary types of watch movement.

High-quality movements are sometimes hand-made or hand finished and polished; the best movements are COSC-chronometer certified. To attain this, the movement must pass various stringent tests over a 15-day period and fall between – 4 and + 6 seconds.

Bad movements can lose significant minutes per day and have inconsistent tick speeds, so be sure to go for a reliable movement from a reputable brand.

5. Value Retention

Certain watches make for excellent investment pieces. Buying and selling high-end watches can be a minefield of disappointing slopes for the untrained, which is why you must secure your investment by selecting watches that hold their value.

Many timepieces out there plummet in value the second they are unboxed, while others can be sold after some years for a profit under the right circumstances.

Some factors that lead to watches holding value include; brand recognition, heritage, exclusivity, availability, celebrity/movie affinity, and demand. Watches from prestigious brands like Rolex are known to retain their value and make for great investment pieces.

Remember to have your timepiece checked by a qualified professional about every five years and service it whenever advised to avoid expensive damages.

The 12 Best Watches Under $20,000

1. Rolex GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLNR)

Starting this list is none other than an iconic timepiece from the King of Haute Horology. Some misguided enthusiasts consider Rolex watches as nothing more than a status symbol that gained popularity only because they are extravagant timepieces destined to end up in fiercely guarded private collections.

How ignorant! Rolex became so popular in the first place because each watch from the Swiss Marque is hand-assembled, hand-tested, and offers incredibly high quality and longevity. 

Rolex’s raison d’être appears to be to break world records every single time, a feat they have largely accomplished since they began manufacturing avant-garde timepieces in 1905. The GMT Master II collection is part of the brand’s professional watch collection, with a lineup of robust timepieces that displays the time in two different time zones simultaneously.

The Ref. 126710BLNR is the pinnacle of the collector’s dream timepiece and is presented on a 40mm Oystersteel case with a height of 12.5mm in line with the rest of the collection. The case is entirely satin-brushed with a screw-down Triplock crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The bezel is a 24-hour GMT that combines black and blue Cerachrom flawlessly. 

The watch features the same gloss black found on contemporary professional Rolex models and is powered by the new in-house manufacture caliber 3285. Expect to spend around $17,000 in the secondary market for a like-new piece.

2. Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue 44mm (ref. 421.NX.5170.RX)

Founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, Hublot’s obsession with unusual materials has revolutionized the watchmaking universe. Amidst the wide array of big and bold timepieces, the Big Bang Unico Titanium stands out and can best be expressed as the epitome of “more is more.”

The unique watch is presented in a 44 mm satin-finished and polished titanium case which obviously would be overwhelming on a small wrist. Despite the size, the watch is substantially light thanks to the use of high-quality grade 5 titanium which also offers high corrosion resistance and retains a slightly bluish metallic sheen when polished.

The matte blue skeletonized dial is pretty busy at first glance but, trust me, after wearing it for a few days, it won’t appear cluttered in any way. The dial features a 60-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, we have continuous seconds. If you look closely at the 3 o’clock sub-dial, you’ll find the date subtly positioned within.

Visible from both sides is the caliber HUB1280. Hublot calls it a UNICO manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a column wheel. The movement consists of 354 components and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The watch retails for $19,154 on Hublot’s website.

3. Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6

Breguet is a brand that deserves more attention. The Swiss watchmaker produces some of the most elegant timepieces in the world with such exquisite designs that should make members of royal families and Hollywood A-listers empty their pockets. 

The Breguet Classique 5157BR/11/9V6 is one of those watches that will make anyone turn their head towards your wrist, even if they’re mildly interested in the fine art of watchmaking. The watch seamlessly demonstrates the brand’s “savoir-faire” and is presented in a splendid 38mm 18ct rose gold case with a  slim profile of only 5.45mm.

The watch is all about purity and is extremely clean, simple, and captivating with a 2-hand display. The engine-turned “guilloché” dial is the easiest feature to spot as it steals the show while complimenting the gold case superlatively.

The dial has been kept as pure as possible and features a charming “clous de Paris” pattern in the center. Moving away from the center, you will notice circular brushed surfaces for the hour ring and, lastly, a “pavé de Paris” cobbling to distinguish the indication. The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 with a 45h power reserve. It retails for approx. $19,850

4. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding (ref. 81180/000G-9117)

Vacheron Constantin is a brand that has produced some of the most complicated and impressive timepieces in history. It is also one of the world’s top luxury watch brands, with ultra-high-end watches produced in the strictest manner to adhere to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. 

The Patrimony Manual-Winding Ref. 81180/000G-9117 is an example of the horological brilliance of the longstanding Maison and is presented in a 40mm white gold case. 

The watch is incredibly versatile with downward sloping lugs which ensures the watch sits snugly on the wrist with the help of a black Alligator leather strap. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, the classic dress watch is an aesthetic and mechanical delight. The dial is elegant, pure, and enchanting, with a flawless minimalist design.

It features slender applied white-gold hour markers, dauphine hands that are mirror polished on one side only, and a graceful Maltese Cross above ‘Vacheron Constantin’. It is powered by the in-house caliber 1400, a manual-winding movement that meets the standards of the Geneva Seal. It beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 40 hours. Expect to spend around $20,000 for the Ref. 81180/000G-9117.

5. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1130-52)

Blancpain is one of the oldest surviving brands, with roots dating back to 1735. The brand is known for producing classically styled timepieces with avant-garde technicalities. Exploring the depths of the diver’s history and evolution is impossible without talking about Blancpain.

The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms is widely recognized as the first dive watch. And whether we like it or not, Blancpain belongs in the Hall of Fame, next to legendary brands like Rolex and Omega. Fifty Fathoms, one of the earliest creations of the innovative brand, has remained an iconic and successful diving watch since its introduction in the 1950s.

Like many groundbreaking inventions, the Fifty Fathoms was born out of necessity. It was adopted by military diving units worldwide immediately after its launch and became an essential part of many divers’ kits. The Ref. 5015-1130-52 continues the outstanding legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 45mm stainless steel case with a height of 15.5mm.

The matte black dial keeps the spirit of the Fifty Fathoms alive by remaining highly legible and uncluttered. The watch is powered by the Caliber 1315, an automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve. It retails for approximately $16,000.

6. Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61)

The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Ref. 1-90-02-11-35-61 is an elegant, clean, and poetic timepiece with immaculate aesthetics and clear graphics.

Inspired by high-end antique pocket watches, the case, which is made of 18-carat red gold, is exquisite and striking with juxtaposed polished and satin-brushed surfaces and strongly curved lugs. 

Turning the watch over will reveal a sapphire exhibition case back which offers a splendid view of the self-winding movement within the timepiece. The Calibre 90-02 is a beautifully refined in-house movement that can store about 42 hours of energy when fully wound. It features a large date, off-centered hours and minutes, a small second, and a moon phase indication.

The movement features nicely chamfered angles, highly polished steel parts, and thermally blued screws. The brand’s iconic “Duplex Swan Neck Regulator” heightens its appeal and includes hand-engraved balance cocks. 

The dial is what you’d expect from a distinctly German Maison with superlative watchmaking craftsmanship. It is perfectly structured and looks quite balanced and uncluttered despite the numerous indications it hosts. The watch sells for $10,000 and is fitted with a blue alligator leather strap.

7. Grand Seiko Sport Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC229

Launched at BaselWorld in 2019 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Nissan GT-R, the SBGC229 is just one of the ways Grand Seiko chose to express its DNA. The statement piece feels innately automotive and is dressed in “Bayside Blue”, from the GT-R’s iconic blue color.

The case is made up of high-intensity titanium and Grand Seiko’s blue ceramic. It measures 46.4mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 52.5mm. Ceramic has been used for the outer case only (including the bezel) since ceramic is highly scratch-resistant, while titanium is used on the inside.

The white crocodile strap is also a fitting tribute to Nissan’s classic sports car, with blue stitching that is in perfect aesthetic harmony with the blue of the case. The silvery-white textured dial has a grained surface with dark blue accents.

The dial is busy and houses totalizers for hours and minutes, a date window at 3:00, an inner and outer ring (each representing 30 seconds), the typical Spring Drive power reserve indicator, and expertly finished hour indices and handset. The watch retails for $21,000 and is powered by the Spring Drive 9R96, rated to be accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

8. Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White” (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

The Calibre 321 is the holy grail of the Speedy collection and was incredibly well-received when it was introduced in 2019. Designed by Lemania’s Albert Piguet, the resurrected legendary caliber 321 is the same one found in the pre-moon references. What’s more, this revered movement is what powered the 145.012, which was worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the moon.

It is named “Ed White” because it pays respect to Astronaut Ed White, an aeronautical engineer and the first American to walk in space in 1965. During the Gemini IV space flight mission, Ed was equipped with the Speedmaster 105.003.

The Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001 honors this legend and comes in a stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.7 mm across. The case is identical to the vintage model and features classic straight lugs and an unprotected crown flanked by two pushers. The matte black dial has a fine grainy texture and a ‘step’ profile, which means the minute track sits lower than the rest of the dial.

There are three recessed chronograph registers at 3, 6, and 9, showing off the running seconds, elapsed hours, and elapsed minutes, respectively. The timepiece is limited in production each year and sells for $14,100.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox (ref. Q903818J)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watchmaker with nearly 200 years of innovation and creativity pushing horology’s boundaries. The Swiss luxury watch brand was founded by Antoine LeCoultre and is famous for Its complete in-house manufacturing process.

All of its watches are of very high quality and are crafted to perfection with meticulous attention to detail. The Polaris Mariner Memovox pays tribute to the Memovox sports watches of the 1950s, whose built-in alarm was an extremely practical feature.

Memovox is a combination of two Latin words, ‘memor’, and ‘vox’, literally meaning “the voice of memory”. The alarm timepieces activated an acoustic signal to alert divers when to resurface divers after a defined time.

The Ref. Q903818J displays the epic characters of this prestigious lineage and comes in a 42mm stainless steel case. The case features a splendid mix of brushed and polished surfaces with three crowns.

The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters and adheres to the ISO 6425 standard. As a professional dive watch, the dial is highly legible, with the hands, numerals, and hour markers all treated with two colors of Super-LumiNova. It is powered by JLC’s automatic caliber 956 with 44 hours of power reserve. This watch sells for $ 19,300 on the brand’s website.

10. H. Moser & Cie Heritage Dual Time (ref. 8809-1200)

Founded by Heinrich Moser in 1828, H. Moser & Cie is a luxury watch brand that has built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces. All of its watches have consistently demonstrated quality craftsmanship and mechanisms of the highest standard. 

The Dual Time Ref. 8809-1200 is a highly seductive watch that fuses the aesthetics of historical Moser pocket watches with contemporary vibes. The watch features a 42mm round stainless steel case with wire lugs and a large onion crown that bears a resemblance to the iconic pilot watches of the 1920s.

As its name states, the watch displays two time zones simultaneously. There is a third skeletonized hand similar in length to the hour hand for the dual time zone function. The main hand is sword-shaped, and both have a generous application of Super-LumiNova.

The burgundy fumé dial with sunburst pattern is enchanting and is adorned with applied Arabic numerals crafted from a ceramic-based material known as Globolight. Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house HMC 809 self-winding caliber that provides 72 hours of power reserve. The watch costs about $20,000.

11. Panerai Submersible Bronzo (ref. PAM00968)

Bronze, an alloy of copper and pure tin, is a metal with tough properties widely used in the marine field. Apart from being highly resistant to saltwater corrosion, it is also fairly scratch-resistant and is known to acquire a stable oxidized layer after some time.

The oxidation layer preserves its structural integrity and gives it a warm and beautiful patina as time goes on. The patina-friendly material is a favorite choice for dive watches, and Panerai was the brand that sparked the bronze mania.

The Submersible Bronzo Ref. PAM00968 carries on the legacy of its predecessors and is presented in a 47mm bronze case which, according to Panerai, comprises 161 grams of heavy metal for modern heroes only.

The case of the watch features a patented classic bridge device that can be seen protecting the winding crown. This focus of the brown dial is on simplicity and legibility, and as with all Panerai dive watches, it does not disappoint.

There are bold luminous hour markers and dots, a small seconds indication at 9 o’clock, and a neat date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by the in-house P.9010 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. It is rated water-resistant to 300 meters and is priced at $17,500.

12. Bell & Ross BR-X1 Black Titanium (ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC)

Presented in a 45mm grade-5 titanium case, the Ref. BRX1-CE-TI-BLC from Bell & Ross is a timepiece that made waves during its launch at Baselworld six years ago. The square case design is eccentric, with a round bezel and ergonomically-constructed rocker pushers with rubber inserts.

Resting above the skeletonized movement is a transparent sapphire plate used as the dial. It features a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock for elapsed chronograph minutes and indexes of the running second, printed directly on the sapphire disc at 3 o’clock. There is an applied track on the periphery and a logo and inscription below 12, all printed in gun-metal silver color.

A small aperture for the date lies nearly at six o’clock, while the hours and minutes are indicated by metal applique Super-LumiNova-filled indices. The watch is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes mounted on a woven black rubber. Expect to spend around $18,000 for a new piece.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the 12 best watches under $20,000. I hope this brief review has offered you great options for some of the most exclusive and exquisite timepieces. Whether you are buying your first luxury watch or gifting yourself a new watch to celebrate a special occasion, Exquisite Timepieces is here to help you. Check out our large selection of authentic luxury watches for sale from world-renowned luxury brands.

Without Swatch, it is pretty likely that the modern Swiss watch industry would not exist, at least not in the way it does today. Their innovative marketing, attractive and culturally relevant designs, and affordable prices have made them extremely popular. 

Swatch watches were always intended to be mass-produced items, but the brand’s widespread popularity made them collectible. With the brand celebrating 40 years in 2023, it is remarkable that a brand could make such a large cultural impact within watches, fashion, and general consumerism in a relatively short period of time. 

History of Swatch

Swatch was founded by Jacques Müller, Ernst Thomke, and Elmar Mock in 1983. Swatch’s goal was to recapture the entry-level market that the Swiss had lost due to the quartz crisis. At the time, Ernst Thomke was the CEO of ETA SA, the movement manufacturer, with Mock and Müller serving as engineers on the team.

Marketing consultant Franz Sprecher was brought on the team to provide a different perspective, bringing in the fashion-oriented element. Jacques Irniger was hired to help with the marketing, and on March 1st, 1983, Swatch was launched with 12 models.

Prices ranged from 39.90 to 49.90 CHF but were adjusted to 50 CHF within the year. Because of an aggressive marketing campaign and attractive price, Swatch became an instant hit. The involvement of the famed entrepreneur Nicolas G. Hayek did not start until 1985, when he and a group of Swiss investors took a majority shareholder position in Swatch.

Their holdings were consolidated under the Societe Suisse de Microelectronique et d’Horlogerie. When Hayek became CEO in 1986, the name was changed to the Swatch Group that we know today. 

Swatch Watches

As mentioned, Swatch watches are mass-produced watches with fashion-oriented designs at generally affordable prices. The first Swatch watches were made of plastic cases with plastic/rubber straps and quartz movements. The name Swatch comes from the contraction of “second watch.”

The idea that you would wear your Swatch when wearing your nice watch was not appropriate, or you wanted something more casual. Should your Swatch stop working, you were instructed to throw it away and replace it with a new one.

Not only did this incentivize buying more Swatches, but also subtly pointed at the consumer’s “need” for a more serious luxury watch. Swatch’s creativity did not stop at the concept of the brand. The original models were plastic, but they later expanded into metal cases and automatic movements while maintaining affordability.

Additionally, they would frequently collaborate with artists and designers for limited editions, increasing popularity and collectibility. This generated a group of collectors focused on Swatch and its limited editions, perpetuating enthusiasm for the brand. 

Notable Vintage Swatches

Swatch GK100 SP “The Jelly Fish”

While an equivalent model is in the current catalog, the originals were part of the brand’s launch in 1983. Limited to 200 pieces, the transparent case and strap showed off the watch’s charming attributes, revealing the quartz movement’s inner workings and simple case construction. They were so popular that Swatch is rumored to have made an additional 300 for VIP clients. 

Additionally, different versions have been made since then, and this model’s popularity continues. While incomplete versions (lacking box and papers) can be found for a few hundred dollars, a 1983 original with all of the original box and papers can be upwards of a few thousand dollars. 

Kiki Picasso Special Edition

Released in 1985 as a special edition of 120 watches, with each having a unique dial variation, the Kiki Picasso (no relation to Pablo Picasso or his family) edition holds the record for the highest price achieved at auction for a Swatch, selling for $22,600. 

With the release, limited edition posters were handed out with different dial variations. While others were released that were not on the poster, the ones featured on the poster command the highest prices. If having ultimate Swatch bragging rights is the goal, this is one to chase after.

Keith Haring Special Editions

The popular artist collaborated with Swatch in 1986 for a limited edition series consisting of four different models. Given both the artist’s and Swatch’s popularity at the time, these models have become highly desirable. A complete set of the original four watches sold at auction in 2016 for $3000. 

Swatch has also recently collaborated with Haring’s estate, releasing watches based on the artist’s interpretation of Mickey Mouse. In doing so, Swatch managed to create a future collectible while also ensuring the future collectability of past models. 

Swatch Tresor Magique

To celebrate the 10-year anniversary of the brand, Swatch went big and released the Swatch Tresor Magique as a 12,999-piece limited edition. While not truly limited like other editions, speculation leads that Swatch thought this would be a huge success. It did have a barrier to entry; a price tag of $1619 back in 1993. The reason for the high price tag? A case made of high-polished platinum. 

The Swatch Tresor Magique contained an ETA 2840 automatic movement inside the 34mm platinum case. The watch came with more premium packaging, additional straps, and a strap tool. Contrary to other Swatch watches, the case back is snap-on, allowing for access and servicing of the movement. 

Should you want to be more tongue-in-cheek about precious metal watch collecting, this would be a great option. Good examples with all the original packaging are still available for under $3000. 

Swatch Diaphane One

Jumping ahead to 2001, Swatch, and Swatch Group, have become major players in the watch industry, and mechanical watches are here to stay. To show off their watch-making abilities, Swatch released the Diaphane One. 

The watch features a movement where the main plate containing the balance spring is featured on the dial side and rotates once every thirty minutes. This serves as a pseudo-carousel/tourbillon movement without the complication of smaller internal cages. The mechanical hand-wound movements were skeletonized and highly decorated. The outer case was still plastic, but the inner one was aluminum.

Definitely aimed at a luxury buyer, the 2222 limited edition retailed for 3300 Euros back in 2001. Today, examples can be found for around $4000. This edition is definitely for the Swatch enthusiast who is also a complicated watch enthusiast. 

Swatch FLYMAGIC

Used to unveil Swatch’s development and use of their anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring in 2019, the FLYMAGIC takes the Sistem51 architecture and reverses it, placing the winding, balance spring, gear-train, and time-telling aspects of the watch on the dial side to be viewed by the wearer. 

The Nivachron escapement is a technological feat, as it reduces the impact of magnetic fields on timekeeping up to a factor of 10, depending on the movement. Being entirely Swiss-made, it can easily be boasted as a point of pride for the Swatch Group. 

Since 2019, the Nivachron hairspring has made its way into many watches within Swatch Group’s portfolio. Even other Sistem51 timepieces feature the Nivachron hairspring, allowing even entry-level collectors to boast this watchmaking feat on their wrists.

The FLYMAGIC originally retailed for $1500 but can be found under $3000 currently, showing it has gained some value as a collectible since 2019. 

Who Is Swatch Collecting For?

With desirable models collecting high premiums at auction and good, working examples being difficult to find, it is understandable why this may scare away more casual watch collectors. 

The good news is that many models are still very affordable, and the high-end of the achieved prices stated are reserved for pristine examples of rare models with all of their original packaging. 

That means everything else in Swatch’s 40-year history that is less than pristine, rare, and desirable is still relatively obtainable. Pristine examples of less rare or popular watches can often be found close to their original retail price. If a little wear and tear are okay, more collectible models can be had at reasonable prices. 

There are a few good resources online for vintage Swatch watches, should you be interested in learning more. Swatchvintagecollection.com and swatchandbeyond.com both serve as great resources for information, along with having watches for sale. Vintageradar.com also has a nice selection of vintage Swatch watches, should you like someone else to do the vetting process for you. 

Through research and knowledge, you may even garner the confidence to go to online auctions to find the model you desire. With that, past listings are also a good place to find information.

Conclusion

With a 40-year back-catalog of seasonal releases on top of special and limited editions, that means that Swatch collecting can be tailored to individual tastes. From the more restrained and reserved to outlandish and bold and everything in between, there is likely at least a Swatch or two that will gain your interest. 

Because of this, Swatch collecting still maintains the original ethos of the brand; there is Swatch for almost everyone. 

So you want to buy a dress watch under $10,000? Excellent!! You already know you want something special. Whether you need it as part of your expanding collection of fine watches or you’re hunting for that one treasure that will become a family heirloom, getting the right dress watch can be daunting.

Reserved for business and formal occasions, a dress watch is an immaculate tribute to the fine art of watchmaking. The first appearance of a dress watch can be traced to the beginning of the 20th century when men began transitioning from pocket watches to elegant wristwatches. Dress watches are a must-have in any collection and are normally characterized by a fuss-free minimalistic design, making them pair flawlessly with suits, jackets, and other formal attires.

The inexplicable charm of a classic dress watch is known to bring untold satisfaction to the wearer, and this is just one of the many reasons why a dress watch will always be in vogue. From Patek Philippe’s Calatrava to Rolex’s Datejust 36, here are some of the best dress watches in the Haute Horlogerie universe under $10,000. 

What to Look for in Dress Watches Under $10,000

Whether you desire to have a quintessential status symbol in your possession or something practical and refined, taking your horological love home isn’t as simple as pulling out your credit card and saying I do. There are a couple of things you need to be informed about, which is why we put this short guide to help you make an informed decision.

Appearance

A timepiece is way more than a utilitarian timekeeping device. It is designed to significantly enhance looks and add an air of sophistication to your apparel, so consider the following.

The Case

Made up of the case back, bezel, and main body, including the lugs, the case of a dress watch is what protects the movement and gives a distinct character to the timepiece.

Every dress watch under $10,000 should have a classic, elegant, and refined case. Steel is the most ubiquitous material in use, even though gold, titanium, platinum, ceramic, and other hybrid materials are often used in the production of cases.

Look out for a fitting dimension depending on the size of your wrist. Most dress watches fall between 34 mm to 40 mm; however, be sure that the profile is thin enough to slide under your cuffs. It should also feature a highly scratch-resistant glass-like sapphire crystal and exquisite finishing.

Dial

Visible through the protective glass is the face of the watch or the dial. Its primary function is to display the time. But beyond that, the overall aesthetic allure of the entire timepiece depends largely on the dial. 

A true dress watch should have a dial void of all excesses. Look out for a dial with a clean, elegant, and minimalistic look with graceful numerals or hour markers and a simple handset.

Though there’s no hard and fast rule, it’s best to stick to black, gray, silver, or white dials with no unnecessary complications in the display.

Strap/Bracelet

The strap/bracelet of a watch is what fastens it around your wrist. It is also called a watch band and may be made of leather, rubber, plastic, or other materials. When it’s made from metal, it is called a bracelet. It is best to opt for a comfortable strap that exudes class and quality. 

The color of the strap is also important, and you should make a selection depending on your style preferences. While metal straps provide durability and are relatively easier to take care of, leather straps are more comfortable, lightweight, and fashionable.

Brand Reputation

Brand reputation is simply the public perception that customers, employees, and partners hold about a brand. Watch manufacturers take years of hard work to build a high degree of trust among their customers, which translates to the “status element” attached to different brands.

Swiss-made watches are reputed to be the best in the world, with legendary watchmakers who have built their enterprise upon the history and heritage of exquisite craftsmanship. Getting a watch from a reputable brand increases the watch’s value and attaches to it a timeless prestige.

There’s also the satisfaction that comes to the wearer just knowing that the watch brand they are wearing is recognized and appreciated. Buying your dress watch from a reputable brand that has built confidence and loyalty by consistently delivering high-quality watches to ensure longevity is important.

Build Quality & Finishing

The degree to which a timepiece is fit and free of all defeats is the build quality. For the build quality of a dress watch under $10,000 to be considered good, the quality of the materials used must be top-notch. Be sure to select a watch that is durable and will last for a very long time in good condition.

Check the spec sheet to find out what kind of material was used for the watch, and never buy a low-quality watch simply because it looks good. The finishing is a final touch performed to decorate the watch and offer it a more refined look. 

Movement

The movement (or caliber) of a watch is the internal engine that supplies energy to the timepiece and makes it run. It is one of the most important parts of the timepiece that drives whatever complication the watch features and moves the hands.

The three main types of movements include; quartz, manual-wind, and automatic. Quartz watches are powered by batteries and electricity. Automatic watches, on the other hand, are self-winding, while manually-wound watches require you to wind the crown every so often to avoid running out.

Mechanical watches are often appreciated more by collectors because they make excellent heirloom watches and are exquisitely decorated.

Value Retention

Here is one last crucial element; value retention. This is the difference between what you pay for a dress watch and what it eventually sells for a couple of years later. Not every luxury watch retains its value after you leave the store, and if you’re looking for a timepiece with a good return on investment, it’s best to consider this point carefully.

A couple of factors determine whether or not a watch will hold its value. They include brand prestige, rarity, aesthetics, and exclusive mechanical movements (especially if it’s in-house). Of course, you have to ensure that the watch is well maintained if you want it to retain its value, so treat your timepiece and all its accessories with as much care as possible.

The Best Dress Watches Under $10,000

1. Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

Priced at $6,700, the Omega De Ville Trésor Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 is a perfect demonstration of exquisite craftsmanship from one of the most iconic and famous luxury watch brands in the world. The dress watch has a superlative aesthetic sensibility and comes in a steel case that measures 40mm across.

The timepiece pays tribute to the first model of the Omega Trésor line, which was released way back in 1949. That said, the design and personality of Ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001 encapsulates the bewitching charm of vintage watches from the 1950s.

The case has a sleek profile and measures 10.1mm in height. As you would expect from a reputable brand with decades of watch-making expertise, the case is highly polished throughout and features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

The domed opaline silvery dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible with hands and indexes in 18K white gold. The placement of the date window at 6 o’clock and the logo and brand name at 12 respects the elegant symmetry of the dial.

The watch houses the legendary 30mm Calibre 8910 that guarantees the Swiss industry’s highest standard of precision. It is visible via the transparent case back.

2. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW259

Grand Seiko is a fast-rising luxury watchmaker with divine prowess in crafting aesthetically magnificent watches. The brand is distinguished for being the premium sibling of the highly famous Japanese watch manufacturer; Seiko. Grand Seiko’s passion for pushing boundaries has made it a top-tier watchmaker today.

The Ref. SBGW259 from the Elegance Collection is an attestation to the creativity of the brand’s master craftsman. The timepiece, a recreation of the first ever Grand Seiko produced in December 1960, was launched in 2020 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of that icon.

The design codes are highly respected. The shape of the watch is identical to the first of its kind but now comes in a Brilliant Hard Titanium case exclusive only to the brand. The case now measures 38mm (as opposed to 35mm) and features the ‘Zaratsu polishing’, which makes Grand Seiko’s cases so attractive.

The dial is instantly recognizable as a production from the luxury brand and features perfectly finished mirror-polished hands and indexes executed in the traditional Japanese way with profound attention to detail. It is powered by the Calibre 9S64, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.

3. Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (ref. 6651 1143 55B)

watches of all time. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has demonstrated exquisite craftsmanship and incomparable aesthetic sensibility in all its watches since its founding by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in the year 1735.

Ultraplate means  “ultra flat”, and that is what sets the Ref. 6651 1143 55B apart. The classic dress watch features a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of just 8.35mm. The slim profile of the watch, coupled with the short lugs, means the watch will easily accommodate a range of wrists.

The stark dial features polished silver Roman numerals affixed to the dial by hand. The slender, open-worked leaf hands bring depth to the simple design of the dial, while the discreet date window at 3 maintains the symmetry and adds to its appeal.

The Caliber 1151, with an ultra-slim height of just 3.25mm, provides a robust 4-day power reserve. The watch is priced at $10,400 and comes fitted with a classic black alligator strap. You can get it here.

4. Glashütte Original Sixties (ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04)

Glashütte is one of the most famous German watchmakers, firmly positioned among the top-tier watch manufacturers in the world. The Sixties collection debuted in 2007. The watches’ inspiration comes from vintage Spezimatic timepieces manufactured during the German Democratic Republic (GDR) era from 1949 to 1990.

The Ref. 1-39-52-04-02-04 is a unique one-of-a-kind timepiece that is enchanting, making it a highly coveted watch among collectors. The watch is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with a height of 9.40mm. The diminutive dimensions are enhanced by short lugs and a curved sapphire crystal case back, making the watch exceptionally comfortable to wear.

The retro dial is the undisputed champion of the show and comes with striking features that will charm the wearer endlessly. The stick and Arabic numerals are slightly curved to homogenize with the curved dial.

The galvanized black dial is captivating with a matte surface that has a pronounced rough surface which adds depth to the watch. The watch is powered by a Glashütte Original manufacture movement, the Caliber 39-52, with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. You can get it here.

5. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme (ref. J007010240)

Founded in 1721 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for producing complex and intricate timepieces. The prestigious Maison, which is currently part of the Swatch Group’s Prestige and Luxury division, is the world’s 36th most recognized Swiss brand.

Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case, the Ref. J007010240 pays tribute to the first grande seconde model released in 1785. The pocket watch featured a graceful figure of eight made by intertwining large seconds counter at 6 o’clock and a smaller one at 12 o’clock for the hours and minutes.

The enchanting design was brought to life again in 2002 and remains Jaquet Droz’s flagship product with countless adaptations. The round case of the watch measures 11.52mm in height and is mounted on a velvety blue rolled-edge alligator leather strap with stainless steel folding clasps.

The silver dial, as the grande seconde model made 235 years ago, features the elegant figure-eight layout and is adorned with vibrant blued hands, applied markers, and a blue date ring for the pointer date. The watch is equipped with an in-house automatic movement, the Jaquet Droz 2660Q2, that provides a power reserve of 68 hours. Get it here.

6. Longines Master Collection Silver Dial 40mm (ref. L2.793.8.78.3)

The Master Collection from Longines features a lineup of extremely complicated and impressively simple mechanical watches produced to the highest possible standard. Longines is the oldest registered watch brand in the world, with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry.

The Swiss Marque is famous for pioneering many legendary creations such as the ‘13.33Z’, which was the first ever Chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch. The Ref. L2.793.8.78.3 perfectly illustrates the exquisite craftsmanship that the brand exercises to meet and exceed the highest standards of precision, durability, and elegance.

The 18-karat pink gold case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.80mm and a lug distance of 21mm. The silver “barleycorn” dial has a blasted finish that gives off a finely-grained texture. It is adorned with vivid blued steel hands that give it depth and character and painted Arabic numerals.

Decorated to Longines’s high standards, the transparent case back with sapphire crystal reveals the classic caliber L888. The self-winding mechanical movement beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

7. Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)

Everyone knows what a Rolex is and what it looks like, and despite being among the highest producers of luxury watches, the brand is firmly positioned among the most successful watchmakers with a class that is impossible to beat.

The Datejust is one of the earliest models from the brand that first debuted in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rolex. The collection entails an amazing catalog of versatile, elegant, and high-quality timepieces that get die-hard enthusiasts and casual watch lovers hot under the collar.

Crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, the Datejust 36 Ref. 126234 comes in a fully polished 36mm case with a mixed-finished Jubilee bracelet. The dress watch is only 12mm thick and has a lug-to-lug distance of 43.3mm, making it even more slender and sleek when worn.

The fluted bezel contains 18k white gold, while the middle case is made from OysterSteel. Ensuring a water resistance rating of 100 meters is the crown, which is fitted with the Twinlock double locking system.

The dial of Ref. 126234-0049 is blue and features the familiar Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock and 18k gold hour markers and hands. It is powered by the in-house caliber 3235, a certified Superlative Chronometer movement that offers a precision of 2/+2 seconds. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours and comes with a five-year guarantee.

8. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 3919)

Patek Philippe has been making exceptional watches since 1839, making it one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world. For almost two centuries, the Swiss watch brand has dedicated its efforts to mastering every aspect of fine watchmaking.

It is one of the last independent watchmakers famous for creating Haute Horology timepieces that meet and exceed the highest standards of elegance, durability, accuracy, and grand style.

The brand is also known to design and produce some of the most complicated mechanical watches in the world, so it doesn’t confine its skills to a single niche. The Calatrava model has been the gold standard of just what an iconic dress watch should be like since its appearance in the early 1930s.

It has remained Patek Philippe’s flagship dress watch for over eight decades, and the Ref. 3919 continues onward in this proud tradition with mesmerizing features. The 18k gold case measures 33mm in diameter and is just 6.5mm thick. The bezel features double layers of mini pyramid accents that add sophistication to the otherwise bland, understated dress watch.

The crisp white lacquer dial is clean, legible, and elegant with black Roman numerals, a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and leaf-style hour and minute hands. It is powered by the Caliber 215 PS movement, which provides approximately 44 hours of power reserve.

9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)

The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a watch that is both eccentric and striking. The patented case from Jaeger-LeCoultre started life as a practical solution for some British officers in India in the early 1930s. These men were distressed by the error of breaking the crystal glass on their watches repeatedly during polo matches.

The Reverso was a functional swiveling case with a rectilinear shape capable of being completely turned over. The invention was a trail-blazing novelty that immediately distinguished Jaeger-LeCoultre from other ubiquitous pocket and pendant watch producers. The Ref. Q713842J pays tribute to the first genuine icon and comes in an 8.51 mm thick case that measures 45.6 x 27.4mm (L x W).

The brand reports that the case is produced and hand-assembled by a specialized team, and the design of the dial is in line with the codes that laid the foundation of the first Reverso.

The opaline dial is straightforward, clean, and elegant with applied faceted hour markers, Dauphine-style hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a rectangular railway minute track on the periphery of the dial in black print. 

The watch is equipped with the Manufacture hand-wound Calibre 822, which delivers a power reserve of 45 hours. It comes with a black Casa Fagliano-designed bi-material strap (leather/canvas).

10. Cartier Tank Française Large (ref. WSTA0067)

Established in 1847, Cartier is a world-renowned jeweler known for producing some of the most exquisite and ultra-high-end timepieces that have graced the wrists of celebrities. The luxury watchmaker is a favorite choice of royalty and celebrities alike, as its watches are often unique, elegant, and enchanting.

The Tank collection, in particular, is one of the famous models from the brand that was designed by Louis Cartier in 1917. Louis drew his inspiration from the Renault Tank FT, which the French forces used in the later stages of World War I. 

The Tank Francaise, which was a bestseller in the 1990s, made a bold comeback recently. The line now features elegant watches with contemporary features but still keeps the look of the armored vehicle it was named after. The shape of the watch is squared still and is presented with an integrated strap held between two straight parallel brancards.

The watch features a 36.5mm x 28.15mm stainless steel case with an octagonal crown in yellow gold at 3 o’clock. The crown is adorned with a blue cabochon, while the silvered flinqué dial is decorated with Roman numerals and a railroad minute track. 

Blued sword-shaped hands add elegance to the face of the watch, while a calendar aperture at 6 o’clock maintains the symmetry of the watch. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

11. IWC Portofino Automatic (ref. IW356501)

IWC (International Watch Co. Schaffhausen) was founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones, a young watchmaker from Boston, in 1868. The brand is known to demonstrate an intuitive understanding of aesthetics coupled with precision and excellence at every stage of its production process. The Portofino Automatic is a signature model remarkable for its distinct timelessness and visually appealing minimalistic dial.

The watch comes in a 40 mm wide round case identical to the Portofino family. The height of the stainless steel case is 9.2 mm, and it is highly polished and refined with straight, thin lugs. The dial is clean and uncluttered yet elegant and very attractive.

The smooth silver-plated dial features a cute date window at 3 o’clock, a peripheral minute track, and applied silver-plated indices with Roman numerals XII and VI for 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively.

Time is indicated by a sleek and beautiful leaf-shaped hour and minute hand. Powering the watch is the automatic, self-winding Calibre 35111. The movement beats at a frequency of 28800 VPH (4 Hz), has 163 Components with 25 Jewels, and provides a power reserve of 42 hours.

12. Zenith Elite Moonphase (ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923)

The Ref. 03.3100.692/03.C923 is an elegant watch inspired by the aesthetic designs of classic watches from the 1950s. The timepiece is presented in a 40.5mm steel case. The ultra-thin in-house manufactured movement with a power reserve of 50 hours under the hood allows the case to have a thickness of just 9.35mm. This feature makes it the perfect dress watch, slim enough to slide in comfortably under your cuff.

The slate grey dial features a very simple seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and moon phase at 6. It is strikingly different due to the stamped sunray pattern on the surface that emanates beautifully from the center all the way to the periphery of the dial. The watch comes fitted with a gray alligator leather strap. 

13. Laine V38 Frosted

Torsti Laine is one of those iconic watchmakers you probably have no idea about but should. After he graduated from the Finnish School of Watchmaking, he worked with A. Lange & Söhne F.A. Lange, and showed such outstanding potential that ultimately earned him the Watchmaking Excellence Award in 2014.

He went on to start manufacturing elegant watches under his eponymous brand. The V38 Frosted comes in a stainless steel case that measures 38mm across and has a thickness of only 9mm. The beautiful case is fully polished and features a domed sapphire crystal on top with an anti-reflective coating. 

The dial is the star of the show and features a guilloche center with a frosted outer portion. An applied steel ring encompasses the inner section and separates it from the frozen area while also bordering a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. There is a minute track on the edge of the dial and applied Breguet-style numerals in white gold on the outer ring.

Visible through the case back is the Vaucher VMF 5401 micro-rotor movement with 160 components and 29 jewels. The visual appeal is very satisfying as even the edges are beveled and polished by hand. The watch is fitted with a natural tan Babele leather and is priced at approximately $10,000.

14. MeisterSinger Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold (ref. LS908G)

Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler and based in Münster, Germany, MeisterSinger is a luxury watch brand renowned for its single-handed watches. All the watches produced by the brand are extremely well made and feature iconic designs that fuse traditional style with present-day creativity.

The Lunascope Sunburst Blue/Gold watch is, in very simple terms, a breathtaking poetic piece bound to enchant the wearer endlessly. The watch comes in a stainless steel case that measures 41mm across with a lug width of 20mm and height of 12mm. The case has a slim bezel that takes the focus to the expansive dial.

The blue dial is a classic MeisterSinger with just one hand simultaneously indicating the hours and minutes. The layout is very familiar; however, there’s an oversized moon phase sitting at the upper half of the watch that looks very realistic. It is romantic, poetic, and beautiful.

There’s a circular date window at 6 o’clock and gold-plated applied hour markers that pair well with the moon (colored in gold), adding a luxurious touch to the watch. The exhibition case back offers a view of the MS Luna automatic movement, which is based on the Swiss Sellita SW220. The rotor offers a power reserve of 38 hours to the Ref. LS908G. You can get it here.

15. Louis Erard Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Founded in 1929, Louis Erard is a relentless fighter in the now sparse ranks of affordable luxury watches. The aim of the independent Swiss watch manufacturer has always been to make the most exclusive craftsmanship accessible.

That said, the Émail Grand Feu II Limited Edition is a luxury watch that comes in a sleek 39mm stainless steel case. The case back is a pane of sapphire crystal which affords a beautiful view of the self-winding movement powering the watch. The self-winding Sellita SW261-1 will run autonomously for up to 38 hours when fully wound and has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz).

The Grand Feu dial is what confers luxury and elegance to the watch because the quality of an enamel dial is always unsurpassable. Due to the complexity of the craft, many watch brands shun the production of such dials, but the results are often satisfying. 

The lustrous appearance of the dial here has an eternal-like depth that is very captivating. It is adorned by vivid blue Roman numerals and triangular batons which denote the hours. The 12 o’clock index is red, providing a much-welcomed liveliness to the dial and matching very well with the red-grained calfskin leather strap on the watch.

Conclusion

Dress watches have evolved significantly since they first appeared in the 20th century. Even though the classic rules for what a dress watch should represent have softened over the years, the quintessential design codes have remained the same. 

That said, dress watches will always be the meeting point of style and etiquette, so don’t hesitate to treat yourself to an exquisite timekeeper!

In a world where there are so many incredible watches out in the wild, it can be challenging to pick out the absolute best ones for the money. Now more than ever, it is important to do a lot of research before making that big purchase and adding another beautiful timepiece to your collection. 

There are plenty of resources out there to understand every detail about your future dream watch, and we’ve created a list of the best watches in the under $10,000 category. Within this budget, an amazing assortment of watches awaits you! 

What to Look for in Watches Under $10,000

When you’re looking for a new watch under $10,000, there are several important things to consider. All of these factors should play a role as you carefully decide on your next timepiece.

Watch Purpose

Of course, the actual purpose of this watch is definitely something to keep in mind. Will it be a versatile piece that can do it all? Or will it have a specific purpose, like for formal situations or diving? 

Some collectors have a watch for every situation, while others have found peace with the perfect one-watch collection. Add pieces to your collection until you feel you’ve covered everything you want your watches to do. 

Brand Reputation

When you purchase a watch, you become a part of that brand’s exclusive club. You can proudly tell others that, yes, you own a Seiko, a Rolex, an Omega, or any other brand. Brand reputation matters for someone looking to fulfill their own personal requirements of what makes a watch brand amazing. The brand also affects how others perceive your watch. 

Build Quality & Finishing

Without a doubt, the build quality and finishing need to be top-notch for every watch that you are considering. Your money should be spent on something you know will last and look marvelous for a long time. At a certain point, superb build quality and finishing are to be expected and not just a nice bonus on a watch.

Movement

The movement is the lifeblood of every watch. Depending on the budget, movements can range from popular, mass-produced ones to high-end, in-house masterpieces. These movements will power the watch and must be carefully taken care of. Regular maintenance and servicing will inevitably be a part of owning a timepiece. The right movement will be both functional and beautiful to behold. 

Value Retention

Value retention, or how well a watch can keep its perceived value, is an important factor to consider for investment-minded people. Some people are thrilled with their timepieces and don’t pay attention to market performance.

However, some enthusiasts greatly care about the perceived market value of their watch. In this case, hot and popular models from established brands may be the best choice for these individuals. 

The Best Watches Under $10000

We’ve broken down the 25 best watches under $10,000 into four distinct categories. This will make it easier to find a watch that suits your specific needs. Without further ado, let’s take a look at some of the pieces available in the fantastic world of watchmaking! 

Everyday Watches

Everyday watches can do it all. They will fit any situation and are perfect for someone who wants a versatile and robust timepiece. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 (ref. 124300)

We start this list off with one of the most recognizable watches out there: a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. An everyday watch is suitable for almost any situation, and a trusty Oyster Perpetual is definitely a good candidate for this category. 

The Oyster Perpetual is purely a time-only watch with no additional complications. However, you are getting access to the Rolex brand, its incredible quality, and its elevated status. This particular reference has a silvery dial with light gold accents and Rolex’s signature Oyster bracelet. 

The caliber 3230 is hidden behind the blank, Oystersteel caseback and is highly accurate and regulated to ensure accuracy up to 2 seconds a day. This modern-sized 41mm Rolex can fit nearly any wrist and can be yours for $8,700. 

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

It’s hard not to be entranced by a Grand Seiko. There’s something truly special about each piece, and you can easily get lost in the beautiful dial. Perhaps it is the extraordinary Zaratsu polishing that creates a sharp mirror finish.

It might also be the incredible value you’re getting with any Grand Seiko, which can easily stand against much more expensive watches. The “Snowflake” is a masterpiece from Grand Seiko and embodies the brand’s dedication to fine Japanese watchmaking. The star of the show is the dial, which resembles freshly fallen snow.

The watch is powered by the famed Spring Drive movement, which makes the blued steel second hand glide around the dial. The movement’s 72-hour power reserve can be tracked via the handy power reserve indicator on the dial. The 41mm titanium “Snowflake” is available for $6,200 through official Grand Seiko dealers. 

Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Black (ref. 542.NX.1171.RX)

Hublot’s everyday watch is a lightweight, titanium piece that comes in various sizes. This model is a very wearable 42mm, making it easily noticeable on the wrist. Any Hublot is bound to be noticed from across the room anyway, and curious onlookers will probably see Hublot’s distinctive porthole-shaped case and signature screws around the bezel. 

The rubber strap is also worth mentioning. It is extremely comfortable and durable, and Hublot has made a name for itself for its quality rubber straps. Beating inside the Classic Fusion is the HUB1110, based on a Sellita SW-300. This self-winding movement has a 42-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. The handsome Classic Fusion can be yours for approximately $8,500. 

Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 115 (ref. 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC)

Oris is constantly innovating its lineup, and the skeletal 44mm Pro Pilot X is the perfect embodiment of this. As one of the few independently owned Swiss brands, Oris can fully control every aspect of its watchmaking. The Pro Pilot X is a stunning watch with a skeletonized dial that exposes every part of the beautiful caliber 115 movement. 

You’ll be able to see every small moving piece working in unison to power this watch’s enormous 10-day power reserve. The power reserve is easily seen with the handy indicator at 3 o’clock. This movement is one of the first in-house movements from Oris, and it is truly a wonder to behold. For $8,000, you’ll be wearing a mechanical marvel on your wrist.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere (ref. MB119286)

The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere pays homage to daring mountain climbers who constantly push themselves to the limit in pursuit of adventure and exploration. One of the main features of the 1858 Geosphere is the innovative new world-time complication developed in-house by Montblanc. 

The two spheres located at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock rotate in opposite directions. These globes display the 24-hour time and indicate whether it is day or night. Another reference to mountain climbing is the seven red dots on the globes. These dots represent the seven highest mountains of each continent in the world. 

This 41.5mm timepiece is crafted with a mix of hard ceramic and stainless steel and is powered by Montblanc’s MB29.25 automatic movement, providing a 42-hour power reserve and high accuracy. This homage to adventure and mountain climbing can be found on Montblanc’s website for $6,300. 

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC’s modern 40mm pilot watch would be a worthy everyday watch due to its legibility, utility, and high quality. Long known for its association with the military and aviation, IWC has taken the traditional pilot watch design and perfected it. The large, sword-style hands are sharply cut and filled with a generous amount of lume. 

Legibility is one of this watch’s greatest strengths. The clearly printed white numerals are large and easy to read, and the dial is lined by a bright minute tracker. This watch can be found on the wrists of career aviators and eager enthusiasts.

Inside this robust timepiece is IWC’s caliber 3211 automatic movement, a precise movement that offers a whopping 120 hours of power reserve. The Mark XX is also outfitted with IWC’s new EasX-CHANGE system, making customizing strap options easy. The Mark XX can be yours for $6,150. 

Chronograph Watches

Chronograph watches are able to measure time like a stopwatch. These highly technical pieces require specially modified movements to create this helpful feature. 

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is a timepiece well-known throughout the watch world and is one of the best chronographs on the market. Omega has indeed found massive success with the Moonwatch’s timeless design and iconic link to space travel. The Moonwatch is a living legend. Some people might call it the only watch you will ever need. 

This version of the Moonwatch stays true to its original design, even using a domed Hesalite crystal. Although more prone to scratches, simple maintenance will leave the crystal looking good as new. The 42mm Moonwatch is outfitted with the OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 3861 movement, and just like the original, it is also hand-wound. You can obtain a piece of history for $6,600.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 (ref. AB0138211B1A1)

The Navitimer is one of the most famous Breitling models. Its large, bold design and distinctive chronograph feature are unmistakable. The watch face looks even larger due to the thin bezel surrounding the 43mm case. This is a watch that certainly isn’t going to be slipping under a dress shirt any time soon. 

The Navitimer dial is filled with numerous features initially designed to help pilots perform necessary flight calculations. It can be difficult for an untrained eye to utilize the Navitimer to its fullest potential, but that shouldn’t stop anyone from having a Navitimer in their collection. 

This new iteration of the Navitimer has a domed sapphire crystal and retains many classic elements of older models that fans are sure to love. The caliber B01 is an in-house Breitling creation and is rigorously tested for accuracy. This iconic watch can be yours for $9,700, which is one of the more expensive watches on the list. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A3817 (ref. 03.A384.400/3817.M3817)

As the name suggests, the highly attractive Chronomaster Revival El Primero is a modern interpretation of the A3817 that was released in 1971. Zenith is credited for releasing the world’s first automatic chronograph movement in 1969, hence the name “El Primero.”

This high-frequency movement beats at 36,000vph and has a respectable 50-hour power reserve. The 37mm dial sits on top of a classic tonneau-shaped case. This case and the ladder-style bracelet are a vintage design that will remain timeless.

There is a lot of visual interest in the dial due to the different colors on the chronograph sub-dials—blue, silver, and black contrast with the white dial and black chapter ring. There is also a tachymeter scale around the bezel. This Chronomaster is a triumphant remake of one of Zenith’s most successful models. This legacy watch is available for $9,000.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Tudor has found remarkable success with the Black Bay collection. Long seen as Rolex’s sister brand, Tudor has made huge strides in creating its own identity. The Black Bay collection is one of the ways that Tudor is making a name for themselves. The Black Bay Chrono is a sporty chronograph watch with Tudor’s signature snowflake-shaped hands.

These blocky hands are also found in numerous other Tudor models. There are multiple color variations for the Black Bay Chrono, including a panda dial or a golden champagne dial. Despite not being a dedicated dive watch, this watch has a respectable 200m of water resistance, indicated by the bright red text on the panda dial. The chronograph buttons are also screw-down and highly watertight.

Inside this amazing chronograph is the COSC-certified caliber MT5813. This movement is a modified variant of an earlier in-house movement created by Breitling in 2009. It has a 70-hour power reserve and is a mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system. Get your very own Black Bay Chrono for a very reasonable $5,450. 

TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P.FC6356)

The Monaco is a watch that is just effortlessly cool. Everything from its unique square design, association with motorsports and famous icons, and iconic status makes this undoubtedly one of the best watches you can purchase for under $10,000. There are numerous color choices available for the Monaco, and this particular model we are showcasing is blue with red accents. 

Like the original Monaco worn by Steve McQueen, the crown is located on the left side. The chronograph pusher buttons are a rounded square shape located on the right side. The chronograph dials at 3 and 9 o’clock positions are also square in shape, matching the case shape. 

The case is 39mm, but the shape of the case definitely makes the watch seem more significant than it is. The strap has an asphalt finish, another reference to motorsports. Inside the Moncao is Tag Huer’s caliber 11 movement, an automatic chronograph movement that has a standard power reserve of 40 hours. This amazing piece of racing history is available for $7,800.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chrono (ref. 168589-3002)

The Mille Miglia takes its inspiration from the Italian motorsport race of the same name. Chopard is heavily involved in the racing scene, being the official timekeeper of numerous races around the world. This Mille Miglia Chronograph is sure to delight both racing fans and watch enthusiasts.

The dial is large, and the exact seconds and minutes can easily be tracked with clear indicators around the dial. There is also a tachymeter, which can measure speed over distance. This makes calculations for neck and neck races easier to calculate.

The strap resembles the tires of motorsport vehicles, with a distinctive grooved, rubber pattern. The 42mm Mille Miglia is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement from Chopard, which is a certified chronometer. This jewel of racing is available for $6,650. 

Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph (ref. L3.821.4.53.6)

Any watch stamped with Longines’ famous winged hourglass logo is definitely going to be a stunning watch. Longines’ Spirit collection is relatively new and has proven to be a hit with watch fans. The amazing, high-quality timepieces in this collection are a mix of heritage and modern, with sleek designs that resonate with their audience. 

The case is extremely well-constructed and features a ceramic bi-directional bezel. This large, 42mm watch sits comfortably on the wrist. The bracelet gently tapers and bends around the wrist effortlessly. On the dial, the hands and markers are a slight, pale gold, and there are notably five stars at the bottom of the dial. 

These stars are a sign of a highly accurate movement, the caliber L791.4. This COSC-certified chronometer has a column wheel and flyback function with a sizable 68-hour power reserve. This Spirit chronograph is available for $4,550.

Dive Watches

Dive watches are extremely popular and are able to survive nearly any challenge that it comes across. Some of the most defining features of timepieces in this category are high water resistance and increased durability. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5100-1140-O52A)

The Fifty Fathoms collection is a testament to Blancpain’s long association with diving and underwater exploration. After all, this brand was one of the first to introduce a modern diving watch. This model’s very name, Bathyscaphe, takes inspiration from the deep sea diving vessel used for underwater exploration. 

Indeed, the 300m of water resistance is more than enough for almost any professional or casual diver. The dial is simple and legible, with a timeless design that has helped divers for decades. The blocky hands and markers are filled with a generous amount of lume to make telling the time even easier. The case construction is also exceptional. It is made of satin-brushed steel and the edges are smooth and expertly finished. 

Inside the modest 38mm case is caliber 1150, a masterpiece from Blancpain. This movement is relatively thin, comprises 210 tiny parts, and has a 100-hour power reserve. This watch is available for $10,100, which is slightly above our limit. However, that extra $100 goes towards a historic brand that garners huge respect. 

Panerai Submersible (ref. PAM02973)

The Panerai Submersible looks like a heavy submarine ready for battle. Everything from the large 42mm size and bulky case design to the elaborate crown guard shows that this watch means business. True to its name, the watch features 300m of water resistance and can survive any underwater excursion.

This model has a strong wrist presence and will not be found under any dress sleeve. The weight of the stainless steel case is cut down by using a comfortable rubber strap that bends to fit any wrist shape. One of the most exciting features of the watch is the brushed bezel.

The markings are etched into the steel and have a very utilitarian look. The dial is a rich black color with white and blue accents. Hidden behind the solid caseback is the caliber P.900 automatic movement, which has a large 72-hour power reserve and is equipped with anti-shock capabilities. The Submersible is available for $9,500. 

Seiko Prospex LX SNR029

Seiko has a watch for everyone at any price bracket. The SNR029 is part of the vast Seiko Prospex collection, one of Seiko’s most famous lines. These dive watches are engineered to be the best in their class for professional and serious divers.

The SNR029 is one of the most advanced Prospex watches because of the high-quality materials and Seiko’s famous Spring Drive movement. The case is constructed out of titanium treated with an extra coating to make it super durable. The Spring Drive movement is normally found in most Grand Seiko luxury watches; however, it makes an appearance here as well.

The caliber 5R65 Spring Drive movement has a large 72-hour power reserve and is a unique blend of mechanical and electrical parts. To help with diving, there is a large screw-down crown, a unidirectional bezel, and an extra secure clasp on the bracelet. This highly technical dive watch is available for $6,000. 

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

The SeaQ is a luxurious dive watch with a distinctive arrow-shaped second hand. It is based on a vintage design from 1969. This 39.5mm dive watch is perfect for anyone looking for something unique in their collection. The highly satisfying and responsive unidirectional rotating bezel makes setting the dive time easy. The large numerals around the dial and the bezel are filled with Super-Luminova lume.

The hands and numerals are a light patina color, which provides a lot of warm visual interest. The stainless steel case has been finished with refined vertical brush finishing. Underneath the caseback, which has a deep engraving of a trident, is the caliber 39-11. This highly detailed movement with a custom rotor and fine finishing has a 40-hour power reserve. The SeaQ is available for $9,900.

Bremont Supermarine S502 Jet

Bremont is an exciting British watch brand that proudly provides exceptional timepieces for military professionals. The 43mm Supermarine is a tactical all-black watch with a handy true GMT feature. GMT watches are extremely useful because they can track another timezone. 

The Supermarine’s yellow GMT hand stands out from the scratch-resistant black dial, case, and rubber strap. This yellow GMT hand will also be highly legible under the water. This watch’s remarkable 500m of water resistance is achieved through the helium escape valve, screw-in caseback, expert construction, and increased antishock capabilities. 

The Bremont caliber BE-93-2AE automatic chronometer is a modified ETA2892, a true workhorse movement with 42 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. The Supermarine is available for approximately $4,000. 

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte (ref. BR0392-D-BL-CE/SRB)

One look at this intense watch is enough to see the clear military inspiration behind it. Bell & Ross is one of the few luxury French brands with a strong military association and creates highly technical, durable timepieces for professionals.

This dive watch looks almost bulletproof, thanks to the sleek, matte black dial, rubber strap, and ceramic case design. The ceramic material is highly scratch-resistant and quite comfortable. The case shape is similar to other Bell & Ross watches and fits quite well for a 42mm watch.

Underneath the highly eligible matte black dial is the BR-CAL.302 automatic movement, which is based on the Sellita SW300. It offers a reasonable 38-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800vph. This rugged watch can be yours for a reasonable $4,600. 

Dress Watches

Dress watches are normally reserved for formal occasions and are elegant, understated timepieces that can easily fit under any dress sleeve.

Cartier Santos Medium (ref. WSSA0029)

Most Cartier Santos models are extremely similar to each other and have used the same winning design for years and years now. This medium-sized version of the classic Santos has all the features you would expect to see on this flagship model from Cartier.

The blued hands, a blue jewel on the crown, and branding on the 7 o’clock Roman numeral are all there. One of the newest innovations to this classic design is the new “QuickSwitch” system. This makes switching between the metal bracelet and included calfskin strap extremely easy.

Another innovation is the “SmartLink” adjustment system, which lets wearers adjust the bracelet to fit them perfectly without any tools necessary. These fantastic additions to the Santos make the timepiece a blend of modern and traditional. The Santos Medium is available for $7,050.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds (ref. Q3858522)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is considered a dress watch by many. However, the model was originally designed to be a sports watch, able to survive a hard-fought polo match. One of the watch’s main features is the ability to flip the entire watch face around to protect the dial from outside damage.

This curious, rectangular watch is relatively thin but highly durable. It looks incredible on nearly any wrist and is packed with fine details, including the finely textured center dial and blued hands. The comfortable, smooth leather strap is from the unique Fagliano Collection, resulting from a collaboration between Jaeger-LeCoultre and artisan leather makers Casa Fagliano.

The Reverso’s caliber 822 movement has been perfectly molded to fit the rectangular case and is proudly stamped with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s statement that the watch has been adjusted to five positions. This classic watch is available for $10,600.    

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Every Grand Seiko comes with a story. For the SBGY007, that story begins with winter snow over Lake Suwa. Grand Seiko loves to craft romantic, imaginative imagery for many of their watches. The Elegance collection is a series of elegant and clean dress watches. The main attraction of this watch is, of course, the ethereal, icy white dial that looks like snow falling on blue waters. 

The dial is symmetrical and simple, highlighting the dial and blued seconds hand. The 38.5mm case features Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing, a technique that creates a mirror finish on each surface. Of course, Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement is also inside this watch, creating a buttery smooth seconds hand that glides around the dial. The Elegance is available for $8,300.

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.02.001)

The Globemaster is a masterful feat of engineering from Omega. As part of the Constellation series, the Globemaster is a beautiful dress watch with some serious horology backing it up. Omega proudly proclaims the Globemaster as the world’s first Master Chronometer.

This means that the timepiece has been certified by two powerful organizations in the watchmaking world: COSC and METAS. Essentially, it means the Globemaster is a certified masterpiece made with the absolute highest quality. The dial is clean and symmetrical, with a star at the 6 o’clock position.

The star is another reference to the Constellation series, Omega’s dreamy lineup of dress watches. Behind the sapphire glass caseback is a medallion of the famous observatory seen in many Constellation watches. Powering the Globemaster is the caliber 8900, a self-winding movement with a co-axial escapement with anti-magnetic properties. For $7,100, you’ll have a dress watch that demands respect. 

Laine V38 Frosted

Laine is an independent Swiss watch brand that creates handcrafted masterpieces in their workshop in Le Locle, Switzerland. In a list filled with recognizable names like Rolex and Omega, Laine stands out from all the rest with breathtaking movements and impeccable attention to detail. 

The Frosted model is available in a few different finishes, one with a “Moondust” granular finish or a slightly more expensive option with a meteorite or center guilloche. No matter your choice, you are getting a dress watch that will turn heads. The 38mm watch has a symmetrical dial, with the main point of interest being the two circles in the middle of the dial.

The “Moondust” option is particularly stunning and really stays true to the Frosted name. Flipping the watch to its back reveals the gorgeous Vaucher 5401 movement. It is filled with tiny, precise details. The rotor is hand-engraved with a custom design, and the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes. One of these highly coveted pieces can be yours for approximately $10,000.

Glashütte Original Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65

The final watch on this list is Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence. This perfectly sized 40mm dress watch is clean, symmetrical, and sophisticated. The stainless steel case is polished and satin-finished provides depth and interest to this dressy timepiece.

On the second hand is the brand’s double G logo. This logo is also found on the fluted crown. The dial is a cleanly finished matte black color with Arabic numerals that are filled with generous amounts of lume. 

Behind the sapphire glass caseback is the caliber 36-01, one of the most impressive movements that Glashütte Original produces. It has a substantial 100-hour power reserve and is finely decorated. The double G logo is found on the skeletonized rotor, and the oscillation weight is made of 21-carat gold. The Senator Excellence is available for approximately $9,000. 

Conclusion 

A list of the absolute best watches under $10,000 is a challenging task, but we have assembled some of the best timepieces on the market for you today. Any one of these superb pieces would be an incredible addition to your wardrobe.

Whether you’re looking for a watch with a specific purpose, or a watch that can do it all, there’s something on here that will definitely catch your eye. The hunt for a new timepiece is so exciting, and your next watch might be here! 

Cartier, a brand that needs no introduction, was founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier and quickly became a favorite among royalty and the wealthy elite. Over the years, Cartier has crafted absolute masterpieces – definitions of style and panache – adorned with gems, precious metals, and intricate designs.

Cartier’s signature style is unmistakable; elegant lines, clean designs, and iconic shapes. The brand’s most well-known watches, the Tank and the Santos are certified classics and are beloved among celebrities, royals, and aristocrats the world over. It’s a simple truth that one can’t think of a quadrilateral wristwatch without confronting the image of a Cartier.

In this ultimate guide, we’ll explore the history of Cartier, from its modest Parisian start to its modern-day stylistic dominance, delving into the intricacies of some of the brand’s vintage timepieces. Whether you are a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey into the world of vintage watches, this guide will provide you with everything you need to know.

From Pilots to Princesses – The Endless Allure of Cartier

Cartier watches have been worn by some of the most influential figures of the past century, from aviators to royalty. Cartier can make the stunning (and surprising) claim of having produced the first-ever dedicated pilot’s watch (more on that shortly) as well as having supplied multiple royals with suitably elegant timepieces. 

Princess Diana was a notable wearer of Cartier watches, whose enduring admiration for the humble Cartier Tank was a well-known aspect of her style. Another fan of the simple Tank, John F. Kennedy, could often be seen wearing his. Likewise, Madonna’s Panthere and Cristiano Ronaldo’s Santos are undoubtedly watches that speak to and for the character of their owners – uniquely stylistic pieces that combine classic design elements with modern innovation, resulting in an effortlessly enduring product. 

The only Cartier is, quite clearly, Cartier. Nothing else even comes close, and that’s why so many people have chosen the brand’s watches as their daily accompaniment for over a century.

A History of Cartier – The Tradition of Style

Cartier is one of the most respected and recognizable luxury brands in the world of watches, but it hasn’t always been so. Established in Paris in 1847, Cartier made its start as a bespoke jeweler under its founder, Louis-Francois Cartier, before eventually expanding into the world of high-end timepieces and, indeed, taking that world by storm thanks to the efforts of Louis’s enterprising grandchildren.

One of Cartier’s earliest and most famous watch designs is the Santos de Cartier, created in 1904 for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This innovative watch was designed to be worn while flying, with a leather strap that was more comfortable than the metal bracelets of the time. 

The Santos also featured a square case, which was a bold departure from the ubiquitous round cases of the early 20th century. This four-sided design ethos would carry forward to the present day as a signature element of Cartier’s most highly renowned watches. 

Shortly after creating the Santos wristwatch, Cartier signed an agreement with Edmond Jaeger (yes, that Jaeger) to supply all of the company’s movements exclusively. So began Cartier’s pursuit of commercial horological success, and in the 1920s, the company introduced another profoundly iconic watch. 

The Cartier Tank was inspired by a birds-eye perspective of the design of tanks in World War I and featured a clean, simple rectangular case that quickly became a symbol of sophistication, minimalism, and style. Over the years, the Tank has been updated and refined, but it remains one of the world’s most identifiable and enduring watch designs and a signature part of the Cartier catalog.

Cartier’s success was propelled almost exclusively by the Tank for years until the 1930s when the brand began considering different styles and designs inspired by the one-off creation of the first ‘Pasha’, a timepiece made for the Pasha of Marrakesh. Known for its oversized case, screw-down crown, and distinctive Arabic numerals, the Pasha became a symbol of luxury and sophistication upon its public release decades later, adding a dimension of boldness and unabashed charm to Cartier’s visual identity.

In the 1980s, Cartier introduced the ‘Panthere’ watch, a distinctly-80s women’s timepiece designed to capture the spirit of the brand’s iconic panther motif. The watch featured a square case with a diamond-set bezel and a flexible bracelet representing a panther’s agility and grace. The Panthere watch was a hit among discerning ladies and remains a pleasantly obscure favorite to this day.

Cartier has continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watch design in recent years, exploring new materials such as carbon fiber with great fanfare. However, the attraction of the brand’s flagship designs is still the driving force behind Cartier and certainly represents the ideal version of Cartier’s watches, hence why we’re focussing on the company’s vintage offerings here.

Notable Vintage Cartier Watches

Cartier Santos

Since its public release in 1911, seven years after Louis Cartier created the first model for his friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos line has become a key part of Cartier’s catalog and may well be the brand’s most popular watch among men. 

Traditionally masculine features such as a square face and a prominent bezel are key attributes of the Santos. But, of course, Cartier has done things their way, rounding the edges of the case and creating a frame-like bezel with exposed screws. These subtle changes place the Santos in a singular realm of design; strong yet soft, conclusive yet fluid.

The most notable version of the Santos is the Cartier Santos Dumont, the longest-running iteration of the design and, thus, the closest to the original watch. These can be found with both quartz and automatic movements in steel, gold, and two-tone finishes. As with all the Santos variations, the Dumont looks best on a bracelet. Trust me.

Another strong contender for the most attractive vintage Santos is the Santos Galbee, which was released in the 1980s. Cartier’s response to the quartz crisis, the Galbee (which means ‘curved’ in French), is a touch more bowed than previous models, hugging the wrist with its slightly arching profile. For this reason, the Galbee is generally considered the most comfortable Santos, a claim I wholeheartedly agree with!

Cartier Tank

The Tank is quite obviously the most iconic member of the Cartier watch family. Its simple design and universal wearability make it a celebrated timepiece – a rectangular-shaped case, and gently rounded form have become definitive elements of horological culture since the Tank’s creation in 1917. 

The brancard case sides are not only frames for the dial but lugs as well, and it is this transition from frame to lug that defines the minimal personality of the Tank. Like most Cartier watches, the Tank is traditionally adorned with Roman numerals, so expect to see a lot of Xs and Vs during your search for the right one.

The Tank Louis Cartier was the second generation of this classic timepiece (the first being the Tank Normale) and, thus, remains a highly sought-after and respected watch that certainly has a place in every collection. 

The Must De Cartier Tank was introduced in the ‘70s as a more affordable entry into the brand, with either an ETA or quartz movement and a reductively plain face. Although the Tank Must can be found with a variety of dial designs, the single-colored variations are the most definitive of this model and, if you ask me, the most beautiful.

Finally, the Asymetrique is perhaps the most daring version of the Tank, having turned heads with its slanted appearance since 1936. The Asymetrique is certainly an acquired taste, given its off-center design, but this watch is an absolute icon in the world of fashion and haute horology.

Ronde De Cartier

What makes the Ronde De Cartier range different from most Cartier watches is obvious – these timepieces are round. The fact that, like most watches, the design of the Ronde case is circular doesn’t detract at all from the stark Cartier-ness of these tickers. 

The Cartier Ronde Must, a highly affordable steel design that’s available with either a quartz or automatic heart, is Cartier’s most approachable watch. Fret not – the dial, blue hands, and blue stone crown all define this watch as a Cartier, even if it doesn’t have four sides.

As with the Tank collection, there is a Ronde Louis Cartier, which represents a higher-end version of the Ronde Must, with an automatic movement, rose gold case, and blue sapphire crown. Like the Ronde Must, the Louis Cartier is available in altogether approachable sizes, with the most common being the 36mm.

Panthere

First seen in a watercolor painting made for Louis Cartier in 1914 (which would go on to become Cartier’s main symbol), Cartier’s favorite cat would eventually (inevitably, some would say) lend its name to the brand’s seminal unisex release. Studded with diamonds and produced in smaller sizes, the Panthere line was unveiled in 1983 and represents the merging of Cartier’s jewelry and horological pursuits. 

Reminiscent of a smaller, more feminine Santos Dumont, the Panthere line is defined by a riveted, square bezel, Roman numerals, a faceted octagonal crown, and a five-piece link bracelet.

From its introduction, the Panthere was made available in 5 sizes, mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo. Note that although jumbo brings to mind images of building-sized trucks and human head-sized burgers, the Panthere Jumbo maxes out at a dainty 31mm. Hardly the wrist-eating watch that its size descriptor alludes to.

Although they’re available in steel and all-gold, it’s the two-tone Panthere that has caught the eyes and hearts of most Cartier enthusiasts, and I certainly think that the dual-metal finish is the most attractive. If you’re particularly interested in the Panthere and have some scratch to spend, look out for the coveted Moonphase model in 18k white gold – it’s one of the most gorgeous watches you’ll ever see.

Should You Buy a Vintage Cartier?

I know – it’s hard not to be captivated by the idea of a Cartier on the wrist of a cooler, classier version of you. But before you take the plunge and make a brash, costly purchase, it’s important to weigh the pros and cons of buying a vintage watch.

On the one hand, vintage Cartiers are a testament to the brand’s history and heritage, given that they exhibit a unique charm that simply can’t be replicated by modern timepieces. They also often feature vintage movements made by some of the most talented watchmakers of the time, rendering them tangible vestiges of Cartier’s illustrious past.

However, these timepieces also come with their fair share of demerits. Being vintage means that whatever you’re buying will have been through years of wear (and tear), and it can be difficult to determine the true condition of an item without the help of an expert.

Additionally, many vintage Cartier watches will have been subtly modified or repaired by unauthorized hands over the years, which can greatly impact their value and authenticity. Ultimately, whether or not you should buy a vintage Cartier depends on your individual preferences and risk tolerance.

If you’re willing to take the time to research and verify the authenticity and condition of a vintage Cartier (which you should definitely do), it can be one of the most rewarding purchases you’ll ever make. However, if you’re not comfortable with the potential risks and uncertainties, it may be better to opt for a modern timepiece instead.

‘Old’ is the New ‘New’

Just as we know the sun rises in the morning, so too do we accept that no collection can be truly complete without a Cartier. With their timeless elegance and rich history, vintage Cartiers offer a uniquely storied glimpse into the world of luxury watchmaking. 

Although purchasing one requires careful consideration and research to ensure its authenticity and value, it’s a quest worth embarking on if you’re after an incomparable timepiece. After all, a Cartier never goes out of style.